Thread needs more prints!

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>>97360043
Freshly printed overnight

>Trench Crusade
I am at peace, thank you OP

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I have no fucking idea what is going on, this is a S4U, I have checked it is leveled to the tabe, default settings (lychee) for my resin, all screws are tight, nothing is moving during print time.
Is my printer just fucking cursed and trying to print a demon?

>>97360898

First, did you only print that one model? If yes, your leveling and everything with burn in layers is fine. If some stuff did not get printed, try the manual level app in the printer.
This looks like it could be the anti alias bug.

The motherboard has a problem with too many grey pixels in the same line, and moving from 9k to 16k enlarged the danger of that.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bNkAoa0_l2c

Ok bois, I need advice.
Good friend of mine's birthday is coming up.

He recently got a decent resin 3d printer and he's going nuts over it, printing 24/7, his girlfriend is starting to complain about the sudden appearance of resin minia of dubious taste in the house, etc.

I was thinking of maybe gifting him something "hobby related" but I am a total ignorant noob on 3d printing (all my minia comes from China recasters) so here it comes:

What the fuck can I give him as gift that it is 3d printing related?
Is UV curing station a trap?
Is there something fancy an aficionados would love?

>>97361759
An curing station is nice, but most often not that necessary. If you go that route, watch out for what size of printer your mate has, because the best thing is if you can just take the printed plate and put it directly into the cleaner, but some plates are larger than others.

I would maybe go with more resin. Maybe some interesting colors or those fancy engineering materials. There is one that cures almost like ceramics. Or some are like wax so you can cast it in metal afterwards. Maybe using those to make something for his girlfriend will mend the problems.

>>97361759
get him a new girlfriend because the current one is obviously defective

>>97361843
Do you have any names or reference for these fancy resins?
And I guess I need to check compatibility with his printer, right?
Also many thanks for the suggestions

>>97361849
I will tell him to 3d print a new one

>>97362110
The good thing with how stale the resin printer field is with innovations is that all of those resins should work with any machine, they all use the same wavelength.

https://us.phrozen3d.com/collections/engineering-resins When I say fancy, I mean fancy.

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>>97360043
Got a nice printer for christmas and I've been going in on FSD after grabbing a bit of the range to play. Very excited and it was all very easy!

>>97363846
Looks great

>>97361441
What the fuck man? This is exactly the issue, I always used AA and goo format with my previous printer and didn't know it could cause problems like this. I had a fucking hard time googling this because I didn't know how to describe it.
No homo but if I could I would kiss you in the mouth, thanks anon.

>>97361843
>if you can just take the printed plate and put it directly into the cleaner
At this point you've slid from a cure station to a wash&cure station, which may not be entirely obvious to someone who isn't into 3D printing.

>>97362540
>they all use the same wavelength.
Some demand 385nm instead of the usual 405nm, but if we're talking Phrozen etc for "engineering" resins then they'll be quite rare.

>>97363846
>FSD
recognized those models, like what that dude designs
if you don't mind I'd gladly read your experiences with the game in /awg/ in the future

>IG vehicles are great for FDM due to their blocky, chunky aesthetic
>IG infantry is terrible for FDM due to their size and flimsy details like lazguns and radio backpacks
So what, do I just make a shitpost all-tanks army or go all in on conscripts?

>>97360034
Hey, those are my prints!
Elegoo Saturn Ultra 16k, Sunlu ABS like, .025 layers and 1.8s per layer. Literally the first things I ever printed and turned out great.

>>97360711
Was your primarch in the pool? He seems a bit smaller than average. Why I'd say my primarch is 7 or 8 inches when laid out

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More from that batch. Thinking about toning down to 1.6s per layer as it’s grabbing the release film a bit too hard.

Fuck me, I had my resin printer for all of 4 days and cracked the screen. At least I pumped out a ton of plastic crap in that time

Are things settling down enough that new stl sharing groups are coming online again?

I long for the glory days again where i dont get asked to subscribe to some random site for pirated stls. Im blessed that im in a few that then went private but they never have everything like the big ones used to have.

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Looking for the free Westfalia ‘trench stench’ dual pistol officer they gave away (that I missed out on). Anyone able to help a brother out?

>>97366710
I'm waiting for some gigachad to post a leak with all of sdp's scans. All the groups I'm in are too pussy to post any sdp scans, I've already posted the couple I've bought from them but I never even see those reposted

Question from last thread but thread 404 shortly after:
Any tips on printing flat, square tiles?
I know a FDM printer would be the best solution but I have already 2 resin printer and wont buy am additional FDM one (I only would need about 15 tiles, so not that many) .
The plates would be 12x12x0,5cm (street tiles) in size. Should I print them flat on the bed or upright and put a lot of Supports under one side (if this Option would be possible I could print ca 10 at once and would be done after 2 prints).

How bad are the fumes with resin printers? People seem to act like you'll immediately die if you take a single whiff.

>>97368320
the isopropyl alcohol that you use to wash prints is definitely worse for you but people just repeat whatever they read on the internet so they treat resin like it's going to burn a hole through your skeleton

>>97368476
I used to breathe in IPA every day at an old job, it got to the point where I couldn't even smell it any more. Dpnt tthb it agav me brian dmage lol

>>97365578
I've printed lots of tanks on resin. You gotta slice them and print them by parts. I usually go 2 Tracks, then one hull (solid), then turret.

>>97368320
It's not bad at all. I went into it with a head full of horrors from the internet but I set up in my living room, on my pc desk and don't smell a thing. Guests also don't smell it. The alcohol wash is gnarly but only while it's open. Could it be slowly giving me cancer? maybe. idgaf lol

>>97367488
Depends on the detail of the surface. If it's flat and smooth you could get away with printing them upright but id they are detailed you'd usually want to have them at an angle to not show layer lines tho that would take the longest over all

>>97368320
It smells fucking horrible for sure. If you are worried about the long term harm, there are product safety sheets out there that will explain the risks better than anyone on 4chan can. My thoughts and experience is that no matter how careful you are with PPE and ventilation, if you print enough you will make mistakes eventually.

You can get these tiny air purifiers that sit inside the printer while it's printing and they do an amazing job at eliminating the smell, however according to air quality monitors they don't really do anything except get rid of the smell.

I completely stopped resin printing because I got a cat. A person risking poisoning themselves is one thing, but to subject an animal to it would be unforgivable.

I'm new to printing and working with FDM. What's the best angle/rotation to use for supporting a slight dome shape? I'm printing little circular shields for 28mm with auto supports and it ends up needing a lot of supports.

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>>97374584
Nevermind I found a decent angle I'll try this and see if it prints well. The giant raft is because I sometimes get bed adhesion issues with tiny models I don't care if I'm wasting filament.

>>97367488
Do you have a makerspace around you? 120mm square is a whole lotta suction, even tilted (which you need to do, unfortunately; I don't think you get into build plates that go that wide until you're talking about high end prosumer stuff). And you're easily burning a couple bucks of resin a shot.

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What's the heat tolerance of resin left inside a hot car? I can find lots of information on the subject when it comes to filament types, but then info seems very fuzzy for printed resin. Would be good to know for the purpose of transporting minis from place to place.

Printchads of the thread, I need some star wars alien heads for some kitbashes I want to do but I'm not getting much good shit searching on cults. Who are some sculptors I should check out that'll meet my needs?

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>>97386750

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going to work on this bony boy today
I printed a shitload of Soulblight Gravelords, Nighthaunts and Flesh-eater Courts.

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>>97386975

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>>97388524

>>97365578
I think it comes down to what kind of aesthetic you're looking for. If you look for the Kli-San on MMF you'll find a tank that proxies to a russ rather well, and I've seen people resin print those.

>>97369149
What tanks have you printed so far?

I'm looking to print one soon, just trying to work out hollowing, and drain holes for the mini atm. It'll be a week or so until the resin I want to use is in, but I'll post an update when I do.

>>97389958
These look sick, what kind of resin are you using?

I've been looking at trying out ABS-like resin for my next purchase, has anyone had experience with it?

>>97392093
These are all printed with Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like. It's always worked great for me so it's all I use, I really like it

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>>97392093
>>97392430
I don't really see a reason not to use ABS-like

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>>97360034
Monsterpocalypse is the Easter eggs this year. They may just want to fight em or paint em and that's okay too. But I'm going to try for getting em into the game.

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>>97394393
And the headliner fresh out the dip.

Each kiddo is gonna get 2 monsters, 10 of the shitlings from the faction it comes from, and and 8 buildings.

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giving people access to AI that generates printable STLs was a mistake
nobody should have that much power

>>97397741
>AI that generates printable STLs

Damn, we're already at that level?

>>97386750
Man, one of the classic masters of the chapters! I have always wanted that body to do the classic conversion everybody does. What specific name it has, so I can check a few groups for it?

any good studios/links for necromunda/ganger minis?
terrain is also ok

hey. i got fucked over in an trade via the german version of craigs list (technically speaking) and i need some replacements for imperial knight armour panels. As long as they dont look like chaos knight stuff, do you guys know some decent looking stuff to print out? i was looking on the usual sites but it seems like most of the armor is for a Proxy model, not the actual knight from gwendolyn.

>>97397858
"printable STLs" isn't saying a whole lot with modern sliver tools. aislop models have a lot of problems, but 3d printing conveniently doesn't care about most of them. Thingiverse is completely overrun with aislop now.

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fdm bros....we won..

>>97361759
A couple years of lung cancer medication and a good minifridge to store them in for ten years.

>>97397741
Once a proogen of The Emperor's Children, Faction, Viglghnnare canmounted for mac-cannon, swelien and yenning. Its tos ingrand of point-black range. Nacmessec Brother Viacro cattion, and naind in.

Clamon t vitta a progensator of our Chanmought, Viagros, it's colliming thaner of discagre fed cataract: fortees report benon flexing mid with a sound, somewhere -- scream and a Zhmm and this vivo portis cannon agareg fit of fand further service.

>>97400662
Vagueposting in a 3D printing thread earns you a bullet in the stomach.

>>97400946
its only vague if you are dumb
im showing that you can get almost resin like detail with a fdm printer and a 0.2 nozzle

>>97401179
>resin LIKE
>no explanation
>method or settings used
>shitty pic of a """mini""" that might as well be the size of a watermelon in reality
lol ok

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>>97401442
bambu lab a1 mini 0.2 nozzle using fat dragon games profile and 0.4mm layer
made the supports with resin2fdm plugin
the "shitty" pic is because the mini is 32mm

>>97401482
very nice
it's still trashy compared to most things

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>>97401482
>>97400662
Personally, I cant do FDM minis. Everytime someone posts a pic of them, they always have bizarre gunk tacked on to them presumably from where the printer finished on a ledge or something.
Like on the first mini you posted (where you blocked everything else out for some reason?) you can see it on the greaves? Shin armor?.
you say resin-like quality but comparing it to my gorgon (which admittedly could have better clean up) the difference is still staggering.
Does it matter for tabletop? Is anyone really going to care? Will paint and some filing make most of it go away?
No, No, Yes

>>97397908
here, you're probably not going to find it on your own. i got it from an obscure group
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC84M0E2R2k=

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>>97392748

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What causes this? Rest of the mini printed fine, but sometimes I’ll be missing a foot, or an arm on some. I’m using a anycubic photon m3. Printed in a garage, but got a lot colder out than I was anticipating.

>>97405944
Probably the cold doesn’t help, get a heat belt for your vat. Also don’t trust the stock Trench Crusade supports, they aren’t very good. Use your unsupported versions and watch this video:

https://youtu.be/-48RKSB4T3U?si=MLOB6sTIeaXAoyZ4

>>97405961
I’ll give that a shot, how well does that program compare to Lychee? I’ve used auto supports in the past with mixed results on Lychee.

>>97405974
Lychee is awful, frankly. Elegoo’s SatelLite is pretty good (it’s what I generally use, I printed the figs in the OP) but if you absolutely want your prints to work, warm your resin and follow the video.

>>97406101
>Lychee is awful
Yeah I'm still pretty new to it all, it was just the most recommended. I'll give Blueprint/ SatelLite a try tomorrow IF it's a little warmer out. Thanks Anon

>>97392093
>I've been looking at trying out ABS-like resin for my next purchase, has anyone had experience with it?
Yes, i print exclusively with it. Standard resin is just to brittle. ABS like have some flex to it which makes the models more durable; the downside is it likes to warp, which creates problems with larger models like vehicles.

>>97406101
Why is Lychee awful?

>>97397741
fucking kek

Does anyone have a recommendation for a seller with a line of tyranid alternatives?

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This is kind of /tg/ adjacent, but does anyone know if someone ever made an STL to make "shelves" for Really Useful Boxes? I know everyone recommends the Duncan video, but for the first time in 3 years, my list doesn't fit 2 bins. I have a bunch of wasted space that could easily be fixed with a print and I figured the youtube video was popular enough that it may very well exist.

>>97407324
Buggy program. Better auto supports in free alternatives. Functions gate kept behind subscription paywall. AI shit being pushed in their model library.
It was good for a time when it was simply better than everything else, but that's no longer the case.

>>97408592
>fixed with a print
Or a piece of hardboard and 4 dowels.

>>97408592
>shelves
Anon, that's something you could model in 3 minutes in something like tinkerCAD.
If you want something like stacking gridfinity on a larger scale, you may need to create it yourself. If you want to nest large models like in your image, you're going to have to create something custom.
The only stuff you're likely to find ready made is going to be fairly generic and not really all that efficient.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6792264
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3576026

>>97408652
works on my machine

>>97408920
You work tricks at truck stops, spare me your opinion.

>>97408652
I thought I was crazy when I saw how bad the paid autosupports are. It'll cram 4-5 heavy supports onto the bottom of a helmet and then fail anyway. I actually went back to the free ones for smaller things because I couldn't be fucked to manually support some shoulderpads or something. As long as you pre-orient the models, the free autosupport does a decent enough job. I still manually support anything bigger than a marine, however.

Does anyone know of good space marine torsos that have a blank chest plate?

>>97360034
Any idea what could make for good Wraithlord proxies? I'm fine with something less "official GW" as long as it looks cool.

anyone have the new thornfall minis from this month's warmachine tribe

i really need more piggies in my life but seeing how most of it is included in the welcome pack i dont really feel like paying for a full month's worth for minis that are probably gonna fail constantly in my printer (the iconoclasts would also be neat, i kinda lost interest in the tribe/entire concept of printing a few months back)

>>97409047
corny

>autosupports
Lmao bums with shitty prints. Autos are for tards, learn how to support your models lazy fucks

What’s a trustworthy 3d scanning service that will provide stl scans of minis/mini bits?
I have some out of production models I want archived as stls.

>>97413252
>service
?
Did you mean software or scanner?

>>97414764
No I meant 3d scanning service. Like I mail the bits and they get scanned and preferably sent back to me and I get the obj or stl files that are also clean too via email.

How much on average would it cost?

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Where can I find Zero Five Kim's .STLs?

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Need some help in determining what the problem is and what to do.
>Pic related
It looks like the print is failing to stick on one side. This isnt an isolated issue, recent prints have all had bizarre failures related to the side. Just in those ones, I could still ignore it as it would only fuck up the supports. But now its failing to stick even the bottom layer.
Obviously this seems to be a build plate adhesion failure right? Should I sand it down? Only the right side or the whole plate? Or should I just order another one?

>>97415243
there is a manual level option hidden in the menus, try that first. Before using it loosen all the tensioning screws a bit.

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I made a steam tank

>>97415589
you think its a levelling issue?

>>97418174
If it fails so early, it must be problems with the adhesion of the first layers.

So most probably is:
-wrong settings, maybe a bit longer burn in layers
-not leveled properly, relevel
-film has a problem, maybe hole, maybe not screwed in tight enough
-left peel on something, take it off
-light source or screen broken, put a paper sheet on it and use the test mode to see if it lights evenly
-severe draft, one side of printer is colder so cures worse, so warm or add cure time

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What are my best options for stacking resin prints like pic related? My printer goes fast, but I'm gone for most of the day so I'd rather have a single tall print to get as much done as possible. I have only ever used Lychee so I'm not sure what software I'd want for this.

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brintin deez

Hi, first time posting. I pulled a 3d printer out of storage that I've never used. I kickstarted it years ago and its been boxed up since then.

The Elegoo Jupiter 6K, whats the general consensus on it?

I recently started DMing again and am about 33 sessions in. Now I wanna print some stuff in 15mm scale.

I also want to try newer ABS-like resin, in hopes that the shit I print isnt super brittle. I hear Sunlu is good.

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>>97418881
da great angel

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>>97419739
couple russians and a devgru

>>97419402
Printer’s old as shit but 6k will be just fine for 15mm (especially seeing how many awful FDM prints are getting made).
Sunlu ABS-like is a great resin.

>>97419752
LOVING the monster pube hanging off the middle guy’s face.

>>97419831
cat hairs be floatin

>>97414775
I have never heard of such a service..

>>97419857
>cat hair
Not that curly you filthy lying masturbator lol

What are the best resources for learning to do 3d sculpting in blender? I'd like to separate heads from some files or create different types of joints for others. How difficult these things are for complete amateurs?

>>97419829
What's the cream of the crop for resin printers now?

>>97420204
Artisans of Vaul on YouTube if you’re wanting to learn re-posing. But you’re better off starting with MeshMixer for head/equipment swaps, look up TechClub and Billie Ruben on YouTube. I learned head/weapon swaps in about 30 minutes with MeshMixer following their vids.

>>97420227
Top of the line are HeyGears but they are fucking expensive. I run an Elegoo Saturn 4 16k and it’s 85% as good for 50% of the price.

If you’re wanting FDM, Bambulabs are extremely good for the price, the A1 is great, especially for terrain.

>>97419983
Did a quick search and there’s strangeplastic which is a service recommended by Wargames Atlantic to get their stls printed that offers a scanning service and another result was zealot miniatures.
I’m not sure if zealot is legitimate and I’m also not sure if the businesses will charge more than what the average industry rate would be.
I am most certainly not trusting an Etsy service. At least unless I know it is legitimate but even then I’m not sure.

>>97368320
My printers are out in the garage. The solution to pollution is dilution and I'm the only one out there. But yeah it's nasty stuff if you don't treat it respectfully like any harsh chemical.

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>load yesterdays project
>half of models turned into a mess
huh

>>97420255

Thanks!

>>97420848
shitubox

>>97420632
Does it stink when you go in there after the printer has been running?

>>97416731
Looks sleak. A little bit too thin for soldiers to handle the cannons?

Can't settle on how to organize my prints. Keep changing folder structure constantly and it's all a mess
I like to rename folders too, but then it makes it annoying to keep track of updates and new versions

>>97418881
rest of sangy and some random shit

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>>97421891
oobs :DD

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>>97418381
Thanks for the suggestions anon, il run through some of them
>Wrong settings
Typically always did 15sec bottom but cranked it up to 25sec and its still resulted in pic
>Not leveled properly
Could be, One time when fixing a failure I could've sworn the tilt mechanism was uneven
>Film has a problem, left peel
Its happened before the recent film, and this film is a brand new one. Whats weirder is that I've already done a few prints that have come out fine
>Light source is broken
Maybe? Doubtful because it still does a vat clean, and I've pulled off the resin tank and done a check. Whole LCD lit up like it should be
>severe draft
Could be, the side thats bugging out is by my cold ass window. Although its inside of a grow tent and the window is pretty well isolated, altough that still leaves cold air seeping in from the bad air funnel which comes directly from that right top corner.
>Also pic related
Even after the unsticking bottom layer I decided to say fuck it and keep printing. It resulted in this monstrosity? where it seems the supports bugged out. The print itself is fine, with the exception of a few superficial looking errors that can be cleaned with a knife and a file.
Anyway thanks for reading my blog, I might just wait until winter to determine if its cold weather or if it needs to be manually levelled.

>>97420227
The real answer is anything related to dentistry. If you want real good details, and a infinite budget. Anything built for dentistry is top of the line shit. Heygears is one of them like that anon mentioned.

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>>97421901

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What settings from Bambu A1/A1Mini profiles can I carry over onto a different printer? I tried just copying profiles from FDMminiatures and Fatdragongames whole-hog but supports cling like a bitch on both and the quality is a visible step down on both the top/bottom layers. Resin2FDM also doesn't seem to cooperate due to what I'm assuming is too high a speed for the support trees or bad automatic placement.

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>>97416731
Ye I'm making it chunkier.

>>97421289
only when it's fresh out the bottle. garages aren't airtight. if im printing on the weekend I have the door open anyway while i do other stuff.

Both Lychee and Chitubox are dogshit now, whats a good slicer these days?

>>97426445
lychee

>>97426445
manually seperating the model by layer in your CAD of choice, then export them layer by layer to you LCD, while manually toggling the UV light with your teeth.

>>97426445
paint three thousand jpg files with mspaint for each layer

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*mogs you*
Let me add some quality to this thread.
Rest of armor is being kept separate for now, make it easier to paint him up.

>>97424319
>Typically always did 15sec bottom
Is your machine a Saturn 4 Ultra? Can't tell from the picture.

Mine was having adhesion issues so I increased bottom layers to 10 for 30 seconds.

>>97430379
It is, how many bottom and transition layers do you?

>>97405742
Very nice! What printer did you use?

>>97430716
Thanks, they're all printed on a Saturn 4 Ultra 12k

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How quickly is detail lost when you scale a model up?
I have a file of a little parrot, 25mm across diameters what happens if I double it

>>97426445
Elegoo SatelLite is pretty darn good.

>>97434043
Print a couple at different sizes and see.

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Printed up some Orks and with these I finally have 2k worth of models. I also started a Dreadnought this afternoon so I should have it all done too by the end of the day. I'm glad I got the Elegoo Saturn 4 with the heated tank cuz it is cold out

Does anyone have a source on epic scale necrons? I can't find anything on telegram.

>>97434043
Scaling up is no issue, models meant for 6mm scale look a little bland at 32mm but okay at 15mm.
Scaling down is the issue, trying to print a 32mm scale mini at 6mm is likely going to fail because parts become too thin or fragile and detail gets filled in

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Printed loads of basing stuff over the weekend. Skulls, mushrooms, plants, trees, broken wall pieces, woodland critters, etc.

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Made a custom sisters of sigmar imperial nobility blood bowl team with some mordheim sculpts and some hands I cut up in blender. Think they came out pretty solid for a kitbash

>>97441091
Why not use the sisters of sigmar team roster?

>>97441289
Not playing secret league

>>97442033
If your group won't allow it then you're playing with a bunch of no fun allowed losers.

I haven't run my printer in years at this point buy I am still hoarding stls I think I have a problem...

So on my Saturn 3 Ultra I noticed when I set Z to 0 if I then press Back to Zero it seems to be way higher than where I set it to. I just had 2 prints in a row fail and now I'm wondering if this was always the case or if its a problem I have to troubleshoot? Really starting to regret not getting the 4 so I could autolevel.

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>>97443775
Here's my settings for what it matters. It just suddenly stopped working on my last print so I cleaned the screen with IPA, retightened the plate, relevelled the thing, put all new resin in after running the tank clean and pulling out the debris, and then it failed again.

Last week, it was failing in the top right corner, and things were starting to peel off the plate, which is where the inline fan is screwed to the table. I figured the vibrations were affecting it. I got a 16×16x3 stone slab to go under it, and that's when my problems started. My setup has a temperature controlled heater inside a grow booth, so it's not like temp is the issue.

>>97443876
Have you considered resetting to defaults?

>>97443876
Also
https://youtu.be/Tf8QAC2cqOU?si=OGLhGPxuDTfaMnwO

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Yesterday’s print, a bunch of Snobs and a Stump Gun + crew for Turnip 28. Sculptor is ‘Leech Lover Laboratory’ on MyMiniFigs. Saturn 4 ultra 16k, Sunlu ABS-like, 1.6s exposures.

>>97447219
>turnip 28
Patrician taste, models look good anon

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Found some scans.
What’s the best way to edit off plastic frame parts, remove mouldlines and generally convert the model to resemble the original CAD file?
This can be done in blender right?

Generally I’m trying to remove all scanning visual artifacts.

>>97449814
people usually just print them as is and snip off parts after
resin tends to shatter but you can still get clean cuts

>>97449814
The popular opinion here is using meshmix. Look up a youtube tutorial on how, but how i've done it is by selecting all of the polygons of the not wanted bit and then hitting the remove and make normal button.

>>97448087
Unfortunately have had a shit time with layers not coming off the FEP when printing fodders. Almost every print has partial failures and can’t seem to figure out why. Going to try cones of calibration and bed levelling.

>>97449814
I also suggest just using blender if you don't wanna fiddle with zbrush
Usually better tho to get that kind of gunk off before you print tho unless you wanna risk making your resin snap

stfu indians

>>97454555
Sorry for answering his question I guess???

>>97453487
Fodders have the napoleon hat right? Could maybe be a vacuum from the bizarre shape.

>>97458500
No, mine have shakoes and forage caps.

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remember kids, if the licer suggest this as auto supports, is probably not a great idea.

Anyone know good bulk PLA/resin deals? I want to stockpile a year's worth of each while I've got cash to burn.

>>97461510
>a year's worth
What is a years worth? Ive had a kilogram of resin last a year, ive also had another year where I went through 5 kilograms.

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Ctan shards being exclusively in the monolith box is both a retarded and greedy idea. So, of course, that's what GW does.

>>97460555
>licer
sounds like the girl i gave $5 to for a tumble behind the skip bins at work

Hey /3dpg/.
According to the thumbnail of the slop video linked in this post:
>>97459092
There has been a big leak of gw CAD files.
I have the piracy app but never heard of this so I’m not sure if it is true or clickbait or if I managed to miss it.
What’s the right directions to getting to the leaked files if the clickbait thumbnail is true though?

Best to have the answer in the standard encryption too.

>>97462179
It wasn't GW cad files, it was a clickbait thing about some scans of models which are not hard to find. See >>97360711
That youtuber is notorious for just making shit up about GW when there are already legitimate reasons to criticize them.

>>97462266
>it wasn’t gw cad files
A shame.
Alright thanks anon. Glad I didn’t click the play button and only looked at the thumbnail.

>>97460555
Nah, send it. Jesus take the peel.

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Any good stl makers that do minis in the style of pic related? Im looking for more heroic scale 28mm

Yes its AI sorry

>>97462528
My first thought was anvil industry. I think they might fit what you’re looking for.

>>97462528
that's just escher gangers with space marine forearms and lower legs, tack on a chaos guardsmen pauldron and badda-bing, you've got picrelated.
Digital kitbash for this project, then you can rescale the leg and arm bits just right.

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Well lets see how this goes

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Bottom printed fine, stuck to the plate and then somehow the rest printed like this.
I think i had it too flat and needed to angle it more?
I'm still new to this, no bully

>punched a pinhole in my release film Sunday
>Saturn 4 Ultra full of resin last night
Fuck my life

>>97466037
is that a scan?
how do you people find those :(

>>97466147
Yes and usually telegram groups.

>>97466090
>Bottom stuck fine
>Image of bottom very not stuck fine
From the size of the bottom layer in that other print I'd say you probably have it set long enough. If I were you Anon i'd sooner look at the temperature of the resin

Has anyone had success with printing resin outside? Not in direct sunlight obviously.

>>97365578
I use resin for tanks. It really isn't an issue as long as your models are designed for it, which most are.

I have printed Rogal Dorn 1:1s on a Mars. Sure it took about 4 plates over a few days, but it worked great.

>>97366710
It seems to be coming back a bit, but not much. Luckily most of the groups didn't actively kick people out if you were already in.

>>97466090
It adhered fine to the build plate, so you have burn in times that are fine to work, but they could overdo it a bit. As the other anon said, they look a bit thick, which could be because of too long burn in times or too cold resin that is still viscous so the layers are not as thin as they should be. Both can cause more problems down the line.

Furthermore, we can see that supports stopped right after the base layers. Did it stop printing right away, or did the whole model rip off at a later layer? To know that just look at what was left in the vat, was it a pancake or a half a model?

If it was the first, it could be the transition layers, support thickness, wait time before light, lift speed, temperature

If it was the second, it also could be orientation of the model

>>97462528
PrintMinis makes a bunch of Necromunda adjacent stuff that looks similar. More cartoony than the current Necromunda, less cartoony than the old stuff.

>>97468949
>nta but
Do you know any other stl makers that make 28mm humans in similar proportions?
What anvil industry makes is a good example of the proportions I’m looking for.

Anyone here own/used a GK3 and if so would you recommend?

Looking to print 6mm and 15mm minis mostly, planning to set up in unheated garden room so something with built-in heater seems quie handy

>>97469008
>that make 28mm
You do know you can rescale the files to your desired size when you print, right?
I've printed 32mm stuff at 6mm scale.

>>97468387
just sitting outside? I probably wouldn't, even not in direct sunlight, i'd worry too much about exposure and random shit messing with it. a bird lands on your box, fucks it up and dies. or if a kid can be anywhere near it. but outside in a grow box? Yeah, that'd probably be fine. Hell even just a big opaque tub over it. (please still wear a mask when you open it)
I print in my shed, with the windows and doors open (at least when its not the -5 it is right now) and haven't had any problems. obviously wearing a respirator when I'm going into it.

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Trying to print small bits like grenades, pouches, trinkets etc is a fucking nightmare. They always gets lost during post processing for me.

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>>97470073
buy some aluminum insect screen
then cut it into form and fold it like a cube to then lay it into the washing station
the mesh is fine enough to catch all the small shit but not completely closed off so that the prints get still washed

>>97470146
Will try it next time

how would you calculate "how much" is a fair price to charge somebody for a print?

the slicer will give you an estimated ammount based on price and resin. but this does not consider the Fep degradation, and other materials. or the work of cleaning and removing supports.

I usually go for 3 times the resin cost, but... should I be a little more greedy? specially if im not making the money back.

>>97466102
I'm going to assume you didn't know about the pinhole; because if you did... that's on you dude. Why would you leave it almost a week to deal with a critical issue?

>>97470146
I use silicone mesh that is meant to be used as a liner for bamboo steamers. The holes eventually get blocked up with gunk after about 50 uses, but I found a pack of 5 for about $2.

>>97470254
That's entirely up to you and your customer.

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I would appreciate any help in finding out what causes this kind of... shredding? It happens on large and small prints, but not every time. I am only printing highly rated stuff at the moment from Maker World since this is my first printer.

I am using a P1S, and the filament is being fed through a standard AMS. This is Bambu PETG. I haven't adjusted the settings whatsoever. I want to work out any of the kinks (or as many of them as possible). Any help would be appreciated.

>>97471637
you didn't support the inside of that arch, how is filament supposed to to get laid down over thin air and stay nice and pretty? you can get away with spanning short gaps, but not that.
support your stl lie it was going to resin, export that as a new stl (make sure to use big supports lie 4mm wide with tips of around 1mm or so then export that as an stl and then slice it for FDM.
you'll use a lot more filament if you do it auto support btw, so tell lychee to not life the print and manually lace your own supports in places like that arch that need them, lychees FDM autosupports are total garbage, but resin style supports work really well when made large enough.

For anyone else that uses chitubox, looks like they rolled out a new update. Now can cut connectors into models, which will be pretty nice for printing out tanks and shit. Dont know too much about the model protection box they brought in too. Seems redundant? Thoughts?
>>97470254
I've taken entire business classes dedicated to this question anon, you cant really answer it fully without going really in depth. But to try to anyways, a small summary is a minimum price of parts+labor (kind of like cars and mechanics) where you decide whatever your time is worth. Typically want it at a sweet spot where enough customers will buy from you, but not too much you're overloaded.
Alternatively you can say fuck all that, look at how much online retailers charge and do that.

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>>97472107
forgor to add pic of the stupid email they sent damn

>>97472107
>Typically want it at a sweet spot where enough customers will buy from you, but not too much you're overloaded.
or the non-greedy option where you take the mean of the value of parts+labor as your profit, so your profit averages to 30ish percent over the raw value.
If you have too many customers you can always say "sorry I'm all booked" and if you have not enough customers then whatever your selling is either undesirable or too easy for others to produce for themselves, in either case that tells you that attempting to market that product or service is a waste of time.

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>>97470073
Get a couple of tea infuser/strainer ball things.

>>97472368
So he should just do what I told him to do for a minimum price cool.

>>97472875
Nowhere did you suggest a percentage number justified as a mean of parts and labour.

>proxy stl I thought I have is taken down
>don’t have access to external ssd because away from home
>search on piracy app and got nothing
Well then it looks like my only option is here.
What’s the protocol for requesting a specific stl from here as a last resort?
Is it still a request and an offer with the usual encryption?

>>97469949
I used to print inside in a bathroom, and thought the weenie little ventilation fan that keeps mildew from growing on the walls would be enough. It wasn't. I don't have any other space to print but outside in a space that only gets direct sunlight for a few hours a day.

Printing FDM outside in the open air has been an experience that I can't recommend to anyone for what that's worth.

>Have like 12 Kurnoth Hunters, 5 Tree-Revenants and 5 Spite-Revenants still in their supports
>Can't be arsed to clean them up
somebody else do it

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went from .05mm to .03mm. i'd say the 30 extra minutes of print time is worth

>>97474766
why do you need stls if you're away from home

>>97475977
He has a deployable printer in a case like iron man 2 or something? :/

>first print
>looking at sunlu's parameters for their abs-like resin
>"almost a minute for the first layers is absurd"
>follow it anyways because I can't find other ones
>printer makes horrible noises when printing the first layers
>like someone crunching a bunch of rocks
>test print is done after about an hour
>trying to get the print off the plate
>use the plastic spatula
>it breaks
>go for the metal one
>it gets the job done
>check plate
>oh shit resin is flowing down into the piston thingamabobs of the mars 5 ultra that make it oscillate
>clean up
>start the next print
Damn how I missed doing this all over again. I haven't dialed in the settings yet but I'm having a lot of fun.

>>97477431
I didn't know it was possible to be so retarded that you cant operate a resin printer correctly.

>>97477604
Well here I am, at your service. For what's worth the rook came out perfect.

>>97477431
The crunching sound is unironically normal

>>97477820
I've never heard that with my old printer but at the same time it wasn't using that resin with those settings.

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>>97477431
For ABS-like resin, a minute is absolutely absurd, even 30 seconds is crazy (for me atleast).
>>use the plastic spatula
Oh dear god anon, thats for cleaning the tank. Well, atleast its better it breaks early, plastic can wear down and eventually cause holes in the FEP sheet so get a silicone instead.

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>>97477431
what is u doin dawg

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>>97478526
>>97478998
I fucking knew it. I fucking knew it. They do live in la la land. I never heard of a resin that needs an entire fucking minute for the bottom layers but last time I printed something was more than half a decade ago and even then when I saw that shit when ordering I knew they were full of shit. Well I still have the plastic spatula from my old printer so that's not a big loss.

>>97479355
This is from the amazon page that sells it so that's why I was "apprehensive" to not say completely baffled. At least it printed without problems.

>>97478998
Thank you, next prints I will use that.

>>97475977
I’m worried that I don’t have the stl on my storage device which is back at home.
But I guess I’ll wait until I get home to check.
>>97477135
I wish bro.

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Anyone know a creator with decent STLs of chunky Cavemen, Cavewoman and Simians? Unfortunately most sculpts I found are spindly and realistic. I want something bulky and retro. I found SeventhBasilisk's cavewomen which look nice but he has no male sculpts unfortunately.

>>97479355
Those times are probably left over from when the early printers used color screens, not mono ones. Those had way higher cure times and thick 0.05mm layers.

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>>97481021
Look at the pic he posted again. Even the Mono (spelled incorrectly it seems) recommends 55s bottom layer exposure time.
Whats weird is that directly on the bottle, there are significantly better settings

Looking for a file for a Lord of Skulls. Any anons know where?

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>>97472122

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>>97484255
Heres the split function in action, its nice when printing larger bases, this is a 170mm.The little line in the middle is kind of visible, but hopefully some paint will end up hiding it.

Does any type of resin come close to hard plastic in terms of durability?

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Does Orca just automatically make .06mm profiles for nozzles under a certain height? AFAIK mine (.25mm) should only go down to .08. Gave it a whirl anyway and it doesn't look too terrible (granted the fuckoff bright orange is likely helping with that).

>>97485407
>that cadian
The remakes of those cadians never get the winged skull right for some reason and it gives me ocd autism to no end.

>>97484263
If you are gluing it together with ca, just rub some baking powder into the crack, that should help.

Of course something like greenstuff would work better, but I guess the chances of you having baking soda are way higher.

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This is my latest project, just debating how to paint it

>>97487186
with some paints and a brush I'd imagine

>>97461961
Based

>>97487186
Using the game accurate color pallets yea, some comic style shading too?

>>97488130
no with crayons you fucking chango

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Can someone tell me what this issue is called? The cracking (and the weird, deformed lines as well). This part of the print was not an overhang, it was printed vertically so I am confused about it. Also, it doesn't happen on every edge on this print. This particular print has six similar corners, but it only happened on two of them.

>>97491036
what's your light-off delay?

>>97491310
Ah, this is FDM, not resin. Regular PLA.

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Tried the heavily shilled meme printer with a 0.2mm nozzle, default settings, brand new filament, and I understand now why it's so heavily shilled. Not resin quality, but damn close by my eyes.

>are those cobwebs inside the resin print?
>it's been sitting in a drawer for a couple years...

>>97491036
This is caused by slack in belts or gears as it reverses the direction of travel. You'll find it happens each time it doubles back on itself in that axis of movement. Reorientation might help you keep the issue minimised, or if it's a belt printer, you can tighten that belt.

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>>97491797
Damn, really? Well, not a huge deal but that doesn't bode well. This thing only has 75 hours of print time. What about this? This was printed horizontally, so this is an overhang but I filled the overhang with supports. Now, I want to mention that this is happening with or without supports. I tested both just to see.

>gifted solar auxilia leman russ by a friend
I want to pimp this thing out.
Found sponson stls and a mini gun barrel for the turret but I can’t seem to find stls for track guards for it that cover the front back and middle for the tank.
I did find track guards but they don’t cover the front section sadly.

I could use some specific links for such an stl.
I’ve exhausted my googlefu knowledge.

>>97492001
You might need to replace the nozzle. You can check if it's belt slack by slowing the printer way down and seeing if it still happens.

>>97492001
Check your slicer before doing what >>97492564 says
Looks like it could just be the pathing for such narrow walls at that angle it's trying to achieve

>>97492982
What should I look for in the slicer? I want to use Orca, but for some reason it will never send the project over to my printer (even though it sees it, it's on the same network, account, etc.) so I've have to use the regular Bambu one.

>>97495149
check your windows firewall settings, or use the sd card instead

>>97492230
go to the pirate site next time, lazy slut
https://gofile.io/d/rxLhUR

>>97495193
Yeah, that was the first thing I did. But I will use the SD card if that's my only choice. A bit frustrating, but it is what it is.

>do not use storage device that comes with printer
why?

>>97495325
no reason, thats all i use, printed hundreds of minis

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Steam powered war wagon. Lots of little support issues, so I'm going to have to redo it, but it came out better than I thought it would.

>>97495325
The given reason is that the MicroSD cards or USB drives they put in there tend to be Temu-tier. If you're files for your prints are only backed up there, and then it dies, welp. It's a CYOA for retards, more or less. If you have your print files saved locally, whatever.

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Is my fep to tight? or maybe the bottom layers are not exposed long enough?

because stuff keep snapping even if the model is almost done, some times it makes it fine, others it fails at the bottom of the bath

>>97495325
It's just really cheap and slightly more prone to fail. I've lost a 28 hour print because the usb drive failed halfway through.

>>97496922
You need to relevel.

>>97495149
I'm
>>97491797
>>97492982
I meant to check where the path goes in your sliced file. Is there anything in the planned route that could be causing this behaviour? You have thin walls and the software might be doing stupid things with the infill between them. Before you start changing components like some anons are suggesting, you want to root cause where your problems are coming from. Changing more things will just introduce new variables that make it hard to understand what is happening in your machine, although there's always the chance you just get lucky and it was being caused by one of those parts.

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>>97495195
I didn’t find any stl I was looking for on the yar har app.
And when I did, the one stl would only go as far as pic related. On the plastic Horus heresy leman russ tank.

Do those stls you linked go farther? Any contact info to the creator so I can ask or commission him to make headlight versions of those track guards please?

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>>97491523
I need to see what I can adjust to make FDM supports easier to remove

>>97496922
There is the possibility that stuff sticks to the fep too hard and rips stuff off, but that will look flat, bent.

So that means going back to the same things everyone can try to help bottom layers.
It could be the transition layers, support thickness, wait time before light, lift speed, temperature

>>97496609
They arent big enough to hold anything but a few slice files, if you can stick your stl collection on one that means you dont have a need for a printer

kek James hit my eBay page with copyright claims.
to be fair I am selling their designs 1 to 1 and for a literal fraction of what they charge, but they can suck my dick. my fellow wargamers WILL get their jump packs and helmets for a reasonable price. death to Britain

>>97499144
So how does it work? If you get nuked by gwendolin, do you just ignore it and start again to sell prints/make stls, at best changing a name?

>>97499180
that's what I'm planning on yeah. eBay doesn't do anything the first time an item gets struck, they just delist it and tell you it was flagged by the IP owner and not to relist it. so naturally I'll change the listing's wording a little bit, maybe take some new pictures, and relist it. kek

>>97499217
devilish
One author I follow keeps getting nuked by them, but he just remakes his stuff on different sites every time

Man, I can't find a proper MK7 set anywhere. Only found some bits here and there. There is a shitton of great Primaris stuff as well as MK2-6, but no fucking MK7. Cursed armor mark legitimately.

Kinda makes sense now that I think of it. Mk2-6 are needed for HH, Primaris for 40k and thus MK7 is useless.

>>97491523
Still looks like shit desu
Happy that it works out for you anon, but I'd be ashamed to put something like that on the table

>>97491523
Please STOP printing FDM minis I beg pls
Every time too it's always some cope with how terrible they look "sorry my camera isn't very good today"
They look like shit dude, please just stop and use resin

>>97499725
i beg you to drink resin faggot

>>97499551
dont know why since you have no friends to play a game with

>>97497865
have you tried Resin2FDM?

>>97500919
YES
I love resin, I make entire CRISP AND HIGHLY DETAILED armies out of it in a day then drink the rest of the bottle to celebrate :)

>>97501138
the models aren't pre supported I'm just shit at removing the tree supports after printing

>>97499391
if you know where to look you can find the bestborn marines

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>>97497865
>>97491523
tried adjusting settings
how is a brand new print fresh off the printer already covered in dust and cat hair

>>97499725
>>97499551
I want to believe that I can get it right

>>97503008
Brother, brother
Please, just use resin
This is such a pointless exercise, unnecessary suffering just to end up with a model that doesn't look as good as like mid range resin machines can make

>>97503023
my resin printer is a 3 year old piece of shit and I have no facilities to print resin safely unless I print outside where the printer is exposed to direct sunlight for half of the day.

>>97497865
Maybe try resin style supports? Many youtubers swear by using them for that kind of print.

>>97503035
3 years is nothing and you dont need a dedicated fucking lab, melting plastic in your fdm produces worse fumes.
idiot.

>>97503035
I am convinced that the insane safety culture around resin stems from the fact that we're all massive nerds. The amount of aldehydes and acrylates that are actually given off in the vapours is so low that by OSHA standards you could do this shit professionally in an office space for 40 hours a week and the only PPE you'd need is safety specs and gloves
You don't see fucking film photography hipsters and arthoes donning a hazmat suit to develop film, and the MSDS for this chemicals are far more alarming than 3d resin

anyone have any of the supportless minis from arbiter minis that arent the free ones?

>>97505788
you are probably right but I've developed absolutely awful allergies ever since I started printing resin and I can't convince myself it's coincidental

>>97503035

>>97504154
>>97505788
Are right btw

>>97505788
I think it's just GW shills fearmongering.
Glade plugins are more hazardous to your health.

Would anyone be kind enough to share a pic of an actual print of any wfb scan?
Over the time I have collected tons of scans of old metal miniatures and they look good enough on pc, but I don't own a printer yet so I have no way of seeing if they'll actually print with good detail.

>>97509884
Are you in any wfb scan groups? Can I have their names please?
I’ve got the piracy app but haven’t found any somehow due to retardation.

If you’re gonna give me a list of groups to join please do it in standard encryption.

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>>97509884
Some scans are a bit rough, but when you find the good ones they print fine. Most often they look better to me in real life than on the pc.

>>97510730
looks so crisp I want to eat it

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>>97510730
Thanks! That looks really crisp damn, I wouldn't be able to tell it's a scan once it's painted.
When I look at stuff like pic related I have my doubts, but I guess 3d software lets you zoom in way more than what you'll see irl

>>97510311
Sorry, I'm not in any dedicated scan group, and desu I'm not comfortable sharing links. But it's not really that hard to find stuff. I started with tlg after the famous purges and still I've been able to find most of the stuff. Everything gets reposted in easier to access channels eventually.

>>97511417
From the pic I would call the scan mid, but some of the roughness comes from the original models not being that good to begin with, sometimes you just got some models where they reused the mold way too much.

I hope SDP and Cheesecake get fucked by GW
fucking faggots

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So I get a feeling the guy who made these files may not have been all that zealous about measuring things...

>>97515646
You can alter scale before slicing.

>>97515742
Yeah, bigger heads are printing as we speak, but still. The backpacks are actually a bigger problem, since they're mostly the right size but the lower part is 2mm short, but they'll do for the purpose (paint scheme test) and I have others to use in the future.

>>97515341
???

>>97515646
I wish there was some measuring tool included in the slicer

>>97516507
>estimate resin volume
Alternatively scale the file in meshmixer, not your slicer, it's got the editing tools.

Looking for good Epic scale (6mm) Necron Destroyer, Heavy Destroyer and Destroyer Lord.
Best I could find was in thingiverse wayback archives that are downsized 32mm scale sculpts, they printed but so fragile that desupporting hurt them and they won't survive painting.

Does anyone print torsos and or legs to fit your leftover bits from hard plastic kits? Not sure if something like that is available or if I'd have to edit some full body STLs to make it work

>>97517118
All my old bits are old space marines, if I still played 40k I'd probably do just that, but the only thing I've done with them in years is recently use a chainsword bit for a mini I printed that had a failure on it's chainsword.
I got a printer more than a couple years after ditching 40k when I decided I wanted to play but something else, so everything I've done since then is fully printed, except the aforementioned chainsword failure and I was so close to reprinting when it occurred to me that I probably had one in plastic in that dusty drawer.

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>>97516507
Didn't Lychee have one... oh, right.
I'll keep measuring in 3D Builder I guess.

>>97503622
I did try these as well in another print but I won't post it because I really don't want to trigger sensitive anons. The supports were really a lot easier to remove, but they also didn't support nearly as well. I honestly don't know how these FDM style tree supports can be as tough as they are. They weren't on my old printer, and that was with a much larger nozzle so the walls were thicker. It's even the same brand of filament, but maybe the formulation changed?

>>97518011
>but they also didn't support nearly as well.
then you didn't make the tips big enough, do not use the same SETTINGS as you would for resin printing, you only want the same STYLE of supports. every bit of the support must be much thicker.

>>97518047
you are right because I was very lazy and used some pre-supported STLs with what I thought were big chunky supports, but clearly not chunky enough to get the job done correctly. I'll have to keep experimenting, or possibly there is something I can change to make tree style supports easier to remove.

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did anyone happen to grab this guys stuff?

the link is dead, looks like the account got nuked

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I'm doing a preatorian imperial guard project and made this tank kitbash, but what are some suitable APCs (both wheeled and tracked) in a similar style?

>>97518447
Damn, that looks pretty cool. Sucks it got nuked.

What 3d printing resin is a good blend of toughness, durability and detail fidelity?
I’m getting into 3d printing because there was an incident where an angry neckbeard broke a guy’s model and got banned for it.
Guy got a replacement from the lgs manager but it sucks to see such a thing.

>>97523416
Toughness shouldn't matter, don't hndle your models roughly, no material can handle someone angrily damaging it on purpose, the benefit of printing is that replacement in that circumstance is cheap.
All resins have high detail, it's the printer that is the deciding factor and even entry levels from reputed names are excellent now. for durability you want clear resin as it fully cures post-print, opaque resins remain half-cured on the interior and over long periods of time can split and crack due to that.

>>97523435
>clear resin better than opaque resin
I need a source on this please.
I’ve bought some 3d printed models that are opaque. I’m just getting into the part of actually printing. Does this mean opaque resin eventually expires and falls apart?
Also what’s a good place to look at for actually reliable 3d printing info?
I feel like there’s so many 3d printing myths that have seeped into this side of the hobby.

>>97523466
The source is physics, resin is cured with UV, opaque barriers block UV therefore the internals of opaque resins do not get fully cured post-print.
Eventually is a matter of over a deade IIRC, it's not a major concern unless there are pockets of liquid resin trapped in hollows of the model, clear resin negates this concern entirely, full UV penetration when curing post-print gets all internal layers and any trapped liquid resin.

>>97520176
What the actual fuck is that turret about? Is that just a placeholder?

>>97523466
As the other anon says, you can end up with pockets of resin inside a thick solid print that aren't 100% cured, though thin parts are no problem, but the larger danger is with large voids inside the model that don't drain. For most infantry sized models, they aren't thick enough to worry about, but I've heard anecdotes about bad prints bursting open and leaking uncured resin onto carrying cases and gaming tables. I don't know if this happens with clear resin also, but if it's reacting to UV then it's possible that not all the UV light is passing through the clear resin, even if some visible light does. If you are concerned, print a model hollow with a drainage hole and shine a UV flashlight into the model to cure the inside, and this will save a bit of resin too.

>>97505788
It might have been warranted once upon a time; the (proprietary) resin used by the DLP machines in the early 2000s could have been made with all kinds of nasty stuff. but yeah, at this point going in for full PPE is just caution by the logic of "it's always been done this way".

>>97523435
>>97523527
I bought 3d printed stuff from Etsy as I don’t have space for a 3d printer yet.
I got some grey resin prints.
How do I know if the curing wasn’t done right?

>>97524566
You find out with time.

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>>97523690
that's how the turret looked on the real tank

>>97525691
>FDM
Oof.

>>97525739
that's the creators own example image, he does almost everything with an FDM version and only prints the FDM versions as examples for some reason

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Rate my curing station.

>>97525827
I guess it's good enough as an example of what to expect. Easier than printing and cleaning up a resin mini that you're probably just going to toss anyway. Come to think of it I almost never see creators post painted examples of any of their sculpts. It's all 3d renders.

>>97527898
>I almost never see creators post painted examples of any of their sculpts.
because when you examine the files upon download you'll see that a very large number of creators don't actually print, as you need to repair and optimize a good number of files before doing so.

>>97527914
i would say most designers for minis don't print.
and if they had to print and paint every mini before uploading, they wouldn't upload enough to eek out a paycheck.
i don't blame them, but i also wish it were different.

>>97527947
Going that far isn't necessary, just being an actual printer would educate them on how to make files you can actually print.
I've got a couple files on my thingiverse that I've never printed yet but that I knew to go over and fix voids and holes on before uploading.
The funny thing there is one of the files I have up with pictures of my print in progress and painted up finished, had someone comment complaining about a "hole" they found in the render on their slicer, so I responded asking if they have a picture of the print failing and referring them to my printing and finished photos to show there is no actual problem and they never responded to that.

>>97527914
>when you examine the files upon download
in many cases you just have to take a glance at the render, but it really is somewhat worrying when even people that charge a fair amount and have a lot of views and followers make minis that have different parts overlapping so that voids, gaps and even detailed sections are hidden from view and only create annoying difficult to support areas that should have just been solid. "Pre-supported" minis that they clearly just ran an auto-support on and called it a day is still the norm

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Question: How do these Dryads print? If anyone has printed them.
they are missing the skull and little gremlin in the branches and I think something else AND the scans are buttery as fuck
I bought the Dryads from Highland Miniatures,but still wondering about these

I've been washing and curing my minis (28mm) but they're still kinda tacky and smelly for weeks afterwards. Is this normal or do I need to wash & cure them longer? I've been doing about a minute cure on each side with a wash/cure station.

battletech/10

>>97529303
1 minute is really short isn't it? when I still resin printed I cured for ~20 minutes in my DIY cure station (a 3-gallon bucket with reflective tape on the inside and a UV turntable)

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finished printing my first frostgrave warband

>>97529303
depends on the resin. Also depends on how filthy the IPA (and if its even 91%+) is. If this is a new problem maybe its time to change the liquid? Could also just be that your cure station blows

>>97529702
>cure station
NTA but I use the two jar method of 90% ISO and never have the tacky problem, so he's definitely got dirty ISO and isn't doing a double wash.
Cleaning/cure stations are a horrendous waste of money, two empty jars and a UV flashlight in some rig like anon shows here >>97527188 or other anon describes here >>97529412
It's stupid cheap and does the job just as well without taking up the space of an entire printer by itself.

>>97530447
Yeah my iso is a bit dirt, but I had the issue even when it was clean. In fact now that I think about it, I was sun-tanning my minis before I bought the cure station and certain minis would still be tacky after days outside. I'm starting to suspect temperature or humidity.

>>97530447
I'm gonna try this two jar method. I assume you have a bulk "dirty" jar and a second clean jar with a small amount of ISO that you dump back into the big jar afterwards right?

>>97530541
no, you clean with ISO, then you put the mini into a totally different and cleaner batch of ISO to clean again.
As I said, I use jars, and a fully submerged swirl goes for at least a couple minutes per jar and I dunk them in a tub of water between.
every kilogram bottle of resin I go through jar number 1 gets disposed of and jar number 2 becomes to the new number one and a fresh jar of brand new iso becomes the new jar number 2.

>>97530578
both are the same volume ISO, but yes 1 is "dirty" and the other is "clean".