>>98391138
thank you as always, baker-sama

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Evil, spikey horses. Lots of 'em.

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The one time i don't post pictures, the next thread is a mosaic.

Anyways, painted 12 more dwarfs.

>>98391717
Are the horses evil? Like the rape horse in berserk?

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Working on some orks for a test scheme, I like the way armour is turning out but the skin needs some refinement. Maybe a darker green for the undercoat. I'm liking how simple they are to paint compared to my Templars and EC, very fun. btw anyone got a guide for painting hot rod flames, finding mine are coming out a bit naff.

>>98391138
that KoS is sweet

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>>98376240
Dude I am so glad that you are still alive. I have the white dwarf where your sister of battle showed up.
I sent you a dm on Insta but you never replied nor updated so I feared the worst. I wanted to ask you what is the paint recipe that you use for painting faces, methos, base coat, paints etc.. I want to paint some but I have been having trouble with the colors. recently I picked some scale 75 but citadel is my comfort zone and I have been getting AK too.

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>>98391113
>emphasizing contrast through temperature
I have been dipping my toes in that with my sister army but my only understanding of the theory for that is "blue=cold, red=warm"
I'm painting a sister right now and will try and really push the cool tones. It just feels more of the same and I am not making it look as good as it can be.
>>98391145
>have you tried meeting people in person at your LGS whose paint jobs you admire
I used to for awhile and stopped because of the pandemic shutdowns. I have been trying to convince myself to go back for awhile now but work and life just bogs me down too much to bother. That's not to say I won't, I just need to manage my time better.

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>>98391829
Sorry I missed your message. I've really just kind of gave up on social media lol. I might get back to posting stuff again but it's been a busy few years.
How I was taught to do faces, especially Caucasian ones is to shade with "purple" and you have more control with this if you mix red and blue then add your midtone. The paints I used are called Legendary Paints made by a local guy so that might be out of the question.
So just for the face, I start with the shade then move to my base tone then highlights. For the face you posted my highlights leaned more to a white that is similar in colour to pallid wych flesh. However, I have gotten into painting eyes (and the skin around them) before anything else on the face. It just makes it less painful if I screw up too much and need to reset.
Women's faces particularly (especially with GW sculpts) are a challenge because if you shade the recesses too dark you end up with a face that looks more masculine. The darkest areas should always be areas hidden by hair and areas to establish shapes, like under the nose and brows. If I have a sculpt that is a screaming face I'll ignore the crevices that form between the mouth and the cheeks and leave it as the midtone.
Really just play around with how you shade faces. You can add more red or blue to the mix if you are aiming for a paler or rosey look.
Picrel for example I used a little bit more red and even glazed it between the shade and midtone to give more life to the skin.
Sorry if that's not helpful, I'm bad at explaining.
>>98391780
Your colours are nice but yeah, the green you have for your orks should be more of a highlight and not your midtone. Get some dark green contrast paint and water it down then apply it like a wash section by second. You can use a regular dark green paint for this as well, just thin it down a lot more until it's translucent. You can clean up with the green you are using now if you end up going too dark.

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>>98391732
>The one time i don't post pictures, the next thread is a mosaic.
Sorry, anon. Sometimes work and life get in the way and we need a new thread without one. Those are some nice dwarfs, though.

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>>98392113
Oh no worries, that was more a reminder for myself to post more pics than a complaint about the anon(s) that start these generals.
I have nothing but praise for you. This place actually keeps me motivated to paint, for the past 40 days or so i have painted literally every day, and the results definitely show.

Currently working on the next batch. I have a few loose ends (an handful of half built ugly as fuck 6.5th ed command figures) and 20ish more dwarfs from Skull pass. After that i have 98 EM4 dwarfs primed, based and partially basecoated that I'm both dreading and looking forward to.

Ideally i should finish the skull pass ones by september and the EM4 clones should be done, if not by NYE, then by mid february at the latest.

For next year I want to focus on artillery (i have something like 85 crew members already painted and only 8 or 9 war machines done) and characters.

I don't like planning too far in advance but I'd like to have my collection of 2200+ dwarfs at least 80% done by the end of 2030.

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Captain's on the final stretch, just needs varnish and enamels and basing and he's done

No pics but an update on the oil kommandos. They're on their bases and the shadows and weathering for the bases are done and dry. Need to go back and feather out some of the shadows and weathering that are too heavy, then I can paint the rims black and do a final pass of matte varnish with the airbrush to lock everything in and the project will finally be complete. Want to get it done but its been a rough few weeks keeping me from doing much.

>>98391832
Well, it's that applying a warm light / cool shadow and vice versa will often help you push contrast without affecting value so much. A red or yellow can be cool, but by it's relationship to the other colors. The same way a color beside grey will look more saturated.
Adding temperature to create contrast in addition to value, especially when you're painting something with a narrow value range to begin with like black or white will help you keep it reading as the appropriate color you're going for.

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>>98391967
I see. I am gonna be honest with you, when it comes to the purple base, green and adding blue and red I am absolutely lost. I am gonna need to enter some classes or something lol.

The tip of painting the eyes first... its a very god damn idea man. At some point I even tought about just using decals like the jp's use for garage kits. But in my instance its not very possible since middle earth its a way smaller scale.

I ask for help because I am trying to achieve this pinkish skin color to paint precisely this model. I know the movie is nothing to write home about but I want to make the miniature justice and fulfill my vision for the 90's fantasy animation ova's. Like lodoss war etc. I also like the idea of adding white to make reflections on the skin and make it look more soft, I have seen some japanese using it on twitter. I'll post another example later. But please give me your suggestion on how would you do hera's skin/face.

plzplz

>>98392287
GW may have sculpted her as a troon but none of those got it right, her canon outfit is a wedding dress and she's not a warrior.

>>98392296
Well she knows how to defend herself and how to stick the sword on bastards at least. I like this outfit because she looks like Lightning from Final fantasy and I want to get the challenge of actually making the miniature look good with sheer painting.

>>98392307
I'll admit it was a long time ago that I read any of the LOTR/Hobbit/Silmarillion but I recall her just being a girl in a dress, I don't recall combat.
I did watch the animated slopfest, intentionally to be angry with it, and the whole thing is a fucking joke.

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>>98391138
Got bored of doing warhammer stuff, so I decided to do a whimsical frog instead. Had fun stepping away from my comfort zone with this one.

>>98392364
the movie its a joke indeed, it could had been great had they handed the script job to the japanese if you ask me. Hera is not annoying nor a boss girl and its pretty to look at so at least that is a saving grace. Wulf however is a fucking retard.

In the books Hera doesnt even have a name.

>>98391967
If you're a purple enjoyer, I recommend trying ionic smart color paints. The essential black tones set of 6: every paint in that set is purple-tinted black's and grey's. A lot of good colours in that range.

>>98391138
I am once again asking for the latest Stahly paint chart.
Is it in the megas and I somehow kept missing it?

What are the closest artist acrylic inks to the original Citadel inks? Or failing that are the Coat D'arms inks truly accurate to original GW citadel inks so I can have some references for comparison?

As weird as it is to say I've been feeling a DIY itch so I'm wonder if there is a recipe that exists to make a "wash medium" that one just mixes with acrylic inks to make a pretty low staining but high recess and raised area detail shading wash. Anybody know of this?

>>98392464
never saw the japanese version and I'll take you on the book, contrary to regular anon behaviour I'm not going to open up a wiki on the next tab and pretend to be a credentialed expert on the subject.

>>98392515
also the whole swamp scene its disgusting and retarded, I am pretty sure someone at Peter Jackson's script department its a vore sicko.

>>98392287
I'll use GW paints and you can try and find the equivalent.
Also, practice a bunch on spare heads until you get comfortable for your main piece.
Your midtone can be wraithbone and your highlights should be something like Pallid Wych Flesh, I would even mix white in for the later stages like the tip of the nose, cheek bones, etc.
Your darkest shades I would try and aim for something like Knight-Questor Flesh, with light shading of Lugganath Orange to that midtone. The trick is for your that midshade to be subtle enough to read the colour but not look like heavy makeup.
Don't try and replicate the GW art it's a good example of what I was talking about going too dark with shades on the face itself. Too much shading on the forehead when contrasted with the highlights on the brow and side ridges has given her a gaunt look. The dark shade under her eyes has given her bags. Don't do that unless you want the tired look she has. Her cheeks are done well, this is were you will be doing most of your shading to establish the face shape.
Also use black to paint the eye sockets to give it that eyeliner look.
I hope my rambling helps. If I had a head on me right now I would try and paint one quick to give an example. Maybe later.
>>98392206
I think I understand what you mean. I'm not sure what I could use to push warmth in my violet shades seeing as I'm going pure black in the darkest areas. But maybe I can try something for her robes. Thanks
>>98392508
I'll look into them, thanks!

>>98392445
awesome

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>>98392445
Oh that looks lovely, must have been a joy to paint.

>>98392543
this must be something I have edited out of my memory.

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>>98392574
>I hope my rambling helps. If I had a head on me right now I would try and paint one quick to give an example. Maybe later. Still it is very new too me. I was going to try to use Scale 75 velvet skin paint set after seeing the japanese results. I am posting an example of what I saw.

yeah! plz show one later. This was very interesting, I will begin practicing it but right now I need to finish a war priest on horse or I'll just never get it done.

>>98392287
if you want it to look like the bottom left figurine those aren't done like warhams with shades and highlights. the skin color is built up from a completely white base with layers of transparent red and maybe orange over it.
https://youtu.be/CnnB1a1C2OE?t=1275

even if you don't want to do it that way I still wouldn't do it the gw way because it always ends up looking bogged and manly.

>>98392737
>>98392737
>even if you don't want to do it that way I still wouldn't do it the gw way because it always ends up looking bogged and manly.
hell nah I aint doing it like GW. I do however want to practice it to enter it into Golden Daemon.
I wonder what is that plastic that she is placing on her eyes? It would be great to do it like that but the figure of middle earth its just way to small you know. I am gonna have to go gor it with brush.
I do want to give slight shades on the cheeks since it will be a competition piece. Another way that I tought about placing the lights and shadows its like the image from bottom right. Top left is a good tone however.


>>98392730
this was done with scale 75 by a japanece lad, ZERO I think thats how he goes.

Not gonna lie, now I want to paint a garage kit. I'll do it after whats on the list.

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>>98392602
>>98392576
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
By the way, here's the project that pushed me to whimsy.

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>>98392820
I just changed the eyes and the color of the gem on the sword. This dude didn't use any black or shade paints (save for the writing on the banner), and I wanted to go for a true metallic metal.

>>98392789
the green stuff is masking fluid to cover eyes first from the skin tone and then from the matte clear. anyway trying to do the shade and highlight thing looks like shit on female faces every time. just do the skin in one shade, the eyes, eyebrows, lips, and put a drop of wash in the ears and stop. shade just draws attention to the ugly sculpt and highlights end up looking like clown makeup.

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>>98392833
Yes,the sides are too flat so it would require a lot of imagination on how to paint draw the cheeks and jaw. This is an attempt that I did last year and remarks where that she looked like carmen electra or melania trump. It was interesting.
I bought another Hera so I have technically two to spare. One I'll try to do like sob anon and the other maybe like zero did here.>>98392730

>>98392820
I love it. The materials are distinct but overall harmonious.

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Some progress on the skin.

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I was trying to figure out something special to do for the Novamarine captain's head there buy I couldn't think of anything. Should I just do halvies like the armor? Maybe try out Black Legion Anon's recepie?

>>98392901
would some ultra-fine tip markers be able to do eyelashes/liner, or is that tech heresy?

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Reposting from the previous thread. Today I'll finally glue them to their bases. Wasn't happy with my attempts of doing segmented neck plates yesterday, I think I'll just use microbeads to make studs on the necks. Another idea I had yesterday was to make give them spiked codpieces, but it might be in too bad taste.

>>98392957
I love these voldo-ass motherfuckers,

>>98393001
He was my favorite, crab walk all over people and just be ridiculous.

>>98392931
anything that works, if it works I would.

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>>98392296
>Heras face
Might just be your average 'eavy metal fuckery.

>>98393024
it would need to be a ridiculously fine line, and I'd hate for anon to spoil good work over my bad advice, so maybe an ultra-fine brush is safer for the control.

>Sororitas using the edge of her power sword to apply eye liner

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>>98392287
>>98392730
I actually found a sister head in my kit and tried to make a tutorial on the quick. I used colours I felt matched what you are trying to go for with the lotr girl.
Now here is where I cope and say I rushed through this just to get my basic process across and that's why it looks ass, especially how thick the black is around the eyes. But an attempt was made, I hope it helps.

>>98393060
Really good tutorial. Looks like you picked up some texture when you painted the basecoat?

>>98393070
Yeah, I rushed the priming. As soon as I saw the pic I debated on stripping and restarting but said screw it.
Really the tutorial just comes down to "do what I did but a lot better" lol

>>98393060
"trust the process" type shit

>>98390364
thank you anon

>>98390391
probably the last word I would have chosen to describe it, whats funny about it?

>>98390434
If i remember well its from Marauder Miniatures, its an old one

>>98393100
Making this was an extremely humbling experience because I knew I was a messy painter but had no clue just how bad I was.

>>98391732
i like your style but i dont think it really works with those weapons
now they look more like scythes or something

>>98392826
You should do a little more highlighting on the horse hair but I like what you've done so far.

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>>98393060
Sob anon thank you... Seriously this is the potatie guide that I needed as groundwork on how to tackle it.
>>98393087
yeah I noticed it as well lol. but it doesnt matter, it got the message and tutorial done damn well!

Let me show you the best female mini that I have painted, I did this mini like in 2011 iirc. with the old citadel range.

How would I go about getting my minis in White Dwarf? I assume I just send it to them, but are they particularly choosy when it comes to what's included?
>>98391138
Thank you, Baker-san.
Last thread went quick it seems.

>>98393038
The sculptors must fucking hate their painting team. It took 'Eavy Metal three decades to start painting any nice faces, and the majority of them are still offputting.

>>98393274
To be fair LotR minis are a smaller scale than warhammer ones and are noticeably harder to paint

>>98392287
>Why no anime face in realistic scale?
Boy, are you a dumb fucking nigger.

>>98393060
why does she look like she is made of cottage cheese?

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Finally finished
Very happy with how it turned out
Would like to thank WIP for the feedback that helped me

>>98392445
He cute.

>>98393190
Surprised you needed a tutorial dude, that looks fine as hell.
>>98393335
Didn't shake the primer enough, sprayed it in a very humid area, rushed putting it on. Besides over spraying I did everything wrong.

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>>98393271
Your pictures need to follow their guidelines - be on a white background and taken from a particular angle. They'll send you a guide if what you provide does not meet the criteria. Picrel is what works not to brag but it's actually featured in this months WD :^)

>>98393271
wait what do they still print white dwarf
is it any good

>>98393652
Nah, it's shit. Though it still must be nice to have a mini featured in the "official" warhammer magazine

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Painting up my floating tumour, should I do some stronger highlights on the skin to make it stand out more?

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i'm blue in aberdeen i will die

>>98393680
very nice
As for the highlights, I usually try to think of at what distance do I want this to look good. If its farther away, like 2 or 3 feet Ill bring up the highlights to make it more distinctive. If its a model that I want to look great on my desk or shelf I'll lay off the highlights a bit so it looks more natural and/or realistic. So for yours it looks great up close, but if you want it to stand out a bit on the table I'd bring up the highlights a tad. Just my 2 cents tho.

>>98393749
What's your source for the fists pauldrons? Do you print them?

>>98393150
Thank you for the feedback.
I'm currently out of miners; but I'll keep it mind for when i get to the next one.

>>98391379
love me some big walker bois
even if they are traitor scum

>>98393817
they're from the imperial fists upgrade sprue

>>98393931
I never realised there was such a thing.

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>>98393931
>>98393976
>online store
>laugh at stupid stuff
>buy paints
>paints arrive next week
>receit is 30 euros over
>wtf
>accidentally put imperial fists primaris upgrade sprue into my cart and even paid for it
store got the last laugh afterall

>>98394005
You should really stop drinking, anon.

>see a new mini
>WOW I want to paint that
>see a new mini
>WOW I want to paint that
How the fuck am I supposed to focus on one project at a time to actually get an army done?

>>98394273
you dont, you MUST consoom new product

>>98394273
Stop going to places where you see new minis

>>98394285
>>98394290
nta, what if I 3d print all my stuff?
I've honestly just given up, so I have 4 or 5 different armies in various stages of completion

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Did the base yesterday and took photos today.

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Free-handed Saint George slaying the dragon.

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>>98394311
do this simple trick to stop the vile devils machine from tempting you with it's sweet noxious fumes

>>98394273
>>98394311
answer to both of these is to be a grognard and prefer quality over quantity
and yes there are really awesome new models but there are also really shitty ones

>>98394311
Stop going to places where you see new stuff to print
Unplug your printer and put it in a closet

>>98394354
>>98394357
Very nice, I really like the texture on the gambesons and the arrow fletching

>>98394472
I guarantee you have shit taste

>>98394311
It's fine, stop listening to no-joy fags and that includes the one inside your head. As long as you are actually doing the hobby, that is working on models you print, it's fine.

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>>98394487

>>98394357
i am eternally impressed by free hand fags
very nice anon

>>98393680
you should make it look more slimy

>>98393754
Cheers, i'll get the base done and see how it looks
>>98395319
I was thinking of making it look more slimy towards the bottom, like its run down from the top

>>98391967
That is one agitated sister.
Really nice face, anon.

>>98391780
yikes

>>98391379
Nice take on the grey-green

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First take on the head, I'd like for the upper jaw to open, but can't seem to get it right yet. The top of the head should also be a bit sharper.

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>>98395756

Here's an image of the separate head. I think I'll glue a plastic spike on the bottom to be a lower jaw once it has cured tomorrow. Maybe some rivets too.

>>98392445
He cute!
>>98392820
Really nice
>>98392924
Whip it. Whip it good.
>>98393358
Nice!
>>98393629
Perfect reds
>>98393680
As arnold said, its not a toomur!
>>98393749
Thats... Really blue
>>98394354
Excellent
>>98394357
Next time paint a matching finger ring with the same picture on the surface of the ring

>>98395756
>>98395821
are you the anon that did those incredible tits in green stuff?

>>98395908

No, he is a much more talented sculptor than I am.

>>98395922
ah
well you might be able to help me still, he with one eye is king in the land of the blind and all. What are the names/types of tools to use for sculpting and molding green stuff? Can you just use clay sculpting stuff or is there tools that are better for the job since we're dealing with tiny little details?

>>98395944

I use AK's silicone brushes and some dentists tools. Keep them wet while working. Some people also wear nitrile gloves while working with green stuff. For me, they limit hand dexterity so I don't use them. I probably should.

>>98395966
thanks!

>>98395944
Look up green stuff and milliput sculpting on youtube. Lots of tutorials covering basics. Essentially green stuff has yellow and blue strips laying next to each other. You break a piece off and knead them together with your fongers turning it green. It's ready sp you shape it however you want using fonger or tools and let it harden, add some more etc until figure is finished, sanding as needed under some water to prevent dust. Paint like normal. Simple as. You can make tools from wooden dowels shaping with sandpaper or from cheap dental tools or sculpting tools you can buy or silicon tools called color shapers which are pretty soft and smooth. Green stuff sticks to most tools so wiping some Vaseline onto paper towel or sponge and then onto tools helps lubricate. It's not hard. As you work just blend edges of new putty into old plastic or old sections of putty as you build the shape up making new additions stick to old. That's the secret.

>>98396009
thanks for the hand holding!
I have some ideas for some models I want to build for one of my armies, and I was genuinely inspired by the green tits in the last thread. Looking forward to posting progress here when I have some.
cheers.

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Do these cave orks look like cave orks or more like blueberries? I want some to look like drow/underdark dwarves from dnd, and some to look like azog from The Hobbit and maybe those warcraft white orcs. But maybe their skin is too saturated? Basically I just want them to read as cave dwellers, maybe I could do that with ghostly white eyes? idk

>>98396194
They read as cool for sure, but yeah maybe a bit too saturated to immediately come off as subterranean.

>>98396194
They're not white enough for what you describe, but I like this more. Looks good.

>>98396194
Pale smurfs, with slightly off white balance.

>>98396194
unfortunately a bit on the blueberry side. I still think they look neat tho.
>cave dweller/dark skin.
what I use is
>black prime
>a couple coats of very light grey
>just enough to were you can still see slight hint of the black primer underneath
>allah forgive me, the lightest shade of contrast paint for the color tint you want
>layer up the light grey you used mixed a tad with the color you want the skin to suggest
>use less and less of the color in the grey with each layer
>one more light coat of the contrast to tie it all together
sometimes I'll mix a dark or earthy wash in the last coat of contrast if I'm feeling froggy

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>>98393385
>Surprised you needed a tutorial dude, that looks fine as hell.
Thank you. This was such a long time ago and the new painting meta is basically starting from a middle point and shading it down, so I was curious to see how you did the paler skintones. Which again thank you, I am very grateful.

>>98393652
If you buy the current one, please mail me the blood ravens decal sheet.

>>98393385
>sprayed it in a very humid area, rushed putting it on
I hate when this happens.

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>>98396240
>>98396227
>>98396263
>>98396290
thanks anons. I think I'll let them have different skin tones from me attempting to get grey, these blueboys and whites and then hopefully me hitting the grey. I think I definitely need to desaturate any base colour even if my eyes are being tricked and I think that drow are purple - they're desaturated purple. Some blue guys are okay I just don't want them to all look like that.

Also going insane from painting the same two colours forever, emerald and buff. Crazy how much more boring it is to paint something you already know how to paint.

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>>98394357
>>98394354
Nicely painted eyes and the freehand is lovely!
>>98393t680
>should I do some stronger highlights on the skin to make it stand out more
Yes, I think that'd help. Or maybe try establishing some volumes by highlighting only the top and parts that are sitcking out?
>>98393358
It does read as a frost weapon, good job! I also like the marble base a lot.
>>98393190
Very nice work on the girl.
>>98392925
Looks great so far, you sculpted her breasts really well,
>>98392924
Lovely scheme, I really like how the orange and purple go together
>>98392820
>>98392826
Very nice, I particularly dig how you painted the metallics

>>98396333
Oh thanks

>>98396326
Drow are purple and also don't particularly look like cave dwellers, if you showed them to someone who didn't already know their lore about living underground I'd wager they'd be more likely to assume they were just nocturnal or maybe even aquatic.

>>98396370
they look like sneaky dastardly gits so that's enough for me, nocturnal fits. I want a kinda Kommando style thing. I remember an old white dwarf when the old snik rot metal kommando stuff came out and I loved that issue when I was a kid.

>>98396333
I'm sorry for messing up the reply link to >>98393680 btw

>>98396194
I think they're great. Adding cool colorer insigna details would tie their armor to their skin color.

>>98396333
>Very nice work on the girl.
thank you! it was a long time ago but perhaps I should paint more hehe.

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Modern citadel, coat darms, p3, liquitex, but vallejos and citadel from 1980 and warcolours and scale75 in another room :(
I need moar paints, what do bros?

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Most people use 3.65 ml per year so you don't really have enough. :(

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I'm here to beg for Stahly paint swatches, don't really care how old I just want the vallejo game color and express mostly anyway.
Pic of shit I work on as tribute, I'm only recently getting into the actual painting.

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Moar. I need mooooar!

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Ultimate colors!

>>98396556
it's in the Op's mega

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>>98396556
It's in the OP mega, but here's link to the latest version (2.5): https://files.catbox.moe/82w72p.pdf
t. leaker

>>98396556
Where did you get that elesh norn figure? Was it a print or does somewhere have it?

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This time I tried like hell to keep it thin and not work over before it dried

>>98392171
Nice dwarfs!
What green was used?

>yellow cap jar
Is that an ammo cobra motor paint? Acrylic?
I’ve been interested in the metals from that range for a while but pulled the trigger on a few. I plan to transfer them to bottles.

>>98396959
Beautiful anon. What paints did you use for the skin?

>>98396791
Not him but a different anon who asked.
Thank you anon.
>Ak metallics
What happened? They look a little off to me.

>>98397021
ntab AK metallics are pretty bad, you're better off getting a different brand. Their regular acrylics are great, though.

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>>98397007
lots!

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Currently working on my Bolt Action table. I’m building a foldable 6’×4’ gaming table with a wooden frame that folds for easy storage and transport.

>>98397133
Killer.

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I'm trying to shift away from using washes on metal and use glazes instead. I want to try and git gud at tmm. So I am using red here to contrast with the armor but I am not sure if I should commit. The colour for the eyes also feels boring so I might try green or yellow.

>>98397133
Sick. I feel like hobby adjacent hobby stuff is undervalued.
>>98396959
I can't tell what's not impressive the breast sculpt or the skin.

>>98397279
Gold probably has enough value contrast with that dark purple, and is moreover the complement of purple.

>>98397133
That garage is disgusting. It's too clean, what's wrong with you?

>>98397338
clean your garage you fucking slob

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Not mine, but I'm trying to find a color match for this Beige and Brown colors. I'm thinking citadel's Skrag Brown is a close color to the darker brown, but I am looking for a warm beige paint.
Also is there a close approximation to Skrag Brown but in a dropper bottle? I'm trying to move away from the shitty GW pots.

>>98397424
>he doesn't slip on spilled motor oil and break his neck before getting impaled on the scrap metal pile whenever he needs a can of spray paint
ngmi

got my Intercessors ready to be primed tomorrow

>>98397338
Yeah, my garage is in pristine condition in fact, it’s brand new!

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>>98397023
Alright I'll take a look at ArmyPainter's metallics as they mimic Citadel and maybe try the Coat D'arms metallics or Warcolour Nostalgia metallics. I'm thinking of their 80s line if I can find a Canadian digital reseller of them. I might just go with CdA because I am also interested in their inks so I can colour match them with artist grade inks. I am not sure if I should colour match them to Liquitex or Daler Rowney as Liquitex Inks are weaker in coverage than DR inks.
Which ones should I match with?

>>98397500
I did a quick check on the Stahly chart and got pic related in tan colours. I'm not sure if skrag brown is what you're looking for.

Anon reuploaded them over at>>98396791

You could try a image to hex color matcher then find the hex color result to a hobby paint swatch then check the chart to verify accuracy of digital swatch to actual paint.

>painted my first face that my phone's gallery actually thinks is a human face
i'm gonna make it bros

>>98397821
Were all gonna make it brah
Good job on your painting.
What tutorials did you follow to learn how to do so?

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>>98396333
Thanks. I shaded the metal using a burnt red as a mother color on the side facing the viewer as if he were looking towards a rising sun. For the shadows I mixed the red into the darkest steel/gold color I had in my arsenal, and for the highlights, I mixed vallejo aluminum instead.
>>98391967
Fucking awesome sister of battle. Only one I've ever painted was one that I turned into a statue. I am tempted to buy some more and copy your scheme.
>>98394357
Excellent work there. What mini is that?

>>98397840
I like that verdigris effect.
I remember trying a mixture out on a statue styled miniature. The mix was a wash of green paint with AP green wash, but I think I was supposed to reduce the green paint to a wash like consistency. Hopefully 3D printed resin is safe to paint strip with isopropyl alcohol.

>>98397737
ty anon!

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Finished my first unit of miniatures ever! I learned a lot and am fully decided on which colour scheme I want for the army. Next is a Centaur RSV!

>>98397911
No problem.
One thing skrag brown and similar colored toned paints are good for is watering down into an easy DIY rust effect. You have to water the thing down to a wash consistency then water it a bit more I think. I don't know what the paint drop to water drop ratio is off the top of my head across most acrylic paints.
Here's a Timestamped video of such a thing being done:
>application
https://youtu.be/dvlvzXaEmso?t=570
>what it looks like when done right
https://youtu.be/dvlvzXaEmso?t=601

>>98397962
Really great

>>98396791
You are an absolute chad, thank you.
>>98396855
It's a resin print, you can get it from STL Forest on Telegram if you're into resin, there's 2 other models from other card printings but the og is my favourite

>>98397962
great job anon, good luck on your transport

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>>98397980
>>98397983
Thank you anons. I'm stoked at the idea of painting a vehicule and trying out glazing and sponging to add some grime and battle damage. I also think I did a better job with priming this time around, the Centaur seems to have a much smoother texture than my shock troopers.

>>98397962
great job anon. They look dope. Congrats on your first.

>>98397982
What printer and resin did you use?
I've seen sirayatech recommended and I am unsure if it really is as good as it's cost is big.
>>98398031
>tired and tracks
Here I found something that might help.
>https://youtu.be/TU16gGvE2js?t=522
Guy spreads dark sand watered down to a milk consistency and spreads is somewhat carefully on the tank as weathering.
Maybe you can take the main colour from your basing scheme and water the paint down and put it on the tires and treads for easy weathering after painting the tires and treads.
>glazing and sponging to add some grime and battle damage
Sponges are amazing for weathering chipping effects. I've never heard of the glazing unless it is what I described above.

>>98398056
That's a dope idea thanks, video saved. I'll definitely add some dirt in the tires and tracks. I might even pick up some Vallejo desert dust dry pigment to try it out

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>>98398056
I had an anycubic m5s and I now have an elegoo ultra saturn 4 16k, most of my stuff is printed on the anycubic, there isn't much visible quality difference desu the saturn 4 just has a lot of quality of life features that greatly reduced my fail rate. The real problem with resin is the toxicity, you can't breath it and you can't touch it, so you need a good setup in a ventilated place, a real mask and a constant supply of gloves. It's a pain in the ass but the print quality is just so good.

>>98398066
>Vallejo desert dust dry pigment
Make sure to have pigment binder of some kind. Vallejo sells their own. Hopefully it is in stock. I've never used pigments yet so I can't really comment from a place of experience. I haven't done much homework on pigment application.
Vallejo pigment binder comes in a childproof'd cap bottle and I learned the hard way that despite almost being 30 the childproof'd cap is still effective against me. So don't feel bad if it takes multiple attempts to open.

>>98398078
Thanks anon!
>real mask.
What gas mask do you use?
>constant supply of gloves
Wouldn't those long sleeve dish washing rubber gloves work?
>ventilated
Working on that.
>saturn 4
There was a great deal where I was when I was looking for printers and I got Anycubic photon mono 4 ultra. Had extra money to get a wash+cure station too.
I'll try to get some good use out of both before upgrading.

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>>98397737
>>98397975
https://www.miniaturepaintingforge.com/paint-by-hex-code/
Found this website, the brown is pretty close to Leather Brown by Reaper Master Series, which I don't know how well those handle. But it hovers below the 5 point range on anything that looks to be a safe area to color pick from.

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>>98398093
>What gas mask do you use?
3m 6300 mask, if you don't wear glasses you might want to consider a 6800 just in case, but I feel it's overkill.
For filters: 3M Multi Gas/Vapor Cartridge/Filter 60926
>constant supply of gloves
It would be expensive I would suggest regular nitrile non-powder disposable gloves, thickness doesn't usually matter but when you're tearing off supports 4-5mm thickness is better than 2-3mm, anything over that is overkill. Regardless wash your hands regularly when dealing with resin.
> I got Anycubic photon mono 4 ultra. Had extra money to get a wash+cure station too.
Very nice, wash and cure is critical, I've even talked to some guys who do ultrasonic but I have perfectly fine results with water washable so I think that's overkill too, maybe if I was printing dental moulds or jewellery or something for casting. Especially if you're going warhammer scale the mono is a perfect workhorse, I did a dreadnaught recently that would have easily fit on 1 mono buildplate (picrel)
I opted for the bigger one because I do a lot of large models, at just under a foot models still take me like 4-5 full build plates, that's really the only difference between a big and small resin printer, you can always break a model down and print a lifesized waifu if you really want at any scale, it'll just take infinitely longer.

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>>98398194
Here's the fat little boi after printing.

>>98394273
Army painting is a scam designed to make us enjoy the hobby less.

>>98392826
Leather looks awesome. What's the recepie for the bag? I keep flip-flopping between browns all the time, but can't find anything I really like

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Tested AK's Streaking Grime, quite like it. Managed to get this team done really fast.

>>98398205
Be curious how it looks primed anon, what the cleanup is like? I just got some 3D-printed minis delivered, and they are so small it is hard to tell if they need additional cleanup before priming and how much priming will conceal.

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trying to get better with patterns and highlights. got any tips?

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I'm running out of test models before I have to start stripping them. What do you think of this scheme/recipe so far?

>heavy drybrush gold
>light drybrush silver
>fill in panels dull red
>layer brown then pale green over cloth
>skeleton horde all over (might swap this for agrax instead)
>nuln oil stippled on the middle of the trim

>>98398453
What highlights? I cant see any highlighting

>>98397868
I actually painted it in blue and a light teal using a random pattern, then dry brushed bronze on top of it. Then for the areas I wanted to give a very heavy patina to, I heavily watered down a white/teal mix and let it run into the crevices. Took about 30 min overall including cleanup and drying.

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I decided to get brave and really push how dark I wanted to shade the white robes. And I am glad I did. Still, fuck painting white.
I also snapped off the pole of the halberd again so that is going to suck to pin.

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>>98398480
That looks really nice. I love white shaded with blue.
Pic rel is one of my favorites but I haven't been able to replicate the white.

>>98398453
Its all very flat. Looks like you just slapped on a bright base color and did nothing else. You need to start with a darker base color, then layer lighter tones on areas that catch light. Models need contrast.
White is a difficult one to get nice. Doesnt have any cheats (aside from airbrushing), just need to start with a dark grey base and layer progressively.

Frankly I think you should forget about patterns for now and focus on fundamentals first. Hell, even just some slapchop sloppa would be a good learning experience I'd wager.

>>98398489
that's impresive, how big is it?

>>98398489
Yeah that piece is gorgeous and I needed to look at the dog mount twice because it looked like a painting.

>>98398508
54mm scale, The Trio from Arnau Miniatures

>>98398078
>>98398093
I can second Saturn 4 16k, it's so simple to use. If you ditch the SHITTY elegoo resin it comes with it (at least mine did) for something more reasonable, it's pretty much plug and play.

>>98398194
>I would suggest regular nitrile non-powder disposable gloves,
Keep in mind that resin will get through gloves. Latex will permeate the chemicals pretty much immediately. Nitrile is better, but it can still start permeating in ~10 minutes with thinner gloves. IPA accelerates this, too. So, either get thiccer gloves, or wear two pairs.
Ideally, have a workflow that minimizes, or removes you touching uncured resin completely.
>I have perfectly fine results with water washable
Which one you use?

How feasible is taking tree branches for forest bases? Do they rot over time, or can they be safely added?

>>98398579
They contain mold, bacteria and bugs (and bug eggs).
You have to bake them for a pretty long time to kill everything, but after that they're good.
Though considering the price of the gas to run the oven for long enough, it's usually cheaper and safer to just buy bagged basing materials.

>>98398584
Just put them to a water, boil for a couple of minutes, and then prime. No need to treat a fucking stick like a biohazard.

>>98398632
>No need to treat a fucking stick like a biohazard.
It is quite literally a biological hazard; a biohazard, albeit a minor one.
You need to bake it because the water left in the stick from the boiling will grow mould, and nobody wants a mouldy miniature.

>>98398640
unless you're painting anything nurgle of course

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>>98398642
naturally

>>98398640
>water left in the stick from the boiling will grow mould
I thought it was obvious to let it dry afterwards.

and here i am with 15 years old terrain made with dry sticks i got from the ground with no treatment
when do i start worrying?

>>98398671
now

theyre coming for you

>>98398684
too late
theyre under your skin

RUN

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>3d printing
I can second Elegoo, tho I have the mars 5. Its basically the same as the saturn so far as I understand it, just smaller. Never did any 3d printing before and I can verify its basically plug and play if you have above room temperature IQ. I even use their resin which everyone talks shit on and I get bretty decent prints. But the updates to their slicer are AI vibe coded, dogshit slop I swear. Its was getting buggier and buggier every update so I stopped updates like 6 months ago.
>resin
I wear nitrile gloves cuz it does fuck up your skin, but I honestly havent given a shit about the fumes or dust beyond trying to avoid directly huffing it. Countdown to cancer begins I suppose. Print quality is worth it.
>off topic posting
sorry, heres some deathguard I've been working on to make up for it. Still not sure what kind of base I want them on, so im justing having them on boring industrial-ish kinda things for now.

>fear mongering about sticks being toxic
this is a new low

>>98398803
Pro Lychee Slicer is unironically goated.

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>>98398508
>that's impresive, how big is it?

>>98398868
goddamn it I shouldnt have laughed as hard as i did

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>>98398508
>that's impresive, how big is it?
that's what she said

>>98398901
Hahahha epic reference fellow redditor, you just won the internet!

>>98398956
Hey, thanks! :)

Is it worth it to buy dedicated airbrush paints like vallejo air?

>>98399466
no unless you include laquers into that category

>>98399466
It's cheaper to buy regular paints and an airbrush thinner but if you don't mind paying a bit more to have a pre-thinned paint then go for it. You're paying for convenience.

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>>98398392
Cleanup is mostly just sanding down the burs you get from the supports, lots of sanding, I use every method of sanding from paper to sticks to a dremel, it gets worse if you try to break the support off right at the body, then you get a gouge which requires even more god damn sanding or worse; putty fill.
For smaller models the burs should be obvious, gouges will look like little glassy spots, priming usually goes fine (I do airbrush though) but be careful when drybrushing, if you go perpendicular to the layer lines you can get some weird Moiré patterning.

I usually do my best but I always do a zenithal prime afterwards just to find spots I've missed or fucked up. Here's an Ahri I primed a few weeks ago to demonstrate some things I missed during cleanup

>>98399466
>>98399473
>You're paying for convenience.
this
most of the time I just mix thinner into the paint im using. but if i know im going to be using a shitload of one color, like basing an entire army or a bigger model ill pay the exrta few bucks for the spray color to save myself some hassle.

>>98399466
If all you do is airbrush then maybe, but honestly it's just regular paint with half airbrush thinner or flow improver, which is significantly cheaper than paint, and all at the same price? Seems like bullshit to me.
I think it's mostly for ww2 style models which are mostly one very smooth color or camo, almost every vallejo airbrush color is named like american navy blue or imperial japanese khaki or wehrmacht grey.

>>98398078
>you can't breath it and you can't touch it,
You can do both, just wash your hands after you touch it.
Your status as a hypochondriac is your problem, it is not an essential barrier to entry for printing.

>>98398571
>wear two pairs.
Holy fuck, you fearmongering cunts are just going to keep on pushing the envelope, aren't you? This is what happens when we don't immediately jump on your bullshit, eh?
>>98398093
Anon the MSDS exists to cover the company's ass in case of chemical fuckups, they go overboard with the safety on it. You know what the safety requirements for resin handling are?
Don't drink it, Don't dispose of it in natural bodies of water
these fearmongers will have you convinced you need a hazmat suit before long, they also think you need to take anything that has touched resin to a special chemical disposal site, that you need to be a homeowner with a dedicated extra room for it and a grow tent on top of that.
Anything to increase the expense of printing as a deterrent to you switching from corporate product to cheap private production.
You don't need any of that shit, if you're afraid of fumes open a window and normal circulation will serve you more than fine, glade wall plugins are more of a danger to your health, frying fish in oil in a pan is more of a danger to your health. Being within 20 feet of a running vehicle is more of a danger to your health.
If you want to worry about your well-being focus on more important things like corn syrup in foods and cooking with teflon pans.

>>98399553
>resin fumes are actually beneficial to you schizo at it again

>>98399527
If you touch watered down resin like after a cleaning bath, sure, but if you touch live resin you'll get necrosis. I had a drop hit me on the foot, I wiped it off without a second thought, went about my day, 16 hours later I woke to the feeling of a very itchy foot, I scratched at it and I immediately got hit by a waft of blood, I looked down and the exact spot where the drop had hit, about 1x1cm squared, the skin had just fallen off and I was bleeding. Took 9 months to heal a tiny scab that shouldn't normally take over 2 weeks.
And as far as I can tell I'm resistant, some people I know got out of the hobby because they can't even be in air contact with resin anymore because they develop hives, but that usually only happens if you've breathed too much in.

>>98399553
You are an imbecile, thick ass nitrile gloves will start permeating resin in under an hour. A lot, lot less if you introduce IPA to the mix. Doubly so if you buy some flimsy thin examination gloves.

>>98399553
This post smells very indian, do you also forge steel while wearing sandals? This isn't the third world, if you can afford PPE you should be using it, we don't need white people being injured or genetically damaged by completely preventable means.
Don't take me for some corporate stooge. Steal the means of production, print guns, slay ceos in the streets, turn the culture war and race war into a class war, but do it safely and wear PPE, the last thing we need is the scientists and craftsmen of the revolution to turn into the paint sniffers of the future.

If you have a resin printer you should buy and wear a pair of goggles. You do not want random pieces of support or drops of resin flying into your eyes.

to be quite honest with you senpaitachi if you own a pr00nter you should get a full hazmat suit with a self-contained breathing apparatus
You dont even want to look at resin funny lest it will give you ass cancer

>>98398194
>>98398205
Thanks anon I appreciate it.
>>98399498
This is good info.
What sand paper grit? I’m not sure if my tamiya files I’ve had for a while will be enough.

>>98398453
he looks like he has a nose bleed. also why did you make the lower half of the rider have the same pattern as the horse?

>>98399678
NTA, but you can mitigate quite a lot of cleaning by doing your own supports, and by curing the model with the supports on, and then removing the supports after a quick dip into ~80C water.

>>98399466
no you should buy dedicated airbrush paints like mr hobby. why get an airbrush if you aren't going to use the good stuff?

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>>98399678
I usually just do 400, although if it was a big enough mess I'll do a pass with 800 too. Anything 200 or below I've noticed can cause scoring marks so I tend to avoid it, but this may just be because water washable resin is less abrasion resistant. I've taken to primarily using these semi-rigid sanding sticks I got off temu, they're cheap and easy to work with.

>>98399700
Guy he was talking to here, I've never tried that, I'll give it a shot, I was always worried if I cured with supports on it wouldn't cure the occluded parts but honestly I am so fucking sick of sanding.

>>98399780
>I was always worried if I cured with supports on it wouldn't cure the occluded parts
Naw, don't worry about that.
Curing with supports also removes you having to touch uncured shit. I usually print stuff > wash > cure > let it breathe for a bit > pour a full bowl of 80C water, throw the prints in, let them soak and soften for about a minute (less for smaller) and then you can just break it away very, very easily by hand. It leaves pretty clean model afterwards, I can't remember the last time I had to sand shit.

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The sculpting continues. I tried using milliput, as it supposedly allows for sharper details, but it just made an awful mess when it contacted with water. Maybe I used it wrong, or the milliput was already spoiled. Next thing I need to is to figure out what to do with the necks.

>>98399794
Fantastic thanks anon, my next print is going by this method.

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Update

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>>98399814
Cheers. I printed some shit yesterday, picrel is virtually the worst, most messed up example I could find. I will be sanding this one, but again, it's a very easy job.

>>98398078
sex

>>98399831
cant see shit brah, try taking a closer photo

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conspicuously sneaky terminators

>>98399885
Will do, ill wait for the next update thx.

I bought some stuff from chinamen for the first time, do any of you know what the shipping times are like to the US? I'm guessing ~3 weeks minimum.

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Some progress

Tried freehanding checkers, wasn't as awful as I expected

>>98400176
man I want to paint some black templars now...

>>98399812
Miliput is water soluble, like clay. Handy for filling gap filling.

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>>98400176
>freehand
Nice, looks miles better than a decal. I've only recently dipped my balls into doing freehand but I can't get enough.

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>>98398317
I used a dark reddish brown (Like Rhinox) as the base, and a sienna (skrag) as the highlights. Paint it on a bit scratchy to imitate wear and tear, and maybe mix in a bit of ivory to the sienna for the highlights where there would be the greatest amount of flexion. For the shadows, mix a touch of black into the brown and put a few light layers.
Remember, since it's heavy duty leather it's gonna look rough so you don't need super smooth transitions. It's gotta look scratchy and beaten up.

>>98400195
Do it!

>>98400205
Thanks man, but to be completely honest I would have used transfers if it wasn't a pain in the ass putting the checkers transfer on that kind of surface

>>98400248
Cool helbrecht, had a lot of fun painting mine

I don't envy that servitor cleaning an active power sword, though

>>98400260
It's why he's a servitor, lol.

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2.18 MB JPG

>>98399812

I think I got the necks done now properly.

>>98399580
>but if you touch live resin you'll get necrosi
no you won't faggot, i handle the resin without gloves and have for years, nothing is wrong with my hands and by transitive interaction, nothing is wrong with my dick either.

>>98400331
There's a whole lot of wrong with your brain, thoughbeit.

>>98400345
that'd be you claiming necrosis where it's bullshit.
you have definitively lied about health concerns in a readily demonstrable manner, you have rendered every statement you have made suspect in doing so.
You know what you can't do? You cannot find any evidence of topical contact with resin causing any medical issues, no hospitalizations or anything, nothing but repeated "advice" from those who have never tested it.

>>98399794
>cure supports
Asshole advice
>>98399814
You'll break your prints, anon wants you to waste money

>>98400468
>You cannot find any evidence of topical contact with resin causing any medical issues, no hospitalizations or anything, nothing but repeated "advice" from those who have never tested it.
nta, yes there are examples, but reading your post i'd guess you know them and decided they were fake because it didn't happen to (you)
it's an inmmune response, so it varies a lot between people, the vast majority of people will never notice anything, but a few chosen ones will get blisters with skin contact, and you don't want to find out you are the later so just take basic precautions

>>98400755
It's a pretty common method, stop being retarded.
https://youtu.be/NL2VBODix_Q?si=11j9S2pzW9KvPbzT&t=724

>>98400755
I don't even wash my supports. Just break em off beforehand...

>>98400793
Not to mention no one knows for sure what are the effects of a long-term exposure.

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Really done this time I promise - finished the base as encouraged to do so by others here

>>98400890
Now *those* are sum proppa-lookin' Orky rokkitz!

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I just realized Lego (clones) and 40k minis are roughly the same size.
Might be interesting for kitbashing purposes, like for example...

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2.21 MB JPG

>>98401069
using those heavy machine guns as part of an entrenched defensive position

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>>98401093
or even changing weapons.
All I gotta do is file down the handle

>>98400793
dont go outside you might get hit by lightning

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Only like 20 more to go.....at least I made sure that every Skaven is a different model so it always feels like I'm painting a "hero."

This is for Advanced Heroquest.

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>>98401166
The rest of the horde, see you in a month, I'll take a nice group shot.

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2.71 MB JPG

Zooom

>>98401069
My son and I used to play Mordheim using LEGO Knights as the playing pieces. It made altering your warband in between games really easy!

Hi anons.
I've noticed in a lot of painting videos that people use round drybrushes rather than the flat ones GW sells.
What are a good brand of drybrushes to pick up?

>>98401227
Its because a lot of us just buy makeup brushes from the dollar store, they work just as well and are usually round.

>>98401245
You wear makeup?

>>98401245
Oh, really?
That's good to know, I'll try that.

I try to avoid Citadel products, but every other tone/shade/wash on the market is terrible compared to Citadel shades. And it's not close.

>>98400047
They cute, great colors

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It is damned near impossible to get smooth yellow using a brush.

>>98396326
What or where are those adrian helm+gasmask heads from

>>98401369
Both AP and new AK washes are either just as good or better.

Just got HH Angron in from Great Xiao. Can I just soak this MF in watered down simplegreen for a few hours or do I have to do soap bath?

>>98401530
an ebay lot of wargames atlantic ww1 french infantry bits.

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made a fancy entrance

>>98401539
I've tried the Army Painter line (all of them I think) and no, they're not as good as Citadel. Better than Vallejo though.

Haven't tried AK, but I don't think anyone sells them here.

>>98401369
army painter's washes are fantastic, so are TTCs, and they have most if not more than the citadel wash range covered between the two of them
I have pro acryl's magenta wash too and it's really nice for faces
>>98401555
if you mean to remove mold agent you just need to get a disposable cheap toothbrush and scrub it with soapy water for a few minutes and rinse it off, degreaser's overkill

>>98401573
the fanatic washes in my experience are better than the current citadel ones, equivalent colors flow much better without staining nearly as much, the old formula strong tone was a bit splotchy but the new line has been smooth for every color I've tried

>>98401572
Ack! Masons, 33 bricks right?

>>98401555
Simple green probably too strong, it can attack the surface sometimes, just use dish soap and one of those ultra soft toothbrushes and rinse really well. Then air dry.

>>98401573
>>98401539
>>98401578
>>98401589
I suspect citadel uses drops of gum arabic and shellac in their contrast paints and washes to make them dry harder but initially more viscous. Basically an acrylic/watercolor/ink amalgamation. Shhhhh. Don't tell anyone. I'm just a professional artist.

>>98401610
>33 bricks right
sorry what?

>>98401635
nigga you keep spamming this shit
are you vegan too?

>>98400047
The saturated blue for the power sword is pretty nice.

>>98401653
Spam isn't vegan. It's a salt and meat product.

>>98401166
>>98401169
extremely cool, I like the colors you've chosen

>>98401127
i sure won't be running on an empty field in a rainstorm, but your fallacy is more edgy

>>98401561
Thanks!

I just started collecting space marines and I chose Mantis Warriors for my chapter.
I'm doing my first unit with a cape now and wondering what it should be.
I'm thinking a dusty brown or dirty yellow.

>>98402007
a dark red/burgundy or a rich blue would contrast nicely against the mantis warrior colors too