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>>97626264
kek

>>97628070
Mmmmm, tasty resin.

I caved and bought some gooner stls

>>97629849
>gooner stls
based
>bought
cringe

Any recommendations for Necromunda Zone Mortalis terrain files?

>>97629849
>>97630513
cringe

>>97629849
Which ones?

>>97633415
There were a few different artists who currently have their work discounted through one of the major STL vendors. Nothing super bad or unusual, but gooner enough that it'd make people uncomfortable at the gaming table.

Have any of you printed scans of old metal minis?

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>>97635815
Yes, works pretty well. Scans can look super rough on your screen but they're indistinguishable from the real deal when painted.

I am looking for a few classic dwarves like Old Realm Forge's. Anyone know a maker like that?
I only need 2-3 models, like one with a spear or two handed weapon, one with anything ranged and a magic user. For this few I wouldn't want to buy whole units of them from Old Realm Forge.

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>>97635815
Yea they usually come out pretty well
Also yea I do recommend compressing the model sizes on them, anymore than 25-35 mb is usually too much unused data, these models where only so detailed and super high end scanners usually make the file sizes for the meshes way higher than they should be

>>97628070
Before putting in the lights I would have pulled out the turntable and taped off the vents and holes then black primer followed by few layers of mirror paint and do the back of the door as well.

>>97628070
How did you 3d print an entire microwave

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>>97638863
>Extrusion, eh? Nudge nudge! A bit of the old fused deposition modeling, know what I mean? Say no more!
>Is your 'nozzle' 0.4 millimeters? Say no more, say no more! Does it do it overnight? While the wife’s asleep? Nudge nudge! Snap-crackle-pop, out comes a microwave! A 'quick heat,' is it? A bit of 'micro-waving,' eh? Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more!
>Does it... vibrate? Does it have a 'heated bed,' eh? Nudge nudge! Wink wink! A 'hot end'? I bet it does! I bet it does! A bit of 'support material' for the tricky bits, squire? Know what I mean?

>>97638840
Door is taped, same as the turntable. Rest will get foil taped after the lights are put on the back. No real rush since it works just fine as is.

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How do I dispose of my dirty alcohol that I used to wash my prints?

I have a mercury wash and cure station and I've been using the plastic tub it comes with. reddit and the internet would tell me to "dispose of it properly at my nearest waste management plant" or some shit but I'm thinking I can just dump it in the vacant lot full of weeds behind my house.

My last print

>>97628070
Is this some kind of meme? do you microwave your prints to cure them or something? why not just use a curing station or UV light box?

>>97635815
yes. I usually give them a look over before printing, see if there are any noticable flaws or scanner resulpts. Usually they are fine.
I''ve even scanned some old sculpts myself, and some stuff that's just OOP. Prepping for a good scan and the cleanup afterwards, at least with my diy setup, can get tedious, but it's surprisingly rewarding.

>>97642309
Transfer the dirty alchohol to a 5 gallon bucket, take it to your municipal hazardous waste disposal facility and tell them what's in it.
If you are lazy, you can sit the uncovered bucket in the sun to let the alchohol evaporate, which will leave you with a hazardous resin mush that you'll still have to take yo hazardous waste disposal.
Of you just dump it, you're just adding it to the local water supply and might as well drink it straight from the wash and cure station.

>>97642309
burn it, outside.

>>97642357
I think I'm gonna go with option B but either scoop out the mush and leave it in the sun for a few days to let it cure then dump it. ty

has anyone printed a scan from Strange Dark Place and if so what was the quality like? is it better than the quality you see in most scans or was it noticeably better?

Does paint help cover up the layer lines from a FDM printer? Does anyone here have any mini's that were made with a FDM printer?

>>97642548
don't scoop it out, let it settle then set your jar in the sun to cure the mush, then pull out the solid remains, reuse alcohol after.

>>97642738
I'm not using a glass jar, I use a platic bin with a snap-on lid. I'm letting it settle right now, should I leave it in direct sun anyway? The solidified resin at the bottom won't get stuck, will it?

>>97642738
I got 2 wash buckets with the spinny thing for my cure station. For my qst wash bucket should I dump into a jar and then do this or if just set in sun it will fuck up the spinner?

>>97642887
if it's clear plastic I don't see why not.
>>97642920
if you can dump it all out without leaving gunk behind I also don't see why not.

I've always used the two jar method, one "dirty" and one "clean" then a plastic container for the hot water bath between and after jars. Personally I think wash/cure stations are a waste of money, if they didn't cost as much or more than a printer, sure, but they're retarded expensive considering the disparity of utility between them and the printer.

How do we make mechanical assemblies?

>>97642952
The one thing to remember about clear plastic is it's plastic, so if you get REALLY hot sunny days you could cause melting or deformation, and in general you're shortening the lifespan of the container thanks to the UV.

You can get a giant glass cookie/pasta jar off Amazon for like 15 quid/20 bucks, there's no reason to use anything else.

>>97643008
>buy an empty jar
What?? Use a jar from something you've bought like sauerkraut, pickled eggs or pasta sauce

>>97642551
i've posted a couple of them. back in the last thread check the darkwater prints

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moving my shit to a big drive

>>97642952
I got mine with my printer 2nd hand so practically free. Added a second bucket to be dip first first get most of gunk before a proper wash. The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up

I think ill just dump into a glass jar when it gets too gross and just cure that


Including the printer, station and gear, bucket, resin and ipa ive spent 200. Mars 3 pro and I guess its a 2nd Gen cure station.

>>97643140
>The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up
Just swirl the jar

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Im starting to run out of things to print anons. I spent weeks printing nonstop, building my army. But i've found all I care for and printed out 90%. Theres close to nothing left to pront.

I've been collecting some STLs for awhile, and I always opted to get the non-supported versions (smaller filesize). Is auto support software good or did I fuck myself over?

>>97646040
Why stop at one army? Hell why even stop at one game?

>>97646378
Mostly just cause I dont really care about other armies/games. Its another set of rules/characters to learn, things to paint, and STL's to acquire. Although I guess I could spec into terrain if I really cared, sanding down the support scars are going to be a bitch for that though

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>>97646760
Make gooner statutes so your army can have some hoes.

>>97646760
Still new to 40K I see, don't worry you'll get burnt out when the next edition renders your army unplayable and then rather than redo it or start a new one you'll find yourself switching to either smaller specialist games from GW (epic/necromunda/kill team/blood bowl) or a game from an entirely different company (likely battletech for the stability, rules largely unchanged in 40 years).
If/when you do switch you'll find that a lower modell count (anywhere from 4 min to 30 max) means you can dip your toe in ALL the options for either one game, or a little bit for each game, and still come out with less model investment than a single 40k army.

about to finish a series of long prints and I don't know what to print next. feels wasteful to let the machine idle but I'm also printing far faster than I'm able to paint.

After many issues with first layer ripples I've finally got my z-offset nailed down, I was off by 0.01 fucking millimetres.

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/r/equesting pics of prints done with Anycubic Photon Mono 4. from what I've seen in archive and utube the quality is suspiciously great for the price even tho it's an "old" starter printer. and names of used resins of course.

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>>97655906
It is great, with antialiasing on of course and fine tune your settings for thinner layers as it can handle them.
this is 6mm scale, used anycubic standard clear.

Anybody ever used an Etsy 3d printing service?
What keywords should I look out for? Do they generally just print anything a person requests they do for a fee?

What are the general metrics of which they charge for?

And does anybody know of any good 3D printing Etsy services in Canada speaking from experience?

Pics can help illustrate authenticity.

>>97658238
Buying from Etsy and having bullshit troubles with the prints I got like being scaled wrong is the entire fucking reason I bought my own printer to begin with.
It is cheaper, easier and faster in the long run.
even if you only ever plan to print 30 or fewer 28mm minis it is cheaper, easier and faster to just get your own printer.

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>>97658238
>>97658312
The minis on the left amd right are what I was ordering (a set of 16) the center mini is the size I wanted them (28mm scale, bog fucking standard) first time the seller sends me 32 of the midgets on the left, second time 16 of the giants on the right, then refused to even try a third time accusing me of milking for free replacements (I offered to return the failures).
As you can see I did make them work, the midgets as a smaller scale mirror match for teaching the game with a custom small board, the giants as a female ultramarines theme to explain their ridiculous size.

>>97658312
Alright then.
For a beginner into 40k mostly Imperial Guard, and a total beginner to 3D printing what resin printer should I get?
The most idiot proof just works low maintenance one if possible too.

>>97658654
the photon mono 4 mentioned above is high quality, cheap and you'll never need anything different. Though be aware that after a few years some parts may need to be replaced, but it's no harder than building a PC to do that.

>>97658664
Thanks I checked above.
Any significant differences between the regular and ultra version and lastly any information I should be wary of before buying it?
Best "hard plastic grey" resin?

>>97658716
I dont know the ultra but i know the standard and I don't see any print lines with antialiasing, so who needs more than that?
And no resin will pass for plastic, so clear is best for curing purposes.
Use the free Lychee slicer, make sure to tune your layer height settings, there will be youtube videos on this, exposure times and such are listed on the bottles of resin.

>>97658716
>>97658754
Oh also get on telegram and find a channel/group for 40k stl's and then keep looking for a guardsmen specific channel, telegrams search for channels is fucked so you may be at it awhile, but once you have one you're good to go.

Does anyone else just watch their FDM printer while it's working entranced by the process? Not an entire ten hour cycle mind you, but I can lose 30 minutes doing so easy.

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Like most people i assume i cant afford the prusa ht90 even if it is the coolest looking 3d printer.
Any reason i should not get the core L over the equivelent bambu or whatever chinese brand is hot right now? I like the open source commitment and they seem to be just as good as anything else in that class.

>>97658754
>>97658760
Thanks!
One more thing.
How much maintenance on my end will this printer require?
I mean like cleanup that isn't the supports for the prints.
I vaguely remember something about nozzles. It isn't that big of a problem?
Are Air purifiers recommended as well too?

Hey frens.
My bro printed me a necron warrior. He's scuffed as hell, but I can see the potential. the idea of owning my own Biotransference furnace is giving me an incredible erection.
What printer should I buy?
I want to print with all plastics, not just the simple ones.
As cheap as possible I'm a poorfag.

>>97659877
nozzles are the other kind of printer.

>>97659877
if you've got air worries, open a window when it's running.
For cleaning you'll want either a well lit windowsill (and a pice of cardboard to put your prints on at it) or a UV flashlight (USB rechargeable), you'll also need a couple glass jars to fill with Isopropyl Alcohol for a two step rinse clean after printing. Swirl the prints in jar 1 for a minute, then take them out and shake off excess alcohol and do the same with jar 2, label them so you can tell which is which until they've been used awhile. remove supports in hot water BEFORE you cure the prints further with UV flashlight or windowsill sunlight.

any keyword recommendations for flight stand scenery on yeggi, like a tree that a stand can slot into to high it on the base.

>>97661074
decide on your printing technology first
>FDM (extruding plastic)
lower detail but cheaper and easier. great for terrain and accessories. can work for miniatures with a lot of effort and post-processing, but will never be on-par with resin.
>SLA (UV sensitive resins)
capable of incredible detail, far exceeding injection molded plastics, but needs more gear, more setup, and more safety procedures. You will poison yourself if you are careless, or develop permanent sensitivities to the chemicals involved.

>>97658754
>no resin will pass for plastic
No cheap resin will.
>clear is best for curing purposes
Oh. It's you.

>>97659877
Be careful with the advice that you get here anon. Not everyone is as helpful as they appear to be. Trust but verify, trust but verify.

>>97664392
I will go with extruding of course. I should have written this in a previous post, sorry. I'm fine with post-processing.

>>97664392
>far exceeding injection molded plastics
Fr? Wow. Oh well even if I had enough money resin is logistically impossible to me.

>>97664742
it's shilled lot, but the bambu printers or their clones, and a replacement 0.2mm nozzle, are really nice, very easy to use. The generic open source slicer software, Orca, runs natively on linux and is easy to use, with reasonable default settings for most every printer and filament on the market. Filament printing has advanced really fast in the past few years and it's great.

>resin detail
top end home resin printers can accurately print details down to ~2 microns. It's fucking nuts.

>>97664795
Thx for the advise.
I was hoping this tread would have like a list of most popular models but it's fine.

>replacement 0.2mm nozzle
Yea my bro just got one. We will try it.

>down to ~2 microns
Damn. That's comparable with actually expensive metalworking machines even. Good stuff.

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>>97664826
this thread doesn't really like filament printers a whole lot because we are snobs for quality truthfully with some primer and 8000 grit sanders, I think FDM miniatures are perfectly fine for the tabletop. You won't be able to see the 0.06mm layer lines from the usual tabletop distance of 2-3 feet away, and while ~3.5 hours for a single mini is very slow compared to resin, how fast are you painting really? Unless you want to try printing entire armies as a side hustle...

I have personally used three printers in total
>anycubic photon m3 (resin)
>anycubic kobra neo (filament)
>bambu labs a1 mini (filament)

I've really enjoyed using the last one but don't have a ton of great things to say about the other two.

>>97665205
I personally don't have anything against FDM; if that's what you've got to work with, work with it. I think you'd be nuts to pick one over a resin printer if your reason for getting into printing is to make miniatures though (resin isn't that much more expensive now).

>>97665205
>spoiler
Depends on the scale and if you even can sandpaper things. Certain minis have printlines in places you really won't be able to reach easily.

>>97665205
FDM is fun for just the ease of use and versatility. Can do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS. There's even a water soluble filament called PVA that's like 3 times as expensive, but works phenomenally for supports and lets you larp having a resin printer. Changing filament is also a lot easier than setting up a new vat, and as far as I know, the only way you're getting more than two colors on a resin printer is a polyjet printer worth 15 grand or more.

If "all" you're going to do is minis or you can afford two printers, then definitely get a resin one, but don't sleep on the other uses for FDM. My wife's coworkers keep sending her home with orders for these fidgets I've been selling for 20 bucks a pop. It's like an illegal drug ring for self-diagnosing Tiktokers.

>>97669426
>ease of use
>ABS
Lmao.
>multicolor prints!
Strawman, no one is printing shit to not paint it here.
tuning a machine for a different resin is the same as tuning a machine for a different filament, except the resin doesn't require you to tape up your build plate and buy an insulated enclosure to maybe make some materials work.
Resin printers also have specific tunings that are listed on the bottles, FDM can't have that, your machines z-offset is going to be different from mine.

>>97669584
>Strawman, no one is printing shit to not paint it here.
I acknowledged that resin is best for minis, no? Nobody's cranking out articulated dragons for renfaire on a resin printer, though. You load up 4 different dual color/rainbow shift 1kg rolls and just let the printer run.
>tuning a machine for a different resin is the same as tuning a machine for a different filament
When you shift types, not color. Even then, the only thing you really need to change is the preset, as the common filaments are all set to go in most programs. It's a box in the slicer. Mom could do it. You don't need to put gloves on to swap out a spool.
>except the resin doesn't require you to tape up your build plate and buy an insulated enclosure to maybe make some materials work.
You only need to do that shit with ABS, which is overkill for most projects and definitely not great for minis.
PLA and PETG are fine and require no filtration. You're not getting anything out of it you're not already getting from the 2 liter bottle of Mountain Dew.
>FDM can't have that, your machines z-offset is going to be different from mine.
That's a calibration you do once and it's good for all filaments. Easy as shit too. you just print a one-layer square and see if you get uniform lines.

>>97669671
>dual color/rainbow shift
Meme trash, again, no one here is printing things and not painting them.
>muh cubic construction lifesize props
Also a meme that maybe one in a million users will actually ever attempt, much less pull off with all the gap filling necessary. I've seen precisely one of those, in a 3d printing store and it was a hot pink masterchief with terribly obvious connection lines on all the cube sections, not even the pros doing it for advertising could be assed to do it right.
>you need to do overkill prep for ABS
Yes, I did hint at this ridiculousness.
>one time calibration, good for all filaments
No the fuck it isn't, I have to reset my z with every change of filament, even two different PLA's require a fine tuning by +/- 0.01mm, and my first layer ALWAYS has to be 0.01 lower than the rest of my print, which means sitting there watching it go until the first layer is done to adjust that offset the moment it switches to layer 2.

>>97669704
> have to reset my z with every change of filament, even two different PLA's require a fine tuning by +/- 0.01mm
Your machine must be really finicky, or something is actually loose and it's just correlated with filament changes. AD5X has been serving me well. Had to change z offset once because the factory default was just way too close.

>>97669727
"Finicky" is a snarky way of saying "precise" here.
you must not be doing 0.1mm layer heights on a 0.2 nozzle.

>>97669733
Sure am. I tried adaptable layers but it seemed like more of a headache than it was worth and having gradient lines is even more obvious than just having a million uniform little ones.
I do .1 mm with a .15mm first layer for whatever big-boobied anime girl I want, then .2 mm for "huhuh, spiked penis fidget."

z offset is just how far the nozzle is from where it's spitting the stuff. It shouldn't be changing from one PLA spool to the next.

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Printed some tops for my Duneriders. I got them used, so there's no extra bits to speak of, but I kind of really dig the custom turret I found.

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How viable is it to rip models from video games, do some processing in Blender, and make them printable bits?

>>97659621
yes, but it's more that started long ago where you had to watch the 1st layer be deposited to make sure it wouldn't fail the print.
Timelapses are definitely fun.

>>97671987
lots of people do it already. most video game models are low poly and not designed for 3d printing so they need significant clean up

>>97670224
not to criticize you personally but those tanks look fucking gay. the fuck was gw thinking

>>97665205
The supports are the main issue for me, I've printed support-less minis with a 0.2 nozzle and was really pleased with how they came out but anything small that needs supports comes out a mess.

>>97674129
resin-style supports have helped a lot, but you are right about supportless. supportless models are amazing and print really fast too.

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>>97673273
They're definitely a choice I have to live with. Admech isn't popular enough to have a whole lot of options for 3d printed alternatives. I've seen some sort of shitty spidertank from Stationforge or something, and I really don't like it. I will say, however, as stupid as my tanks look, the real GW turret looks even stupider.

Oye, I got a bunch of metal WF models. That chainmail is not in current models.IDK if the generic chainmail infantry is not scanned, but serious question:

You get the fabled 6 army no paint, all assembly, someoneone quitting and they have metal models, am I supposed to like try to scan them?

Just trying to like, vibe out if I have a responsibility to the community? If it's tg no one cares, but keeping the models in infinite is something the oldschool players do so I thought I'd pick ya brains

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>>97674486
Pic for example, legit dont know if this is some oldhammer scan want or not, I've just gotten a lot of good advice here(I love youa schizo fume-anon) and just wanted to ask is there any like, oldhammer telegram channels where i can either have scans be yoinked, or be told how to make them clearer? I got so much bs I just don't wanna waste metal models sculpts

/diy/ fdm tourist here with a question on functional sla prints: i'm leaning towards buying formlabs tough 2000 v2 resin which apparently is significantly ahead of the other abs-like resins on the market. whats the catch if i use this on a cheaper printer like anycubic instead of their $5k form 4 (given that i tune it precisely), print speed? predictable warp/consistency?

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I've been looking for Goa'uld ships or at least pyramid looking ships for thigs like void admiral or battle fleet gothic and so far outside of necron ships I have had no luck.
Any other idea where I could look for something like that?

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>>97675853
I use these in Star Trek Attack Wing.

>>97675591
the only difference is you save $4700-$4800, UV light is UV light.

>>97675591
You give up on their tuning and have to, more or less, tune the print parameters yourself. Exposure mostly. Not dialling in that properly can reduce print speed, cause failed prints, and/or make the detail either too faint or bloated. (Warping in resin is either something he material decides to do largely regardless of your input, or a matter of the supports rather than the resin-related settings.) Unless you absolutely have to squeeze out every ounce of speed (for a print you''ll start and forget about for however many hours it takes) it usually isn't very hard though. Paying 5k to have them do it for you is just absurd.

>>97676240
>UV light is UV light.
Just about every consumer printer around uses a 405nm "UV" light source, and while most printing resins have been optimised for that there are some that prefer or outright demand proper UV in the 385nm region instead. So even if we only look at the realm of 3D resin printing there's a difference between UV and UV that we, occasionally, may need to be aware of.

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How do you do the allegedly most-PLA-compatible stuff in PLA? i've tried a chimera and a knight questoris after hearing IG and IK were the best possible armies for such a thing but my attempts have gone terribly.

>>97677140
How are those terrible?

>>97677140
I wouldnt be so sure about Knights. All my experience is resin so take it with a grain of salt. There is a strong chance you could make 90% of them out of filament but knights also have a bunch of tiny stuff like pistons/flags/railings that probably dont translate the best to filament.

>>97675591
Generally speaking, the difference between the cheap Chinese printers and the expensive commercial ones are parts quality (not really an issue for the home gamer) and QoL improvements that make them easier for an absolute beginner to use, since the commercial machines are designed for, you know, commerce, not hobbyists.

Those high end resins are trickier to print with than the basic bitch stuff on Amazon. The temperature requirements are somewhat stringent and your settings must be dialed in pretty well or you'll have all sorts of problems. That Formlabs takes care of all of that for you. If you're willing to learn, you can make it work on a hobby machine too but it requires some thought and work.

There's a third way that's almost the best of both worlds: mix some high end resin into your cheap stuff. This significantly reduces the cost of your prints versus using only expensive resin, you get at least some of the benefit of a high quality technical resin, and the printing process is much more forgiving. I personally use 1:5 Siraya Tenacious and Elegoo ABS-like. This mix will hold detail while printing easily enough (not as easy as straight Elegoo though) and while it's not as flexible as rubber, your average 28mm print will survive a trip off the table and onto a concrete floor without any issues.

>>97676308
If it cant be used in industry standard machines it isn't "high end", it's trash. Pricetag doesn't equate to quality.

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What is this pose called that I've seen before in other miniatures?
And I would appreciate links to paid for and free STL models that have this pose too please.

>>97676012
I have no idea what those are.

>>97678233
the original miniature was named "slambo" but since that is a GW name you won't find a lot of results searching that name that haven't already been removed. It's also very similar to the milton bradley hero quest chaos warrior and very much designed for a simple two-part mold

>>97678233
The pose itself I would describe as "axes akimbo"; are you looking for Slambo specifically or just minis dual wielding stuff? I know I've seen at least 1 Slambo knockoff under something like "Chaos Slam champion" while I was looking for HQ stuff.

>>97676240
>>97676308
>>97677619
thanks anons but holy shit you can mix resins like that without issues? always thought stuff had different cure profiles (or even the underlying chemistry mismatch itself). tough 2000 v2 1L costs almost a budget printer would be crazy if a budget synthetic resin could do 80% of its properties

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Just got my bambu p2s. I cant decide whether to print steel legion and orks for epic 40k 3rd edition or warmaster empire and orcs/goblins. For now printing some empire 10mm halberdiers

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>>97679803
>or just minis dual wielding stuff?
Basically that.
I've got other examples of models in that pose that seems to reference the slambo pose.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-lord-of-the-forge-old-infernal-dwarves-724983
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-priest-dungeon-562652
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-liebling-undead-berserker-722536

I just think it would be cute to have a shelf of minis in that pose.

>>97680789
Looking good, was it hard to print 10mm stuff on a FDM machine?

>>97680789
man, what the fuck, how are some of those details even there on 10mm with a filament printer
have I been out of the loop with those things so badly?

>>97680666
the properties that matter are done just as well by a $30 kilogram bottle of resin.
Your absolute best "ABS-like" is still going to be weaker than standard PLA filament, you do not print in resin to produce functional working objects, resin printing is for detailed aesthetics items, it is best suited to the production of scale models and miniatures for gaming, it has niche uses in other settings like anattomical models for a doctors office and such, but resin is really quite niche. For the kind of things non-gamers want printed FDM is the technology needed.

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Got a question about sanding 3D prints. I know that resin dust is dangerous if inhaled, how do I stop from carrying it into living spaces in my house where it can get blown into the air and inhaled by my family members and pets? I have a dedicated room for modeling work, but how concerned do I have to be about keeping the resin dust contained to just the working area, and preventing it from becoming a problem in the future? Do I just regularly mist the working area to catch aerosolized particles, do a complete wet sand, or what?

>>97683944
wet sanding will control the dust, or if you are using files you can fill your sink with water and hold the model underwater

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>>97682207
Literally the first day using it. I just inputted the settings I found. I have experience with resin but it didnt matter. I just installed the .2 nozzle and printed them.
>>97682220
I was actually surprised it was that good as well. The faces aren't great but at that scale no one will notice.

>>97682220
FDM technology is arguably improving by faster increments than Resin. Resin already won the sprinting race in terms of model fidelity/detail but at the expense of all of the other issues involving resin printing. FDM printing meanwhile has kept improving it's details alongside other aspects. It doesn't help that people in these threads will jump on people posting FDM prints in an attempt to tribalise their choice in printer as the objectively better one. Resin is just fine if you want the super high detail and are okay with the maintenance/post-processing etc but FDM has been slowly chipping away at the things that hold it back.

While everyone's been busy looking elsewhere you can now buy out-of-the-box precalibrated printers with sufficiently small nozzles etc that they can actually compete with the small scale stuff for reasonable prices and it's likely going to continue improving. Think about where FDM printing was like 5 years ago compared to now and contemplate a comparable improvement over the next 5 years. Even only half as much of an improvement would still be phenomenal.

>>97684698
The second option was kind of where I was leaning, just grab a big bowl, fill it about halfway with water, dunk the pieces in, and sand entirely underwater. I just wasn't sure if that was a normal practice, or if I was being overly paranoid, or if there was a better method, or whatnot.

>>97684762
incredible results. I've been pretty impressed by my a1 mini but haven't quite got that sort of quality out of it.

>>97684786
I personally think resin hit the practical ceiling in terms of quality years ago and I don't know if there is a reasonable way to make resin prints faster either, and it is far behind FDM in terms of ease of use

>>97674597
>>97675853
>>97676012
>>97677140
take your badly painted shit and fuck off you retard

>>97684819
I'm not going to judge on that front since I've not kept an eye on resin printers to the same degree I expect most resin printer owners aren't looking at FDM. Personally I don't think there's any real point to further model fidelity/detail because, really, how many people are going to be skilled enough to put that to use anyway? If you're a competition level painter maybe you'd want more detail but I'm certainly not one. Right now I think resin printers need to address not greater fidelity but the pain points; the dubious safety of the resin, the post-processing and maintenance issues. If they could catch up to FDM in those respects it'd be a more even playing field but right now the choices are resin printers with high model fidelity at the expense of fucking with resin vats and all that entails or FDM printers with a lower fidelity but positively braindead levels of personal effort involved.

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>>97635815
Yah a bunch

>>97684824
Meds

>>97684845
that's what I mean. High end home resin printers can already print details so fine they can't be seen by the unaided eye, so there is nothing left to improve upon for tabletop and hobby usage. To speed up resin prints they would need motors that are faster, without sacrificing accuracy, higher output screens, some way to make the very viscous resin drip faster? Features like a machine that levels itself (not just the build plate, but the whole machine), easier or automated ways to transfer the models to wash & cure, etc. It's a hard problem to solve without the cost balooning to unreasonable levels. FDM is behind on print quality still, and my experience has been that post processing can be somewhat time consuming on designs intended for resin, but it's far ahead in other respects.

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The print times are ridiculous but as a warhammer hobbyist it doesnt matter if it takes a week to print everything. Once I have it, I have it. The tradeoff is great. Less detail and longer prints is okay if I dont have to deal with the mess of resin again. I predict printing terrain with fdm is also more practical than resin.

10.5 hours to print 6 stands of the 10mm halberdiers .6 layer height and .2 nozzle

>>97684892
Word out of China is they've just discovered a way to print tiny scale complete 3d objects in milliseconds on the millimeter scale; if it could be scaled up it might be an improvement to print timers as well as a way to eliminate common issues like resin traps/hollow internals etc. Post-processing for resin is an enormous pain in the ass while post-processing for FDM is kind of trivial, depending on how you've done your supports and whether you can vapor smooth the print in question rather than using manual tools to do so.

Vapor smoothing is taking a step towards the annoying factors of resin printing however; you can absolutely do it intelligently and quickly if you set it up right but most people are doing absolute dumb shit like an upside down plastic box with magnets holding paper towels in place which are soaked in solvent so it'll offgas and smooth the part. Perhaps the dumbest fucking way imaginable to actually achieve vapor smoothing IMO when you can just get an oversized metal pot, a metal spacer block and pour your solvent of choice inside and heat it on a portable induction stovetop. Heat the solvent until it offgasses high enough to cover your FDM printed part which sits ontop of the spacer block and then stop heating.

Right now it's a choice of which you prioritise; model fidelity or personal time/safety. There's also the aspect that a lot of resins are absolutely dogshit to work with after being cured which makes them annoying to kitbash/modify after the fact while FDM leaves around microplastics so that's a consideration also.

>>97684943
Most people agree that for terrain you want an FDM printer. Personally I still prefer the aesthetic of using foam but it has a lot of appeal to me, plus I'm not really doing any buildings for terrain either.

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>>97684949
I dont know if I want to print hills or make them from foam. I know I'll be printing castles, windmills, taverns and houses for sure.

I think the scale of 10mm allows for a more creative, narrative and beautiful ganing board compared to 28mm.

Here's an epic scaled 6mm ork boy. It's not as detailed as I'd like but at that size it hardly matters. I still think I'll be ordering my infantry models from a resin printer shop. The vehicles at 6mm are fine to print on fdm. I think im very happy with the results for 10mm warmaster tho.

>>97685120
I assume the layer lines are not as apparent IRL, and/or paint will hide it as well?
I wonder how well 15mm works.

>>97684944
Different anon, but I'm always surprised at how much people say post processing is harder for resin. I'm a lazy fuck, so I'll always choose the path of least resistance.
For resin, I put on gloves, pop models off the build plate, peel off supports by hand, throw them in the fry basket and dunk them in the washer, let them dry for a couple of hours, then later on throw them in the UV turntable. Whole process is maybe 5 minutes either side of an hour of vidya, for 1-2 squads of minis.
For my FDM printer, I have to spend times worse than even geedubs minis clipping off supports, filing away, sanding, 1 mini at a time, all to get a result which I would still be critical of.
I'm glad it works for you, but it's so, so much work that I couldn't be bothered doing. The amount I've heard people parrot the opinion makes my tinfoil hat senses tingle that GWendolin is pushing an anti-resin propaganda campaign so they can spot prints easier.

>>97685188
maybe it was my setup, but my experience with resin post processing was that while removing supports was easier, it was a lot more annoying with more steps involved and more hazards

>put on PPE
>use metal paint scraper to get the models off the build plate
>2 to 6 cycles of the ultra sonic cleaner, 3 min each
>the dirtier the iso is the more time this takes
>just sit there and wait because I can't really do anything with the PPE and dirty gloves on
>into bucket of warm water to rinse excess and peel off supports
>set up shitty DIY curing station
>if it's not large enough to cure all at once then it's a real pain in the ass
>can remove PPE once the curing is started
>cure the dirty water in the bucket after
>put the cured water down the toilet and the cured models into the hobby area
>need to vent entire home afterwords
>primer
>paint

vs
>clip away the supports (surprisingly time consuming but I like to do it while watching videos)
>use files and the battery powered rotary tool
>primer
>2nd pass with sanders makes a massive difference and isn't something I'll be skipping again
>paint

tree supports chipped my single bladed nippers...

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>>97685130
It's so small cant even tell. Honestly when im not looking at it from 6 inches away it's fine. Im looking at it from normal distance and it looks like the resin ones I printed 2 years ago. The downside it took an hour to print just the one 6mm ork. Not worth it I think. Ill print gargants and vehicles for sure but not the infantry. Ill order those.

I think ill focus on warmaster first over the next couple months and then once that is completed ill hop over to epic 40k steel legion vs orks on armageddon.

>>97685243
Yeah, I think a wash and cure machine takes away 90% of your problems, especially if you're having to wait around with PPE on with a DIY setup, and they cost about the same as 2 boxes of minis. You're right that maybe 1 or 2 times a year, you might need to refresh your cleaning alcohol, but I'd consider that less work than resolving a hot-end clog, which would happen about the same frequency depending on printer.
For ventilation, all my printers, FDM and resin, are in a negative pressure fume cupboard. I wouldn't chance FDM fumes being less dangerous just because they smell less unpleasant.

>>97685290
>The downside it took an hour to print just the one 6mm ork.
Interesting, for me a 28mm mini takes that long.

>>97685344
Maybe due to settings. .6 layer from a .2 nozzle probably doesnt help the speeds.

>>97685188
Not at all the experience I have with my FDM printer's post-processing. All my supports peel off in one complete section and then it's maybe 10 seconds of selectively going over it with a light and a pair of clippers and tweezers to remove any unwanted rough bits.

>>97685243
Everyone says to use tree supports but in my experience they're so much harder to remove and leave far worse surface scarring behind compared to normal supports. Normal supports practically peel right off the mini 95% of the time and leave nearly nothing behind. Tree supports feel like a disinformation meme or some shit.

>>97685130
NTA but doing my 32mm scale minis I give them an initial layer of clear varnish which knocks down almost all of the layer lines on the rare occasion they are present. It also makes primer coating a lot easier since otherwise the mini will absorb a lot more paint.

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>>97684859
epic comeback you low iq retard

>>97684851
Every scans I've found looks lumpy

>>97685811
people recommend tree supports because they "just work" and the slicer can do them automatically. In my case, I chose them as a compromise because printing the same part with resin-style supports would have taken over two days to complete.

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Hello lads. Does anyone have an stl for this praetor of sons of horus? I want to use him for kitbash but lowkey don't want to pay 40 bucks to geedubs for just a few parts I really need (head, torso and maybe shoulders).

>>97686279
1. scans all kind of look soft until you print them. unless it's a particularly bad scan, it will look normal after it's printed (I'll take some pics of scans I've printed in a little bit)
2. old metal minis are just lumpy in general. even the originals are lumpy. funny enough the scans of older shit tend to be higher quality, it's just the minis' sculpts themselves don't lend themselves to being scanned very well

>>97686464
If you're just looking for a cheap way to get one, consider tracking down one of the many independent recast sites or aliexpress sellers. That's what I went with for mine and it came out fine.

I truly didn't know finding stls would be THIS hard 'fore I got the p2s. Goddamn. Telegram is beyond shit. Every channel is deleted, there are no online repositories or torrents and such. How do I find STLs anons?

>>97686279
They usually look better when you actually print them

>>97688251
Yeah, I believe I just found one. The price they ask for it is very reasonable but the shipping costs (I am from a 3rd world shithole) would probably be the same as the miniature. That's why I am trying to find an STL.

>>97686424
Normal supports "just work" for me as well. Genuinely recommend giving them a try, you might find they're better off for you. Tree supports were either massively harder to remove and actually snapped parts off or left behind insane levels of scarring that made my post-processing take too long. Normal supports leave next to nothing behind comparatively.

>>97690322
I generally been using resin style supports, that part was a special case because it was very large and tree supports reduced the printing time from 54 hours to 27 hours.

>>97688325
by using the search bar.

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Is every cult file like this or I'm just unlucky?
Things have more holes than a Syrian child

>>97691111
I'd rather not plug and play your ass, anon

>>97691125
Joke aside. I only go for things that I see a printed model, and still get this errors.
What am I missing here.

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Update if anyone cares. Crossbows printed. Gunna print another batch of crossbows. Life's good. That is all.

>>97691134
plenty of shit prints fine with "errors" I run the repair tool and ignore anything it says it missed.

>>97691373
This. Just print.

Has anyone printed any Highlands miniatures stuff? I'm trying to figure out if I should scale them down to 92.5% or 95%.

>>97691111
I just paid for one that had holes and a lot of gaps after I put the pieces together. I'm going on a printing binge this week, so I'm more looking into printing things I generate in Meshy than spending 20 bucks for a model that isn't ready to print, from an IP that doesn't even belong to the fucking artist.

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>>97691373
>>97691950
So just print it and ignore the red warning?

>>97691950
>muh IP rights
Kek. Boomer mentality.

>>97690647
which one?

>>97692067
Yeah, just print the suckers. Lychee is super paranoid about "errors" and 99.9% of the time the model will print absolutely fine. If you're really concerned load it into Microsoft 3D builder and run the repair tool in that; it will fix the mesh to a standard even Lychee won't get in a tizz about, and only if there's any fundamental, obvious flaws with the mesh that it can't fix, there's a problem with the model (and even that might be something like flipped normals that can be fixed in Blender with bare minimum knowledge/effort).
Honestly the biggest problems are things Lychee DOESN'T detect, like enclosed voids in the model that can't drain.

>>97692216
>enclosed voids in the model that can't drain.
Clear resin fixes this.

>>97692216
>Microsoft 3D builder
>unavailable in your market
Motherfucker
>enclosed voids in the model that can't drain
Wait I thought the holes in lychee was talking about those. What hole is it talking about then?

>>97692401
You can side-load 3D builder, it's a bit awkward but it is possible. I forget the exact process.
And the holes it's talking about are literal holes in the mesh; that is, the model isn't manifold. Usually any that Lychee doesn't fix are literally too small to actually affect or even appear in the print without a microscope.
Also word of advice, if you're using (reliable, tested by creator) pre-supported models and it throws up errors don't press the fix button. It's detecting false positives and trying to repair it could mess up the model. Found that with some Tyranid models, trying to repair it produced really weird results around the drainholes. Also the "unfixed" models printed absolutely fine anyway.

>>97691373
>>97691710
This and this
Literally just make infill 100% and print
Let Jesus take the wheel and it usually works fine
Only time "resin traps" are even an issue is on really big like dreadnought+ sized models
I have been 3d printing with resin machines for years they've only ever imploded on me, maybe three total times out of serval hundred models printed

>>97693977
>Only time "resin traps" are even an issue is on really big like dreadnought+ sized models
I would disagree with this as I had some Marine heads explode due to having resin-filled cavities, but otherwise yeah.

>>97692087
I wasn't really advocating for them, it's more that if I'm not paying the person who has them, why the fuck am I paying this other guy making fan stuff?
If the model comes ready to print, fine. Filament is expensive and prints take time. But if the model work is shoddy, and it's not your design, I might as well either generate it myself or ask around to see if I can get a ftee one.

>>97694143
>model
>filament
You are your own enemy.

>>97694010
That's just my purple ork kammando snipers landing hitting shots sorry

>>97691189
I care, anon. They look great. What colors are you going to paint them?

>>97685935
You have to be at least 13 to post here

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RQT STL Looking for the new Slann Starmaster.
Checked all current finded 3DPG Rentries (vault, stashes) and crawled the link trees — everything for Seraphon is 404 or outdated.

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>>97680789
Whose Russ model is that? Been looking for a good epic scale Russ

>>97697174
>new
thats identical to every throne slann ever

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>>97695094
<3. Going for the Talabheim's look or a similar province. Red and white is what i'm liking. going for 1000 pts. Going to add knights, cannon and handgunners next then lastly print the heroes wizard and general. Then afterwards start printing orcs.

>>97697176
look up 'epic scale main battle tank' on cults3d. there's a bunch of 6mm imperial guard vehicles.

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just (semi)impulsively bought a Saturn 4 Ultra 16k along with what i hope are all the fixings i need
i have zero (0) experience in 3d printing, much less in resin printing, beyond some autistic kid once handing me a tiny toy boat he printed on what i assume was a low-budget FDM printer, based on the quality of the boat
i do have a windowless room with fan ventilation (used to be a long-defunct bathroom, then was used as a darkroom, now back to being a defunct bathroom) and ordered an enclosure to put the printer in
can i please get a "good luck" from an anon so i don't accidentally blind myself or choke on fumes or something
also accepting personal favorite not-frequently-discussed niche tips (You) wish you knew when starting out

>>97699978
GL Anon. Put a mat under your printer and where you handle all the printed stuff. Make sure the mat has high enough walls to hold liquids but not impede you. Also make sure to have a bin with a lid to dump failures/liquids

>>97700344
>make sure to have a bin with a lid to dump failures/liquids
oh shit thanks anon, i meant to do this but completely forgor

>>97642309
I put it in the sun in a sealed glass container. The resin partially cures and precipitates out, leaving crystal clear alcohol that I can pour off and reuse. Then I pour out the dregs and let it evaporate and fully cure. Alcohol treated this way seems to leave a film on the print, so I do a final rinse in fresh alcohol and add it to the dirty jar.

Disclaimer: This may be idiotic. I am a noob.

>>97642887
It will, but if you let it fully cure after pouring out as much sludge as you can, it'll stay stuck and not hurt anything. I have two pickle jars that I alternate between.

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>>97655906
Angled to emphasize 50 uM layer lines. They are not normally this visible. Anything wrong with this print is probably my fault.

>>97700609
Oh, and this is Anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2. I'm still playing with the exposure settings.

>>97700609
Turn on antialiasing, those lines will go away.
Also you could probably go down to 25 or 20 micrometers.

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>>97697754
Yes I know, I was asking for that specific model/sculptor name.

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The hoard grows. I realized I still gotta paint all of this.

>>97700673
Ahhh sorry anon. No idea.

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Another Photon 4/ABS Pro 2.

>>97692224
Does it? I thought even clear resin was opaque to UV.

>>97697166
then why are you posting here?

>>97700609
>Anything wrong with this print is probably my fault.
printing this gay shit is obviously your fault captain obvious

>>97701057
It was requested by an 11-year-old girl.

>>97701061
someone report this ip to the authorities. clearly a pedo trying groom children with gifts.

Anyone got an STL for the Avenger Strike Fighter from forgeworld?

I see a lot of people talking about orca slicer. Ive always just used prusaslicer because ive got a prusa machine. What am i really missing, if anything? Maybe im wrong since i bought into the cult but arent most slicers forks of prusa anyways?

>>97705512
Bambu is a rebrand of Orca, which is GPL licensed. Prusa is it's own thing, idk I haven't used it. Cura sucks shit though and I'm never going back to it.

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Update. Printing knights. Failed the first time horribly 6 hours in. The built in supports (designed for resin) didnt hold and I think the models were too flimsy to and moved while the nozzle was doing its thing so there was no good contact so it turned into a cobweb mess. I think the humidity was too high as well.

The second print I was able to salvage 8 of the 10 knights. I printed only 1 stand the 3rd time with tree supports and it turned out really well. Currently printing 4 knights with supports. Hopefully works out well. Then printing out one more unit of knights before moving onto hand gunners

>>97706061
I'm curious how these small scale things will look once painted. Maybe I'll try some too myself

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>>97656022
>>97700609
>>97700749
big thank for posting! now to figure out which washing and UV station(s) to buy

>>97706061
Did you use tree supports for the infantry?

>>97642596
Paint helps, you really need a good modern printer and .2mm nozzle though. I would also recommend doing multi material prints and use PETG as the support

>>97659821
The flow control on Bambu printers is a game changer, I get basically no stringing and very few partially extruded lines, even with cheap shitty filament
Flow control sensors need to become standard like self leveling beds.

Possibly of interest, some Sunlu resin material properties testing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix9KN6CuTwg
Shame about the missing ABS-like piece impact toughness test, because the standard and PA-like bits reacted somewhat against common wisdom to extensive curing. (Spoiler: 20min cured pieces were tougher than 2min cured ones.)

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>>97628070
Why did the torrent for stls fail? Did nobody seed or something?

>>97707371
because no one wants to download 2tb of STL's at once, we want to pick and choose individual files with image previews before we download, telegram is just the better platform for delivery.

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>>97706162
I think it'll be good. When i painted my imperial fists at 6mm they looked great with yellow and a wash plus some metal detail. The scale is really a blessing when it comes to painting as washes take care of almost everything. at 10mm i can't even see the layer lines unless i get close and look for them at .06 layer height. When i get to the painting stage ill probably post in the WIP thread.
>>97706541
No tree supports needed. The infantry from forestdragon are actually designed to print without supports thankfully. The crossbow came with the resin supports in the download. luckily the models are small and light enough that if i don't fuck up the settings and keep the filament dry the resin supports will be enough.

>>97707371
>>97707537
also it doesn't give gwen your ip address

>>97691831
Where are you getting those figures? If you want to scale 32mm to 28mm, it's 87.5%.

>>97692224
Not really. The UV really only penetrates a few mm.

>>97684845
>>97684892
I got a basic bitch resin printer back in 2019 and it's too much of a pain to print with half the time. I've been thinking about getting a higher quality one, but you've got me thinking about FDM now.

>>97710865
>low quality and a hassle printing bother me
>I know! I'll trade in for lower quality and even more hassle printing, that'll fix my troubles!

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Printed these off Friday night and spent yesterday basing and making a couple modifications. Did a headswap with Chip Hazard using a scan of the prop model's head, added shoulders, shuriken and a cigar to Kip.

I picked up a Mars 05 Ultra a couple months ago, still learning how to fiddle with the settings.

>>97711201
FDM is less of a hassle to print

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>>97710865
I've certainly been enjoying FDM, even if the amount of post-processing required is comparable to building and cleaning GW plastics

my process has been
>clip off all the supports and do some sanding with files and a low-RPM rotary tool
>prime with heavy hardware store primer
>spot sand areas that need it with really fine grits in the thousands
>paint

>>97712568
You have some bad z banding, you need to clean and lube up your z axis screw. You probably also need to clean the fan that cools your hotend

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>>97674401
Makers cult did some nice ones of these a while ago, you can also swap out the front for a big cannon

>>97712568
>sanding

Nigga I can't even be bothered to scrape mold lines, fuck that shit

>>97711939
Gaslight someone else.
Resin can be plug and play, FDM cannot.
You choose wether or not resin is just a tool or a whole new hobby, FDM forces a whole new hobby on you.
>t. own both.

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Printed off the Gorgonites today.

>>97714262
No murder barbie cyborgs?

>>97713841
You're the only person I've ever heard say this.

>>97714429
Because its obvious and no one before you has needed it explained.
If you want miniatures you get resin. if you want terrain get fdm.
If you get fdm for miniatures you are iceskating uphill for the sake of the difficult challenge.
And youve heard these statements before, any denial of that is newfaggotry or more gaslighting.

>>97714709
Yeah but you cant print gun parts with resin for shit, 3d printing is mainly for gun manufacturering, toys/miniatures are for testing and side projects.
The primary reason to 3D-P is 2A

>>97713174
I like that it has treads, actually. I haven't seen this one around the admech trannygram, does a makerscult channel exist?

>>97714755
I think I can manage a .22lr revolver with ABS-like.

>>97714755
>>97714709
Maybe this would be better for the 3d thread on /diy/ but does resin have any actual use outside of art for the average enthusiast? FDM seems more generally useful if you want to make like tools or fixtures or robots/drones ect.
I know theres some use in the medical field but i doubt anyone is doing dental work for the thrill of it.

>>97715024
I've never heard of anyone using resin for anything but miniatures, art, cosplay, and dentistry

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>>97713841
>Plug in Resin printer
>Hit print
>Nothing happens

>wtf you said this was plug and play.
>What do you mean I have to put resin in the vat.
>Wait? Now what do I have to do to the model after it finally prints, put it in alcohol? but I dont drink. And after that I have to put the model in light? You mean special lights? Where do I buy those?

>What do you mean I have to drain the vat? Wait, where do I put the old resin and alcohol? Drive it somewhere or poison the local water table?

>Oh no my printer was in a room with a window, everything is broken, now what!?

>Fuck I keep getting it on my skin and now I'm itchy, it smells so bad.. What?! I have to buy gloves and masks? I have to wear those whenever I use the printer?

>I thought I just plugged it iiiiinnnn!!!!

You're a faggot bro

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>>97715069
Same. Its cool tech but it feels like it has not had any major advancements like FDM has. Maybe im not looking in the right places though.
Im not even sure what a breakthrough tech would look like. Finer resolution so you could use it for optics and electronics? Tougher material so you can make gears and structural pieces? Non toxic resin so its more approachable?
Its nice for for toys and i guess teeth but i want it to do more. It feels so close to being a scifi technology were just not at that level yet.

>>97715132
>Im not even sure what a breakthrough tech would look like
automation around the washing, support removal, and curing process. resin toxicity would be a much lesser problem if it could be a more closed system and it was only necessary to open the hood after print failures.

>>97715153
I disagree, I truly think resin toxicity is the number 1 issue.

If resin was as safe as PLA, resin printing would expand like crazy. All the other improvements people want from it would have in a matter of years simply by how ubiquitous the printers would become.

>>97715153
So you think like an all in one unit would make the biggest difference? So one machine that has a workflow like: fills resin, prints, drains resin, fills to wash prints, drains dirty wash fluid, cures print. And then restarts? Still would have to deal with a basin or resin and toxic wash fluid but i guess it would ideally lower how often youre exposed.

>>97715174
I agree with this guy more i think. If it were less toxic and dangerous to handle doing all of the steps and interacting with the print and resin would not be a big deal.
In another sense i would like the utility to match the risk and danger. If i could print resin that has the same or better properties as nylon i could justify the extra precautions needed. But to make figures and cosplay stuff i would like it to be as safe as using clay and paints.

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>>97714298
Not exactly but I do have some colonial marines.

I believe it is time for this project to leave this general. Farewell, /3dpg/.

>>97715024
Resin is more temperature and chemical resilient, and also tougher depending on the materials chosen. I've had to replace parts like rotary knobs on heaters before where no FDM would be able to withstand the heat and torque without warping.
Ironic with a lot of the responses in this thread that people accuse resinfags of being the stroppy, defensive ones. They both have their use cases, and the non-poorfag option is to simply use both, depending on when you need either. Resin is probably easier to use for minis when you consider things like tuning, which is basically eliminated for resin now, and requires less post processing to reach the same "I could take this to warhammer world and not get thrown out" fidelity.

>>97715024
Depends on the resin you use. There are some REALLY strong engineering resins out there; I use Resione's tough resins almost exclusively now, both for toys (it's tough enough I can make Figma clones entirely from resin parts) and for miniatures (due to its ridiculous strength there's no more risk of breakage than a modern GW plastic mini under normal circumstances). And I'm 99.9% certain the same resin would be good for replacing plastic mechanical parts in devices (broken plastic cogwheel in a DVD player or whatever for instance).

>>97715458
Why are you going to any GW storefront at all? Their policies are insane; just convince the people you play with to run tournaments at your own house instead. That way you can actually use decent terrain/boards as well instead of cardboard cutouts.

>>97715916
Using GW minis as your benchmark for fragility/resilience is not a good one. GW minis are notorious for breaking under even the most minimal of forces. Meanwhile I can grab something from Malifaux and drop it onto a hardwood floor and it'll survive (learned that the hard way with blessedly no damage). If you want to rate things by resiliency relative to the mini market probably the top tier is rubber-like plastics, like what Reaper Minis uses where they'll literally bounce off walls if you throw them. GW's material sciences has actually gotten worse over the years, IMO. There's current Vampire Counts models that have decent odds of surviving impacts from falls while anything freshly put out since AoS is almost certainly going to shatter.

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>>97714709
Phenomenally spastic mentality. I printed pic related today. A single clear coat on the top of the head where there was some visible layer lines and it's immediately fixed. FDM printers have closed the gap on resin printing miniatures; still not perfect but to say resin is the only option is farcical.

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>>97628070
returned my chinkshit bambu p2s and bought a snapmaker u1 and it's literally tearing me apart waiting for it to arrive from china, can't stop checking my phone. says it'd be here in 2 weeks, but I'm extremely skeptical, at least a month probably ToT. how do you cope with this feel?

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>>97715998
Clear coated the top of the head and then primed.

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>>97716020
Fully painted (I am dogshit at painting).

>>97716004
I simply force myself to forget about it until it's within 3 days of reaching me. 2 weeks is somewhat long though, I ordered mine and it got to me within 4 days and I'm in fucking Australia.

>>97715998
>>97716020
>>97716033
I can't tell if the paint is thick or the mini's surface is just that bad.
I agree though that FDM can work for minis, but good luck with swords and vertical pointy parts or stretched out arms and finer details
>FDM printers have closed the gap on resin printing miniatures
so no, just made the gap smaller than it was

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>>97716079
It can be worse, my guy. Far, far worse.

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>>97716094

>>97716038
did you get it off the snapmaker website? or are you talking about some other printer?

unfortunately that was the fastest option for me, shit take long to get from china since it has to go through customs and there were no local resellers.

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>>97716079
>but good luck with swords and vertical pointy parts or stretched out arms and finer details

idk man, I printed this on my fdm printer, .2mm nozzle at .06mm layer height

Pretty decent if you ask me

>>97716124
I bought it from Bambu directly. IDK if they shipped it from China or if they had local warehouses since they didn't offer any tracking until the day it was put on a truck to be dropped off to me.

>>97716229
They must have the printers themselves stocked in local warehouses because when I ordered, my printer came in a couple days, but the extra stuff I order came in a different package a week later

>>97716255
Four days is still within the realm of possibility from China. I've ordered shit and gotten it three days later out of China; saw the step-by-step tracking for it. Extremely rare though. More often it's 6-8 days.

>>97715080
youre retarded

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>>97716340

>>97716353
Then GTFO

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>>97716357

>>97716363
Some towering intellect there, zoomer.
No wonder you can't handle a printer. Avoid FDM, you'll burn your house down.

>>97716340
Saying "youre retarded" after someone calls you out on something with a step-by-step process is not a good look for you.

>>97717146
>list things that arent true
You're retarded.

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>>97716094

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>>97717131

>>97716094
The "amazing finds" part is killing me.

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>>97715080
It's a figure of speech.

>>97715916
It seems i havent done nearly enough research into resins then. I thought they all still broke if you looked at them the wrong way.

>>97717606
You misused it because FDM is easy to start using than Resin

>>97717669
I didn't misuse anything because it wasn't my post.

>>97716200
hard to judge a blurry big robot
try printing a 28mm humanoid with a sword
and as you said, decent, but far from as good as resin

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Just pulled the trigger and got myself an anycubic mono 4, a wash and cure and a bunch of stuff to print. Also 4kg of sunlu abs like since i heard good things about it.

What am in for?

>>97718228
You wasted money with the wash and cure, you only needed a pickle jar and a UV lamp.

>>97717669
Your grasp on printing is as weak as your grasp on English.

>>97718363
This is true

>>97715977
>Using GW minis as your benchmark for fragility/resilience is not a good one
For sure, and point taken; I used them as an example just because I'm sure a lot of potential printers would be wanting to print models for GW games and most people have at least handled a plastic GW model.
Point being, the stuff is really bloody strong and regular handling and gameplay won't be an issue.

>>97715404
>>97714262
>>97711547
These came out really nice. Where did you find the files?

>>97721031
Are there resin varieties out there that are better for kitbashing/after print alterations? I've not bothered to look at the market but one of the old problems with resin is that you can't reliably kitbash resin stuff because it doesn't carve away nicely, it'll just shatter.

Any good 30k groups on Trannygram these days?
I'm trying my damnedest to find a decent body for a Vindicator Laser Destroyer but every file I find is hollow (I'm tryna do the body in FDM).
I have Craftos's normal 30k Vindy but it's all one piece, as well (I could print in resin, but I'm cheap and lazy).

>>97722247
>every file I find is hollow (I'm tryna do the body in FDM).
I don't get it, how is that a problem?

>>97722472
If the body is hollow, FDM slicers see it as area that needs support; rather than a quick, easy infill, it does it as entirely supports for the internals.
This takes ridiculously longer and is obviously suboptimal for my needs.

>>97723181
You meant hollow as in it has no bottom side?

>>97723239
>>97723239
I'm not sure where the disconnect is here, chummer, so I'll start from the top.
It is a Rhino-chassis.
It has no internals as it's meant for resin.
All of the empty space inside would be basic tree supports with resin.
All of the empty space inside reads as overhang with PLA/FDM.
Because of this, my options are:
1) Let it print 6hrs of supports very slowly and wastefully
2) Crudely fill the print with shapes to make printing it easier
3) Just find the original file the creator took this from.

>>97723312
The disconnect is that the very few times I had a problem with this was because the vehicle had no bottom, but there adding a rectangle in blender solved it. Don't remember any other time my slicer wanted to put supports inside a model.

>>97723312
Either cut it up and print in pieces to avoid the issue, or put angled ribs inside it with blender/meshmixer.

Is there a different thread for discussing 3rd party prints? I want to be respectful of you guys before I ask about sellers.

>>97723312
you could edit the STLs in blender to delete all the internal geometry but it's a pain in the ass

>>97722186
Cheap resins are great because they're stupid easy to work with, but they're fragile. There are some high end (and finicky) resins that aren't like that, but they're expensive and they're a fucking pain in the ass to work with. The cool kids on a budget cut their cheap resin with something like Siraya Tenacious to make it not explode when you look at it wrong. It's still a pain in the ass, but it's not $50+ per kg, so that's something I guess.
>some advise a 1:10 ratio but 1:5 works better for me
>the 30 degree centigrade recommendation is actually a requirement, not a recommendation
>this is not for speed printing, strongly consider a 2-3 second light off delay and if you don't know what you're doing with the supports, you're in for a learning experience
>we've now departed plug and play printing and have entered the hobbyist/enthusiast space, you have been warned

>>97727047
I'm mostly looking at it from the perspective of buying failed print lots that are dirt cheap; I've gotten some cool stuff out of it for low prices but since I have my own FDM printer now I don't have much, if any reason to buy those failed prints anymore. Especially considering the three separate orders I've gotten previously were all pretty much impossible to kitbash at all; it was kind of like working with glass in the sense that it would either shatter or break in ways that were very much undesirable.

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>>97727154

>>97727859
>not my proudest fap

>>97727878
Never try to remove your prints in direct sunlight.

>>97727154
>buying failed print lot
How jewish does a faggot need to be to try selling their print failures?!

>>97727047
>30 degree centigrade recommendation is actually a requirement
No, I print in 10-15C with no troubles at all
>t. woodstove heated canadian

>>97728169
Depends a lot on what it actually is. A full land raider with only minor imperfections can't be sold regularly, but someone might find it useful as terrain piece or to convert or repair it.
Better than just throwing it away

>>97728537
>I won't use this because it's trash
>pay me for it

>>97728807
I assume we are talking about professional sellers Anon. Who else would list whole "lots" of failed prints somewhere? And of course they can't use it, otherwise they get a bad review if they ship broken stuff.

>>97728169
Nta but to be fair the few times I have seen something like this it's stuff like a bag of 28mm minis or a big vehicle at 2-3 bucks but that was pre-covid. It was cheap enough that if you are getting something else from a store you might as well pick those up to cut down into casualities or terrain.

I've noticed a few noobs recently cintemplating tge photon mono 4 and others saying they bought one.
Great printer but you need to know that it will periodically tell you "FEP is at end of life and must be replaced" when you get this warning you go to tools and push a button to reset it.
I have done this 5 times now on a single sheet without replacing it.
The warning is bullshit intended to milk your wallet.

So as Lychee was slicing away I discovered that 3D viewer thought one of the files needed repairing. Well, if Lychee didn't complain.. but probably best to check he result in UVTools after slicing. So I loaded the sliced file up in UVTools and...
>UVTools crashed

...let's repair and re-slice that one.

>>97730101
Did the layer-by-layer rendering preview show any problems? if not, no need to reslice.
You do watch the render process to inspect for issues, right?

>>97730177
>Did the layer-by-layer rendering preview show any problems?
What I saw of it was completely black. Fucked files or just some new bug in Lychee? Well, UVTools answered that one.

>You do watch the render process to inspect for issues, right?
So what unhandled trauma exactly is it that drives you to such acts of self-harm?

>>97730253
The render process is fast and watching it tells you if those errors are real or to be ignored.
It doesn't show you it for no reason.

>>97730349
If you think fifteen minutes is "fast" for just sitting there watching the slices go by then I wish you the best of luck in the upcoming Drying Paint Watching Championship. Hopefully the prize money will be enough to get you some CBT sessions.

>>97730395
>15 minutes
You printing titans?! 28mm dudes take me 5-10 minutes in batches of 4-6 and I slice on a tablet.

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Finished fdm printing my empire 1000 pt warmaster army. Took me 2 weeks. The knights were the hardest to print, about 1/3 of them failed.

When i get back home I two weeks ill start printing the orc army along with some terrain. I do and do not look forward to painting and basing

>>97728176
If you're talking about the standard fragile resins, sure. They're formulated to (a) be cheap and (b) tolerate suboptimal printing conditions. That wasn't what I was talking about though.

>>97731166
How big are these again? 10mm? The cav in front look pretty great at this distance.
I found some warmaster stuff, and thinking of trying them scaled to 15mm.

>>97733819
>the material that can eithstand more conditions is actually worse!
Lmfao, no.

>>97733929
10mm. Im happy with them.

>lubed up all three axis
>cleaned print bed
>dehumidifier tucked behind the printer is switched on
>dusted off the hot-end fan
My printer has been idle all week, but now it's time to print.

>>97727859
>>97727878
Tile Lover, is that you?

>>97740788
FUCK there is water in the filament and it's clogging

Ordered a cheap anycubic, what are some cool coomer figures you'd recommend? I'm already aware of the nyarran maids and heroes infinite. But what are some good sources for female goblins/orcs?

>>97741129
I know of belksasar and wargames exclusive but I don't think either does female orcs.

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I'm looking for a blank or ultrasmurf breacher model to make a diorama of retaking Luna after the siege. I can't find anything on cults. Any anons know of a model? Converted Retributor somewhat related.

Got any sources for FDM friendly prints? I know briteminis but I‘m looking for more scifi/40k adjacent stuff. I don‘t mind paying for a patreon.

>>97744092
Search "supportless" on any of the platforms. Really good pre-supported minis intended for resin printing can be printed almost as-is on modern FDM printers with a 0.2mm nozzle as well,

>>97642551
They're mostly ok, some of them are really soft, like the kingdom death stuff.
The big advantage with sdp is that they have a large catalog and often scan the hot new stuff. Other scanners do much better quality, but at a painfully slower speed.

>>97674597
There's an Oldhammer group on telegram that does exactly what you want. You should be able to find it using the search function.

>>97745543
NTA but telegrams search function is intentionally crippled unless you pay for premium.

>>97745543
I could only find a Russian group chat posting warcom articles.

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Po' lil whiteboi.

Anyone got Fabelzel chaos dwarves/hobgoblins?
Actually, I'd only need the hobgoblin archers.
All I'm finding is that the drive was taken down.

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Alright lads, just set up my Mars 4 for the first time. Haven't started printing yet though.

I ordered an enclosure for this printer, under the belief that it would be helpful to contain the fumes produced during printing. However, on having the printer in person, it looks like the plastic top that goes around the printer actually contains the fumes in place, and to remove it, I'd have to also remove the enclosure, since it's not tall enough to take the plastic top off with it inside. Is this the case? If so, should I just set up a fan in the window of the room I print in instead of trying to duct the gases away?

>>97748042
Back in the day, Elegoo used to ship their printer covers with a rubber gasket on the bottom that worked pretty well for keeping the smell in. They dropped that feature sometime after the Mars 2 unfortunately. The covers without gaskets are better than nothing, but not by much. You're going to smell resin in the vicinity if that bothers you.
>I'd have to also remove the enclosure
Return it and get a different enclosure. That's unworkable. If you must have an enclosure, consider a cheap grow tent instead. Make sure to get one tall enough that you can remove the cover without having to take the printer out.
>https://www.amazon.com/Zazzy-Plant-Growing-Hydroponic-Indoor/dp/B09TVLT8F5?th=1
I use a 24"x24"x36" to house a Mars 2 and Saturn 3. You can get away with something smaller (and cheaper). However
>should I just set up a fan in the window
I've been printing resin since 2021 and I haven't bothered with any ventilation at all until a few months ago, and that's more for airbrushing than for printing. Resin haters will tell you that I'm already dead from that but I appear to be just fine, as are the rest of my household. I just figured that if I was going to set up a booth for airbrushing, I might as well leave the printers in there too. Truth be told I don't normally run the fan unless I've got one or both covers off. What I'm saying is that an open window and fan are probably fine, and may be more than what's even needed.

>>97748042
Tired of answering this question repeatedly, read the last thread or the thread before that or the thread before that, maybe even earlier in this thread.

>>97748042
If you're putting it in an enclosure anyway you can just leave the cover off

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I'm looking for an FDM-optimized proxy for Defiler, preferably the old style one. I had no problem finding decent FDM-friendly models for Rhino-chasis vehicles and Land Raider but I can't find anything that would resemble Defiler. Any clues? I don't mind buying files as long as they work so if someone can spoon-feed me with a store link, I would be grateful.