I've using the the same lab for the past 4 rolls and for some reason, the skins of the people that I shot came out looking so "reddish". While I understand that we're brown but we don't look this red irl.top left - Kodak Ultramax 400bottom left - Fuji 200top right - Fuji Color 200 (different lab)bottom right - Vision3 250Dall of 3 use Noritsu HS-1800so the question is, what's the "problem here?is it because of the film stocks?is it the machine?is it the present the machine use? (idk how the process actually works)is it the chemical?and what should I do from now on? change the lab and the machine? or should I ask them to scan the negative back to me as well so I can add the colors myself (I have no idea how lightroom works but I assume I can download presets for each filmstocks to add the colors right?)THOUGHT?????????
>>4457684Just edit the file? Those old "professional" scanners are weird as shit. I recommend scanning at home with a digital camera, you get full control of the colors
>>4457687>I recommend scanning at home with a digital camerado people actually do this? also I don't have digital camera and I'm not at that state that I'd want to develop my own film yet.>Just edit the file?Of course I can do that, but I want to know what causes the problem or is it just a film characteristic that I have to cope with.
>>4457689Well, its the film + scanner combo. Scans from different labs look very different for this reason. All those machines were built like 20 years ago. An 18mp dslr and a macro lens will do you for 35mm film
>spend $20/roll for film+dev>pay somebody else molest them with the noritsu sliderscuck behavior
You need a full frame sony for the best quality
>>4457822no sar, olympiss poorturds bbysensor fullsize body OM SYSTEM OM-D D-OM E-1-D-EMIV for best quality pls sar
