What are your setups? Which products can you recommend? And wtf are the bastards from negative supply snorting to justify their pricing?speaking of: Does anyone have the STLs from tonecarrier? I am a poor bastard and want to try them out. other than that, I had no luck with the free printables you find on thingyverse etc.
Unless you already have a 24MP or higher camera and a good macro lens, you are wasting your money for inferior results. Buy an old SCSI scanner with digital ICE and you'll get much better color quality and dinamic range, and then use negative lab pro or grain2pixel to invert them
>>4464842Yeah I already have a quite decent digital mirrorless + macro that would do the trick, and an old and heavy as fuck kaiser stand with lightscreen from grandpa.
>>4464843Then your best options are either the Valoi ones or the nikon adapters for film scanning
Bump in the hope that anyone was those STLs
>>4464841basically:Etone backlight and film carriers T254A8 tripod from K&FConcept SMC takumar macro 50mm f4OM-5Cheap setup but works well enough for me, at least up to 6x6, results for 6x9 are a bit eeeh, but I think that is more my 6x9 folder.
>>4464841I use an DSLR with some bamboo scanning light thing, with some jigs for 35 and 120 film. The lens im using is a 150mm macro, then I just connect the camera up to my pc so I can make sure the exposures and focus is exactly correct. I also have a m43 with 50mp pixel shift that I kinda wanna try with it too, but I feel like you get really good microdetail on full frame.
>>4465020Thats bretty good man. the full pic has enough to print probably
>>4465041Yeah i'd say so, i flipped it with nlp. compared to the setup I was using earlier it cut down on the vignette massively.
this is my setup but nikon 60mm micro adapted instead of gf lens
>>4465079Since you've got it right next to your PC, you should try just plugging it straight in there. You can check the focus on a march larger screen and check your inverter workflow to make sure your exposures are getting the most detail. Personally I was trying to do ETTR with mine and I found that that cameras metering were actually a lot better.
This is my setup for scanning slides. The backlight uses the RGB trick, it's an LED strip which I cut up and arranged in a matrix, then used a diffuser film from an old LCD monitor and a bit of acrylic.Since it's single slides, I just decapsulate the film and this little magnet clamp/holder thingy I printed in PLA holds the edges flat which works well enough.The camera bracket is PETG and braces the lens which means I don't have to faff around with yaw adjustment.I used a Pi to control a little bluetooth remote. The Sony has a built in FTP upload which is super useful.Everything else is aliexpress tat, but it's all straight enough to not be a concern.Since I don't actually shoot film and this was just for archiving family stuff, it's all kind of disposable
>>4465223Uh, I got rotated it seems
Then this is my ridiculous machine based on a 3D printer board that blows through whole carts of slides at a time. Same lens/camera/backlight as before though. For this one, it's a Pi again, but I used tethering instead as there's a webcam in there for capturing the front of the slides at the same time for automated labelling. libgphoto worked but was a bit flaky (once it started working, everything was fine as long as I didn't touch any menus in the camera)I forgot to mention the lens: Sony 50mm macro. It's a really good macro lens, but it's not a great prime because the electronic focus is so slow
And finally, this stupid lil' guy. I think an apt name would be film destroyer 9000. I need to return to this as I do have a lot of negatives to scan. It's more of a prototype of what became the slide scanner.Important things to learn from this: - Horizontal mounting of the camera is bad because even if your mount is very firm, it seems like the internal lens elements have a bit of sag or something that causes pitch to be an issue. This wasn't as much of a problem for the slide scanner as that was all done at a much smaller aperture. - The backlight is basically the same except I used WS2811 addressable LED strip, it turns out these chips start behaving oddly when they warm up which meant calibrating the channels was a huge PITA. - I used a Pi to control the stepper. This was what caused any damage to the film as the software-controlled stepping was too rough. - Adjusting the focus by screw rail is much easer than using the lens ring.
>>4465223Nigga I didn't understand a single word of this. Are the photos any good?
