Linking for further suggestions
>>98131032

File: ifv wip2.jpg (1.54 MB, 1868x1503)

1.54 MB JPG

Still needs some work, but nearly done with (non-metallic) acrylics. Now onto enamels, oils, more mud and foliage, camo netting, and more enamels.

>>98131970
Damn, I'd have believed you if you said you were done.
How do you get the scratches that fine? Just a really good brush?
What's the difference between enamels and oils in your workflow? I would guess streaks and pinwashing but it looks like you already did that.

>>98131958
I've become a great fan of Alizarin Crimson recently. That, viridian green, burnt and raw umber, and phthalo blue red and green shades are often pretty useful to me

>>98131958
Averland Sunset is a color that comes up a lot, and I'm pretty sure it's yellow oxide which is also well regarded in art paints. It's an opaque semi-yellow.
It might be an oversight but I don't see pure white, which, while frustrating, is a workhorse if you mix any paint whatsoever. If you find GW whites bad, Golden makes the best white fluid acrylic IMO.
I don't see any blues on your list and I don't really disagree. No disrespect to the other anon but I'm not a fan of the phthalos.
As far as black, Black Legion contrast is also highly regarded.
Lastly, some sort of copper or bronze metal. Get opaque turquoise alongside it so you can paint verdigris.

File: Polishing Wood In A Sugge(...).gif (2.59 MB, 412x304)

2.59 MB GIF

>>98131970
Nice.

File: colour scheme idea.png (709 KB, 1000x867)

709 KB PNG

>>98132148
I've got White Scar, Corax White, Ulthuan Grey, and Pallid Wych Flesh.
Averland Sunset looks too vibrant to be a yellow iron oxide. I suspect it's organic, possibly with a transparent TiO2 coating, as I've seen something similar in the industry.
As far as blues go I've got Dark Reaper and Kantor Blue (and the lighter shades of those colours). Just got Sotek Green and Temple Guard blue.
Runelord Brass is great, especially with washes that can tweak the colour.
Pic related inspired me to try phthalo greens.

File: if I take that off will y(...).png (1.23 MB, 1079x810)

1.23 MB PNG

>>98131970
will you install a cope cage?

File: file.png (929 KB, 776x1084)

929 KB PNG

some early progress on metal kharn

>>98131573
Those bases are fantastic. Mine sharing how you made em?

>>98132685
Cool, the old metal model?

>>98133084
Yeah, got him off ebay a while back

File: Screenshot_20260531_08515(...).jpg (120 KB, 1569x836)

120 KB JPG

>>98132685

File: 20260531_011125.jpg (1.15 MB, 2296x2925)

1.15 MB JPG

Managed to undo that fuck up on the lenses, still a bit more to do to them to tidy them up. Happy enough tho.

File: 20260531_015823.jpg (1.29 MB, 3578x1903)

1.29 MB JPG

I normally don't post built pics, but i figured i would with these.

A squad of kitbashed Deathwatch marines. The bodies are from 5 stormcast eternals, the set was in a magazine that cost like 8 pounds. I watched a grimdark compendium vid ages ago where one of them made a great job of converting a stormcast body for a death company blood Angel, looked great. Made me want to try it myself.

The heads and arm bits were given by a friend. The shoulders were spare from a previous project, and the power packs were 2 quid off Ebay.

So a DW squad for about 10 quid. Weapons are accurate to the data sheet too. Fair amount of converting obviously, but i like it so far.

Found two old custom mixed painting pots marked "Wonder wash", anyone remember the recipe? I think it had Reikland flesh in it and one or two other GW washes?

>>98133179
It looks like they skipped leg day with the stormcast legs desu, I do love the chained aquila shield however

>>98133185
That's because you're used to megaman legs.

>>98133196
I'm used to the old manlets anon.

>>98133185
>>98133196
>>98133179
I agree. they look too top heavy. At least scale down the printed shoulder pads to 90 or 95%

Has someone found the Stahly pdf to be wildly inaccurate with some colours?

>>98133218
idk what ur talking about but I use this one
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

File: Screenshot_20260531_09453(...).jpg (126 KB, 1266x1080)

126 KB JPG

>>98133213
Yeah, i hear you. Ill take it into consideration when I do more to them. The bodies are push fit, so there was a significant amount material to remove to locate and articulate the arms. Green stuff etc. The shoulder pads are doing a lot of heavy lifting to cover that conversion work. The pads arent glued yet so still have the choice to pare down the overall chest width.

I like the legs, kinda have to appeal is the fitted medieval look to them.

Here's a screen grab from the vid that prompted me to try it out.

>>98132829
used tea leaves and dried oregano. sieve out the dust and small particles first, and aim for a light coat. underneath is just stirland mud with minimal drybrushing. the branches are part of the models.

>>98133218
I just blame my monitor settings. Or the companies that change the paint recipes unannounced between batches (GW).

>>98133218
in representing actual color or in the comparison?

>>98133253
that is useless

>>98133467
>monitor settings
for that reason it's not a tool to see actual color, it's a tool to compare colors

>>98133539
representing color
for example take Dead Red, for me in the pdf it looks INCREDIBLY vibrant and saturated
but irl is just another pink

File: repifv.jpg (2.51 MB, 3936x3598)

2.51 MB JPG

>>98132123
>How do you get the scratches that fine? Just a really good brush?
A fine tip brush (Rosemary & Co Series 33 size 0), and a very soft touch. But it's kinda the dumbass way of doing it, you can make finer, better-looking scratches (a lot faster, too) by actually scratching it with something like an old airbrush needle after using Worn Effects or any similar chipping fluid.
>What's the difference between enamels and oils in your workflow?
I do weathering in multiple layers. The first one is usually darker streaks done by airbrush as a part of pre-shading. Second is doing actual streaks with enamels (most often just SG) for sharper outline. Then I do acrylic weathering (scratches, chips). (This is the point I took the pic) Then, enamels for rain marks, oil residue, do the usual three-layer mud speckling (dusty dried > fresher brown > dark brown with added pigment/texture for the freshest mud). Then I start with oil dots for filters. You can add more contrast that way, or make stuff look even older, dustier. It also kind of ties everything together. It's not required, but it can help a lot.

>>98132157
Thanks!

>>98132412
Not planning on adding The Grill, but there will be some slat armor on the sides, picrel.

>>98133218
Not really. But I had an issue with Vallejo Luftwaffe Green in the past. It was a lot brighter for me than in the swatch, but it ended up being a bad bottle. Later, I got a replacement, and it was a perfect match. I can imagine this going both ways; either you or Stahly getting a bad batch. He made corrections to the swatch in the past, so it can definitely happen.

>>98133552
>representing color
then you are using it wrong, it's not meant for that, you would need to have a color correct calibrated monitor and probably a file with a color profile

>INCREDIBLY vibrant and saturated
are you using an oled phone?

>>98133257
why does he have a breathing pump installed?

File: IMG_4588 2.png (643 KB, 1011x1280)

643 KB PNG

Test models for 30k Ultramarines army 90% done

Tried out a full metal backpack & bolter to switch things up - quite like how it looks and it speeds up painting so much but not 100% sold on it.

File: IMG_0942.jpg (3.37 MB, 4000x5474)

3.37 MB JPG

this might be my favourite head i've painted so far

File: Its-maam-meme-9.jpg (26 KB, 404x440)

26 KB JPG

>>98133822
Is this a reference?

>>98133652
If i remember right its a blood supply to offset the red thirst.

https://youtu.be/uEq93PdEUyw?si=SiSiwFRSZce6Db0C

The guy gets into it in the video.

File: 20260531_131905.jpg (1.94 MB, 2527x3158)

1.94 MB JPG

Finished the bishop/cardinal.

File: 20260531_133713.jpg (1.48 MB, 2155x2694)

1.48 MB JPG

Discovered the Expert RAW app for my Samsung today and I'm finally able to take decent photos. Jesus, I feel like retaking the photos of everything I've ever painted.

File: 20260531_132802.jpg (1.17 MB, 1916x2555)

1.17 MB JPG

The mini comes battle-damaged like this, did my best to follow tips I was given by an anon here.

>>98133153
That is some good good.

>>98133132
nice have fun painting him

Today's spontaneous project due to rain is updating all this terrain with green mossy patches to match the 3 older pieces.

File: Scatter 2.jpg (1.97 MB, 1386x3490)

1.97 MB JPG

>>98134360
Fuck.

File: Scatter 1.jpg (942 KB, 2815x986)

942 KB JPG

>>98134367
And these modular wall sections.

>>98133584
>Rosemary & Co
This guy's playing chess while we're all playing checkers.

>>98133912
That's unfortunate because that kind of tube is used for air, not liquids.

>>98134454
NTA but I feel like Rosemaries are pretty popular among anons in this thread

Do I actually need to cover models in gloss varnish before applying decals (or at least the sections that will receive the decals) or they will adhere just fine to matte paint surface?

>>98134624
You don't need to do it (unless you are planning to use some decal solution), but you should. You can also just varnish places where decals will be.

>>98134371
How'd you make the walls? They look very regular.

>>98134109
Dirt on the skirt looks good, anon.

>>98134109
It really makes you cognizant of how airbrushed and fake things are. I wish I was /g/ enough to get all the AI filters to fuck off, but ERAW makes you actually appreciate your work, warts and all.

>>98134806
What the fuck are you even talking about.

>>98134813
I'm saying that the automatic filters you're not even aware are being applied to your photos make everything look artificial, and I wish I could turn them all off without so many hoops to jump through. Wasn't that hard to comprehend, anon.

>>98134734
They're 3D prints from thingiverse files, and they are just primed black, based grey, drybrushed white as is everything else.
The crypt is also printed and the other pieces are chunks of styrofoam, the 3 older pieces that already have moss are reaper terrain and the bridge is aquarium decor.

>>98134852
>Wasn't that hard to comprehend
yes it was
around here parts we usually use open camera to bypass those said filters

>>98134852
Use Open Camera, as other anon said. Better yet, use OC, and shoot in raw, since that tends to disable all the garbage filters. It's less difficult than trying to understand that rambling post of yours, anon.

>>98134806
>>98134813
>>98134852
>>98134889
>>98134914
Relax nerds, you're all in agreement.

File: IMG_20260531_200334~2.jpg (154 KB, 732x997)

154 KB JPG

Do they look like ginger hair now?

>>98133179
lmao this looks absolutely awful

>>98135042
post your work, faggot.

Ah, schizo hours, of course.

>>98134995
Ginger typically refers to bright orange hair, so I'd say no. It's more of an auburn.

>>98135092
So, even more orange? Or just add yellow?

File: 20260531_194820.jpg (932 KB, 1200x1600)

932 KB JPG

Kitbashing in progress.

I need paints (single pigment) for:
-quinacridone pink
-pyrrole orange

anyone knows which ones? id prefer not having to buy a large artist-grade pot

>>98135118
It depends on what you're going for. If you want something like 100% Irish orange ginger, then probably a bright orange for highlights. Do you have reference you're going for or are you just winging it?

File: IMG_20260531_204100~2.jpg (1.41 MB, 2171x2830)

1.41 MB JPG

>>98135134
Just winging it. To be honest, I had no real idea about what kind of hair color I want, just went with "ginger" since her dominant colors of armor is black, red and white markings. Might as well settle for this auburn you mentioned.

How many times would you paint over a face before considering it might be time to strip away at least some of the layers? I've gone over one a few times with thin layers and I really have to start over on it because it looks awful. But I don't want to get partway through and find texture buildup or shit in the deepest details.
If I do need to strip it, I'll just carefully brush over it with IPA to get rid of some of the paint. Not down to the primer.

>>98135131
By the way, the search for paints with those pigments led me to find people painting minis with gouache.
Do you guys have experience with them? I assume they reactivate, but other than that do you think theyre a good idea?

File: barrelform 3.png (672 KB, 883x517)

672 KB PNG

With the completion of this skeleton sniper I have finished everything in my work area that I had any motivation to work on
See you all in a month maybe

>>98135144
I think I would have gone with something a bit brighter to contrast with the armor. Maybe a bright blonde or, if you want to go really anime with it, something in the blue range to contrast the red armor.

What are the "necessary" skin colors to have? I just realized that I really only have the tools on hand to paint extremely pale or undead skin (Griffon Claw, Flayed One) or to do a shitty contrast job. I have almost nothing in the normal living range of skin besides Bugmans Glow.
Any recommendations for a more "complete" range of skintone paints?

>>98135219
Girlyman flesh contrast

>>98135189
I'm not a fan of blue hair but I will consider the blonde option. Don't really want to strip the paint at this point, however. But thanks.

what advantage do paints marketed specifically for miniature painting have over generic ones from golden or liquitex? are they not the same pigments but with normal names instead of neckbeardy ones?

>>98135144
that's just unit 02's color scheme and asuka's hair color

>>98135260
>are they not the same pigments
No.

>>98134758
Thanks, just two thinned glaze layers.
>>98134806
The expert raw mode isn't actually hard to use tho, not sure why it isn't standard.

If the rabid AP hater/AK palette lover is ITT I have a question. I've found after using the AK palette that the paper is super hydrophobic, like to the point where it kinda feels like wax paper. Paint beads up at practically any consistency instead of only when it's fairly thinned out. How do you deal with this? I find it makes it difficult to thin paints in a controlled way and causes way more paint to wick up into the brush when I'm mixing, making a lot of waste since I can't get that paint back out of the brush onto the palette paper.

File: 6F5D0134-E668-4B49-917F-A(...).jpg (328 KB, 1408x1429)

328 KB JPG

I bought some clear thermoplastic from amazon to make greenstuff casts, but I think they could make some pretty cool and low effort ice bases with the right molds.

Also, what do you do with failed greenstuff casts and other bits like that?

What colours would you use for a deep magenta that highlights to an almost neon pink? I wanna contrast it with cyan.
What citadel paints would be equivalent?

>>98135295
>Paint beads up at practically any consistency instead of only when it's fairly thinned out
Huh, that's weird, that's the first time I'm hearing this. What paints are you using? Thinking about it, I can imagine something like PA being overly sensitive to thinning on a wet palette, but I never had an issue with AK, Vallejo, or even Citadel.
Is the sponge wet enough? My general approach is to put the sponge inside the wet palette, pour water until it's completely wet, then pour the water out, and apply the paper, pushing it firmly into the sponge. You could also try to spread/spray a little water over the paper if it changes anything. Don't let it bead, rub it into that bitch.
Also, how much water are you using to thin your paints? Depending on how much paint (and what paint and color) you are mixing, it only takes very little. This is where super hydrophobic comes to play; it keeps the paint together and lets you mix it very precisely. But if you add too much water, it's all ogre. From experience, AK paints take very little water to thin. I often thin them with just a wet brush.

Anyway, I shilled the AK palette to multiple anons who bought it since then, and everyone was happy with it, so I'm sure we can solve this.
t. rabid AP hater

>>98135351
>Also, what do you do with failed greenstuff casts and other bits like that?
Basing bits, duh.

>>98135292
so what is the difference?

>>98135436
Anon isn't likely a chemist.

>>98135445
so he knows they are different but doesn't know how?

>>98135436
You can find out yourself in around 20 seconds on google dot com, faggot

>>98135446
Yeah, you got a problem wrapping your head around that? there's lot's of shit you can tell is not other shit that you are simultaneously unable to describe the workings of.

File: IMG20260531214005.jpg (2.41 MB, 2448x3264)

2.41 MB JPG

>>98131913

Finally added basing for my dred.

>>98135457
these solid white "snow" bases always look like utter shit.
If you can't do snow, do anything else, even plain drybrush grey sand would be better.

>>98135456
so what makes you sure that they're different then?

>>98135436
NTA but mainly two: hobby paints have smaller pigment density and different viscosity/flow because they are designed to provide smooth, thin coats over small details on miniatures and support glazing/layering techniques while "artist" paints are designed to work on canvas (already rought surface) and large areas, providing thick layers and strong coverage. They are two slightly different tools designed for different purposes.

>>98135469
What did he do wrong and how can he do it better?

>>98135469
stop speaking about things you know nothing about and pretending you've got any sort of authority on the matter subhuman

What kind of finish is better for "stockings" type of material - gloss or satin?

>>98135474
is this the case even for paints called fluid or high flow?

Obviously the snow is still wet and more stuff will be done when its dry?

>>98135503
Satin

>>98135517
Snow is always wet.

>>98135351
Your pic brings me back. Several years back I tried casting a Dark Eldar "Upgrade sprue" with all the special weapons and reaver helmets using both Oyumaru and even silicon+resin and both ended in abject failure. Wishing you luck.
Failed casts can always be used as basing detritus.

>>98135514
From my experience, yes. "Artist" paints like Liquitex are not designed for miniatures with large amount of tiny details as they tend to easily drown them. There is a reason why scale models paints are separate category and it's not about trying to sell same product twice.

>>98134367
>>98134371
The terrain back on the table with the "moss" done.

File: IMG_20260531_141358.jpg (2.48 MB, 1836x2215)

2.48 MB JPG

>>98135549
I've got to stop doing this.

riddle me this, AK shill
why the fuck do the tips of my ak pots fucking split
only brands that do it for me
not chink droppers
not vallejo (neither old nor new bottles)
not ap
only ak

>>98135561
nta but skill issue, unironically

>>98135563
>heh, the fact that only the brand I shill seems to have a problem surely means the user is the problem, despite using the same product from other brands without issues

>>98135373
>What paints are you using?
I use Citadel, AK, Pro Acryl, and TTC
>Is the sponge wet enough?
I typically with hold it under the faucet until fully soaked, place it in the container, then add a touch more so that there's enough that it will flow around under the sponge when I tilt it.
>how much water are you using to thin your paints?
Not much. A lot of the time it's enough to just pull a small amount of paint away from the main body of paint with a moist brush and that small amount of paint will bead.
It's especially frustrating when trying to thin down alot for glazes since the brush will just soak it all up while I'm mixing the water in. I consider an improvement over the AP palette, but it's had a bit of a learning curve desu

>>98135561
That's happened a lot to my Vallejo paints.

What's the optimal air humidity and temperature inside for wet palettes?

>>98135457
The snow base does look very plain as is. You could dry adding blood from that dead marine soaking into the slow. You might also try adding footprints behind the model that go down to the dirt/grass underneath to add some variety and show the weight of the model crunching through snow. Anything that breaks up the pure whiteness of it to add a little interest.

>>98135561
>ak pots
What the fuck is that.

Seriously though, I'm probably the biggest AK shill itt, and out of nearly 100 AK paints I own, only two tips split. One arrived like that from the store, and other I left caked with paint. So, from a massive sample of one (1), I would say keep them clean, and that includes paint in bottle caps. Also, store them out of sun.
Anyway, it sometimes happens, no matter what brand. I have few split tips with AP paints, some with chink replacement bottles I bought a few years ago, and I have about three with Vallejo, too.

>>98135603
Humid and cool.

>>98135584
You let paint dry in the tip and squeezed the bottle without cleaning it with a toothpick or a paperclip beforehand, you fucking dumbass. As I said, skill issue.

>>98135642
>my superior product requires maintenance which other brands dont, just so it doesnt fuck itself up
wew, you really thing you did something there didnt youw

>>98135655
He's right, though. ALL dropper bottles will get fucked eventually if you keep the paint dry in the tips.

>>98135655
>other brands don't
weird way to out yourself as a paintlet, feel free to go back anytime

>>98135561
i have had this happen with ak bottles, and old vallejo ones, also had some screw caps break at the top from some vallejos
fwiw ak customer uspport offered to drop bunch of caps for free on 'my next order' but there's no reason to order from them since third party stores usually have them discounted, so not very useful

File: skin.jpg (13 KB, 329x131)

13 KB JPG

>>98135219
pink, yellow, brown. I do all my healthy human skintones with these three. pink or brown base coat, then add in the neutral yellowish tone for highlights. finish with a thin wash in sepia or deeper red-brown in the recesses.

>>98135219
Squidmar says Cadian Fleshtone and Doombull brown. That should get you your shadows and mid tones. You can then blend Flayed One with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights.

File: IMG20260601003237.jpg (2.64 MB, 4624x2600)

2.64 MB JPG

Interesting results from masking fluid so far

>>98135988
That's how it usually goes.

>>98135988
why not use camo putty instead?

>>98135988
>>98136194
Why not just paint only the places you want to be each colour?!

Are there any standard GW paints that are still worth getting over other alternatives?

>>98135162
Any idea what the next project will be?

>>98135551
You're contributing to the thread, its all good.

>>98136380
I meant forgetting to attach the image to my posts.

>>98136299
Can't think of any. Especially not for the asking price.

>>98136424
Its all good, I'd rather have a mispost than disingenuous shitflinging and fun posting any day.

>>98136299
wraithbone, word bearers red and lahmian medium are basically the only GW paints i still use. there are others but when those pots run out they'll be replaced with other brands

>>98136366
I dunno, I still have a couple bodies from the sprues I used for these guys, maybe I'll hack together a model of the protagonist from strange journey

>>98136299
i've liked nuln oil, but black speedpaint in a 1:2 with speedpaint medium is nearly the same on metal and not glossy so I'm slowly switching over to that.

>>98135474
>smaller pigment density
u wot
>smooth, thin coats over small details on miniatures and support glazing/layering techniques
Artists famously never use thin coats or glaze
>>98135533
>"Artist" paints like Liquitex are not designed for miniatures with large amount of tiny details as they tend to easily drown them.
Did you not thin it? Do you not thin your miniature paints?
>>98135514
The real difference:
Artist paints:
>Tend to be single pigment or a handful of pigments (a hue)
>can be glossy, satin or matte
>tend to have whatever opacity the pigment naturally has, which varies
>high pigment density, except for student acrylics
Mini paints:
>Mystery meat pigment mixes
>usually matte
>formulated to be opaque except for contrast paints and glazes
>high pigment density except for washes

File: Sisters.png (6.55 MB, 1427x2588)

6.55 MB PNG

After weeks of painting, I have painted one Battle Sisters squad as my first complete unit.

>>98137299
Treasure your first unit, and keep them as a testament to how you started.
However, you might want to use washes and basing material as you go on.

>>98137299
Nice scheme, white was a bold choice for a first squad as it's horrible to work with. Also thin thine paints.

Gonna prime a dozen marine heads to practice face painting on. Ideally the process doesn't make me want to kill myself and I actually enjoy the learning.

>>98137299
Congratulations! Could you show us one model and focus the camera on it close upsi we can see the details, that way we might be able to give you some more accurate pointers.

File: Untitled.jpg (248 KB, 1479x733)

248 KB JPG

>>98137274
so why shouldn't I just look at this list and pick out the paints I want based on the colors and properties I'm looking for instead of relying on "beastman urine yellow" or "rusty non-ferrous metal?"

I finished my death korps squad, was pretty fun to build. I still have some leftover bits like grenades and pouches that I'll probably throw on before I paint, which is also when I'm gonna do the detailing like bullet dents and tears in their uniforms.
I'm still wondering what I should paint them as though. I originally wanted to do some iron warrior themed traitor guard paint scheme but I think it will look boring without any evil bits on them. I do like hazard stripes so I was thinking maybe orange hazard stripes with a dark blue for the overcoats and then normal metallic and brown for everything else. I probably should have settled on something before I cut all the imperial eagles off everything but oh well.

File: 20260531_231549.jpg (445 KB, 4000x940)

445 KB JPG

Im such a fat fucking chud forgot the image

>>98137668
People are conflating "artist paint" with heavy body acrylics(which you can use if you thin or spread them anyhow, even being good for wetblending) and ignoring stuff like golden soflat thats essentially the same thickness of mini paint and the desired matte finish most painters want.

>>98137668
I do exactly that. Their paint mixer program is awesome too.
Even with this huge selection of pigments, you might find yourself mixing a lot because there's only so many pigments, and there's also some that are toxic, and once you know what pigments are in what you'll see some are redundant.
>>98137703
I use fluid and high flow, it's easier to record color recipes because of the dropper bottles, plus SoFlat doesn't have as many pigments and leans on the cadmiums for some reason.
The matte finish of individual paints doesn't matter to me because you can always varnish.

>>98137747
Thinking of painting by base rims brown since I think it will look better than black on the table. But how durable will Mr hobby top coat be on that? Since the base sticks out, and is most likely to be scratched.

>>98137769
Never used that but the primer matters a lot too.

>>98137747
I use a mix of fluid and soflat, i transfer my soflat into flip top dropper bottles. I personally dont like working with glossy paint during the highlighting process but some fluid matte medium or super matte medium makes it workable. I dont use the cadmiums from soflat despite owning them, much prefer the bismuth yellow, naphol red light and pyrolle red. I mix my own convience colors with a mix of soflat and fluid, like my medium high coverage yellow is a mix of bismuth yellow and diaryhlide yellow. Either way, can't really go wrong with goldens stuff, i use it as much as I can and freely mix between using those and my hobby brand paint.

>>98137790
It's so different from my workflow but I like it, that's cool.

>>98136299
I still like Mephiston Red but there's probably many good alternatives. Runelord Brass is also an interesting metal color, even if it's not really brass.

>>98137668
That level of autism is simply not needed for miniature painting. Get the paint that is available to you

You are responsible for the colors on your models.

>>98137896
this. its literally the midwit bell curve meme. PUT PAINT ON MODEL THAT IS ALL

>>98137896
I can get golden paint from hobby lobby and it comes in big ass bottles compared to toy brands

>>98133213
It's 40k, anon. Importance is directly proportional to and is displayed by pauldron size. Deathwatch is important enough to warrant hero sized pauldrons.

File: 020134.jpg (214 KB, 1153x1440)

214 KB JPG

I probably am about done with this now. There's a blue spot on the white facepaint from the hair that I have to clean up that I forgot this last session. but nothing other than that. There's no way I'm going in and fixing up the pattern to be perfectly consistent. I've got to try and make a point if I do a fabric pattern again to be really careful about getting everything consistent from the start, especially if I've already shaded the volumes and can't easily go in and fix it up afterwards.

I like paint that dries just a bit more slowly than most modern hobby paints because I am not very good at blending and the longer drying time makes it easier, but the trend for hobby paints seems to be pre-thinned super fast drying paints. What are some paints that dry slower while still having good pigmentation?

>>98137969
heavy body paints is what you want.

>>98137914
That's good for you. I've never seen that brand, and certainly won't bother to Google for it. My toy paint is enough for my toy models.

>>98137966
..big gazongazonks, clown pussy, clown pussy, clown pussy!

>>98131958
Since I see you listing GW colors:
Kabalite Green for your teal
Other GW colors I like: Bugmans Glow, Warplock Bronze, Barraknar Burgundy, Karak Stone

Soooo
Gouache for minis, yeah or nah?
Not talking about acrylic gouache.

>>98138089
Who cares?

>>98138105
I care. I want to hear from anons that used them.

>>98137966
It's well painted. Not a fan of clowns, though. I'm curious, did you print a few of these busts and are trying out different styles or techniques on them? I remember the last girl with the greyish blue shirt and assume you are the same anon. This makes me wonder what you'll cook up next. Nice work.

>>98138089
I've never touched them in my life, from what I've seen from the people trying them their main selling point seems to be they can be reactivated by water and are touted as a "oil paint style paint without the solvents"

What I don't understand is why that would be something you want as then any painting done on top of the gouche would get reactivated?

>>98137299
Weeks for a thick basecoat? every single part of those looks to need shading and highlighting

>>98138279
NTA, but not everyone has the same amount of time to work on daily, and it seems it's an anon's first attempt at an army.

>>98136299
Never seen a paint elsewhere like Warplock Bronze.

>>98137299
do something to the bases, even if its just green grass or mud paste, everything looks so much better with finished bases even with the bare minimum effort on them

File: backshot.jpg (244 KB, 1041x710)

244 KB JPG

>>98136299
I use Rakarth Flesh to highlight AK Reddish Grey. Wish it wasn't quite so thin and didn't dull down so much it dries, but it's the best option I've found. TTC supposedly makes a near match but they're very expensive.

File: or.png (506 KB, 860x860)

506 KB PNG

Im losing my mind anons
Is there any colour that comes even close to opera rose?
Is fluo magenta the only option?

File: pink.jpg (39 KB, 541x270)

39 KB JPG

>>98138392

>>98138413
So only fluo magenta comes close, it seems.

>>98138423
Both VMC Pink and WPF Pixie Pink are pretty close?

>>98138437
They dont quite reach the saturation and vibrancy Im looking for, Im afraid.

File: 1780308542802181.jpg (83 KB, 541x270)

83 KB JPG

>>98138447
They're barely different anon, and I wouldn't fully trust that advert you posted either.

>>98137747
>>98137790
>>98137914
Can you post some examples of your work? I'm genuinely interested, since I don't know anyone who uses non-hobby paints.
Well, apart from craftsperg.

>>98137969
Why not use retarder?

>>98138392
Many Opera Rose paints (watercolors) have fluorescent pigments added, which gives them low lightfastness.

So yes, fluorescent magentas are the only type of hobby paints that will give you a very bright and vibrant result similar to Opera rose. Which, precisely, also have a low ightfastness.

>>98138146
Hypothetically speaking, could you mix them with some kind of acrylic medium so once dry they don't reactivate?
So instead of water you use some kind of glaze medium or lahmian or whatever

>>98135162
Sauce on these guys?

>>98138862
They're for Maleghast, made from WGA operators, agents and skeletons

File: 1646686293964.png (424 KB, 1130x568)

424 KB PNG

>>98131913
>really enjoyed last painting session
>busy weekend
>now finally got some free time to paint again
>lose all will to actually start painting
No matter how much older i become I still get this weird block hampering me and for the life of me I cant figure out where it comes from

>>98138392
https://www.liquitex.com/en-row/products/professional-acrylic-gouache-fluorescent-opera-pink

>>98138912
Do a short reset: Read a page from a book. Take a walk outside. Take a power nap. Organize your workspqce. Then, after the reset, set up your tools. If you still don't want to, it's fine. If you want to, then do.

When you don't habitualize a hobby, a prep ritual te get into the right mindset can be helpful. Mental blocks aren't that rare in people, and it's helpful to be aware of the fact that you'll sometimes get them, but they're also temporary things you don't have to let stop you from doing the thing.

File: lemanruss.png (6.03 MB, 2248x1929)

6.03 MB PNG

>>98135988
Another angle after finishing most of the peeling

>>98137969
I would just get retarder

>>98139005
how would becoming dumb help with paint drying quick

>>98139007
Too stupid to realize that the paint is dry, therefore you could blend it still

>>98138983
>painted moldlines
: /

>>98139009
ork logic

>>98139102
I'll highlight them just to spite you

File: Sisterrrr.png (7.54 MB, 2188x1721)

7.54 MB PNG

>>98137600
Best my phone can do.

>>98138983
Anon, don't get me wrong, but what exactly are you trying to achieve here?

File: Swordbrethren.jpg (81 KB, 873x627)

81 KB JPG

>>98131913
Does anybody have a good guide on how to make good looking greenstuff robes. Like the ones they find on the Black Templar models?

>>98139326
look at the physical shape/geometry of the capes on the black templar models and recreate those same shapes with greenstuff.

>>98139326
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ygL90JIU8

>>98139326
Make a flat sheet of greenstuff
Let it cure for a bit, like 15-30 minutes
Attach it to the model and bend it into a flowing cape shape
Smooth out any fingerprints or anything you've created in that process and trim the edges clean with scissors

>>98139326
Use more yellow than blue and then mix in some milliput too.

File: IMG_20260601_093747.jpg (444 KB, 1353x1191)

444 KB JPG

Got a Dire Mammoth friend for my Frost Giant on the way, also got some bears, boars, wolves and snow leopards printing too.
That covers Undead, Demons and Animals, now I neec some Monsters to round out my Frostgrave Bestiary, got good Snow Troll and Giant Spider sculpts, not sure what else to do for that set of 10.
Really had a hard time finding a Mammoth that fit thematically, mostly low-res ootions with a few very neatly armored ones and one that had flames for fur, so this guy with stones on his back was the best "wild" pick.

>>98135092
>>98134995

What the fuck? That is a fine red hair color.

>>98139294
If you can't figure that out I don't know what to tell you

>>98137688
If you have any leftover arms or bodies you can do a quick test model with your schemes in mind to see if it looks good or if you need some tweaks.

>>98137966
Nicely done, eyes are very well done.

>>98138824
Give it a try and let us know

File: sergeant.jpg (185 KB, 1163x1280)

185 KB JPG

>>98138824
That makes mustard gas so I wouldn't try it

>>98139672
Jokes aside, most people confuse Chloramine Gas with Mustard Gas, actual Mustard gas is a special recipe that you are not going to accidentally reproduce at home with cleaning chemicals, while Chloramine Gas is still quite dangerous, it does not have the famous properties of Mustard Gas.

File: 1706908454969161.jpg (136 KB, 1411x1600)

136 KB JPG

>>98139102
Oh, you mean the weld seams? Just seems like free texture to me.

File: 1780330725444.png (29 KB, 146x101)

29 KB PNG

>>98139710

>>98139710
That is pretty fucked up actually.

>>98139827
We can be the change we want to see in the world.

I was just shaking a paint bottle, and it flung out of my hand, and into a vent without a grate on it (trying to increase the AC to this room), and now I can't get it out...