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Work in Progress, "Shouldn't This Week Be Over Yet?" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>You got me runnin' goin' out of my mind
>You got me thinkin' that I'm wasting my time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9nkzaOPP6g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98706384
>>98689688
>>98670191
>>
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Current tank crew member, based on an old metal catachan sergeant.
>>
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Was waiting until the new thread but I did 2 more of these last night.
>>
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Other one
>>
>>98726944
>tfw the loader keeps bringing his sword inside the tank
>>
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>>98726793
>managed to finish 2 minis over the course of one thread
>>
How necessary is priming your minis? Guy at my LGS was saying you can just use base paints to figs right off the sprue since it's the same thing.
>>
>>98727580
You can do anything you want if you believe in yourself
>>
>>98727580
modern acrylic is pretty grippy so you could get away with no primer on plastic.
For resin or metal though primer is a necessity.
>>
I've seen some videos of people showing off the new citadel paints and how thick they can be globbed on
Anybody have any demo vids of them using the oranges over dark undercoats? If they perform as well as the reds and whites I'll suck it up and deal with their dogshit pots if it means easier cleanup on orange spots
>>
>>98726739
The ranger and harlequin are super basic (their silhouettes are too important), just a kabalite pauldron addition for the ranger and the harlequin gets a trophy tau plasma pistol with his shuriken pistol, he's going to special in the paintjob, not in kitbashing the sculpt, no stereotype diamonds and quartered panels.
Now I just need to find some good bodies for kabalites/guardians to do a confusing split of armor styles of both to pad out the last slots in the team, then it's on to customizing a couple jetbikes and the venom.
>>
>>98727580
I've got 25 year old models that I never primed because I had no idea what I was doing. The paint is still on them to this day. Unless you dunk the model in oil before painting or have sand paper for fingers, it will work well enough.
>>
>>98727773
I don't understand this reasoning. plastic is smooth and slippery. it's one of the main materials that you would want primer for. "resin" is just a different type of plastic. it doesn't have anything special about it that would change how paint holds to it.
>>
>>98728090
I had a bad habit of holding the model itself and would wear paint off on edges. Especially metal models. Plus I didn't know what varnish was so double fuck me. At some point paint handles entered the chat and changed everything.
>>
>>98728141
different material can have different surfaces. If you're just going off of how it feels in your hands, then metal or wood would hold the best since its more rough. That's obviously not the case. Absorption can also be a factor. If you're asking if its a chemical or purely physical difference I couldn't tell you the details on that.
>>
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do you guys have any good recommendations for basing grass? i've messed around with army painter grasses but i'm curious if anyone has specific favorites.
>>
>>98728367
I imagine they're mostly the same stuff. I've had bags and tubs of Woodland Scenic grass for literal ages but I have been buying some grass from AliExpress here and there for different length and colors so I can get a more natural variation in my terrain and bases.
Other than that, I do have a couple of cheap brushes from the hardware store to cut clumps of bristle from. There are some other sources for foliage out there. I've seen people use cut bits of twine, for instance, and wouldn't be surprised if bits from a straw mat has been used.
>>
>>98728367
you can look for chinese knockoffs on amazon. i bought a 400 pc set for $10 once. it's all the same kind of stuff. they were for model trains, but works well enough for warhammer models.
>>
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>>98728068
Heavy gunner is good to go!
2 more units and the base team is done.
>>
>>98727580
Better safe than sorry
>>
>>98727522
Well done!
>>
>>98727580
Yes, there is brush on primer from Army Painter and Vallejo if you can't spray, won't work on big models because the brush strokes will look bad.
>>
Only managed to do the washes today, I'll have to do the gold and brass tomorrow.
>>
>>98728343
depending on the paint metal can be painted without primer if you media blast it first. wood has the problem that the grains sucks up too much paint. basically there's no reason for injection molded plastic to behave any differently when painted than resin based plastics.
>>
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Finally finished these guys. Very nice kit where you can paints lot of things. I've really enjoyed it.
>>98728367
I'm using tamiya one. It's good if you want a chaotic patches of grass, I guess. Will try to find mini, where I used it.
>>
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>>98729478

How did you paint the jacket?

I finished the brigands yesterday. The liquitex inks that I bought on impulse were really nice, even had a pipette in the pot.
>>
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Thinking of doing my Longbeards in a scheme similar to this. I want to stipple the armour to make a sort of stone effect. There used to be a video by some guy what was doing all the horus heresy legions and he did the Word Bearers in their original grey scheme in a stippled style. Video is long gone.
>>
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Working on an ethereal proxy. I want to give it a staff but I don't think I have any staff bits in my collection, so I'll just have to scratchbuild it.
>>
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>>98728367
Okay, here it is. Usefull, when you just want to put it on the base and forget about it.
>>98729489
The blue part? Just went up from very dark blue to a very light one with a lot of thin brush strokes and glazes here and there. I've used scale75 and, if I remember it right, it was deep blue, adriatic blue, sky blue and artic blue.
>>
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>2 full sized sprues for a single infantry unit
bravo blizzard.
>>
>>98730354
you missed the general(s)
>>
>>98730602
Oh, sorry. Also I meant Games Workshop, not Blizzard, of course.
>>
>>98730354
>>98730616
Incredible news, now fuck off back to your containment.
>>
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Some WE
>>
>>98730681

Sick Aussie cunts mate
>>
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>>98730719
>>
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Working on a nurgle champion. I'll try to make the eyes s sickly yellow once the ink is dry. It feels strange to paint a single model at a time.
>>
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How long do you guys think it will take the arms to fall off?
>>
>>98730959
Oh come on now.jpg
>>
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>>98730959
What the fuck im not Australian
>>
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>>98730959
>>98730969
Nice work on the robe.
>>
>>98730979
Thank you, I was too lazy to do this.
>>
>>98730932
The axe is pretty neat, but why does the rest of the miniature look the same?
>>
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>>98731119

I think it's the ink washes which makes the model very drab. I made some highlights now.
>>
>>98731126
Ah ok, now I can see it. Pretty cool anon, cheers!
>>
Square bases reign supreme.
>>
>>98730681
Found the lefty
>>
>>98731126
You know, I really like how it's coming out. These almost-monochrome paint jobs are hard to get right but I think you've pulled it off. Colored highlights on the blades are a nice touch.
>>
>>98730969
cool tits bro how did you achive that effect?
>>
>>98730969
bitch looks like she needs moisturizer. how do you guys cope with these crusty ass textures? that shit would drive me insane.
>>
File: dow_pf_box_01.jpg (1.04 MB, 3200x1785)
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Got this box done. It's the Dawn of War pushfit kit/game. Not sure what I'll work on next. I'm thinking the SM christmas box from last year.
>>
>>98731412
I painted the robes grey, then the offwhite that was gonna be the main color of the robe. Mixed skintone and the offwhite and applied it to the areas where skin would be pressed against the robe. On this it was just the chest and part of the thigh. Then I mixed a bit of red for the nipple and did some dots. Then I used some speedpaint light grey(im forgetting the name rn) thinned down with some speedpaint medium and use that as a shade for the whole robe. I made sure it glazes the skin parts. Then highlight with pure white.

>>98731713
The skin tone was applied with an airbrush. The texture is the metal. Its an ebay rescue so maybe it was smoother way back when
>>
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My heretics constructed a golem in our trench crusade campaign
>>
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They r evil
>>
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is a spring too stupid over leg(s)?
it's supposed to be a construct for forstgrave
>>
>>98732166
nice

>>98732291
Nice.
No, it's funny. I like it.
>>
>>98732291
It is indeed stupid, but in a fun way.
I like it too.
>>
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>>
>>98733531
The checkered shoulder pad looks nice
>>
Are cake pans a good tool to decontaminate sand from the beach in the oven?
What are the recommended temperatures and baking time?
>>
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>>98728068
>find some good bodies for kabalites/guardians
let me help you
gofile io/d/1triguxK
>>
I saw some posts say that current vallejo paints have a problem of "bubbles."
>>98733604
>>98733962
>>98733967
Is this real? A "skill issue" or an exaggerated problem? Are the metallics from the color lines including metal color affected by this? I bought a few metallic acrylics because I mostly use AK 3rd gen and I feel bad about my purchase now.
>>
>>98733923
Are those scanned plastics cleaned? Or has scanning results gotten so good it is hard to tell? I'm looking for all the 40k Imperial Guard plastic and resin models.
And Agents of the imperial agents too.
>>
>>98727580
It would only be an issue if you were going to use mineral spirits for enamels as it could strip the paint.
>>
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video game space man
>>
>>98733978
>Is this real? A "skill issue" or an exaggerated problem?
It's kinda all of these. It is real but you can usually mitigate it by not applying too much paint at once. I've only had it happen once when I was haphazardly applying a basecoat with a big brush over an entire mini. I don't know if this is the case for their metallics since I don't own any.
>>
>>98733978
I'm using vallejo a lot these days and didn't notice anything about those bubbles
>>
>>98733994
>I was haphazardly applying a basecoat with a big brush over an entire mini
This shit happens with citadel too
>>
>>98733990
why is everyone itt backwards on this issue? if you are using enamels you can use a clear midcoat to protect the lower layers from solvent. primer doesn't have anything to do with it in this case.
>>
>>98734005
>why is everyone itt backwards on this issue?
Because I'm pretty sure 90%+ of people here only use acrylics so their knowledge about enamels/oils is completely unreliable since it's all second-hand
>>
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>>98733981
>Are those scanned plastics cleaned?
The kabalites are cleaned, the ranger bits look ok to me, but I never had a plastic one of the latter in my hands. Don't know about the rest except the "PRiNG", those are built from scratch and crisp and look very close to the originals.
If you'd like I could assemble a plastic kabalite to compare, but maybe the print quality also depends on the printer and resin idk I got them printed by a random dude.
>IG models
I have some of those, older stuff like Tallarn and Steel Legion, but I don't know how well those hold up. Haven't gotten them printed, nor have I ever seen the originals IRL.
>>
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I've started painting a Paragon Warsuit and I feel like I am going to be painting one for a long time.
Fuck
>>
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Most basecoats down, some areas more refined.
Don't know if I'm feeling the golden helmet, thinking of changing it to blue or silver to match my other guys.
Testing some TMM techniques on the gold/brass colour, want feedback (claws, mask).
>>
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>>98734237
and the back
>>98734036
love the way you do your armour, sob anon
>>
>>98733978
>I feel bad about my purchase now.
I'm fairly certain that it's always been overblown very much. I've been using Vallejo paints, both old and new, for years and I never had any issue with bubbles. Ditto for their metallics.
>>
>>98734500
I've never noticed any bubbling issues either.
Side note: those new tmm paints are pretty good.
>>
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>>98731126

I added a beard made from a q-tip. Realized that I should've also bought a mascara applicator to tidy it up. We'll see what the effect is like once it's dry.
>>
>>98734615
>q-tip beard
soul
>>
>>98733978
Never noticed it with metal color, noticed it a little bit with some game color. It's exaggerated for sure, just try out your new paints and you'll see for yourself.
>>
Long shot here, but does anyone have tips for vacuum forming plastic?
I had the idea to build a questoris knight with the canopy from the admech archaeopter, but I'd rather not shell out for an expensive model I'm just going to cut the front off.
My next thought was to custom sculpt a mould for the canopy, and vacuum form a clear piece of plastic to give me a nice large clear piece to work with.
Has anyone tried something similar before?
Are there any other ways to more easily make a large, transparent single piece for a kitbash?
>>
>>98734693
You could probably find a very similar cockpit in scale models. A lot of helicopters have similar canopy.
>Are there any other ways to more easily make a large, transparent single piece for a kitbash?
Print it with transparent resin.
>>
>>98734700
>Print it with transparent resin.
I worry that this will look cloudy. Most examples I've seen of transparent 3d prints have this issue. I want something properly transparent, because the point is to show off the pilot inside (planning on kitbashing a /mydudes/ rogue trader freeblade, very excited).
>You could probably find a very similar cockpit in scale models. A lot of helicopters have similar canopy.
I will look into this, do you have any specific kit or manufacturer recommendations? I am utterly inexperienced when it comes to proper scale models.
>>
>>98734708
build a master out of whatever, make a mold and cast in clear poxy
>>
>>98734708
>I will look into this, do you have any specific kit or manufacturer recommendations? I am utterly inexperienced when it comes to proper scale models.
Imo, Russian military transport helicopters often have similar copulas. Mil Mi-171 maybe, or something like CH-53K, CH-54 possibly. Scale-wise, just check how big are the vehicles irl and then divide by the scale. For example, CH-54 copula is 213cm wide irl. 213/35 = the model copula is ~6 cm wide. Might be slightly more or less, but you can check with specific kit. Google says archaeocopter body is around 6,3 cm wide, so it could be an alright fit.
So, check some military transport helicopter pics, find the one you like, check the dimensions and then just google the name of the vehicle + scale model. You can get cheap ass scale models for a penny, too, no need to buy some fancy kits for kitbashing, so I wouldn't worry about the brand. That said, ICM and Academy are imo the gold standard nowadays.

Mixing scale model parts/building kitbashes on scale model kits was a fairly common technique back in Forgeworld days. To a point it made GW ban non-citadel models from Golden Demon after the Dragon Wagon incident.
>>
>>98734820
Do many scale models have those simple boxes like gunpla where you can just pick them off the shelf and open them to look inside?
>>
>>98734820
I think I want something like the canopy of the Alouette II, just based on pictures I've seen. I think I could flip it upside-down and fit it in nicely, assuming I can find a model kit of compatible size.
>the Dragon Wagon incident.
please enlighten me
>>
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>>98734824
I have yet to see a scale model box that you can't just pick up and look inside. Also, you can check something like scalemates or superhobby for sprue pics.
>>
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>>98734834
>please enlighten me
>one UK lad takes 1/35 Tamiya Dragon Wagon scale model
>replaces the back wheels for Chimera tracks
>adds a really neat Jagdpanther Chimera kitbash on top
>adds IG greebles
>adds more scale model greebles
>wins Golden Demon
>James finds out they handed out GD to a Tamiya model
>gets very mad, and bans non-citadel models from GD immediately after.
Pic very much related.
>>
>>98734857
It annoys me that such a restrictive event is somehow the largest and arguably most prestigious mini painting competition you can enter.
Will GD ever be surpassed by another competition? I see the mini painting scene ageing out and dying off before that ever happens.
>>
>>98734971
>>98734857
>>98734842

I often think of using scale models for my sci-fi armies, but I haven't come up with good sources for alternative bits to make them less blatant. Also, there seems to be quite a narrow selection of 1/48 kits.
>>
>>98735053
The good news is that 1:35th scale also works for warhammer because a cannon being as wide as a man is is normal in that setting, as are tanks that can't hide behind single storey buildings
>>
>>98735053
Imo, the trick is to use 1/35, but look for smaller vehicles. Modern MBTs are pretty much all way, way too big, but APCs, and general purpose vehicles are often good to go. Impulsor, for example, is pretty much 1:1 sized with 1/35 M113. And so is nearly Land Raider/Repulsor with 1/35 Bradley (Brad is just a bit longer). Also, what >>98735094 anon said.
>>
>>98731209
Krieg is my main army what does that make me?
>>
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>>98735113

1/35 scale IFVs would fit as troop carriers for my stargrave troopers? Previously I had looked at the 1/48 scale btr-60, already saw one converted for 40k.
>>
>>98734023
Thanks anon!
Funnily enough I'm actually after the Cadian shoulderpads if they are out there. I need to know what the concave and convex curvatures are of those models.
>>98734500
>>98734540
In the event of small bubbles is a "bubble breaker dry brush" a good option to fix it?
>>98734684
Yeah I gotta set aside time to try it out.
>>98735142
In the eyes of the terminally online a baby eating chud.
But for me I like what you did with those metallics. Especially the grenade launcher big barrel on the right.
And how did you do the plasma coil glow?
>>
>>98734693
>Has anyone tried something similar before?
I did it once in high school shop class. you need a plate with holes in it and something that can draw a vacuum through it. for a tiny piece like you want you may be better off trying to cast it.
>>
>>98735218
Depends on the IFV in question. Check irl IFVs, make a list of the ones you like the most, and then check how big they are compared to the model you want. It's imo a pretty fun process.

Anyway, I would say that modern IFVs are generally a bit too big. The more modern you go, the bigger they get, for example German Puma is fuckhuge, Bradley is, again, about as wide as Land Raider and a fair bit longer. You can also combine kits, like taking a lower hull of a smaller APC, and adding a turret from say Leman Russ or Chimera or whatever.
>>
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Starting to get the hang of this I think, still need work on the line work and forgot to do the intermediate glazes I wanted to do though

>>98733978
Accidentally got mecha color white instead of a normal white from them, it has bubbles yeah but if you can handle the bubbles it goes on smooth as fuck
>>
Did my first bit of painting today for the first time in 15'ish years. Doing some accessories/equipment/terrain for my new Kill Team stuff.
Just want to say, Dirty Down Rust is fucking incredible. Worth every fucking penny.
I'm amazed at all the materials and stuff you can get now. I would've gone crazy for this stuff when I was a kid.
>>
>>98735260

Yeah I'm browsing through a scale model shop's catalogue of 1/35, post-war IFVs and APCs, thankfully there are scale conversion tools available online, along with all the relevant vehicle schematics. Even a btr is over 20 centimetres long in 1/35. 40k vehicles tend to be very tall and broad compared to real vehicles. The archon studios wolverine tank is only 19 cm, I think that would be a good baseline for comparing scale models.
>>
>>98733923
Thank you very much anon, I had already decided to go with a kurnathi and soul weaver instread of two generic warriors but this will still help with the crew for my venom a ton and I am going through it to replace a few bits with the better detailed stuff in here.
>>
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>>98735283
Yeah, the length is usually the enemy. Though with how most armor scale model hulls are, you can often just saw the hull in half, and attach the back ramp or whatever fine. I've done that with the Bradley/Repulsor kitbash, took like ten minutes of work.
Also, check Russian/Soviet stuff, they have fuckload of both wheeled and tracked fairly small vehicles that make great bases for kitbashing. Picrel, GT-MU, for example. ~15cm long, 7cm wide. Perfect-size for IG/Stargrave Troopers. And the fact it's so plain is awesome, you can slap some small turret on top and you have a neat little IFV. Actually planning to do something with it once I'm done with Raptors.
>>
>>98735329

I was looking at the (Väinämöinen forgive me for uttering this word) Swedish cv-90, it's about the same size as the wolverine and looks quite sleek. As for russian gear, a BMD could work a bit better, as it's smaller than the BMPs are.
>>
>>98735412
>CV-90
Kino IFV. Probably my favorite along with Puma.
>>
>>98735283
Generally speaking the older something is the better suited for 40k it is
Modern shit is made with lame stuff like "square cube law", "aerodynamics", "fuel efficiency", "crew comfort", or most insidiously of all, "welding"
>>
>>98726949
Nice, but pay piggies only care about GW
>>
>>98734857
>James finds out they handed out GD to a Tamiya model

Is that something heretical or what?
>>
>>98735439
James doesn't like non-James models on James marketing event.
>>
>>98735439
it's not only free advertising for (what GW perceives to be) a competitor, it's loudly singing their praises over your own product
it doesn't help that tamiya asks a miniscule fraction of what GW does for a kit while providing more, higher quality pieces
>>
>>98735427
>Modern shit is made with lame stuff like "square cube law", "aerodynamics", "fuel efficiency", "crew comfort", or most insidiously of all, "welding"

Modern stuff is increasingly getting toy-like and it's not cool. Or taken from some simple graphics video game.
>>
>>98735053
GW tanks are too weird, you'd need a kv2 or something weird
>>
>>98735447
I understand your point but you posted an image of balsa wood on a cv90
>>
>>98735427
>>98735451

I don't really play 40k. I've 40k minis like probably everyone here does. But I raised this question because I was thinking of tanks to go with stargrave and eisenkern troopers. I should have been clearer about my intentions.
>>
>>98735471
>stargrave and eisenkern troopers.
yeah, that's definitely CV-90.
>>
>>98735471
Border models
>>
>>98735488
I would say that's more suitable for 40k than Stargrave.
>>
>>98735471
What about konflict 47/bolt action stuff? They already have some sci-fi weapons, wouldn't be too hard to jazz up the chassis a little to make it less obviously world war themed.
>>
>>98735488

If it's resin I say no thank you.

>>98735505

I like the sci-fi turrets, but not the WWII chassis. Might get a kit of nachtzehrer as it's a cool looking spider tank.
>>
>>98735459
>just found out that PL-01 prototype shown was literally built on CV90 frame

Holy shit.
>>
>>98735471
>tanks to go with stargrave and eisenkern troopers. I should have been clearer about my intentions.
Looking for sci-fi stuff?
How's this?
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-b-e-a-r-modular-vehicles-for-28mm-wargames-429709
>inb4 40k
It does try to appeal to the 40k crowd with some guns looking like they're out of 40k but the important thing is that as an STL those guns can be modified quickly in Blender.
>>
>>98735226
For the plasma coil just basecoat with dark blue, and then drybrush lighter tones of blue. For the white coils effect just use white oil paint. Metallics are stippled on over black and not brushed.
>>
>>98735275
agreed, I came back this year after a 20 or so year gap
part of it is having the money for better equipment now, but there's been been so much advancement and the entire painting process has been so much easier and giving much better results
I thought contrast paints were amazing. I cover over them, but they show you where you need to highlight
and there's so much more, detailed information online now you can look up anything that you want to paint and get ideas
>>
>>98735734
>but they show you where you need to highlight
a white drybrush does the same thing a whole lot cheaper
>>
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For the soul weaver I really didn't want something that could be confused with the wayseeker (which i'm using a farseer for) so I am using this shadow-stuff mistweaver saih sculpt i found (warhammer quest silver tower character) and the incorporeal-psyker expression will just make it unique while clearly being the soul weaver and not the way seeker.
Should I keep the staff as a generic "power weapon" or swap it out for a definitely corporeal power sword to go with the fancy cosplay shuriken pistol?
>>
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>>98735906
and for the kurnathi a striking scorpion base with a kabalite pauldron, swords and a half mask head.
>>
About scale models, anyone have some recommendations on where to look for some military decals that would fit on SF vehicles/mecha? I like Wh40k decals but they are all stupidly expensive.
>>
File: corsair biker princess.jpg (106 KB, 1330x1178)
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>>98735910
And i have bashed up a display alt for the leader on a jetbike.
I swapped her deldar sword for a tyranid sword to represent a trophy.
with the commissar cap on the shade-runner/wych and the tau plasma pistol on the harlequin duelist, this tyranid sword will help establish this corsair coterie as operating in and around the damocles gulf.
>>
>>98735934
You can buy specific sets (like German WW2 numbers, or Vietnam War US letters and such). Or, you can buy stencils, too. They work great and you can re-use them.
I personally like super-hobby.com. You can check their Decals section, pick a proper scale and go to town.
>>
Updating with the megalithic table, I've drybrushed some tones of green to the pieces to add some volume to the barrows, both to the grass and to the rocks to emulate some moss. Not sure if I should add more to those, I fear that going overboard with decoration will make playing annoying.

Moving on to the megalithic door, I've glued it to a newer base, as the weight was uneven and it kept falling off. Turns out that the sand cover actually ended up much better than what I expected, it really gave it a great texture. To cover the cutoff at the base (and the different green hues, since I made a different green mix by mistake), I added a circle of rocks.

I tried to do a menhir out of a plastic deodorant can. I covered it with clay and wrapped it in tin foil to give it rocky texture instead of the sand technique I used on the door. It ended up fairly well texture-wise, though the clay was more annoying to work with than I anticipated, so it ended up cylindrical instead of oval-like shape (like those Obelix carries over in the comics). As I did not have enough carboard for a circular base, I made it oval-shaped. I decorated the base with some flowers and rocks to give it color and hide the contact between the clay and the terrain, which looked awful. Also, the clay started to crack in some places, but thankfully it didn't break. Should I have made some holes across the can beneath to make sure the clay stays glued to it?

To end it, I used some of the cutout bits of carboard I had left and used some bottle cap to make a small mound of rocks. I should have made more, despite the terrain texture not being as detailed as the others.

As far as I'm concerned, the terrain is pretty much done, but I'd love some advice/tips for how to improve them if I ever decide to do more. Thanks to the anons that gave me all the advice some threads before about how to start.
>>
>>98735948
Kick ass. You inspired me to do some megalith stuff too anon.
>>
I was more thinking about those symbols/emblems, I already have some generic numbers and letters.
>>
File: corsair kill team.jpg (1.95 MB, 6424x3868)
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And I think I have everything I need and want for the project ready to start printing
>>
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>>98735473

There's also Mantics sturnhammer, it looks a bit toy-ish and has an awful studio paint job, as per Mantic tradition. But here it is with eisenkern.
>>
>>98736102
Crap, it was for >>98735945

4chan is working awful today.
>>
File: whitegoldjade2.jpg (7.22 MB, 8690x4130)
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armor is finally "done" now time for hide, jade amulets and crystals at the front of cheast armor.

do you know any good guids for horse fur?>
>>
>>98736356

Goddamn that's a lot of details on the barding. Would it have killed them to make it a nice lamellar piece with maybe a decorative chanfron? When I've painted cavalry, I really haven't done anything fancy, just used simple colours and highlights. I've tried using several colours for a unit to break up the monotony a bit. That's it really.
>>
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I had a kid two months ago. I love him more than anything on this earth, but thank God for work lunchbreaks or I would get no hobby done.
>>
>>98736482
if you choose to have a kid you're choosing to put anything you like on hold for at least 16 years.


The overwhelming majority of parents fail at this, foisting their responsibilities off on public brainwashing institutions, brainwashing devices and brainwashing peers.
>>
>>98736482
>I had a kid two months ago.
Congrats, man.
>>
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Glue is still wet but I wanted to post my bases for some giant spiders. I put alot more effort into these bases than I normally do.
>>
File: IMG_20260926_152856.jpg (2.09 MB, 4000x3000)
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I did a total of 5. I hope the spiderweb comes out looking good.
>>
>>98735517
It's not resin
>>
That was a close one. We almost were down for 1/10th the typical duration between posting.

>>98736774
>>98736765
Ew, spiderwebs. Looks good though.
>>
File: Trenchcleric.jpg (1.32 MB, 1593x2161)
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45 min on a tiny freehand and I know it could be much better, but I like it. I believe it gives the Jesus idea, kinda.
>>
>>98736894
Looks great anon
>>98736500
Well, yes. But I don't smoke and usually don't feel hungry at work so I might as well use that time to do something.
>>
>>98736894
looks like jesus to me
>>
How tf do people paint while caffeinated or smoking cigarettes? That shit gives me such insane jitters, and I usually have surgeon hands.
>>
>>98736915
>>98736941
Thanks!
>>
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>>98736894
Not his exact likeness like pic related but it's a good effort anon.
>>
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>>98726793
Crappy lighting but here is the WIP of my aspiring sorcerer. I’ll give some retouches to the tabbard after I am done.
>>
>>98736894
Why did you make jesus white?
>>
>>98736131
does anyone recognize the style of jetbike on top? i know anon is showing STL's but something about that stepped/layered cowl looks familiar and I'm not seeing it on any of the miniatures going back to rogue trader
>>
How on earth do you decide which brands of paints to get? I went to the store with a pretty good idea of what I needed but it fell apart when I saw that a citadel color I needed was beyond thick which lead to an unraveling of "I could sub it out with this brand but if I'm doing that then should I do it with this one too and if I'm airbrushing then should I airbrush this part and get airbrush specific paint and should I wait for the new GW paint that will probably be ass but might not be but if it isn't then should I get" so on and so forth until I analysis paralysis'd myself out of the store buying nothing.
>>
>>98737214
>when I saw that a citadel color I needed was beyond thick
Thin it?
>>
>>98737222
Thick as in I turned it upside down and back and it didn't move.
>>
>>98737147
What, you like these Dark Eldar bikes?
>>
>>98737267
you mean* like...
>>
>>98737267
I don't think so, maybe it's a style in a piece of artwork.
>>
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3 Dreadnaughts ready to prime. Hopefully I can do it tomorrow.
>>
>>98737379
why the duplicate right arm lascannnon
>>
>>98737390
i've got another boxnaught that's already painted with the assault cannon arm and fist. there's extra lascannon and missiles because the kits came with all the weapon options.
>>
>>98737379
did you find the boxnaught in a bin? why is he smeared with grime
>>
>>98735948
the stonehenge looking thing looks too bumpy to be a rock.

>>98737397
these are the people telling you there's no need to wash your models before you paint them
>>
>>98733992
has that "plastic action figure" finish to it, neato
>>
>>98737397
it's been sitting in a box for 25 years
>>
>>98737222
>thin it
nerve gas.
>>
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>>
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Something Im just wrapping up; I need more crimson fist mans
>>
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>>98735471
If you're in the US of A khurasanminiatures has some nice near scifi tanks.
>>
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More work done.
Not sure how i feel about the plasma effect. It looks like utter shit from a top down view.
>>
Will you use the Warhammer(tm) tone pro(tm)?
>>
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>yellow covers in one coat

it's over. I might just retire the airbrush finally
>>
>>98737915
It's more like 2-3. I used it in store. My issue is the shine finish they have over matte.
>>
>>98737918
easy to knock off with a matte or satin varnish, which you should be using anyways to harmonise the surface finishes of your different paint brands.
>>
>>98737214
Vallejo Game color offers a limited range of like 60 colours which is all you need to paint everything

You can't really go wrong with Citadel, sounds like you're overthinking it. I airbrush both Base and Layer paints with tamiya x20 thinner, while it's not as easy as prethinned paints, it's perfectly doable

Army painter tries to make it easy for you with their triads

Maybe wait for tone pro and get number 5, 3 and 1 for the colours you need

In the end they're all acrylics so you can mix and match them, you don't need to get locked into a brand
>>
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These are the models I want to work on this fall.

Wish me luck WIP
>>
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My first stand of Warlord Epic Revolution British. I think they look OK at tabletop distance already but I think I'll touch things up some more. Then again, there is are a dizzying number nore to paint so maybe I need to compromise
>>
>>98736131
Are you reposing these in Blender?
>>
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I had a medical emergency about 12 days ago and wasn't able to work on him for a bit, but I'm back and my bee nid maleceptor is almost ready for yellows.

This whole thing was one big test to see if I could do the same contrast paint heavy scheme on a bigger model, and so far it's working. On the really big parts, I have to go 1:1 contrast or speedpaint to their contrast/speedpaint medium, and then I have to sort of glide it on as fast as I can with the side of a brush in two or three layers.

I wanted the more chalky drybrush on the big shell because I want it to look more textured and interesting with the yellow. It should make it look rough and pitted. I've done this on metals before and it usually pays off so I hope it does here.
>>
>>98738092
Based anon, have fun with these.
>>
>>98737915
It really doesn't, and all the shilling is finally starting to crumble as people are actually starting to paint with them.
They are seemingly good paints, but nowhere near some silly magic paintjuice as shills and retards been pushing lately.
>>
>adding lips to a giant cave squig
>drop it
>leg breaks off, gone forever
MOTHERFUCKER
What makes it worse is that i had planned to vacuum today
>>
File: KT Equip 1.jpg (1.81 MB, 2500x1582)
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Here was the Kill Team equipment I finished. It looked like total shit before adding the Dirty Down Rust and giving it a light drybrush afterwards.
I'm working on a bunch more simple terrain stuff to get back into the painting groove before I start painting the 35 minis I've got for Kill Team (more soon when I get the Legion of the Damned box).
I'm going to need a couple of more Dirty Down bottles for all the ork terrain I'm doing, that stuff is fucking incredible.
>>
>>98738637
The difference is that the demos are all using unthinned paint, which does somewhat have that magic "shrink to the model" effect, and is obviously going to be super opaque.
I don't think you need to thin them as much as some anons might assume, given how they shrinkwrap the model.
>>
>>98738713
NTA, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that pretty much exactly what happens when you use medium with the paint? The new GW paints just look like a bit stronger pigment with unholy amount of medium.
>>
>>98738720
I've heard reports of them using liquid pigments on them.
>>
>>98738713
They're already very liquid, you can hardly thin them more.
>>
I already own much more paint than I use
Skip
>>
>>98738761
get the white at least
>>
>>98738385
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
Are you going to do glowy osl brains?
>>
>>98738763
There's bold titanium white from pro acryl which is good enough IMO. For airbrushing, white ink. I'm more interested in their reds, as getting red right is always a bitch.
>>
>>98737052
LMAO my brother made the same comparison with the Spanish lady
>>
>>98738845
I recently picked up pro acryl bold pyrrole red and it is the best red I've ever used. I'd recommend picking that up beforehand.
GWs current range of reds is also surprisingly good in terms of smoothness, although it does take a million layers to build it up properly.
>>
>>98738878
Thanks, I added the red pyrrole to my basket for the next order
>>
>>98738878
>>98738908
Bold Pyrrole Red is incredible. The colour is so intense and punchy. It's the perfect "top layer" or last highlight for red cloth you don't want to go orange or pink for highlights. I like those deep reds where it ends in a RED red.
>>
>>98738676
Give it a peg leg anon, play freebooterz
>>
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i never knew paiting fur is so fun
>>
>>98738811
I admittedly don't know what I'm going to do with the brains yet. I'm thinking orange but I don't know if I want to just make it meat or if I want to make it glow.
>>
>want to learn how to paint a certain thing
>look up yt tutorials
>20% are pure airbrush
>other 80% is "So yeah we just slap this Contrast + Contrast and then glaze on top of it"
I'm almost afraid to ask
But should I just take the Contrastpill
>>
>>98739667
No, get an airbrush.
>>
>>98739667
No, you should take the airbrush pill instead.
>>
>>98739667
No, buy an airbrush.
>>
>>98739789
>>98739676
>>98739674
>Hello sir, do you have a moment to talk about Our Savior, the Airbrush?
>>
>>98739861
>should I get this excellent, time-proven tool that will push my hobby to a different level
>or get this tool that's made for people who don't even enjoy painting
>get the time-proven tool, anon
>UR ALL CULTISTS
>>
>>98739871
Some of us enjoy painting
>>
>>98739667
Both
The best way to use contrast paints is through airbrush
>>
>>98739871
literally yes, it's cult behaviour
>>
>>98739896
>Fucking carpenters and their obsession with hammers, they're a cult!
You don't know what a cult is.
>>
>>98739896
I'm pretty sure we've already been through the same exact debate at least once. Why are you like this?
>>
>>98739900
just the ones who're terminally online at /diy/ circlejerking about hammer model X from brand Y
>>
>>98739874
Yeah, that's why we use the airbrush to skip the tedium of basecoating so we can do actually interesting parts of the painting processs
>>
>>98739895
Sorta this. Anons, contrast paints are just another tool in the box and the usage as commonly outlined is just one way to use them. Explore a bit, but if it's not a tool you'd ever use, that's fie too.
>>
>>98739959
Sure, it has its niche applications, but anon didn't specify what he was trying to do.
>>
>>98739921
extra cost, maintenance time, dedicated space, ventilation
vs.
just a brush
>>
File: IMG_1863.jpg (3.1 MB, 2880x2438)
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Further work on my Tank(battleship)men.

Armour texture and radio rigging are done. Just a few things to neaten up before I can paint them.

Anything else they should carry? Little ensigns mayhaps?
>>
>>98740197
>extra cost
less than the price of a box of models
>maintenance time
meme, you can keep it running with 60 seconds of flushing it out after spraying and nothing else
>dedicated space
meme, you can keep it packed away and set it up in a cardboard box when you use it
>ventilation
meme, unless you're spraying lacquers and enamels you don't need anything other than a box to catch overspray
you have no excuse, you just come up with them so you can pretend to feel superior about being less efficient
>>
How come suugs and duncan get spots in the OP but we can't have somebody like Amalia?
>>
>>98740208
Lil Jesuit Bibles would be kino.
>>
>>98740220
because your literal who didn't post on /tg/
>>
>>98740208
I like the tiny heads. Maybe some rosary beads?

>>98740220
OP's favorites.
>>
>>98740238
Duncan posted here?
>>
File: 0.jpg (730 KB, 2934x1500)
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Can anyone identify what minis are these?
I got them from a blindbox of 3d printed minis.
>>
>>98740213
Playing devil advocate here, airbrush is not cheap tool, cheap Chinesium ones (that everyone will tell you to avoid) might cost as much as single box of basic minis but typically people suggest H&S Ultra or Evolution - that cost around 200€, at least for me. That's not something to sneeze at. Let's not forget about all those extra supplies required like cleaning solutions, dedicated thinners, flow improver, so on. Likewise, I'm tired of this whole "but you can just flush it" meme, every time and I mean EVERY TIME I use airbrush, I have to take out needle at the end, take out nozzle and clean both of them from dried up paint, which, based on my experience, is not something that can be avoided with acrylics at all. Those paints will dry, period. I went to people actually teaching airbrush use and they pretty much said the same - each session with waterbased acrylics will require needle and nozzle cleaning. You might do this quicker when you gain experience but it's still a matter of doing all this cleaning at the end, something that made me reconsider using airbrush more than couple of times. As in, why would I bother picking it up to spray primer/base coat at few minis when it means taking all stuff out of drawers/boxes/etc, preparing and loading compressor and later cleaning everything, when alternative is to take model outside and spray primer from spraycan, which takes few minutes? Or semi-drybrush all over a mini?

I won't deny that airbrush is useful tool but whole setup requirements and costs is not something you can ignore. And often deciding factor not to bother.
>>
>>98740304
The one on the left is a ork
>>
File: 20260927_102922.jpg (3.92 MB, 4032x3024)
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Bolt action brits, with one dude painted up as the prototype.
>>
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>>98737915
Ehhhhh
>One thick coat of Khemri Sands 4 over black primer (3). It does self-level well, but not perfectly (see bulge at bottom), and also cracks and bubbles in recesses. To test ways to improve coverage, I tried drybrushing (1) - didn't work - and a layer with contrast medium (2)
>>
>>98740396
that looks like absolute shit
>>
>>98740305
>that cost around 200€
My 50€ H&S works perfectly. Unless you're golden demon level, you don't need more than that.
>>
>>98740433
>Unless you're golden demon level, you don't need more than that.
Stupid mentality.
>>
>>98740439
Not really. The accuracy you gain from a 200€ H&S is not something you'll need unless you're at that level, which will take you a couple years of practice that you can do just fine with a 50€ one.
>>
>>98740433
I can do priming, varnishing, basecoating, and OSL effects with a 30 dollar master airbrush off amazon, people saying you need a 300 dollar brush are coping
>>
>>98740305
I spent about 40 bucks on a timbertech chinesium airbrush and it's been an absolute tank. The expensive ones have some nice creature comforts that are convenient, but absolutely not necessary. The one thing I'll give you is that the upfront costs are high and the airbrush does require a dedicated hobby space.
>>
>>98740433
>My 50€ H&S works perfectly
And what H&S is that?

>>98740468
>The expensive ones have some nice creature comforts that are convenient, but absolutely not necessary
There's a lot more than that with expensive airbrushes.
>>
>>98740474
>And what H&S is that?
Ultra 2024
>>
>>98740492
>Ultra 2024
Doesn't cost $50.
And you can get a pretty major performance improvement with Evolution, not to mention the controls. Ultra is a great airbrush, but it's also one with training wheels. Claiming it's only for "Golden Demon level" doesn't make any sense.
>>
>>98740506
>Doesn't cost $50.
It did when I bought it.

>but it's also one with training wheels
How come?

>Claiming it's only for "Golden Demon level" doesn't make any sense.
What would a lower level painter need a better airbrush than this for?
>>
>>98740305
Not even rattlecan, i will not be subject to the whims of the weather.
brush-on primer is the one true way, it's fast, it's cheap it's simple and you can do it anywhere anytime.
>>
>>98740396
did you dip that in a bucket of house paint?
>>
>>98740560
there's always one retard like this
>>
>>98740492
$120 for just an airbrush, no compressor, line, nothing.
>>
File: 20260927_114754.jpg (2.26 MB, 4000x3000)
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Some progress over the weekend! Painting is a bit slow cus of work, but im liking how the dragon is shaping up

C&C?
>>
>>98740513
>How come?
That's the entire point of your airbrush, to teach you good airbrushing habits. It is why it won't let you pull back the trigger without the air flowing. Compared to that, Evo has an actual smooth, linear trigger. The needle can move a lot more, which is good for some techniques and for cleaning. There's also a fully linear limiter, instead of just steps like on Ultra.
There are more differences (like push-fit cups on Ultra vs. regular threaded on Evo).
IIRC (might be wrong here), Ultra comes with a 0.4 head, which is fine for basic stuff, but severely lacking for detail and hair-thin spraying.

You can mod the Ultra with Evo trigger and needle, but at that point, especially if you are a first time buyer, Evo is imo a more sensible option.
>>
File: 20260927_114808.jpg (3.24 MB, 4000x3000)
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Said dragon, think I need to brighten up the marble
>>
File: 20260927_114832.jpg (2.98 MB, 4000x3000)
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And a top pic
>>
>>98740578
>That's the entire point of your airbrush, to teach you good airbrushing habits.
Only if you plan on becoming extremely good and needing something more.
I fits multiple needles, I got a .4 and a .2
>>
>>98740578
Evo is at least twice the price at 200. That's not a first time buyer airbrush.
>>
>>98740600
>extremely good
Not really.

>>98740607
Why not? You won't break it, you can mod it quite a lot, every perishable part is easily replaceable. Evo is imo the definition of one time buy item and it will carry you through the entire learning curve without limiting you in any way.
>>
Whatever you do, don't buy a badger unless you can easily get spare parts
>>
>>98740627
... I am confused
All I do with badgers is shoot and eat them
>>
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>>98738385
And yellowed

This was the scariest part, but it actually went pretty easy.
>>
>>98737083
Clean!
>>
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>>
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I like how blue armour came out, even if glove is a bit messy. But I think that my hands shaking is purely psychical problem, they started to get worse the more I was worried about fucking up.
>>
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I will never freehand Imperial Roman shields again, holy fuck this was torture.
>>
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>>98740748

That's impressive freehand work, but why would you inflict that torment on yourself?

I finally started painting the glabrezus(?) today. The green-black one needs a much brighter green coat on its claws and carapace than it now has.
>>
>>98740612
Because most people don't wanna spend 200 on something they haven't even tried.
>>
>>98740825
It's a test model and my original motif was one of the Dura-Europos shields but it wasn't feasible for me to paint so I chose this "simpler" one. But honestly we don't develop our skills or as people unless we face great adversity.
>>
>>98735226
I wonder if Vallejo knows about this problem, but deliberately ignores it. I'd imagine that a public statement about it may mean a massive loss in sales. I do think AK and ArmyPainter did benefit heavily from Vallejo messing up their medium. What even were they trying to do if it was 'improving' the formula?
>>
>>98740305
you can get a good airbrush for $100. that's less than a combat patrol box, and even including the compressor and a fan to put in your window it's still less than a battleforce box. if you are complaining about the cost of tools you are too poor to be buying gw products to begin with.
>>
>>98740880
Who says I buy GW stuff? Why is this even an argument?
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>>98740846
>most people
That's not an argument.
>>
>>98740740
you made it look worse than your before picture again. what are you trying to do with the armor color?
>>
File: 20260927_221320-COLLAGE.jpg (1.09 MB, 2160x3240)
1.09 MB JPG
Okay, (female) Nokken is done. As usual, looks better to naked eye than on camera but I got used to that. Don't mind retarded stuff around the pics, apparently that's the only way Android photo can combine photos in other proportions than square.
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>>98740901
Keep it with previous guys style, at this point. But I don't really understand what you have in mind - it's blue armour so it should have high contrast, with exaggerated highlights, no? This whole NMM thing. I'm sorry but I don't know how else I was supposed to do them.
>>
File: blanechatsu.png (2.13 MB, 2518x1024)
2.13 MB PNG
I want to get better at painting but I am always unsure of how to really practice and improve. My friend gave me some models he didn't want anymore and I was considering practicing on these. I have my own models but they are all part of squads and what not and I felt my opportunity to experiment was limited. With these, I should be able to practice more. However, what can I do to challenge my self? I find that I have fallen into the path of "Base paint, maybe layer and then wash and drybrush". I do want to get more detailed and actually make presentable models instead of battlefield ready ones. One thing I know that unnerves me is painting flesh. I hate painting actual humanoid flesh but I want to learn. I find painting faces to be the worst. On any unit that has the option, I always assemble with helmets on. What are ways that I can gradually challenge my painting skills?
>>
>>98740897
Yes it is. The number of people who wanna jump in the deep end for 200 is small, so for most people, the evo is not a good starting option.
>>
>>98741186
The first step would be to not be detailed. That's a retarded noob obsession. For whatever reason new painters think being good is basecoating little details and doing subtle gradients that no one can see and don't look like anything.

Pick a surface on the mini, pick 4 very distinct colors (very dark, mid tone, much lighter and almost white). If the surface is round you make 3 concentric circles with a dot of the fourth color in the center. If it's a cylinder you do the same but with straightish lines.

From there you repeat the process and tweak the size and values of the lights and shadow up until you know how to paint.
>>
File: IMG_20260927_142001.jpg (2.35 MB, 4000x3000)
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Webs turned out very good. Old dryer sheets that are pulled apart slightly make very good looking webs.
>>
>>98741186
Look closely at paint jobs you think are cool and try to replicate parts of them, or even just look at (digital) paintings you like and try to replicate those styles on your models.
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>>98740231
I’ll give them some more dunnage in the back, where they can keep their valuables. But I’ll keep one with his bible out to make it evident. Just not sure where to mount a book on them.

>>98740246
Thanks. They were probably my major “need to have these bits” bitz for the whole sculpts.
That and the maxim guns.

Not sure on the rosary beads though, given they’re meant to be Church of England. Does TC have their split from the Vatican like irl or not?
>>
>>98741340
I dunno, I thought those were icons on their chest and that's a catholic thing? Maybe I'm wrong, I'm no expert on Christians.
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File: 20260927_174623.jpg (84 KB, 741x784)
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Making another custom rig for steel rift. I'm not terribly satisfied with this one either although I got the arm pods right. I really hate dealing with resin.
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>>98737915
People discovering inks?
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>>98738713
They are just ink washes
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>>98740734
Not bad
>>
File: PXL_20260927_221517729.MP.jpg (2.24 MB, 3000x4000)
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I am painting a wicked witch in honor of Halloween. Her skin's looking pretty disgusting and unhealthy, which I'm happy with.
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>>98741211
The amount of people wanting to do this or that is irrelevant when it comes to what is a good airbrush. "Starting airbrush" is a nonsensical way of thinking to begin with. It's an airbrush, it's not a car or something that you can actively damage or destroy by just doing beginner mistakes. I would even go as far and say that cheap airbrushes are generally the ones that are much easier to damage compared to HS (or Iwata) upper range ones, which are generally built to last. The only thing you can fuck up is your needle (and maybe o-rings), but that applies to all airbrushes.
>>
>>98741186
>paint the models however you want
>that is the practice
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>>98740565
Not mine. Someone discrediting the claims of the new tone pro stuff being "one thick coat" friendly.
>>
>>98740646
It looks cool, but definitely more chalky. Not sure if I like it that way until the rest is done, but so far I'm leaning more towards the way you usually did it.
>>
>>98741514
It's not 1990 anymore, a cheap GSI is as good as any over priced HS, and a gaahleri so close to these ot is barely noticable, buying an expensive airbrush is like buying an expensive machined and branded pen, totally unnecessary and will have almost zero affect on your handwriting
>>
>>98741548
Depends on what you want to do with it, obviously, but no, for no limit usage, neither of your claims are true.
>>
>>98741514
The point is investing in something you're not sure you'll like to use.
Someone who wants to try piano will get a cheap keyboard or a small hand me down, not a brand new grand piano.
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>>98741566
I thought we were talking about a normal adult person who knows what they are after. But yes, a $200 for an airbrush vs $80k for a grand piano is a fantastic comparison.
>>
>>98741562
You do not need a montblanc pen to write
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>>98741626
If you repeat that nonsense enough time, it will become true
>>
>>98741684
post your AB'd minis and prove us all wrong
>>
>>98741686
>post minis
Wouldn't it make more sense for you to post them? To demonstrate what can be done with a cheap airbrush?
You own an airbrush, right?
>>
>>98741711
>he can't do it
thought so
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>>98741361
Henry the 8th split from the Catholic Church and founded the Church of England so he could divorce his wife and remarry.
Church of England doesn’t have things like rosaries, indulgences or praying to saint stuff.
>>
>>98741722
No u
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File: IMG_1871.jpg (1.99 MB, 4032x3024)
1.99 MB JPG
>>98741722
>>98741748
>Neither of the two arguing retards can post minis.
Well waddaya know.

>inb4 you can’t either.
Pic as proof.
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>>98740897
>That's not an argument.
Look, if I *argue* with you, I've got to take up a contrary position!
>>
File: WoodElves.jpg (87 KB, 595x803)
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>>98741505
Thanks, it doesn't look like I'd want it yet but maybe if I try some OSL it will. I want super saiyan wood elves.
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File: big bee 4.jpg (295 KB, 1151x978)
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Coming along
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>>98741874
I think making the skin bluer/paper would make the yellow pop more
what is that mini?
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>>98741889
Almost tempted to dig up my leviathan minis... almost
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>>98741890
Well yeah of course but the thing is their skin isn't blue in the painting, it's on the grey side of yellowish green. I'd like to attempt to do the same instead of always going cold/warm/cold/warm. Granted the art gets the cold background so there's that.

The mini is from White Angel. The faces look a bit too masculine (still nowhere near as bad as GW) but I like the outfit and the poses.
>>
>>98741920
Not bad wardancer minis, apart from the goofy swords
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File: PH20260926_154908.png (3.79 MB, 1574x1501)
3.79 MB PNG
>>98741889
>>
>>98741934
They're a tiny bit too thick for my liking but it looks much better once printed and the female versions also have a spear which looks fine. (I didn't print the male version, having male dancers in your army is gay)

I also had Titan Forge Blade Dancers STLs but they look too zesty. Their other WE models are cool though.
>>
>>98741889
I think this looks really good.

>>98741874
Fuck elves

>>98741934
Are these elves? If the are, fuck elves.

>>98741938
ew, spider.

>>98741951
Elves?
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>>98741966
>Fuck elves
Don't, you'd be playing right into their hands.
>>
>>98741966
>ew, spider.
Spiders are friends.
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>>98741966
>Are these elves?
Nah they're orcs
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>>98741985
Yes.
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File: 02502.jpg (1.34 MB, 2128x2659)
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Speaking of elves, I never posted the final version of this
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File: blanchecrons.jpg (468 KB, 1919x963)
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Can anyone post minis in which you used a significant amount of green stuff putty for conversion etc? I just want to see what is possible with the stuff.
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>>98742093
GW minis were sculpted with greenstuff anon
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File: file.png (1.35 MB, 1808x1356)
1.35 MB PNG
Hobby ADHD has been in full swing recently, but I managed to get this shoota boy from black primer to almost finished in the span of an evening. Quite pleased with him so far; my orks are gonna be a Blood Axe spin-off clan, hence the somewhat more subdued colours (purple tiger-stripe "camo" aside).
>>
File: file.png (1.44 MB, 1808x1356)
1.44 MB PNG
>>98742110
Here he is from behind. Added red cases with yellow lightning bolts to the stikkbommz as a spot colour.
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>>98742093
Anything is possible
De Hoofdwerker on YouTube does extensive kitbashes, vallbjorn does fine work, and heaps of hand sculptors still exist
I have a huge folder of conversions I like
>>
>>98742110
I like Orkz when they use darker tones and colors like this. I think some Orkz strangely look too flashy lol. Good job.
>>
>>98742130
Thanks for the references.
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>>98742132
I like orkz
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>>98742154
You want more?
are you looking to sculpt entire minis? small conversions? or kitbashes?
either way best to start small
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>>98742132
Thanks anon! I tried very hard to make him look fairly muted/subdued but not full-on grimshart/muddy beige mess.
>>
File: jungle2.jpg (3.02 MB, 3024x4032)
3.02 MB JPG
SWAMP/JUNGLE
>need to make better trees
I need darkest heart of darkness, that's why the guardsman is unpainted and in the shadows
>>
File: IR_Annoited_Nurgle_USE.png (994 KB, 1003x1059)
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>>98742166
Yeah! I'd like more. I am looking to mostly do small conversions and kit bashes. This is actually one I did. Nothing massive.
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>>98742331
Is he a crab?
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>>98740304
the one on the right is giving me GSC vibes.
>>
>>98741543
I'd say they did that.
>>
File: P1040860.jpg (241 KB, 1080x1080)
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I painted up a Trollslayer/Not-Gotrek that my friend gifted to me. I wanted to do it justice out of sentimentality, but frankly I just don't like the layer lines as they're rough and it ruins the paintjob for me despite my best to work around it.

Still looks decent. I just feel I've done an above TTQ effort to make it look only passably TTQ. The striped pants were fun to do at least.
>>
>>98742354
Sort of lol! He is a Chaos Legionary Annointed which have a freakish daemon claw. I didn't have the actual model for that though and made that conversion instead.
>>
>>98742584
It's a terribly printed mini. It doesn't look like mdf line and I really don't know how resign layers could be so thick and visible.

No regret anon, throw that shit away, it's genuinely worthless.
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>>98742584
yeah... i don't know how your friend could have fucked it up so bad even at default settings, he must've increased his layer height for some asinine reason as well as not using antialiasing
that's less than a dollar of material no need to be sentimental
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>>98743034
nta, it's clearly mdf, it was just printed at an angle
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>>98743045
>mdf
that's pretty damn impressive for fibreboard.
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>>98740932
I tried to explain before but the in progress pictures look like blue armor. I can easily imagine it blown up to life size and it looking like real equipment. the finished paint job is more confusing. the armor has mixed colors, but not in a deliberate way like if it was a camo pattern. is it supposed to be dark blue that faded to light blue in certain areas? or light blue that is worn to dark blue in some spots? it's much harder for me to imagine what I'm supposed to be looking at.
>>
>>98741186
practice brush control. start with a piece of cardboard. paint a grid pattern on it trying to keep the lines as straight as possible without waviness or variation in line thickness. once you finish the grid practice filling in the squares with a different color to make a checkerboard without crossing any of the lines. when you can do this perfectly start doing it on the back of a plastic spoon. when you have mastered this you will be able to paint whatever details you want on your models.
>but that's boring and stupid
no it's like the kung fu movies where the old man make jackie chan fill buckets with water for months before teaching him how to punch. if you can put paint exactly where you want it and not where you don't then you can paint a model however you want. if you try to paint without being able to control where the paint goes it will look sloppy and bad no matter what techniques you were trying to use.
>>
>>98742331
Chaos is the best to learn kitbashing
take a look at the dutch guy I mentioned
>>
File: 1768880189389.jpg (278 KB, 950x1202)
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I'm still painting these legs. I don't see myself immediately painting another Warsuit after this.
>>98742031
Holy shit dude, the base alone is worth admiring.
>>
>>98743418
Shit anon, the subtlety of the nmm on those legs is making me hard. Saved for reference, in case miss the full paint job.
>>
File: big bee 6.jpg (453 KB, 1555x1390)
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I got a lot further this weekend than I expected.

The orange on the brains stands out WAY harder from the yellow to the eye, but my phone camera blends them together for some reason. Doesn't look a thing like it does in the picture.

I'm thinking of making the brains look wet.
>>
>>98743434
Thanks dude. It feels a lot easier to paint on the smaller sister models so trying to make the violet have a semi-gloss look at this scale was really testing my faith in trusting the process.
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>>98743501
Easier how?
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>>98743481
It really looks good and you should add some gloss to the brains. However, even with your camera problems I feel like orange just blends too much with the rest of the yellow and wouldn't read as an organ. Gloss would help but I would encourage trying to apply a thin purple glaze (or wash if you really want it orange). It may also help if the veins were an off colour.
Again, everything else looks mint.
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>>98743512
Personally, I find a smaller scale allows you to get away more with bad blends and pin point highlights. Where as on this larger model I am stressing more with that stuff.
>>
>>98743539
Well, that's good news, 'cause I got some deldar kabalites this would look good on.
>>
>>98738713
>shrink to the model
So self leveling?
>>
First time painting in 3 or 4 years... Admittedly cheapy craft paints and still waiting on bases and basing stuff etc... but a wip of my halfling captain. Should i stay quit?
>>
>>98744210
Pretty good for shitty paint. Whether you stay quit or not depends on if you enjoyed it.
>>
File: roy urquhart.jpg (362 KB, 1125x1414)
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>>98740393
good stuff! Always nice to see some historical here
>>
>>98740582
Dragon's like:"Dude, look over there!"

Cute stuff
>>
File: 20260928_223817.jpg (2.28 MB, 4000x3000)
2.28 MB JPG
Had the big idea on doing free hand golden plates on Lady Malys cape and doing NMM for the first time in the process.

I don't hate it. But NMM had me shitting my pants until I did that first outline touch up.
>>
Mr hobby fluorescent is pretty good
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>>98744906
uv reactive, right?
>>
File: 1787602594749795.jpg (4.77 MB, 3000x3138)
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>>98743271
Light blue is highlighting, darker blue is supposed to be shadows. I think I partially understand what you have in mind but at the same time, I cannot achieve necessary level of detailing to replace actual gradual lighting at this scale. What I have problem with is something like this Farsight I posted here before - he's bigger and I wanted to practice a bit with airbrush so I tried adding gradual lights, spraying dark (burnt) red over black primer, saturated red over from higher angles and gently with orange-red from the top, plus edge highlighting with more saturated orange-red. The goal was to make it subtle but as you can see, it's not actually visible at all - I might as as well just spray all over with base red shade and dryrbush with orange, the result would be the same. I have no doubt that true pros can pull out real gradual lighting in small scale or paint shadows without use of wash at all, like Jose Davinci or Angel G. But I also doubt that I will ever be even at 1/10 of that level and see only two options - no highlighting at all or exaggerated ones.
>>
New thread:

>>98745124
>>98745124
>>98745124
>>
>>98744502
only the outline looks metallic so it looks more like yellow checkers with gold thread borders than gold plates.

>>98744936
I see but it doesn't look like volumetric shading to me, just swirls of light and dark blue. that farsight looks more or less fine so I don't think you should worry about it.
>>
>>98744502
looks pretty cool. imo.
>>
>>98743293
jesus christ thats gorgeous



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