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File: big_WIP_collage_08JUN2026.jpg (7.45 MB, 7000x5874)
7.45 MB JPG
Work in Progress, Just Another Manic Monday Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98162825
>>98147417
>>98131913
>>
>>98176307
I still use washes for shit like textured surfaces because it's a good way to get quick and effective shadows. For something like cloth, skin and flat surfaces I pretty much always do layering instead though, it gives you a lot more control over the end result and lets you push the contrast much further.
>>
>>98176333
I just mix washes with Speedpaint medium these days. Aka marine juice, but not following that specific recepie, because it works washes of all colors.
It makes then flow quicker, better and stain less
>>
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>baker san on his way to make a collage and make a new thread after living through the last thread
>>
>>98176333 (checked)
>>98176367
Marine Juice is well-behaved enough to avoid all the pitfalls of normal washes and I've used it on plenty of minis to totally satisfactory results.
HOWEVER the new hotness for me is doing and "oil" wash with Golden Open acrylics. They don't actually beat oil paints at their own game, but they are still very good for oil techniques and the drying time can be measured in hours instead of days.
>>
where did this new thing calling washed models dirty instead of shaded come from
pretty sure i havent heard that before with so much gusto and from this many places at once
>>
>>98176424
Stained is probably a better word. Washes should be thinned a little or given medium, when people just slap them on it gives that "lazy Death Guard" look.
>>
>>98176424
If your let your wash or contrast paint pool on open surfaces (as they tend to do), it will stain it and not look so great. Of course you can avoid this if you work one section at a time, brush towards a crevice/shadow, and remove excess liquid, etc., but a lot of people just throw it on without much care.

Also, even if you are careful, you will probably get some coffee staining on a large flat panel. Not a lot you can do about that.
>>
>>98176424
there's been a bit of a shift away from grimdark to more saturated colors lately. it's a nice change after crapchop
>>
>>98176479
Nice schizobabble but slapchop can also have saturated colors, as a matter of fact some of the brightest colors are contrast paints.
>>
>>98176479
Honestly slapchop (underpainting in general) is better for saturated colors than for grimdark. The difference between a light vs. dark undercoat will be much more noticeable with a bright, saturated color than with a dark, muted color.

But I'm not a grimdark painter, so idk .
>>
>>98176415
>Golden Open acrylics

What is this brand?
>>
>>98176532
Golden is the brand.
>>
>>98176424
>>98176477
It comes from the fact that people got lazy. Originally you would apply a basecoat, then a wash like agrax, and then re-apply the basecoat over those stained areas, to get the base color back. And only then would highlights follow. But people got lazy, and just stopped after the wash, and called it "grimdark" (while being lazy again, and not using the actual enamel streaking grime stuff). Its just an annoying habit, but it also rarely looks good.
>>
>>98176479
Grimdark and Slapchop literally have nothing to do with each other.
One is using oil and enamel washes on top of a regularly painted miniature, the other is appying speedpaint over a zenithal primed and drybrushed white miniature.
Both result in completely different styles and looks.
>>
Are the army painter John Blanche sets worth buying?
>>
>>98176653
>sets
nah
>>
>>98176653
If you like the paints that are included.. but i think you can get the pots individually now too. Probably worth to check that option and pick the couple colors you really like.
>>
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I'm quite satisfied with these eyes, despite how crusty they come out in pictures; I should probably move on to cleaning up and glazing the skin and mustachio
However, a wise anon once told me that there's no point in painting if you're not gonna challenge yourself, so I will now try to make them rounder and add a catchlight as well.
Surely I won't completely fuck up the whole thing and go back to contemplating suicide!
>>
>>98176653
>army painter
no
>>
Going to spend a couple more hours on this, need to adjust the OSL a bit, and do a bit more on the boots 'cause they're a bit boring right now.
But I'm starting a new thing soon that I'm committing to not being a slop paintjob that I'm going to put real effort into.
>>
>>98176653
John Blanche had interesting pen work, but his colors were boring.
>>
>>98176682
Good work. What mini is this?
>>
>>98176653
If you want a stable of muted colors, it's as good as any. The colors are awkward because, to me, the point of having so many pre-mixed colors that aren't part of the "totally not Citadel clones" is unnecessary since you can mix, quite consistently too if you use dropper bottles. Just add a little of the complementary color to get any muted color you want.
The OG zorn palette only uses 4 colors and mixing, if you actually are inspired by Blanche I would try that first.
>>
>>98176675
>nearly every well known painter says the 2.0 army painter line is great and some of the best bang for buck on the market
>4chan calls them shit
classic
>>
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>>98176689
I'm not even a blanche fanboy but come on
>>
>>98176653
They're expensive per bottle and about half of the paints are so similar to their normal fanatics line that it's just not worth it. There's a teal wash that's interesting, and it fills in some glaring gaps in the darker colours in the fanatics line, but nothing you can't pick up much cheaper elsewhere.
>>
>>98176669
Why is his head so small relative to his body?
>>
>>98176705
I haven't called them shit, anon. But there's virtually no rational reason whatsoever to buy AP when there's AK and Vallejo, that often costs less than AP while being better paints overall. Both Vallejo and AK outperform AP, and they also don't come with a host of flaws.

AP is fantastic with their marketing, that's what they are great at.
>>
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>>98176669
>>98176721
>>
>>98176721
People in 16th century Germany were built different, these kinda dudes served as inspiration for the Venus of Willendorf
>>
>>98176734
1500's Germans did not look like the african neck ring people.
>>
>>98176721
he's a burger (prehistoric Ameriggan :DDD)
>>
>>98176756
Not
>Berger
You had one job.
>>
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>>98176746
How do you know, were you there smart guy?
You're just jealous of his luscious pear-shaped figure
>>
>>98176729
>and vallejo
AHAHAHAAA
>>
>>98176772
It's your money, I don't give a fuck.
>>
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>already have a bunch of unpainted minis
>just bought 4 more
>>
>>98176782
Enjoy wasting your money on inconsistent bubbly dogshit lmfao
>>
>>98176771
Because if it were so I'd have inherited this figure.
>>
>>98176729
>vallejo
lmao
>>
>>98176707
What? All he does is 50% sepia, 25% yellow, and 25% red.
>>
>so mad he has to respond not only twice, but three times
I hope AP is at least paying you for this
>>
>>98176716
>There's a teal wash that's interesting

And you can buy it indvidually too. It costs like 30 cents more than their regular Fantatic Warpaints, and that is probably the price of the "blance" signature on the bottle.

Generally speaking, i dont see a problem to pick up some AP pots here and there, if the paint is exactly what you think is needed. Its not like those 4,20€ instead of 3,90€ for a slightly different pot will make me eat dry bread for an evening.
>>
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>>98176788
Es tut mir leid, brudi... but I'm sure you can find some femboy workout programs online if you wanna get an ass that's three times your head
>>
Can I use white ink to edge highlight or will it just run everywhere?
>>
>>98176805
>so mad he's indirectly seething and turning schizo
what causes vallejo shills to behave like this
>>
Everyone on this shithole is such a contrarian asshole I'm surprised it hasn't wrapped back around to saying if you use anything but official Citadel paint you're poor and ngmi
>>
>>98176812
Out of the bottle it'll run, but you can just tap your brush on a piece of paper to lose some moisture.
>>
Vallejo paints work on my machine
I like pro acryl a lot too though. If nothing else you should get pro acryl mahogany, great color.
>>
>>98176812
Whether it runs depends on how much liquid is on the brush, not whether it's ink or not.
Also, honestly white ink is a meme. People are sold on the hypothetical that inks are dye based. Which is true of many inks, but not white ink. White ink is just thin white paint with the exact same pigment as all the other titanium white paints.
>>
>>98176837
I think PA's brown lineup is pretty weak overall, but yeah mahogany is definitely one of my go-to colors.
>>
>>98176815
Imo, the general consensus itt is that AK are the least flawed paints, while AP is meh at best, with their excellent acrylic washes being an exception. Which is, I think, pretty accurate.
Then again, going by the brand is retarded, buy what works. I personally prefer AK paints, but I think their metallics suck compared to Vallejo's. Citadel is mostly fine, but also ridiculously overpriced for what they are.

>>98176837
Vallejo is fine.
>>
>>98176872
>while AP is meh at best, with their excellent acrylic washes being an exception. Which is, I think, pretty accurate.

That was accurate like 5 years ago. Their washes are only "okay", because these days, all the other companies have improved their washes. And their Fantatics paints are okay also, because here, AP improved their paints massively, from real garbage (remember the old ones where you had to squeeze out the medium first?) to actually usable without any issues.
>>
>>98176837
>>98176872
Yeah just ignore the entire internet complaining about how the new formulation bubbles up and unlike literally every other paint brand including their old lineup they couldn't figure out how to keep the medium from bubbling and not popping before it cures
>>
>>98176921
>ignore the evidence of your eyes and ears
>internet people know better
mmmmm I don't think so
>>
>>98176944
>anecdotal evidence reliable? One local man says yes
>>
>>98176424
>>98176556
I think the technique of flooding a mini with enamels etc is not 'grimdark' per se but rather a way to achieve a grimdark aesthetic.
I lament the fact that nowadays having a dirtied up and rusted looking mini is immediately synonymous of 'grimdark technique' which to me is reductive

Personally I consider grimdark a mean to have a mini more immersed in its world and more "realistically" so with all the nuances that derive from that.
I enjoy vibrancy a lot and I always try to put some vivid colours (which are part of realism, especially in a context heavily based on medieval imagery like the one of 40k and specifically factions like Black Templars) on my own minis but I still consider them to be grimdark, at least in my vision.
>>
File: 20260608_130824.jpg (4.55 MB, 3024x3024)
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Hope it's obvious what I'm trying to do here. Not mini related but I'm trying to fix some figures, and thought maybe pinning would do the trick

But how do you handle such a fine and delicate joint without ruining it? I have lots of pins to start from size and work each one up, but what should I use besides a standard paperclip which looks too big? Anything besides standard superglue better? Any other tips or approaches to handling this, anon?
>>
>>98176910
>actually usable without any issues
Disagree.
>hands down the worst paints on the market to airbrush
>completely shit the bed when they even look at white spirit or enamels for some reason
>most of the range is a desaturated mess with no real dark vivid colors (slightly remedied by Blanche sets)

>>98176950
I use Vallejo paints fairly often and I have yet to encounter the problem.
>>
>>98176962
>hands down the worst paints on the market to airbrush
that's scale75 and avante art
>completely shit the bed when they even look at white spirit or enamels for some reason
deboonked
>>
>>98176976
>deboonked
No, it was not.
>scale75 and avante art
who?
>>
>>98176953
Rikku, my beloved!
Also I don't know what you're trying to do other than generally reinforcing the joint somehow? Do you still want to be able to move afterwards?
Just channel your inner toy repairman from Toy Story 2 and wear magnifying glasses and be careful.
>>
>>98176987
>who?
ah, you're a retard who's never touched any paints whatsoever
no need to continue the discussion, feel free to seethe at me after this, I'll be ignoring your worthless contributions
>>
>he doesn’t grind his own pigments for his own paint
Ngmi
>>
>>98176997
Why are you so mad? Is it because I pointed out multiple, persisting problems with AP?
>>
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Feel like I struggle so much with my final brightest layer. Watch other people doing it and even though it's clearly pretty chunky with hard transitions it just looks right and then I do it and it's the ugliest thing I've ever seen
>>
>>98176962
As i said: perfectly usable.
>>
>>98176992
I always hated that that guy painted over 'ANDY' on his foot rather than cleaning it off first. Even if he had to paint the foot again, cleaning it off would have been better practice.
>>
>>98177001
The average painter does never encounter those "problems".
>>
>>98177029
Don't reply to zero effort bait
>>
>70 posts
>only 3 actual wips posted
what a sad state of affairs
>>
>>98177037
>doesn't contribute
>>
>>98177042
I haven't made enough progress on mine to warrant posting another image, unfortunately
>>
>>98176410
I'm relieving my stress by feeding Chocolate Frag Launchers to my cat.
>>
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>>98176976
>deboonked
At this point, even Reddit conceded to the fact that AP paints react badly to it.
>>
>>98176992
Well the joint seems to cleanly broken off there. I thought I could pin it and if I very carefully do it, the join could move and not easily pop off like it currently does at a slight touch.

Since it's so tint, I wanted to see if some anon had advice before I potentially hamfist it. Or knows something finer than paperclip to use.
>>
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>>98177037
you can have my escort ship again
>>
>>98177011
Because they tend to be white, or have a lot of white in the mix, they're very opaque compared to most other colors (if they're saturated at all at least). If you do it, try thinning with medium rather than water, like a drop of some medium (Really doesn't matter what kind), and just a tiny brush tip of your highlight color, and then thin with water as necessary to get the right viscosity.
You can set the highlight point sometimes with a full opacity dot if you just want to keep a reference for what you're trying to blend to.
The other option is to set the highlight and blend down into the midtone, since it will glaze/layer a lot more gradually than the highlight will, but this is kind of counter intuitive and I don't like doing it.
>>
>>98177052
>posting the faked image where the gentle cleanup erroneously removed more than the rough cleanup
(you) tried
>>
>>98177068
NTA but you being the defensive AP fanboy from /40kg/ explains quite a bit lmao
>>
>>98177070
Stay in your containment general instead of shitting up our thread, schizo
>>
>>98176837
Vallejo is bottom of the barrel for major name brand hobby paints now, but that barrel is much higher quality than even 5 years ago. Vallejo got slightly worse over time due to cost-cutting, while everyone else improved with new lines and formulas (except Scale 75 who had a White Album phase and fell off).

Vinnie V's pro acryl payne's grey is way bluer than I expected, so I'm holding a grudge there.
>>
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>>98177057
When my kids were little, I thought the lids to their sippy cups looked like Tyranid Razorfield Cruisers.
>>
>>98177070
What?
>>
>>98177070
Hey that's cool and all but stay in /40kg/ thanks
>>
>>98176872
I love AP for brush blending because of their relative thickness and opacity, but the washes have become increasingly glossy so I like AK's more now (the flow isn't quite as nice but the finish isn't dogshit so it's a fair price to pay).
>>
>>98177068
I actually made that image. And no, gentle cleanup removed more than the rough one, because there was more white spirit on the q-tip when I started. It proves the point.
I can re-create that image anytime, with even more paints. I personally tested a fair bit of AP paints, and a whole lot of them react similarly.
Then again, you don't have to believe me since there are basically dozens of examples of the very same thing happening on plebbit.
>>
>>98177084
scale75 is still fine
their """equivalent""" they sell in NA called avante art is a fucking abomination that should be illegal to sell
>>
>>98176694
It's Ivy from Twin Goddess.
>>
>>98176837
>If nothing else you should get pro acryl mahogany, great color.
Its truly lovely. Their dark grey blue, dark purple, and the burnt red and orange are also great. The majority of the metallics are pretty good, not VMC level but perfectly fine.
>>
I love how subhuman retards don't varnish their models like you're supposed to before enamels/oils yet act surprised when abrasives remove their paint
>B-buh this paint doesn't need it
It does, you're selective
It's the best practice and has been in scale model acrylic painting for decades for a reason
>>
>>98177087
hah stack 2 of those and you get a pretty on the nose rogue trade screamer killer
>>
>>98177105
Scale 75 haven't released anything good since metal and alchemy, but those are still as good as it gets.
>>
>>98177127
>It does, you're selective
No, it does not. It IS a good practice, yes, but it is not mandatory. Well, apart from AP, which react badly with it for some unexplained reason. Literally no other hobby brand on the market react with it the same way.
>>
>>98177149
PA does
AKI does
(you) are a retard
>>
>>98177127
>y-you only need to add an additional step and it's all good! :)
You're the subhuman retard here, there's a difference between varnish being recommended to prevent some accidental scratching and it being basically necessary or white spirit will completely fuck up your paintjob during cleanup. I really hope you're an actual paid AP shill because I don't want to believe I share a general with such a fucking idiot.
>>
>>98177168
subhuman meltdown detected
>>
>>98177173
>y-you mad
fuck off back to /40kg/
>>
>>98177179
Ironic considering you're apparently the one from there >>98177070
>>
>>98177183
>everyone I don't like is the same person
again, go back
>>
>>98177127
It's hilarious how you think that acrylic varnish is some magical substance completely different from acrylic paints and somewhat impervious to white spirits and scrubbing unlike the latter.
>>
>>98177165
I've tested both, and they do not. PA starts to melt ONLY when you go really hard, but at that point it becomes a mechanical issue, rather than chemical one. Can't blame the paint for that. Never had any problem with AK paints reacting badly to white spirit, and I mostly use AK.
Anon, what are you trying to prove here? This is not something I just made up, it's a problem that hundreds of people reported having, and ONLY with AP.
>>
>hundreds of people
two reddit threads
>>
>>98177127
Except I used oil washes on models painted with TTC, Vallejo and AK and had no such issues. Only cases where I did were with airbrushed layers on 3D prints made out of resin and I suspect that either resin was to blame here (and lack of grip) or layer was very thin to begin with.
>>
>>98177202
>indirect seething
kek, just take the L at this point bro, nobody will know who you are once you stop replying
>>
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>>98177202
Ah, so you decided to simply lie.
The other anon is right, I sure as hell hope you are being paid for this.
>>
>>98177219
>>98177222
stay on /40kg/
>>
>>98177226
concession accepted
>>
>>98176953
I’ve had to do these with many of my kids toys, get some small Brad nails and do not use super glue as it is too brittle. Use the tip of the Brad nail to create a starter hole in each end of the pvc, clip the brad nail to length and then insert with some tacky glue
>>
Never change /tg/, never change....
>>
>>98177195
Same experience. The base coat is pro acryl ivory over the dark neutral grey primer. I don't varnish in between the base coat and starting with the oils. Only time I have a problem is when I wipe too hard with the makeup sponge, haven't had issues with odorless mineral spirits eating through the PA acrylic paint or primer.
>>
I sure do love the anti AP shill and the AP shill who've both never painted anything in their lives shitting up our thread once a week
>>
>>98177061
Thanks for the advice, the dot thing feels especially useful. I also have some AP stabilizer I always forget to use. I just feel like I get these really good blended transitions and then go for a final highlight and without fail it ends up as chunky blocks of color. Then I end up in a loop as I try to blend and glaze it down only to lose the vibrancy of the highlight so I reapply and then it’s chunky again so I have to blend it down again
>>
How can I keep pigments from rubbing off my models without changing the dusty look into a muddy sludge
>>
>>98177248
What's the rationale for an ivory over dark grey vs. just white over black?
>>
>argument could easily be solved by vallejo anon posting one his models and ap anon posting one of his
>neither one of the cowards will do it and just keep arguing the other brand is shit
>>
>>98177222
and only 2 of them mention AP.
>>
>>98177248
PA is solid. Like I said, I tested AP, AK, VMC, VGC, PA, Tamiya (XF), GW, and even some craft acrylics for shits and giggles, and only AP reacts badly to white spirit/oils/enamels. Some people believe that AP paints actually take a long, long time to fully cure for some reason, much longer than regular acrylics, but I personally don't think that's true. But I might be mistaken about that one.
>>
>>98177295
Its a more subtle transition.
>>
>>98177316
False.
>>
>>98177332
post models >>98177306
>>
>>98177306
I'm not either of them but how would that solve anything? AP anon probably doesn't use enamels/oils or always varnishes before using them and Vallejo anon uses them enough to work around the issues. Showing models would only move the argument to them insulting each others work instead.
>>
>>98177359
Because one anon said AP paints are the worst and the other said Vallejo is the worst. Let’s see what they produce
>>
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Work continues on the barding. Making some concepts for the peytrals. Quite happy with these, as they only require three cuts and can accommodate different poses on the horses. Took me a while to figure out that a plate peytral actually leaves a lot of space for the horses legs and doesn't hug the torso the way a cloth or lamellar caparison would do.
>>
>>98177295
Most of the paints that I use are transparent or semi-transparent, so they really benefit from an even light zenithal basecoat to help them maintain their color. Did quite a few test models, black primer gives a much starker shadow but I lost a lot of the shadow color to desaturation, grey desaturated the shadows but still maintained some hints of the color. Pic related is the nob, with the neutral grey primer you can still see quite a bit of the burnt umber in the shadows, with black primer that brown would be much darker and less visually interesting.

The ivory is an easy answer, it stains a lot more evenly than PA white does. The better staining gives me a more consistent base to start with instead of having to put down layers to even it out. One thing I've learned about painting with oils on miniatures is that you don't want to get too many layers of paint going, the more layers there are the easier it is to accidently blend them together and leave you with a grey brown mud instead of the colors I was trying to get.
>>
What a great start of a new thread
>>
>>98176950
You're trying to convince me that my own experience is wrong. I don't give a shit if you don't find my personal experience convincing because I'm not trying to convince you.
>>
>>98177437
nut up or shut up >>98177357
>>
>>98177437
I'm pretty sure the dude is here to just shitpost.
>>
If you’re arguing paints you’re ngmi. Vincey V uses all the paints people have said are bad so far
>>
>>98176953
i would not pin it but replace the whole axis, it seems to be enough meat in that elbow to glue a new rod in there

>fine and delicate
that's 4 times the size of a space marine, you can use the paperclip just fine if you don't want to replace the whole thing, but first take the broken part off the forearm
>>
>>98177414
there always has to be sperging about something, you can't have a sane thread in a hobby that attracts autists
>>
>>98177474
I've only ever used citadel paints and really don't see the problem. Yes pots suck but the paint itself is fine. In fact, I would argue citadel has much better colors than the rest of the brands and they're generally thicker which makes them easier to work with for basing.
>>
>>98177523
>the paint itself is fine
Yes, but it's also overpriced to a vulgar degree.
>citadel has much better colors
No.
>>
>>98177534
>citadel paints
>$4.55
>AK inteactive
>$4.69

huh?
>>
>>98177540
you get 33% less paint in the citadel pot
>>
>>98176653
Grimdark Shadow is the best wash ever made
>>
>>98177540
>$4.69
Where the fuck do you live and why is AK so expensive there? It's like $3/bottle in their main store.
Also, AK dropper is 17ml, Citadel is 12ml.
>>
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>>98177251
>>
I noticed that there's literally one guy posting in these threads with massive hate boner for AP for some reason
>>
I don't particularly like or dislike army painter
>>
>>98177571
>everyone who does X is one person
>>
There he is!
>>
Ever since I got tinnitus I just haven't been able to paint anymore, activities that used to be quiet and relaxing are now unbearable because all I can focus on is the noise
Any tips on how to deal with it?
>>
>>98177597
Play music, audiobooks, or just use a louder fan to generate background noise.
t. eeeeeeee gang
>>
>>98176962
>hands down the worst paints on the market to airbrush
That's AK and it's not even close. You need a degree in chemistry to make that shit go through.
>>
>>98177597
Background noise. I put on music, a stream, or even just run a fan for some white noise. It helps a lot
>>
>>98177610
Meh bait at best.
>>
>>98177610
Is this bait? I've had 0 issues airbrushing any AK paint so far
>>
>>98177619
Of course it's bait. The retard have been trying to revive the flame war for like four posts now.
>>
>>98177606
>>98177617
Unfortunately hasn't worked for me, I need a combination of lots of overlapping background noise from multiple sources and a high stress activity to occupy my attention in order to not notice it
It doesn't bother me at work as a result but I haven't been able to get back to my hobbies at all and my sleep quality has dropped off a cliff
>>
>>98177597
cup palms over ears and drum the base of your skull with all 8 fingers in a descending pattern
>>
Where's the craftsperg? At least that one actually paints.
>>
>>98177666
Not very subtle there, craftsperg.
>>
>>98177702
This, lmao.
>>
>>98176953
I would very carefully drill out the flesh colored peg in the middle being careful not to break through to the outside and then put it back together with a piece of brass dowel and some epoxy.
>>
>>98177702
even if you're right, the post is still true which just makes your paint argument that much more pathetic
>>
>>98177775
refer to >>98177702
>>
>>98177666
>666
The lesser of two evils?
>>
>>98177792
that just infinitely loops back to you being pathetic
>>
>>98177827
I know this might be hard to swallow but more than one person here thinks you're an obnoxious paintlet faggot
>>
>>98177906
i know this might be hard to swallow but youre not talking to the anon that you think you are
>>
For fuck sake, 120 replies and only 19 images, what the fuck are you doing? This is "work in progress" thread, not "shitposting and namecalling" thread.
>>
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>>98177932
posting stuff I finished months ago just to keep it on-topic
>>
>>98177932
>post work
>get shitposted and namecalled anyways
not worth the downside tee bee hache
>>
>>98177932
Given that this thread went to half it's reply limit in a few hours there is no point posting actual WIP's in it, seems like the faggots who stormed it overnight are just determined to keep shitting in it, so better to wait until they fuck off, hopefully by the time a new thread is needed, which at this rate should be just a couple more hours.
>>
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>>98177951
nah, who cares what dipshits think, I've seen the work of at least one of them (if it was even their work they posted) and it's nothing so special that I need to go "OH GOD HE'S RIGHT BOOHOOHOO" when they shit on my own.
>>
>>98177969
Less drybrushing, more targeted highlighting.
>>
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>>98177985
To be fair, this is one of my earliest projects and it shows, I didn't have green stuff to plug that tail-seam and it makes me cringe, looking at it.

The reason I dry brush and don't edge highlight is I have shaky ass ADHD hands.
>>
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>>98177932
I can repost some of mine if it helps
>>
>>98177998
>>
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>>98177383

Update on the peytrals. Tomorrow I'll start working on the chamfrons. Idea is to use a large teardrop-shaped punch to cover the top of the head. Then two crescent shapes to make the side plates.
>>
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>>98177998
>>98178031

Personally I make extensive use of drybrush for units because it's a quick and easy way to make them look "good enough". It also hides away a lot of small mistakes and brush slips that would take ages to cover otherwise. Pic related is an example.
>>
Cute little goober
>>
>>98178121
looking good, anon. keep it up.
>>98178016
I can't help but think: wouldn't a skeleton army be scared shitless of bearded vultures? their diet consists of mostly bone.
>>
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Started texturing the Glaive's hull today. It's looking promixing, I think!
>>
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>>98177932
Let me repost some of my shit then.

>>98178171
Already looking great. Planning to do more than the texturing? Welds, etc.?
>>
>>98178144
Honestly the thing that bothers me the most is how the fuck is that musician dude supposed to blow the horn when he has no lungs
>>
>>98178224
It's a fine tradition of DOOTING
>>
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>>98178224
>>98178226
skeletons doot, it is a known fact
>>
>>98178216
Thanks! I wanted to do welds but I don't have any suitable scribing tools. I might add some decorations here and there if I find something suitable in my bits box.
>>
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>>98178293
>suitable scribing tools
make them, beer can and a toothpick
>https://youtu.be/TW65lwwfJqk?si=Xzv895kNMOR9Z4Jc&t=736
>>
>>98178305
Oh, I meant the tool he used to go over the joints where the plates meet to get rid of the welds that were already on the model. I used the same video as a reference btw.
>>
Man, I'm building Thanatar, and holy shit what kind of braindead retard made these sprues. 98% of connection points are EXACTLY in the worst possible spots. It's like the designer actually tried making it as horrible as possible.
>>
do acrylic paints have any advantages besides being non-toxic?
>>
>>98178502
They dry quick (also could be counted as disadvantage).
>>
>>98178356
One day GW will discover the concept of undergating.
>>
>>98178517
>>98178502
Actually they dry relativiely slow - much slower than solvent based ones (lacquers and those Tamiya "acrylics") but faster than oils/enamels, which makes them both comfortable with brush use and miniatures.
>>
>>98178502
the whole "being non-toxic" thing is a pretty big pro.
>I only use real cinnabar-based vermillion for my paints!
>*goes mad and dies*
>>
>>98178502
Once dry you can paint over them without reactivating the previous layer and making a complete mess
>>
>>98178502
Not all acrylics are non-toxic. The hobby ones usually are, but actually good acrylics (like Golden SoFlat) use shit like cadmium, etc.
>>
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First mini in a few months, I started off with a really specific idea and completely failed to get anywhere near it. Kinda liking him anyway though, the yellows look like when I was a kid and couldn't paint yellow without it turning into greeny muddy dogshit but I don't mind it
>>
>>98178689
isn't this the case for any paint except for oils?
>>
Done some more Ii Clan samurai lads.
>>
>>98178900
No. Most other paints reactivate because the solvents are much stronger. Oils reactivate because they just haven't cured yet because it hasn't been 400 years. but it's very difficult to brush paint with enamels/alcohols/lacquers. Though those are better for airbrushing.
>>
>>98178916
if that was true it would be impossible to do patterns on gundams using masking which obviously isn't the case
>>
>>98178948
People airbrush gundams. You can airbrush without disturbing the lower layers, it's brushwork that causes the issue.
>>
>>98178977
what is the difference? I've seen people use a toothpick to paint details using enamel paint over already painted parts.
>>
/wipg/ what's the absolute worst kit you've ever assembled?
>>
>>98178995
Devilfish.
>>
>>98178995
Plastic: Land speeder typhoon, Scout bike squad, Eldar corsairs
Resin: thallax
Based on how the kit actually assembled to how it looked at the end of
>>
>>98178995
Every 3rd edition metal kit I've ever built.
Old metal ghaz, old metal ork dreadnoughts.
>>
>>98178908
Where's the halberd guy from?
>>
>>98179042
Naginata I mean, obviously, I don't know why I wrote halberd. The one that isn't fireforge
>>
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>>98176367
I do something similar for my flesh wash. It's a pot of reikland fleshshade, TTC flesh wash and lahmian medium all mixed together in a 60ml dropper. It goes where you want it to, isn't too thick and doesn't stain.
>>
>>98177932
Some progress
>>
>>98179061
What happens when you bring girls over and they ask you why you have a collection of small nazis?
>>
>>98179074
>his girls don't expect a respectable collection of small nazis
lmao
>>
>>98179017
>Plastic: Land speeder typhoon
Welll, crap! ... and here I was thinking this old beast would be great as a "counts as" in 11th Edition since it has missiles.
>>
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>>98179074
My wife loves them.
>>
>>98177932
I was going to post my WIP before I get to painting tonight, but then my cat got in my lap and the only thing interesting I could reach was the drawer that had the Typhoon (>>98179113) in it.
>>
>>98179113
it's not all plastic though, the missile launchers are metal
>>
>>98179074
Simp and dare I say cuck and dare u say male feminist and dare I say tranny
>>
>>98179042
He's one of the old citadel sculpte from 1984. Wargames foundry sell them now
>>
213 posts
<8 current wips.
Sad
>>
>>98179200
go back to cockwatching /40kg/ instead, zerocontributionfag
>>
>>98178995
A 1970s plastic ship model without locator pegs, and a stock GW Emperor-class battleship from late in the mold's life. I had to completely rebuild every goddamned joint in that fucker and re-pin/peg it straight, then sculpt around the gaps. Keep in mind this is coming from a man with a heavily-converted all-metal Sisters army who used to do conversions and metal builds on commission.

>>98179113
The 'speeder is GW's first complex vehicle kit. The older ones have a few large parts that form subassemblies, those all clipped together relatively simply and then you detailed them up. The new 'speeder had some really complicated cuts to hide the join lines. To make matters worse, GW were pulling them out of the mold before they cooled properly, which causes warping. Plastic injection molds take a lot longer to wear out than metal, but they had already run off one model for every single starter box and the basic Marine army box so it was starting to get a little worn. Then the Typhoon bits are a 4-part metal cast on each side with large flat areas on very large chunks of pewter. You can see the "dishing" on the sides of the missile launcher from the piece warping as it cools even in the box art, and that was before they beat the shit out of the pewter molds. So you had to wedge slightly warped metal bits into a gap on the plastic model, pull it apart, file it down until the two halves of the speeder closed properly, pin them in because they kept trying to fall over, and then get it locked in on the flight base with three ounces of metal hanging a couple inches outside the center of gravity. On a flimsy plastic model supported by a 2mm acrylic pin
>>
>>98179205
Sad
>>
>>98179200
>most of the thread is reasonable and polite discussion about the hobby
>WHERES UR WIPEPEPESSSSSSSS????????? SHOW ME UR SPEEDPAINTED ZENITHALED SHIT NOW!!!!!!! SHOW ME UR AI OVERPAINTED SLOP NOW!!!!!! WE HAVE TO COMPETE WITH /R/MINIPAINTING AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH IM GOING INSANE!!!!! IM GOING INSANE!! WEE NEED ANOTHER FUCKING FLAMEWAR LIKE /40KG/!!!!!

I think you should leave.
>>
>>98179116
But does her boyfriend love them as well?
>>
>>98179259
You mean my boy? Yeah, he definitely does. He loves playing with the Opel Blitz
>>
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>>98179127
>my WIP
One of these nights I will actually finish him, but this photo tells me I have a lot of cleanup to do on that tabard.

>>98179222
Maybe I'll get that Typhoon done someday, but I'll probably try to do the actual Primaris Land Speeder from the 11th Edition box first. We'll have to see. I really want a Bladeguard squad and I feel like I'm most of the way there.
>>
>>98179437
I am not at all surprised that a primaritard would paint the spots where you're supposed to glue things on.
>>
>>98179479
Why the needless antagonism?
>>
>>98179437
looks pretty good. Maybe a little unnecessarily sub-assembled, but whatever.
>>
>>98179575
>needless
You now have to use superglue and the bits will break off with ease due to a weaker than normal hold for superglue, the bits will basically be attached by acrylic paint.
>>
Did somebody say...
NEEDLESS?!?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocLmKWaK5HE
>>
>>98179617
Or they gently scrape the paint off the connection points when they go to assemble?
>>
>>98179479
stay in /40kg/, paintlet
>>
>>98179636
It's a waste of time. Handle your minis carefully. They'll stick together just fine with paint-to-paint glue.
>>
>>98179113
>white highlights on blue
Interdasting. It somehow looks less toymaxxed than modern poster boys.
>>
>>98177666
I fear that handsome (and witty) devil has left us for good. He probably realized none of us are anywhere near his skill level and thus, we have proven unworthy of his masterpieces.
>>
>>98179745
>Handle your minis carefully
Minis never fall on the floor, and the cat never gets the idea that they are toys, these and other accidents never happen, and when your mini does hit the floor and become bits, that arm will never vanish underneath the stove or into a floor vent to never be seen again.
>>
>>98179754
>Minis never fall on the floor, and the cat never gets the idea that they are toys, these and other accidents never happen
Correct. I'm glad you're responsible with your minis as well.
>>
>>98179745
Not mine, I dont paint in sub assembly.
>>
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Forgot to take early pictures with the Ranger, here's the first thin coat on the Gunslinger.
>>
Anybody have recommendations for a metallic that's darker than VMC air gunmetal but brighter than pro acryl dark silver? I've looked through the citadel and armypainter and TTC options but none of them seem to land between those two paints
>>
I love this hobby tbdesu. The way to git gud is never what you think it is. Spent decades slaving away at perfect smooth 'eavy metal paint jobs that looked like shit on the table and pulling my hair out. Now I take every cheap shortcut possible and just focus on contrast and my shit's pretty gud
>>
>>98179247
>most of the thread is reasonable and polite discussion about the hobby
ha ha! Nice one anon , now kill yourself
>>
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modifying a thunderhawk for my Inquisition forces.
>>
at what point do you guys just admit you're too drunk to paint and just give up?
>tfw just ruined like 6 hours of work failimg at depth perception and covering everything in Leadbelcher when I coughed
>>
>>98180080
why would you paint when you're drunk? that sounds awful
>>
>>98180080
i only get blackout drunk in company and that rarely includes painting
>>98180086
i paint maybe 10% of the time sober
>>
>>98180221
Have you tried not being an alcoholic?
>>
>>98180080
Ah, alcoholic anon is still around.
>>
>>98180086
>not an earthrocker
ngmi
>>
>>98180080
>this guy has depth perception normally
it's a crutch and a meme
>>
>>98180280
When a Cyclops speaks... I listen.
>>
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>>98180283
damn right you do
>>
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Got me a bunch of old greenskins for dirt cheap, these should be fun to paint
>>
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>batch painting ultramarines while listening to Know No Fear
>>
>>98180437
Nice beakies
>>
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I'm through with the vanguard vets
>>
>>98177011
Is seething vince still good? thought he killed himself after that last GD attempt
>>
>>98177281
You can't
Any fixer will change how it looks
>>
>>98180488
>still
if you valued him before why would your disagreement in one particular unrelated thing change that?
>>
>>98180488
His stuff may not be top tier but he still mogs like 90% of painters so I'll take his advice any time.
>>
Sometimes when I want a lighter model I go through a long priming/zenithal process where I go all the way from a flat black base (for recessed shadow purposes) A medium grey from all around every angle above the horizon, and then white from just the brightest light directions or straight down.
It makes for a super smooth base coat, but man if it doesn't look like unpainted plastic despite taking like an hour to do.
>>
>>98180518
>despite taking like an hour to do.
I feel like this shouldn't take that long
>set up airbrush: 5 minutes
>spray coat: 2 minutes x3
>clean airbrush: 1 minute x3
This shouldn't take more than a quarter of an hour.
>>
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Alright now that its summer and I dont have to teach kids no mo I can continue painting. I painted this wraithguard and I think I like it quite a bit, taking the picture I notice it could go for a bit of touch ups but any advice on how to improve it a bit? I think it looks decent but could be better. I did edge highlight a bit but either I did it wrong or the effect is so subtle I can barely tell. I didnt use a wash but I think ill try one on the next dude. Also what in the good god are the catpchs becoming on 4chan. God damn.
>>
>>98180522
It's more like 3 coats of black, and gradually building up several thin coats of the grey and white. If you just blast it in 1 coat you'll get speckling.
>>
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>>98180547
>>
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>>98180553
I mean its all upright when I uploaded it... Watch it upload sideways again for some reason.
>>
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I can do something on this kneepad. Should I? If so, what?
>>
>>98180561
the metals seem like they don't have a lot of thought put into the scheme. of course it's fantasy so you can imagine it however you want, but would it really make sense for the head, the sword, and the handle of the axe to all be the one material but the axe blade and the head crest are a different one? also you only painted like 1% of the gem ovals. in my opinion picking out more details gives a more impressive end result than painting "better."
>>
>>98180597
Ya from what I can tell all those orbs arent gems at least from looking at the GW paint for these guys, though maybe im wrong? I wouldnt be against trying it for one, but my gut says it would make the dude look like he has chicken pox or something since he has like 20+ of the things on this tiny model. My thought process on the colors is burgundy/prurple for most. Gold should be the secondary color for like the duel disc and head. I made the crest silver to make it stand out a bit more, I did try gold which seems fine as well. The axe head interestingly is one I was unsure of. I tried silver for this one but im open to suggestion for what the axeheads should be.
>>
Quick, Anon! What's a good orange for painting a redhead?
>>
>>98180607
The bumps on eldar armor are canonically meant to be spots for sensors and stuff. Usually I only paint one as a gem if it has a setting/frame around it. Though honestly GW is inconsistent and has portrayed them as gems before.
>>
>>98180615
I start with a tan colour, because I don't paint redheads, I only like blondes.
>>
>>98180615
show a photo of the hair colour you're aiming for.
>>
>>98180561
The posing could use some work - looks like he's raising his arms like a happy baby.

I was a similar painting level to you & the best thing I ever did was getting an airbrush.

It makes highlighting flat/curved areas like space marines and eldar so easy and looks miles better than what I can do with a brush
>>
>bought a brush specifically for dry brushing
>more expansive than all my other brushes combined
>does a worse job than my basic dollar store school supply brush
I was scammed yet again
>>
>>98180676
Any suggestions on which to buy? I assume even a cheapish 40 buck chinese one is fine?
>>
>>98180684
Buy it nice or buy it twice.
>>
>>98180499
I meant going, autocorrect
>>
>>98180684
H&S Evo 2024 is the most generally accepted trade-off for quality vs price. If you go cheaper, you won't know what's you fucking up vs the tool underperforming. Also, the titanium parts make it more resilient for someone learning how to clean the tool without fucking the needle and nozzle
>>
>>98180482
THICC
>>
>>98180702
160 bucks huh? I guess I was dumb enough to get 2k points of eldar so maybe. Still kinda nuts thats the cheapest not shit airbrush.
>>
>>98180739
I'm not saying it's the definitive choice, but when I started airbrushing I cheaped out, hated every second of it, and nearly jacked it in until my wife got me the Evo as a birthday present. It was night and day, and I've heard anecdotal evidence of other anons experiencing the same
>>
the airbrush cult hard at work recruiting again.
>>
>spends thousands on plastic
>uses the cheapest shit possible to paint it
what causes this phenomenon
>>
>>98180805
>what causes this phenomenon
>spends thousands on plastic
you answered your own question, they have no money left
>>
what the fuck is with this thread these past couple of days, seriously
>>
>>98180883
Not my fault, I've mostly been lurking.
>>
>>98180833
Not necessarily, but most people are really bad at calculation and budgeting and they don't see the big things where they could actually save big time, compared to saving some pennies by buying cheaper paint.
Just a fun fact: you can buy 100 pots of paint for 2.40 each, for the price of one Armageddon box.
>>
>>98180883
It's some retard(s) from /40kg/, their usual shitposting points are all there, the only thing that's missing are trannies and political shit. Craftsperg has also been active in the past few days. Just ignore the retards and baiting, they will go away.
>>
>>98180615
Personally I started with AK "beast brown" mixed 50-50 with "burnt red", layered "beast brown" and then started to progressively adding "scarlet red" to it. Generally you start with some reddish brown and keep adding orange-red shades.
>>
>>98180684
Yeah you'll be fine using it for base coats + highlights - just do some research if you're buying a cheaper one to make sure it isn't dogshit

I'm using my gf's Ovega Metu Pro and it's dogshit but it's still making my minis look miles better just from being able to get really smooth volumetric highlights.
>>
>>98180684
>I assume even a cheapish 40 buck chinese one is fine?
No.
Otherwise, it depends. If you only want to use the airbrush as a really nice rattle can (for basecoating, maybe simple zenithal), then yes, you can get something like Fengda BD-180. But as other anon said, with cheap airbrushes, it will ALWAYS be a compromise, and I would personally question this kind of approach. Oftentimes, cheap airbrushes make people hate airbrushing.

If you want to actually use the airbrush for everything it can do (from basecoating to hair-thin detail painting), you should start with better mid-range workhorses like Evolution or Eclipse. These will also serve you for years, if not for life, if you take good care of them.
>>
>>98180684
Kinda reposting my similar post from /m/ (with little correctios):

>H&S, Iwata - top quality
>Tamiya, Badger, Paasche, GSI - mid zone but still good and often recommended
>Gaahleri - "premium" Chinese
>AK, Vallejo, etc - usually rebranded Chinese
>Fengda - standout Chinese
>other Chinese variants of existing models under myriad different brands - roulette, might work, might as well break after few uses or cause other problems
>>
>>98180805
They are different hobbies all mixed into one

There's not much point spending shitloads on painting gear if you suck at painting.

It's the same reason you see 10/10 paint jobs but the model is posed like a kid playing with action figures.
>>
>>98180684
Get a GSI Creos PS270, you can usually find them for relatively cheap (relative to their quality) on Amazon. Don't buy a shitty chinkbrush, they have wayyyy worse tolerances than brushes that are only a bit more expensive, this leads to them getting gummed up really fast.
For a compressor, any benchtop shop compressor will work fine. You'll be spraying at around 20-30 psi, but you should go for a compressor that can handle 50-100+ psi and has a tank (it improves airflow consistency).
>>
it's bizarre that some people complain about craftsperg but then at the same time give people advice to buy the cheapest airbrush to "see if they like it".
Buy at least a decent one and you'll be sorted. Buy a decent compressor with it and you're far more likely to actually enjoy the experience and therefore actually use the thing.

Or you can just use craftpaints...
>>
>>98181045(me)
picrel, price is in aud (that translates to roughly $85 usd)
secondhand compressor would be your best option
>>
>>98181052
it has to be bleedover from old scale modeling, where cheapness is king
>>98181053(me)
how did I forget the pic
>>
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I think I'm going to do a second layer of Rotwood Brown over the metals. The soldier in the charging pose has become my favorite so I started his highlights first. The one on the shoulder came out a bit too chunky. I cleaned some of it up after seeing it on camera.
>>
>>98181060
turn your flash off
>>
>sperg has to mention himself yet again just to make sure people remember he exists
>>
>>98181069
I was too lazy to fish out my desk lamp, sorry. Next time!
>>
>>98181083
I think you might be paranoid. Sorry about that.
Is craftsperg in the room with you right now?
>>
>>98181091
Don't get back to this, don't engage, don't shit up thread again. It was bad already before group of anons started to post some old work to at least fill thread with some content.
>>
I'm not a burger but I'm pretty sure craftsperg is. Would he even be awake at this time? It's early morning for most of America right now.
>>
>>98181102
aye alright. Sorry pal, not been on these threads for a bit.

back to the topic at hand.
If you're looking at airbrushes, I have personally used a number of H&S ones and they were all at least good, so I'd recommend those.
I've also tried a cheap chinese (iwata clone I believe) that was generally pretty awful to use and clean, and just about passable for priming. I would stay away from these.
>>
>>98180684
Master G233, around $40 and takes standard connections.
>>
>>98181091
Pretty sure it is you
>>
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>>98181091
>I think you might be paranoid.
Not solenoid?

Surely, I'm not the only one here old enough to remember Gal Force!
>>
>>98181052
This is what I was saying about sable brushes the other day. Telling new people to just grab any shitty old brush is just going to cause them a headache and make the learning process more frustrating. The poors need to stop hijacking the narrative in hobbyist spaces and convincing people to cut corners and squeeze out every last penny.
>>
>>98181804
It's not even about being poor or not. Low IQ people buy crap, simple as. If you don't have money, you can just wait and save up for something that will not only work well, but last you years, if not a lifetime.
>>
>>98181818
>Anon "brush" theory of socio-economic unfairness
>>
I bought an H&S Evo and I don't regert it at all. Even if only for priming, I would recommend an airbrush.
>>
>>98178995
A maleceptor recast that I didn't finish building until a year later. So much warping, a complete nightmare.
>>
>>98181818
>Low IQ people buy crap

Yes, but they are usually not the ones that try to find the cheapest option possible. They are the ones who spend $500 on an airbrush, and buy 3 army painter mega paint sets only to figure out they hate it after spraying 2 miniatures.

Smart people buy decent beginner stuff, because they know the cheapest stuff is crap, while the most expensive stuff is most likely not benefiting them as beginners. And this applies to every hobby.
>>
I buy good shit the first time. You waste more money than not doing it any other way.

>t. high iq
>>
>>98178995
Plastic: Probably some shortrun eastern european plastic set by Ace or UM were in tight competition with each other
Resin: Finecast LotR Easterling Amdur Lord of the Blades
Metal: Warlord Games German HMG team

>assembled
I just threw them away at some point
>>
>>98181920
If you are unsure if you will stick with (any) hobby, it also counts to low IQ.
Smart people know they are going to stick with something, and do >>98181925.
>>
holy shit how about you fucking niggers post some models instead of dogshit opinions nobody gives a fuck about
>>
>>98181958
Be the change you want to see.
>>
>>98181958
Like you just did?
>>
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Making the side plates for the chamfrons is a bit trickier than I thought.
>>
>>98181920
>only to figure out they hate it after spraying 2 miniatures.
People talk about this hypothetical all the time and I've genuinely never understood it. I can't think of anything in my life I've ever gotten interested in, done extensive amounts of research on, committed to spending the money on and then just dropped. Like how do people not know themselves well enough to know whether they'd like something?
>>
>>98182139
A lot of "normalfags" exhibit odd variant of heard behaviour - they see something getting popular (like YT creator showing some miniature/scale model/Gunpla painting video) so they buy what have best PR (you would be surprised how many people buy AP paints without any research because they have very active advertising) to show everyone they are "in it" and either give up quickly or never pick it up anyway as it was just for being "part of" whatever is popular at the moment. Same as people buying expensive pre-build PCs with lots of LEDs and some AAA games everyone talk about only to never even play them. Consumption without purpose was elevated to status of socially acceptable way of life.
>>
>>98182139
i can't believe you don't know of anyone irl who has never bought something just to never use it again, it's everywhere
there's a reason the 'pile of shame' is called that, do you have steam? do you not have unplayed games that you paid for?
>>
>>98182167
They just don't bother doing their own research and buy whatever they see recommended. Too busy going to clubs and falling for tourist traps or whatever they do.
>>
>>98182167
>nested dig at AP
Nice try Vallejo-anon
>>
>>98182261
NTA, but it might come to you as shocking, but a lot of people don't particularly like AP.
>>
>>98182168
Sure I’ve known people. I’m just saying I don’t get it. Your steam game/pile of shame examples also aren’t quite the same. That’s a case of FOMO + bargains which is different from spending a chunk of change to get into a hobby only to realize you don’t like said hobby.
>>
>>98182265
I honestly only ever see AP negativity in here. If they’re good enough for Vincey V they’re good enough for me.
>>
>>98182301
Vince still makes money out of youtube, anon. He is paid to advertise things. He also uses plenty of Vallejo paints you seem to hate.
>>
>>98182315
Not that guy, I've honestly never used Vallejo just ProAcryl, Citadel and AP. But yeah of course he gets paid but all the painting Youtubers seem generally pretty open about when a paint is dogshit, including old AP formulations, even when it's just a specific color in a line they otherwise like. Mostly just find it interesting that /tg/ is the only place I see a lot of hate. Still gotta try AK though, maybe I'll be a convert.
>>
>>98182362
Don't get me wrong, I often ramble against AP itt, but I would never say that they are unusable or dogshit. As far as hobby acrylics go, AP is completely serviceable. Most brands are, really. The problem with AP is that they have multiple hidden flaws that other ranges don't, and that I personally don't see a reason to ever buy from AP, since there's AK, PA, or even Vallejo that just werks, and have no problems with airbrushing, white spirit and similar.
I can't speak for other anons, but I would say that a fair bit of that hate comes from the fact that AP is a very over-marketed brand.
>>
>>98182413
Ah I don’t air brush or use spirits so that could also be why I haven’t run into issues yet. I’ve largely just been impatient and my hobby store only sells citadel, ap and proacryl
>>
>>98181539
Got that Bubblegum Crisis hair going.
>>
>>98182413
Every range has flaws. Half the AK paints I have thin too much when you breathe near them, and Pro Acryl seem to be aiming for that shitty GW oily consistency to bead up on the model. Vallejo bubbles meme. For a complete beginner AP probably has the most margin for error due to the relative thickness, opacity and self-levelling (also the satin finish hides mistakes), but coming from mostly fussy Scale 75 paints I had to adapt how I painted when using them. If I hadn't I'd probably be whining on here every day about how I can't understand why anyone would buy them vs the brands I'm used to.
>>
>AP
>AK
>Citadel
>Proacryl
>Scale75
>Vallejo

The true answer is reaper.
>>
>>98182758
The true answer is Decoart Americana
>>
>>98182758
reaper can't even keep colors consistent between batches
>>
>>98180607
primary/secondary colors is something to consider, but you should also think about what the model is supposed to represent. think about what parts of the model are supposed to be metal and which parts are bone or whatever. don't be the kid that draws the cow in his coloring book purple just because (unless it's an alien cow).

>>98180684
https://spraygunner.com/products/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-289-0-3mm-platinum
ignore everyone telling you to get chink shit get this one
>>
>>98182807
The greatest artists in history sourced their own pigments, ground them by hand and made their own paints.
If the best artists of all time can work with inconsistent and low quality materials, what the fuck is your excuse?
You cannot bottle talent, you cannot purchase skill.
>>
>>98180684
Seconding the master rec, bought one three years ago and have beat the shit out of it and it still works great for zenithaling and basecoating and varnishing, bought a second one as a dedicated detail brush with a .2mm needle and it's fantastic for doing things like OSL
I did buy a timbertech tank compressor to go with it though
>>
>>98181045
for the record psi matters very little for most air tools. the actual important stat you should be looking at is cfm.
>>
>>98182819
Have you always been a faggot, or is it something you needed to work towards?
>>
>>98182819
> If the strongest weightlifters can lift very heavy weights without a problem, why can't you?
Good question, anon. I wonder.
>>
>>98182864
Cope harder, craftsmen are not made by their tools.
>>
>>98182819
So why would I buy inferior materials if I could just mix my own paints by that logic
>>
>>98182873
NTA, but you chose a really weird hill to die on.
>>
>>98182885
hand made paints ARE the inferior tools, hand grinding with a mortar and pestle cannot give you a grind that is even equal to modern shitty craft paints.
And yet those inferior materials are what make up the most valued pieces of art that exist.
So, that means good painting and bad painting are not in any way defined by the materials involved, it is 100% a matter of skill, it doesn't matter in any quantifiable way what brand of paints you use, you're using materials that are perfect in practical terms.
>>
>>98182895
It's just the usual shitposter begging for attention, ignore and go back to posting WIPs
>>
>>98182910
>go back to posting WIPs
Okay, you can start.
>>
>>98182909
somebody pick up their chatGPT prompt it's lost the plot and is wasting their tokens
>>
>>98182909
Please post models with time stamp. I wish to see what masterpiece quality I should be aspiring to.
>>
>>98182910
Oh, right. That time of night.

No results to post yet, but I've gotten my Eldfall Oni assembled. Minis are really detailed. They do some kind of resin/plastic mix, and it feels very satisfying to handle. Not great for kitbashing, though, because of that.
>>
>>98182928
let's see what you're doing with what you've got
>>
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>>98182926
okay but it's only just been primed :)
>>
>>98182933
>Oh, right. That time
you usually make this claim about 6 or so hours ago, seems like "that time" is any time that ends in "O'clock" to you.
>>
>>98182936
>>98182941
so, no WIPs?
>>
>>98182941
NTA but you're not very subtle, craftsperg. You always start shitposting ~7pm-10pm in my timezone which fits perfectly. Now do us all a favor and go clean that barn of cow shit instead of shitposting here. Or just kill yourself already, that'd work too.
>>
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>>98182936
Now post yours with timestamp.
>>
>>98182954
I don't believe for a second that was duncan's actual first model
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>>98182953
>modern shitty craft paints
i'm not your boyfriend, dumbass
>>
>>98182933
> Oh, right. That time of night.

I'm not your bogeyman and have never said this on this thread. If it is a prevailing opinion, though, I can see why. My US co-workers just came online a little while ago, though.
>>
>>98182971
>>98182941
Meant to reply to this guy. Oh well.
>>
>>98182971
It doesn't matter what time of day it is, there is at least one anon who will frequently say "oh it's that time of day" when they see posts they do not like and denounce them as shitposts rather than addressing the content of the arguments or statements being made.
If you can't beat the argument by making an argument and have to resort to ad hominem type accusations then you only prove that you can't find any logical or factual issue with those arguments.
>>
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>>98182933
One of the marauders' photo. Looking for to painting this guy, he looks sick.
>>
>>98182999
>nooo you must engage my shitposts properly !!
kill yourself
>>
>>98182999
>make ridiculous claim
>start melting down when challenged on claim
>come up with excuses or ignore requests to back claim up with your own work
>why are people saying I'm a troll???
>>
>>98182999
> There's always someone who does this, so I can address them and their arguments by replying to you as if you were someone else.
Cool story bro, but really not interested in continuing this conversation.
Post minis.
>>
>>98183023
That same argument applies to you as well and your asinine assumption that "x time means y anon"
>>
>>98183004
From that angle it looks like a lot of the seams are fairly well hidden (belt line, beads around the neck, tassels on the shoulder armor). How was it to assemble?
>>
>>98183015
Factual claim. Davinci, Van Gogh, etc... made their own paints with pigments sourced themselves.
>>
>>98183043
>Everybody laughing at me is the same person
>>98183051
And you? What do you do?
People have posted their wips in response to your tantrum, where are yours?
>>
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Here’s a fugly little ghoul I’ve been trying to decide on flesh colors for. Think I’m gonna keep the red undertone but shift more towards a green-grey. The pink just reads as too alive
>>
>>98183063
>People have posted their wips in response
Holy newfag, that marine is a famous picture.
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>>98183074
Cute cope but >>98182939 and >>98183004 BTFO you
>>
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I bought a Revell Leopard tank, because I love assembly (even more so than painting) and it was on discount for 12€, which was really cheap imo.
After assembly I thought that I would like to use my leftover bits, mostly from 40K Orks and Sororitas, as well as some Necromunda stuff, to make it more "sci-fi" or just more interesting to look at in general for use as terrain or perhaps even an enemy in my single player tabletop RPG. The tank is really large compared to my minis (it's 1:35, not horribly out of scale, but most definitely BIG), so my idea was, I just slap a ton of guns on it and turn it into a sort of 8-man operated mobile armored transport and assault vehicle. Ork weapons are already oversized as hell, so it should look great as a heavy machine gun on thw tank. Also, I think I'll chop and shorten the barrel down a bit. Slap some backpacks on it as proviant. Lots of potential ideas! Looking forward to it.
>>
>>98183066
Ghouls aren't undead, they're people who eat undead flesh.
>>
>>98183080
primer isn't an example of paint, unpainted mini (responding to someone else's comment nonetheless) is also not an example of paint.
Figure it out newfag.
>>
>>98183097
Unless I’m way off base in my lore they’re technically vampiric though no?
>>
>>98183099
Cute cope, let's see any level of WIP by (you) before you make another post of any kind
>>
>>98183104
the folklore that fantasy gaming ghouls are based off is of humans eating dead/undead flesh and not being undead themselves.
D&D originally had them being a result of cannibalism who would turn into ghouls upon death, later editions made them truer to the folklore, and modern editions have them as a result of some demonic fuckery involving orcus.
other interpretations often have them as living human servants of vampires who get bonus powers and longevity by drinking vampire blood from their master.
So just circle back to the folklore.
>>
>>98183046
I find them a lot easier and faster to clean up and assemble than sprue minis, so far.

The minis come in little bags with like 3-4 pieces and the seams between pieces are very well hidden on these particular models that I've tried.

Each piece has one spot where the pour happened, usually on a flat attachment point where it won't show on the final model, and can be cut off with a hobby knife very easily.

Sometimes the spot is on the outside, or there are some minor moldlines, but these are usually in easy to reach places.

You can't use plastic glue, and the first time I used superglue on it I overestimated how much I'd need. You only need to put a bit of glue on the flat of the protruding attachment point, then there's some wiggle room in the socket you put it in for the glue to spread, and it attaches nicely.


Since it's a resin/plastic mix of some kind, it feels less fragile than pure resin but also a bit less bendy than plastic.

I've got some unassembled ones, let me unpack and take a pic of the attachment point.
>>
>>98183113
oh okay, so you'll just stop me from posting because you won't honestly respond to the challenge yourself?
Look, you can keep up with this "I'm the boss of the thread" bullshit (which is clearly working so well) or you can go back to the original argument and face it with fact or logic in counterpoint, or you can just fuck off.
two of those options result in an end of the non-contributive posting, none of those are scenarios where you win.
>>
>>98183138
There's that deflection and excuse like every shitposter loves to pull out!
>>
>>98183143
I made an argument, none of you can meet it on honest terms, so deflections and exuses are all stemming from you.
enghage with the argument, ignore it, or fuck off.
What you're doing right now isn't getting the result you want and it never ever will.
>>
>>98183152
You threw a fit when somebody insulted reaper paints and started spamming down while ignoring the topic of the thread
>>
>>98183157
No, I responded to the guy shilling for reaper, idiot.
Following a fucking chain is too hard for you?
>>
>>98183143
The rule is "DONT FEED THE TROLLS" so if you think anon is a troll you're an idiot for engaging.
>>
>>98183162
No you certainly didn't >>98182807 >>98182819
>>
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Chill out, bros. Relax. Post models. If you don't have any models to post, go make some. If you are at work or some shit and you can't make models to post, please don't use this thread as a shitflinging ground, it doesn't deserve this.

Let me repost some old shit of mine to keep it going.
>>
>>98183197
Very clean and cool
>>
>>98183187
Not my first post.
>>
How is Cadian fleshtone in terms of paint quality? The alternative I want to get, AK Beige Red isn't in stock and I'm sick of waiting. Alternatively I could get TTC Dwarven Skin, but it doesn't cover as well according to the Stahly chart.
>>
>>98183046
>>98183124
Alright, put together one of the little skellies from the same faction. They're optional, a combat unit in this are like 3-4 models and these guys aren't going to be in mine yet.

Forgive the blurriness, I wasn't too careful about taking these and don't have a great camera. Hope most the important parts are in focus.

In most of the images, it should be pretty clear what I'm pointing at.

Bottom left red: Superglue on the male attachment point, to be put into the female attachment point (nice).
Top right blue: bit to clean up, each piece has one of these somewhere, usually obvious and easy to clean, often on a flat.

Mid right blue: Same as top right blue, but not on an attachment point. This one is still hidden because it won't be facing outwards, so I was a bit rough cutting it away and didn't scrape gently.

Bottom right red: result of cleaning mid right blue.

Middle bottom orange: will need some gentle sanding or scraping along the hat's rim maybe. It's pretty thin and I didn't notice the imperfection until I looked at the photo.

Middle bottom teal: The spear is bent. This often happens with the long-hafted weapons, I noticed on these minis. When it happens, a dip in hot water usually straightens it out, bend it straight if not, then cold water to set it.

Middle bottom blue: line of sight indicators, indicating which 180degs the model is looking at. There's backstabbing and los, or something along those lines.

Middle bottom red: the base's pour point thingy, easy to cut away then sand a little or just leave since it's facing downwards.
>>
>>98183268
sure bud
>>
>>98183362
>>98183268
stopit
>>
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>>98183343
Thanks for the pics, looks a lot simpler than what I was imagining lol. May take a look through the catalog and see what piques my interest for a one off project.
>>
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>>98183390
It's a pleasure anon! Thanks for asking. Yeah, they're not bad. Hope you find one you like.

I like that they don't shy away from attractive female designs, and so far the guys and monsters aren't slouches either. They're a bit like Kingdom Death Monster in that regard.

Not mine, but picrel was posted on their discord and I loved it so I hope that person doesn't mind me sharing it to gawk at. Their slayer dragoon model is also really nice, and it has a big catto mount.
>>
>>98182959
Why not?
>>
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>>98181539
Trust me, you're not
Yes, I do buy cels based almost entirely on their shitposting potential, why do you ask?

>>98182536
The character designer is the same guy, he also did Gunsmith Cats
>>
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>>98183197
Love your stuff anon, here's my crab for good measure
>>
>>98183499
Man, Gunsmith Cats was the bomb.
>>
>>98183522
Fantastic crab. Always loved the Mars scheme and you aced it. Really like your blue lenses.
>>
>>98183099
>primer isn't an example of paint
but this thread has said there's no difference and will call you a schizo for saying otherwise
>>
>>98183603
Acknowledging that I am the person who posted a WIP that isn't primed yet, I still don't really think there's any real sense in a "you must be at least this far along" threshold to qualify as a WIP.
>>
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>>98183629
my pile of shame is also wip
>>
>>98183472
This is really nice. Looks like it's only in the tournament pack though.

Might buy it anyways...
>>
>>98183690
Can be, sure. You're planning to paint it eventually, right? I'd say that only doesn't qualify if you've decided that you're never going to paint it after all, and you're just weirdly storing it instead if giving it out to kids at the LGS to practice with.
>>
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>>98181060
Butcher poster from last thread, I went over it about three times to get it nice and rusty, it's why I said water it down, you'll be doing multiple coats.

I'm not sure this is good advice, but I tend to apply another layer of agrax and agrax-like technical paints just as the first layer is almost dry, just a little tacky. I'm not sure if this is a good idea, so I'll let the shitposter tell me I'm doing it wrong before I recommend it to you.
>>
>>98183743
>You're planning to paint it eventually, right?
yeah that's still the idea
>>
>>98183800
A wash before the layer is dry? Hmm, never tried that before. I have put a wash on early after the basecoat, and then done another layer of the basecoat. Why specifically before the layer is dry, though? Doesn't that cause a bit of texture build-up? Or maybe that's what you're after.
>>
>>98183807
Then that's a big pile of WIP in my book, haha. Even if it were to technically not count as in progress, it's still fun to see what people have planned.
>>
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>>98183814
texture is the word I was looking for in my first post.
here's another example, the sword was done using repeating coats of waters down army painter strong tone, or skin tone, or something something tone.
>>
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>>98183701
Red Rasetsu from the normal oni pack also has an awesome pose. You've got to run events to get the tournament pack, unfortunately. They've also got a couple of pretty exclusive minis from prior runs that are hard to get your hands on after the fact, like their amazon gladiatrix.
>>
>>98183847
Oh yeah, see what you mean now. Kind of like a raw iron kind of look. Looks neat anon, I also like that on the odd model here or there
>>
>>98183857
>>98183472
I'm too illiterate to read through this conversation but I really like these models, what are they from?
>>
>>98183857
Im honestly torn on Eldfall minis. At one hand, unicool produces really nice minis with very high levels of details, at the other hand - last time I painted them, I had to use watchmaker glasses to even see most of those details. It was very exhausting.
>>
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>>98183870
agrax also works as a nice stain to make the silver metallic look nice and aged
>>
>>98183871
Eldfall Chronicles, they're doing some kind of plastic/resin hybrid thing and the quality is really good. See >>98183343 for assembly example to get an idea.
>>
>>98183878
Ah, fair. I've painted with magnis here and there so it's not a dealbreaker for me, but it's true there is a lot of tiny detail. I guess you can go with broad strokes and not worry about every little piece, though. To be honest, I've just painted a lot of flat surface on space marines and the amount of tiny detail is refreshing. But these models definitely aren't for batch painting, I think I have to take my time and work through them like over 4-12hrs.
>>
>>98183883
Thank you. That sounds weird but it's fine.
>>
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Had school today so I didn’t have much time or energy. Decided my dudes needed some color besides green. That will will look great with some things out brown wash, make a nice soft cream color.
>>
>>98183922
>"Captain, they've inverted the artificial gravity."
>"Xenos bastards!"
>>
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>>98183922
Whoops, let’s see if this is better
>>
>>98183922
I don't think I have a suitable anime girl gif of them looking all the way upside down.
>>
>>98183933
>"Standard functionality has been restored."
>"Thank the Emperor that we have assistance from the respected Adeptus Mechanicus."
>>
>>98183933
I definitely need a better lighting set up. Some cardboard and white spray should do the trick. Also an extra lamp
>>
>>98183942
Turn the one of the anime girl on its side on its side.
>>
>>98183945
I've had some trouble with this as well. I think it might work better with a black background, that way there's less ambient light for the camera to focus on.
>>
>>98183901
Sure thing anon, hope you find one you like, they're fun.
>>
>>98183878
Have you got any pics from the last time you painted them? I just remember seeing one anon's samurai ab squad and that's what got me going. Now I'm wondering if that was yours.
>>
>bought some cool old urban war triads
>package was short a model
>and some of the models aren't the same ones in any of the product photos
>and they're all covered in shitloads of junk metal in from where decades of mold wear has taken its toll
fug
>>
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update on this guy, I gave his eyes a glow-up ages ago
>>
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>>98183954
Let’s try it out
>>
>>98183988
Oh, nice. Makes a big difference.
>>
>>98183982
Ooh, very cool. I like that guy a lot.
>>
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>>98184014
thanks anon
>>
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>>98183544
Thank you anon! I love the Mars scheme as well, I'm particularly fond of my tech-priest dudes
>>
What's a good off black to use? I have vallejo model black, which is a pretty dark black. But I could use something a step up in brightness
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>>98184623
add a little bit of blue.
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>>98184623
pro acryl dark neutral grey
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I used a wash on part of my mini and it dried super glossy. Is there a way to make it matte again other than just hitting it with matte varnish?
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>>98184643
this one is great
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I painted a mini for the first time, it was a spare body I had just to see how it turned out and I did sort of half ass it but I have 2 specific questions after doing it.
1. How do I avoid colors like the brown being overly matte? I'm assuming I just didn't thin it enough, and it might just be how that specific color of brown looks. The only parts I didn't do a second coat on were the front straps.
2. Since I wasn't really satisfied with how the helmet, pants, boots and I guess the web gear turned out how can I give stuff painted black depth? I was thinking about just not painting the stuff that would be leather since the primer is black but that probably wont work if I need to do touch ups. I was thinking that I could try doing a very thin drybrush coat with grey to give it some depth, and then a wash with agrax earthshade add detail to the color its next to like the grey of the coat.
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>>98184895
No.
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>>98181539
>>98182536
>>98183499
>>98183533
There's a Hurricane Tonight!

>New Thread:
>>98185203
>>98185203
>>98185203
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>>98185205
How did this thread go so quickly? What was everybody sperging about this time?
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>>98185206
Time speeds up as you get older.
>>
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1.01 MB JPG
You should quit while you're a head



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