Good day /o/Should I turbo my minty 1995 NA Miata? Low miles.I've had it for about a decade but am growing a bit bored of it.Will I lose a lot of reliability?Is like 2-3k enough to do this? I just want to find a reason to be excited about wrenching on cars again. I dunno.
>pros:best thing ever when it workseven just 200whp is insane in a ~2200 pound car>cons:inherently less reliablecan be mitigated with money (nice parts instead of ebay trash) and modest tunebut i've never seen any non factory turbo car work as good as stocksuspension and tires will probably need to be upgraded next regarding cost, if you piece everything together used, 2-3k sounds reasonable. get used good stuff instead of new trash tho. but you probably shouldn't if your car is nice and stock. maybe freshen up your suspension and anything else rubber on the carbut dont let me tell you what to do, it's still fun as fuckfor a 1.8 you probably want something like thisgt2560r (very common choice, dont get an ebay turbo) 2.5-3 inch exhaust (if you don't get a brand new kit this is the hard part)megasquirt ecu (most common)wideband o2 of courselots of elbows and piping for the cold side of the turbo (this is also gonna be aids) or molded rubber hosesany idiot can slap a turbo on a car but it takes some skill to be done well and not blow anything up if you don't buy a kit where every variable is accounted for. picrel is what an off the shelf product looks like
>2-3kno. not if you want it to be decently reliable.Buy a kit from kraken or flying miata.and you're still going to have to deal with heat issues, I imagine. But if you're not tracking it and just want to floor it sometimes, it's probably fine. I think any tracked turbo setup is too much of a shit show to deal with since every little thing breaks or bolts backout or other bullshit.
Nothing about the Miata can handle 200hp stock. It's floppy as shit stock, there is a reason it needs a fucking firewall reinforcement to make braking more linear and a reason everyone reinforces the chassis or at least gets sway bars.Basically, as everyone said, you can do low boost if you are willing to smoke the engine and you won't ever treat it as a "race car".If you want to push it, it needs reinforcement and a full suspension set up and updates to all the brakes. Even if "stock internals can handle it", your stock internals are literally 25 years old, and they can't. Oh, clutch too, etc.You can think of the NA as you do of an AE86, it's NOT a good car stock, it's just light and has the right layout. That's it.
>>28910324>Nothing about the Miata can handle 200hp stocki stopped reading there, you're retardedthe motor was designed for boost from the beginningrods get a little sketchy around 250hp but nah, a well tuned 220 and you'll be fine1.6 diff is a little sketchyyou'll need a higher rated clutch but that's really the only necessity
>>28910324Wrenchlet take
>>28910400Should have maybe read the part where I said:> Even if "stock internals can handle it", your stock internals are literally 25 years old, and they can't. Oh, clutch too, etc.Didn't even think about the diff. Iirc it wasn't even an LSD on mine.>>28910401I had a $3000 NA for about 3 years and drove it an hour to work @ 80-90 on a loop bypass to avoid traffic and because that's the speed traffic went. I wrenched. That's actually the biggest appeal of the miata, you can ACTUALLY do the clutch in half a day. But I hate when people misrepresent that shit. Light, easy, cheap to work on, but let's not pretend it will do 200hp without being a deathtrap if you just put a Kraftwerks on.
Don't, keep it somewhat stock.
>>28910276Please don't nigger another miata
>>28910276Boosted miatas are fun.Picrel has about 250 WHP running on a GT2560R.Things to take into consideration.>5 Speed or 6 Speed box?If 5 speed, don't go over 200ftlb Engine Torque, the boxes aren't that strong and third gear will shit itself. The 6 box is a lot stronger and can handle over 300ft/lb with the circlip mod. Clutch is mandatory on either application.>Torsen diff or open/VLSD diff?If you don't have a Torsen diff, get one. All the other diffs are glass. If you have a 1.6 engine this is a must >CoolingYou need a coolant reroute on the NA, you'll also want to upgrade your radiator while you're at it.>ECUAvoid ME221/ME442 ECUs. Go with either BMM, MaxxECU or Megasquirt. BMM and Maxx are allegedly better, but I run a MS3 myself and it's given me zero issues in the last two years>ignition Do a COP Conversion while you're at it. VAG Redtops are perfect for Miatas.Get a Turbo kit from Kraken, he knows his shit. If you leave your motor unopened (recommended) get the proven 2560R or GBC20-300. EFR Turbos from BorgWarner, while better are overkill.
