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File: dirty little secrets.jpg (138 KB, 699x1130)
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Decisive Edition

Please post film photos, talk about film photography, film gear like cameras, film stocks, news, and tips/tricks in this thread.

Also talk about darkroom practices, enlargers, photo paper, techniques like dodging/burning, tools, and equipment related to enlarging, developing, and printing.

Thread Question: What is the oldest camera or lens that you shot with? Would you use it on a daily basis?

Previous thread: >>4500379
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>>4504208
Real Thread Question: To Crop Or Not To Crop?
(copied the old version of the template while 4chan was being stupid about creating a new thread, sorry.)
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>>4504208
>What is the oldest camera or lens that you shot with? Would you use it on a daily basis?
Pic related, my latest acquisition. It's from the 30's. And yes I plan to use it on a daily basis.
I'm getting some developer and fixer tomorrow to develop the film I recently shot, I'm doing some experiments to see what ISO is the most practical. Now I just shot Kentmere Pan 100 but maybe if I go a little higher I could also be more versatile and creative with filters. Though I did enjoy doing some timed exposures in daytime shade.

I need results first but I'm having a blast with this simple camera so far.
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So I shot some 35mm color film and handed it to a shop to get it developed. Had to pay 20 euros for developing, scanning and to have my negatives back. I think this is only going to be a one time thing and switch to b/w and develop on my own. This is simply too much.

I am a little upset that the cheap 1-hour developing services are long gone and never returning. Man, we didn't know how good we had it.
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>>4504208
To answer thread question, the oldest camera / lense I've used is the Zenit E with Helios 44-2, it took great quality images but I found it a bit strange to use, this was a long time ago now, im sure if I unboxed it and put a roll through it I would understand it better now.
I did use the helios lense on a DSLR which was a fun experiment.

I got some film developed recently, the Olympus Mju ii is such a nice little camera, used Gold200
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>>4504211

I usually don’t crop. Instead I take multiple shots with different framing to see which one I like more later.
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>>4504219

This little shrine/chapel is a perfect example.

>>4504218
>>4504212

Real thread question was underneath the OP.
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>>4504211
I don't crop unless it makes the photo better. I'll leave the film border in if I don't crop as a reminder to myself.
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>>4504220
I liked the old question and I don't really have enough of an opinion on cropping.
Do it if it helps your picture, I guess. But shouldn't you always try to frame the pic correctly from the get go?
Anyway, I like your pic, the portrait orientation works really well.
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Does my fomapan 100 have covid? What are all these white dots. I seen it on several 120 rolls. Am I developing wrong?
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>>4504278
Yes.
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>>4504278
You got cum in the bath water.
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>>4504280
Yes. Should I cum in the fixer too to balance it out? Not sure I can go twice back to back, Im no spring chicken anymore
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>>4504278
Precipitation in the fixer? Try filtering it out just mix a fresh batch.
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>>4504284
The white dots are from foma's thin emulsion.
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Are jpgs alright for simple edits? I don't do my own developing and most labs send back jpgs. TIFF is also an option but it costs quite a bit more and is very excessive for my admittedly mediocre photos. The only edits I'd really be doing is a little bit of exposure adjustment.

Which also leads me to ask, why do so many labs only offer JPG and TIFF? Why can't DNG be a middle option or something?
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>>4504315
Tiff and dng are the same candy with a different wrapper. Just get the tiffs once and see if you need them.
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>>4504316
Aren't TIFFs usually massive though? Like 150-500mb in size for each photo? Even my digital camera RAW files never go beyond 50mb.
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>>4504317
Depends on a variety of things. My grayscale 2400dpi 35mm scans are like 12-15MB tiff files.
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>>4504317
Around 50 MB B&W and 150 MB color for 16 bit 4000 dpi scans (roughly 6000x4000 pixels).
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>>4504286
Does this mean it will always look like this? Or can I develop it differently to minimize the effect? Ive been doing 9 min ilford agitation in rodinal
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>>4504328
I've gotten mixed results from foma. Sometimes it shows up and sometimes it doesnt.
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>>4504329
Apparently this was a manufacturing error around 2020 and they have been replacing rolls from those batches
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>>4504331
Not sure if the defect is the same one as on this shot, but I've noticed the white dot thing appearing on some but not all sheets of foma purchased in 2024.
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>>4504338
Looks similar. Mine is 645 so the dots are larger. I sent them a mail asking about it
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>>4504208
>What is the oldest camera or lens that you shot with? Would you use it on a daily basis?

The oldest camera/lens I use is my Graflex 4x5 Crown Graphic with Graflex Optar 135mm f/4.7 lens from around the early 1950s. I believe the lens was originally manufactured by the Wollensak company. It's surprisingly usable handheld, but sheet film is way too expensive to shoot on the daily.
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Went to an analog photography shop to get developer and fixer but they didn't have fixer in stock.
They didn't have any Fomapan 100 either, so annoying, I am trying to support local businesses but man it's hard.
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>>4504380
Yeah, I don't have a photo shop in my city so I order online. I'm up visiting family in another state. Theres a shop in the nearby city that's about 15% more expensive for film. Even after shipping it's still a net loss.
Then again, these days, you go to brick and mortar to talk shop, swap advice, or network. If you frequent enough, maybe they'll cut you a discount. How much you value that kind of thing is subjective.
I'm not that extroverted so that kind of interaction isn't worth much to me, personally.
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>>4504381
In my local analog camera store the boomer owner is pissed off and upset that you are disturbing him. Hes also angry that he has no customers
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>>4504383
That's part of the problem, too. More often than not it's some old asshole running the store treating customers like shit.
Not always, but most of the time.
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>>4504381
I don't feel like the kid running the cashier there knows anything, he wants to help but all he does is google for answers on the shop computer. And I am just a bit bummed out they didn't have a complete development kit available nor some of the cheaper 120 films.
And yeah, they are expensive, which is becoming more and more big of a deal if the shop provides very little extra in terms of service or knowledge.

The sooner I get into a routine of developing and scanning myself, the better.
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>>4504380
1 gallon of stock TF4 is cheap and you make 4 gallons with it. I know it's not the point, but you can just be done with fixer worries for a long time. TF4 is kinda stinky, but you get used to it.
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>>4504380
>>4504383
Reading this makes me thankful for the old asian lady who runs my local lab. 8 bucks dev or 12 bucks dev + scan, always has a decent selection of film at about the same as online prices, consistent quality and they work damn fast. Literally walked down the street to panda express and they've finished my two rolls and are calling me to say they're ready before I've even finished my damn orange chicken. If you live in LA even remotely near mid-city/Hollywood you gotta go to D&J
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>>4504386
Is that available in Europe, Netherlands specifically?
As of right now I just bought a small amount of rodinal and ordered a bag of powder for 1 liter of fixer. This is just to see if I enjoy the process and if I want to stick to shooting black and white medium format film. But I will be looking for larger quantities if all goes well.
I currently have three rolls that need to be developed. I kinda enjoy shooting the 120 film so far, fewer frames makes me a little more careful and I am less likely to do retakes, especially with the 6x9 camera.

I may want to try contact printing too, how much of the chemicals can be interchangeable with multigrade photo paper anyway?
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>>4504390
>I may want to try contact printing too, how much of the chemicals can be interchangeable with multigrade photo paper anyway?
You can get away with it if you don't care about the results (I did in the past with HC-110), but it's using the wrong tool for a wrong purpose. Paper developers are different from film developers, fixers are more similar but typically use different dilution (1+4 vs 1+9).
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Here is one of my piggy prints I am working on. The power of staining developers like pyrocat MC is on full display here. I did a split contrast exposure, but at c0 25s and c4 30s I could have just used a c2 or c2.5 filter and been just as well off.
Full midday sun highlights on near white subject + deep shadows on dark objects and printed with no silly business.

Oh yeah if you mix dektol from fresh chemicals it is actually a clear solution and not dehydrated piss colored.

>>4504390
Sounds like a good plan.
Unless you want to become autistic about contact printing you can use all the same stuff. Amidol based paper developers + chloride paper is the ideal, but amidol is toxic, stains everything, and is expensive, but you get the most amazing looking prints from it.
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>>4504390
Oh yeah, misread your question. Get a paper developer. Dektol or Ansco 130.
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>>4504380
I'm struggling to support my local store. It has good shit but they charge a lot for everything, especially for developing/scanning if you want them to do it, but then a place in the next city is an hour drive and has everything a lot cheaper.
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>>4504408

Really nice shot there. Very reminiscent of Ravilious's work. What films do you tend to use?
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This one needed some dodging to lighten up the goat higher in the tree.

>>4504419
Thank you. That guy takes some really amazing rural pics. Thanks for putting me onto him.
XX @ 400, 50mm summarit.
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>>4504400
>>4504408
>>4504410
Thanks for the clarification. Once I get a grip on developing I will delve into photopaper.



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