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File: big_WIP_collage_05JUN2026.jpg (7.45 MB, 6000x5782)
7.45 MB JPG
Work in Progress, John Blanche Memorial Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>John Blanche discussing his art
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCOSao1KEQo

>An Interview with John Blanche
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqNLBQ17wlA

Previous threads:
>>98147417
>>98131913
>>98115664
>>
>>98162809
do you have a hand drill? an aligator clip? maybe a clothespin?
>>
File: 20260606_111844.jpg (1 MB, 3885x1253)
1 MB JPG
>>98163288
Compression seems to have wiped out the colours :/
Here's a more accurate one
>>
File: 20260606_111613.jpg (1.23 MB, 3816x1649)
1.23 MB JPG
>>98163330
>>
Can anyone recommend a paint for metallic purple?
I use Tamiya Clears X 22 or 23 for red and blue. But they don't mix to purple
Brush on or Airbrush

>>98162809
Folded up wet paper towel?
>>
>>98162444
what is easier: writing while holding a clipboard or writing on a desk? if you were trying to paint a postcard would you pin it to an easel or try to hold it in your hand? if you have shaky hands is it easier to pour tea into a cup you are holding or one sitting on the table?
>>
>>98163373
You do not hold a desk, easel or countertop in your hand while doing any of those things, none of these compare to a painting handle which is still you holding the miniature in your hand.
>>
>>98163365
Vallejo TMM Amethyst Air is pretty solid for a neutral purple metallic for airbrushes.
>>
File: IMG_5148.jpg (2.5 MB, 4031x2755)
2.5 MB JPG
Just a start
>>
>>98163385
>You do not hold a desk, easel or countertop in your hand while doing any of those things
yes that's what I'm getting at. trying to hold what you are painting with your hand is like writing on a clipboard. you are making it harder on yourself for no reason. put your miniature in a workholding device that doesn't require your body to hold in place.
>>
>>98163373
>>98163461
The point is to create a mechanical link between your hand and the piece, retard. Post your mini painting setup with your vise.
>>
>>98163461
the only one of those that remotely compares to a miniature in a table vice is painting on an easel, a case in which you are painting a flat surface from only one angle, a miniature is a 3D surface that you have to paint from all angles, so your vise would have to be mounted at just below eye level and you would continuously need to walk around it crouch under it and lean over top of it.
That is ridiculous.
>>
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>>98163478
>The point is to create a mechanical link between your hand and the piece
why the hell would you want that? no matter how you hold a clipboard it will always be easier to write on a desk. proper workholding will let you do the same thing with your paintbrush.

>>98163524
that's why you get a vise designed to rotate to any angle you want.
>>
>>98163558
Or, you can just put your elbow on the table.
>>
File: HKBaZvUWEAAuw16.jpg (395 KB, 914x1200)
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>>98162825
>John Blanche Memorial Edition
Would be nice to post minis/work inspired in some way by Blanche, too bad I don't have any myself, maybe I'll see what I can do with some old world minis.
>>
File: 20260605_171843.jpg (2.76 MB, 2932x2818)
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i have become acutely aware of just how spoiled I was with vallejo metal color
>>
File: thebigone.jpg (157 KB, 726x1280)
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"It came! It came! It finally came.... THE BIG ONE!"

Tiamat has arrived.... Leman Russ and Enginseer for scale.
>>
>>98163671
>Would be nice to post minis/work inspired in some way by Blanche
I like the way he decorated the weapons and armour of the Blood Angels on the 2nd Edition (my favourite edition!) boxed set with a black flame motif on the legs and helmets. Additionally, the Games Day miniature for 2012 was a FineCast rendition of the Blood Angels Captain from the front of the box.
>>
>>98163801
he cute
>>
>>98163832
Tiamat is a She.
>>
File: IMG_20260605_205711.jpg (1.05 MB, 1382x2340)
1.05 MB JPG
Rerurning to my Fallout board game project with this printed replacement for the shitty NCR Ranger sculpt it came with.
Hoping to finish the set this time, have the Caravan Merchant, Wastelander and Lone Gunslinger to do as well.
>>
File: IMG_20260605_212637.jpg (336 KB, 896x983)
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>>98163893
Had a go at the freehand while I wait for the base to dry.
>>
>>98163862
no
>>
>>98163893
what's going on with his rifle? did you get the 3d print model from bethesda?
>>
File: dark queen.jpg (278 KB, 1024x652)
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>>98163971
OG Mother of Dragons.
>>
>>98164000
What do you mean? And I don't remember where I got the file, I printed this guy well over a year ago and I'm just now painting him. I do remember I spent a few afternoons hunting down a good ranger STL though, lots of poorly optimized and/or posed ones floating around.
>>
>>98164000
desu it's not 1:1 but it does look like the anti-materiel rifle
>>
>>98164007
for some reason I was picturing the ncr ranger with the survivalist's rifle which is an ar-15. I looked up the image I was thinking of and he actually has the ranger sequoia in it so I was remembering wrong. I'm not sure what that frankengun is supposed to be though.
>>
>>98163558
>Paint how I paint or you're doing it wrong
ok
>>
Face 3 of my training arc. He definitely looks splotchy and still too pink in areas for my liking, but I think I'm starting to get the hang of character-level face painting. Gonna try to follow Vince for the next one.
>>
File: IMG_1150.jpg (3.33 MB, 5316x3399)
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Started working my backlog of Necrons
>>98163445
Looks like a good start
>>
File: 20260606_171110.jpg (1.93 MB, 2456x2785)
1.93 MB JPG
>>98163331
Got metal base coat on. That's all I have in me today. Got to tidy up all the edges of colours then do a big agrax wash then see what needs more layers and highlights.
>>
A store near me sells a bunch of tamiya products relating to decal application.
Which ones are the bare minimum necessary for applying decals and making sure everything goes smoothly?
And which ones are safe for bare acrylic surfaces if possible I think the mark strong has a disclaimer that it might hurt acrylic paint jobs.

I’ve never applied decals ever.
>>
>>98164180
Nice work. I don't even attempt such things :P
>>
>>98164282
micro sol and micro set are all you really need, if they don't have those the tamiya mark fit fills a similar role
I heard this on some sloptuber video but it's good advice: get some latex free makeup wedges from your grocery store too, they're great for smashing decals down onto rounded surfaces. And they don't leave fibers like paper towels will
>>
Guys, I'm being serious.
What the FUCK does Microset do that water doesn't? I understand Microsol, but Microset is a scam or something.
>>
>>98164291
Which role does mark fit fill?
>>98164295
I always thought that water was enough to soften the decal after cutting it off the “paper tray” it is on and put it in water.
>>
Pretty happy with how the nmm turned out
Just need to do the cloth, gems, and eyes before it’s ready for an oil wash
>>
>>98164279
Champions banner needs pinning too, snapp'd it when dropp'd it :(
>>
>>98164316
That looks frickin sick already anon
>>
>>98164325
Thanks! I'm kinda scared to do gloss varnish on it (for the oil wash) since I've not used Vallejo gloss acrylic before. Might try it on a sacrificial spoon or mini first
>>
>>98164180
I'm shit at doing faces. I saw this method recently and I might try to use it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1a2djIBnXA
>>
>>98164301
The local store only sells tamiya hobby products in the paint and tools section.
So for a retard that never applied decals to an acrylic painted surface what should I get?

And will Ak gloss varnish be strong enough to create a surface for mark fit? The regular one not the strong one.
I’ve learned of the decal adhesives from the regular to the softener.
I’m not sure if those are necessary or just good to have in case.
>>
>>98164151
you can paint while upside down hanging by your feet for all I care, but don't post bullshit and then pretend it's not bullshit when you get called out. using your fucking hand is never going to be the most stable workholding option.
>>
>>98164180
personally I think highlighting with cream color is a mistake. it always ends up looking like face paint. like you can clearly see the lines drawn on his cheeks in your image. the same goes for doing it with hands. people try to do knuckle highlights but it ends up looking like mr. bones.
>>
>>98164740
So… you don’t need micron precision. The highest tier mini painters don’t use a vice. Because it limits your mobility in manipulating the mini and getting the right angles. It will only handicap you
>>
>>98164740
Post your vise
>>
>>98164770
the initial question was what is more stable when you have hand problems, and anchoring your part to the bench is absolutely more stable than trying to hold it with your other hand. I don't give a shit what the "highest tier mini painters" do because it's obvious that mini painters all have galapagos syndrome and wouldn't use a useful tool even if you threw it at them until gw or vallejo started selling a branded one. a vise is good enough for engraving jewelry and filing on tiny clock parts so it's certainly good enough for painting figurines.
>>
>>98164823
You need a vise for jewelry because using a graver actually requires force you fucking retard
>>
>>98164489
Gemini says Ak gloss varnish is okay.
I’m not sure how trustworthy ai is when I can’t get answers here and the other forums don’t feel genuine.
I’m sorry lads.
>>
File: pvp-381_xv_xl.jpg (96 KB, 1000x1000)
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>>98164810
I'm not posting my bench so you can try to stalk me but I have this with different jaws I milled out. put your part on the end of a stick and clamp the stick in the vise and you can get any angle you want.

>>98164825
I can file a piece of spring steel while holding it in my hand, but I don't because that's fucking stupid.
>>
>>98164839
>filing (which is miserable in your hand anyways) is the same as engraving a delicate pattern on jewelry
Are you retarded?
>>
>>98164823
Your answer is wrong because it focuses solely on stability and not workability. Using a bench vise is overkill stability wise at the severe cost of manipulability and ergonomics, therefore not a useful tool.
>>
File: IMG_0956.jpg (2.92 MB, 4000x5457)
2.92 MB JPG
About ready to call her done
>>
>>98164864
He is proclaiming everyone else is wrong. Despite the fact no professional or high skill painter does this. Yes. He is either an actual retard, or self obsessed.
I bet he has a perfect solution to the economy as well.
>>
>>98163558
>no matter how you hold a clipboard it will always be easier to write on a desk.
i mean, your hand is resting on it, so... a 'mechanical link'
>>
>>98164295
I already told you like two threads ago.
>>
File: comp.jpg (3.94 MB, 3846x3495)
3.94 MB JPG
Done with the kitbashed Repulsor.
1/2.
>>
File: closeup.jpg (2.94 MB, 2419x2004)
2.94 MB JPG
>>98165219
2/2
>>
>>98165221
>>98165219
the new green is really nice, feels very realistic
>>
>doing a bit of gap filling
>add thinner to my Tamiya putty
>wtf why isn't this thinning
>turns out I grabbed a bottle of alcohol instead of my airbrush cleaner
I am not a clever man.
>>
>>98165219
>>98165221
its beautiful but too realistic for my taste
>>
File: Untitled1.jpg (790 KB, 1976x1480)
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>>98163671
Well I did this conversion a few months ago, inspired by the marshal from his black templars artwork

>>98163823
The black flames on the blood angels look great, it's cool that gw brought them back on the captain from the new edition box, which makes sense considering even the box art was inspired by the piece you posted

>>98165219
>>98165221
As expected, it looks fantastic. I'm not sure if I prefer the old green or this one, but it does fit a more milsim vibe which I understand is what you want for your marines.
How long did you spend on it?
>>
File: IMG_20260606_145704.jpg (805 KB, 1539x2154)
805 KB JPG
Far from done obviously, but for a test, i'm enjoying the process. I'll be using black and red as secondary colors, so how should i paint the helmet? Orange faceplate and black helmet or vice versa?
>>
>>98165527
Paint the helmet white.
>>
>>98165538
TEAL
>>
>>98165425
That’s amazing!
I need to know what you did for the shoulderpads and whether you used masking tape as well.
Generally what was the process that went into making and painting that model?
I love it.
>>
>>98165219
>>98165221
Uncle Nightshift would be proud of you.
>>
>>98165425
Brother, that is SICK AS FUCK! Fantastic work!
>>
File: Anti-materiel_rifle.jpg (29 KB, 1000x237)
29 KB JPG
>>98164090
>frankengun
get your eyes checked kid
>>
>>98165372
>>98165406
Thanks, anons!

>>98165425
Thank you, BTanon, I appreciate it. I would say around three weeks of actual work. There's a fair bit of waiting involved with all the enamel/varnish layers drying. And I also went back and redid a few things, both during the build and painting. I think it could be done a bit faster.

>>98165681
Haha, thank you! I'm afraid he wouldn't, I omitted the steel texturing/welding, and I already regret it. It's such a little thing, but it makes such a difference with the final model.
>>
File: HHEZKcYaMAAtLCl.jpg (502 KB, 2048x1526)
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>>98165791
would the Mechanicus use textured steel and welding on Space Marine tanks, though? I do not think so.
Imperial Guard stuff, yeah, sure. But not SM. (pic related)
>>
>>98165878
Awesome stuff, anon. Love the faded offwhite. But yeah, that reasoning was my excuse, too, it makes sense. But I'll do it next time anyway. Softer, less pronounced texture, but the visual gain is too good to ignore. I'll probably skip the rough welding, though.
>>
>>98165878
>would the Mechanicus use textured steel and welding on Space Marine tanks, though?
it seems like they also woulnd't use treads anymore but treads and welds look better
>>
>>98164002
12 year old me jacked to that pic.
>>
File: 20260606_092135.jpg (2.49 MB, 4000x3000)
2.49 MB JPG
Just realized that the neon colors I've been using glow under black light. My Necron army looks cool.
>>
File: what helmet.jpg (3.44 MB, 7000x4160)
3.44 MB JPG
which helmet for my sorcerer in night lords warband
>>
>>98165940
Number 3. He can't turn his head with the horns.
>>
>>98165940
#2, but cut the horns off.
>>
>>98164864
are you? it doesn't matter if you are using a pencil, a file, or an engraving tool. doing precise work on something that you're holding in your hand will always be more difficult than if it's fixed in place.

>>98164961
>Using a bench vise is overkill stability wise
it's not and it's especially not if you have shaky hands or arthritis.
>at the severe cost of manipulability and ergonomics
you can't possibly think that having to use both hands for something is easier than only needing one. you are just arguing to be contrary because you think new ideas are insulting your way of life or something.

>>98165067
I already pointed out that professional painters use easels. stop thinking that you can't learn from outside your hobby and that something isn't worth doing unless your favorite sloptuber is shilling it.
>>
What's a good paint for the classic tau ochre scheme if I don't want to get the citadel tau ochre
>>
>>98165527
wow it's cool that they made a paint that's the exact color of the cheese powder for macaroni and cheese
>>
>>98164839
>I'm not posting my bench so you can try to stalk me
Get a grip mate
>>
>>98165221
I rembender this tank when you first posted it
The marine looks good
>>
>>98166079
I'll take your word for it, best keep it far from am*ricans
>>
>>98166091
He doesn't need a grip, that's what the vise is for
>>
File: Buge.gif (7.57 MB, 818x754)
7.57 MB GIF
>>98162825
Not sure if it fits the general, but i've been trying sculpting miniatures in blender recently
>>
>>98166113
he cute
>>
File: last.jpg (3.63 MB, 3000x4000)
3.63 MB JPG
last ork of the combat patrol done - he thought he could escape the brush by hiding under my desk.
I have a snazzwagon to do but im kinda lost on what to do after that - ive preordered Armageddon so might work out fine
>>
>>98166124
Thx anon, that was the idea, small guy with big ambitions, might make some friends for him later, started to come up with a bunch of head canon for him in the process
>>
File: Dick Pic.jpg (15 KB, 262x280)
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>>98166104
>>
>>98164342
I keep saying, always do a test mini before doing one you actually care about to work out the kinks in a process. You can then go into the minis you want to look good with confidence in your process.
>>
>>98166139
even orks can't shoot out of undrilled shootas
>>
>super glue misted again
How do I remove super glue mist off a resin miniature from most cast resin to 3d printed resin?
And is there more to preventing most than using too much super glue?


>>98166113
Not a bad start! Keep going anon!
What blender tutorial finally helped you learn the ropes?
I need a good tutorial to crack through my thick skull.
>>
>>98166334
Use better quality glue and not the cheapest shit. Also, to remove it: Debonder exists.
>>
>>98166334
Debonder, or just snap it off with a pair of pliers/toenail clippers. It doesn't bond to resin that strongly. For the most part super glue shouldn't frost if you're not using accelerant, consider getting a big bottle of UV resin and a UV flashlight to permabond resin models if you keep having issues with cyanoacrylate.
>>
File: 20260225_193012.jpg (253 KB, 1018x1262)
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>>98165694
>>98165554
Thanks lads
For the shoulder pads I just painted some random bright gold swirls over a darker gold basecoat, over a brown basecoat.
I didn't use masking tape- I just eyeballed the hazard stripes, if that's what you're referring to.

>Generally what was the process that went into making and painting that model
I started from a sword brother model, filed away some regalia and then it was just mostly cutting away at limbs and joints to make all the parts from other kits fit together nicely. I got the weapons from bitzstore (not sure what older kits they belonged to), the backpack is from the emperor's champion, head from the BT upgrade sprue. The various tubes I cut off from random bits I had laying around. Was a fun experience.

>>98165791
>three weeks
Damn, it shows, well done.

>>98165940
Mid is probably the more unique one for a sorc but the psychic hood does interfere with it. Right is cool as well, left looks a bit too standard csm maybe.
>>
File: Collage.png (2.77 MB, 3000x2000)
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>>98166334
There was a bunch of them i watched over the past few months, MWsculpts ones are think were the most useful? he even has a free pre-made rig for hands.
Heres some more stuff i made
>>
>>98165940
2 is the most eye-catching. Sure, he can't turn his head, but rule of cool means it is OK
>>
>>98166274
Eldar chads win again
>>
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NCR Ranger finished.
>>
>>98166968
Nice. I kinda want one now.
>>
File: IMG_20260606_125305.jpg (1.13 MB, 2003x1706)
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Just these 3 left.
>>
What’s the best way to strip a large mini? I normally soak em in alcohol but I don’t have enough for that here (and it would be a waste)
>>
>>98167197
>(and it would be a waste)
It will be a long while before IPA goes bad. You can re-use it, too.
>>
>>98166968
Based bottle cap base
>>
After painting some realistically scaled models, I'm really beginning to understand the value of heroic scale. Heroic scale is just so much better to paint (when GW hasn't tacked on a million belts and greebles).
>>
Trying to paint my first model and I keep thinking I've ruined it
>>
>>98167611
How about posting a picture?
>>
>>98167611
post it
>>
File: file.png (6.25 MB, 2160x2880)
6.25 MB PNG
>>98167645
I'm working with the starter paint and tools set
>>
>>98167676
look fine aside from falling for the black primer meme
>>
>>98167676
He looks fine, just make sure you get a nice consistant base colour and you can neaten up any mistakes after
>>
>>98167611
That's normal. Good news is you haven't regardless of what you've done, the bad news is it's probably average for new painters (and therefore bad.)

>>98167676
This is totally fine, actually. The leather pack on the ground could use some shading and the red/skin could use a layer or two of highlights and/or shading, but this is solidly clean for a first time, the coverage isn't even all that bad.
>>
File: 20260607_085720.jpg (1.6 MB, 3905x1968)
1.6 MB JPG
>>98164279
Big ol', dang ol' Agrax wash
>>
>>98165940
They're all valid, it's hard to tell which vibes suit the best without seeing what your paint scheme will look like.
The backpack will make a huge difference.

Number 2 is the most unique, you should leave the horns intact, but you can shave down the bottom (where it joins the body) with a flat file so it sits lower in the neck-hole of the armour. It actually looks cool because the horns are gigantic but won't hit the psychic hood.

Also, fix the mould lines on that arm.
>>
File: innocentelfmaidens.jpg (201 KB, 742x1073)
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28mm is too small for my old eyes. Maybe I should buy one of those dorky magnifier headsets.
>>
>>98167197
Brush biostrip onto it.
>>
File: bleh.png (678 KB, 671x665)
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>keep going back and forth over one eye fixing up overspill because it keeps looking way too big compared to the other one
>change light angle a little and squint
>there's actually just a big divot in the side of the nose and what I thought was paint overspill was just a shadow
bleh
>>
>>98165940
2
>>
>>98167773
That you should, because let's face it, the scale doesn't determine how small the finest details are, moulding technology and what the sculptor can be assed with does. So you might have an entire hand as a basic blob in really small scale, individual fingers on a larger scale one, and ridges&blood vessels on the hand in an even larger one. But these features on the model all end up being equally large and thus equally hard to see&paint. So it isn't 28mm that your eyes can't handle any more, it's just finely detailed stuff in general.
>>
got my first sable brush today after painting for a good 5 months or so on and off and i feel like it's downright fucking irresponsible that people in this hobby try and tell new painters they don't need to start with a sable brush. ive been using all kinds of synthetics over these handful of months including stuff from the mini specific companies like Citadel, Army Painter and Tamiya and within literal seconds of using this sable brush things that didn't make sense/I couldn't understand previously suddenly clicked. just basic layering and detailing is like night and day. for a hobby you'll eventually spend over $1000 on i can't imagine why you would ever tell someone not to just start with a sable brush and save the confusion
>>
>>98167611
>>98167676
Its paint and plastic Anon, there is nothing to ruin. You can always paint over it, or scrape some paint off spots and paint it again. Worst possible option you strip the model and start over from scratch. Unless you melt the fucker in a vat of acetone you really can't ruin it.

Your first model is always going to look chopped, you're learning how to thin and apply paint, learning to blend, learning to shade, and learning brush control. Just take your time, be patient with yourself, and have fun. You can only get better.

And be sure to never repaint your first model. It will serve as a good yardstick to measure your progress against in the future. Can always look back and see how far you've come.
>>
>>98167692
w-what’s wrong with black primer…
>>
File: Karnak Twins.png (500 KB, 618x676)
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>>98165940
2 without the horns looks almost like the Karnak twins.
>>
>>98167611
Good news, this is quite literally the worst thing you'll ever paint
Bad news, this is quite literally the worst thing you'll ever band
Weird news, you didn't post a picture for us to critique so we can't help you
Unless your first model is something OOP, expensive, or hard to come by, you really haven't ruined it. Even if it is any of those things, you can always strip it when you're better.
But don't strip your first because it'll stand as a benchmark for your improvement for years to come.
>>
>>98168414
I wouldn't recommend a sable brush at first just so someone doesn't spend a bunch of excess cash on a hobby they may not like. After a few minis and you find that you enjoy the process sure, but with hobbying its too easy to fall into the hole of "I need to have all of the top of the line tools from the get go" trap.
>>
>>98168436
Nothing, it's Nintendo vs Playstation bullshit.
>>
Anyone have a favored face painting tutorial video you think does a good job of laying things out? Bonus points if it's for a paler skin that's flushed from the cold since that's exactly what I'm trying to paint.
I've been looking at some for a while for both basics and advanced faces and they're really all over the place. Vince, bless the man, does not have a good video on painting faces. He goes too fast, doesn't really lay out what he's doing, and really doesn't even tell you what paints he's using half the time in the video. Duncan's is fine but even the advanced one doesn't look particularly interesting in terms of contrast. And holy shit, the GW "getting better at faces" video is down right irresponsible with how shit of a job they do. Even their primer is fucked and textured.
>>
>>98168472
Watch a general mini painting tutorial for techniques, then watch normal art tutorials to learn how to paint faces.
>>
>>98167676
Your models are gonna look shitty for a while. Just try to learn with every one. I started with a skaven starter box and it took me all 20 rats to start feeling like I was getting the hang of things
>>
>>98168436
Nothing at all.
If you like to work from dark to light black primer is the obvious choice, and it hides missed spots to boot.
If you're undecided or a nonconformist, grey primer covers any need you might have by being completely neutral and having no particular advantages or disadvantages.
If you want super bright, saturated colors at the cost of every missed spot shining like a beacon, white is a great primer.
If you have intimate knowledge of what exactly you're painting and what universal base color or undershade would work best for your paint scheme, other colors work better than the basic 3 values, but you wouldn't need advice about black primer if you were advanced enough to use them.
>>
>>98168414
What’s the big difference?
>>
>>98168436
unless you're painting mostly black or metallic, starting from a light grey primer just saves a lot of work/time. particularly with bright, saturated or warm colours, why make things harder for yourself? it's mostly old painters (and some youtubers) that cling to their black primer as a badge of honour rather than using the right tool for a job.
>>
>>98168502
sunk cost
>>
>>98168502
NTA, but broadly speaking, sable brushes are softer and hold a point much, much longer than synthetic brushes. You can work with the hook synthetic brushes inevitably gain after a few uses, but sables both doesn't get a hook if properly washed and dried between uses and is soft enough to flow into beautifully straight lines for detailed freehanding. Synthetics are still my workhorses but when it comes to finishing details I'll always break out my sable - on the other hand, I've found sable too frustratingly floppy for base coats.
>>
>>98168502
real sable holds water and paint a lot better than synthetics and doesn't get hooked tips. With proper care sable can last for years, while a craft store synthetic might last a month or two. The hooking that synthetics do comes from the plastic bristles splitting on a microscopic level, and it is impossible to repair.
>>
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>>98168472
>>
Show me someone clowning on black primer and I’ll show you a contrast paint shitter
>>
>>98168414
The reasons people don't recommend an expensive sable brush for noobies is because
1. They probably have no brush control so they won't be making use of the precision a sable brush gives anyway
2. They lack knowledge of brush care so the brush would be trash within a month
At least those are my reasons. I always say to start out with cheap trash brushes, then get some decent synthetics that can hold a point. Once you feel those are holding you back from improving, then you go for a high end brushes.
>>
>>98168436
Absolutely nothing. It will give you your shadows for places you can't really reach with the brush.
I will say that for a lot of colors, like lighter colors or translucent pigments like red, basecoat over the black primer with something like Mournfang brown. It'll cover the black easily while also giving a a much better undercoat for reds or other colors that don't cover black well.
>>
>>98168504
Nothing to do with age, we had white primer back then too. It depends on if you prefer dark to light or light to dark. Grey primer is the worst of both worlds.
>>
>>98168502
I feel like I immediately noticed how much more control it has. I made the thinnest most precise stroke I’ve ever painted without even intending to and the way it holds and releases paint in the belly is night and day from any of the synthetics I’ve used. Went from feeling like I was using a hatchet to a scalpel. Got a gorgeous opaque bicep layer on this FEC I’m working on so effortlessly I could cry
>>
Am I a weirdo if I paint dark to light and then back to dark? Feel like I always like to touch up my shadows at the end and glaze a nice transition
>>
>>98168620
even now most white primers provide a dogshit chalky painting surface. black made sense then, and the boomers are stuck in their ways preaching outdated gospel about not having to paint shadows or some shit.
>>
>>98168641
If you ever feel like a weirdo, watch Vince on his contest painting vids go from dark to ultra bright, straight back down to midtone, and then glaze back up to bright. It works for him, but it makes me feel like I've taken crazy pills.
>>
>>98168641
What do you mean by touch up? Did you accidentally paint over them in parts, or did you not make them dark enough from the start or something? If the former, that's normal, if the latter, you're inefficient.
>>
>>98168641
I do that sometimes depending on the colors, like most of the browns I have are either too dark or too light for the tones I want so I'll just do everything lighter and then aggressively wash it down to the shades I want
>>
>>98168641
you go back and forth as much as you need to aichieves your desired results, but most importatly do whatever works for you and don't be afraid to experiment and change your ways (or not)

that's it, that's everything there is to say, stop caring about anyone else's hard stances on how to do shit in a HOBBY about putting colors on small models
>>
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Got the pathfinders ready to prime. And I forgot I had a bunch of gen1 drones I never painted.
>>
You ever do something by accident that you couldn’t do on purpose?
>>
>>98168742
I guess even in the grim darkness of the future they still have lazy eye.
>>
>>98168742
He's just keeping one eye on his soulstones.
>>
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>>98162825
Since I don’t have any white paint, should I buy this Golden Titanium White?
>>
>>98168414
what's the deal with weasel fur brushes when you are using enamels? people say the thinner will destroy the brush so does that mean you can only paint enamel with synthetic brushes?
>>
>>98168620
>if you prefer dark to light or light to dark
one of these is objectively easier than the other. unless you have a real reason to paint the dark color first, like because you are masking a pattern off or something, black primer is just making things harder on yourself for no reason.
>>
>>98169050
Its not the enamels that will fuck up a natural hair brush, its the odorless mineral spirits/thinner that you use to clean the brush. It will dry out natural hairs and make them brittle. Same when I work with oil paints, I use white taklon brushes for the work. I also use them as workhorse brushes for acrylic basecoats, its softer than golden taklon and has a softer snap. Also holds its shape and tip for a decent amount of time, I got through the orruk side of my dominion box with the same size 2 brush before the tip started to curl.
>>
>>98169064
>one of these is objectively easier than the other.
Is it the one where you retroactively have to put shades in hard to reach crevices?
>>
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>>98163330
Looks good. I got curious, wanted to see them if you kept the mint chip basing. If they were mine I'd have went for it.
>>
>>98169038
Don't know anything about soflat, but Pro Acryl's titanium white is excellent.
>>
>>98169140
>Pro Acryl's titanium white
Not available in my country
>>
>>98169038
If you're going off the reservation anyway, the best whites are lead based. Just wash your hands and don't lick your brush.
>>
>>98168596
I'm a black primer contrast paint shitter, now what?
>>
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>>98169114

Thanks, I might add in some different colours to the bases but I'm liking the contrast of neutral gray to the red and green.
Update: Currently in progress of changing the jakhal skin tone direction to more cold colours. Not sure what I'm going to do with the zerker champ banner. Maybe leopard hide, with "DIE" on it or "KILL" .. Ideas?
>>
>>98168742
My kid.
>>
Instead of painting I just put down texture paste on a squad. Sad day
>>
>>98169376
Better than nothing man.. I know that feel
>>
>>98169082
just paint before assembly.

>>98169376
>anon's army
>>
>>98169385
No not like that!
Although maybe as a substitute for typhus corrosion...
>>
>>98169385
>just paint before assembly.
Now you're complicating things.
>>
>>98169271
looks great
they should already scan those berserkers because im not made of money and i dont have a time machine either
doesnt help that my old ones are not in any condition to be salvaged
>>
>>98169504
Cheers anon. They aren't toooo expensive on ebay atm, cheaper than the current box anyway.
>>
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You've heard of the tactical rock, well now get ready for the tactical daemon
>>
Anyone go from a homemade to a store bought wet palette? Been getting a little frustrated with mine and wonder if it’s worth shelling out
>>
>>98169742
i dont really see what difference it makes other than the hole in my wallet
>>
>>98169674
*Gwaar* -hop
>>
>>98168742
new whatsapp profile picture unlocked, thank you anon
>>
>>98168742
this is the nigga calling you a mon-keigh
>>
>>98169420
painting before assembly saves you way more trouble than it causes. unless the part needs gap filling after putting it together there's basically no reason not to.
>>
>>98169833
It's messy. You have to sand down the parts to be glued, glue can get on the paint, you have to manhandle painted parts with the risk of damaging the paint. It sucks. Also, if you do even a little bit of converting you'll have to gap fill and shave down parts all the time.
>>
>>98169961
This.
And even if everything fits perfectly, glue is applied in the just right amounts, and you do not mess up the paint.. it just takes longer, and creates more work than painting a completed miniature.
>>
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>>98163330
>>98163331
>>98164279
>>98167726

Whaaaat noo! I've been gone a while...i miss the minty green planet bases

Working on my next commission but currently organizing my shit cuz last time i posted someone called me a filthy slob
>>
>>98168414
idk why either. Sables are what, $30 for 1 brush? How many brushes do you really need? There's literally zero reason to ever cheap out on brushes.
>>
>>98170702
>zero reason to ever cheap out on brushes.
For people who are new and don't know how to use or care for a brush? There's absolutely a reason to start them out on cheap shit. They WILL ruin those brushes through ignorance. Imagine if you were new and you fucked up your $30 brush by letting too much paint wick up into the ferrule, or left it tip down in your water cup. Or even just using it too aggressively and bending the tip. This is shit a lot of new painters would absolutely do.
>How many brushes do you really need?
For high quality sables alone you probably want 3. 1 for regular paints, 1 for metallics, and a smaller one for the absolute tiniest details. Then you need brushes for slopping on base coats, dry brushes, brushes to apply texture pastes and other shit that will damage your brush. If you're painting anything bigger than a Terminator you probably want some bigger brushes so you can finish before the heat death of the universe.
So you should have a fair array of brushes.
>>
>>98170759
You can use your older/retired sable brushes for slopping on layers, since they still retain their paint-carrying properties, even when they lose their tips.
>>
>>98170759
>smaller one for the absolute tiniest details
Incorrect, a medium to large brush with an ultra fine point is what you need for details, a smaller brush results in frustration from insufficient paint load and fast drying, this doesn't let you finish the strokes you are attempting and ruins the brush quickly.
But most importantly you need to be very good at preserving that brushes tip as it is easy to fuck it up, if you don't have that skill you are better off buying a large quantity of synthetic brushes that start off with an ultra fine tip and switching them out as you ruin those tips.
>>
>>98170759
>For people who are new and don't know how to use or care for a brush? There's absolutely a reason to start them out on cheap shit.
NTA, but this is a stupid assumption. Just fucking learn how to care about your brush, it takes less than ten minutes.

>>98170803
>a smaller brush results in frustration from insufficient paint load and fast drying
Use retarder. Why are anons seemingly unaware of this incredible concoction?
>>
>>98170803
not entirely true, a small brush is easier to navigate between other details you don't want to get paint onto with the sides of your brush
>>
>>98170702
>There's literally zero reason to ever cheap out on brushes
im still using the cheapest synthetic brushes there is and ive been at it for almost 30 years now
expensive brushes sound expensive and apprently need some maintenance as well
>>98170759
>For people who are new and don't know how to use or care for a brush
do you use brush soap bought from a hobby store or from a grocery store
>>
>>98170807
can you elaborate on the retarder? I struggle with small details (like eyes and stuff) because the small brushes (like 000) are extremely fragile or the paint just dries before I even hit the model (or maybe I didn't put enough on). If I sufficiently thin the paint and wipe off the excess, then it doesn't do anything when I put it on the model.
>>
>>98170819
paint retarder is a mix-in that is designed to "retard" (slow) the drying of the paint
not commonly used in miniature painting, but not impossible to find
>>
>>98170819
After you thin your paints as usual, add a drop of retarder for every ~5 drops of paint. You can experiment with different ratios, but you should keep it low. It will prevent paint from drying, allowing you to paint tinniest details with tinniest amounts of paint on the brush.
Every company makes their own retarder (not sure about Citadel), but any acrylic retarder should work fine. I personally use AK retarder.

It also allows for much simpler blending, naturally.

>>98170824
AK makes one, and Vallejo does, as well.
>>
>>98170819
For those tiny details I don't think you need anything smaller than a size 0. Any smaller and you don't have enough moisture
>>
>>98170827
Is there a difference between the AK retarders? They make 2. 1 is called "retarder- auxiliary" and the other is "drying retarder"
>>
What super glue do you guys recommend? I used to get revel contacta, but the nozzle always gets clogged with dried glue, and that's quite annoying.
>>
>>98170808
>get paint onto with the sides of your brush
in those cases you can just get the tip of the brush wet with paint instead of loading up, it will be a lot easier to clean just the tip of a medium to large brush than the whole of a very small brush without causing damage to the tip.
>>
>>98170837
There shouldn't be any difference, but get the Auxiliary one, it's newer 3gen stuff. Lesser chance you'll get some crusty ass 10 years old bottle.

>>98170838
Starbond THICC
>>
>>98170843
Thanks, would you say using plastic glue is preferable, or?
>>
>>98170852
Using plastic cement is always preferable, but it obviously works only on plastic. If you have no clue about cement, then I recommend buying a bottle of Tamiya Thin for that handy lil bottle with the brush/applicator. Once you run out, get a bottle of Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner and use it to refill your cement. It's exactly the same thing (less than ~1% chemical difference), but it costs a lot less.

For resin/metal, superglue is required. I personally like Starbond Thick, as mentioned, but they also make fantastic medium thick, if you want it to run a bit more.
>>
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>>98170832
>size 0
useless measurement, brush sizes are not standardised
these are the details brushes i use descending order - the smallest brush is used only for the tiniest details such as reflections in eyes
>>
>>98170861
I mainly use plastic, yep. I haven't been using tamiya because I heard its smell is really strong, and I'm afraid my flatmate would bitch for sure. Revel is noticeable but not nearly as strong.
>>
>>98170883
Tamiya's fine, but if you REALLY care for smell, you can get Mr. Cement S instead. It's touch gentler, and smells a lot less. A lot of scale modellers prefer it.
>>
>>98170852
plastic is best if you're working with plastic. Citadel has the best plastic glue no question. Tamiya is a lot thinner and I never had a good experience with it, models would just fall apart after any sort of handling.
>>
>>98170903
What a faggy shitpost.
>>
>>98170824
>>98170827
>AK makes one, and Vallejo does, as well.
It's a pretty deep secret but miniature painters are allowed in art stores.
>>98170880
>GodHand
I unironically did the
>thing, Japan
meme.
That's a crazy point. Do you freehand with it?
>>
>>98170914
>It's a pretty deep secret but miniature painters are allowed in art stores.
Last time I went to a local art store they released the hounds on me.
>>
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>>98170803
>>98170807
>>98170808
>>98170839
Counterpoint, synthetic script/liner brush. Long belly holds plenty of paint so it won't dry out, and it holds a sharp accurate tip for detail work.
>>
>>98170929
This anon knows. I tend to prefer golden taklon though, white taklon is rougher in my experience.
>>
>>98170759
I love how the explanation always just assumed that new painters are mentally handicapped. Part of finding out what a sable brush is is learning that you have to take care of it. It’s a hobby that requires precision out the gate. Someone going to the trouble of asking or googling what brush they need is capable of not painting like a toddler
>>
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While we're on the topic of brush shapes, more Anons need to give filberts a try.
>>
>>98170951
>new painters are mentally handicapped.
Are we really pretending we didn't kill our first paintbrush?
It's making a mountain out of a molehill anyway, you get sable-pilled quickly if you actually pay attention to painting.
>>
>>98170852
Plastic glue for assembly, super glue for affixing to a base. That way you can remove and rebase if you ever want to.
>>
>>98170239
OK ok I'll rebase a couple and have a real hard think looking at the two side by side :P
>>
>>98170970
>you get sable-pilled quickly if you actually pay attention to painting
Well that’s the point. There’s a narrative that you don’t need and shouldn’t start out with a sable brush and all it does is scare people away from something they absolutely should get sooner than later. We should be telling newbies to pick up a sable alongside the synthetics they’ll use for base coats and messier jobs not telling them they’re too stupid to use a good paintbrush so that they’re afraid to even try until. The things you learn about mini painting make so much more sense when you have a brush that properly holds and releases paint in your hand. But I also find the whole idea that $30 is expensive for a paintbrush that’ll last you years and hundreds of hours of painting is ludicrous.
>>
I have 2 sable brushes that I never use. Modern synthetics are good enough and don't involve unnecessary animal cruelty. I've only been painting for 20 years, though.
>>
>>98171126
>Modern synthetics are good enough
your finger is good enough too if you don't care about how much time and effort it takes
>>
>>98170927
Weird, mine are almost exclusively staffed by cute art students. I really enjoy discussing stuff with them.
>>
>>98171189
Buy an ad weasel slaughterer ( jokes :P)

>>98171193
I feel 100x less uncomfortable at my art store than the WarhammerTM / LGS
>>
>>98171126
You already own the brushes, not using them won't un-shave those weasels
>>
>>98171126
Post minis.
Plenty of people have painting for a long time and theyre still pretty bad at it, and I dont take advice from mediocre painters.
>>
>>98171126
You either don't paint at all or your minis are average at best so your opinion is worth less than actual dogshit. You should find something better to do with your time than posting low effort bait on a buthanese stone carving forum, it would definitely help your degrading mental health.
>>
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>tfw I don't use sables either for a good reason
>>
>>98171126
is it more cruel to buy and use animal product or to buy it and then toss it aside so the animal died for nothing
>>
>>98171371
Is the good reason that you don't paint well enough for it to really matter anyway?
>>
>>98171450
No animal is dying because of brushes as brushes are usually a by-product of fur farming. Which is one of the worst, most subhuman, disgusting things done by mankind atm. Especially since majority of it is sourced from Puccia and China, so you can imagine the standards there.
>>
Look, I'm sorry, but I've painted with sables and synthetics and I'm willing to kill some weasels to not have a miserable time with my hobby the way I have with synthetic brushes. If we could do sustainable weasel no-kill farming I'd be happy to pay 100$ per brush, but I'm keeping my sable brushes. Even if it means I have to buy a live Sable and keep it as a pet to shave and get brushes out of.
>>
I dont give a fuck about weasels lmao, what the fuck is this pussy bitch behavior
>>
No product is 100% ethical. The cost of vegan shit just isn’t as easily clipped into emotionally manipulative footage. If you’re buying something you’re doing harm somewhere. Gotta decide what your line is.
>>
im a better painter because i have more expensive gear than everyone else
>>
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>>98171453
Quality of the paint job is subjective, but I paint with oils and am rough with the brushes, pinching the bristles and squeezing them to remove paint instead of rinsing them between similar dark colors. Thinner also isn't great for the long term health of natural hair.
>>
>>98171512
>>98171519
>>98171521
Extremely low IQ poster(s).
>>
>>98171525
>Quality of the paint job is subjective
Nonsense.
>>
>>98171526
t. Weasel
>>
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I was posting progress here so I guess it is okay to post final results of my custom plastic girls model. If anyone is interested, I made 30 pic gallery at adress: https://sabi-sif.mb4.pl/gunpla-mg-rg-other/30ms-ingrid/

Thanks for advices you provided along the way. Also, I guess I should make more contrasting shading next time since it barely show on pictures themselves.
>>
>want to paint such and such model or faction
>lets look up some videos for inspiration on technique, colors, etc
>contrast paint slop
Hate these fucking things. I just want to see some good layering for once instead of every paint job being a white dry brush and slathering speed paints
>>
>>98171371
>>98171525
It's because you're a faggot, right? I mean that part is clear in the way you spoiler text things that aren't spoilers.
>>
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>>98171541
Art is one of the most subjective of the human experiences. Art can speak differently to different people, and can have different meaning.
>>
>>98171588
I don't use contrast paints at all, ever, but I do still start all my projects with a white drybrush, it helps with layering, it's not exclusively a tool for contrast slop.
>>
>>98171594
meant for >>98171587
>>
Hey I just remembered darkest dungeon and remember the artstyle has just black eyes.
Now it looks stupidly simple that it loops back into being complicated if a phenomenon ever existed.
Seems like just black paint and then a black wash or could just be a black wash into the eye region if the eyes are recess details.

Has anybody here tried this kind of eye painting style? Hoping for examples of it done here please.
>>
>>98171588
Its not my fault that you're unhappy Anon, and there is nothing I can do to change that for you.
>>
>>98171573
cute girlpla
>>
>>98171573
She's super cute and I think the end result of that semi transparent cloth turned out really nice!
>>
>>98171573
it looks good but you should reexamine which parts of a body stocking are tight against the skin and which parts are pulled away. I think that amount of shading is fine. more than that looks unnatural.
>>
>>98171643
If you can't write it without me needing to mouse over it, I'm not going to read it.
You're not special.
>>
>>98171587
>a white dry brush and slathering speed paints
but is that all, or is just the base layer
>>
Contrast chads stay winning
>>
>>98171588
Sometimes spoilering things is fun
>>
>>98171589
We're not talking about "is zenithal with an oil wash better than eavy metal", there is such a thing as a skilled paint job and an unskilled paint job.
I don't know how you could go out of you way to use oil paints if you don't think the results you get are better somehow.
>>
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>>98171883
Never claimed to be special, I'm sorry that it upsets you.
>>
>>98171931
lmao
>>
>>98171573
She cute. Would. The auburn hair with gold eyes looks good.
>>
>>98171929
In a lot of cases you can achieve about the same end result with an oil wash vs manually dark lining, but using an oil wash is 100x easier and faster.
>>
>>98171995
>>98171777
>>98171752
>>98171679
Thanks. As for body stocking, Im honestly not which parts should be more highlighted than others in this case, on those rather round sections. I kinda understand that more streached parts should as result cover skin less but aside from that, not much. It looks better than last time so at least I get better at this.
>>
I’m considering just skipping the oil wash. Thoughts?
>>
>>98171929
>I don't know how you could go out of you way to use oil paints if you don't think the results you get are better somehow.

Well, I like how it looks so that works for me. I also found that I enjoy the process of painting with oil paints, being able to easily blend transitions or blend away mistakes. As far as "going out of my way", it isn't like it was that difficult or a big change. Started with oil washes, that turned into seeing how I could add some simple highlights, eventually ended up painting everything in oil from acrylic primer or a solid basecoat. I paint for pleasure and have always enjoyed tinkering with things to see what would happen. It works for me and makes me happy, liking how it looks in the end was a nice bonus lol.
>>
>>98172176
idk bro the gray looks speckled and the white is chunky. you should work on that for the next one.
>>
>>98172212
It’s good enough for me. I need to decide on whether or not to oil wash
>>
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After I paint the rim of the base I feel like this guy will be "done", but the empty grass space in front of him kinda bothers me. I feel like I should put something there, but I don't want to just put a rock down. Does anyone have any suggestions?

>>98172176
Nice jewels

>>98169271
What's your pale flesh recipe? I think it might look good on 40k servitors
>>
Every time I try and fix something I end up accidentally touching something else, repeating of course
>>
>>98172687
Same. I'm told it gets better with practice as you gain more brush control. I hope it's true
>>
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>>98167676
I went out and bought tesseract glow for the goggles and eyes, evil sunz scarlet for trying to dry brush later and unfortunately the store was out of dark grey base so I bought this lighter grey I don't like very much now it's on the model
I'm scared to try the agrax earthshade
>>
Face number 4. I'm actually pretty happy with this one. It doesn't have the super deep shadows the previous ones did because I basically started with the main skin tone and worked up and down from there. There's definitely some improvement I can make in my process for the next one but this isn't bad. I followed Brushstroke Painting Guides on this one.
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>>98172840
>I'm scared to try the agrax earthshade
Again its paint and plastic, nothing to be scared of. After using washes its pretty common to have to do some cleanup of your midtones and highlights. Only way to improve is to paint.
>>
>>98172840
There's two ways to do a wash. All over and then clean the raised areas back up to the base color, and pin washes where you selectively place the wash manually in the recesses where you want it.
Don't be afraid. But doo be careful of letting it pool too much at once because it might dry with little white spots.
>>
>>98171126
Those synthetic brushes are made from oil, which pollutes the environment the animals live in. You're not getting away without hurting some animals, anon.
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>>98171573
The effect works, it just needs to be more contrasting and better placed.
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>>98172854
Faces don't generally have such deep shadows, unless you're 90 years old maybe.
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I think if you want to use sable (or any natural hair) brushes, you should need to hunt and kill the sable yourself. You should have to look him in the eyes when you snap his neck.
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>>98170956
I used one of those as a dry brush for years, LOVED it!
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Finally starting to work on Gaz.
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>>98172981
That unironically sounds like fun. It would also probably be a lot cheaper, too. One sable has enough hair on it to make a TON of brushes.

I would totally snap a sable's neck with my bare hands (giving it a painless, instant death) if it meant that I could get a couple hundred brushes out of it. I take really good care of mine so I'd likely be set on brushes for the rest of my life.
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>>98172993
Gaz is a goff and not a deathskull. Start again.
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>>98172981
what even is it about these critters that makes them good for paintbrushes? can you make a brush out of fox hair? I know a guy that shoots foxes to keep them from eating his chickens.
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>>98173010
Their hair is special, it just happens to have the best properties for wetting, dispensing liquid, taper, and flexibility. There are probably some other similar-enough natural hairs, but none as good as sable afaik. It's not JUST that they're natural hair.
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>>98173010
Similar to why badger hair is the best hair for shaving brushes. Most animal hair is hydrophobic, pushes water away from the body to keep the animal dry. Badger, weasel, and boar hair holds onto water.
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>>98173001
That's his long lost brother Daz.
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Starting a BFG campaign soon, and so here is my fleet roster

Need to know what to paint first on this list,
whoever gets dubs decides what i focus on to finish first.
all are in various states of painting, but it is all atleast primed.
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Working on some green boys. Always amazes me when I put on that second coat.
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>It's okay anon
>I don't mind being killed if it means you have brushes that keep a sharp tip for slightly longer than the cheaper brushes
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>>98173060
Mantis Warriors? Sons of Medusa?
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>>98172981
>build a house for the sable
>place lint rollers in front of the entrance
>collect a small amount of hairs every time the sable goes in and out of its house
>collect the rest when it dies of old age
voila, ethical sable hair brushes
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>>98173072
Good, thanks rat.
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Bases didn't come out the way I wanted and I'm gonna add some more skulls and bits later but very happy with the figs themselves.
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>>98173091
I think there's actually some kind of mystical element that goes into sable brushes. Like the suffering and part of the animal's soul is necessary for them to be as good as they are, like an enchanted item in a videogame.
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>>98173001
Goffs have a terrible scheme. Along with no theme aside from Gaz being their leader. Goffs are the ultra marines of orks. Boring.
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>>98173001
>>98173174
Now now, anons, you're both wrong. (Ghaz is a Goff but you're not required to canon paint scheme)
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>>98173072
>>I don't mind being killed if it means you have brushes that keep a sharp tip for slightly longer than the cheaper brushes
They only last 3 years anyway, weasels are a live fast die young survival strat
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>>98173174
>Goffs have a terrible scheme.
sounds like cope from someone too lazy to paint checkers
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>>98173214
NTA checkers are the least bad thing about the goffs.
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>>98173214
I have checkers on plenty of my models. They're also blue. Seeth more boring anon.
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>>98172633
it just a thin coat of celestra grey . one of them is shaded so far with watered down mechanicus greay + blue. Covering up guilliman flesh that was drybrushed moreghast bone then white over black primer. Not sure how much of the previous layers showing through though.
I'm going to do more shading, highlighting and scars all over next.
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Some more little tykes
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>>98173418
Their daddies need some more layers
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>have 1, MAYBE 2 sessions on project left
>starting to assemble new project
>want to start painting it more than I want to finish the current project
Ree.
Anyway, have a nice night.
>>
>>98173174
Somone has to be the basic bitch for the rest to have something to contrast off of
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>>98173080
Nah just my dudes. Knights of Camelot. You can tell from their name what their all about.
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>>98173117
I too am very happy with your figs anon
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>>98173440
Same thing happened to me, except when I was almost done with the second project I started wanting to work on project three...
>>
Why do (you) choose to post minis here?
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>>98172981
I want to get a new brush, not a throbbing erection
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>>98173598
Momentum.
Starting posting here when I was less good, now I'm afraid I'll be made fun of by the few anons I respect if I started posting my models to my actual accounts.
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>>98173598
I don't have any friends.
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>>98173696
you don't need friends to post on reddit, why do you choose to post here?
>>
>>98173696
We're your friends, anon :D
>>
>>98173598
I like to get advice and feedback on how I can improve.



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