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>>97626264
kek

>>97628070
Mmmmm, tasty resin.

I caved and bought some gooner stls

>>97629849
>gooner stls
based
>bought
cringe

Any recommendations for Necromunda Zone Mortalis terrain files?

>>97629849
>>97630513
cringe

>>97629849
Which ones?

>>97633415
There were a few different artists who currently have their work discounted through one of the major STL vendors. Nothing super bad or unusual, but gooner enough that it'd make people uncomfortable at the gaming table.

Have any of you printed scans of old metal minis?

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>>97635815
Yes, works pretty well. Scans can look super rough on your screen but they're indistinguishable from the real deal when painted.

I am looking for a few classic dwarves like Old Realm Forge's. Anyone know a maker like that?
I only need 2-3 models, like one with a spear or two handed weapon, one with anything ranged and a magic user. For this few I wouldn't want to buy whole units of them from Old Realm Forge.

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>>97635815
Yea they usually come out pretty well
Also yea I do recommend compressing the model sizes on them, anymore than 25-35 mb is usually too much unused data, these models where only so detailed and super high end scanners usually make the file sizes for the meshes way higher than they should be

>>97628070
Before putting in the lights I would have pulled out the turntable and taped off the vents and holes then black primer followed by few layers of mirror paint and do the back of the door as well.

>>97628070
How did you 3d print an entire microwave

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>>97638863
>Extrusion, eh? Nudge nudge! A bit of the old fused deposition modeling, know what I mean? Say no more!
>Is your 'nozzle' 0.4 millimeters? Say no more, say no more! Does it do it overnight? While the wife’s asleep? Nudge nudge! Snap-crackle-pop, out comes a microwave! A 'quick heat,' is it? A bit of 'micro-waving,' eh? Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more!
>Does it... vibrate? Does it have a 'heated bed,' eh? Nudge nudge! Wink wink! A 'hot end'? I bet it does! I bet it does! A bit of 'support material' for the tricky bits, squire? Know what I mean?

>>97638840
Door is taped, same as the turntable. Rest will get foil taped after the lights are put on the back. No real rush since it works just fine as is.

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How do I dispose of my dirty alcohol that I used to wash my prints?

I have a mercury wash and cure station and I've been using the plastic tub it comes with. reddit and the internet would tell me to "dispose of it properly at my nearest waste management plant" or some shit but I'm thinking I can just dump it in the vacant lot full of weeds behind my house.

My last print

>>97628070
Is this some kind of meme? do you microwave your prints to cure them or something? why not just use a curing station or UV light box?

>>97635815
yes. I usually give them a look over before printing, see if there are any noticable flaws or scanner resulpts. Usually they are fine.
I''ve even scanned some old sculpts myself, and some stuff that's just OOP. Prepping for a good scan and the cleanup afterwards, at least with my diy setup, can get tedious, but it's surprisingly rewarding.

>>97642309
Transfer the dirty alchohol to a 5 gallon bucket, take it to your municipal hazardous waste disposal facility and tell them what's in it.
If you are lazy, you can sit the uncovered bucket in the sun to let the alchohol evaporate, which will leave you with a hazardous resin mush that you'll still have to take yo hazardous waste disposal.
Of you just dump it, you're just adding it to the local water supply and might as well drink it straight from the wash and cure station.

>>97642309
burn it, outside.

>>97642357
I think I'm gonna go with option B but either scoop out the mush and leave it in the sun for a few days to let it cure then dump it. ty

has anyone printed a scan from Strange Dark Place and if so what was the quality like? is it better than the quality you see in most scans or was it noticeably better?

Does paint help cover up the layer lines from a FDM printer? Does anyone here have any mini's that were made with a FDM printer?

>>97642548
don't scoop it out, let it settle then set your jar in the sun to cure the mush, then pull out the solid remains, reuse alcohol after.

>>97642738
I'm not using a glass jar, I use a platic bin with a snap-on lid. I'm letting it settle right now, should I leave it in direct sun anyway? The solidified resin at the bottom won't get stuck, will it?

>>97642738
I got 2 wash buckets with the spinny thing for my cure station. For my qst wash bucket should I dump into a jar and then do this or if just set in sun it will fuck up the spinner?

>>97642887
if it's clear plastic I don't see why not.
>>97642920
if you can dump it all out without leaving gunk behind I also don't see why not.

I've always used the two jar method, one "dirty" and one "clean" then a plastic container for the hot water bath between and after jars. Personally I think wash/cure stations are a waste of money, if they didn't cost as much or more than a printer, sure, but they're retarded expensive considering the disparity of utility between them and the printer.

How do we make mechanical assemblies?

>>97642952
The one thing to remember about clear plastic is it's plastic, so if you get REALLY hot sunny days you could cause melting or deformation, and in general you're shortening the lifespan of the container thanks to the UV.

You can get a giant glass cookie/pasta jar off Amazon for like 15 quid/20 bucks, there's no reason to use anything else.

>>97643008
>buy an empty jar
What?? Use a jar from something you've bought like sauerkraut, pickled eggs or pasta sauce

>>97642551
i've posted a couple of them. back in the last thread check the darkwater prints

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moving my shit to a big drive

>>97642952
I got mine with my printer 2nd hand so practically free. Added a second bucket to be dip first first get most of gunk before a proper wash. The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up

I think ill just dump into a glass jar when it gets too gross and just cure that


Including the printer, station and gear, bucket, resin and ipa ive spent 200. Mars 3 pro and I guess its a 2nd Gen cure station.

>>97643140
>The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up
Just swirl the jar

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Im starting to run out of things to print anons. I spent weeks printing nonstop, building my army. But i've found all I care for and printed out 90%. Theres close to nothing left to pront.

I've been collecting some STLs for awhile, and I always opted to get the non-supported versions (smaller filesize). Is auto support software good or did I fuck myself over?

>>97646040
Why stop at one army? Hell why even stop at one game?

>>97646378
Mostly just cause I dont really care about other armies/games. Its another set of rules/characters to learn, things to paint, and STL's to acquire. Although I guess I could spec into terrain if I really cared, sanding down the support scars are going to be a bitch for that though

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>>97646760
Make gooner statutes so your army can have some hoes.

>>97646760
Still new to 40K I see, don't worry you'll get burnt out when the next edition renders your army unplayable and then rather than redo it or start a new one you'll find yourself switching to either smaller specialist games from GW (epic/necromunda/kill team/blood bowl) or a game from an entirely different company (likely battletech for the stability, rules largely unchanged in 40 years).
If/when you do switch you'll find that a lower modell count (anywhere from 4 min to 30 max) means you can dip your toe in ALL the options for either one game, or a little bit for each game, and still come out with less model investment than a single 40k army.

about to finish a series of long prints and I don't know what to print next. feels wasteful to let the machine idle but I'm also printing far faster than I'm able to paint.

After many issues with first layer ripples I've finally got my z-offset nailed down, I was off by 0.01 fucking millimetres.

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/r/equesting pics of prints done with Anycubic Photon Mono 4. from what I've seen in archive and utube the quality is suspiciously great for the price even tho it's an "old" starter printer. and names of used resins of course.

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>>97655906
It is great, with antialiasing on of course and fine tune your settings for thinner layers as it can handle them.
this is 6mm scale, used anycubic standard clear.

Anybody ever used an Etsy 3d printing service?
What keywords should I look out for? Do they generally just print anything a person requests they do for a fee?

What are the general metrics of which they charge for?

And does anybody know of any good 3D printing Etsy services in Canada speaking from experience?

Pics can help illustrate authenticity.

>>97658238
Buying from Etsy and having bullshit troubles with the prints I got like being scaled wrong is the entire fucking reason I bought my own printer to begin with.
It is cheaper, easier and faster in the long run.
even if you only ever plan to print 30 or fewer 28mm minis it is cheaper, easier and faster to just get your own printer.

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>>97658238
>>97658312
The minis on the left amd right are what I was ordering (a set of 16) the center mini is the size I wanted them (28mm scale, bog fucking standard) first time the seller sends me 32 of the midgets on the left, second time 16 of the giants on the right, then refused to even try a third time accusing me of milking for free replacements (I offered to return the failures).
As you can see I did make them work, the midgets as a smaller scale mirror match for teaching the game with a custom small board, the giants as a female ultramarines theme to explain their ridiculous size.

>>97658312
Alright then.
For a beginner into 40k mostly Imperial Guard, and a total beginner to 3D printing what resin printer should I get?
The most idiot proof just works low maintenance one if possible too.

>>97658654
the photon mono 4 mentioned above is high quality, cheap and you'll never need anything different. Though be aware that after a few years some parts may need to be replaced, but it's no harder than building a PC to do that.

>>97658664
Thanks I checked above.
Any significant differences between the regular and ultra version and lastly any information I should be wary of before buying it?
Best "hard plastic grey" resin?

>>97658716
I dont know the ultra but i know the standard and I don't see any print lines with antialiasing, so who needs more than that?
And no resin will pass for plastic, so clear is best for curing purposes.
Use the free Lychee slicer, make sure to tune your layer height settings, there will be youtube videos on this, exposure times and such are listed on the bottles of resin.

>>97658716
>>97658754
Oh also get on telegram and find a channel/group for 40k stl's and then keep looking for a guardsmen specific channel, telegrams search for channels is fucked so you may be at it awhile, but once you have one you're good to go.

Does anyone else just watch their FDM printer while it's working entranced by the process? Not an entire ten hour cycle mind you, but I can lose 30 minutes doing so easy.

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Like most people i assume i cant afford the prusa ht90 even if it is the coolest looking 3d printer.
Any reason i should not get the core L over the equivelent bambu or whatever chinese brand is hot right now? I like the open source commitment and they seem to be just as good as anything else in that class.

>>97658754
>>97658760
Thanks!
One more thing.
How much maintenance on my end will this printer require?
I mean like cleanup that isn't the supports for the prints.
I vaguely remember something about nozzles. It isn't that big of a problem?
Are Air purifiers recommended as well too?

Hey frens.
My bro printed me a necron warrior. He's scuffed as hell, but I can see the potential. the idea of owning my own Biotransference furnace is giving me an incredible erection.
What printer should I buy?
I want to print with all plastics, not just the simple ones.
As cheap as possible I'm a poorfag.

>>97659877
nozzles are the other kind of printer.

>>97659877
if you've got air worries, open a window when it's running.
For cleaning you'll want either a well lit windowsill (and a pice of cardboard to put your prints on at it) or a UV flashlight (USB rechargeable), you'll also need a couple glass jars to fill with Isopropyl Alcohol for a two step rinse clean after printing. Swirl the prints in jar 1 for a minute, then take them out and shake off excess alcohol and do the same with jar 2, label them so you can tell which is which until they've been used awhile. remove supports in hot water BEFORE you cure the prints further with UV flashlight or windowsill sunlight.

any keyword recommendations for flight stand scenery on yeggi, like a tree that a stand can slot into to high it on the base.

>>97661074
decide on your printing technology first
>FDM (extruding plastic)
lower detail but cheaper and easier. great for terrain and accessories. can work for miniatures with a lot of effort and post-processing, but will never be on-par with resin.
>SLA (UV sensitive resins)
capable of incredible detail, far exceeding injection molded plastics, but needs more gear, more setup, and more safety procedures. You will poison yourself if you are careless, or develop permanent sensitivities to the chemicals involved.

>>97658754
>no resin will pass for plastic
No cheap resin will.
>clear is best for curing purposes
Oh. It's you.

>>97659877
Be careful with the advice that you get here anon. Not everyone is as helpful as they appear to be. Trust but verify, trust but verify.

>>97664392
I will go with extruding of course. I should have written this in a previous post, sorry. I'm fine with post-processing.

>>97664392
>far exceeding injection molded plastics
Fr? Wow. Oh well even if I had enough money resin is logistically impossible to me.

>>97664742
it's shilled lot, but the bambu printers or their clones, and a replacement 0.2mm nozzle, are really nice, very easy to use. The generic open source slicer software, Orca, runs natively on linux and is easy to use, with reasonable default settings for most every printer and filament on the market. Filament printing has advanced really fast in the past few years and it's great.

>resin detail
top end home resin printers can accurately print details down to ~2 microns. It's fucking nuts.

>>97664795
Thx for the advise.
I was hoping this tread would have like a list of most popular models but it's fine.

>replacement 0.2mm nozzle
Yea my bro just got one. We will try it.

>down to ~2 microns
Damn. That's comparable with actually expensive metalworking machines even. Good stuff.

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>>97664826
this thread doesn't really like filament printers a whole lot because we are snobs for quality truthfully with some primer and 8000 grit sanders, I think FDM miniatures are perfectly fine for the tabletop. You won't be able to see the 0.06mm layer lines from the usual tabletop distance of 2-3 feet away, and while ~3.5 hours for a single mini is very slow compared to resin, how fast are you painting really? Unless you want to try printing entire armies as a side hustle...

I have personally used three printers in total
>anycubic photon m3 (resin)
>anycubic kobra neo (filament)
>bambu labs a1 mini (filament)

I've really enjoyed using the last one but don't have a ton of great things to say about the other two.

>>97665205
I personally don't have anything against FDM; if that's what you've got to work with, work with it. I think you'd be nuts to pick one over a resin printer if your reason for getting into printing is to make miniatures though (resin isn't that much more expensive now).

>>97665205
>spoiler
Depends on the scale and if you even can sandpaper things. Certain minis have printlines in places you really won't be able to reach easily.

>>97665205
FDM is fun for just the ease of use and versatility. Can do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS. There's even a water soluble filament called PVA that's like 3 times as expensive, but works phenomenally for supports and lets you larp having a resin printer. Changing filament is also a lot easier than setting up a new vat, and as far as I know, the only way you're getting more than two colors on a resin printer is a polyjet printer worth 15 grand or more.

If "all" you're going to do is minis or you can afford two printers, then definitely get a resin one, but don't sleep on the other uses for FDM. My wife's coworkers keep sending her home with orders for these fidgets I've been selling for 20 bucks a pop. It's like an illegal drug ring for self-diagnosing Tiktokers.

>>97669426
>ease of use
>ABS
Lmao.
>multicolor prints!
Strawman, no one is printing shit to not paint it here.
tuning a machine for a different resin is the same as tuning a machine for a different filament, except the resin doesn't require you to tape up your build plate and buy an insulated enclosure to maybe make some materials work.
Resin printers also have specific tunings that are listed on the bottles, FDM can't have that, your machines z-offset is going to be different from mine.

>>97669584
>Strawman, no one is printing shit to not paint it here.
I acknowledged that resin is best for minis, no? Nobody's cranking out articulated dragons for renfaire on a resin printer, though. You load up 4 different dual color/rainbow shift 1kg rolls and just let the printer run.
>tuning a machine for a different resin is the same as tuning a machine for a different filament
When you shift types, not color. Even then, the only thing you really need to change is the preset, as the common filaments are all set to go in most programs. It's a box in the slicer. Mom could do it. You don't need to put gloves on to swap out a spool.
>except the resin doesn't require you to tape up your build plate and buy an insulated enclosure to maybe make some materials work.
You only need to do that shit with ABS, which is overkill for most projects and definitely not great for minis.
PLA and PETG are fine and require no filtration. You're not getting anything out of it you're not already getting from the 2 liter bottle of Mountain Dew.
>FDM can't have that, your machines z-offset is going to be different from mine.
That's a calibration you do once and it's good for all filaments. Easy as shit too. you just print a one-layer square and see if you get uniform lines.

>>97669671
>dual color/rainbow shift
Meme trash, again, no one here is printing things and not painting them.
>muh cubic construction lifesize props
Also a meme that maybe one in a million users will actually ever attempt, much less pull off with all the gap filling necessary. I've seen precisely one of those, in a 3d printing store and it was a hot pink masterchief with terribly obvious connection lines on all the cube sections, not even the pros doing it for advertising could be assed to do it right.
>you need to do overkill prep for ABS
Yes, I did hint at this ridiculousness.
>one time calibration, good for all filaments
No the fuck it isn't, I have to reset my z with every change of filament, even two different PLA's require a fine tuning by +/- 0.01mm, and my first layer ALWAYS has to be 0.01 lower than the rest of my print, which means sitting there watching it go until the first layer is done to adjust that offset the moment it switches to layer 2.

>>97669704
> have to reset my z with every change of filament, even two different PLA's require a fine tuning by +/- 0.01mm
Your machine must be really finicky, or something is actually loose and it's just correlated with filament changes. AD5X has been serving me well. Had to change z offset once because the factory default was just way too close.

>>97669727
"Finicky" is a snarky way of saying "precise" here.
you must not be doing 0.1mm layer heights on a 0.2 nozzle.

>>97669733
Sure am. I tried adaptable layers but it seemed like more of a headache than it was worth and having gradient lines is even more obvious than just having a million uniform little ones.
I do .1 mm with a .15mm first layer for whatever big-boobied anime girl I want, then .2 mm for "huhuh, spiked penis fidget."

z offset is just how far the nozzle is from where it's spitting the stuff. It shouldn't be changing from one PLA spool to the next.

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Printed some tops for my Duneriders. I got them used, so there's no extra bits to speak of, but I kind of really dig the custom turret I found.

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How viable is it to rip models from video games, do some processing in Blender, and make them printable bits?

>>97659621
yes, but it's more that started long ago where you had to watch the 1st layer be deposited to make sure it wouldn't fail the print.
Timelapses are definitely fun.

>>97671987
lots of people do it already. most video game models are low poly and not designed for 3d printing so they need significant clean up

>>97670224
not to criticize you personally but those tanks look fucking gay. the fuck was gw thinking

>>97665205
The supports are the main issue for me, I've printed support-less minis with a 0.2 nozzle and was really pleased with how they came out but anything small that needs supports comes out a mess.

>>97674129
resin-style supports have helped a lot, but you are right about supportless. supportless models are amazing and print really fast too.

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>>97673273
They're definitely a choice I have to live with. Admech isn't popular enough to have a whole lot of options for 3d printed alternatives. I've seen some sort of shitty spidertank from Stationforge or something, and I really don't like it. I will say, however, as stupid as my tanks look, the real GW turret looks even stupider.

Oye, I got a bunch of metal WF models. That chainmail is not in current models.IDK if the generic chainmail infantry is not scanned, but serious question:

You get the fabled 6 army no paint, all assembly, someoneone quitting and they have metal models, am I supposed to like try to scan them?

Just trying to like, vibe out if I have a responsibility to the community? If it's tg no one cares, but keeping the models in infinite is something the oldschool players do so I thought I'd pick ya brains

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>>97674486
Pic for example, legit dont know if this is some oldhammer scan want or not, I've just gotten a lot of good advice here(I love youa schizo fume-anon) and just wanted to ask is there any like, oldhammer telegram channels where i can either have scans be yoinked, or be told how to make them clearer? I got so much bs I just don't wanna waste metal models sculpts

/diy/ fdm tourist here with a question on functional sla prints: i'm leaning towards buying formlabs tough 2000 v2 resin which apparently is significantly ahead of the other abs-like resins on the market. whats the catch if i use this on a cheaper printer like anycubic instead of their $5k form 4 (given that i tune it precisely), print speed? predictable warp/consistency?

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I've been looking for Goa'uld ships or at least pyramid looking ships for thigs like void admiral or battle fleet gothic and so far outside of necron ships I have had no luck.
Any other idea where I could look for something like that?

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>>97675853
I use these in Star Trek Attack Wing.

>>97675591
the only difference is you save $4700-$4800, UV light is UV light.

>>97675591
You give up on their tuning and have to, more or less, tune the print parameters yourself. Exposure mostly. Not dialling in that properly can reduce print speed, cause failed prints, and/or make the detail either too faint or bloated. (Warping in resin is either something he material decides to do largely regardless of your input, or a matter of the supports rather than the resin-related settings.) Unless you absolutely have to squeeze out every ounce of speed (for a print you''ll start and forget about for however many hours it takes) it usually isn't very hard though. Paying 5k to have them do it for you is just absurd.

>>97676240
>UV light is UV light.
Just about every consumer printer around uses a 405nm "UV" light source, and while most printing resins have been optimised for that there are some that prefer or outright demand proper UV in the 385nm region instead. So even if we only look at the realm of 3D resin printing there's a difference between UV and UV that we, occasionally, may need to be aware of.

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How do you do the allegedly most-PLA-compatible stuff in PLA? i've tried a chimera and a knight questoris after hearing IG and IK were the best possible armies for such a thing but my attempts have gone terribly.

>>97677140
How are those terrible?

>>97677140
I wouldnt be so sure about Knights. All my experience is resin so take it with a grain of salt. There is a strong chance you could make 90% of them out of filament but knights also have a bunch of tiny stuff like pistons/flags/railings that probably dont translate the best to filament.

>>97675591
Generally speaking, the difference between the cheap Chinese printers and the expensive commercial ones are parts quality (not really an issue for the home gamer) and QoL improvements that make them easier for an absolute beginner to use, since the commercial machines are designed for, you know, commerce, not hobbyists.

Those high end resins are trickier to print with than the basic bitch stuff on Amazon. The temperature requirements are somewhat stringent and your settings must be dialed in pretty well or you'll have all sorts of problems. That Formlabs takes care of all of that for you. If you're willing to learn, you can make it work on a hobby machine too but it requires some thought and work.

There's a third way that's almost the best of both worlds: mix some high end resin into your cheap stuff. This significantly reduces the cost of your prints versus using only expensive resin, you get at least some of the benefit of a high quality technical resin, and the printing process is much more forgiving. I personally use 1:5 Siraya Tenacious and Elegoo ABS-like. This mix will hold detail while printing easily enough (not as easy as straight Elegoo though) and while it's not as flexible as rubber, your average 28mm print will survive a trip off the table and onto a concrete floor without any issues.

>>97676308
If it cant be used in industry standard machines it isn't "high end", it's trash. Pricetag doesn't equate to quality.

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What is this pose called that I've seen before in other miniatures?
And I would appreciate links to paid for and free STL models that have this pose too please.

>>97676012
I have no idea what those are.

>>97678233
the original miniature was named "slambo" but since that is a GW name you won't find a lot of results searching that name that haven't already been removed. It's also very similar to the milton bradley hero quest chaos warrior and very much designed for a simple two-part mold

>>97678233
The pose itself I would describe as "axes akimbo"; are you looking for Slambo specifically or just minis dual wielding stuff? I know I've seen at least 1 Slambo knockoff under something like "Chaos Slam champion" while I was looking for HQ stuff.

>>97676240
>>97676308
>>97677619
thanks anons but holy shit you can mix resins like that without issues? always thought stuff had different cure profiles (or even the underlying chemistry mismatch itself). tough 2000 v2 1L costs almost a budget printer would be crazy if a budget synthetic resin could do 80% of its properties

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Just got my bambu p2s. I cant decide whether to print steel legion and orks for epic 40k 3rd edition or warmaster empire and orcs/goblins. For now printing some empire 10mm halberdiers

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>>97679803
>or just minis dual wielding stuff?
Basically that.
I've got other examples of models in that pose that seems to reference the slambo pose.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-lord-of-the-forge-old-infernal-dwarves-724983
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-priest-dungeon-562652
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-liebling-undead-berserker-722536

I just think it would be cute to have a shelf of minis in that pose.

>>97680789
Looking good, was it hard to print 10mm stuff on a FDM machine?

>>97680789
man, what the fuck, how are some of those details even there on 10mm with a filament printer
have I been out of the loop with those things so badly?

>>97680666
the properties that matter are done just as well by a $30 kilogram bottle of resin.
Your absolute best "ABS-like" is still going to be weaker than standard PLA filament, you do not print in resin to produce functional working objects, resin printing is for detailed aesthetics items, it is best suited to the production of scale models and miniatures for gaming, it has niche uses in other settings like anattomical models for a doctors office and such, but resin is really quite niche. For the kind of things non-gamers want printed FDM is the technology needed.