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Work in Progress, Half-Way to Saturday Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>98104734
>>98090788
>>98079002
>>
>>98115388
This made me think it would be fun to see a comparison of how people painted the same/a similar model when they started and now
>>
File: 1779897007224.png (509 KB, 866x350)
509 KB PNG
>>98115700
this also includes conversion work, then vs now
>>
is the 3 layers warhammor says to paint first the same as the primer layer you get with a big spray can
>>
File: IMG_4569.jpg (749 KB, 1697x3092)
749 KB JPG
>>98115248
Tried cleaning with a wet Q tip and warm water and no luck

Could be cos I was a dumbass and applied microset after already putting the decal down in place with water & didn't let the water dry fully first

Could also be cos they're cheap chinese copies of the legion transfer sheet

The stains vanish completely when I put any liquid on them so thinking they'll go away if I put a coat of varnish over it?
>>
>>98115840
I would be more worried about the mold line on the leg. Might be the chinesieum transfer film. Try a second coat of microset and let it fully dry before testing a coat of varnish over it
>>
>>98115565
>>98115603
so painting only 2 hours every single day makes you a master painter in 14 years
>>
>>98115840
>>98115903
>Try a second coat of microset and let it fully dry before testing a coat of varnish over it
I was thinking a second (or even third!) coat of Microset might help, too. Plus, you can always paint over the edges of the transfer with your blue as well.
>>
>>98115840
that paint is grainy as balls
if airbrushed, it dried before reaching the mini
>>
Mainly just layering / highlighting on the cape and skin left. First time doing purity seal text, kinda just winged it. Not super happy with it, but don't hate the result.

Are there any alternatives to liberator gold for highlighting gold? This is just retributor armor + reikland wash then relayered with retri + liberator gold highlights. I feel like I can barely make out the liberator gold.
>>
>>98115978
nice camo
>>
File: IMG_6870.jpg (1.5 MB, 3018x3920)
1.5 MB JPG
>>98115978
goddammit
>>
>>98115984
picture is pretty blurry but i like your empire general mounted on griffon
you have been painting that thing for a month and it really shows
>>
>>98115700
Here's some initiates. That 2022 initiate was my second mini ever, you could use those whites as sandpaper

>>98115978
>>98115984
Looking good, maybe one day I'll paint mine

>Are there any alternatives to liberator gold for highlighting gold?
add a light silver to it, or use it by itself if you want a stronger, shinier highlight
>>
File: progress.jpg (524 KB, 2409x980)
524 KB JPG
>>98116119
Well it seems I also forgot something
>>
File: TSF-049.jpg (1019 KB, 2880x2880)
1019 KB JPG
>Yes!!!! YES!!!!!
Success! Finally manage to pull off an aiming pose that utilizes a traditional 2 handed aiming stance. I had made another halfling arquebusier in a firing pose but he was using his pavise like a musket rest.

Here he's is hunched down over braced up against it preparing to fire. With this guy I chose to use a piece of styrene strip to reinforce the pavises connection to the base, because it has a kind of little spike that you're supposed to glue into something. Just not enough there, it it dropped the thing would snap. So I took advantage of that I pushed his right left foot right up against that styrene strip to create a bond there, then when I leaned him into the pose I braced his arm against the shield for another contact point. Once all the sprue goo dries I'll drill up underneath the base and drop some pins into the feet, fix inside with some superglue and then further secure it by burying the rest of it in some sprue goo.

That's one of the really nice things about these Rubicon bases besides the lip for backfilling and the ergonomic design, the top and underside are marked with matching little divots on the top and underside. So I just mark the one it's on, drill up and drop in my pin, fix it with the old superthin superglue and it works pretty well. Sometimes if I'm concerned about a heavier piece I'll even bend the steel/brass pin to angle around under the base and hug up against it. and then do the same superglue/cure/sprue goo treatment.
>>
>>98115948
Doesn't look that grainy when you're looking at it, the photo is just too zoomed in

>>98115934
>>98115903
Microset & not microsol? Was thinking Microsol might dissolve the glue as well
>>
>>98116260
>Doesn't look that grainy when you're looking at it
Lets not have another brap schizo moment.
>>
Now, after switching to demineralised water instead of Vallejo thinner for AK paints kinda solved the problem of jamming it with gum-like paint layer, I wonder - was that really the thinner/flow improver incompatibility or rather mixing paint outside the cup and lowering pressure to just 1 bar.
>>
>>98116351
Like I said a few times before, you might got a bad batch of the thinner. It sometimes happens. I have a bottle of bad batch VMS varnish on my table, for example.
~1 bar is a normal pressure for airbrushing.
>>
>>98116351
>lowering pressure to just 1 bar.
i use normal old garage compressor with no bells and whistles and 20 euro chinaman airbrush and ive never had any problems not counting the first day when i had to learn how to operate the damn thing
have you had any luck so far or are you just that inept in handling the thing
>>
>>98116397
I think that anon is just REALLY bad at elimination method and got a shitty thinner batch.
>>
>>98116373
>~1 bar is a normal pressure for airbrushing.

I thought that everyone recommended starting at "25-28 psi" which translate to roughly 1.7-1.9 bar. Once ran into some guy recommending working at 3 bar for whatever reason (I suspect he must be VERY good at trigger handle as I assume that at this pressure slightest pull makes paint spray like crazy).

>bad batch
I honestly don't think so. Tried two bottles of new Vallejo thinner and one of the older one (inb4 - yes, apparently they changed formula a little, new one is missing something that was rumoured to be harmful, forgot the name) so chances that all three are bad are thin as good glaze.

>>98116397
Yes, yes, heard that before, everyone is getting perfect results from absolutely shittest tools available and only I get it wrong because I'm a retard who don't deserve to live. But aside from that I just want to figure out what was just going on there.
>>
File: hehe.jpg (668 KB, 4080x3060)
668 KB JPG
Just finished painting this tank for next Only War session. Probably sent it straight to its doom with that marking...

Next time, I should pull up an actual reference and dial back the weathering big time
>>
>>98116437
>I honestly don't think so
You sure? You tried other brands/art thinners? AK makes alright ones, and you would be staying with brand. But yeah, the chance is small, but considering that half of the world uses Vallejo thinner + AK paints, it's still a chance.
>I thought that everyone recommended starting at "25-28 psi
You use what pressure you need for the task. I use around 18 psi for general stuff, around 28 for priming and basecoating, and around 10 and less for detail work. It depends on your trigger control, on your compressor, brush, and more. No universal value.
>>
>>98116467
ngl that thing looks abandoned. it does look good, but not like something that would move.
>>
>>98116437
i dont think i have shitty tools they are perfectly fine for my needs
at this point have you considered that you might be an actual retard if none of the expensive and complicated things you have tried so far havent worked
>>
>>98116467
the cannon looks too good for a tank that has been underwater since ww2
>>
>>98116477
>>98116499
It was kinda the goal. We are currently stuck skirmishing a cultist warband on a heavily corrosive planet, fighting over a factory/mining complex that was turned into a mound of brick long ago. For the longest time, this tank was basically relegated to being a stationary bunker with a massive ass cannon turret for us.

Besides huffing a bit too many enamels. I also tried to hide the FDM print lines by using putty and a stiff brush, but I should probably just sand it next time
>>
>>98116467
there's a pube stuck to the turret right behind the mantlet
>>
>>98116631
lmao
>>
>>98116631
Must be indigenous vines or something, free weathering.
>>
>>98116548
> stationary bunker with a massive ass cannon turret for us.
then it's perfect, add vines and an alien bird nest
>>
>>98116631
A dog pube no less.
>>
>>98116490
Nah, it's always something small that turns out significant but is not mentioned, considered "common knowledge" ("common knowledge" does not exist, actually).
>>
>>98116548
Imo, unless you want to strip it, I think turning it into an overgrown terrain piece could be a pretty good idea. Rustify the cannon, add growing vines and other plants, maybe even lil tree growing out of the hatch, and it will be awesome.
All the weathering work you did is fantastic, but it is way, way WAY too overplayed for a vehicle that's supposed to be functional.
>>
I wanna try this contrast stuff for lulz, I've some quar that are just right material to test them on, would you recommend new speedpaint or vallejo ones?



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