Thanks for all the print pics. It was hard to choose a clear winner. If you want a chance to be picked for the next thread here's some things I look for:
>in focus
>nothing in the background
>HD/UHD photo
>no paint (undercoat is ok)
>bonus points if its not warhammer

Also thinking of removing the printer guide and just having entries for FDM/Resin in budget/richfag categories. So would like to see some discussion around which printers to be nominated.

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Whoever this Anon is, I followed your advice after turning UV down in SatelLite from 255 to 200 and ran my first resin print without calibrating, and results were pretty much perfect. Thank you!

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>>97181859
And the result:

>>97181865
Some of the fine details are a little under printed, like the quillion on the greatsword and the belly plates on the big suit of machine armor. Is this overexposure? And if so should I drop the UV further or shorten the exposure time?

Any tips for supporting the LI primarch models?

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Unfinished kill team/storm trooper honor guard squad for Macharius when i play 40k.

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>>97182414

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>>97182414
>>97182429

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>>97182437
>>97182429
>>97182414

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>>97181041
Is it ok to print firstborns so big? He's taller even without a base.
I don't want them to be primaris size (It would be weird while fighting actual primaris), but the tiniest magnets I could get won't fit into their wrists if I make them in the original size.

>>97182437
I like those so much! Are they from ADF?

How hard is it to get this done in the winter? I was thinking of going to my buddy's place, there's like 5 people living there and they're long time friends, and I just lost my job so I figured while I'm waiting to get another one, I could get on learning to use the resin printer. It's next to a window but it's also cold af out right now. Is it easy to build some kind of ventilation tube or is it not worth the trouble? I don't want to jack up their heating bill. Also I have never done a 3D print before but there is a manual and there's always YouTube.

>>97183222
Temperature isn't as important for resin printing as it is for FDM, but the window might be a problem, since it cures with UV light.

>>97183262
So should I bring it outside? I'm worried about the fumes. And there are curtains. But I still need to get the fumes out somehow.

>>97183274
No, you must keep it from UV light. The only UV light that must affect your resin must be the one below the machine's vat.
The printer I use is in a room with a ventilator thingy in the wall that take the gases out. We still use a mask tho.
Maybe that's the reason I've never had troubles with fumes. Or maybe I'm just exaggerating and they aren't a big deal, as everyone in these threads keeps telling me.

>>97182414
>>97182429
>>97182437
>>97182444
looks like you got lost friend. here let me show you the way to >>>/tg/wip/

>>97182256
NVM, seems to be under exposure. Upping exposure to 1.8s from 1.6 for next set of prints to see what happens.

>>97183222
Temperature is a factor, but the thing is that the printing itself causes quite the heat, the light runs hot and the resin reaction creates heat.
That is why the first layers while the resin is cold and viscous can fail quite easy because of the low temps but later layers are fine. For me it is enough to warm the bath with a heatgun beforehand and let it run with slightly higher cure times at around 10 Degrees Celsius.

I got some prints, but a few appear to have burst and resin has leaked from the inside onto the other minis. Aside from feeling scammed is there any way to salvage the minis? I rather hurriedly took them all outside when I saw the liquid as I know UV cures it, but could it be put in IPA or something and the excess scraped off? Or is it too late for that as I've already put it all under the sun for a day or two?

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Saw the post about flesh coloured resin in the last thread. Whats wrong with it? Sometimes its cheaper on Amazon than grey, so i ended up with a couple of bottles a while ago too.
Once painted, what does it matter?

>>97183222
>Is it easy to build some kind of ventilation tube
Kinda, depending on your willingness to carve a hole in the printer lid and what options you have for getting the other end of the hsoe outside without having to punch a hole through the wall.
Though even if the printer has its fumes sent right outside the room you do this in, and a number of rooms nearby as well, will stink to high heaven from the "get the minis off the build plate and wash them" bit.

>>97184503
If the resin has cured then it's has become a permanent part of the mini, and any chemical that'll dissolve it will dissolve the mini too. (The mini itself is after all nothing but cured resin.)

what creator makes good dryad proxies?
I have a scan of dryads but the 3D seem way too buttery

>>97185369
>I have a scan of dryads but the 3D seem way too buttery
Things often looks better printed, not that this saves every half-arsed scan of course.

>>97184829
Nothing, it just threw me off to see it man. >>97184503
If the resin is still a liquid, washing it in 90+% IPA could clean it off the cured resin, make sure to also dunk it in water after to clean off the IPA and let it dry fully. If its already turned to hard stuff you can try to salvage it by scraping it off although it probably wont turn out well. Hell, theres probably going to be some cured bits stuck on since you've left it under the sun

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I am trying to print this warhounds shoulders at the most ideal position. For quality that is. For printing it apparently is shit.

>>97181865
Just went to print a fresh plate and noticed resin spatter on the inside of the printer hood. Tried wiping it with a microfibre cloth dipped in isopropyl alcohol but that didn’t achieve much.

Saturn 4 ultra 16k chads, is a little resin spatter on the inside of the printer hood normal?

>>97183387
i forgot about that thread. thanks big guy

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>>97181041
Should i buy a rotary tool like this or these carbon board with sand paper to clean very small tight area on 3D print minis?

>>97183297
>Maybe that's the reason I've never had troubles with fumes. Or maybe I'm just exaggerating and they aren't a big deal, as everyone in these threads keeps telling me.
I just ask because my previous factory job used methylamine cleaner, rosin flux, and pure isopropyl alcohol in spray bottles, and I swear I have nasal polyps now, i have a runny nose all the time and it's hard to breathe through my nose now and I don't know what happened, but I swear it was occupational exposure to chemicals so now I am super uptight about it.

Why the fuck is myminifactory so fucking shitty and slow with downloads holy fucking shit

>>97188998
Generally the latter (though I don't personally see the need for those carbon boards personally; some fine files or sanding twigs will do). Even at slow speeds a dremel hogs out a lot of material.

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>>97190028
For tight area such as this part here, i can’t reach it with knife or sand twig

>>97190377
you micropenis should fit with room to spare, coomer

>>97190562
I wish

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Continuing to print early war Soviet garbage tanks in 15mm

Here was have 5 T-26 1931 with twin MG turrets, 3 with 37mm and mg turrets, and 3 flame tanks.

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is there a way to "paint" on a part of piece A and then do the same on piece B and then make the two stick together on the "painted" parts? would make digital assembly easier

>>97193258
You mean like a digital kitbash? I use meshmixer but people say it's shit

>>97193361
People who are shit at it say it's shit.

>>97186333
>>97184980
Looks like I fucked up in my rush to get the resin out of the path of curious bystanders. I'll try a bit of a light IPA scrub to see if that glossy film comes off but it's probably over for a lot of these minis.

>>97193258
Import both into blender.
Arrange as desired (make sure there is intersecting geometry).
Select both objects, Ctrl-J to join.
Export as stl.

>>97197291
that's not what I mean
Moving the objects around and aligning them is possible in any 3D software.
What I mean is that I do not have to move that shit around and fiddle with it until it fits, but somewhat automate that by just selecting the surface A and make it move on surface B

Anyone know of a STL designer that does good "Modern America" buildings? I'm working on a zombie skirmish table and have some stuff from Hartolia Miniatures but could use some more

>>97200135
WOW Buildings does a lot of themed stuff, you might find something suitable for your needs by them.

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I have this game piece, one of her powers is creating blocking terrain that look like that kind of crystal amethyst gen. Do you know any models that look similar to that?

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Printed a bunch of fun stuff, I experimented with the strike cruisers, the leftmost one was with a 0.4 nozzle and custom settings, the mid one was with a 0.2 and standard settings and the rightmost one was with a 0.2 and custom settings, there isn't that much difference but 0.2 makes the gun details much better, the skelly came out well too.
Also anyone has done simple 3D modelling? Is there any guide to it? I would like to simply make a soul drinkers symbol into a 3D object I can print to apply to the upcoming space marine fleet.

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>>97209034
for vector art, you can import .svg files directly into blender and extrude/fill all the edge loops to make it a simple 3d model pretty quick. image->3D model generators are a huge timesaver too even if they need a bit of editing to be usable sometimes. i just tried it with pic related. pretty decent results.

>>97209034
3D modelling programs tend to be a bit of a brick wall to get into, so you probably want something like a beginner's guide youtube video or some such to get you started.

>>97209964
I’ve fucked around with HeroForge and I just don’t understand why we don’t have something similar but non-proprietary. I found SculptGL which isn’t bad but holy shit why is it so hard to incorporate basic user-friendless into interfaces.

>>97210035
>but holy shit why is it so hard to incorporate basic user-friendless into interfaces.
Well, there's TinkerCAD... Which I guess might illustrate the problem quite well.. 3D modelling is all said and done a quite complex task, especially if you want any kind of computer assistance to keep you from just putting every vertex in its place one by one. As such the UI also get either somewhat complex as well, or the whole thing ends up very limited in capacity.
And to be honest it usually isn't that bad to get started as long as you have a video to handhold you through the very first steps of figuring out how this or that editor has been structured.

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>>97209803
Thanks anon that's actually a nice technique
>>97209964
I agree, so far I've managed to do the inverse of what I need to do but it's not as complicated as I thought it would be, I'll get there by tomorrow

>>97210080
I tried TinkerCAD but it refused to upload the STL I was trying to modify. Blender is trying to do too much at once. Meshmixer is abandonware and the only tutorials I could find were unhelpful. Fusion360 is okay I guess but way more than I need.
>3D modelling is all said and done a quite complex task
HeroForge proves it doesn’t need to be as complex as people make it out to be.

Been using TH-BJD Cream Pink as my workhorse resin (I would just use the grey Tough 74 but the fleshtone is actually useful for my other hobby of toy design and as minis made with the stuff are getting painted anyway there's no reason not to use it) and it's amazingly strong and gets good detail, but I've found one very annoying habit of it is, because it's quite pale, the support-side tends to get excess resin cured onto it quite easily, which makes one side of the model look kinda "doughy". I've found setting a higher lift distance, lower lift/retract speed and longer light-off delay helps a lot, but with my current settings I'm getting really nice prints that take fucking ages to actually finish. Any advice on good settings? I'm using a Saturn 4 Ultra with a regular exposure time of 1.3 seconds and 30 micron layers, for what it's worth.

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I'm getting closer bros...but there's definitely something I'm missing, right is the model, left is how it would come out, it might be that a fdm printer can't do such small detail but it did smaller on the ship so it's likely a modeling error by me.

>>97210457
were the details oriented vertically on the ship? (as opposed to laying horizontally like in your pic). That can effect the level of detail that extruder moves are capable of. maybe stand it on its edge and see what comes out.

Big shout out to bambulabs, I ordered an A1 and was advised it’d arrive on the 24th and it actually showed up yesterday. Make a nice replacement for my shitty Ender 3 v3 se.

>>97210457
printing at an angle would probably do better on the details. Also, do you use arachne wall generation? It is way better with thin stuff

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>>97210513
>>97210534
Tried both, I think it's just the model that's messed up

>>97210600
That’s a very foreskin looking set of supports anon

>>97211580
I like my supports like I like my penis, uncut!

>>97182414
I like these metal ones

>>97198758
The closest I can think of is aligning planes in meshmixer. It works for flat surfaces and autorotates one part so that it sits on the same plane as the other. From then you can manually move them into position.

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The 0.2mm nozzle is clogged AGAIN!

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A while back some anon here gave away the armageddon legion to another anon. Pinched them myself for later and finally made a batch of them. Theres just short of 40 since my printer is acting up. Fucking thing has resin leaking out and even into the walls of the resin tray. Changed out the FPA just to strip some screws fucking hell.
Anyway thanks for reading my blog, heres a bunch of militia soldiers.

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>>97206661
Found this for free “wayfarer-modular-crystal-palace-terrain-tiles-18mm-scale“.
The modularity could be good for you to make several crystal parts?

This Christmas I have a printed 6 firestrke turrets, 2 ballistus dreads, 1 brutalis dread, 6 outriders, 20 plauge bearers, 2 grudge throwers, 3 chaos spawn, and a dwarf hq riding the shield that i cant remeber the name of, for my freinds. All for the cost of like 40ish burger bucks of resin give or take. Its fucking crazy to me that anyone really into wargaming or mini painting wouldnt get into 3d printing.

>>97220891
You need to print some more stuff so it fits into the twelve days of christmas song, just call it 12 days of printmas

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Is this a Lychee bug or are the STLs corrupted? The prints ended up with these weird vertical squares and slashes.

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>>97181041
Are these sizes alright or will they stand out too much in the table?

>>97222289
DROP LYCHEE
they fucked the slicer with the past updates its complete garbage
user literally anything else
FUCK! Draw each layer individually in paint and its better

>>97222360

I haven't run my resin printer in about a year and plan to when spring rains calm down. You can install an older version of Lychee can't you?

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I cut off the horns from this model but am struggling to figure out how to smooth it out
what tutorial should I be looking at?

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Does anyone else have a problem with chitubox not saving objects in a file. Tried to open several saves that are .chitubox but they only open to this screen. According to the file director they are actual files that take up space.

...

This new captcha sucks

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>>97226502
>This new captcha sucks
the dice thing has me completely fucked. i seem to only post based on random chance i picked the one it wants

>>97226347
The easiest way would be to open it in meshmixer, select the area you want to smooth and pressing f.
I don't know how to use blender, so that works for me.

G2kxVTMuM3Ztq2yfoPOeoz93BvObqUEjpmbiY2qiMzyfMF5col9xY3xjH1SDMDb

>>97228852
Thanks I guess

>>97228852
>i1U3.3vml?wA#fcj3<0^\_qc|cT06
You either dun fuck'd up or one need to do some even gayer shit than 64 bases to pirate shit.

>>97228888
>im new
what a waste of quads

>>97228852
why banned?

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Hm. Came like this right out of the printer, so the wash&cure bit is innocent. A few other items on the plate printed fine. Drill a hole up the stl's arse in the hopes of that providing some stress relief and try again?

>>97231263
did you repair the STL before printing?

>>97231263
And I should perhaps add if the photo doesn't show it well enough: obvious crack, not a delamination or some such.

>>97228896
is it not the classic Nintendo console?

>>97231269
Hm, that could be something. Lychee doesn’t complain, but when I open it in 3D Builder it does prompt me to repair.

>>97229365
James had a "licensing issue" with them and they were removed in the latest file update.

>>97231263
you can check layer by layer with uv tools to see if there's a weird 1px hole wandering across the whole mini

>>97190377

Maybe you could fashion a tool out of a paperclip. Chisel end it or wrap it with a little bit of fine sandpaper. Secure the sandpaper with a rubberband or super glue, secure the paperclip with a hobby knife handle if you have the right socket for it (a set if sockets are handy so you can fix a variety of tools to it)

>>97210457
I'm a little new to FDM, coming from MSLA, but there are some things you can tweak. If you're using Orca Slicer, under the Quality tab, try reducing the Slice Gap Closing Radius and the Resolution values. Some things still won't print for me though, and I think I need to change the extrusion width --I'm also running .4mm so that probably doesn't help

>>97231460
Had a look, couldn't find anything.

Brand new to this whole thing but I have myself
>ELEGOO Resin 3D Printer Mars 2 Pro Mono
For a starting. I hope I didn't make a mistake with it? All brand new and what not.

>>97232281
Get a couple of silicon pads, preferably with raised sides. Put the printer on one, do processing on the other, including cleaning. If you run one of those wash units, maybe a third for that, but I wash by hand so can only guess. Aside from that, I put a thin film of ptfe oil on surfaces around the printer unit to help protect it some from spills and splashes. Just wipe on and wipe off, so there's a barely perceptible film on the surface. If you need to tape the edges of the screen, do that before though. Stuff won't stick well to surfaces once the ptfe oil is applied.

Mars 2 is a little dated but can be a decent printer. Has a mono LCD and collimated light. If I remember right, the collimation lenses sometimes had some offset problems. A lot of printer designs moved from an array of lenses to a fresnel I think.

>>97232406
So even if it's dated, it's a decent rig?

BUMP
Advice requested!!!

>>97231290
Nurgle first.

>>97233972
Do you have a question?

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So all those shitty FDM prints I have seen in the past are just people rushing their printing?
I bought an A1 Mini a week ago with a .2 nozzle and the quality is quite decent but scenery printed with the stock .4 nozzle is simply stellar.
Printing a 12cm tall statue took me 5 hours and print lines are almost invisible. My settings are literally a hotchpotch of random tips and tricks from r*ddit so I can only imagine the quality you can achieve with a proper setup.
Resin printing remains superior when it comes to printing minis but I don't see myself buying terrain ever again for a reason other than unique design.

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>>97234152
>So all those shitty FDM prints I have seen in the past are just people rushing their printing?
Mostly, also there are many older pics on the net with shittier printers, or people who wasn't aware of, or didn't bother with, better settings. And cameras pick up prints lines much more than your eyes.
>Resin printing remains superior when it comes to printing minis but I don't see myself buying terrain ever again for a reason other than unique design.
Agree

>>97234074
>>97232281
See
>>97233399

>>97233399
It printed fine for me when I had one, and the software side has gotten so good that they should print now better than they ever did.
But they have a rather rough 50 micron screen, so anti alias is probably a must and so it will not reach quite the details that most newer machines can get easily.

Thing is, I do not know if that one supported wait time before printing or if you had to use a workaround. Waiting for the plate to settle against the pressure of the resin is something that only became widely used after some generations and helps loads with printing.

>>97234221
Yes. Elegoo is one of the better brands and the Mars is a fine (if small) machine. Please tell me you didn’t buy second hand though- if so you will likely need to swap in a fresh FEP and/or screen and that will like;y set you back most as much as a new printer, if you don’t own them already.

>>97234066
Do these use his sacred number or another?

>>97234152
having a 16 bit (klipper) based printer makes a huge amount of difference; all that firmware end stepper control takes a lot of the roughness out of a print. Though paintjob feeds into it to; even with an 0.4 your brain sort of ignores the layer lines once it's on the table (at least mine does).

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>>97234476

>>97234350
I'll look into some videos about it, I know its a bit old but hey its affordable in these times. Which I fine to be great.

Happy Holidays and Christmas, whatever the fuck.

>>97234394
Nope, everything is still in its packaging, no second-hand here. Though it wouldn't hurt to check.

>>97233399
Yes, it should be fairly solid. There hasn't been anything really revolutionary or major since around that generation. The big ones were collimating the light and introducing the mono LCDs. A few people were already hacking for collimation with the classic Photons and the generation after it, they introduced the mono LCDs. The collimation gave you more focused light and cleaner images while the mono LCDs lasted longer and filtered the UV less, leading to shorter exposure times. Yes, the Mars 2 can do light on delay. What it can't do is change speed for lifting and return, which isn't really a huge deal.

Do some calibration prints to dial in your settings and make sure everything's running fine. The Mars 2 should be able to get you around 2.5 seconds per layer of exposure and I suggest starting there for calibration prints. Dial up and down as needed.

Some things to keep in mind: The resins tend to like to cure around 20-30ish C/ 65-85 F temperatures. If you're operating in a colder environment, you might experience more failures and weird stuff going on with your printing results. I like to prewarm my resin bottles in warm water while I heat up the printing environment in a small tent with a fume extractor set up.
If you want a tent and can't/don't want to afford one, you can always try to secure a large cardboard box. For heating, better get something with a temperature sensor if you're going with a space heater. If you want to heat the resin vat directly, look into a silicon fermenting belt and wrap the vat with that. Some people don't seem to care about ventilation but I would recommend it. Some people also don't seem to care about skin contact. Again, I would highly recommend using gloves and eye protection. Go for nitrile gloves, do not use latex.

Shake your resin before use!

Calibration: There are a lot of options out there these days, each with their own way of reading. These are different from the torture test models.

>>97234152
I don't know, I'm fairly new to FDM as well and I have these stone building models with detailed floors that just fucks up on FDM. Shit like flagstones and rubble.

I live in a small apartment and have 2 cats, I think that resin printing may be out of the question for me. I want to 3D print both terrain and minis. I was thinking of getting an FDM printer for terrain (Bambu Lab P1P FDM), but could I use it to print simple minis as well? I just want something for a Frostgrave warband, nothing too complicated. Will the quality be noticeably dogshit, or is it good enough for most hobbyists? If it's dire, I figure I can just rent services for a resin printer.

>>97227544
>>97226502
Literal brainlets. It's far faster and easier than the old ones.

>>97237920
If you tune the printer, you can get some pretty impressive detail out of an FDM but it would also take a long time to print.

>>97238313
That's fine; I'm not printing hundreds of minis, just a couple warbands and some monsters here and there. Does the printer I'm thinking of sound good - the Bambu Lab P1P FDM?

>>97238323
Bambu has a pretty good reputation for their printers, got other manufacturers to sit up a bit when their printers first came out. I don't know what their space is like right now. There was some stuff going on with their machines and cloud storage or something a while back. If that's any concern for you, you may want to look into it, but I think otherwise it's a solid choice and a lot of people have been pretty happy.

>>97238382
Looks like you can just use LAN-only mode to get around it?

>>97238382
>There was some stuff going on with their machines and cloud storage or something a while back

A firmware update locked people out of using other slicer software unless they downgraded.

>>97238405
I see. Did Bambu ever backpedal on that?

>>97238489
Bambu said downgrading was always an option. OrcaSlicer could add new code to make it compatible with the changes, but its developers refused on the principle that Bambu should reconsider their approach to begin with.

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Anyone knows stl makers with similar style of dwarfs and goblins?
Preferably ones that have free sample models. I need only a couple to make 5-6 models size teams for playing a small skirmish game with a friend.

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>>97238556
fabelzel

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>>97238766
thanks, I forgot about those existing, I even had them bookma--
ofc they've been james'd recently... should've downloaded them instead of just saving the link

>>97238888
fabelzel is everywhere. james cannot stop the chorfs

>>97181041
Merry Christmas anons!

>>97239148
I don't deal with the gram, but yeah I could find enough here and there for a varied team

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I already spent my allotted monthly proont money, anyone got the across the realms sisters they might be willing to share?

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I'm about to finish my first spool of white PolyTerra PLA on my A1 Mini. I'm quite happy with it but I know from reviews online there are better brands. I see eSUN PLA+ and SUNLU PLA. Are these actually worth switching to? The minor price difference doesn't really bother me.

>>97245880
I love SUNLU Meta PLA

Anons
Whats a good place to get some terrain for killteam/40k ?

>>97228852
not the guy that had problems before but im stumped. did try every decoding method i knew

>>97246846
nevermind, got it

>>97247178
so you didn't try any method you knew obviously like the one that has been used here for centuries lol

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New to proonting, is this a common occurence or is it just a guy casting a big net for the holiday season?
>>97245880
Sunlu is okay, can't speak much for eSun but most if not all settings profiles FDMfags pass around are with it in mind.

>>97247547
seems like some sort of scammer

>>97198758
Yes it can be done in blender and I do it regularly for something different, but no it's not easier nor faster than manually arranging the model, even if it clips, and just merging them

>>97228852
>G2kxVTMuM3Ztq2yfoPOeoz93BvObqUEjpmbiY2qiMzyfMF5col9xY3xjH1SDMDb
>going TWO steps of decoding
not even worth looking the answer through the archive, not even videogames do this much DRM for this little content for "fear of pirates"
cmon now

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One thing i dislike about scans is that they never label the parts.
One thing i dislike about myself is that i never catalog what parts go together if i want to make more.
Atleast one of these guys will have the wrong legs attached.

>>97248926
I keep a drive full of compressed files and pull the ones I want to print into another space, so I know when they're meant to go together. Most of the time anyway.
A bit of putty will probably mask a wrong leg well enough, unless they have two right or left ones. Then you can just say you have a mutant hiding in the squad

Anyone have experience with the K1? I don't have a lot of time on it but recently swapped the hotend to a K1C unicorn and all of a sudden the build plate adhesion went to shit. Not sure if I suddenly have a leveling issue or it's something else.

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>>97250143
Sure enough, one always gets a bit fucked. Ah well, he'll get a shield.
Woop woop itsdesoundadapolice

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How much do i need to reduce the ranger by? 5-10% or something?

>>97250627
100/howbigitis*howbigitshouldbe
looks at about 80 percentish

>>97250627
>tfw no taller amazonian lady ranger

>>97250627
You should be able to take a quick measurement of the other model and then change the height value by the appropriate amount

Anyone know where i can find some skaven models?

total newbie here, using trannygram, do I just search up the model name and message that person?

>>97252283
nvm, found what I was looking for.

How do people find unobtanium models like Wilph Diverging Realms if it's not on public tgs?

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>>97254487
You get them all before he nuked his Cults.

>>97255035
I wish I was dead

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Oh no. I stripped a few jetbikes, and they became a bit more, uh, hebrew. Boiling them will probably work, but i thought it looked funny.

>>97255480
So do all who live to see such times.

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>print fails on a Dumbo model I downloaded
>little islands form on the plate but nothing else, like it disappeared
>feel little tiny bumps on my resin vat
>recently changed the film cause my dumbass pierced it and caused a leak so I'm super careful now
>use the "tank clean" feature on my printer for the first time for the default 21 seconds
>expect it to harden and be able to just peel off
>can't take it off with my plastic scraper and afraid to use any force
>try another 21 seconds to no avail

What should I do guys? I'm afraid to expose it any longer for fear of fucking it up and when I look up videos it tells me to put some spare supports or paper in the vat BEFORE I press tank clean but I think it's too late for me now. The vat is pretty shallow but not shallow enough to see the bottom.

>>97257900
21 sounds way too long, my sat4u has 14 as timing and thats a bit much

I never do the thing with the supports. With nitrril gloves you feel for a corner in the tank where the vat is bigger than the screen so the printed sheet will have ended there. Now peel it up with your finger. But if you cooked it so long it might be you need to empty it before you can get it off.

>>97257991
I already felt around and found where the printed sheet is. Is there an easy way to pop up the sheet? Can i run the tank clean again after i've emptied the liquid resin to make the printed sheet easier to remove?

>>97258040
running the tank clean again wont do shit, its a hardened sheet of resin. i did the exact same thing you did and had to peel it out. with gloves on you can usually kinda peel up a corner, kinda slide under it with your nail and just pull it out if that doesnt work pick up the entire vat and push with one finger from the underside of any corner and the try to pick it up, shitty do to alone but you can do it.

>>97258040
>>97258052
Do it like that anon told you, that is what works for me. But maybe watch out, try to lift the vat beforehand. If it sticks to the printer you have a breach in the vat and it would be better to leave the cleaning sheet and empty out the vet with it plugging the hole.

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Absolute beginner here. Started printing with resin just two days ago. Even after not getting the cones of calibration to print just right i managed to print minis without failure.
Then i started to print some bigger models, a trike and a car. Those prints failed at about 80%, like they are sliced off... pic related

Any of you Anons know how to fix this? Help would be much appreciated

>>97258147
Hmm. Can't say you're under supported. Settings are probably OK if you've had success before. Have you tried running the sliced file through UVtools or similar? I've seen slicers (especially earlier versions of Chitu) bug out and fail to render parts of supports.

>>97258040
>Is there an easy way to pop up the sheet?
Remove the screws holding the tank in place, lift up one corner, and reach in with a finger to GENTLY push up on the release film just underneath the corner of the sheet or hardened resin. As you do your other, gloved, hand goes in and tries to grab the corner like the other anons are telling you to do.

>>97258147
>Absolute beginner here
Where is your printing set up at?
Could be colder temperatures causing issues if it's gotten colder where you are at.

>>97234167
>>97234152
you can get pretty good results with a 0.2mm nozzle and patience.
there are some makers creating models that are also optimized for FDM, see arbiter in my mini factory

>>97258173
UVTools?

>>97258293
Photon Mono 4
Anycubic water wash resin 2.0
Exposure Times is 3.7 (seems way too high, but i got the best cones of calibration that way...
I can check the rest, this is what remember in the fly

I placed a thermometer next to the printer
Solid 21 degrees without drop

>>97258416
https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools
Resin printing file inspection/repair utility

>>97258147
throw the stl in 3d builder and repair

>>97258416
21°C is kinda on the low end, i suggest you to preheat your resin in a bath of hot water (max 50°C double check with your resin brand) i also tend to heat up my printer with a hair dryer for a good bit especially the vat and build plate but i am unsure if this is truly the cause, but it just might be.

>>97260787
>i suggest you to preheat your resin in a bath of hot water
That might help with initial build plate adhesion, but when the print gets to the bit that failed there the vat will have been back to room temperature for a good while already.

>>97260828
i just have to assume it has to do with reflow of resin because of how the print failed but yeah if its temp probably cant be fixed by pre heating, only other thing that comes to mind for me is if the anon had to add more resin mid print and thats kinda where the failure happened, not enough resin to reflow for a couple of layers, some layers printed half way yadda yadda

>>97250366
Might have been the cold temperature impacting the bed. Putting a lid on the enclosure seems to have fixed it.

>>97257900
Damn, I've always side eyed the tank cleaning feature. I run older printers that have an LED test, which I figure later models just relabel. Anyway, I've always put my resin back in the bottle with a strainer to catch possible loose bits floating around, then lay my vat on folded paper towels for a little bit of give but still have the firm backing of the silicon mat and the hard backing of the table. From there, I level the scraper so it's flush and remove any stuck bits. I should note that I use a plastic scraper and the corners are rounded so they reduce the chance of stabbing into the FEP.

I use a paper towel to wipe any uncured resin, expose that to UV light, and throw it away. The vat gets a quick IPA wipe down from there.

>>97258437
is this a stand alone program or a slicer plugin?

>>97258437
>>97259196
>>97260787
>>97260828
>>97260853

Thx for the suggestions Anons
I only used presupported Stationforge minis, didnt do anything to the files. Dropped em in Photon Workshop and sliced. The software had to "repair" most of the files and wanted to support them again. Clicking No worked for minis...
So i think i probalbly need to learn a lot more about how to prepare files for print.
As soon as i was printing vehicles walkers etc the falls happened.
So ist would be smart to hollow out a solid bigger model, add drain holes and then support it myself... Does that soud right?
Also wtf is a raft in the context of resin printing

>>97264000
raft is the small platform the supports are standing on iirc

>>97264000
I would at least layer through a presupported file and do an island check (or use a utility to do it for me). "Presupported" isn't really a guarantee that the creator(s) have actually tested to see if the file prints correctly.

>>97263664
Standalone

>>97263664
Stand alone. Really useful for doing last minute checks for islands & voids (or completely changing settings in files, if you want).

>>97264000
The raft serves to expand the footprint that anchors the model. It helps to resist the separation forces and prevent the model from detaching from the build plate.
You want to hollow the model not only to save resin, but so that there's less surface sticking to the FEP, making it easier to separate. You'll want a hole on the near side of the build plate so the hollowed area can breath. It's to prevent the suction cup effect.

>>97264433
Thats about what i figured going by my gut and looking up a little info.
But you said it so i can comprehend it you know.
Thanks a lot im gonna try that

Stupid-as-shit question, I know, but what am I actually supposed to do with temp/retraction towers?
>turn knobs in my settings until the whole thing comes out acceptably
>change my settings to whichever section on each came out the nicest
>make a mental note to not let the particularly bad sections ever go through on that specific printer/material combo

>>97269840
The point of them is that they're supposed to generate with different settings for each segment. You pick the segment that looks the best and use the corresponding settings in future prints.

>>97269840
Since the perfect values for printing can change with brand, moisture, color... you should print that stuff and make a new material profile and save it. That way you only need to redo those tests when it starts printing bad with settings that worked before.

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Were these fingers doomed from the start? They were already really thin and I upscaled the model from its original size. They had supports on them and I was really careful but I know eventually they will all just break off.

It’s a gift for my grandma but my mom says she’ll like any Disney character or princess so I’m just gonna find an easier model to work with and paint. I was just curious about how you guys would fix this issue with the fingers.
It was the only free tinker bell model (non boobs) from cults3d i think

>>97271821
I would replace them with curled up fists or hands with all the fingers touching, you can look for models on models-resource and use meshmixer to cut them up and mix them.

>>97271821
How was the model supported? What I would do it print her almost straight upside down so the fingers wouldn't need supports.

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i just ordered bambu labs p1s from -50% sale because my friend recommended it, dude has been using it at work this past year and miniwargaming had high praises for the machine too
been using elegoo saturn 3 for year and a half now and printed almost 30kg worth of minis in that time and now its time to make some terrain for a change

apparently default 0.4 nozzle is the good all around workhorse for all my needs for solely printing terrain

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Kind of new to the hobby and I hope this isn’t a newfag question/issue. Was going to prime some minis, got out my primer and saw this?

Couldn’t find anything online. What is this? Is the primer still usable?

Bought it roughly 4 months ago, stored at room temp and on its side. Did I do something wrong?

When I’ve primed with it before it’s been noticeably more thick(?) when shaken, like the paint has formed a layer of sediment at the bottom. The mixing ball moved noticeably different compared to other primer (Chaos black) bought at the same time.

Have not used it in about 2 months.

Citadel Color: Retribution Armor.

>>97275481
Oh and I had it out yesterday (procrastinated to prime today instead) and did not notice this.

It’s like a green gel with bits of the primer color.

>>97275481
>>97275486
Looks like paint leaked out and sorta solidified. Or at least the solvent and binder parts of the paint, with most of the pigments staying in the can. Maybe it fucked the paint up since it's now a somewhat different composition, maybe not, maybe the propellant's all gone as well making the condition of the paint a purely academic question. Only one way to find out is for you to find a modicum of agency and testing it.

>>97275529
I’ll try it out in a minute. Currently warming (safely) another can of primer so I can do it in this damned cold.

Thanks for giving more help than the redditfags who insta-deleted my posts seeking help on the topic. I’ll get back to this in 15min or so and share results.

>>97275556
>>97275529
After peeling off the green gel the retribution armor sprayed fine, I didn’t try and prime anything with it, so maybe it’s ok?

I’ll talk to the people at my LGS about it tomorrow or over the weekend, they’ve helped me before with painting stuff.

I know nothing, but why resin over filament?

>>97276255
Many people have both kinds of printer, and so they tried using uv resin as a filler to smooth out fdm layer lines. It works ok once you thicken it a bit more, and since it is uv activated you have plenty of work time. In a pinch its ok, but from my experience car paint filler works way better.

>>97276818
lmao

I'm looking for Lord_Chronos tiny space elves. They've been taken off of cults. Is it worth bothering with the blue app for chances of finding it there? I've never used it before.

>cults are flooded with jeet scam spam
Oh great

>>97255035
Thanks, anon, found them using the names you listed. Preesh.

I want to buy a printer, but I also don't want to drop a significant amount of money on something that I am going to have to then spend even more money on to replace once I hit the clear and obvious barriers the printer has as a "starter" option. I have $1,250 to blow, what're my options?

>>97280107
Resin or fdm? Either way, that's way more than you should be spending. Even Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K is like $400.

>>97280137
I was looking at a specific project I wanted to do, and the YouTuber who made it was shilling a Bambu that got $2k.

>>97280296
So FDM? What's the project? Unless it's some sort of cosplay props that are fuckhueg, just get a Creality or ELEGOO Centauri. You don't need all the bells and whistles at first, just get something that'll let you learn the basics of filaments, bed levelling, print settings and shit. Then you can buy addons like multi-filament expansions and stuff.

>>97280345
I watched this video on printing a giant kumiko wall hanger that's 11 feet by 3 feet.

>>97281376
How big are the pieces? The funny thing with resin is, if you print one or many on the same printrun, it takes the same time. FDM on the other hand takes the same time per model, so two take twice as long.

So it could be that printing in resin would take way less time than fdm if you can cram enough onto the buildplate.

>>97276255
resin allows finer details but different material properties. FDM is generally a less-involved and quicker process at the expense of minute detail. FDM printers tend to have more buildspace and filament is generally cheaper than resin so it's good for terrain, and filament is generally better for functional parts due to the properties of the materials used to print.
tldr resin is good for visual pieces, fdm is good for functional pieces. resin printing is a more labor intensive process
>>97276818
fuckin' wiseguy uh? kek

I'm at my wits end with the saturn 3 I have, will not stay level after screws tighten no matter what I do. I tried fdm printing a whole frame to keep it still in spite of it but it still manages to completely tweak itself out of alignment.

The saturn 4 ultra looks good but I am drawn by the photon p1 for how easy it looks like to switch screens.

>>97280091
Was bound to happen with how lax Cults' moderation is tbdesu. It'll probably peter out as the christmas newfag wave goes back to work or finds their footing.

>>97283898
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1614814-large-kumiko-frame-generator#profileId-1733448

Here is the project.
>inb4 this is a big project, you're retarded
Yeah, I know.

>>97286918
I FUCKING HELD MY TONGUE
FUCK
I KNEW IT
YOU DUMB MOTHERFUCKER YOU DROOLING FUCKING RETARD
WHICH FUCKING WEBSITE IS THAT?! HUH ?! WHAT MANUFACTURER IS THAT HOSTING THE FUCKING WEBSIT
GOLLY GEE JACOB I FUCKING WONDER WHICH PRINTERS ARE AN OPTION FOR YOU
FUCK
I HOPE YOUR FUCKING SHIT BREAKS

>>97286918
So the frame pieces is at least 18x18 cm, so FDM is the better choice. It looks simple enough that a bambu machine is not necessary, cheaper machines will print something like that just fine.

Any newish printer from a reliable company like elegoos neptune 4 will do fine, or if you want to choose bambu a a1 would be enough.

Bambu is like apple,good quality, pricey for what it is but they put in extra work to have an easy to use closed eco system.

>>97286960
...

I don't have a printer and have limited options in terms of sellers for what I want. Will mr. surfacer hide resin print lines? I don't want to sand, but I also don't want to paint up a figure and have it look like a Star Wars hologram.

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>>97288515
>resin print lines
complete non-issue, believe me.

Does anyone have a repo of scans of Mordheim Warbands?

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Built a curing chamber while waiting for my printer to arrive. It might look a little crude but I think it beats most of the ones I've seen on youtube, besides the guy who converted an old microwave. I might run a bead of something around the light to seal off leakage where the tote flexes. I can fit a few of these little turntables or maybe a bigger one. I'm sure it can handle more than I can print. Those seams in the lining won't be a problem will they?

I apologize if that diy project doesn't fit the subject of this general but other 3d print threads don't seem to discuss resin much

>>97288538
Really? I've seen a lot of prints where the figure looks like a topographic map. Other times look decent. But I won't have any control over the quality.

I'm looking for someone who sells Wargame Atlantic digital prints and ships internationally, if anyone knows of a good source.

>>97288936
>figure looks like a topographic map
lul, lmao even i printed a bunch of watchers of expiration vets, showed them to a friend who only buys plastic and he was genuinely impressed, just print at 0.03mm no ones gonna notice SHIT unless you look with magnifying glass

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>>97181041
Bought a 3d printer for /k/ purposes and while using minis to dial it in I fell into a rabbit hole of mini related hobbies, here's a Dominion Peacekeeper from Wayfarer Tactics that I printed, primed, and painted. It's not the best paintjob, but I'm able to put him next to my other attempts and go "yeah, he's my best so far :)"

>>97289406
Not that anon, but they say they are gonna buy models, so it could be an asshole printer printing at 0.05mm layers without anti alias. And those will have visible lines or support marks.

Best thing to do if you pay someone to print is to ask what machine they have and demand low layer height and a reasonable amount of anti alias.

>>97271821
Honestly, I would have been tempted to edit the model so I could print the arms separately and just glue them on. A lot of models aren't very printer friendly with projections going in all manner of directions.

>>97288715
I mean, it's only a problem if UV is leaking out and messing up stuff that is sensitive and/or can break down from UV exposure.

>>97294470
I got spooked reading about "shadows" in the chamber causing uneven curing but I don't think that's going to be an issue here. Now if my printer would ever arrive I'm all set to start pumping out battlemechs and tacky statues to burden my friends with.