Are CCD bridge cameras the best way to hop into the CCD trend? I don't want to have to get APS-C lenses for a CCD SLR and digital point and shoot seem terrible. Anyone have experience or their own shots to post? TIA
>>4489485Just get a CCD APSC DSLR. Even a <$100 Olympus 4/3 like E300/E500 will give you better image quality. Those old bridge cameras have at best 2/3" sensors and on top of the poor low light capabilities of a CCD make image quality shitty. And that's if you get a good one, its 20-25 year old electronics that at this point are prone to CCD failure, bad autofocus, etc. Pentax K10D and istD, Konica Minolta 5D, Sony a300/350/380/390 all go for next to nothing and the lenses are cheap too. If you made this thread yesterday I would've linked a $40 KM5D that sold on eBay already. If your fear is going down the lens rabbithole or creeping on your current purchases either get something that lets you run those lenses on a modern mirrorless (Sony LAEA4/LAEA5 A Lens to E Mount) or do a Kodak CCD 4/3rds like the Oly E300/E500 (rare lenses + $$$ + they suck at low light anyways)
>>4489485I forgot to add: Nikon D200 is a good option if you shoot Nikon. All the FF lenses work fine on the APSC CCDs...I took >>4489353 yesterday, they're fun to use. But yeah I wouldn't recommend a bridge camera unless you got one really cheap like <$40 and already had lenses + batteries that worked. That particular one (Dimage 7) iirc is a 1/2" sensor, the Dimage A1/A2 had a 2/3" sensor but uses rechargables from the K10D/KM5D DSLRs. Avoid the A200 since those have a battery that's more difficult to getPersonally of all the CCDs A-Mount is my favorite. The lenses are dirt cheap and the cameras get really nice images. I have a KM 5D, A390, and A58 (not CCD but CMOS) that I love equally. My Pentax K200D I want to get rid of (think the sensor is just gone...its "brown" hued) but I just bought 2 K10Ds for $30 each off buyee to mess with. A-Mount lenses are cheap enough you might find yourself collecting them. Honorable mention if you want a camera that isn't a CCD but gives the feel/colors...Canon 5D Classic/Mark II.
>>4489485CCD is good if you want motionblur or such no need to glorify image qualityD200 ISO1600
>>4489488Yeah or the pentax ones like the k10d
>>4490193>motionblur>actually missed focusWhat did he mean by this
>>4490232>what is diffractionlooks like you are the stupid one.
>>4489485>casual poser here, what is the easiest way for me to into trend?
>>4490250>random photog buzzword defenceYou larping idiot, the placemat in the very front of the foreground is in perfect focus, and the apple isn't."Diffraction", like you even know what that means lmao.
raw -> jpeg otherwise no edits than a cropolympus e500 + 50mm f/2 macrolike i said earlier op pick up a 4/3rds like a e300/e500 or e400 (europe) if you dont wanna buy a bunch of lenses. the lenses are rare and expensive for 4/3rds and you'll be <$100 in most cases.just be warned they really aren't good past iso 400, this was at iso 250 f2.0 1/500. the apsc ccds are good until 800 iso from the bigger sensor size. otherwise 6-10mp is enough for social media/4ch anywaysits a fun camera to use...even if it has 3 autofocus points and really needs light
>>4490260i did notice just now the pics tend to take a bit of a blue tint if i use awb, setting the wb to auto in lightroom helps more (this was edited more from raw but it doesn't look too far off from the jpeg honestly)wonder if it would hurt using a 1b skylight filter i have a bunch of those
>>4489488this,I got an ISTD and just share my Tamron lens with my K50 lmao
https://www.ebay.com/itm/167986935957might be fine just the battery/cf card is shothttps://www.ebay.com/itm/205927550133"inop" because they dont want returns?https://www.ebay.com/itm/317613350124if youre canadian worth consideringi took this with my 5d :)
>>4490920wow looks as good as nikon z6 photo.well done
>>4489485Ignore "CCD Trend". It is about CFA filers not cmos vs ccd. Get 5D Classic in good shape and enjoy good quality from cheap FF lenses.
>>4493217Its not about either. Its about firmware. Sensors are monochrome. CFAs only really matter under artificial and naturally tinted light (this is what causes snoy colors)
