Can we get some more prints up in here please. The only good quality picture was of print I did months ago. I had to go back to the previous thread (which I fucked up the link to last thread and have fixed above) to find someone elses print to showcase.

Also sending out a request for any tech nerd who wants to update the printer guide.

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Finally getting around to painting my kroot army box, and printed up some scans that let me use leftover bits in a very satisfying manner.

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>>97032089

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>>97032089
These are painted, but everything in this picture I printed this week.

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Anyone have this STL? idk where it's from looks cool.

>97032427
>Gemini_Generated_Image
no (You) for you Randeep

>>97032431
:(

I know this isn't /slop/ but I'm going to feed these through the 3d model AI someone posted a few threads ago and see what happens. Beats getting a Hero Forge subscription for specific characters.

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>>97032089
I fucked up during slicing and so the feet came out all fucked up and didn't print. Still the person who it was for didn't care and loved it (they knew about the feet before I started to paint it)

>>97032427
>>97032431
shame, that looks like it would make for a cool daemon prince with a bit more armor or a generic boss NPC

>>97032075
hnnng i want to paint ONE terminator before I commit to printing a bunch but the only scan I can find is kind of chonky and bumpy looking.

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>>97032089
also here's one I printed and painted for somebody who plays a goliath in their DnD game.

>>97032169
those came out nice. Good luck

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Puck the adventurer I just took off my new printer with the cones of calibration behind. Clear resin is pretty hard to look at so I intend to give it a prime tomorrow.

Just ordered a Centauri Carbon for 285€. (I've wrote about it last thread)
What additional stuff do i need?
So far my list is:
1-2 rolls of PLA from Amazon
Sunlu dryer S2 box (is it even needed for casual PLA printing?)

Are there other essentials needed to print some first pieces of terrain?

>>97033073
>dryer box
Depends on how much you are printing. If you are using just one color and using that up pretty quickly then no.
>other things
Hairspray, cant recommend it strongly enough. More convenient than a glue stick and works just as well if not better.

>>97032169
>>97032215
>>97032544
based
>the rest
embarrassing and in the wrong general

>>97033073
if you have a dehydrator already just use it

>>97033678
>If you are using just one color and using that up pretty quickly then no.

Ok, so moisture is more a problem if the PLA is stored for a while?

>Hairspray

should be in the bathroom somewhere anyway.

>>97033820
Yes, I only start having issues once I have had it for a month or so. As the other anon says, if you have it you might as well use it though.

>>97032410
hi adrian long time no see what's going on toytranny?

>>97033983
Swing and a miss

>>97033968
thanks. I guess the first 1-2 rolls will be gone pretty fast, and then i can still buy such a box, when the initial hype has cooled off a bit

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>>97032089
Printed a few months ago but I don't remember if I shared it here or in /wip/. Bestiarum giant and a Lost Kingdoms marauder for scale.

>>97034115
we both know thats not true printcoomer

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Finally printed out the Rhino I wanted custom doors on. Thanks again to the anon that recommended the meshmix software. Got my immortals standing on it but its more likely to go to the tactical behind them
>>97032089
My immortals and I have come to the fair and equitable conclusion that you are a faggot

>>97032410
>They hated Jesus because he told them the truth

>>97033729
You're not supposed to drink the resin though

>samefagging your own shitpost
embarrassing

>lychee used to be able to read stls from inside archives fine
>now it can't
People pay for this?

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>>97032089

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>>97038202

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Started printing a Ghostkeel, but I'm avoiding it and forcing myself to finish my admech project before having a go.

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>>97038221

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>>97038226

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>>97038236

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>>97038244

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>>97038253

>>97038202
>>97038221
>>97038226
>>97038236
>>97038244
>>97038253
>>97038269
Are these Highlands or someone else's?
They looks super nice I want to print them.

>>97038526
the ones with animal helms are Highlands Gallia Knights, the bucking one and the one with the sallet style helm are Last Sword Reichguard Knights on Horses and the ones on foot are Order of the Flaming Lys by Heresy Lab

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>>97036573
Sir another immortal has hit the Deimos Towers
I printed out another, hopefully I wont need any more. Now to make some land raiders, or maybe a spartan.
Also in building these two rhino's, I built one AFTER curing and one BEFORE curing and the before one was way easier so now I ask you guys. Was I suppose to be building them before curing?

>>97038777
uncured prints are more flexible so it makes sense it was easier to put together uncured. i don't think that's common though. i always cure all my parts before i build something
you're also trapping a little bit of resin when you smush the parts together uncured. when you cure it after, the places where the pieces join will be harder for the uv to reach

>>97038777
IIRC curing can cause some shrinkage/warping. Which is why we're supposed to read our exposure test prints before curing for example. So while I haven't thought about build order for these things before, you may be on to something here.

>>97039103
>you're also trapping a little bit of resin when you smush the parts together uncured.
While those bits won't be as fully cured as the outer surface, they also won't be any less cured than the inside of the parts themselves. So as long as it doesn't cause glue adhesion issues I can't really see what could go wrong for him.

Yes Lychee, thank you for crashing just as I finish supporting a model. Very good.

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>>97038222
Good taste, anon

>>97032075
I have a resin printer, but am also looking for a filament printer. Resin for the small figures, filament for terrain and the like.

What are some good filament printers that you guys recommend?

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Just printed a savage orc (black orc) blood bowl team, along with varag and bomber. Think they all came out pretty great.

You guys think black, dark grey, or white for primer? I'm thinking dark grey, would usually be white since it's a lot of skin and bone but I get nervous with the chalkiness you can get from white sometimes.

Would it be better to ask on here or /3/ for making proont-compatible models, I've ALMOST got the hang of it but need to figure out how to cleanly join shit together in blender without making a mess of erroneous faces.

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printed them today

>>97032075
Anybody know where I can get a saturn S vat? Movers dropped box and mine got cracked and bent but it seems like the main official channels aren't selling them anymore

>>97038777
>>97036573
the rhinos look good. are vehicles difficult to print?
i already need a printer for bits.

>>97042772
ebay is where I've found some people selling old stock for discontinued 3d printers

Anyone know a good way to report a guy using your designs for paid files on cults? I would be cool if the guy made them free, but paid is just dirty

>>97040695
It's worth running whatever the final design is through Microsoft's 3d builder to check for issues that blender won't pick up that make it unable to print, it's strangely the best tool I've found for it

>>97040646
I do a black prime and then white on top to simulate light, but I only use contrast/speed paints so idk.

I don't mean to beg but does anybody have recs or links to proxy terrain for AoS spearhead? I don't even need official stuff, just something free that doesn't look horrible and is the appropriate size

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-orc-tracker-battle-platform-679779

Are puppetswar STL's good enough to be worth buying?

>>97044557
Sure, if you like their designs and sculpting style.

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>>97044099
"Terrain essentials" got some neat modular walls and clutter to use for the Fire&Jade terrain pieces. You can also find them on the gram, you might need to resize them slightly.
The sizes are roughly:
Small terrain are 8x3cm pill-shaped
Walls are 1~1.5cm thick, 7cm tall, long part is 15.5cm and short part is 4.5cm

>>97032410
>[Cultured] Human lung cells had no difference in morphology or survival after exposure, though exhibited altered protein expression surrounding multiple protein synthesis pathways. Dysregulation in these pathways has been previously linked to cancer and neurological disorders.
>This thesis concludes that VOC exposure from resin 3D printers may have health risks which are non-negligible and should be explored further.

>>of the six varieties tested in the below study the average TVOC was about 586 µg/m3

Here's a contrary study
>During printing, the mean TVOC concentration was recorded at 1052.71µg/m3, and the post-processing cure and ethanol wash emitted a mean TVOC of 1774.15µg/m3

>>Anyone who says otherwise is a retard, AIDS case, or some combination of both.
You're just lying and engaging in dumbfuckery of the "we don't know it's dangerous therefore it's safe" variety, even though the freely available evidence says
>Emission levels from printers are known to some degree but exposure levels are not
>Many of these substances are known to be dangerous to human health
>Caution required
>Further research needed

>>Unless you are looking at an actual study with data you are getting people's opinion, often based entirely off of other people's opinion.
I was looking at multiple studies.

You're the equivalent of tobacco companies knowing for decades that smoking caused cancer and cardiovascular disease but still insisting that smoking was a healthy pastime. What's more you're busy quoting irrelevant emission levels but I'll repeat that
>Emission levels from printers are known to some degree but exposure to pollutants from desktop resin printers is not known
Exposure is key.

You even had the gall to write
>>Unless you are looking at an actual study with data you are getting people's opinion, often based entirely off of other people's opinion
when what you're offering is nothing more than an opinion and a fucking stupid wrong one at that.

>>97044779
just ignore and report for trolling. there's a reason his post was deleted.

>>97044779
how does resin printing compare to plastic 3d printing?

>>97045403
Resin is also plastic. Now as for filament printers how nasty they are depends both on the exactly plastic used to print with, and whatever additives have been thrown in. I would guess that most of them aren't as perky as we have it over on the resin side, but don't assume the lot of them are completely harmless either.

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>>97042883
>the rhinos look good. are vehicles difficult to print?
depends on how detailed you want part. An FDM printer is really easy to set up for vehicles and even titans, a resin printer will have sharper detail, but odds are you're gonna have way more assembly, but it will be way smoother and not as much need for filler primer. Depends on your preference, but either way, yes vehicles are as easy as anything else, it just depends on your patience and how much work you are willing to put into it. pic related, a WIP knight i haven't touched in weeks, but its resin.

>>97038036
i still use the free software and it works just fine

>>97046144
cool beans. for my first printer, the main purpose would be bits for flavor and stuff, but it's good to know that there isn't anything particularly difficult about resin vehicles.
i checked the OP "buying" pastebin, and it hasn't been updated in two years lmao

Hey folks, not too sure if its proper to ask this in here or not but is there anywhere that I can find a repository of files that have been taken down from places like cults? Needing a few things for my heresy army and unfortunately ive learned a lot of the files I had my eye on have been taken down

Why can I find GW clones on cults 3D?

Seems like the printer buying guide is about 2 years out of date after I checked it.

I'm looking for something to print mostly 15mm tanks for WW2 and 28mm fantasy. I've dug around and and right now there seems to be a decent deal on the Elegoo Ultra 16k. Its got a heated tank, and apparently easy to use air purifier for it (I don't have space to put it in an unoccupied room).

Does anyone have experience with this model and can vouch for it? If not, what alternatives do you guys suggest? I'm not sure what the sweet spot is on resolution to get good results. The Mars 5 Ultra is $160 cheaper but its got a 9k resolution. How much difference in detail is there between the two?

>>97047088
Air purifiers don't help
What you need is a grow tent enclosure and ducting to vent the tent out a window
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRwxBNV3Ssc

>>97047789
Venting isn't feasible with my location, at least during the colder months. If I can't get an air filter setup that works I'd probably have to scrap the idea until I move.

>>97047088
>Elegoo Ultra 16k
You’re missing mascot of the printer's name there, Saturn 4, but luckily Elegoo only has one 16K printer... Anyway, I have one, it works.

>I'm not sure what the sweet spot is on resolution to get good results. The Mars 5 Ultra is $160 cheaper but its got a 9k resolution.
See >>97013495 but overall shit's hit the point of harshly diminishing returns. I got the 16K instead of the "regular" Saturn 4 Ultra with the 12K screen because of the vat heater, not the resolution.

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>>97047900
No you need to have a window connector like this.
You can't just leave the window open because the fumes will still accumulate.
If you don't have any space which you could do this in then I'd recommend reconsidering getting a printer for the time being.

>>97047971
Thats the issue, it would be in a basement, which only has a sliding door to a patio (home is built into a hill). There's no window, only the glass sliding door.

>>97047971
NTA but if I can do exactly that, but it'd sit on my living room and not a dedicated space for just the printer, would it still be safe?

>>97048132
A: no one fucking knows just how dangerous resin printing is, and what exactly it takes to make it safe.
B: it isn't just the printing itself, it's the cleaning, curing, drips and spills...

Oh, and also keep in mind that you want to be able to make sure there's no sunlight getting in while you have the printer's lid open, are handling on-cleaned prints, and so on.

feels like reddit up in here

>>97047971
Depending on volume, if you set an air filter/purifier next to your wash station (outgassing predominantly focuses around washing and curing stations) you will generally eliminate most problematic VOCs with it running full blast.

Most hobbyists will not pump out VOCs through their mini making to really threaten their air space.

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Eldar test print primed. It's got some pretty bad support scarring on the back I need to solve but at least I've got somewhere to start now.

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>>97050850

Anyone printed agathia warforge stuff? What should I expect?

>>97050850
Can you show that mini after you paint it? I want to see if that layering on the shoulder pad is noticeable after painting.

>>97056135
If it's visible after priming, it will be visible after painting too. (Let's assume anon is thinning his paints in a normal fashion)

Anyone got recommends for beginner FDM printers now that Black Friday has rolled around? I have a resin printer but I want an FDM one to do buildings and terrain is more cost effective. But because I want to do buildings I need a good build volume relative to price

>>97056464
Bambulab A1 (mini if you are unsure)

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I don't know much about 3D printers and I have a bit of a weirder use case that I'd like to ask your help with, if possible. I'd like to print terrain, natural scenery and some vehicle models in colour and at the absolute smallest scales possible. I see that most of you guys are doing 40k stuff where painting is part of the fun, but I really need colour printing for this.
How small can I go, how much detail will I lose and what are my options for printing technologies and printers at those different scales?
I understand that for colour you can only get multi-color set-ups at any decent prices and anything else is insanely expensive, is that true?
What do you think of UV printers? I understand that they can only print at a height of only about 3mm from their bases so they might not be useful for all I want to do, but they seem very interesting.
Could I find printing farms that would help me with something like this?
Should I try machined metal? That seems like it'd be way more expensive and won't have any color.

Sup guys. Anyone know of any good Firstborn biker clones? Not looking for the OG kit, I got a bunch of em in plastic and I just don’t like the way they look. A bit too 2e compared to the rest of my mostly 4e-6e marine sculpts.

>>97040328
Ive had a neptune 4 for just over a year and its still going strong, I typically dont print entire pieces but it has been a godsend for printing greebles and doodads that would be a massive pain in the ass to scratchbuild

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>>97032089
Just printed these today.
Bugbears and peasants.

Trying my first major print at .03 layer hight today. I did some layer testing on my old photon mono 4k and didn't really notice any difference. But I did a small test on my new Saturn 3 12k and now it seems noticeable. Lets hope this batch of dwarfs comes out ok.

>>97059376
I always like commoners. Are they from a set?

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What model is considered to be the best budget option for filament printing nowadays? I have 300EUR to spend on a printer, consumables have their own separate budget.

>>97045349
Yes: trannyjannies getting triggered by his overuse of AIDS as an insult. His core assertion - that resin presents a similar level of danger to health as any number of other things that people unthinkingly and largely without issue treat as mundane every day of their lives and so throwing massive sperging shitfits if someone DARES to 3d print without full Nuclear Containment Team-tier HAZMAT suits with bottled air is fucking retarded - remains absolutely, unequivocally, unchallengably correct.

You drive to work every day and suck in lungfuls of PM2.5, PM10, NO2, Methane, and a bunch of other nasty shit: do you wear a respirator when you're in a traffic jam? You pearl-clutching faggots are exactly like those retards who chuck a massive hissy if someone rides a bicycle without a helmet, despite the fact that statistically you're more likely - per distance travelled - to get a head injury showering, climbing stairs, walking down a street, or driving a fucking car. The point of comparison is not to claim all of those things are hideously dangerous, it's to point out how ridiculous your obsession with the supposed danger of this one specific thing is.

>>97063195
Go ask the /diy/ general

>>97063246
>Samefagging

>>97063195
A1 Mini

>>97062918
A Witcher Contract Vol3

>print failed
>check printer
>Exposure screen time at 76861433622673:40:19

hmmmmmmm

>>97065225
Well, incense and incantation time I guess. Or be glad it's almost Black Friday.

>>97063246
fuck off printcoomer aka toytranny aka adrian. you're not welcome here and never have been you toxic cunt. you dont even own a printer you just buy prints or kits from your ancestral homeland which you paint with all the skill of an eight year old with down syndrome. remember when you claimed to have bought a jewelry scanner but in reality you just got some anime stls and used software to write shit on them. i remember and its still fucking funny how much of a dumb faggot you exposed yourself to be.

>>97068607
Woah dude
https://youtu.be/qQ6wSei-NJU?t=60

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I'm printing the rest of the macharius now.

>>97042163
I prefer the scans myself, but tinylegend's designs are undoubtedly very good

>>97046942
they're on telegram

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>>97050850
she's THICK

>>97068709
FDM?

>>97063195
I love my Kobra 3 combo. Even if you only print in one color it helps by swapping from an empty roll to another mid print.
Saw some people on reddit saying that you can get it on ali express for 215 for black friday

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Made the spartan I was talking about >>>97038777
Its made me lose my mind, the guy who designed this thing must be some kind of retard. Spent hours sanding down his mistake so the top part can fit on the rest. Also magnetized the guns on the side.
This whole tank drained me of the last of my resin so il have to pause the printing process while I wait for Sunlu to ship me my damn order. Thanks for reading my blog

>>97070658
I really want to take the plunge on printing a tank but I'm still too nervous to.

>>97075011
Why? What's wrong you?

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How would a posh pirate skaven talk?

>>97075817
> Arrr, skeet skeet bruv! A jolly good time

>>97064262
If I'm willing to make my budget 400eur, should I go with P1S instead?

>>97075794
I'm still timid about printing stuff, especially something big, due to low experience.

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I tried printing the mage and blightking character from the Wurmspat warband to use them in my Nurgle army.

As you can see, the body at the top stopped printing halfway while the rest seems to have finished printing fine. Currently curing.
I’m no expert but I’m pretty sure it because all of the pieces were attached at the bottom. When I took the print off the plate it was already starting to peel off from the pressure. Im guessing it got removed a little bit off the plate and didn’t finish printing. I’m going to try printing the body individually or at least give it plenty of room on the plate next time.
My fault for trying to cram it all in one print.


Also, how do I know how many supports certain shapes need and what angle to tilt them at? I tend to tilt most things at a diagonal angle and use auto supports on Chitubox. But what’s the rule of thumb or technique to supporting your stuff properly?

>>97076746
From my experience that stopped printing stems from delamination because of not right curing times, maybe because of temperature.

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>>97039509
Update: he has gundam arms now because I'm creatively bankrupt and still copying an instagram post.

>>97076210
This spartan and the two rhinos I made before were my first ever prints. Making vehicles will probably teach you all you need to know. Learnt how to mesh stl's, to orient and support properly, to drill holes in the stl to let resin leak out.
I would heavily recommend making one just to get the experience/knowledge of making one.

Any anons here with serviceable skills in Blender for modifying STLs?

I want to modify a head STL.
Basically it is a 28mm miniature's head with ears and a gas mask. I realized that if I remove the ears and paint the head behind the gas mask black it creates a balaclava effect.

So how would one go about efficiently removing the ears from the head in Blender and then patching up the removed vertices?

>>97077220
should be easy enough by deleting the ears in sculpt mode and working a bit on the mesh to fix any meshy edges. No need to remove vertices and filling in holes, but even that should be easy if you know what you're doing

I keep printing FDM prints that have tiny parts that are supposed to fit together into slots, and they are never printing in a way that they actually are able to fit, with the male part always being to big to fit in the female hole.

I'm printing at 2mm, do I need to print at 1.2mm or something? Or are the parts warping? I have the bed temp at 60C, do I need to lower it or something?

I'm using the same filament and I'm printing at the pieces at the same time, so I'm not sure why this continually happens on every print that's supposed to conjoin after printing.

>>97077220
someone recommended me:
baalvision
on discord, but I chickened out because I wanted turbo smut edits

>>97078056
do I have to ask if you've printed some mandatory calibrations test first?

>>97078056
I hope you mean 0.2mm layers, those should not be a problem unless you print with a 0.2mm nozzle or something huge like a 0.8 nozzle.

First I would print a 2cm cube, but without infill, without top layers and with a wall thickness of 1. Afterwards you measure if that wall is the thickness of your nozzle or thicker. If it is thicker that means your nozzle is at fault, or way more likely you are pushing too much material through and need to reduce flow.

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I've bought a 3D fdm printer about 2 weeks ago began printing battlefleet gothic minis during the night, this is the imperial fleet for now, printed with a 0.4mm nozzle, considering I have no idea of what I'm doing, neither as a 3D printer nor as a painter I think it's a fairly decent result.

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I've also now begun producing chaos ships so that I can then find someone to play with, these are being printed with a 0.2 nozzle since they have much smaller detail but they are coming out pretty good, I also want to print a battleship for each faction after I'm done with the core of the fleet but I haven't really found a satisfying .stl for either the imperium or chaos that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, anyone has any resource to recommend for them?

>>97078545
this is peak use of a printed, good job, and welcome

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>
>print skragrott scan last night
>check printer this morning
>base and body missing from plate
>"aw shit they must have failed to print
>feel around bottom of basin for the scraps
>feel something hard
>"must be the base stuck down there"
>try to scrape them from the bottom of the basin
>stuck on really good
>end up punching a tiny hole in the film
>unscrew basing and lift it to check
>resin dripping down my printer


I'm guessing you don't need to buy a hole new basin right? Just a new film sheet. I'm using a Mars 4 ultra with factory stock parts. Would amazon be a good place to get new sheets and what's a good price/reliable and compatible brand of film sheets?
Also will I need any special tools or chemicals to remove the old film broken film sheet?

>>97077170
okay, I'm still a print-let and I use default settings for my machine and slicer. It's a Mars 4 ultra. I have never had any issues before but I think I figured out what the problem was today...

>>97080837
The vat comes apart and the sheet just comes out. Any FEP sheet large enough will work. You just clamp the new sheet in the gasket, cut off the excess, and reinstall. They're less than a buck on amazon. Look at elegoo's official fep sheets on their site for instructions on installing. Get yourself a bottle funnel from elegoo while you're at it. 7 bucks for a metal funnel with a metal filter.

>>97080837
Fuck, also. Run the clean cycle with thr vat still in place when you get a failed print with shit stuck to the fep. The extra layer of resin will help peel everything up in one solid piece. Dump your vat after and get any left over dingleberries out of there.

>>97080837
You dont scrape your fep like ever. You add some leftover supports and run the tank clean. This lets you pull on the support to lift off the entire bottom layer, including the failure without damaging anything. Agitating the resin also makes the bits you can't see no longer settled on the bottom.

>>97080861
Personally I dont even bother dumping it out after. The vat clean tends to fix the issue.
>>97080837
1 little neat trick is to get a support with a decent base and stick it in the vat and press down while you do the vat clean. Then after just lift it up and its all comes off together so no scraping needed.

>>97080873
I pull and dump with every failure to inspect the fep. Theres a chance every time that you've punched a pinhole in it and its good to catch that before your next print.

>>97080853
okay that sounds simple enough. thanks

>>97080869
>>97080861
I didn't even know there was a cleaning mode for the printer. I though you just had to clean it yourself and learn the hard way to be more careful next time. thanks for that

>add leftover supports
you guys keep supports? I would always throw them out after I washed and cured everything. Is it standard practice to keep a little bag of leftover supports for this?

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did some digital kitbashing of some oldhammer scans last night for some Kev Adams squig hoppers. Used the spider rider bodies, night goblin heads and normal cave squigs. (left most is an OG hopper) I love living in the future

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Came across a scan of the old Mordheim free-lancer knight on telegram. It's one of my favorite sculpts of all time, couldn't find his shield or the mounted version though, does anyone have them?

>>97080888
Just feel around the vat with your turkey baster for punctures.
Emptying the vat every failure sounds extremely tedious and time consuming.

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Does anyone know some models that I can are inspired or straight out 3rd party Targeryan soldier that I can use?

>>97082480
What the fuck did i wrote
I mean models inspired by or straight out 3rd party copies of Targaryen soldiers

>>97076199
Maybe. The mini is great, but very small for an FDM machine. If you ever want to print some terrain or board game inserts, you'll quickly hit the limits of your build area and have to fuck around with slicing things up and glueing them back together after.

Local 3D printer shop (apparently the only one in my small country) has two resin printers currently in stock: Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra (153x78x165mm plate) and Creality Halot R6 (130x82x160mm plate)

The Elegoo is twice as expensive, is it twice as good as the Halot for Warhammer purposes?
Am I better off waiting for them to restock one of the fancier printers that youtubers keep hawking at me, such as the Saturn 4?

>>97032075
Is there a specific site you guys use to get pictures of miis you want to AI scan?

>>97084916
https://www.deathandhell.com/contents_deathIE.html

>>97077206
Hmm maybe I will just give it a shot. But it does occur to me thinking about it now that the container and ultrasonic cleaner I've been using to clean prints would not fit long tank parts in them so I'll need to get a larger container.

>>97084780
Yeah unironically the Mars 5 ultra is more than twice as good, it's not even fucking close
If you're on a budget then the Mars 5 Ultra will do everything you want and you will love it but for large models it may be more difficult

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I need a hero (somehow didn’t fail)

>>97086684

Thank you anon

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Some magos , customisation on these kits is insane

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>got my friend to print out a hive tyrant like pic related
>realize that the only contact point to the base will be the tail
do I have to worry about it snapping under its own weight?
I'm pretty sure he just uses the standard anycubic resin

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>>97056780
not an option right now. At smaller scales, you would want to use resin for better details and that is only single color. A multi-color FDM is not going to look good at small scales. What are you building?

>>97078545
looks great. Try adaptive layer height on the bases to get rid of some of the stepping. smol zeta-class unrelated.

>>97088475
>Try adaptive layer height on the bases to get rid of some of the stepping.
I will, but so far I've purposely printed the bases "badly" I just use a large nozzle and lower quality to print them faster since it's not a big deal if they have lines, I haven't even used the ironing option on them.

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dog i printed some months ago

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>buying guide hasn't been updated for 2 years
What's good, niggas?
literally, what's a decent starter printer for bits/champion sized miniatures? it's black friday sales time

>>97087240
What kits are those?

>>97088931
elegoo. i recommend saturn 4 ultra/ultra 16k. i own a s4u and it worked out of the box and has worked perfectly since. some people say s4u has problems with print bed leveling or adhesion and say get the s3u instead, i have had none of these problems myself and the s3u lcds will be impossible to replace sooner than later

>>97088404
naw, even standard resin is not that flimsy. shit would have to weigh like 10+ lbs for that to snap under its own weight

>>97089794
nice, thanks anon.
i will look into this a one bit more.

>>97089794
>>97090247
I also own a s4u and I have had issues with adhesion and leveling but I just increased the number of bottom layers to 10 and it solved all my issues. Is there a little bit of warping? Maybe. But I don't print anything where precision like that would matter.

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The basic chaos fleet is almost done printing + did a ordnance test with the bombers/fighters, they came out better than expected, though they are weak as shit and tend to break from the bases easily even while just cleaning up the models from mold lines and supports, at least they are easily fixed by glue, all printed on 0.2mm nozzle.

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>>97091088
1st cruise just finished painting, I think the details are fairly good overall and a decent experiment, I'm happy about it and desu I haven't had this much fun doing modelling in probably 10 years.

Does anyone have any good supportless mini creator recommendations? For FDM rather than resin. (I have both kinds, but I like printing larger creatures and terrain with FDM)

I like RocketPigGame's stuff but it's been hit or miss on if it's actually support free or if I get failures.

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>>97047789
>>97047971
damn... was going to ask if I would be OK to put a resin printer in my bedroom as long as I put it in a grow tent and vented out a window... but I had no idea resin had VOC's. I knew it was toxic and probably smelled awful but I didn't know the the fumes were toxic too. Maybe I'll rent a small garage space in my apartment complex and print in there... Or in my laundry closet... run an extension coord or something. Heck.

>>97089130
James monitors these threads but it’s pretty easy to search ‘magos’ on purple site and it’s the one with a billion options

>>97081487
No such animal. He never had a shield.

>>97089794
>>97090641
I had some problems with sunlu abs like and lower temps, but after I upgraded to the S4U they went away. The bad leveling stems probably from people not finding the option to manually calibrate in the printer.

>>97081487
It looks really nice for a scan. If you have pictures of what you're looking for, maybe we can process it with AI scanning.

>>97092307
>James monitors these threads
Now, that explain the weird replies I've been getting.

>>97091872
You can do that but you also have to build essentially a small temprature and humidity chamber too.

Just frame up something portable the size of a small closet, put some rigid insulation foam, a space heater, and a small A/C unit - both with temprature kill switches. Pretty easy desu

>>97091088
>>97091097
That looks well printed.
The ordnance really is small. I guess it would make more sense to print the base and ships seperatly and use a metal pin to connect them both.

>>97092884
>The bad leveling stems probably from people not finding the option to manually calibrate in the printer
No, from my understanding it's because of the springs used for the 'auto-leveling'.

>>97069256
Yes. 0.2 nozle, .1 layer line

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Need to use some GS to fill some gaps and clean a few support scars up but damn turned out great

I definitely should have added rafts to my last print. It was pre-supported and reliable but the support bases were super thin. It printed fine but when I was removing the pieces from the build plate, the base layers shattered into a zillion pieces all around the room. Luckily I had my safety glasses handy.

Got my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k and 6kg of Sunlu ABS-like in ‘solid grey’. Am using Elegoo SatelLite for slicer. Going to try to run the 8-plate X2 calibration today.
Does anyone here use this particular combo and have any recommendations for settings? I’ve dialled the UV down from 255 to 200 as I’ve heard the 16k has overexposure issues at full power.

>>97102009
I have the regular S4U and that resin with 0.025mm layers is 1.6s per layer , 25 for burn layers. No big changes from basic settings, just a few secs of wait before cure.

Is there a big difference between 4k/8k/16k screens?

>>97103916
Resolution, which translates to crisp detail.
That said, most people will tell you that 8k is enough for most hobbyists. Opinions may clash, but a properly calibrated 8k screen will always out-detail a lazily calibrated 16k.

>>97102953
Much appreciated anon, I will try to update you once it’s dialled in.

>>97103916
>>97104306
You also need certain resins that can take advantage of the better resolution, and when it breaks the screen will be more expensive, so for people like me it is too much money for not that much better minis. The heater would be nice though.

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Printed a punisher turret for ursus minor tank. Will print the hull over the next couple days. I'm a bit worried about the fit because I printed all the small bits like the sponsons yesterday and the fit is too tight for the weapons to fit into the sponsons (I'll have to try filing them down a bit when I get to assembly). But we'll see when it's all done.

>>97088404
why bother
why did you print the base in resin as a flat base standalone
Why not just print the base AND tail in one merged file, so the model rests on the base of the tail

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Is there a commonly used search term for looking for miniatures that are "cartoonish" or sculpted as if for plastic injection moulding kind of details?
I'm not looking for models that look like excessively detailed like they are meant to be video game assets.
I assumed that 'heroic scale' would work, but it didn't quite work.
I tried 'oldhammer' and got somewhat better results in the kind of style I'm looking for.

Pic related is Wizard with SMG by Knucklebones Miniatures to try and illustrate the kind of "sculpt detail fidelity" I'm talking about if that helps.

Generally I just see a lot of STLs being overly detailed and I prefer miniatures where the sculpt detailing is held back a bit. Anybody else like STLs sculpted like that?

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>>97109647
RocketPigGames may be what you need
60% cartoony desings, and the models are low detail density with chunky bits

>>97109647
I don't think there's any simple name for it. You just have to search the kind of character or whatever you're looking for, see if you see any sculpting styles you like and then look through the rest of their catalogs. Off the top of my head some I like that you might like are Galaad, Vae Victus, Stanislav Kuznetsov and Monstrous Encounters.

>>97088475
>What are you building?
Just random bits of scenery, infrastructure and vehicles, I don't have something like a certain game in mind, just things that I'd like to model myself.

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>>97088404
I'd personally be worried, but it's correctable... when you go to put some terrain on the base, shove a some sort terrain up alongside the tail, then pin into the tail through it (I'd pick up some brass rod to do it). Pic for clarity.

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I'm looking for recommendations for STL that match the AOS Raven Knight/ Corvus Cabal.

I plan for part of my DnD Campaign to revolve around the cult of a malicious raven god and
would like to fill up the roster a bit with a mix of humanoids, small and large monsters and a really big raven creature.

>>97110311
>>97109727
As someone who likes the same style you do, all of these + Highlands Miniatures and Warp Miniatures are pretty good.

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SUGMA NUTS GW! HAHAHAHAH I will not pay for your overpriced plastic.

>>97109727
>>97110311
Thanks for the suggestions lads!
I've also found momminiatures on myminifactory to be pretty good as well!

BUMP

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Any good program around for assembling scanned parts, like these stormcast bits, prior to printing? Doing "the good old way" with glue after printing the parts separately... I dunno if it's the setting I used, the resin, the scan, or whatever, but long story short I ended up noticeably outside of GW's tolerances here and so getting everything to fit is a pain in the ass at best. So printing things already assembled seemed like a not so shite idea, and 3D Builder has worked nicely for things more like ball-socket-mount (or perhaps what I did there simply didn't show minor misalignments so well) but here it's a bother and a half to get things lined up ok-ish, often aggravated by running into near-enough gimbal lock a lot of the time. So is there a better way?

>>97118705
I just had the same problem with some hexhunters, and for me Zbrush worked the easiest.

-You can easily set the point in space around you rotate
-Runs fine on potato pc
-live boolean can show you if you aligned too deep
-With the smudge and pinch brushes and dynamesh you can fix seams quick and as soon as you closed all the holes to a void it gets deleted, so easy to get rid of hollow insides.

>>97118705
It won't leave a dozen of small cavities in the mini? Or maybe there's an easy way to fill up the model?

>>97119150
Time to learn (the bare-bones basics of) Zbrush then.

>>97119224
I though I'd burn that bridge when I get to it. But giving it some pre-emptive though the armoured skirts on these specific models at least means I can easily enough make a drainage hole right up their plumbing to empty out the main torso cavity.

>>97119376
If you are joining it on a 3d software, doesn't that mean that you are printing the connector sprues unnecessarily?
Maybe ask
>>97078072

>>97119590
>doesn't that mean that you are printing the connector sprues unnecessarily?
I guess, but given that I happily print solid minis I'm going to write that off as not worth thinking about. Your mileage may vary.
As for Baalvision, I'll be having a look at that too then.

>>97119748
Solid is one thing and i wouldn't mind using the extra resin
But this kind of unnecessary stuff is the ones that add possible print failure points

>>97032075
I'm pretty sure someone told me 3D printers can't adequately print models like these?

>>97120137
And I'm telling you to stick your dick in a live lamp socket.

>>97120137
it was a paypig or a GW shill that don't want you to have minis with equal quality at lesser price
JUST BUY THE BOX OK

>>97120137
10 years ago they really couldn't. At least not affordably for most people. Now printers are like $200-$500 and that terminator probably cost 20 cents in resin.

I fucking hate Lychee so much it's incredible

>>97120137
I was always quite skeptical but nah, my mars 4 ultra is capable of it
I think 3D printers are superior to plastic/metal in terms of detail

>>97120137
Whoever told you this is wrong. 3D printers can produce some absolutely beautiful quality models.

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Hello. I got some Metroid models and wanted to print them but they are T-posing. I suck really fucking hard at manipulating Blender to the point I keep enlogating bones over properly adjusting their joins and even then I keep taking too long to get anything done.
Is it possible for me to use something like a specific pose to make the model follow? Even if there is a fucking canon in the place of the right forearm? I'm thinking of perhaps something like a pose pack and making Samus follow those poses and then print them as those. Perhaps do the same for others.
Any way to do that?

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>>97032075
Knight legs. Body and arms coming soon

>>97121340
no

Tried everything short of telegram (fuck that noise) and kemono (got an eyeful of AI scat bullshit the last time I tried there), anyone got Baneblades or Knights to share? I didn't keep track of what in my collection isn't already on cults etc for free but I'll share anything I've got in exchange.

>>97123498
>I did everything but the thing you told me to do, what now?
Suck a dick? Because you're being a faggot.

>>97126061
>locking information behind old forums/discords/patreon bad
>locking information behind thirdieware good

>>97127232
>check out this logical fallacy
fag

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Win some loose some. First print with Sunlu ABS and judging by the Slaughterpriest it can get the job done, but as the htoroughly Tzeentched standard bearer next to him was the one out of five warriors who printed the bes... most I guess I may need to go twiddle with some settings.

>>97127717
The banner pole makes me think the plate moved during printing

>>97128243
The one time I remember not remembering to close the latch that holds the buildplate in place nothing printed properly, and here I got one mini out of it so, dunno. Would be nice if that was all it was though, would make it easily fixed... Oh well, I've re-done all the supports, upped the layer exposure a tad, and will try again. This time also making sure the latch is closed properly...

>>97128347
Which printer did you use?

>>97128365
Saturn 4U 16k.

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I'm printing this house from the movie Up for my sister who likes the movie a lot. I hollowed it out but I'm not sure how and where to add supports or if it needs some at all. I'm a 3dp noob. Could somebody help me here?

Also when I print bases everybody tells me that you don't have to add supports at all and you can just drop it on the plate. So long as the base is flat and solid. Yet sometimes I get pooling of resin at the bottom and looks like it melted a little bit. I'm using default settings on my Mars 4 Ultra

>>97129334
Brother youtube could teach you this in like less than 10 minutes

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>>97120137

That's my proont in the OP, neat.

I don't know who told you that, but they're actually just lying or retarded. I'm a pretty big retard myself when it comes to this hobby and even I have it to the point where its almost point and click with an over 90% success rate. People in this thread will autistically fine tune their machine to really maximize their prints, but importing settings for the resin you bought will get you 99% of the way there as long as your printer is levelled correctly. Here's a set of trench crusade minis I dragged into lychee and hit export on.

>>97129334
‘I don’t know if it needs supports’ are you retarded fucking everything needs supports. Do some basic research on your printer

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Better. Re-done supports, a tad higher layer exposure time, and making sure the build plate was attached properly resulted four out of six printing properly and the two that didn't (including the standard bearer funnily enough) only had one foot each messed up which seems like something a few sturdy supports added the the sole could handle.

>>97130408
Sounds like you have to cut that bit off and pin a metal hook leg now to the standard bearer now

Any suggestions for a skull under a veil?

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>>97130820
Advice taken. Only using a spearhead instead of a hook or peg for proper Khorne edginess.

>>97131374
Hell yeah very cool anon
to make things fair, il show my gorgon sergeant

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>>97131632
forgot the pic damn

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Mk VII Retributor for me, Blood Angel for a friend. Scaled 200%

Where a good /general/ (or anywhere else really) to discuss painting?
Took anons suggestions here and bought an Anycubic Photon Mono 4 and have been churning out minis. Now I'm painting them... and I need to get better at it.

>>97132217
>painting
/wip/

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>>97132291
Ty. Didn’t think to check further in catalog.

>>97130408
don't hesitate to over support under the feet, you can't see the support scars anyway

>>97134472
Yep, that's why I went for the soles.

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>>97046144
>Based fellow marcher enjoyet

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I timed how long it'd take me to support 6 models and it took me 30 minutes
I have 700 of these damn things to support
Goddamn it
Some I can be sloppy with because I'll only print them once or twice but otherwise I will print dozens of times and so they need to be good

>>97135895
*others
Also I think I'll buy lychee for the paywalled features like a good paypig

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>>97121587
Rest of knight, going to keep the other bits off to make it easier to paint.
>>97135895
Why not just auto-support? Do you not trust it?

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Anyone has Lord Chronos Space Elves? They don't seem to be selling them anymore, I assume because of james.

i cant stop printing
its too much fun

>>97045403
a Filament printing is less bad but no one really knows the ratio. FDM printing still has ultra fine particles (aka microplastics) and some degree of Free Radicals. That said I can nap besides mine and I can only notice it rarely, where liquid resin is always sheding is my understanding.

Someone will come around and give us numbers in 50 years about how we all have mesotheleuma now.

>>97139400
>where liquid resin is always sheding is my understanding.
Shedding's an odd word for fumes, but sure, it doesn't stop smelling and as such there's clearly some molecules getting from it to your nose. Now whether or not it's the dangerous ones... fuck knows.

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Any body got some good proxies ( or close ) for necromunda gangs?
I'm printing the lawdogs off purple site for me, but other players looking for good. nomads or goliath but any good stuff. still working on print quality, think i need more exposure time

What is the deal with SLA? I am watching videos and it's considered one of the three types of printing but also is an umbrella term for everything?

It seems impossible to find an actual SLA printer on Amazon, it's just MSLA or DLP. Is it because of costs? I imagine making an accurate laser is way more expensive than just an LCD screen.

Also what're ya'lls opinions on the Saturn 3 Ultra? I'm hesitant to get the 4 because of the plate being harder to clean. Seems Saturn series has a lot of bad reviews and returns on the Amazon page though. Wonder if skill issue or what.

>>97140986
Yeah, almost nothing in resin printing can beat an UV lamp through a screen in price to quality, thats why the last few years were mostly am armsrace in resolution until that stopped making sense.

If you want to buy something from the Saturn line the best ones at the moment is the Saturn 4 Ultras and the Saturn 3 Ultra, The basic Saturn 4 and 3 are worse and not much cheaper, if any.

No Idea about the amazon returns, but I can imagine it is at least partly because of weather getting cold and people having problems with a new machine.

If you want to wait a bit, there is bound to be a wave of freshly refurbished machines on ebay after the holidays. Thats how I got my S4U for cheap last year.

>>97139631
>Shedding's an odd word for fumes
Not for an AI Bot.

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I'm getting a Bambu Lab A1 Mini. Are there any must-have accessories I should buy as well? I assume a Hotend 0,2mm is a no-brainer if I want to print decent minis.

>>97145209
You should get a Saturn 4 Ultra or Mars 5 Ultra

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any anons printing figurines on the larger size with fdm? I tried a 21hrs-ish print with a split model I found and I'm really happy with the detail but the supports absolutely shidded wherever they touched. I was hoping for a couple of tips or maybe a workflow I can follow

>>97147761
here's a hot tip: fuck off back to /toy/ tranny

>>97147789
but I just got here man come on

>>97147796
this thread is for tabletop games not coombait for virgins. you're better off asking >>>/diy/3dpg

are there stls out there for 6mm epic 40k?

th-there's no way there are elegoo shills that post ITT r-right? haha... I'm sure anons are genuine when they keep recommending their products... haha.........

>>97148293
they are the most trustworthy chink brand so perfect for old men on a budget

Speaking of Elegoo is it worth upgrading from Saturn 1 to 3? And IS the ultra model worth paying for?

>>97148402
Hell yes
Yes, buying the non-ultra would be a huge mistake because of the build plate leveling mechanism

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>>97145209
As a guy who owns a Bambu Lab A1 with an 0.2mm Hotend.
Don't get it if you want to print minis.
See Pick related i slopped some paint on quick so the detail shows through a bit more.

I am constantly amazed at how close it gets, at how plug and play the whole thing is compared to the first printers i played with years ago.

But unless you are printing smooth flat objects you'll just be seeing layer lines on everything.
And it will break your heart, because it's so fucking close, but you'll be fighting them the whole time you're painting your minis.
And i know i could possible align the model better, maybe tweak some flow settings, maybe squeeze a little more detail out of it. But at the end of the day, If you want to print minis with detail,
0.2mm can't compete with 0.05mm layer height.


>>97147789
Man that's tough talk dragging down someone who posted a print with an imageless reply.
Dude's trying to contribute to the thread and you run him out?
Come on you can do better than that.

>>97149856
0.05mm vs 0.2mm don't matter if the mini has 0.2mm shapes
Of course it will never be the same as a resin printer, that's out of the question
But if you would squeeze more detail of your mini, and actually print minis that favour your printer (actual 32mm minis with 32mm proportions, for example, instead of being a 1/12 figure scaled down) you stop breaking your heart

Your mind is in the wrong place anyway, it's supposed to be "how much I can squeeze out of my printer?" rather than "how much close I can get to resin??"
They look the same, but they are not the same. One has an attainable goal.

>>97149856
go hug a rainbow faggot, this is a thread for gaming.and i told him a better place for him to ask, so fuck off.

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>>97149908
Oh for sure and fair point,
There are definitely types of models which will be printable and look decent enough on an FDM 0.2mm printer.
If you needed Titans or Tanks or something like that, Perfect, they are a bit bigger than 32mm scale though.
I think you could probably do space marines or something like that, i have a terminator or two i was trying out somewhere, always comes back to the layer lines

However, in my experience with my Bambu Lab A1 using the 0.2mm hotend,
It's close, but the things i wish to print which are primarily 32mm or smaller lil dudes. The kingdom death ones i just saw in a thread the other day and figured i'd try tinkering around a bit.

Theres appropriate minis, but you can see on the failed ork guy, He's a chunky dude, not a lot of really fine detail, The arms messed up in the print but i use failed prints as warm up minis or to test Colour Schemes.
Those layer lines just pop through, and i tried working around them but it was a fight for the whole thing.

The armoured knight dude i was testing a colour scheme for a BloodBowl team, I can see all those little layers on the armour, on the skirt, on the raised metallic edges.

So i've been playing around with different types,
What kind of guys have you been printing? Have you figured a way to avoid those things popping up?

>>97149964
eh,
you'll get the dead threads where no one posts anything new you deserve then.

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>>97150056
yeah im sure someone getting told to fuck off on 4chan will stop people posting there

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>>97149856
>>97150021
I also have a Bambu A1 Mini with a 0.2 hotend. Your problem is your settings, not the inherent merits/flaws of the printer. Picrel; white PLA with black brush-on primer. Much less noticeable layer lines compared to your output.

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>>97150021
not him but don't look at them like the usual minis, at most they are good for gaming, so keep them at table distance and they look passable

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>>97150124
Another one, base layered with a metallic. Even less noticeable.

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>>97150130
Completely unprimed for comparison's sake.

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>>97150139
Finally a fully painted one.

>>97149856
Please don't go around telling people FDM can't do minis because you're running yours on default or incorrect settings. Bambu printers might be plug-and-play but you still need to experiment with them to get the most out of them and cross-compare with what other users are doing. Even in your example those miniatures could have easily had the layer lines knocked down by a thinned layer of sealant before painting.

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>>97150021
Like the other anon said, I think that's just failing at print lad, that's TOO MUCH lines
Like that's a lot, of inconsistent blending, I can clearly see parts that are smooth as fuck
Look at my pic, ALL YOUR MINI could be like that, printing is not a RNG that some lines pop and some don't, you are doing something wrong

>>97145209
Not direct accessories but there are some things you can get to optimise it. For example your local home improvement shop will usually sell rubberized squares you put underneath washing machine corners to stop them rumbling around; grab a set of those and one large square paver that the printer will fit on. Rubber bases down on the corners underneath the paver, then the paver as a base for the printer will eliminate the majority of vibrations as well as somewhat reduce what little noise the printer makes.

If you're working on an extremely cheap budget and you encounter issues with prints warping due to temperature fluctuations go grab a very large cardboard box with generous extra margins on all sides of the printer to house it in until you get something more permanent. You can make it a little bit more insulated by gluing the inside and outside with bubblewrap which makes a decent and cheap option for insulation. Bonus is that the insulation also works to reduce noise as well.

>>97150124
>>97150130
>>97150139
>>97150148

I'll admit those are some nice prints,
Specially that Trench Crusade guy at the end,
I do still see the layering on his cape but i'm impressed with how the chainmail and armour came through. No to mention how smooth that helmet is.
Your organic fleshy looking things look well printed and i would love to know how they come up once you start painting them up.

Can you point me towards the settings you've used?
I have gone through a number of different Filaments and settings, checked some profiles and tutorials,
But that's been hours of tinkering for mediocre results, i'll dig around and see what i've got the others where just what i had to hand.

I don't believe I said FDM can't do minis, Just that the detail isn't going to be as good as resin,
and that i'd say to go for Resin over FDM
For gaming and tabletop like >>97150127 said sure, no problems,

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>>97150244
I always say it's about what someone's willing to put into the hobby. I'm unwilling to deal with all the attendant extra work of resin printing like having a separate room with constant ventilation along with washing prints and disposal of the waste wash etc. Do you get better fidelity prints out of them at ultra fine detail? Yeah absolutely but what layer lines are visible on FDM printers are now so small that you can only genuinely see them either with a high resolution phone photo or by examining the mini up close for any flaws. Given another five years the difference will have closed the gap even further I suspect.

>I don't believe I said FDM can't do minis
>>97149856
>Don't get it if you want to print minis.
Not trying to be an asshole but throwing out sentiments like this tends to turn people away from valid avenues they'd otherwise engage in. Feels like every 3dpg thread has someone giving out an opinion along the same lines and it's just incorrect advice.

For my settings I'll just post screencaps of what I'm using. For filament I'm using the stock standard Bambu PLA in white; I prefer using white because I can use a half/half brush primer in black with water dilution to soak into the layers and expose any obvious flaws or missed support parts.

Things to note with my setting off the top of my head;

I'm in Australia so what works for me in terms of print bed adhesion may not work for other people.

I prefer using normal supports to tree supports due to surface finish issues; everyone I've read posting about their own experiences advocates for tree supports but in all my uses of tree supports they come away leaving seriously damaging flaws on the models I print. Normal supports by comparison come away in a uniform sheet and while they are prone to marring the underside of models where the supports meet they're also a lot easier to clean up than tree supports.

>>97146035
I already have Mars 4 Ultra, I don't need another resin printer.
>>97149856
>Don't get it if you want to print minis.
I want to use A1 Mini for printing scenery, objective markers and other stuff that require less detail than actual minis - for these I have a resin printer.

>>97149856
>>97150021
>>97150124
FDM minis look like dogshit nobody can convince me otherwise

Anyone here from Aus and can print stuff for me? I have many STLs to share

>>97157362
What state, resin or FDM?

whats with all the hate on FDM printing

like don't get me wrong, resin is better sure but not everyone has the space for a full resin 3D printing setup because of all the fumes and what not

>>97158180
A mixture of tribalism based on a bigger purchase( like console wars) and people with way different definitions on "acceptable quality". And probably some trolls.

>>97145209
I would stock up on some belts, ptfe tubes and wheels. Those can go bad before you know it when you really need to print something.

>>97158180
some loud FDMlets think their shit is good as resin and it created some prejudice

>>97158180
>not everyone has the space for a full resin 3D printing setup
It's fucking smaller than the FM printer
>fumes n' sheeit
Oh, you're stupid.

I know GW is already cracking down on printing, but has anyone else noticed that more free stuff that's just parts for 40k stuff seem to be getting purged as well?

>>97149856
>0.05mm layer height.
Oof! Buddy, get with the 0.02mm + antialiasing program already

>>97157877
Resin. I have basically an entire catalogue of marine armour marks to share. Mk2 through to mk7

>>97160816
You got anything for that limited release special edition mk.0 prototype suit?

>>97158180
I don't hate FDM printing, I just don't think it's adequate for minis.
And resin printing setups don't take that much more space.

I'm an ignorant bastard when it comes to 3d printing. Do/can STL files have DRM? Do they need cleaning like PDFs do? I got ratfucked by an RPG miniature kickstarter and a guy from the now defunct company just sent out STLs to physical product backers years later. I don't have a printer, and fuck that guy, so I'd like to share the files but I'm not trying to literally have my name on them. I'd appreciate guidance. Thanks.

>>97162953
Pretty sure the attempts to do so failed

>>97158180
>whats with all the hate on FDM printing
autism and seething poors, as usual. it should be simple enough for everybody to agree that resin is the superior method for producing fine detail minis and that while FDM has come a long way and is perfectly good for scenery it is simply not good enough for minis. the obvious solution is to buy both types of printer so you can print whatever you need. however, if you are poor you may only be able to buy one type of printer and if you are autistic you will feel the need to defend your purchase decision publicly to other broke retards who are also trying to cope. this creates an endless feedback loop of seethe and all it takes is one post implying that one method is superior to the other to trigger the meltdowns.

Im having so many calibration fails. to the point that it feels so weird, I didnt have as many fails like im doing right now.

Anyone know where I can find an STL of Lady Malys? At least a combination of words I can put somewhere to find it, I am having a bitch of a time trying to find an STL on her and I am sick of google recommending me reddit and sending me to the wrong places. Fucking search engines fucking suck now.

>>97162953
There are ways to make them recognizable, some people encoded patreon ids in the files to tell who leaked them, but that just means that if the file gets shared, they know who did it, the can not stop the use or sharing itself.

>>97164200
Is it colder now than it used to?
Did your film gel loose?
Did your light source get a bit dimmer with time?

Or if its FDM, did you clean your build plate?

>>97164984
is there anyone who cleans stls for sharing like the cleaners for the pdf share thread do for books?

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Anyone have experience or know about the Prime Sense Scanner, 1.09? I can't get one medical surplus for $35 and I'm just wondering if it's $35 I should put towards something more painfully priced but ultimately better.

>>97161393
it's not the printing space it's the cleanup. and 2mm nozzles and current day printers are pretty decent for table top, plus I already have an FDM so apart from bias there is just the convenience of being able to make a Goliath mini with kamas on demand, without additional setup or feeling like I need to make more stuff to make it worthwhile.

>>97166869
People in telegram stl groups seem to prefer openscan mini, unless the scanner is something like dental scanner which can get pretty good details

Picked up a Bambu Mini whatever-the-fuck for 200. Can't really use resin due to some health concerns; seems I can get it to near-entry level resin precision if I tune the shit out of it. At the least I'll get some good terrain out of it.

Anyone with experience on the Mini want to share advice? Know I need to pick up a precision nozzle, any brands that are particularly quality with this rig?