I absolutely hate setting up and using a digital scan rig... it takes an obnoxious amount of setup time and space: >is the backlight on/charged>is the macro lens focused>is the tripod + riser putting the camera level + the right distance to the film>is the mirrorless camera charged + ready to goThinking of 3D printing a DupliHood or something but not sure how much better that really makes it. This is all feeling like a very autistic waste of time. Even most labs, if you pay for "high-quality scans" they're still super doctored / not close to raw. I'm not going to pay 1 million dollars to buy a ticking time bomb dinosaur like a Coolscan 9000. I would instantly preorder a Knokke if it did 120. Does anyone have any recommendations
>>4502801Just get a flatbed scanner. They kinda suck for 120/35mm, but you can get them to work well with a bit of calibration and all that.
>>4502801These are all such non-issues holy hell.>thinks flicking an on switch is difficult>doesn't have a charging station for their gizmos>focusing a completely stationary camera at a completely stationary object is hard somehow>obviously I need to HOMELAB a solution to these pressing concerns
>>4502801Isn't the setup usually just a one time thing and you can just scan all your frames?
>>4502861>focusing a completely stationary camera at a completely stationary object is hard somehowHow much do you do this? Every time you even slightly bump any part of the setup it mangles focus. Getting the camera on the same plane as the film is especially sensitive. >>4502865It's not really a one-time setup since you have to recalibrate it every time you use it which involves adjusting all or most of the fixtures.Leaving it up also takes up a lot of desk space
>>4502878I use my normal tripod and a free-floating backlight pane. I just have sufficent space on my table that I'm not tripping over everything.It takes me a whopping 90 seconds to fetch the gear out from their storage and set them in place. I've marked the points on my tripod I've found best to use with faint permanent marker so it's zero fuss going back to ideal distances/angles. If I were being really precise I'd get a 30cm ruler out since my lens gets 1:1 bang on from that distance, but I havent needed to do that since the first few setups.Idk what to tell you, I've never struggled like OP has. Maybe it's the lack of parkinsons or the fact I have a clear working space that isn't crammed in my Hong Kong-style bedroom. >every time you use it which involves adjusting all or most of the fixtures.Mark the adjustments like I have. It does save time.
