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File: WIP Manic Monday.jpg (282 KB, 780x784)
282 KB JPG
Work in Progress, Just Another Manic Monday Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Six o'clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnPX-uI7ivM

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98236673
>>98226823
>>98215119
>>
Please include a collage in the next thread, baker-san.
>>
>>98244988
Please do a best in thread instead.
>>
>>98244988
>>98245023
Sounds like a couple of excellent ideas. Fill this thread with good work and less shitposting, and I'll see what I can do.
>>
File: IMG_20260622_093325.jpg (2.06 MB, 2112x2290)
2.06 MB JPG
Finished a Wizard/Apprentice set for my Barbarians
>>
>>98245089
Are these meant for Frostgrave, or a similar game?
>>
>>98245099
Frostgrave, yes.
>>
File: wavingsmily.gif (16 KB, 220x139)
16 KB GIF
>>98245089
hello craft-kun
>>
File: IMG_20260622_194331~2.jpg (342 KB, 1175x1429)
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>>98245049
I'm doing what I can but it does not look good so far.
>>
>>98245104
what do you do to keep track of wounds, turns, phases, activated, soldiers, etc, just pen and paper?
>>
File: Captain.png (1.5 MB, 1140x1389)
1.5 MB PNG
>>98245222
nta but also frostgrave.
Dice on the wizard sheet for wounds, tokens for activated, die for turns, and we just remember phases thats not hard.
>>
File: IMG_20260622_203324~2.jpg (232 KB, 824x1175)
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I guess I have to leave this guy as he is, since I'm making him looks worse with each interation. Not my lucky model for sure.
>>
File: 20260622_202744.jpg (1.42 MB, 2689x3361)
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Hello anons, repainted the helmet white and everything came together nicely.
>>
File: 20260619_000233.jpg (2.81 MB, 3000x3750)
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What the helmet looked like before.
>>
File: IMG_20260622_221013~2.jpg (57 KB, 569x432)
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I honestly think I'm murdering my brushes for some reason or in some way and don't know how. This one was less than few months in use and when wet it's already quite thick at the tip. Here is how it looks when dried, too.

Keep cleaning them during use, later with shampoo and conditioner so they should be fine.

>>98245830
Looks pretty cool, guy seems to be quite happy but I cannot explain why I get that feeling.
>>
File: 20260622_193256.jpg (614 KB, 2467x3083)
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And the heraldry. It's very gratifying to have reached a level of free-hand that I'm happy with and feeling confident enough to paint more difficult ones instead of simple crosses etc.
>>
>>98245841
Why don't you just use brush cleaner? Can you show us it wet?
>>
What's a good cyanoacrylate gel available in Central Europe?
>>
File: IMG_20260622_221922~2.jpg (142 KB, 1097x856)
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>>98245856
Those special soap bottles? Too expensive and when I asked about them at art store, they replied they are overpriced and normal soap + conditioner is better.

>wet
Like this. Looks okay but when loaded with paint, even small amount, behaves oddly. Plus, when it start to get dry, some hair start to stand out.
>>
>>98245897
That's how my brushes look. And I use this.
>>
File: 1779500220631421.jpg (59 KB, 500x499)
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Is there any benefit to wearing gloves other than just not wanting to get paint on my hands? I was watching a siegestudio video and they said gloves are good for glazing because you wick off extra paint without removing all the moisture.
>>
File: Mortifactor veterans.png (7.05 MB, 2108x2400)
7.05 MB PNG
I got my hands on the Leviathan Sternguards, so I kitbashed some Mortifactors.
>>
File: IMG_20260622_224148~2.jpg (843 KB, 1477x1845)
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>>98245987
You kinda answered you own question, keeping hands clean is the only reason. Maybe you might want to wear them during assembly to avoid leaving residue on surface but you usually clean them before priming anyway. You can remove excess paint on literally anything else that does not absorb moisture like "palette paper" from cheap store.
>>
>>98246014
>>98245987
is it wrong to remove excess paint on a paper towel? I've always done that when glazing.
>>
>>98246065
Using a paper towel runs the risk of your brush picking up paper fibers and then 10 hours later when you're looking at zoomed in photos of your model you'll see those fibers buried in the paint layers and cry tears of blood
>>
>>98245987
if you're super greasy it'll protect the model from your pighands, otherwise it's just preference if you don't like putting acrylics on your skin
>>98246065
paper towel will leach moisture out which will dry paint in your brush faster
>>
>>98245897
Never get painting advice from the poors they’ll just cost you more money in the long run
>>
File: McCarron'sArmoredCavalry.jpg (1007 KB, 3587x1753)
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Some McCarron's Armored Cavalry for Battletech. Not super happy with cockpits, but is good enough for table play.
>>
Nice OP pic today.

Anyway. You're being gaslit by artlets about chromatic black for miniature painting
Would you like to know more?
[yes] [no]
>>
>>98245881
isn't henkel a germ company?
>>
>>98246462
Depends on what you are going for. For most people getting a coal black paint is good enough. People that want more visual interest will mix a chromatic black. Both are valid approaches.
>>
>>98245987
your hands have oil on them which can prevent paint from properly sticking to your models
>>
>>98245987
the only reason is to show up to a painting event and do it to seem like you're a "professional"
>>
>>98246558
>chromatic black gives more visual interest
This is the gaslighting. There's some truth to it, but it's not a good way to represent the uses for chromatic black over a carbon black.

The main 2 benefits of chromatic blacks are it's low tinting strength, and it's ability to maintain or even enhance the saturation of your core color palette when tinting. Not to nebulously 'look more interesting'. The foundation of this is that when you make a chromatic black from let's say a pure pigment green and red, those are both transparent paints, and as such the result is a transparent 'black' You can add it to other paints without fucking up the opacity, and if you add it to other paints in the same color palette as the black was made, depending on the pureness of those pigments or if they've been mixed or desaturated, you can actually darken and maintain saturation, sometimes even increase saturation depending on the mixes involved. All the while being a lot more forgiving because something like a carbon black will completely shift a mix with even tiny amounts while a chromatic black is a lot weaker.
This stuff matters a lot more for oil paints where long term blending is a thing, but can still matter for acrylic on-the palette mixing even if we don't really do wet blending often enough to justify it.

But good news, you no longer need to mix chromatic black just as an 'interesting' black, because that's not how it works anyway. If you're trying to do that just use payne's grey if you want a cool black alternative or take a dark red/brown/orange and put some carbon black in it for a warmer black alternative. No need to fuss with mixing a whole new black from scratch just because influencers talk about it.
>>
>>98245919
Same.
>>98245841
You're getting paint in the ferrule. If you see paint past the halfway point, rinse it out, run it through your brush cleaner and switch to your secondary brush. DON'T stir your paint with the brush you paint with, DON'T let the paint get past the middle or it will wick into the ferrule. If you see paint on the outside of the brush under the ferrule like your pic shows, you fucked up.
>>
>>98245850
It's ace man good job
>>
>>98246096
What can you use instead to avoid this?
>>
>>98246718
mechanics towels. The blue ones.
>>
>>98246096
I can confirm this.
>>
>>98246096
>>98246132
What do you guys use then?
>>
>paint says it will arrive today
>it’s 7pm and the tracker says it hasn’t even been shipped
something tells me that I will not get my paints today
>>
>>98246734
the back of my hand
>>
sneaky beakie
>>
>>98246684
>when you make a chromatic black from let's say a pure pigment green and red
that makes brown. you'd want to mix a dark blue like indigo to a brown like van dyke to get black. if you already have those colors on your palette why introduce another paint like payne's grey?
>>
File: chb_diagram.jpg (20 KB, 500x288)
20 KB JPG
>>98246993
Wrong. You're just used to mixing with paints full of white.
>>
>>98245841
it's drying out from the excessive cleaning
>>
>>98247008
so oil paint not acrylic? do that with acrylic and let us know.
>>
>>98247070
You want me to mix single pigment acrylics and let you know if a green and red make a chromatic black or a brown, because you believe linseed oil changes how the pigments look when mixed?
>>
File: 200w.gif (400 KB, 200x200)
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>>98247082
I forgot the picture.
>>
File: larpskorpsofkrieg (1).png (7.34 MB, 5500x5500)
7.34 MB PNG
Finished my death korps squad. I think they turned out pretty good but I definitely need to practice stuff like edge highlighting on the next things I paint. Im probably gonna get a kroot killteam or a navy breacher killteam next.
>>
File: 20260621_195339.jpg (430 KB, 2927x2252)
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>>98247122
>>
>>98247082
youre the one telling us how great it is so show why we should use it.
>>
My latest practice head. Unlike the previous ones where I just felt like they were steps along the way, I'm actually damn proud of this one. You really do have to just trust the process.
>>
>>98247191
To be clear, I'm suggesting that for most miniature painting instances people SHOULDN'T use it, because it's a waste of their time when trying to implement it in the way that mini painting influencers are suggesting.
>>
>>98247223
>sloptuber shit
oh good we can ignore it
>>
>>98245049
Please paint a collage in MS paint instead, including the shitposts
>>
ive never painted b4 im making a heretic guard guard

whats a fuck easy paint theme thats very forgiving to hide my fuckups

i want something dark thinking maybe a dark grey as the clothes haven't decided the armour
>>
>>98245830
He looks nice
>>
>>98247193
she needs more makeup tutorials but good effort, girl
>>
>>98247193
I still think you need to be more subtle with the pale color. the way it is now still sort of looks like face paint.
>>
File: 1779230379989922.png (343 KB, 650x650)
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>>98245850
Good shit.
>>
File: blade_champ.jpg (650 KB, 2414x1500)
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I got this guy painted up enough to put him together. Still need to finish the base before I glue him to it. For some reason his right arm was a pain in the ass to glue on. I think his shoulder pad was bumping up against his cape or something, it just wouldn't stick.
>>
Are there any good nmm references for this particular shield? I can’t for the life of me get it right. This is not my mini btw.
>>
>>98247561
he looks good but I hate his pose
>>
>>98246150
How so? And how do I know when the money is worth spending on the more expensive stuff?
>>
File: file.png (1.35 MB, 900x900)
1.35 MB PNG
How would I go about getting this sort of gold color simply
Just paint a red gold and give it a black wash?
>>
>>98245919
My lgs sells this kind of thing but is “drunken brush goop.”
The amount doesn’t look like it will last as long as the b&j brush soap.
And I’m unsure if it is a cheap something with the hobby tax thrown on it.
Is it better to stick with the b&j sold at the art store?
I’ll admit I have killed brushes through incompetence or misusing the brush soap I have at the moment.
>>
>>98247722
brown undercoat > darker gold colour > dark wash
>>
File: IMG_8267.jpg (1.22 MB, 2815x3596)
1.22 MB JPG
made good headway on Drazhar tonight
>>
>>98247755
Lovely progress anon!
What did you do for the horns and how did you do the runes on the blades?

I think there is a bit of brown dusting on the grey rocks near one of the gold details.
Is that a mistake or intentional? Other than that it looks okay to me so far.
>>
>>98247722
>gold
it looks like bronze to me
>>
What’s an idiot proof tutorial on restoring a dirty airbrush to working order? That only used acrylics.

I have an aluminum or stainless steel dimple tray.
It is covered in dry acrylics. What’s the best way to remove it all without compromising it to cause it to rust?
>>
File: IMG_8268.jpg (1.38 MB, 3353x3745)
1.38 MB JPG
>>98247771
horns go ubshati bone, zandri dust, dryad bark, dryad back mixed with black. the transitions were not as smooth as I hoped. Also need to highlight through the bark section, but dont know id I should keeping the screaming skull line all the way through

I do want to rocks to be a “dusted” but there’s still plenty of clean up left to do, especially the black highlights
>>
>>98247788
take it apart and toss anything with paint on it into a jar of acetone
>>
>>98247788
disassemble, remove needle (use pliers if needed), clean with solvent and pipe cleaners
>>
>>98247813
>>98247819
I’m not sure about acetone. Or solvents.
But a dedicated airbrush cleaner will work and I get to support the lgs meme right?
I have cotton swabs to push on more entrenched acrylics. Is that alright too?
>>
>>98247840
>I’m not sure about acetone.
why? if it's not a cheap piece of shit it should be fine. if it is remove the seals first and then throw it in.
>>
I was watching old formula p3 painting tutorials and remembered their two brush blending tutorial.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=o7J9uHvdBXY&ra=m
I liked it even if the dimple tray and plasticard usage is a bit unorthodox.
What I did not like was the use of saliva for blending the paint.

I remembered a drybrush tutorial by Duncan Rhodes where he used a somewhat moist sponge in a small jar to moisten a drybrush slightly.
Would this make the technique work in moistening the second brush enough to do the blending or is saliva genuinely a good kind of liquid for this technique?
>>
>>98247850
The seals are the rubber stuff like The rings right?
>>
>>98247855
Some of the parts at the back of the airbrush use rubber seals, the only seal that gets touched by paint is either teflon or beeswax.
The part of the brush you'd actually want to soak in solvent has no rubber seals.
>>
>>98247870
most airbrushes have a rubber gasket on the nozzle threads, even soaking in IPA for prolonged periods isn't good for that
>>
>>98247876
on good ones they're made of teflon. anyway just stop being a bitch. right now you have a paperweight. even if you melt your seals it's only a few bucks to replace them and you get your tool usable again.
>>
>>98247876
You can remove it before soaking the body, that's part of the "disassemble" step.
>>
>>98245991
Those some Red Corsair bits too? They work well.
>>
>>98247731
How the fuck you misuse brush soap dawg. Wet your brush wet the soap get some on there and twirl it around in your fingers.
>>
>>98247731
the secret to using brush soap is to drag backwards along the soap, rinse under water the same way, repeat, repeat, repeat repeat, etc. then apply regular human hair conditioner and reshape the brush with that and let dry, rinse before next use.
>>
>>98247870
>>98247876
Thanks I’ll check the manual of my airbrush.
Here’s hoping I can restore it to working order if I ruined it.
>>
>>98247968
>>98247980
Thanks! Don’t underestimate one’s ability to mess up simple tasks.
But I’ll try this.
>>
>>98247852
>https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qwJmUmmHcnw&pp=ygUTRm9ybXVsYSBwMyBhaXJicnVzaNIHCQlBAqO1ajebQw%3D%3D&ra=m
Just came across a p3 airbrush tutorial where they mix a custom thinner and cleaner thing.
Does this diy recipe actually work well and does it have a better name?
>>
>>98248009
yeah window cleaner/windex is just lauryl dimethyl amine oxide to make a surfacant and 2-hexyloxyethanol and isopropanolamine, in other words a slower evaporation rate alcohol with a tiny bit of soap. By adding a little windex to your paint it flows better or you can use flow improver which you can buy from any hobby shop or online store which is usually alcohol and propylene glycol and soap. Personally I wouldn't use any window cleaner that has a color like windex is blue so I wouldn't use that. I'd just use a couple of drops of propylene glycol and a couple of drops of alcohol or a clear window cleaner. Same thing basically, but without the blue dye. Using more alcohol makes it thin the paint better, using more propylene glycol makes it flow better and dry more slowly which keeps the airbrush wet for longer, but if you use too much it can make the paint sticky and the paint will dry really slowly, so just a drop or two of each in a lot of paint will go a long way. Or like I said just buy flow improver.
>>
>>98247870
Wrong
>>
>>98248009
I heard that wiper fluid for carts works the best
>>
File: IMG_20260622_200155.jpg (3.95 MB, 3072x3394)
3.95 MB JPG
Happy with my progress. Now just waiting for my basing components.
>>
>>98248154
Looks pretty good so far. I'd add some highlights to the top of the cloak aswell.
>>
>>98248154
Haha, this makes me think of my cat when he wants to come inside for some reason. Nice work anon, ghost is looking great
>>
>>98248154
Idk anon I feel like you could put a bit more effort into it.
>>
>>98247938
No Red Corsaires, just older kits from 40k and 30k.
Though those would be an option too.
>>
i need some gold paint, both dull and bright, what would you guys recommend? i've been liking the silvers i have in vallejo metal color but i've seen some comments about their gold being bad. i was not impressed by gw or vallejo game color (old formula) they were fine but i would try anything else over buying them again.
>>
>>98248320
all golds suck. something about there being no good gold colored metal flakes (aside from actual gold).
>>
>>98248320
pro acryl bronze is the best one coat coverage gold even though it's called bronze
>>
>>98248168
I tried to keep it quite black too simulate a black void look. Also Ive never been the best at highlighting.
>>98248212
Thanks!
>>98248257
Fair enough, I'm just happy that the paint looks quite neat. I'm going some more interesting stuff on the base with grass and flowers as soon as they get delivered.
>>
File: 20260623_013428.jpg (433 KB, 3060x4080)
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>>98248326
Have you tried Greenstuff world's gold metal pigments? I mix them with Vallejo air model gold. I'm no great painter. But I think it looks good.
>>
>>98248320
I'm very content with TTC Dragons Gold, didn't try rest of their gold shades but this one is excellent. Also heard good opinions on Vallejo new metallics range gold shades, especially Imperial Gold.
>>
File: priests.jpg (1.14 MB, 1300x1300)
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>>98248408
TTCs paler, brighter gold is also very nice, Glistening Gold they call it. I use it as my first highlight color before Canoptek Alloy.
>>
>>98248430
Lovely stuff as always. Do you ever get frustrated when painting all the alternating colours on your guys? I imagine it takes quite a bit of time.
>>
>>98248353
I want gold that looks like this
>>
>>98248433
gold leaf and buffing
>>
>>98248433
Fat chance, that's electroplated, they come like that off the sprue. Bandai make a bunch of different plated kits.
>>
>>98248443(me)
>>98248433
The best chance you have of replicating that effect is by using sanding your model extremely smooth, (1500+ finish), then starting with an EXTREMELY high gloss lacquer black undercoat (mandatory), and layering with the smoothest lacquer gold you can find.
>>
>>98248432
Thank you, anon! I really like how the result looks so I don't mind it that much, honestly. I imagine it would probably get annoying if I was going for speed but I usually take my time with every mini.
>>
File: 1776358176434474.jpg (1.24 MB, 2908x1579)
1.24 MB JPG
>>98248443
why can bandai do that and whatever the hell is going on here but gw can't even fix the absolute disaster that the tau commander backpack is?
>>
>>98248457
Bandai are gods of injection molding that constantly try to outdo themselves with new engineering, and gw are cheapskates that don't even know how to make decent push fit kits after decades of attempts (even chinese gunpla bootleggers know how to do that).
>>
>>98248433
>>98248439
Just recast your mini in wax & cast it in gold

https://www.instagram.com/reels/DQn1v3tD9cd/
>>
File: 1782206364983.png (49 KB, 565x429)
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>>98248457
skill, care, dedication, passion, effort, and actual hobbyists instead of consoomers as a target
>>
>>98248469
>still cheaper than gw plastic
>>
>>98248480
Unironically true of gold leaf.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcNu1p29_B4
>>
>>98248433
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/chrome-paints/2593-chrome-paint-gold-17ml.html
>>
>>98248486
>>
>>98248498
Wow that looks pretty terrible.
>>
>>98248498
That looks like it has been brushed on, chrome-like paints achieve a best result when airbrushed.
>>
>>98248503
Watched the demo video on gsw's page.
Airbrushed looked fine, but when they got to the handbrushing segment, they were only able to achieve a decent result by applying it timmy-thick, unthinned, straight out of the bottle.
Like all metallic paints, it's also extremely dependant on how glossy the basecoat is, with that being the biggest factor to how dull the final result will be.
>>
>>98248506
thick enough to form beads of paint on the model
>>
>>98248433
I have yet to see a good highly reflective gold paint.
IMO the best approach would be
>glossy primer (or prime and then gloss varnish)
>chrome paint of your choice
>tint with some transparent yellow-orange (NOT just thinned yellow-orange, you want something that is transparent or youll fuck up the reflective effect)
>>
File: elvis.jpg (351 KB, 942x869)
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>>98248320
Scale 75's metal and alchemy. Fantastic shine and a wide range of tones for different golds.
>>
>>98247722
scale 75 decayed metal
>>
>>98248457
why should they do when gw customers will buy shit in a box if they were offered to?
>>
>>98248466
It's not just Bandai, it's upper range Asian stuff in general. Look at new scale models from Meng, RFM, Takom and such. They all mog GW so bad it's not even funny. Both in material, detailing, and engineering. These motherfuckers are doing not only with shapes/designs that would make GW kill themselves, but they are also making kits with actual textures, from rubber to rolled or cast steel. And what they can't do in plastic, because there are limits to the technology, they just give in you etched metal.

And these are 1/35 kits, so not only you are getting more plastic that's better in every regard, it's also usually cheaper.
>>
>>98248623
GW (or more accurately, Forgeworld) used to produced etched brass detail parts for Horus Heresy. I have no idea why they stopped, they could've just started including them in kits and instantly make all their releases nicer.
>>
>>98248631
When FW died, Warhammer turned away from scale modelling towards mass marvelslop with bolters it's today. A great decision for making money and normalfags, a tragedy for everyone else.
>>
>>98248635
Forgeworld deserved to die for inflicting Custodes on us. A lot of the superhero garbage came from them, everything they made had to be bigger and more special than mainline GW.
>>
File: TSF-067.jpg (613 KB, 1879x2053)
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Another wip halfling conversion, this guy is made with a conquistador torso with the legs trimmed down. I did another full conversion like this with another pose, a commander holding his sword up in the air.

I've been messing around with different poses, the half-sword and other techniques that aren't often depicted in miniature. This one here, using his sword in a "mordhau," technique, basically just turning it around, grabbing it by the blade and swinging the haft like a hammer. It was a technique used against armored opponents, along with the half-sword where they'd grab the blade with one hand, while still holding the haft, using it like a crowbar to try to wedge it between armor, or aiming for slits in visors etc.

They'd often try to wrestle or throw their opponent to the ground for more leverage with the swing, if it was possible then they'd just wail on them. Some swords had pommels and crossguards that were designed for this method to be more effective that turned them into an ad-hoc war pick. The sword was made by cutting the handle off of a sheathed sword piece and then scribing a recess into the handle for the blade to sit in so it wouldn't just snap off when someone looks at it funny. Overall this one is promising. Gonna add a crest of some sort to the helmet, a sheath etc.
>>
>>98248661
Here's a side view.

I was curious about how you guys approach your mould lines. I tend to leave them on until the figure is completed, if the part is easy to reach and not a tenuous or fragile connection. For smaller pieces that are thicker I have found doing the removal ahead of time is good practice. But I have also found, depending on the manufacturer and quality of the plastic, is that thinner and smaller pieces that are going to be fully attached (like the visor on this guy's helmet) are easier to clean up without damaging them or warping/bending the plastic from handling, after they have been glued and cured to the figure.

I don't know though maybe I should be scraping them all off before. I haven't worked with a lot of plastic until a few months back. Any advice is much appreciated!
>>
>>98248700
Whatever you find most convenient. Sometimes I scrape all the parts down on sprue before cutting them off and dealing with the attachments, if the parts are large I cut them off first. I rarely do them after gluing though.

Side note, that leftover sprue on the helmet has to go.
>>
>>98247193
Very nice. The highlight on the lower eyelids might be a bit too strong.
>>
>>98247363
Look up some Duncan Rhodes tutorials. See some of the links in the OP.
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>>98248457
This isn't even the most impressive thing they can do. They can make poseable, single-piece, multi-colour parts all in one piece. Picrel is from at least 11 years ago, and they've only gotten better since then.
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>>98248813
they've also had this technology since the 90s
https://www.dalong.net/reviews/hg/hg1/hg1_i.htm
>>
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Lowered and moved the plasma cannon forward per anon's suggestion
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>>98248830
thats overkill as fuck but I'll be damned if it isnt cool
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>>98248009
That's exactly what I use for priming and varnishing. I never waste airbrush medium for that.

And for airbrushing scenery with artist paints, of course.
>>
>>98248813
Sadly, people complained too much about these inner skeletons on RG line, saying they are too fragile and such and Bandai got rid of them. Similar situation to fully articulated hands (people complained they are "too hard" to paint).
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>>98248877
I mean, both of those are true. The technology was impressive, sure, but the more restrained approach to modern RG design has led to them being better model kits.
>>
>>98248877
>>98248889
You two sound like you know what's up. I've gotten my hands on some HG gundam kits and noticed that the plastic is already coloured. Do people paint over these, or any gundams, or is the intent simply to assemble? Sorry for the noob question, but I'm curious how people use them.
>>
>>98248907
Lots of people do paint their gunpla, though the majority of casual builders just snapbuild them.
On /gpg/ the snapbuilders sometimes get derogatorily called "snapshitters". Think of it as the equivalent of people who only paint basic slapchop.
I personally think there's nothing wrong with just snapbuilding most kits, which is fun on it's own, but it does indeed make you more of a casual fan.
>>
>>98248917(me)
If you do want to paint them, you can airbrush lacquers, brush paint enamels, or sponge paint acrylics, there's a lot of different options.
I wouldn't recommend brush painting acrylics though, since that's a pain in the ass and almost always looks pretty rubbish on gunpla.
>>
>>98248922(me)
>>98248907
If you're interested, go check out /gpg/ on /m/, and take a look at some of the past groupbuild entries and winners, there's some nice kits posted there.
https://flickr.com/photos/197891373@N06
>>
>>98248917
Thanks mate, that puts it into perspective for me. I usually don't do vehicles so it's a nice opportunity to try to paint up a mech.
Haha, the little bit of elitism is funny, but understandable in the sense that people appreciate getting really into their hobby and enjoy teasing those who only get into it partway.
Have a good one.
>>
>>98248922
>>98248927
Very nice, I'll have a look thanks
Yeah I was thinking sponge and brush for touchups
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>>98248830
that's a lot better indeed, could be even lower, but it looks a lot more believable now
>>
>>98248934
that's a good way to do it, brush acrylics are pretty good for small details (n'doy lol)
>>
>>98248907
Most gunpla kits are designed to be suitable for literal kids (they even have a line, Entry Grade, that require no nippers, parts being easy to detach from sprue with leaving only minimal to no leftovers) so they are designed to look good out of box. Tons of people simply put them together or only add panel lining and leave them like that and there is nothing wrong with it. Some people get angry at that, with whole "snapshitter" term mentioned in >>98248917 but aside from that, it's all free game.
>>
>>98248929
If you wanna paint your gunpla, look into seamwelding. It'll make your kits look much nicer.
>>
>>98248922
>wouldn't recommend brush painting acrylics though, since that's a pain in the ass and almost always looks pretty rubbish on gunpla.

It's only more time consuming. I was painting my big robots with brush for quite some times only recently got airbrush but still incorporate it into my workflow rather than replacing brush completely. Different tools for different purposes.

Also funny how I initially got into /WIP/ because I wanted to get better at brush painting and for that purpose started painting miniatures.
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>>98248973
It's basically just filling seams with sprue goo and smoothing with sandpaper.
>>
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>>98248907
Painting gunpla is nice, but if you're lazy, just spray flat varnish on it. It can make the kit look much better than bare plastic
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>>98248830
actual size of my willy woonis btw :))
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>>98247852
Not usually bothered by this kind of thing but why was this so disgusting to watch and listen to
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>>98249098
I believe you...
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>>98249060
obligatory
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>>98249100
>like 10 seconds in uses saliva to feather the paint
yep that's how far i got
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>>98249060
>>98249110
second obligatory
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>>98247852
I use my saliva all the time. Not going to post my work though, because others will recognise it.
>>
>>98248320
retributor armory is still the best and it's not close.
>>
File deleted.
Can anyone suggest some good hair colors to go with gold bikini armor? The complementary color of yellow on the color wheel is purple, but that looks really weird. Is gold even considered yellow, or is it something else?
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>>98248320
Has anyone tried Kaleido metallic paints yet? I've seen youtuber and reddit saying they're the best acrylic metallics for airbrushing right now, but I don't trust them
>>
>>98249173
The colour wheel is heuristic, not law. The first thing you should think is: "does this look weird?" if the answer is yes, don't do it.
I'd go for a darker colour, a wine red, a forest green, a deep blue, etc.
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>>98249173
>>
>>98249183(me)
>The first thing you should think is: "does this look weird?" if the answer is yes, don't do it.
Keep in mind that this is also a heuristic.
>>
>>98249185
>>98249173
You could do a darker blue.
>>
>>98249185
Red
I didnt say 'redhead'
Red
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>>98249188
What?
>>
>>98249193
>>
Seen people in videos about transferring pots to droppers that you should use some kind of medium to make it flow better. Does that not fuck with the consistency of the paint in the end though?
>>
>>98249232
What a pain in the ass. Just keep your Citadel pots in the fridge or dry cabinet some shit
>>
>>98249232
Medium changes opacity, not consistency. Water changes both.
Just think of it as pre-thinning your paints.
>>
>>98249240
Nah it’s kind of a fun process for an afternoon
>>
>>98249204
In English, Doc
>>
>>98249275
When you usually fuck em in the pussy but you know when to switch to the ass.
>>
Got this guy missing an arm and a backpack. Never been a fan of overly tall bases but my friend made me a set when we were kids and I needed a 40mm.
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>>98248830
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>>98249296
Nice book!
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>>98249232
I just decant mine carefully into sropper bottles by pouring. The medium is probably useful if you're using a pipette, but you don't need it, imo. Only obe or two of the really thick citadel paints required special care, most of them pour fine.
>>
>>98248830
I love this. You better give it a great paintjob, anon.
>>
/wip/ what's a good place for some guns without hands I can kitbash into the hands of models? 40k shit and just general sci-fi/modern.
>>
>>98249413
Plastic Second Edition close combat and bolter/pauldron/knife/backpack sprues both have weapons sans hands. Now that I think of it, so do the First Edition ones.
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>>98249423
Problem is these are rare as hen's teeth now and people want like fifteen quid a sprue because "muh old" - do you know any newer plastic kits that have any?
>>
>>98249413
>>98249430
Catachan boxes. They are ancient, but GW still sells them.
Basic trooper box comes with 2 sprues.
Each has 1 Flamer and 4 lasguns without any hands attached.

Or: Catachan Command box:
1 of each pistol: Las- Plasma- and Boltpistol
1 of each special weapon: GL, Flammer, Melta, Plasma and a heavy flamer
Also 2 Lasguns, and some machetes.
>>
>>98249509
That's a great shout considering they're dogshit cheap, thank you anon. Perfectly what I was after too (bitz to kitbash with Stargrave/WGA).
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>>98249509
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>>98249513
Its a shame that the arms inside those boxes are so comically roided. They are pretty much unusable with the slightly smaller Stargrave figures, but the loose weapons will work for sure.
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>>98249519
I'm doing Chaos so I can just green stuff some 'torn cloth' around the balloon bicep and then paint it purply-fleshy so it looks like a fucked up mutation, desu.
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>>98249509
did that sprue come pre-dipped in nuln oil?
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>>98249533
That's just how old-ass GW sprue pics look, it's strange. I think it's either mold release or they intentionally 'guide coated' them with ink to show depth and detail in older printing formats and in their less-developed lighting setup.
>>
Is there a craftworld hand holding a knife like picrel? Or is my best bet to just sculpt it from this?
>>
anybody use ak gen 3 paints? i got a box of 4 and having a little trouble taming them. leaving a little streaky, so i figured shaking would help, but that just leaves it bubbling bad. i assume the paints are just thinner than my usual but even the air paints i use dont bubble this much
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>>98249538
The older plastic was lighter in color, and details would look like shit on a picture like this, thats why they coated it with a wash.

> I think it's either mold release
100% no.
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>>98249533
Have you ever seen the old catalogues? Lead/pewter minis had a wash so you could better see the detail on them
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>>98249592
i didn't know it was a wash, i thought they just messed with the camera.
>>
>>98249578
>but that just leaves it bubbling bad
What? I thought Vallejo is the only paint with bubbling issue?
>>
Should i buy Vallejo Game Air Silver or Vallejo True Metallic Metal Silver?
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>>98249618
thats what i also thought until i bought this. I assume its just a much thinner mix, but out of habit i shake my paints before using them so its a problem every time if youre retarded.
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>>98249635
Neither
Vallejo Metal Color duraluminium
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>>98249105
See with your eyes, not with your mouth.
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>>98249670
>Vallejo Metal Color duraluminium
But why? Silver is brighter than duraluminium, right?
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>>98249685
NTA, but what are you doing with it? I've got Vallejo game color silver and it's really bright. I've been using Vallejo aluminium more often now, it's a lot flatter. Vallejo silver seems more like a highlight color than something you'd put down as a base.
>>
>>98249578
What exact shades? I have plenty of AK 3rd gen but they all appear quite uniform from the bottle, except few light shades that required extra rough shaking but only at very first use.
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>>98249784
Just want to know the quality of Vallejo metal paint since i heard alot of people was saying Vallejo Air Silver is the best silver paint, and there are a lot of Vallejo metal paints. Model metal, Model Air metal, Game color metal, Game color air metal, Vallejo Metal color, Vallejo True Metallic Metal. Shit is confusing
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>>98249788
this set. all three blues had the issue.
if its just a first use issue, i'd be happy to hear that. this was just the first or second round of painting, just never seen it like this before (i am new to painting though)
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>>98249826
I haven't used Air silver myself, but with the True Metallic paints I find the pre-ready Airbrush paints are a little better for brushing than the regular base metallics. They just seem to flow a little better.

The Game Color Silver can be a little chunky, so if the difference is similar I imagine the Air Silver would be good. I would imagine that the Air Silver is just their regular Silver with a little extra thinner.
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>>98249582
Oh yeah you're right, I keep forgetting that the plastic was almost white back then- I should know this 'cos I keep noticing it when I rummage through my old bitz box. I'm just most used to the mid-2000s plastic that was closer to the current grey but more ... "poured" looking, if that makes sense? Like this Chaos Rhino bit.
>> I think it's either mold release
>100% no.
Yeah I was just talking out of my harris there because I had no idea. I do remember older GW sprues having issues with mould release though. People say "duh it never happened" but I do vividly remember a distinct oily film on sprues between like 2001~2008, especially the LOTR plastics since they were desperate to get that shit out the door and made thousands of em.
>>
What's make Vallejo TMM paints so expensive though?
>>
>>98249788
>>98249578
I've had AK paints bubble a bit when thinned but it never pops and creates the visible pockmark that Vallejo does. Blues I've found are very very thin out of the bottle though- I only really thin down my beloved Archaic Turquoise with what's on my brush unless I want extremely thin layers, since it's almost like a thick ink in some temperatures. I'd advise checking how they go without any thinning.
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>>98249925
compared to what?
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>>98249956
Their paints
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>>98249925
real metal flakes aren't cheap (assuming they don't use mica)
>>
This might be a really stupid question but with how thick Citadel paints are and how they often just naturally dry out and get harder to work with, any particularly deleterious reason to not just splash a bit of water in the pot and shake it up to improve consistency? Kinda pre thinning it and just helping with the workability out of the pot?
>>
>>98249964
1/3rd more expensive than regular vallejo paints at my local store. more expensive, but it's a premium product, not something you'd use all the time. if you don't want colored metallics, you don't have to get it.
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>>98249995
Nope, not really.
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>>98249578
They're all pretty streaky from my fairly limited experience (~12 paints). A few diamonds (warm grey and reddish grey are solid over... light grey primer) but most are 2-3 patient coats to get acceptable coverage and are prone to breaking when trying to wet blend. If you're used to something with more bite and opacity (like I am with AP) they can be frustrating at times.

I've not had any issues with bubbling more than other brands, less than some.
>>
>>98249635
Can't speak for the TMM versions but I've used VGC silver as nothing more than a highlight color, otherwise using VMet Duraluminum for basecoating.
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>>98248979
I watched this video and the end result looks kind of ass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOAmrte6Ug0
>>
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Villain for my witch hunters to hunt
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>>98250190
Nuka kitten's zaku is painted like a mini but in a style that looks much better than this imo.
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>>98250281
thats more like armor scale modelling than mini painting I think
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>>98244948
Finally done with the last of my bladeguard vets squad.
I've spent some time on this project and I wish I could take a better group pic than this, but it is what it is.
>>
>>98249995
Beyond VEEEEERY tentatively, maybe, in the long firm getting a bit of fustiness in the pot from whatever idle contaminants are in your tap water (all tap water has -something- in it, it's just benign) then probably not. Even that I'd imagine would take years and require you to unsettle the biocides that are in the paint anyway. I did have a homemade wash go wanky and moldy years ago after years in storage because it was mostly tap water, but again- that was mostly water vs. paint. I'd be more worried overall about fucking up the consistency myself, but that's just because I am a hammer-thumbed cocksucker and a half.
>>
>>98249989
>>98249925
Alcohol-based medium and real metallic flake. They're basically like smaller pots of their Metal Color Air line.
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>>98250399
>Alcohol-based medium
Wut? It literally says "water based acrylic" on the bottle. You must confuse it with their Liquid Metal line.
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>>98250559
Stinks like alcohol-base to me, so I just assumed.
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Making progress. I should subassembled this bitch.
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>>98250340
I love your Black Templars, anon. I want to be able to paint as well as you, and to be as prolific as you ... real life just seems to get in the way all too often!
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Again - so what does it indicate when airbrush paint spray visibly tiny dots around target area like with this light blue on darker one here?
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>>98249900
Well, I just recall that many AK paints I was using required really hard shaking and still, first few drops contained something thick and glue-like but it was only first time problem. I assume that something similar could be present here.
>>
>>98250608
It could be that you're short on pressure to break up the paint droplets with. Or a combination of the two.
Or you're short on thinner so the droplets are a bit too tough to break up.
Considering the somewhat gritty seeming surface I wonder if your paint might not also have half dried in the air on its way to the model. Move in closer/add thinner/add retarder/switch to a slower drying thinner. This is probably the greater of your problems.
>>
>>98250608
i think it's either not enough thinner, or not enough psi. what paints, what thinner, what PSI, what airbrush?
>>
>>98250670
>>98250653
Odd, I thinned it quite good (3:1 thinner:paint ratio), 1 bar pressure as recommended by AK, AK 3rd gen acrylics, around 10cm away from model.
>>
Oh and mix it outside of cup now and use AK dedicated thinner with flow improver (last time when I tried using Vallejo ones with AK, they started to react and I shit you not).
>>
>>98250340
Impressive job. Are those shields 3d prints?
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tried freehanding a small eye to add a bit of Tzeentch feel to the forgefiend
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>>98250786
That looks great
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>>98250608
there's a hair on the top shoulder
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>>98250698
15 PSI seems a little low, have you tried a little higher? I use 30-35 PSI for primer and 20-25 psi for regular paints. I had similar issues with primers when I forget to bump the PSI up for them.

the users guide that came with my airbrush says that sputtering like that is caused by a dirty airbrush, too low pressure or too little thinning. you seem to be thinning it enough. have you taken out the needle to clean it? have you taken off the cap and made sure there's no dried paint on the inside of the cap? that could affect the spray pattern. you could also try upping the pressure.
>>
>>98250786
fuckin awesome anon, love it
>>
>>98250786
Looks really cool anon
>>
>>98250706
How did the Vallejo thinners react to Ak paints?
>>
>>98250807
It's actually not hair but miscast I forgot to remove. Overall it's dreaded Siocast that is annoying to deal with as it cannot be cleaned like plastic or metal with back blade movement (it behave like rubber at such moment).

>>98250808
Maybe that pressure is really too low but then again, AK recommend that value. With such high thinning I wanted to avoid drowning with paint, too. Could be indeed dirty as well since I was using white and dark blue before and there is always some leftover (funny enough, those Vallejo new formula I despise with brush actually works nicely with airbrush while AK that I find very useful with brush keep causing me problems with airbrush. Wish I could just use same paint to both).
>>
>>98250946
By making them turn to rubber and dry around needle, quickly jamming airbrush. I know what people say, that they mix both without issues but I describe what I see - thinning AK with just demineralised water removed this issue (it would still dry but on the tip and thus easy to clean every few minutes, flushing was also easier) so it was definitely some reaction between both.
>>
>>98249100
I just thought it was weird.
I got a big bottle of Medea airbrush cleaner and I’m hoping that will be enough to clean my airbrush to restore it to hopefully “near factory new” condition.
Then I’ll follow some tutorials by a channel called “the art workshop” to manage an airbrush.
>>98249180
I haven’t but I’ve looked at gaahleri’s compact compressors but I’m a bit iffy if they’re genuinely good tools or a rebranded Chinese mass produced product.
I think iwata’s neo airbrushes are too.
>>
>>98250955
correct pressure depends on a lot of factors like needle size and how thin your paint is. don't think that there is some hard rule that you have to stick to and aren't allowed to change. you should always test how something is spraying on a piece of paper or something before you put it on something for real.
>>
What’s a good compact quiet compressor for my hobby space?
If a truly silent one isn’t possible how about one that is the most quiet and useful for miniature priming and varnishing pressures?
>>
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>>98250792
>>98250902
>>98250813
Thanks guys, I'm actually kinda surprised I didn't fuck it up. Having a decent reference image really does help
>>
>>98251047
Yeah references are important and underutilized by mini painters imo.
You're welcome.
>>
>>98245987
Siegestudios are complete fucking charlatans. They just say shit they don't understand at all. Complete lack of mental rigour.

Watch their video with the guy who famously doesn't use wet palettes (Tommy something, maybe?) and listen to their struggle-ass claims about what a wet palette does. I believe they eventually settle on the position that it allows ZERO moisture through the paper membrane but the water below has a beneficial cooling effect on the paint? Just total fucking nonsense, sheer reality denial, it's impossible to understand how people with hundreds of hours using wet palettes could find themselves saying such audaciously stupid shit
>>
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WIP of a vindicator with a marble effect.
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WIP gobs
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>>98251186
Daw, what are these from?
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>>98251025
I've seen a lot of good reviews for california air tools silent compressors
>>
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>>98248433
Get one of those gold metallic pens and use white spirits to clean up the brush and thin it just a bit. They are very shiney.
>>
>>98251186
painting them for a frostgrave warband
but they're made for OPR's Age of Fantasy Skirmish
>>
>>98251569
I recognize the rider with the big cloud strife sword. Unless she took the sword from her, that's Cherry, the Goblin Knight.
>>
>>98250603
Much appreciated man. Looking forward to see your bladeguards finished as well! They take a while to paint, but they are some of my favourite sculpts.

>>98250781
Thank you. No, they are the standard bladeguard shields, I just sanded off the details, same for the imperialis on the chestplates

>>98250786
Looks great
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Goblin!
Maybe finishing her tonight.
>>
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>>98251613
I love the look of the models too, but man... there is a lot of fiddly stuff to paint!

The unpainted lad laying on my palette paper is Sergeant Metaurus from the Wardens of Ultramar kit. If you switch out some of the bitz, he'll make a fine Blood Angels Bladeguard Sergeant.
>>
>>98251631
>there is a lot of fiddly stuff to paint
Yeah indeed.
I wanted a cool lieutenant for my bladeguards and considered stripping and repainting the bladeguard captain I did 2 years ago to fit more my current style...but then I remember how full of details that thing is, and how long it took me to paint it, and kinda discarded that idea.

Good luck with Metaurus, luckily he doesn't seem to be covered in ultimas everywhere, should be an easy conversion.
>>
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>>98251764
>I wanted a cool lieutenant for my bladeguards
The Bladeguard Lieutenant from Indomitus was an obvious choice for me. He has a tabard just like the BGVs - something the other lieutenants lack.

That being said, I have the Blood Angels' Lieutenant Tolmeron model, as well as a truckload of all the other Primaris Lieutenants GW has been foisting on us since 8th Edition. All I really need to do is find a way to give him a storm shield, and he could take command.
>>
>>98251607
i recognize that bulge aura
its not cherry, she might have just stolen it lol she does have two though

>>98251628
goblin. she looks great, the cartoon shading is really nice, the style im striving for. i dont love ultra smooth blending, the stark constrast looks great, especially on the table top
>>
>>98251890
It's definitely the same sword sculpt, but yeah the goblin herself doesn't look like her. TGM just re-using assets.
>>
>>98251916
he reuses a lot. the other goblin posted uses the same sculpt for the crossbow.
Im not against it per say, even connects minis across the range. but in some cases.
unless your head canon is cherry broke into the riders hideout to steal one of the captain's spare swords
>>
>>98251916
also, i do love tgm, but damn i really hate his bases. thin and flat just arent great for playing on anything thats not flat grid
>>
File: 1782216728957721.jpg (3.53 MB, 4800x3200)
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>>98248830
As a Heresy Dark Angel player, I approve of this wholeheartedly!

If you're open to a suggestion though, I would add a support bracket to the gun. Both for realism and for practicality's sake. A big chuck of resin like that will be heavy as fuck and will be putting a lot of stress on the connection points.
Orange in pic related would help mitigate that by keeping the tip supported.
>>
how do I make dead bodies
do i just buy them on etsy or what
>>
>>98252083
This is vague. What do you want? A roughly human shaped corpse bag? A sprawled out victim? Something with organs hanging out? You can make a lot with greenstuff. You just sculpt it. But that is "draw the rest of the owl" levels of advice.
>>
For those that store their water tight palettes in the fridge, how long will the paint be good on them? I planned on continuing on painting from yesterday but Skitarii today.
>>
>>98252135
fuk the swededs, 15 dollars is too many for one toaster
youre safe for 48, will need a little mix but itll be fine
>>
File: PXL_20260508_025922686.jpg (3.68 MB, 3472x4624)
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Been trying out Vallejo's True Metallics. The shades are very fucking strong so water them down.
>>
>>98251146
That's really neat.
>>
Is this doing the thing yet?

Ignore the texture, it’s a test model and I’ve painted over the shield a lot
>>
>>98252449
getting there but still kinda looks like a regular yellow, I think you need to deepen the shadows and make it warmer
>>
>>98252212
Look no different than normal acrylic metal paint, and not as smooth as lacquer metal
>>
>>98252449
it looks like yellow paint. what are you trying to accomplish with this that you can't achieve with metallic paint?
>>
>>98252577
>this shit again
next time can it be my turn to post the "don't paint shadows and highlights" bait?
>>
>98252593
Don't respond to the obvious bait, please.
>>
>>98252490
That helped a bit I think. Passes the squint test at least.
>>
>>98251146
whats process? looks good.
>>
>>98252744
You got a reference?
>>
>>98253054
No, I couldn't find one.
>>
>>98252744
Could use a counter reflection
>>
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>>98253068
It doesn't have to be the exact same object to be useful. Also, I advise building a little library of references, comes in handy.
>>
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>>98253068
>>98253083 is right, btw.
Look at this example, the reflective light helps sell it.
>>
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>>98251146
looks like a soapdish you would pick up -- and then put back -- at the dollar store. sorry for your loss of time
>>
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I'm painting some of the new chaos marauders from Old World, but Nurgle themed.

The primary color will be varying shades of muted and forest greens. The secondary colors are browns, grays, warm and faded reds, and orange-yellows.

I prime all my models black because I like layering up from dark colors, so what would be a good base coat color that can speed up all my brush painting?
Dark green? khaki? dare I say, purple?
>>
>>98253356
Purple is always a good choice.
A very dark red would work too.
>>
>>98245841
To protect brush tip always paint with a backwards stroke approaching at a slight angle, never stabbing and wash brushes same. Never allow paint to pass 1 third of hairs, if it does just rinse and wipe on moist kitchen sponge to clean. >>98245897 brushes should always stay moist while painting, brushing across the kitchen sponge is perfect amount of moisture for most steps in painting so it's good to have right by you

>>98248661 >>98248700
He cute
>>98251628
She cute

>>98245158
Looks good, nice color choices
>>
>>98253356
I'd use a medium grey adding a cool green to it as needed, green and grey work well together
>>
>>98252274
>>98252862
Thanks.
This was done with oil paints, but regular acrylics would work as well. I started with a very dark blue, and then dabbed brighter and brighter green over it. Then I added the lines with a semi transparent and thinned down white. Most important were the smaller lines, creating a subtle scratching effect. I chose a particular direction for the veins, but adeed some lines from other directions too to break everything up. Lastly I added the bigger lines, again not completely opaque, and blended them a bit in some spots to make them feel more natural.
I do have to say that I built up too much of a texture, I hope it won't bee seen as a bad thing.
>>
>>98253244
big fan of the space crusade chaos dreadnaught. looks like a 3d print, whats the file?
>>
>>98252146
Did you have a stroke writing this? I think you're saying 48 hours?
>>
>>98252135
why would you need to store a wet palette and in the fridge of all the places
i keep my brushes in the freezer
>>
>>98245383
Looks fine
>>
>>98246065
No, hundreds of golden demon and crystal brush winners have done that, but wip will tell you that you need to buy some marked up slop gizmo
>>
>>98248623
yeah scale model kits are fucking awesome these days
>>
>>98248813
Damn
what's a good kit to buy to experience this?
>>
>>98253775
I mean, you can just buy the kit in the picture, the RG Astray. All the RGs have these kinds of parts, though the modern kits have fewer of them.
I know the PGU RX-78-2 also has parts like this, and it's one of the greatest kits Bandai has ever produced, though it has a pricetag to match.
>>
>>98253802
>>98253775
https://www.dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg19/rg19_p.htm
>>
>>98253103
references like this are misleading. the dark shades that you see are actually reflections of dark objects behind the camera taking the picture.
>>
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>>98253994
>nooo your references must only depict the object in an infinite void with a single light source
get a load of this retard
>>
>>98253318
Those look marbly so I'm pretty happy to hear you say that
>>
>>98254002
the point is you shouldn't think reflections work a certain way just because it looked that way in a picture you saw
>>
File: 20260624_165633.jpg (1.08 MB, 2006x1496)
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rhino done
also rulebook and wargear book done
>>
File: PXL_20260624_135653957.jpg (2.66 MB, 4080x3072)
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Please clap
>>
>>98253994
Isn't the whole point of styles like NMM that you can create lighting that mimics the imagined environment of the mini, with the flashes of weapon discharge or sparks of clashing metal, and the dark shapes of close up combatants?
>>
>>98254093
That leather bag on the horse looks really good. I don't know what the green fellows are but they look suitable grimy and gross, so good job.
>>
>>98254077
Funnest version of Warhammer 40,000 to date.
>>
>>98254039
That doesn't make it misleading. You always have to keep the differences between the reference and what you're trying to achieve in mind. The best would be finding a "gold" object (like a sports trophy or something) and light it in a way you like.
>>
>>98254219
god I need a Johnny so badly its unreal.
>>
>>98254219
im really looking forward to it
something really familiar about that very cool picture
>>
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Fairly early build wip and hes still covered in spruegates, but I had to get rid of the bosses tiny head and baby hands.
>>
>>98254298
Big improvement imo.
>>
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>>98254310
Thanks lad, it was a weird design decision to make all the hands and shit tiny, the warbosses was so small I might end up stealing his horns and sticking it on a boyz body
>>
>>98254251
>god I need a Johnny so badly its unreal.
Know anybody with a 3D printer?
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvV0J4UWxTYkIjR1paOFgteWQtV2E1UGl3SjE4UHlVX0wxOFpOZllyWVhKckhWM25lSk1odw==
>>
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>>98254499
I'm not smart and don't know where to use these links

also squig rider I'm working on
>>
>>98254521
Base 68(-4) decode
>>
>>98254093
Those new pestigors are probably the best AoS minis they did so far.

Nice paintjobs you did there too
>>
>>98254521
>I'm not smart and don't know where to use these links
It's a scheme that started in some other boards that share copyrighted materials.
>>
>dW0gSSBjYW4ndCBqdXN0IHBhc3RlIHRoZSBsaW5rIEkgaGF2ZSB0byB1c2Ugc3VwZXIgc2Vrcml0IGVuY29kaW5nIGhhY2tlciBudW1iZXJzIHRoYXQgYW55b25lIHdpdGggZ29vZ2xlIGNhbiBkZWNvZGU=
what's the fucking point
>>
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>>98254922
>>
>>98254922
>what's the fucking point
We're making an effort to safeguard threads against bots or scripts that are looking to harvest URLs in an automated fashion. This is not obviously a URL; it looks just like a string of meaningless characters that could be - if you didn't know any better - some kind of infohash, part of a MEGA address, or a magnet link for torrents.
>>
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Okay, tried that Vallejo "true metal metallic", copper and "obsidian black" and they are indeed very shiny but not as nice in work as I hoped, not flowing as good as their "Metal Color" line, even airbrush variant. Also, "obsidian black" is not as dark as I hoped, it's actually on par with "magnesium" and "steel" from Metal Color. Don't mind the surface here, it's that rough on its own. But at least copper is rich and gold as well. Maybe that's just me but they also seems to dry pretty quickly so might be more suitable for airbrush usage.
>>
File: emoji-emoji-butt.gif (2.64 MB, 498x280)
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>>98254093
>>
>>98254994
what colour was your undercoat?
>>
>>98254499
will i be shunned if i enlarge him by 20% or so
>>
>>98255028
Black, maybe it got some spray from that blue but not much.
>>
>>98255037
>will i be shunned if i enlarge him by 20% or so
If you do, and you post him here with a halfway decent paint job, he'll still end up in the collage.
>>
>>98254994
I love that Infinity is so obviously "Untitled Masamune Shirow Work: The Game".
>>
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>>98255096
Can my shitty "it's pikachu" johnny go in the collage? Preferably next to the "who's that space marine" johnny.
I understand if there's a barrier to entry though, I made this one particularly low-quality on purpose
>>
>>98255114
I miss when it was even more like that, it's drifted a little too far into genericness in the last couple editions
>>
How do I get smooth blends on white armor?
>>
>>98255131
>I understand if there's a barrier to entry though
There is, but in 11th Edition, barriers are classified as "Light" terrain that only provides cover. All models can move both horizontally and vertically through such terrain features.
>>
>>98255177
Airbrush.
>>
>>98254948
blows my mind these people still dont get it. its not sekret club shit, the internet is chock full of bots scraping for everything. takes 2 seconds to decode, links are less likely to get pulled down early and just cause issues
>>
>>98255349
I was just talking to a coworker about a similar "Security Theatre" practice we have here at my company.

It's like the TSA checks for the airlines: they have yet to stop any terrorist attacks by doing it, and have inconvenienced millions upon millions of travelers, but the alternative has the potential to be a lot worse than waiting an extra half-an-hour to board a plane.

We don't even know that anybody is looking at /tg/, but just in case they are...
>>
>>98255401
we...we do know companies are looking at tg
post any gw model rip and see how long it stays up. /3dpg/ has it in their OP, because gw shuts down the links pretty fast.
a tiny bit of obscuring can fuck with a bot, and if a bot doesn't flag it, nobody is going to look.
>>
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Okay, that's it for today, fixing blue and applying washes tomorrow.

Phone camera loves to accentuate rough surface, it seems...
>>
File: frostyStart.png (1.88 MB, 1737x1289)
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Start of Frostgrave warband. Progress is slow
>>
>>98253709
>i keep my brushes in the freezer
Interesting
>>
New thread:

>>98255767
>>98255767
>>98255767
>>
>>98254108
that's the idea but minis that actually do that are like 1% of the nmm uses. most of the time it's just people copying references without paying attention to the environment the photo was taken in, or worse just copying another painted miniature.

>>98254233
I guarantee that plenty of people will look at that picture and walk away with the idea that shiny bronze should have gray brown shading on it
>>
are there any little tricks to getting a drybrush on smaller, harder to reach areas? trying to hit parts of the terrain on my underworlds model's base but obviously the model is in the way of a lot of the nooks and crannies
>>
>>98255401
not sure the government eroding your freedoms through a fearmongering campaign is quite the 1:1 analogy to a grassroots collaboration in the effort to avoid scraper bots and corporate overlords from breaking up freedom of information



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