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File: 30 Minute Fantasy (Copy).jpg (1.63 MB, 1674x1440)
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>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

Discord
https://discord.gg/W973BmwERB

The guide:
Part 1 (Quick Start)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSBDfE8Iz-a86DZJCR5MHRW6tjkQX-y4-ZpUc_vHjRfx_i2FB0zR1usdrgUJ4wNTs1iDFZmTQHF66X_/pub

Part 2 (Deeper Dive)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQJG2SZo1O1PjExPrdU_-GnkrYTGiGLCgBcKaL4peEWxOGB4CNbpGaJBV1oF61eNE1lEhbQHYEAXLrw/pub

And a handy guide to other types of plamo: http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com

Some line art:
https://imgur.com/user/Gundaml1neart/posts


Previous thread: >>11634864
>>
== ACE CUSTOM GROUPBUILD ==

Build, customize, and paint a grunt mobile suit up for use by an ace pilot.
>You are taking the role of the Ace Pilot here - You're making the design choices when it comes to loadout, paint scheme, and suit customizations.
>Think about what your Ace specializes in, is he all in on offensive power, speed and maneuverability, or bulk and defense?
>While your pilot is an ace, he's not so special that he's getting super secret prototypes like Gundams or Mobile Armors. Keep your grunt relatively grounded to whatever setting it's from.

Send your entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com with at least 5 photos of your finished build along with any WIP photos and a description of your entry.
>START: 12/13/25
>END: 3/31/26
>>
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I haven't posted anything here in a while.
>>
The fad is over ...
>>
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This is actually fairly fun to build until you realize that seams need to be welded on the inside of the wheels, in between all those spokes.
Well then, time to paint.

Post WIPs.
>>
>>11657049
I've been working on my Wing Zero Ver Ka Recirculation.
I want to finish it today so can start my Fatcat God Gundam.
>>
>>11657144
Forgot my pic
>>
>>11657036
Model kits go 40% off at Hobby Lobby every two weeks nigga
>>
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>decide to do some Ali Express shopping for the first time in forever
>find some inner frame reinforcement parts for some RG kits, a few LED selections, and even some of those fancy spinning LED units that are specifically designed to be put in the GN Drives of the MG 00 Gundams
>but most of the good shit has absurd shipping charges, like it literally doubles the cost of the entire purchase

I just can't win.
>>
>>11657208
Can you get any discounts by making a new account?
>>
>>11657036
How do you figure
>>
>>11657215
Too much hassle, I can't be bothered. I'm planning to take a trip to visit family in Hong Kong this summer anyhow, so it's quite likely that I can obtain several of these at the source without needing to bother with tariffs or shipping. Not like I'm in a huge hurry, I'm just bitching and whining.
>>
>>11656605
Excellent detailing!

>>11656562
I need to invest in a better background if my pictures are going to keep getting used in the OP
>>
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Not gunpla but I don't know many other boards or generals that would reliably have many people with this figure: is the GMS Char Aznable very good? Screw holes aside, it's cheap enough but I don't know whether it'd be satisfying.
>>
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>AK pre-order

Bootlegers win again

>Titan blue

Was that even a thing in the show for hi Zack?
>>
Does a gunpla advent calendar exist?
>>
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Merry Christmas!
>>
>>11658074
Did they give up calling him 'Rockman'? Hope its a fun build Anon, post pics once you do.
>>
>>11658271
NM retarded me didn't see the top left. Still kinda funny that the overseas naming is more prominent than the native one.
>>
>>11657036
>Burglary dog
goddamn, that would be a find
>>
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Can someone with experience with LEDs tell me, is it possible to paint these with clear paints and not result in them looking like shit? All of the off-brand LED sellers have run out of colors that aren't red, green and orange, and I'm contemplating trying to do something like buying a red LED and painting with clear blue to see if it results in purple. But I don't know if it will even work, or if the heat from the LED will de-stabilize the paint, or anything like that.
>>
>>11658572
maybe try colored film first?
>>
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>>11658572
LEDs don't really get hot, but unlike incandescent bulbs, colored LEDs only output a pretty narrow band of wavelengths, so a red LED is only ever gonna output red light.
You'd have to get a white LED and coat it with purple paint in order for that to work.
>>
>>11656562
hey frens

gunpla is simply too expensive where i live - even importing it.

Are there any good knockoff options if i'd like to build giant robots but don't care about brand name?
>>
>>11658620
Pick up wood whittling?
>>
>>11658627
Pick up wood whittling.
>>
>>11658619
Cheap coloured LEDs are just white LEDs behind coloured plastic
>>
>>11658619
Welp, now you've made me glad that I bought two white LEDs, because now I have options.
>>
>>11658572
>All of the off-brand LED sellers have run out of colors
Is Aliexpress not available where you live?
>>
>>11658619
>LEDs don't really get hot
Is that why they put metal heat radiators on the back of LEDs? Try unscrewing a LED light bulb that's been on for a while, let us know how it feels.
>>
>>11658772
Ali is precisely where I was looking. All of the LEDs cost like $3 apiece now even if you get the special deals where you can waive the shipping cost.
>>
>>11658828
>All of the LEDs cost like $3 apiece now
anon, pls

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007349221273.html
>100 LEDs
>10 of each color
>$3.19
>>
>>11658828
>$3 apiece
Even on Amazon they are like 8 cents a piece, are you even trying?
https://www.amazon.com/CHANZON-PC-59042-Emitting-Assorted-Arduino/dp/B01AUI4VSI/
>>
>>11658848
I'm talking about the LED units that are designed to be put into MG kits. Which I assumed was implied by the attached image of said LED units.
>>
>>11658778
Not quite the same caliber as a standard-issue 3mm or 5mm LED like you get in those Gunpla LED units now, is it?
>>
>>11656562
Whats the best version of Gundam Alex thats out there? Can be third party or otherwise.
>>
>gf got me King Kittan model kit from Gurren Lagann
>excited, happy, ready to build
>open the box
>only 4 out of 5 boards
>missing the board that has the joints
>can build most of the pieces if I wish but can't finish it out
where would I go about getting just the joints for a kit? I don't even know how to begin searching for this, its my first model kit and the box is completely in Japanese except for "Kotobukiya" on the front and "plain model collection series non scale plastic kit 02".
>>
>>11658778
240V/110V mains power vs 1.5V watch battery
>>
>>11659212
ur fucked, koto doesn't keep molds around that long.
>>
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I LOVE GOOOOOOOOOOOOOLD
>>
>>11659238
>>
>>11659212
I just checked this kit on hobby search, the joints runner used here is polycap. Meaning that the size should be fairly universal and you might be able to find other kits released during the same period sharing similar polycap runner, and you can check the instruction manual for most kits on hobby search so you might want to check from there first. Though you need to be aware that polycap can deteriorate through time, so even if you find one, it might have started to deteriorate.

Alternatively you can search for independent joint set sold on the market now like hobby base joints or some 3d printed one, but dumbbell style joint is rare these days so you mind need some work in modding to get that.
>>
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>>11658271
>Hope its a fun build Anon, post pics once you do.
Thanks anon! It was pretty fun. The most noteworthy part of the build was that nearly every part is undergated. I have always wished for a kit like that in that regard. His engineering feels only slightly dated with its use of polycaps, and he still has a bit of that model kit feel when playing with him like an action figure. Overall Im very happy with the finished product. IMO he is the best looking MegaMan figure ever made
>>
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I don't have any experience in customization, so I need to ask here: I have some 30 Minutes Fantasy kits, is there anything simple I can do to prevent round weapon grips from rotating in their hands? It's annoying to have an axe flip around sideways when I'm trying to pose them. If you look at the shape of the inside of the hands, it seems like they were designed for rectangular grips so I don't know why Bandai doesn't just do that whenever possible. This is an issue for every Bandai line, I've noticed.
My first thought was that for my 30MF kits, if I glue the hand pieces in place, the friction might keep them from spinning, and all the weapon grips so far are designed where they can just be slid in and out, not locked in. But I want to hear from someone with more experience before I go ahead with anything.
Thanks in advance.
>>
Anyone own this? It's kinda pricey and doesn't look bigger than an HG.
>>
>>11659921
Couldn't you just cut some spruce cement it to the hilt and then sand it until it's to the tightness you want?
>>
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>>11659691
>>
>>11659922
>Anyone own this
Yes, it's a solid kit with some nice prepainted bits and both cloth and plastic cloaks. If you think that kit is pricey you're clearly too deep into Bandai's anus and should work on extracting yourself.
>>
Can I ask for something else here? Does building model kits help in anger management issues?
>>
>>11656562
Need some expert opinion on Hemoxian Baki and the company itself. Are they durable? Is the use of rubber in this figure a good idea in the long run? This is the first time I saw this in a model kit. I also plan on buying this as my first gunpla.
>>
>>11659954
I have several frame arms girls and megami device, what i mean the price for it's size, i haven't seen any size comparison to anything just promotional shots.
>>
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>>11660191
Wing Zero EW in black is cool.
>>
>>11660077
Quite an interesting choice for a first one. I'd probably get at least one smaller one just so you get the hang of cutting sprues, nubs, and what not.

I've only put together Tastier so far and he's holding up fine. The rubber parts make for some cool moving parts. The kit feels incredibly sturdy. You know when some people complain about the weight of kits? Not really a thing here. He's also big, holds together well, and (assuming you like the look and aesthetic) looks great.

They're fairly large kits, standing around 8" if I recall, and quite a few parts, so if it's your first it'll be quite a first go at things.
>>
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>>11660228
I was really impressed by the design and rubber parts. Look at this, his chest move when you wiggle them. I was already blown away with Storm's soft chest.
I watched a detailed review of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kPLr7GdwaU but one thing he did not cover is the playability and sturdiness of the figure. I thought about making Obelisk or Wargreymon as my first model kit but the reviews I watch says there articulation and durability are limited and that they are for posing once and displaying them.
The rubber parts are what worry me the most since they are unprecedented and I don't know if they would last long when played. (Im a noob so I dont know if this kind of gimmick is use before in other gunplas)
>>
>>11660222
What?
>>
>>11660276
He posted the MG Ver Ka Endless Waltz Wing Zero... In black.
>>
>>11660191
It's a bit taller than your average RX-78/GM and a bit thicker than a Zaku. But roughly HG sized.
>>
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>>11660267
>I thought about making Obelisk or Wargreymon as my first model kit but the reviews I watch says there articulation and durability are limited and that they are for posing once and displaying them.
Personally I'd go with a 30 minutes fantasy kit for an intro that you can pose.
Plus they're pretty cheap so you won't feel bad if you make a mistake or don't like the hobby.
>>
>>11660276
I didn't mean to reply, I was just phoneposting.
>>
>>11660267
Idk about Obelisk cause I haven't built it yet, but agreed that Wargreymon isn't the most fun thing to pose around. Plus it's a bit older and not as well made and sturdy as the more recent releases.

As mentioned about the rubber parts, still all good and holding strong on my Tastier, but who can really say for years in the future.

Agreed with >>11660304 if you want a poseable and simple kit just to get a handle of things. There's also various 30MM ones (I'd suggest the Maxion kits) that are good entry level kits. I personally think starting with a Hemoxian kit might be a bit daunting (huge box, tons of sprues, etc).
>>
>>11659931
I did consider increasing the thickness of the grips, but if you go overboard it'll just cause the hands to pop out. Changing the shape is what I'd like to do, I just genuinely have no idea how.
>>
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>>11660077
I haven't built this specific kit, but I have built Starflower Lily that's also by that company. I do not think it's a good entry level kit. Honestly, for all the (often justified) bitching about Bandai, their plamo are still the best for entry levels because they clearly did put a lot of effort into making their products accessible to a mainstream, casual crowd.

I'm gonna copy paste what I posted on /m/:
Anyway, fun build on the whole. With that said though, there are a few bits where the instructions in the manual aren't quite as useful. There were also some parts that were rather tight fit. You'll either have to sand some parts a little or slowly try to hammer some bits in very carefully. The gold ring in the lance for instance, I could only push it in halfway so I ended up having to build the other half of the lance, then sort of slowly 'hammer' down against the table to slowly get them all to fit.
>>
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>>11660610
Pic related, it tells you to shove H5 into 8-10.
Then shove H1 into 8-10.
Problem is H5 ends up blocking H1 so it's hard to squeeze H1 in and snap the entire bit.
The solution instead, was to shove H5 into H1 itself first, then shove the thing into 8-10.

Anyway on the whole I would still consider it a solid product, very detailed, very intricate and absolutely worth getting. But for a first kit, it might be rather overwhelming.
>>
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>>11660611
Even the manual is like 'forcefully install'. You will see this phrase several times.

But yeah, like what the other anons said, something like bandai's 30minutes missions/ fantasty/ sisters series or entry grade might be a better starting point. Or some high grade if there's a mobile suit you like.
>>
>>11656562
Guide for kit with articulated fingers??? Also butterf-
>Also better than this because it cannot grasp and has hook like link which can unplug easily but sure keeps it intact
>>
>>11660073
It really depends on what causes you to lose your temper.

Do you lose it over very minor things, then probably not. You'll make a mistake or two in the construction of a kit and those mistakes would likely set you off.
>>
>>11660073
You've literally asked this question before.
Go see a shrink instead, you loser.
>>
>>11660825
The last question is when depressed.

Eh, whatever. I have other things to deal with anyway. How would you want to see the classic Ronin Warriors cast as part of 30 Minutes Fantasy? Obviously they will make the Dark Warlords Premium Bandai, but I hope they make at least the five main Ronins and the Kikoutei as retail, complete with being compatible with Silhouette bodies from the main 30MF line.
>>
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WHO ELSE LOVES THE MUTHAFUCKIN' GOGG
>>
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some progress on the Jieda
>>
>>11660825
>Sounds angry
>But not
You are too fukin patronizing. This is why homosexuality came to be. Enjoy lying thru theisms I guess. Then again it's prolly your parent's.
>>
Red or black on mk2???
>>
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Not a very productive year.
A few projects still in the works, just need to finish them.
>>
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>>11660304
>>11660345
Alright I'll try some easier ones. But none of the 30 min kits interest me aside from the girls for customs but I think I'll try and buy one or two of pic related. The ships aren't articulated but I do like One Piece and they are the only model kit for them. Rishio and Number 57 are small, cheap and but looks cool enough when I saw their reviews all of which looks easy enough.

>>11660610
>There were also some parts that were rather tight fit. You'll either have to sand some parts a little or slowly try to hammer some bits in very carefully.
Is it possible to just put some shock oil or put them in hot water? In my short experience in toy collecting (I only started this year lol) when there is a tight part. Do I really have to sand them down?

>>11660612
>30minutes missions/ fantasty/ sisters
I might do that since there are girls in bikini that I would like to use for my figma custom. I would have to ask anons on figma general for that.
>>
>>11661296
what's this? Fullmech? Master Grade?
>>
>>11662139
The ships are pretty basic and easy to assemble, pretty sure you don't even need nippers as the parts pop off the runner
>>
>>11662206
Chinesium "original"
>>
>>11658074
this rocks!
>>
>>11662416
says there he's Megaman.
>>
Ever finish a build, set it for display, and come back later only to marvel at its construction? That was Shining Gundam for me this year. I’d go so far as to say it’s the best RG I’ve ever built, and that’s including Nu Gundam.
>>
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>>11660077
If it's anything like lone shadow, the build experience will be smooth. But unlike other chinese kits, they don't 99% undergate the parts. You should get a cheap HG or EG just to learn how to deal with nubs
>>
>>11662509
Am I crazy or is undergating more annoying. It's harder to cleanly cut it, and then you need to make sure it's flush or else parts usually won't fit together properly.
>>
>>11662588
I don't mind it most of the time, I use my knife to make sure there's nothing left. But sometimes it's done in spots where you can't even fit the tip of your nippers, it's infuriating
>>
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What is this
>>
>>11662906
Unicorn perfectibility. It's a gundam base exclusive.
>>
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>>11662370
>you don't even need nippers
Speaking of nippers. Should I get a branded nipper or a starter kit/all in one gunpla tool?

>>11662509
How often do you move him? How are the rubber parts? I plan on getting Rishio and Number 57 kits since they are cheap and look cool.
>>
>>11662924
If you're new, just get some cheap chinese nipper, it's fine as long as it's single bladed (this part is important, make sure it's not double bladed). Starter kits tend to be a shame/ overpriced compared to buying each part on their own. You also might not need all the stuff in the kit

I'll say you only need these to start with:
>single blade nipper
>xto knife
>cutting mat
>sandpaper/ sanding sponge
>maybe tweezers to deal with tiny parts/ stickers
>>
>>11662924
I usually do a lot of poses with my kits then settle on a display pose. The rubber parts are neat, they still hold up but I've only built the kit in october, it's probably too soon to tell. No parts are loose, yet. I also have one number 57 kit, sobek. Fit tights with the silver parts because the runners were painted, but otherwise nice small kit to work on
>>
>>11662944
>it's single bladed (this part is important, make sure it's not double bladed).
There are different nippers? Lol this just gets more complicated the more I look into it. Correct me if I'm wrong.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYTiQPf4iPU The guy in the vid is using single blade right? Is it really okay to use them on any runners. From what I understand single blade for small and clear parts while doubles are for medium and larger parts.

>>11662957
That's good to know. Have you encountered any tight fit when making Lone Shadow like with this anons Starflower Lily >>11660610

Question for both. What do you do when there's a tight fit? Do you heat them up with hairdryer/hot water or put shock oil like an action figure? Or maybe there are other action I don't know of.
>>
>>11662906
If I had to guess, I'd say a guy.
>>
>>11662977
Surprisingly I didn't encounter a single tight fit on lone shadow, which was a first because every chink kit always has a couple tight fits. There's several ways of dealing with tight fits, like sanding, cutting pegs 45°, glue or cement. If you forced two parts together and can't take them apart, a hairdryer or hot water might help, but more often than not you'll be fighting to take them apart with minimal damage
>>
>>11662924
Chinesium single bladed nippers will serve you well
>>
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>>11662977
With double blade, you risk sort of 'squeezing' rather than a 'true cut', which stresses the plastic and leave a more notable white marks due to said stress stretching the plastic. Single blade minimizes that, making it much easier to clean up. Hell, with single blade, you don't even need to sand as the nub marks won't be as noticeable if you're not looking at the kit too closely.

Single blade however, tend to be thinner and more fragile so generally people will suggest using generic hardware/DIY store double blade to cut out while leaving a little bit of nubs, then use single blade to trim off.

>Do you heat them up with hairdryer/hot water or put shock oil like an action figure?
I'm not sure about shock oil as I don't know if it's ok to leave it there long term once it's fitted in. Don't know about introducing heat either in terms of maintaining the plastic integrity. I actually didn't really sand the tight fits, it's more of a patience thing to slow fit them with minimal mods.
>>
>>11663004
>>11663014
From my experience with a Stedi, the cuts feel smooth but there's often a fair bit of cleanup to do. Usually less than my godhand double bladed, but nonetheless. I was expecting results of probably only high end ones.
>>
>>11662906
my husband and her favorite robot.
>>
>>11663014
>Single blade however, tend to be thinner and more fragile so generally people will suggest using generic hardware/DIY store double blade to cut out while leaving a little bit of nubs, then use single blade to trim off.
nta but i'm having an issue where the nub on the opposite side kind of bends off when i do the first cut. happens both with single bladed and double bladed nippers. how do i avoid that?
also, is there a functional difference between single bladed and double bladed for first cut?
>>
>>11662906
>tfw you will never spend all day fucking your faggot bf and building gunpla with him
He needs to lose the ring in his nose if he wants one on his finger though
>>
did Bandai ever make a shark or a shark inspired gundam?
>>
>>11663044
The chinese haven't beat SPN-120 godhands yet but you can get nippers around equal to the PN-120 (red handle) for like half the price from chinese brands
>>
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>>11663014
>Single blade however, tend to be thinner and more fragile so generally people will suggest using generic hardware/DIY store double blade to cut out while leaving a little bit of nubs, then use single blade to trim off.
Yes that's how I interpret it when people suggest to use two nippers.
But how do this youtubers do it with their asmr build reviews? They make it look so easy by using only 1 nipper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4K_ZJuUjvw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWtoyBso7fw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2rbtpotpXQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC7OOfcurkY
>>
>>11663127
Single bladed nippers aren't that fragile, you'll only really have problems with SPN-120s if you're trying to cut through thick runners or thick clear plastic
>>
>>11663074
I think that bending is usually caused by the runner trapping the piece (although I feel it's mostly an issue with softer plastic, like Warhammer or whatever), so you could cut the runner apart with your double bladed nippers before trying to free the piece. People suggest to use double bladed nippers for the first cut like that because you want to keep your single bladed nippers sharp so you save them for the most critical cut, and also they are relatively weak, so can be damaged by cutting larger pieces.
>>
>>11656562
I just started doing this stuff the other day
Did one 30M snap kit from Bandai then moved onto some tamiya ww2 aircraft, now sizing up the gundam strike mg I got for Christmas
I feel old af doing this but it is satisfying
>>
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>>11663222
For what it's worth here is was before I removed the tape and found that my glue had sharted up the cockpit visor/window and now it looks like a bit of a wreckage
>>
Fat Cat God Gundam is done. Perfect build to start the year with.
>>
>>11663427
>bare unpainted plastic
>done
I kid. But seriously though, I don't know how anyone tolerates this thing being the wrong size.
>>
>>11663188
>so you could cut the runner apart with your double bladed nippers before trying to free the piece
i'll give that a try. perhaps it's not a big issue anyway, it doesn't leave a big mark somehow
>so can be damaged by cutting larger pieces.
would that be the only concern, or do double bladed nippers for the first cut produce less stress? i've got a spn-120 for the second cut but i also have the pn-120 which i currently use for the first one. having the spn, i wouldn't use the pn for the second cut now, so i decided to use them for the first. would there be any upside in switching to double bladed?
>>
>>11663434
>I don't know how anyone tolerates this thing being the wrong size.
Hey, it's all proportionate.
>>
>>11663127
>But how do this youtubers do it with their asmr build reviews? They make it look so easy by using only 1 nipper.
Experience.
If you look at vids of older dudes building military vehicles/ trains, you'll even see them using generic craft paints, generic hardware store tools and basically no hobby specific brand products. True Mastery of the craft.
>>
>>11663634
Nippers don't matter that much when you're sanding/priming/painting everything like military kits which is most people don't do for gunpla hence why you want to do as little damage to the plastic as possible
>>
What are some of the gunpla with articulated fingers(also holds)? I know ver.ka(all of em?) mgs and jesta mg apparently has, but then fms and then other mgs like ailes do not? I also has small 144 hg/rg art-fingers but they barely hold(actually, haven't tried em properly, misbuilded the ball joints)
What are your suggestion? Please share! Cheers.
>>
>>11663745
It's called Emotion Manipulator SP (MP1 for Federation, MP2 for Zeon), and it's mostly the 2013 MG kits (and the ones based on them) that have them. If you want extras they're sold at Gundam Base, though occasionally they make it to P-Bandai as well.

For other options, there's a third-party Chinese company that sells various flavorings of Emotion Manipulator style hands, both for 1/100 and 1/144. But it's pretty expensive, something like $12 per pair of hands. I just happened to find them on Ali Express while doing my holiday shopping.
>>
>>11663700
>Nippers don't matter that much when you're sanding/priming/painting everything
Unless the part is so tiny that dull/thick nipper blades can literally break it in half while still on the runner.
>>
>>11663758 is this what you mean? https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/1gulsk6/unpopular_opinion_i_really_like_the_emotion/ seems like it includes other things too. Pretty funky, are they sturdy? The one I haz are rather hooky, which plugs and unplugs alot. I worry it just don't last, but then again, plastics, right?
>>
So Dspiae is now selling cleaning slime. What are your thoughts?
Would this be a good cleaning solution for models? Or is it more likely to do damage than to actually help? Or maybe it's just a gimmicky product with no real application?
Also fuck the new captcha holy shit.
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>>11664609
I've been using cleaning gel for many years now, it's very convenient for removing sanding dust and small debris off parts and tools, especially when working with resin (when you don't want the dust to get airborne).

As for the DSPIAE branded gel, I don't see the reason to pay more for the same stuff when cheaper generic options exist. I'm surprised it took them this long to release it though, Japanese manufacturers had the gels available for years (and with a nice sake smell too).
>>
>>11664636
>I don't see the reason to pay more for the same stuff when cheaper generic options exist.

That's dispiae's entire business model
>>
>>11664636
Ohh that's neat. Can I ask a couple of questions?
One, do you think this is a better cleaning option for files (metal and glass) and sanding sticks than water and a brush?
Two, what's the best "bang for your buck" brand for cleaning gel?
>>
>>11664639
Not always. They do make some things noone else makes or with better quality/materials than generic makers (steel vises, etc).

>>11664662
>better cleaning option
Yes, because the tool is immediately available for you to continue using vs going to the sink, washing, drying etc.

>best "bang for your buck" brand
Last time I bought from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007127703405.html (4 jar package)
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Post the most inconveniently placed nub of 2026.
I'll start.
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hello anons. first kit. did not want to ruin it by painting (have never painted before), but I wanted to try a pin wash. how did I do?
realized too late that I should have used black instead of brown, it looked rusty. I panicked and may have removed too much paint.
>>
>>11664820
looks greasier than Randy Pitchford
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>>11664826
they're oil paints heavily diluted in linseed oil. been a few days and it's still oily to the touch.
may have overdone it
>>11663230
very nice, anon, what paints did you use?
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>>11664820
>first ki
>ship
ambitious
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>>11661296
it can stand up
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>>11665059
>>
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>>11665060
quite big compared to the 1/100 fatcat rx-78
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This bike is bigger than I thought it would be but it fits perfectly.
I'm going to eventually paint it purple and black to match and maybe get another to go with Acerby D
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>>11665161
There's also the Boost Wild bike that came out recently if you want something with more of a military look.
>>
>>11665168
Might look nice with a Spinatio and a coat of green.
>>
Is there anywhere in the US selling the hguc psycho mk ii for less than 100$?
>>
>>11662383
Surprisingly restrained for a Chinese redesign.
I'd have expected a lot more panel lines and other senseless greebles.
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>>11659691
Damn, what the hell this looks so nice. How's EXE in comparison? Do you have him?
>>
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>>11665446
>>11665061
it is a very simple kit, more akin to a very big HG in my opinion
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>>11665818
I recommend it if you want something big and a bit more exciting than the average grunt
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>>11665818
good shit. i want to do kits in olive like that if i ever get an airbrush
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>>11664829
Oh thanks
I actually used the citadel leadbelcher and mephiston red for the body (warhammer paint) then tamiya acrylics for details, gun metal and sea blue

In hindsight when mixing types I would go purely alcohol based paints first, water second since paint thinner for alc. Will strip the water based ones and sometimes the primer with it.
But I found no major issues with doubling up, hell even the particles from the leadbelcher shone through on the flat colour areas which surprised me.
>>
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>>11666232
Also the stickers gave me a hell of a time
It was a Christmas card to my dad who likes ww2 generally and since the kit was only 15 bucks I was a little less hesitant to do this before fixing it to a mechanical base

As to how the bottom got sprayed, well there were probably a few ways to do that (also I'm sorry if this is an abomination) but I 3d printed a stencil in tpu (basically like rubber)and taped off the rest then gave it a quick go


>>11665818
This is awesome btw, that colour, damn
>>
>>11665818
>>11665821
>>11666238
Love the rust and scratch details you added, anon
>>
No pictures because I lost my phone to a snow drift but I just finished the 30mm Levinix type-a and while initially not fond of the kit because of it's white and energy weapon aesthetic I'm now obsessed after discovering it's got two fuckhuge revolvers.

I've done the HG heavy arms, gouf custom, and some weird gashapon skull soldiers. I find myself in an add spot because I really like blockier military aesthetic non-hero units.

I suppose I'm looking for some suggestions. I'm planning on building a little army of 30mm as a custom unit, as I've never done any painting or water slides.

I've got a vested interest in Hexagear and 57 armored puppets. Looking for things that aren't too sleek, heavy weapon count, that sort of mecha aesthetic where there's like a rounded bar around the joints?

Honestly just excited to talk about robots.
>>
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Was picking through my box of extra parts and decided to see what I could make out of them...ended up with some sort of hover chair?
Also threw my leftor Sisters parts together for a Sis to drive it.
>>
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>>11666062
>>11666439
thanks
it is literally an out of the box (or bag in this case as aliexpress sellers rarely include the box) build

no paint was involved, only a bit of black weathering from mr hobby you apply with a brush to darken the surface, remove the excess with a sponge and then add random bits of silver paint in the edges and some surfaces

here it is under direct sunlight, the actual color the kit comes molded in is green mint as seen here >>11661296
>>
Are aliexpress decals good?
>>
>>11667161
As with anything from Aliexpress, it depends
>>
>>11667156
got me fooled good, i looked at >>11661296 and the shade looked so much different heh. still nice weathering anon
>>
>>11667165
Oh, sorry, I don't see much variety. These ones? I know I could find the real ones somewhere but I'm not willing to pay much + shipping for that
>>
>>11666590
Obviously, any Number 57 stuff can be modified with paint to fit a certain aesthetic. The more recent Oni and Police robots with their new pre-assembled inner frame have good stature and could go well with the 30MM kit you have. I’d also recommend the soldier kits, though they come with a lot of armor options that change them from snipers to scouts. If you have spare inner frames, the Hunting Tooth bike/beast kit comes with a nice soldier armor set, as well.

I would recommend Gray Baskyrottos, though.
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>>11667613
I see those stocked by Euro shops too so they must not be too bad.
>>
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Let's say you have a kit that is supposed to have an instrument panel, but the part is just a blank smooth piece and there are no decals for the instruments.
What are you even supposed to do in a situation like that?

Post WIPs.
>>
>>11668063
Many thanks!
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>>11667613
Flaming snow is good. Used them a couple of times
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>>11668374
you frighten me.
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>>11668374
I feel like you should have painted it black first and then glued it on. Maybe dip the needles in red too.
>>
>>11670003
Gluing stuff on top of painted surfaces never really works so well. Painting it afterwards is safer and cleaner.

>dip the needles in red too
All in good time.
>>
>>11670110
Yeah I suppose you could just take off the paint to bring out the silver too if you don't just paint it a different color anyway.
>>
Does anyone know if/how often SNAA reprints kits?
>>
>>11658620
there are cheap bootlegs all over aliexpress and there are also chinese companies selling cheaper-than-bandai original designs. SNAA makes a few rg-sized kits with their knights of the round table (they're pretty cool), otherwise most chinese plamo is MG-sized and/or girlpla
>>
it's not a chinese redesign, it's an injection-molded bootleg of a 3d print kit from https://www.patreon.com/rockyq_mechaaddict
>>
Recently got into the hobby, ordered a basic hobby tools, some markers, sanding sponges and single blade nippers
Any recommendations on mats? Not too familiar with what I should be looking for when it comes to purchasing one
>>
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I just finished my first model kit. I understand the appeal now. Being super focus even for half an hour is really fun. The anons here were right I only needed the single blade nipper. I only used the double blade nipper maybe twice against a part with a nub in an unusual angle.
Cutting the parts and fitting them was no big deal but snapping the parts together on the ball joints was scary. My only real problem is space to put the runners.
Overall the experience was enjoyable. Should I jump in on Hemoxian Baki now or should I practice more on easy kits?
>>
>>11671450
whoops meant this for >>11665446

>>11664829
>oil paints heavily diluted in linseed oil
You should consider using enamel thinner instead. Afaik that's what tank/plane/boat guys usually use to dilute oil paints for washes and it should evaporate away and dry much faster. Painting on plastic is different from painting on canvas after all.
>>
>>11671961
>You should consider using enamel thinner instead.
Odorless turpenoid (also known as MrWeathering Color Solvent) is a much better thinner for oil paints and much safer on plastic than enamel thinner.
>>
>>11671778
>My only real problem is space to put the runners.
You can get holders or even just use cut some of the cardboard from the box to make one.
>>
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RG Wing Zero TV WIP
I can already tell this is going to be one of my favorites, it feels solid already.
>>
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>read the crossbone steel 7 manga
>really dig the whole final battle
>only 4 of the 7 suits got plamos, but only 2 of them are regular releases (Full Cloth and the old Harrison's F91)
>2 of them are fucking P Bandai: The F90 with the assault pack and Giri's Vigna Gina II, my favorite one is a super rare kit that goes for over the 20k yen mark in the sites that even have it

being a late UC fan is really cursed
>>
I'm so pumped. I'm thinking this is going to be my second or third model kit. Anyone here who has experience with nuke matrix?
>>
>>11672345
I built the FOX girl kit they released years ago, pretty good with all the extras and display options but balance was an issue with the small feet
But this kamen rider one seems of way better quality and the henshin form and the bike look really sick
>>
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>>11672361
Yeah, she looks really cool and sexy plus very and you get two figures and a bike. Im going to get her a replacement for buzzmod ryuko. Any issues to look out for? Like the clothes staining or tight fit?

Her review is out by the way. Kind of disappointing she doesnt have panties. Any recommendations for a replacement? Preferably striped.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBOJ3ykXevo
>>
>>11672345
I bought the Starflower Lilly as my first girlpla, and this is really starting to look like it's going to be my second.
>>
>>11672372
the jacket does look very nice, dunno how durable the fabric will be
the FOX girl I have came only with a little scarf
>>
>>11672372
You could probably find third-party underwear on Ali Express. Assuming that these girlpla are of a standardized size, you may even be able to find all kinds of variety of women's wear for them.
>>
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>>11672378
You should, she's really cheap and looks simple enough (lol, even though i only made one so far)

>>11672382
>>11672392
How about more blank faces that is compatible with this kit? A lot of this decals looks pretty cute but the blank faces available are very limited. It would be cool if I can apply all of the decals on different faces. I would hate to choose from them.
Also any tips for applying water decals? The advice regarding single and double edge nippers earlier were really helpful. I already have tweezers from the model starter kit I bought though. What else should I know?
>>
>>11672411
I'd put money down that third-party companies on Ali Express sell extra face pieces. Worse comes to worst, you could learn how to make molds and copy the pieces directly, like Oyumaru and melted runner goo. I'm currently learning how to make silicone molds and resin casts to duplicate parts on System Weapon kits, since those things give you like one weapon pistol grip but three different ways to build around it.

As for applying waterslides, it's really easy. Just cut out the segment you want to apply, soak it in water for like 15 seconds and pull it out for another 15 seconds, dab some mark setter on the surface you want to apply the waterslide to, slide the decal from the paper onto the piece, push out the air bubbles with something soft like a q-tip, and finally spray the surface with some top coat to protect the decal.
>>
>>11672434
Thanks, appreciate the effort post.
>>
>>11672345
In terms of Chinese girlpla, they're one of the best. Just a tad below Kotobukiya's when it comes to QC. Can't go wrong with them.
>>
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>>11672372
>>11672392
So this is how they get you. It starts with "I want to get some underwear for my action girlpla so that she's at least semi-decent when doing kick poses in her miniskirt." And it ends with "I am now playing dress-up with 6-inch girl dolls because holy shit that's a lot of detail for doll clothes and goddamn it looks cool and cute."
>>
>>11672998
and then you discover custom parts like these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007002165783.html
>>
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>>11672009
I might display it with my RG Epyon in fighting poses when I've made the rifle and shield.
>>
How do I cope with not having a spray booth? I don't want to spray shit in my shared backyard either my neighbors will make fun of me
>>
>>11673627
Jury rig a set up with a cheap extractor fan, a cardboard box and a tube
>>
>>11673627
>How do I cope with not having a spray booth
why not build one?
>>
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Completed my first ever build
>>
>>11673655
>>11673676
I don't have a spare window to do this at
>>
>>11673721
Love me a z'gok.
You should try the two-cut method for nipping parts off the runner and removing nubs though. You've got some big chunky ones still on there.
>>
>>11673856
I've got a scalpel I try to cut excess bits off with, but I'm not great with it. Cut my finger while making this one, there might still be some blood on it but I can't tell because it's red lol
>>
>>11673861
with a scalpel or hobby knife you mainly wanna use it for shaving off the last millimeter of plastic or so after cutting it short with your nippers, just to get a smooth surface
you don't really wanna use it for cutting through large solid bits of plastic
>>
>>11673747
Do you live in a closet?
>>
>>11673861
>there might still be some blood on it but I can't tell because it's red lol
That's fine, it's just going to imbue it with life.
>>
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Boy'z go(k)t some moves
>>
>>11657049
This is the Volks 1/24 Testarossa from Votoms Blue Knight Berserga. Im planning on adding this 3d printed 1/100 cannon to the back, and adding smoke launchers to the left of the chest and a small gatling gun to the right. The paint scheme will be in Melkia army colors (Purple). The chest has the worse fitting issues. I hope the hand scale frame arms girl will fit in this.
>>
>>11673627
Stop caring about what your neighbors think and while you're at it get a big fan to redirect the toxic fumes directly in their face
>>
>>11674565
antagonizing people around you is how you get your body parts found in a landfill, anon
>>
>>11674589
Plastic robots protect their maker
>>
New thread: >>11674797
>>
>>11673627
you can stick to acrylics and spray into a cardboard box "spray booth" in your garage with a fan going



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