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Let's have a positive terrain thread.
Post pics of cool tables and pieces, share tips and tricks, discuss your latest projects.
>>
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I got my son interested in wargaming so we also started doing terrain together. Made some cliffs from XPS plastic and I tried making some trees from flock and jute rope. I also took some old tin cans and sprayed them with a metal primer to make some gypsy solos for gaming boards. My next idea is to make more rock piles and craters for lighter scatter terrain.
>>
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And here are some of the cliffs we did.

What are some best practices for making craters? I've seen guides for doing them from tin foil pie plates, others use chunks of XPS.
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>>96697778
Imo still one of the best beginner tutorials.
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>>96697800
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>>96697822
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>>96697769
Duude, where do you live that it looks like you've taken those photos on my windowsill?
>>
>>96697850

Poland
>>
Posting some cool stuffs.
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>>96697908
>>
>>96697912
>>
>>96697925
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>>96697753
Fuck yeah

>>96697912
I want to fight on your table scummer
>>
>>96697753
Is basing welcome here?
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>>96699837
I guess so.
>>
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How dare you bake my thread for me
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I finally got around to finishing my fur battle mat. Bases occasionally don't stand straight and you can't roll dice on it, but it looks kinda neat.
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Now for some inspirational stuff.
Saved this one some time ago.
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28mil Barrels from toilet paper rolls.
This one is mine, pretty much sums up the whole process in one pic.
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I really like toilet paper rolls as material.
These look so real, I was asked if I was working on my car's muffler when I made these.
The key is the rust effect paint job.
Apply sand mixed with PVA in a random fashion, then undercoat black.
Paint the whole thing silver, pick out the sandy parts by drybrushing, bring them up from a dark brown to a glowing orange, tone back down with lots of black wash, apply silver and orange drybrush again where it's needed.
>>
These are super simple yet super messy.
>>
>>96701922
Also: >>96701922
You can see some of the finished barrels from >>96701856 in teh last pic.
>>
The good old spiky 40k 2nd ed. cacti can be pushed up to the next level with a nice paint job.
>>
I make posters from cut outs from supermarket flyers.
Mostly labels of booze bottles but also other cool looking stuff.
>>
Picked this toy fire truck from the streets, I regularly go through bulky waste when there is some, lots of great finds.
>>
I saw a "spider skeleton" in all the Halloween decoration stuff on sale at the moment and was really tempted to buy it to use as the basis of a terrain piece. The only problem is I think it's just a bit too big. I think a 30cm circle is about the max sized base I'd use for that kind of "flavour" terrain but the spider skeleton was about 40cm wide. I could maybe fold the legs up more or something but then I don't think it would look right as an old giant skeleton sitting in the middle of a wasteland.
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Basic tips for making a better looking table

1) Make coherent terrain, think about where your board takes place in, and place your pieces as if you were recreating a real place in the setting rather than an artificial paintball arena. A major issue that I see in bad terrain images is that players blindly take whatever terrain pieces they have available at the local shop terrain shelf and throw them all over the table with no coherency or theme. Avoid this at all costs. Do not put tree terrain on a volcano mat, do not put buildings on top the roads on your city mat. This should be self explanatory to anyone but unfortunately needs to be said still.

2) Make hills for 2D mats environments that would realistically not be a flat surface. A city or village mat being flat works mostly fine, but if you're playing in a forest, desert, mars, etc. the flat board will look out of place and strange without some hills. Even making a few large platform hills to break up 30-50% of the table into elevated terrain can instantly improve the look of a neoprene or cloth mat tenfold.

3) Do not care about symmetry or competitive play layouts. Avoid these like the plague, they always look unrealistic and bad. If someone at your group insists on using these layouts then try to convince them otherwise, and if that fails, refuse to play with them. Foster a community where to get games in people need to put in effort to make the board look good.

4) Objectives. Objective markers are no different from any other terrain piece. Make sure they match the rest of the theme of the table. Come up with an idea of what the objective represents, why would the armies be fighting over them? Of course, avoid neoprene circle objectives at all costs.
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>>96697753
can you not make the terrain general AI?

It looks like shit
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Idk why he thought that was a good idea
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>>96702006
>never recognized the clear and deliberate fascist iconography that KFC has until now
>he's even called "The Colonel"
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>>96704214
5) Keep your gaming trinkets and tools off the table as much as possible. A board that is covered in dice, books, measuring tools, tokens, dice trays and your snacks will always instantly look worse to the eye. Obviously for some games you'll need tokens or dice to track status effects, but try to limit this as much as possible and remove them whenever they're no longer necessary. Investing in a side table or under-table shelf to put your books and tools on is a wise idea.

6) Less can be more. You don't always need to make a cramped Mordheim or Necromunda style table for it to look good, making a nice table doesn't need to be expensive either. Something as basic as a grass mat with hills and trees, or a wasteland board with nothing but rocky outcrops and formations can be perfectly pleasing to look at if the colours match the board
>>
>>96704273
Wtf... That layout isn't even tournament legal
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>>96704282
>>96704221
Bitch you too thursty.
>>
>>96697753
Nice table anon, care to share your techniques?
>>
>>96700110
>my thread
Post proof of ownership or kys.
>>
>trolling and shitposting in one of the nicest threads on here because you have nothing better to do in your life

Anyway. I need to make some rocks.

How the fuck do I make rocks like these traditionally? They look great but I'm not using 3d prints
>>
>>96705855
Like I'm talking about the natural faces and cracks and stuff
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>>96705855
I'd go with tree bark.
You can get in the arts and crafts or on amazon.
>>
>>96705865
If they're made with foam, I'd get a few spikes/sculpting tools, then just press-draw the patterns into the foam like the stonework in >>96701826.

As for how you'd make them realistic, for me it's looking up a shitload of photos of actual rocks and ruins until it clicks.
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I recently got my hand on an unreasonable amount of styrofoam and was considering building a full table worth of modular labyrinth walls.
But I'm wondering: is there any point of making these for wargames?
Even for TTRPGs, honestly: you only have encounter in one room after another, do you really need to represent the corridors in between?
It's too bad, I already built enough rock formation AND enough scifi buildings to fill an entire table and some more, I don't know what to do with this styrofoam.
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>>96706554
For wargames not really, but for dungeon crawlers it's great.
I guess this goes for RPGs too.
Pic is my WarhammerQuest setup.
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>>96706554
They are fun for small narrative wargames like Mordheim and Frostgrave
>>
>>96706554
Whatever you do, make sure to weigh the bases. Styrofoam walls are gonna fall over the moment someone looks at them funny.
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i've finished a pair of old school ork houses, they were really fun to do
to be honest i just made them because i found the material in the trasbin in front of my house, i dont play anything retro

i have two more built and prepared to be painted
maybe i will try gorkamorka with a friend just to use them as i dont have amything to use them with
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and the other one
i posted the first one some days ago on the /grog/ general
for the ones that dont know, during 40k second edition ork houses looked like this
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Shit I haven't been able to work on in almost a year. There's a whole pile of other cardboard buildings I've glued stuff to waiting for me to have a chance to prime again.
>>
I have currently started on some terrain to purpose for multiple games I have been playing recently. I am following some guides and will post whenever I end up finishing them. They are a set of like 5 or so hills. Split between desert ones and woodland/greenland ones. Using cardboard so hopefully I don't fuck it up too much.
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>>96710692
Some buildings I've been working on this months, fully playable interiors and all scratch from wood and foam and card
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>>96710706
Oops forgot pic
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>>96706853
>>96706833
Kino af
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>>96706833
>to be honest i just made them because i found the material in the trasbin in front of my house, i dont play anything retro
Well they don't have to be "retro ork buildings". They could just be adobe buildings. I don't play historicals but I've always wanted to do a North African style table.
>>
>>96697753
the AI table for the general is gay. Don't do that again
>>
I made this a few months ago. I haven't been able to work on it since, have had some health scares and doing some house work but im feeling better and the house work is done. Hopefully this weekend or next I'll be able to bang out some more stuff.
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>>96712658
Heres a side shot.
>>
And here's the other side. I wanted to add bones and other bits but this was mostly a spure of the moment build and very little was planned ahead of time. I'll definitely go back and add some stuff though.
>>
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This was the last bit I did before I got sick. Planning on making a larger game board out of this one off terrain piece.
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>>96712689
that middle piece is pretty great. gonna be a cool board, anon
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>make outline of toxic waste pool with scrap and nearly expired clay
>realise this could have just been a few layers of scrap cardboard

Oh well, its fun to glue bits together, going to put filler in the holes soon then skim the whole thing. Still needs more toxic waste barrels.
>>
Anybody got stuff that uses storm drains and gutters? Looking for a little inspiration for a future project.
>>
>>96712658
Where's the fingerblasting goth girls edit?

>T4ARD
thanks cap...
>>
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Here's everything I've managed to finish in 2025 (except one base for a large forest, but it's nothing more than a piece of MDF with sand and flock).
>>
Nice stuff in here, I always like reading this thread.
>>96706554
I feel you, I got these 2 interlocking pieces that would be a great cityscape with a dungeon under it, but there isn't a game I know that plays on a table like that.
>>
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I recently finished these and am working on a bridge to go between them.
Painted to imply a roof on both because I 'ate Van Saar bastards with lascannons up towers.
>>96715858
Excellent work anon, is that the house and dwarfen hold you posted wips of in /whfg/?
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>>96706554
>enough rock formation AND enough scifi buildings
Could make some ziggurats, ruins and jungle themed table.
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>>96713927
>>
>>96715858
>>96717704
>>96712658

Good stuff, keep it up anons
>>
I'm debating getting a hotwire table, like a proxxon or a hercules or something similar. Anyone got a recommendation, or tip on what to avoid, before I drop $150+?
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>>96720216
I have a few jungle scatters, but yeah I guess I could go for a good few more.
A ziggurat could be really fun, especially if I make it a bit modular, but I was wondering:
You can't really carve bricks or stones, in styrofoam. So you are stuck with solid shapes. It works ok with monoliths, rocks, or even concrete buildings, but for pre-modern stuff?
Is it possible to cut it in little bricks and assemble them? Or should I just make the shape out of the foam and then cover it with air-drying clay which I can shape into looking like individual bricks?
Maybe the best idea is to make it look like a neatly maintained ziggurat rather than a ruin, with its stucco exterior intact.
I will try a few things
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>>96715858
Absolutely amazing lad, how did you do the rock face on the Dwarf Hold please?
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Some cool terrain pics I saved over the years.
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>>96722212
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>>96722237
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>>96722275
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>>96722323
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>>96722323
My dumb ass thought this was the Krusty Krab
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>>96717704
Oh it's the guy! With the kickass gang and the tiny midget dude.

Love your stuff, you inspired me to choose Goliaths for my first gang.
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>>96721176
not that guy, but to me a well made jungle board has to feel claustrophobic without ruining the gameplay. it's wet, humid, anything brightly coloured kills you, and the jungle is eating everything around it.
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>>96722332
God damn that's pretty.
>>
>>96723199
>choose Goliaths for my first gang.
Based and big guy-pilled, did you get to run a few of them through a campaign yet?
>tiny midget dude
lel Melvin was my only ganger to escape the Uprising campaign End Times, my Ubertyrant went insane first turn and beat the shit out of the rest of my crew.
New campaign soon so Im slapping some fresh terrain together
>>
bought a roll of this stuff to cut into strips and turn into roads/rivers but boy does it reek of rubber. I'd return it but its the best value rubber roll by dollar per square footage I've found, so before giving up on it I'm gonna try to clear the smell. Air it out a few days, spritz with vinegar, than wash with soapy water, and than cover in baking soda. hope it works.
>>
>>96728411
Check to see if that will accelerate dry-rotting. Actually, if it's roads you're making, maybe dry-rot would help sell the effect. So if that stuff doesn't crack it up, it might be good to go search up what would.
By the way, cork, the kind used in bulletin boards, makes great busted-up roads for Gaslands and other post-apocalypse games.
>>
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>>96717704
Yes, these were my WIPs from /wfg/ but I try not to spam them with the progress on my builds.
>>96721455
The base was done using rock molds from woodland scenics. For casting, I used tier 3 dental plaster. Then gaps between rocks were filled with smashed bark pieces.
>>96722332
Each time I see this table, it reminds me of the good old days of Warmachine and terrain tutorials from their magazine.
>>
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>>96730167
And here's the base for the rock face. Pieces of XPS glued with construction adhesive and connected from the inside by toothpicks for additional contact points. It was important for stability to give the whole build a big enough MDF plate to stand on, and from the bottom, I've added a bunch of screws to weigh it down too.
>>
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Wip of my first ever terrain piece.
The roof is currently drying.
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>>96730453
Very nice. Simple, yet elegant, can be used from 1100 to 1900 or any fantasy setting. Very versatile piece of terrain! Make 10 more.
>>
>>96730453
>The roof is currently drying.
Flat mop soaked in thinned PVA?
>>
>>96730639
Bathtowel
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Recent terrain project.
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>>96730670
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>>96697769
>>96697850
>itt anon finds out his upstairs neighbour was beating his wife *at wargames*
>>
>>96703932
>I saw a "spider skeleton" in all the Halloween decoration stuff on sale

In recent years Halloween has become a regular thing in Australia... instead of back in the late 90s/early 00s when I was a kid and could have gone out trick or treating...

Anyway, for any Aussies in the thread, Big W currently has a bunch of Halloween decorations, including different skeletons. Things like cats, dogs, unicorns, teddy bears and spiders. However, amongst them is also a piranha skeleton and a crocodile skeleton. The piranha is $7 and the croc is $15.
>https://www.bigw.com.au/product/halloween-small-skeleton-animal-assorted-/p/6012160
>https://www.bigw.com.au/product/halloween-crocodile-skeleton-decoration-60cm/p/6012165
Woolworths also has the Piranha for $5.
>https://www.woolworths.com.au/shop/productdetails/6011564/halloween-small-skeleton-fish

I grabbed a couple of piranhas and a croc and might grab some more after Halloween (if they have any left and put them on clearance) because I think they could make for some great terrain pieces.
>>
>>96728411
If its not too late you can likely unroll and expose the neoprene to the sun so it off gasses whatever VOCs its got going on.
>>
>>96704257
Work on your art
>>
>>96706554
It's great for TTRPGs! Players will really like it, and there's a lot of fun dungeon stuff you can do. Illusionary walls, secret passages, masonry in the dungeon, etc
>>
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Today I tried making craters from foil. I filled them with paper moistened with watery PVA, what other materials I should use for filling them? Also, when making scatter terrain, do you use MDF bases or do you just cut cardboard to proper size?
>>
>>96727935
Not yet, we're waiting until I've finished moving house before setting up since I'm going into a much bigger place I'll be able to have a room for wargaming/tabletop so that will be the genesis of my dream necromunda table that I've wanted since like 2005.

Glad to hear you're hard at work, your terrain piece looks fantastic I'd love to see more of what you've got and what you're working on any time.

Also, from an experienced big-guy enjoyer, what heavy weapons do you find the most enjoyable for Goliath? I love the idea of a genespliced tyrant with 2+ to hit and a big stick but all the guns look equally badass. Rocket Launcher, Heavy Bolter, Multimelta, Autocannon, they all seem great.
>>
>>96732437
I use mdf for everything. If not, that means I must have used some kind of a plastic e.g. from a picture frame. I had my fill of warped terrain bases through the years.
>>
>>96732437
Maybe spackle?
>>
>>
>>96732502
Heavy bolter because its terrifying, rocket launcher because its fun lol. But it is mostly just what you like the look of and fancy converting which is basically what I did.
>genespliced tyrant with 2+ to hit
Id avoid doing this to start because BS and WS upgrades come fairly cheap XP-wise during the campaign, so it makes more sense to spend your gene-smithing upgrades from Tyrants Own etc on wounds or attacks which are both extremely expensive.
Feels a little bit gamey, but you cant have your bossman getting wound-mogged by a dyel Orlock roundcaptain, and as long as you dont take the piss putting dermal hardening your whole gang I think its fine 2bh
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>>96730799
Noice. But there's no Big Ws near me, live to close to the city
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doing a park-ish area for my warcry/mordheim board
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>>96733693
>no Big Ws near me
How is that possible?
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>>96734450
what are girls from Plumpton like?
>>
>>96734450
Oh shit there's one in the city. Most are pretty far out


>>96734498
Guess. It's a poor area so they live up to the name.
>>
>>96734450
Also you need to remember, driving somewhere costs time, it's normally cheaper for me to spend more money to buy something online and have it shipped. Top Ryde is actually good too, I have a site not far from there
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>>96734498
Unremarkable
>>
>>96732502
I played against a Goliath gang regularly, and I can say that I deeply resented the number of boltguns my regular opponent would field.

So if your idea of fun is causing your opponent physical anxiety, then get all the bolters, and put bolters on your bolters.

Beware; this may cause an escalating cheese war.
>>
>>96734590
I told you, fat bogans

Top middle looks ok though
>>
>>96732437
>Also, when making scatter terrain, do you use MDF bases or do you just cut cardboard to proper size?
I used to use card, but it warps pretty badly, especially when using pva glue. These days I use fibreboard, it's cheap and relatively easy to cut/carve.
>>
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Could be better, but I guess it's ok for my first piece of terrain.
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>>96736936
>>96736941
Looks really good
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>>96736936
>>96736941
Looks amazing, actually!
Got any more pics in full light so I can copy it? I need to make some of these for my WOTR games
>>
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>>96737053
Here you go, buddy.
Cardboard hotglued together, coffee stir sticks, yellow foil smeared with glue and a bathtowel. I just eyeballed the measurements.
>>
bumps
>>
>>96702038
have totes upon totes of broken/old toys & such...so satisfying when you complete a project that was the reason you bought it
>>
>>96732437
heavy foil disposable ashtrays are great for craters...glue the rim down give in whack and base & paint
>>
>>96700121
I am a big enjoyer of the furry mats. They make the terrain and board really pop.
>>
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>>96737213
Nice my dude, but could use some weathering.
Here's my medieval town building.
>>
Anons im planning on making a diorama with 1/144 size gundams( Roughly 7 inches tall) . Its going to be 2 Zakus guarding a excavation site, blah blah blah anyway, i need little figures and little excavation machines,any ideas where to get little machines for the little workers?
>>
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>mfw DISDAIN for L shaped ruins
Picked this guy up in Woolworth‘s and slapped some paint on. Would you make a base for him?
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>>96745130
Smallest figurines I know of are 1/72, but in the modelkit scene you'd find plenty of fitting figures and machines and stuff.
>>
>>96744557
I'm a big enjoyer of furry muffs. They make me really pop.
>>
>>96745319
Yeah mostly to prevent it from moving around. And maybe add something for models to stand on top of it, like some planks
>>
>>96745130
maybe H0 train scale aka 1/87, they have anything foundable near train track
>>
>>96734590
top right cute


Just go to the big w in the city. Every kmart has similar decorations at the moment too
>>
>>96747192
I play Warcry in the city so that's my plan!
>>
>>96730670
>>96730677
Very nice. Would play on.

Are you planning on just leaving those stones loose to move around or what?

>>96736936
>>96736941
Really like the whitewash and wood.
>>
>>96745344
>>96746240
Thanks anons
>>
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>>96745130
If you want something more specific there's the builders parts ms figures which are MG or HG scale pilots and crew. There's also a couple of kits that have come with infantry, but they're pretty uncommon.
HO, 1/72, those are gonna be way bigger. They're about double the size. Sometimes buildings are close enough to fudge it but humans will probably be a bit off. 10mm or 12mm scale wargame figures are probably the nearest substitute.
>>
>>96745130
>>96749424
N scale is close.
>>
>>96730799
I was at my Woolies and they have the "woolworths commemorative truck".
If you've had eyes on it, do you think its close enough to 1/64th scale for converting to terrain for modern/post-apocalypse tabletop?
>>
>>96730167
>NQ terrain tuts
God, to this day their trench terrain remains gold standard to me.
>>96722275
God, is that Super Dungeon? I actually like their minis, but fuck the prices because of that whole OOP stuff. Kinda wanna learn how to sculpt chibi minis, but it's all 3d stuff and I don't have a good place for a printer.
>>
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I have a bunch of these and I want to make industrial tanks out of them. What could or should I use to hide the engraved logo?
>>
>>96750656
Milliput white is a really good filler for smooth surfaces like that.
>>
>>96745380
Im popping rn thinking of em if you know what I mean
>>
>>96750697
thanks, I'll try that
>>
>>96750656
Maybe fill it with plaster or something so it won't just buckle and crack the filler when you try sanding said filler.
>>
>>96715858
Goddamn, those look beautiful
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>>96750755
Explain yourself
>>
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>>96750656
Maybe you can use filler putty like this. Get a putty knife or plastic card, smudge this stuff into the logo, sand off excess once dry.
>>
>>96705886

Or like... outside...

>>96706853

Looks awesome anon. The orks are also very nicely painted!
>>
Not so fast
>>
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I think I've bitten off more than I can chew with my latest project. I'm trying to build a haunted house (and paint some Scooby Doo minis to go with it), and I'm having trouble keeping things straight. It's also taking a lot of time and I don't think I can do it by Halloween.
Guess I need to reconsider my approach, and probably drop the idea of a playable interior. Go for more of a diorama.
>>
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what do you guys think about this?
>>
>>96733059
This reminds me on the stuff you used to see on terragenesis

Fuck I miss that forum; yet another victim of FB and Reddit
>>
>>96760120
I do enjoy 3d printing terrain, but to me that kinda seems like a missed opportunity (at least currently), going through kilograms of filament printing an entire boards worth of tiles, only to end up with something that is functionally identical to a mat with terrain pieces placed on top.
Id atleast want a proper, carved-out river or gully to take advantage of the fact that it has some depth and is not a neoporene or grass mat.
>>
>>96759090
>I'm having trouble keeping things straight
It looks good so far, does it truly need to be 100% straight if its a somewhat stylised scooby-doo or fantasy haunted house?
>>
>>96760120
>>96760854
That particular crowdfund project is actually for the grid that snaps together *beneath* what is pictured there.
>>
>>96761194
What do you put on top of it?
>>
>>96760885
Oh, haha, I gave up on keeping everything square/level immediately, for just what you said: It's a scooby doo haunted house, crooked is fine. What I meant was making sure that the walls/edges at least somewhat lined up so I could have good magnet placement to keep them in place, figuring out where to cut holes for stairs, and staying generally organized and on top of my supplies and time.
>>
How deep of resin would be fine for wargaming terrain. 1/16, 1/8, 1/4? More?
>>
>>96761684
For a river, forgot that part
>>
Any advice on how to make good looking tents out of paper?
Tents are so universal they could fit literally any time period and could be found on (the edge of) any battlefield.
>>
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>>96761946
No experience making tents per se, but I bet you could get decent results cutting a triangular prism out of styrofoam and draping a pva-soaked wet-wipe over it. Will be more durable than paper and you get a bit of clothy texture out of it for free.
pic somewhat related, used one here
>>96761576
>so I could have good magnet placement to keep them in place
Could you use ferrous sheet on one half rather than magnets? If you cover a larger area with the sheet rather than trying to line magnet A with magnet B you dont have to as precise with your placement. Its what I did for my necromunda terrain to give a bit of wiggleroom when placing magnetised walkways between structures
>>
>>96701826
>>96706003
>>96712689
Question from someone with no actual experience building terrain, but a growing interest in trying my hand at it:

How durable is terrain made out of foam? Like if it is as easy to mark and leave imprints as simply drawing on it with a pen, then how do you stop it from being battered to hell and back? I assume that paint helps to seal or protect it in someway, but is that all? Or do you have to seal it with something else first?

Also, is there a particular type of foam that's better to use then other types?
>>
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How would you go about to build a giant ribcage terrain like that?
You would imagine the spooky season would be great for that, but actually human ribs don’t look like what you would expect dragon bones to look like and most plastic animal skeletons are not very big, or have the ribs fused together.
I could sculpt them outright, a fairly light material would be needed.
I have a few ideas, but if anyone has experience with this it would be useful
>>
>>96765125
It can dent yes, but the dents stay painted so it doesnt matter too much.
I wouldnt leave foam terrain at an LGS for every other hamfisted retard who walks in to play with, but unless youre really careless with it you shouldnt really see any damage just using it at home.
Best types imo are XPS for large blocks and foamex for anything below 5mm thickness
>>
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>>96761272
3d printed tiles.
>>
>>96765205
Note that they say it takes up to 17 kg of filament for a 180 x 120 cm table. That's about $200 for the filament alone, not to mention the cost of printing and the material for making it look like terrain.
>>
>>96765205
>>96765219
I don't get it. Couldn't you just make this grid out of wood in an afternoon or two? For tiles just get foam or whatever and magnets. Wouldn't that be cheaper too?
Is there something I am missing?
>>
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>>96765241
The grid is made up of interlocking 8x8-inch parts.
Its main selling point is its modularity and the ease with which things can be added.
>>
>>96765311
I see. I guess there are people who'd need this too.
I don't often increase or decrease the sizes of my tables so that I'd have to change my boards' sizes too, so it was weird to me.
>>
>>96765125
Xps is durable enough that if you handle it with basic care it won't break. You can dent it with dice and minatures but you'd really have to drop some heavy dice or minatures on them to ruin a piece.
Xps is the best option IMO it cuts easily with a knife, better with a hot knife cutter (but you'll need a vented room + face mask with filter to be safe. Everyone says its perfectly fine to breath in the fumes but I don't trust anyone on this)
Non acidic glue (PVA or modge podge) and black paint+water is what I use to seal and prime my pink foam for painting. It creates a protective layer that will keep it safe in normal play situations. Water will react with the glue though so be careful with that.
The terrain tutor on YouTube taught me alot when I was first getting into building. Just know your first few projects will look bad until you pick up the skills and techniques. Like everything practice makes perfect!
>>
>>96765190
Polystyrene foam, should be able to get it from your hardware store in the density and thickness appropriate to the bone size you want.
>Draw out semicircle from outside top edge lengthwise.
>draw out smaller semiciricle inside it, leaving space to cut
>repeat for smaller and smaller ribs
>cut out, cut 1/2 circles into 1/4s
>sand to shape, base
Some anons have used putty as the main part around wire, or as an easier way to get broken bone effects.
Modge podge or other textures for bone vary.
>>
>>96762352
Maybe, but other than a pair of (not terribly good) tinsnips, I don't really have the tools for it.
All in all, I think I just made it too big of a project, so I'm gonna step back from it for a bit.
>>
>>96766718
>tinsnips
Nah it doesnt need to be metal, just get some shit like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/stores/TheMagnetShop/FerrousSheets_Sheets/page/FB368867-1016-4C8C-9C56-2D8B7AAC6223
it might not be strong enough to pick the house up by it, but it'll keep the roof and floors in place, plus you can cut it with a craft knife or scissors
>I just made it too big of a project, so I'm gonna step back from it for a bit.
Nah dont do that or it'll sit abandoned for a decade like the gargant I left in my parents attic
>>
>>96765311
>>96765392
I mean you could do that with cheap wood or even foamboard and some magnets.
Hell you could simply get those magnetic tile toys and get the same result, for maybe cheaper without the need of a 3D printer.
>>
>>96765190
Just get a whole chicken, eat it and use the skeleton?
>>
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This is the table for my game with my brother tomorrow.
>>
>>96769753
nice pieces, but too many long open lines of sights on the layout for me
>>
>>96769795
Appreciate the feedback. I moved some stuff around to reduce the long lines of fire. I was trying to keep enough room for vehicles to move.
>>
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>>96697753
Hey gang
I'm about to make trench terrain for my local for the first time. I may have bitten off more than I can chew, but it'll at least be better than the two mediocre and crumbling apart trenches they already have.
Can anyone help me identify what this material is? It's the base for like half their terrain collection and it's very durable because the bli remember these exact same pieces from back when I was in middle school like fucking 15 years ago, and only one or two of them have had the cities of death ruin break off, but the base remain solid.
Desperately need an answer, want to at least build the terrain this week before I go back to work camp for two weeks.
>>
>>96700121
looks slick af
>>
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one half of the city board I decided to do. Intend to play Mordheim on it eventually. I love doing houses so felt that I didnt wanna do the ruined look however. Also kinda unhappy with the stone base.
>>
>>96769636
That's seriously grimdark
>>
>>96770827
>>96769795

Another option is visibility.
We often play variable visibility which means you can risk running in the open
>>
>>96771008
Looks like some sort of hardboard or particle board, maybe? If you can bring a piece to a hardware store like Lowes or something I'm sure they can ID it.
>>
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I finished some scatter terrain this week, though maybe the craters need more drybrushing and some flock?
>>
>>96705855
Xps foamboard
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>>96772366
yes
>>
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>>96715838
>>
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Is there a material that can be cast, which would be both strong and light enough to be used to make a large piece of terrain?
I want to make a mould of my hand to make a cool terrain out of it.
Plaster is the easiest, but it’s both fragile and fairly dense. Resin would be more durable but fairly heavy, for something that big. Papier mache would be ideal, but I don’t think it can be cast.
>>
>>96772807
There's sillicone and foam rubber, but I don't think they'd be great for terrain.
You could try sprue goo, but it dries with a bunch of holes in it, usually, and if you're doing your whole hand I imagine it would take a metric shitload of sprue.
Maybe a type of clay (the light, air-dry stuff like model magic or something similar). Not terribly strong, though.

Dunno, man, without knowing how you plan to use it it's hard to make a recommendation. I'd say resin is probably your best all round option.
>>
>>
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>>96722332
>>96724205
>>
>>96697760
These look pretty cool. What kind of flock? Did you wind the jute taround anything?
>>
>>96772807
Your only good options would be either a spray foam if you want it really light and then just coating the outside of it like a lot to protect it or slosh cast the resin, make a hard mould, pour the resin in and slosh it around to cover as many of the surfaces as possible, let it set and repeat like 3 or 4 times to build thickness.
>>
>>96769753
It's nice when terrain pieces actually more or less match the battle mat.
>>
>>96773564
That's really impressive. Very naturalistic looking.
I've been wanting to make pine trees for my Warhammer table but it seems a bit daunting to go through the whole asparagus leaf process. And I heard they're too delicate for wargaming.
>>
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>>96780875
Try the Christmas tree decorations they sell at Woolworth's. Not as impressive but good enough I think.
>>
>>96775149

I used this brand of static flock, different color though. I didn't attach the ropes to anything else besides the base, but the problem with that is that it was quite hard. I need to think of a better solution for more robust tree armatures.
>>
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>>96782177

Stupid me forgot the picture...
>>
>>96782177
>>96782195
Thanks anon, they look neat. How many did you make?
>>
>>96783616

Three bases, one 120x92, two 90x52. Had to spare some MDF bases for craters also posted itt. I think I'll make a few more this autumn once I've thought of a better way to fix the ropes to bases.
>>
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Did I overdo it with the leaves?
>>
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These are half of the first trees I ever made! Thanks to the anon that recommended me a video for doing foliage without getting it everywhere, the parchment paper was a huge help. I still got green fuzz everywhere tho
>>
>>96783923
A little bit on the face, I would tuck some into the bottom recesses of the face/ground, like wind has built them up
>>
>>96773573
That and the troll village and the mechanized drawbridge are all in a fucking dumpster somewhere I bet, it fucking hurts so much bros
>>96784006
Nice, whats the recipe?
>>
>>96783923
I think it looks fine. It actually looks really good.
>>
>>96750656
Or equivalent. I'm pretty sure you could find suitable stuff from a hardware store.
>>
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>>96789101
Very atmospheric. Makes me want to start Necromunda myself.
>>
>>96750656
I mean, depending on the setting you're using it for, just go with it and paint the lettering. Free embossed text.
>>
>>96784061
Thanks! It was some printed mangrove trees painted ash white and grey with a red brown wash. The branches and foliage were GSW. I think maybe I should have glued the branches on before priming.
Is that how it's usually done?
>>
>>96789154
It's amazing
>>
>>96771008
>>96772086
Yeah, turned out to be hardboard. Got myself some.
Do I need to treat hardboard some how in order to avoid warping? I thought I heard that if I paint both sides at the same time, it'll sort of net zero warp itself so that it don't warp again
>>
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Painted up the Scooby Gang with the idea of making a Haunted House to go with them, but it's looking less and less likely that I'll finish the house. I like how these came out, though.
>>96798285
Never worked with it, so I can't say.
I will say that painting both sides of a basing material to prevent warping has never worked for me.
>>
>>96800543

I haven't built a ton of terrain, but I found that slathering mod podge on both sides of a base has done well to keep it from warping.
>>
>>96800543
Neat, those look excellent for some Betrayal at House on the Hill sessions.
>>
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>>96697753
I like Infinity's "smaller scale" terrain. Often looks really kino
>>
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>>96805648
>>
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>>96805656
>>
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>>96805669
>>
>>96783923
>>96784009's got a point, but it's not really anything that ruins the piece: It looks quite fine.
>>
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>>96697753
>>
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>>96765241
Mostly it's people trying to justify owning a 3D printer. There's lots of cool applications of one but making flat planes is stupid
>>
>>96811476
>making flat planes is stupid
>Me wanting to make movement trays for The Old World
Yes. Stupid.
>>
>>96805648
I love Infinity terrain too. Wish I still had time to play it
>>
>>96811487
Why not buy cheap MDF ones?
>>
>>96811487
Ive printed a couple, a good compromise is to print the frame/edge and cut the base layer from plasticard and glue them together, perhaps with some ferrous sheet sandwiched between them for magnetising
>>
>>96812578
>>96812767
I'd actually been thinking to make like small jigsaw pieces so I could swap tray sizes cheaply and also store them in bags or such instead of flat surfaces.
>>
So I've got about 20 sheets of 2x2 ft 2 inch high packing foam. I want to turn them into some kind of terrain. It's too fragile and crumbly for most things but itd be perfect for rocky formations, hills, and tower karsts. Any other ideas what I can make with this stuff before I throw away 75% of it? Because I've already made way more rock formations than I'll ever need
>>
>>96816142
It can work for stonework walls and ruins too. Maybe a quarry or something if you want to make an elevated battlefield
>>
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I built this walled enclosure 12+ years ago. I now use it mostly to take "in universe" pictures of my models
>>
>>96818604
Looks good, but are they an actual pile of rocks held together?
>>
>put rocks in can to rough up foam bricks
>inadvertently end up polishing the rocks
>>
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Current project, based on this:
https://worldofwaltonscrafts.blogspot.com/2019/07/quick-n-dirty-hobbit-holes.html
>>
>>96822792
comfy
>>
What would y'all recommend for glue? I got wood glue, but I need to glue FDM pieces to hardboard and foam board, as well as the same FDM to the same foam board.
>>
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I've only ever played on gamestore mats which were neoprene. Are fabric or vinyl mats hard to keep flat or keep still, or any tips on fixing them to a table? I want a mat for myself but I'm mostly concerned with wrinkles and the mat sliding around my large but kinda slippery tabletop. Mousepad material holds to it perfectly but the mats are a bit expensive at the size I want (6'x4').
>>
>>96822406
Yes.

I poured aquarium gravel in a jar with a lot dark grey (or dark brown, depending on the type of rocks you want to go for) and mixed them with a stick. Once all the gravel was nice and covered I spread it on some wax/parchemtn paper and let it fully dry.

This will let you paint it without needing to thin your paints to reach the crevices (which would reactivate the glue and make the wall collapse)

I mixed the gravel with a shitton of pva glue in the same way as I did the paint and then "poured" it into a mold I made with Lego.
I lined the mold with parchment paper so the pebbles would only stick to themselves.

Let it fully dry and then you can drybrush it, pick a few rocks out in a different colour, flock it etc.
>>
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>>96826122
I use fabric for my mats. Have made a drop cloth mat and a mat made out of faux fur fabric. Fabric lies quite flat and you can do stuff like place books underneath them to create hills so you don't need to make your own hill terrain. You won't have to worry about wrinkles, the drop cloth can wrinkle but as long as you handle it with a minimum amount of care its got less odds of wrinkling than neoprene. They can be a bit slippery but in dozens of games run on my mats it's never been all that large of an issue
>>
>>96825317
There's a super glue with rubber in it. It rules
>>
>>96822792
>quick-n-dirty hobbit holes
Me and the boys on our way to the Shire to find some halfling girls
>>
>>96826122
Fabric is pretty nice. It can be slippery but you can use whatever you'd normally use to tie a tablecloth down with them, and once you put terrain down it's fine.

The real big advantage of cloth is that it can go on any size table. Those oversize ones from cigar box battle can go on anything. No need for different mats for different tables or games.
>>
>>96827535
Then you stuck all that on a base? Thanks for remembering the method 12 years later, as I thought your method has a real classic feel to it.
>>
>>96783923
Looks like my lawn a week ago, so not really?
>>
>>96750433
Do you mean the semi trailer one?
If so, I did have a quick look when I was in store today and I think it may be a little on the small side. Like smaller enough that if you held a Guardsmen miniature (aka, a "regular human") next to the door, it'd probably look kinda small... but not too small that it would be glaringly obvious if you didn't go looking intensely at it.
But also, I'm pretty sure most (if not all) 40k vehicles are scaled too small anyway, so it probably wouldn't matter too much unless you're anal about it.
>>
>>96827850
That looks like a very fun table to play on. Great minis too! Did you buy the faux fur mat in green? Or did you need to dye it?
>>
>>96697753
the AI for OP's post is garbage. Use actual terrain next time
>>
>>96834714
no it was originally brown, which is probably the ideal base color for this kind of mat. I colored it by squirting green paint onto the mat and then working it into the furs with a pet fur brush. you need to repeatedly comb the paint into the fur until its almost dry to prevent the paint from clumping the fur together. its a very long process. 1 mat took 8 hours, but half of that time was trimming the furs down with a razor to the right height. If you're able to find a faux fur mat with maybe 1 inch high fur that would save you a lot of time.
>>
I have a few cardboard boxes that would make ideal houses, but idk how to paint them. They are white, should I just spray with grey primer for concrete effect? Idk if rougher paints that I use for XPS wont ruin them.
>>
>>96704257
>everything is fascism
You are the JoJo fags of political discussion.
>>
>>96783923
Add more to the base of the head if you want to express heavier leaf buildup (would could excuse have what you have on the face), or take 3-5 leaves off the face, since the natural elements would have blown them off if there isn't heavy buildup.
>>
Whats everyones favorite texture paint/method, I've been using one type for a while and want to change it up.
>>
>>96836646
Cardboard is really sturdy, it'll take pretty much everything. Back in art school we'd even use it for oil painting with zero issues. If you fear that it might get weak or something, a coat of thin pva or mod podge should seal it and make it less absorbent.
>>
>>96835404
How big is your matt and how easy/well does it transport/store?
>>
>>96841649
the fabric is sold in 5 feet width and 3 feet increments in length. I got 3 5x9 mats. stores quite easily. obviously takes more horizontal real estate but when you fold it up its about the size of a standard size pillow. I think it stores better than a roll up mat because I can put em on the upper shelf of my closet. also find it very easy to transport, you're basically lugging around a pillow sized fold of thick fabric. while youre carrying a box of minis or terrain into the LGS just stack it on top of the box and you're good. can't do that with a roll up mat.
>>
>>96842773
I might do this during winter while it's too wet/cold to prime outside.
>>
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heres the mat folded up next to a pillow for scale. a bit higher than the pillow but a much smaller horizontal footprint
>>
>>96842878
>>96842931
and don't know if you're in America and no clue if this item is available outside of america but this is the exact fur I used. it'd be much more preferable to try to find a 1inch high fur mat but this one was the best brown fur mat I could find. also when you use a light brown as a base it'll darken up any green paint you apply to it so stick to using lighter greens and olives. I tried dark green on a test swatch and it looked awful.

I wrote a guide on my now defunct blog
https://kayswargamingblog.blogspot.com/2023/07/the-sound-and-furry.html
>>
>>96842967
forgot the link to the fur fabric

https://www.amazon.com/FabricLA-Shaggy-Fabric-Light-Brown/dp/B097SX9YTC
>>
>>96842967
>>96842973
Thanks mate. This will make a great winter project for me.
>>
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>>96781697
>Try the Christmas tree decorations they sell at Woolworth's.

How to say you've not been outside in 16 years without saying you've not been outside in 16 years.
>>
>>96843238
Australia and a few other places (South Africa?) still have a Woolies.
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>>96843253
Feel somewhat betrayed they abandoned the home islands now.
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>>96700121
That looks really nice, well done
Just don't eat anything around it that creates crumbs, they'll never, EVER come out
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>>96822792
I think I didn't sand the surface down enough before starting the flocking and it'll just slide down smoothly tomorrow
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>>96843238
>>96843253
>>96843261

Ausfag, our Woolies is a supermarket, not department store
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I might be retarded, but how do you actually arrange terrain pieces on your table to look good? I have plenty of pieces, both scratchbuilt and plastic kits but they always look unsatisfying to me
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>>96847998
It depends on the game, I usually try and figure out what our guys are doing, then make it sort of fit.
Warcry I normally just pull a random card and if the scenario doesn't suit it, rearrange the terrain.
Necromunda I use my method, so if we're in a warehouse, make a shape like a warehouse, lots of scatter terrain rather than big pieces etc.
Big war games I just spread out enough to make the table look interesting and force some choices like LoS blocking or movement blocking/affecting
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What do you guys recommend for flattening out a creased neoprene game mat? Mantic mats come folded in a box and the one I bought had pretty firm creases that haven't come out in a month of laying flat, leaving rolled, or pressing with weights.
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What the hell is a woolies?
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>>96848298
In Australia it's a supermarket chain
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>>96848285
I've never done it but I think you can iron them. I won't take responsibility for any damage though so maybe try looking for examples of other people ironing them.
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>>96697769
Best trick I've seen is drawing more or less a cobweb in a round xps, then cut the pieces, and you assemble the cobweb again, but each outside ring layer is slightly tilted towards the flat center and raised
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PeRfect thead to ask:
I want to make some snow for my bases and also to sprinkle on minis like they are in a blizzard
What's the best way to make snow, anons?
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>>96849966
Honestly for minis (where cost isnt an issue) Id probably just buy it these days rather than try make it with baking soda or anything, im a big fan of AKs snow effects. If youre looking for thick fresh snow id go with Ak snow balloons, for slushier stuff id use snow effects
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>>96849966
I used baking soda and PVA for mine but it flakes off so I agree with the other anon. Just buy a jar of AK snow.
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Current project: cardboard ruins
Paid 2€ for the foamboard at Woolies. The rest is card, PVA, toilet paper, sand and craft paint. Going to add some Temu tufts and flock tomorrow when it‘s all dry.
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>>96859790
What's that disgusting texture on the walls? I wanna do some as alien fungus.
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>>96859853
Toilet paper soaked with PVA
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>>96860823
How's the durability on that?
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>>96861025
Durability?
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>>96861055
Tissue paper dipped in PVA glue. How easy does it tear?
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>>96842967
Oh, I followed your blood when making mine. Small world huh. If you're in the US I got faux fur from these guys at acceptable rates. Like 85 buxs for a 6' x 4' plus some cheap home depot sample pots for paint. The biggest problem is storing this thing
https://www.howlfabrics.com/product-page/sienna-brown-luxury-teddy-faux-fur
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>>96861674
You can probably honk your nose in it a few times at least.
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>>96706554
Frostgrave has an entire dungeon-fighting supplement, and you'd be surprised how much just having modeled interiors changes a lot of small-scale skirmish games.
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>>96861025
You can add more layers to make it a little sturdier but it's basically papermache. I wouldn't expect the pieces to survive me moving house but they are good enough for regular play. Helps that they cost next to nothing to make.
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>>96842967
Gorgeous terrain and map anon am taking notes fr
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>>96745130
>any ideas where to get little machines for the little workers?
Look for N-scale and 1:150 sets. They're both relatively cheap and widely-available. Some of the really large construction machines in Matchbox and Hot Wheels lines are in 10-12mm scale as well, like dump trucks. Likewise any terrain made for Heavy Gear, CAV, or Dropzone Commander will be in nominal scale with 1:144 Gundam stuff. There's a nice set of cardboard buildings and street tiles up on the TTCombat site, with printable versions hidden in the downloads section.
That said Bandai notoriously inflates the size of Gundams, and as long as you keep things consistent they'll look good with 1:100 (~15mm) terrain and vehicles

>>96765125
Putting a base under foam terrain will help preserve it long-term (it keeps the edges from chipping and weighs down the terrain so it doesn't skid around on the table). Gluing dark felt on the bottom of your bases will also make it slide less and looks better than big empty sheets of mdf. Putting it on little shelves or racks in your storage bins and padding it a bit will help too. This doesn't have to be anything fancy: I use a couple big sheets of foamcore supported on taped-up wads of leftover bubblewrap.

>>96781697
Just flocking those in a couple different colors and adding a little basing makes them look a LOT better. I did it by tying a string to the trunk, hitting them with flat green camo spraypaint to get a slightly darker tone, then rolling them in a bowl of lightly-thinned PVA and a tray of tossed multi-colored flock and leftover static grass. It's basically just breading the trees, remember to keep your wet-hand, dry-hand discipline and it'll be a lot less messy. An apron helps too.
Hang them to dry over a couple sheets of newsprint in a baking tray so they don't drip on the counter, PVA is a motherfucker to clean up. A quick drybrush in patches with orange (for dead needles) and a slightly paler yellow-green makes them pop even more.
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>>96826122
Vinyl wrinkles like a bastard, tends to take a set, and it's very stiff so jostling an overhanging edge can launch models off it. Your best bet is to clamp it to the table, and store it wrapped around a large tube or hung on the wall in a closet. The main advantage of vinyl is that you can get it pre-printed with hexes and other grids, but companies like Litko sell spray stencils for putting all sorts of grids on cloth and boards.
Fabric's a lot easier, especially heavy stuff like rubberized canvas duck, the ol' Teddy bear fur, or thick felt. It has the added advantage that you can stuff hills underneath and they'll look a lot more natural. A felt mat will grip any terrain you put on it, cushion the edges of scatter, and you can get "heathered" felt that has multiple colors of fiber. Looks way better than single-color. Disadvantage is that felt tears relatively easily, cats like to tear it up, and it stretches over time. By FAR your cheapest option, also the easiest and looks acceptable out of the box.
Canvas is harder-wearing, it just takes a lot more work to make it look decent. Printed fleece is ASS and you shouldn't buy it. Printed cotton or canvas is fine. You still need to clamp the edges, though.
Bearfur is a motherfucker to prepare but it's basically bulletproof from then on. You can even shave roads and rivers into it.
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>>96870497
>PVA is a motherfucker to clean up
?
It's water soluble and peels off most flat surfaces when dry. Like don't get it in your carpet but they give it to kids for a reason.
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>>96870556
On hard countertops, yes. On scratched ones, cutting boards, cats, wooden utensils, the wife's sleeve, etc, especially when it has bits of static grass embedded, it's a giant pain in the ass.
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bump
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Some nice soulless L shaped ruins
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we're getting there
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>>96877481
You're not doing this at work are you? Scandalous
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This thread is the good shit.



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