>>97666796
the paints are shit too so why care?

>>97666796
If you're a stupid goyim cattle who actually buys this shit you deserve what you get. If you want a better bottle, guess what? They're available on the market, and for a better price than GW paints.
You're just a dumb consoomer slave who has to buy his proprietary Macragge Blue™ which is an identical recipe to Vallejo's royal blue, despite is being literally double the price and in a vastly inferior bottle.

>>97666796
>change paint name
That paint clearly has the same name.

>>97666796
Fuck droppers. They clog all the fucking time and aren't even good at controlling the amount of paint that gets dispensed.

>>97666863
>aren't even good at controlling the amount of paint that gets dispensed.
when you turn 6 you'll develop the necessary fine motor skill

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>>97666796
If they did you'd just whine about them being overpriced and/or generally shit instead.

>>97666796
Why ditch the Citadel name for generic Warhammer name and text,

>>97666900
anyone old enough to even know what citadel is also know it's not worth buying

vallejo and army painter chads stay winning

They poured chemicals that turned the nuln oil glossy. I don't care about what trademark pronouns they use anymore.

>>97666830
Arguably the best set of red paints on the market in terms of miniature painting. Which you would know if you actually painted your pile of plastic.

>>97666796
they are also changing the pots, so they have droppers, and they swing open

>>97667028
The only real issues I have with the citadel paints are the blues, blacks and whites which are god-awful. If you're not using AK for blacks and whites I don't know what to tell you.

>>97666900
They are gradually drawing down on the number of corporate names they use, like how the Games Workshop stores have been rebranded as Warhammer stores.

Expect a Warhammer: Blood Bowl rename at some future launch.

>>97667025
The Army Painter John Blanche wash is like old Nuln oil

>>97667025
Do you shake the pots properly? I never have that issue with any brand since I bought a vortex shaker.
Also you could just mix in some matt varnish and any shine is gone anyway.

>>97667028
Khorne red is an excellent dark red but for bright red I really like bold pyrrole red from pro acryl. I also haven't found better greens for orc skin than citadel paints

>>97666796
I figure I'll ask here as someone who's never painted minis before, is Vallejo worth shilling out for or should I just get the cheapest shit off Temu or something?
I'm just painting some cheapo 3d printed minis for DnD

>>97666830
Most of their paints are average to good.

>>97667028
>Arguably
If you're a complete fucking moron, sure.

>>97667229
>or should I just get the cheapest shit off Temu or something?
any recognized cheapish brand like AK or army painter will be miles better than the horrors awaiting you with no-name chinese paint

>>97667078
Pro acryl white. AK black is very good but it's black, just add ink to any black acylic paint and it's the same quality.

>>97667230
get higher standards, king

>>97667265
Would you recommend those Army Painter starter sets? Or do I just buy piece by piece what I need? I feel like buying bulk would be cheaper

>>97667295
If you're painting ttrpg minis then yeah, a base set with diverse colors will be better

>>97666863
They SOMETIMES clog. but nearly as often as the rims of the fucking pots get paint shit caked over them and then the whole thing doesnt seal and drys out/spills all the paint. when a dropper clogs a tiny bit of paint is solid, when pots clog, like 10% of the paint is solid. and a dropper is easy to unclog with a quick stab of a needle.

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No way they are not going to raise paint prices

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>zoomer newfags unironically calling this change a "loss of soul"

>>97667275
No i dont think I will

>>97667499
that fairy lies

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>>97667452
These two seem the cheapest, which ones seems better?

>>97667549
What's you opinon on contrast style paints?
if you don't like them the Fanatic one is probably better

>>97667028
Ionic reds are better btw

>>97666796
They really are trying to eradicate all trace of their own history aren't they. First the stores, now the paint - how long until White Dwarf is just "Warhammer Magazine" and the final vestiges of the company and the people that actually *created* Warhammer are wiped away by the corpo filth running things now?

Fuck I wish Hasbro or someone would just buy the monster GW has become up and run it into the ground already.

>>97667549
speed paints are really good and exceed citadel contrast but in general its better to start with the fanatics

>>97667557
>>97667589
I don't really have one I've never done this before, do they look as good?

>>97667549
Both, they're very different things.
Fanatics are traditional paints which do what you expect paints to do, color stuff.
Speedpaints are contrast-style paints, which are like paint+was/glaze in one. Great tools, but they're definitely not some magical self-painters like ads would have you believe.
Personally, if I had to choose one, I'd get the fanatics + Dark Tone + Flesh Tone + a light bone (AP's is OK but I prefer lighter) because of how handy that color is for highlighting and the like. Also Vallejo glaze medium and AP's speedpaint medium (turns normal paint into speedpaint-lookalikes for blending).

>>97667589
>and exceed citadel contrast
I’m a citadel hater but even I admit that they still have the best contrast paints. And between citadel, AK, vallejo and AP, I think AP is the worst one out of the bunch, although it is definitely still very good after they reformulated it.

>>97667663
Army painter has a drastically better range of speed paints compared to citadel contrast and it edges them out hard

>>97667614
I'd suggest fanatics first still

>>97667229
The main thing with any paint is learning how to thin them to get the right consistency. If it's shit paint or you overthin it, then you'll have to do more layers, but a lot of the time even with perfectly thinned high quality paint you should be doing at least two coats to make it consistent anyway. Some cheap paints are harder to thin right, others are bad no matter how well you thin them. Most can be fixed by just adding more thin layers.

>>97667229
Vajello is good but I feel the surface of the paint can be kind of shiny and I find it is chalkier on white colors than AK or Proacrly, but I do use a lot of it. My favorite is AK, it thins the best IMO yet has good pigment density.
I like the colors of Pro acryl the best but finds it breaks down on a wet pallet a bit, the non speedpaint army painter stuff I think is a little viscous and thick for my style and undecided but I still use it the most. I think GW is my least touched pots.

>>97667861
I switched mainly to the new vcg and theyre unceedibky matt, what are you using

Is it just me or does the new bottle look a bit slimmer

>>97667626
>>97667752
>>97667692
I'm getting a starter set and a white and black primer for that shading trick and maybe 1 or 2 paints the set is missing.

>>97666900
>>97667087
The word "soulless" gets thrown around a lot but that's truly soulless.

>>97668045
older stuff, the bodel hast last so I think its the pre reformulation game color and model stuff. I forgot about that! I just lied AK more so stopped buying

>>97667482
Employing Kairos Fateweaver as public relations was an interesting approach.

>>97666796
not thrilled they changed to a smaller font.
Including chinese on the bottle is a hell if a portent.

>>97668504
It's Katakana on the pot, so it's Japanese,
Don't the Japanese have better acrylic paints for cheaper in Japan?

The last time I bought citadel paints it was a 40k starter set with a monopose marine. A quick web search says the pots have soft lids that don't seal well after a few uses and the lids collect paint which dries on them then they don't seal at all. Either or those is bad enough but is there anything else bad about the pot (not the paint or the price per volume)?

>>97668958
>A quick web search says the pots have soft lids
If only. The pots in the 90s (first and second gen pots) had soft lids, sealed nicely and are to date the only good ones (hell, I still have >10 paints I bought in like 1996, most in paintable state). All subsequent generations of GW pots were various types of shit.

>>97668059
zenithal! good idea!

>>97668620
>Don't the Japanese have better acrylic paints for cheaper in Japan?
Not really the same type, the bulk of hobby acrylics for the Japanese market are partially solvent-based, like Tamiya and Mr Hobby paints (Mr Hobby Aqueous, despite the name, still has almost the same solvent content as Tamiya's acrylics). They don't thin down very nicely without using a proper thinner, and they're not very friendly for more 'advanced' techniques like glazing, wet blending, etc. Mr Hobby Acrysion's the only real exception, being purely water-based so you can thin them with water for brush painting, but they are still formulated with painting large areas of flat, solid colour in mind and don't really behave like Euro/NA hobby acrylic brands (much longer drying times, typically weaker coverage, stuff like that). There's also just the colour selection lacking variety since it's built mostly around military modelling (not much vibrancy, mostly earthy colours and greys, etc.) and a lack of 'technical' paints (AFAIK, they've just released their first ever acrylic washes to go with the Gundam Assemble miniatures game), so most people who wanted that more 'painterly' look for their models/figurines would use stuff like artists' gouaches. As there's been a growing interest in these nice, non-toxic paints that go on easily with a hairy brush in the Nipnong modelling scene over the last few years, it's mostly been Citadel and Vallejo filling the demand

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>>97666796
Complaining about the modern pots?
You've had a soft time painting.
These fuckers would leak and weld themselves shut.

>>97666796
Wipe the name wipe the shame

>>97669582
I still have at least 10 of those. Never had them leak. The black went bad but that was 21 years after last used so not too upset, the crumbly bits actually added an interesting texture. Wasn't hard to open, maybe that's why it went bad.

>>97666830
Citadel paints are excellent. Overpriced yes. But between them and Golden there is zero reason to ever buy Army painter, AK, Monument, or the extremely overpriced Vallejo.

>>97667267
Poverty.
Golden or who cares.

>>97670379
AK oily steel is the best steel metallic I've used

>>97667663
Amazing, literally every single point you claim is wrong. Contrast as a range is garbage because it has no consistency - some of them do the intended effect really well, some are shit at it(in both ways; some barely pull back from the edges, others are basically washes); some are satin and some glossy(which matters if you're doing for example metallics last after varnishing and want to tint or shade them); some are gloopy and some really runny etc. And that's largely not an intentional choice like the whole Base/Shade/Wash concept for their regular line, they just couldn't be fucked putting in the R&D to achieve consistency, then they demand top dollar for them? Fuck that man.

Never tried AK, but between Vallejo and AP I'll take AP every time. Better coverage, more uniform consistency(though Vallejo are nowhere near as bad in that regard as GW), better saturation on most colours, no foaming. Vallejo now ironically beat AP on price if you want to buy them all at once since Xpress bundles are often quite heavily discounted.

At the end of the day the point of contrast paints is to be the lazy option. That means I want to pick up any single bottle and know what it's going to do without having to look up a fucking spreadsheet to remember if it's runny or thick, unusually transparent or opaque, or needs 5 times more mixing than normal to be uniform or whatever. It means I don't want to have to wait 10 minutes after every time I shake a paint and adopt special brush techniques for basic application to avoid pockparks from bubbles, I just want to slop it on. AP is the only one of the main manufacturers who's one-coat line actually achieves the basic promise of the format. I never thought I'd be advocating for an AP product, for most of my hobby lifetime they've been a joke, the rubbish people buy because they were cheap and anti-GW(the refined, patrician GW hater used Vallejo, or P3 if they were American), but it is what it is: AP are the best one coat paints.

>>97666796
>The pots are designed to spill or dry your paint in the rim. Every single video recommends fucking paper as a palette to soak up paint you took out of the pot.
Is GW trying to outjew actual jews?

>>97670379
>Vallejo
>overpriced
You're telling on yourself, James.

>>97666830
Everyone knows that the paints are good, just extremely overpriced and the pots are made to dry them out on purpose.

>>97670379
>extremely overpriced Vallejo
Vallejo is widely known to be exceptionally good for the price. You should reconsider suicide and take your wokeslop with you, James.

>>97670703
They can't outjew actual Jews, because they are actual Jews. James' Wokeslop has been controlled by the marketing/economics department for nearly 20 years or something, anon. There's not a single member of the old guard left.

>>97667229
All the big hobby brands are good enough for a beginner, just get whichever is cheaper or available where you are. Where I am the army painter beginner set would be my recommendation. The one on the right: >>97667549


>>97667078
For me: Pro Acryl white, Vallejo Black, AK off-whites and off-blacks.

>>97666796
I think it's hilarious how retarded GW is
>>97667017
this

>>97666830
>>97666835
citadel's washes and contrasts are fun, but i'd never use their base paints or primers.

>>97670725
It ain't retarded if it works. I know people who are brand loyal in the extreme. Like "Community's Dean Pelton an office full of Honda merch after a short talk with the sales rep" brand loyal...
Bilking retards like this is just good business sense.

>>97668058
I see what you mean, but I think it's just the lighting.
Inb4 it's 11ml and the same price.

>>97670729
Nuln oil is hella mid now

>>97670785
does vallejo have any comparable alternatives to citadel washes?

>>97670786
I don't think so, AK has just put out a wash line, and AP has its Tone washes along with some pretty Citadel-like washes like Grimdark Shadow or Voodoo Shade that are very Nuln Oil-like

>he uses citadel slop instead of the superior Vallejo

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>>97670786
The game color washes are supposed to fill that niche. I have not tried them. Vallejo's washes have a mixed reputation, which might be because they have some weathering washes in 35ml that are not a comparable product (they're for weathering vehicles).
I have thinned down some of their dark xpress paints to wash consistency, and that works well for some colours.

>>97670786
I've never felt the need to check when AP is right there, and for all the ba you could say about their paints (I haven't tried their current Fanatic line, but the old ones had super inconsistent quality), their washes have always been great.

>>97666796
>coloUr
Strange they kept the "u".

>>97666899
Do you really think overpriced paint in tiny bottles is such a luxury product it warrants this reference?

Why do people hate the pots?

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>>97670786
>>97670975
Why use washes at all when contrast/xpress paints do the same thing when watered down?

>>97666796
Honestly it's really interesting if you read between the lines.
>fans have been rotated enough that the name Citadel doesn't carry any weight
>or the oldfags just started buying other brands
>moonrunes front and center as if Japan doesn't have way better options (is this a reaction to Gundam having a mini game?)

>>97666830
The standard acrylics are good. Nothing really great about them though, so being expensive is pretty massive ding against them.

The contrast line is pretty fucking bad. Not because they don't do flat areas well (this is pretty common for all similar paints) but because they are wildly inconsistent in how they flow AND some basically don't function as they are supposed to at all

Washes are hit and miss too. Really the only reason they remain popular is because they used to be the only mini paint line that was good making them the best by default.on the whole, Army Painter is outright superior to them now which is pretty incredible considering their acrylics used to be some of the worst out there.

>>97666796
Let me guess, the sticker change comes with a price increase?

>>97667478
The rims only get caked if you don't close them properly

>>97671439
Ready to use washes are a convenience. You can get the same performance from mixing up a paint with water, medium and flow improver, but AP Strong Tone is right there.
Thinned xpress/contrast also do the job, but usually cost more.

>>97671336
The current pots fuck, I just realised they're nearly 20 years old at this point are a pretty rough design that have a tendency to collect paint pools around the hinge and gum up preventing them being properly sealed. It stands out when most every other brand uses dropper bottles, which are much less prone to issues like that

>>97671336
I may be retarded, but I could swear some of those pot lids keep unsealing by themselves over time. Besides that, It's a bit of an inconvenience to draw paint from them.

>>97672158
Warhammer community staff swear that isn't the case, but I wouldn't trust what they say >>97667482

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*explodes everywhere when closed*

>>97667626
NTA but I ended up getting the beginner set and then a metric shit ton of AP fanatic paints and washes before even trying them. Hopefully I didn't fuck up too bad. I kept wanted to get specific colors for specific projects and then more beyond that.
I just finished one of the guys in my Reaper Learn to Paint and am about to crack the AP paints open with some better test models
Is AP's flesh tone wash good? Is so, which one? I have Pro Acryl wash, because I heard that was good

>>97674103
Warm flesh tone is well liiked im not sure about the others

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>>97667549
Speed paints are nice to have, I mostly use them for slapping on stuff like leather or bone details and for achieving good looking skin/faces as well as glazing, but from personal experience they're shit for cloth and flat textures and any larger part of the miniature where the staining might show up noticeable. They will not replace traditional acrylics.
My general recommendation would be to pick out and buy paints individually. Just get a Nuln Oil and Agrax Earth Shade equivalent wash, and a contrast paint for bone, skin, and a medium brown along with the some regular paints, and you should be good to go. Also make sure to get a cream color, as these are propably the #1 most useful paint for mixing and highlighting, and are also just gernerally a good base layer for slapping speed paints over, as they won't really show up vibrant over darker colors.

>>97668462
underrated

>>97673092
>Warhammer community staff swear that isn't the case
Don't believe it until corpaganda denies it.

>>97671157
Why would it be strange they spelled it correctly?

>>97671457
Yup. GW are now a third party producer for the real versions of the IPs they continue to own, but have no meaningful connection to and no moral authority to control. What's mad is there are people I know who've been around since like late RT era who still just slavishly keep buying Official Stuff and won't hear a bad word said against them, despite the company having sacked or driven off everyone who actually created or even could have claimed to have respectfully curated the IP and having basically nothing in common with what attracted them to it in the first place.

Legitimate brand cultists.

>>97674997
>but from personal experience they're shit for cloth and flat textures and any larger part of the miniature where the staining might show up noticeable. They will not replace traditional acrylics.
This is true if you paint with them in the same way as traditional acrylics, but if you learn to paint with them in the way they're suited for with specific brush and application techniques you can see results equivalent to a good-but-not-amazing base/shade/highlight/specular highlight paintjob and only need to do the specular stage in addition, with significant time savings.

Whether that's worth doing if you already have a perfectly sound grasp of painting with traditional acrylics is up to the individual - I have noticed that a lot of the younger lads at one of my local clubs who started with Contrast and started following "quick ink" tutorials when they started trying to improve beyond the "slap it on" stage we all begin at seem to have a much easier time making their stuff look good than the old gits in my age group, since we have to essentially unlearn most of our habits and assumptions before learning how to do it properly.

>name the paints after warhammer to ride the coattails of warhammers popularity
lol

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>>97671336
Paint pots can have genuine advantages over droppers when they are designed properly.
The key words are "designed properly" here.

GW's paint pots are far from a properly designed paint pot. And they're also arguably the most popular brand of acrylic paints in the wargaming market so them being the first makes most wargamers assume that paint pots suck when in reality it is just GW's design of paint pots giving paint pots in general a bad reputation.

Pic related is a Tamiya paint pot. In my opinion the best designed paint pot. Because I don't know of any other company making models and their own acrylic paints to go with them in paint pots.

It looks better designed than GW's paint pots and has a screw cap lid that most likely eliminates the problem of acrylic paint gumming up the back of the paint pot that GW's paint pots have which prevents a proper seal.
Granted I've never used Tamiya's paint pots so I don't know any disadvantages of them other than them being made of glass so maybe dropping them means broken glass to clean up.

>>97678868
The downside with screwtops is that they're really best suited for pouring paint out. Ideal for Tamiya et al, where you're pouring it into a mixing cup to thin down for airbrushing, but if you just want to get a little glob of it to put on your palette, a fliptop lid is a lot more convenient (or better yet, a dropper bottle!). There's a good reason why the Citadel screwtops didn't last more than, what, 3 years? And the only other mini company I know of who used screwtops for their paints was Target Games
>other than them being made of glass so maybe dropping them means broken glass to clean up.
It's pretty thick glass, especially at the bottom, you'd really have to go out of your way to smash it even against hardwood or whatever