Ok so is picrel good for a beginner 3d printing toys? I've seen videos of it printing pretty good quality WH minis with its 0.2 nozzle and I thought that looks pretty good, not that I'm into WH at all but if it can print minis then it definitely handle what I have in mind. What I'm planning to do is mostly print 1/12 figure joints and parts, custom gunpla parts, replacements, etc at the same I want a solid beginner printer. Picrel good or nah? It's at about the max upper limit of my budget, as I don't have plans to get too deep into 3D printing. I don't mind print times at all. Feel free to recommend other brands as well.Also 3D print general I guess? I don't see one
>>11699091bambulab A1 mini btw
>>11699091I'm kinda a beginner 3D printer. Got H2D like a month ago. Done some printing already and from what I know, stuff like joints should be printed in ABS, and it requires enclosed printer as it needs higher temps to print properly. So with cheaper printers you may be forced to use PETG instead. I used it myself and so far it works as intended and I don't see any wear. However, people who make 3D printed action figures, like Dummy 13, say ABS is kinda a must if you want strong and long lasting joints.Bambu is popular for a reason, it's just good. You don't have to twiddle and tweak much to use it. It's pretty beginner friendly. So yeah, it's a good printer for a start.But before you buy, if you know someone who has a 3D printer or a service who do print, design some joints and parts and send them to print, so you can see yourself if it's the stuff you are looking for. Resin printers will always give more detail, even 0.2mm nozzle wont give you same results.
>>11699091No you need a resin printer for small volume items like joints/action figures, this won't work. Bambu fdm printers are good generally though. I have the full size A1 that I use to make dioramas and props for my figures
>>11699091Get a resin printer for making joints durable (look at resins like Tough 74 from Resione for instance that are developed for this very purpose) and for smooth looking parts. A FDM printer will never be adequate for anything you want to paint if you want it to look good and not have the little layer liens visible.
>>11699152>Tough 74 from ResioneHave you used it yourself? Youtuber called Azrach Toys does action-figures in resin. Joints seem really really brittle, and with time, they just get stuck.
>>11699157Ive never heard of resin like that getting stuck. If he designed the joints differently, they'd prob function better too. Like if he kept the joint itself pure Tough 74 but had the limb parts around it that it plug into be slightly softer or more flexible.
>>11699187This is the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWON9vhiTqE&t=575sI'm gonna get a resin printer this year, so will test it out myself. Don't know which brand to pick yet, I like the resin 3D prints but I just hate post-processing and all the mess that comes with it.
>>11699091>It's at about the max upper limit of my budget>bambulab A1 mini Not sure why the usual retards are recommending you $50 bottles of resin when you can barely swing a $220 printer. You want a Rolls Royce on a bicycle budget dude. If you want to work with Engineering Quality you have to pay Engineering prices. You can work with BasicBitch filament or resins, but if you want to get in to ABS filament or fancy resins you need a much bigger budget. Why waste time telling you about the Big Dog stuff that's way outside your range?>Azrach Toys breaking resin figuresyeah, and if you actually pay attention to his videos he SPECIFICALLY says he suspects his own engineering on his joints is highly suspect. You can break literally every injection-molded plastic piece if the engineering is bad and stresses weak points. And again, it looks like the higher end resins he works with is outside your budget.> I don't have plans to get too deep into 3D printing. Why the fuck not??? Once you're in it, you grasp just how unbelievably liberating it is. If the Bambu A1 Mini is the height of your budget, get it. Learn what you're doing. Stick with the $12 rolls of PLA filiment on Amazon. Buy some older Marvel Legends and 3d print some new heads while keeping the production quality joints until you can upgrade your gear. Among all of my printers I have the non-mini standard A1 and I use it the most just because its a great machine, and my Elegoo Saturn 4 16k ultra because I need the heated resin vat but its a beast that needs fed and I need a minimum of 2L of resin because it takes about 1L of resin to fill to the "minimum" line and I need a 2nd liter to top it off after prints.TL;DR quit trying to Run before you even know how to crawl.
>>11699219>the usual retards >you actually pay attention >Why the fuck not??? >quit trying to Run before you even know how to crawlWhy all this hostility? You wouldn't dare to talk like that face to face, so quit it and be civilized.You didn't show any of your prints, are you all talk? Show us some of your 3D printed action figures, so we can see how it's done.
>>11699232>You didn't show any of your prints, are you all talk? Show us some of your 3D printed action figures, so we can see how it's done.I'm not the hostile anon, but if you are OP, what are you even doing? OP asked a few questions and sought answers. Why should anyone have to prove they can print stuff in order for their info to be taken seriously? I also agrees with hostile anon. If OP can't afford much more than a $200 filament printer, resin printers for joints is not for them either. The special resins with specific properties such as wear resistance are at least $40-50 per liter so that along with the usual supplies for resin printing (curing station, lots of IPA for washing, paper towels, gloves, etc) will certainly put it out of OP's budget
Beginner printer anons, op is looking for advice on beginner printers and if they can fulfill his purpose of action figure parts, joints and accessories.That being said, anything is good enough to get started. They are tools, and 95% of getting good use out of a tool is the knowledge on how to use it. OP, i used the shittiest basic resin, on a $150 resin anycubic printer and could EASILY knock stuff out like this.Now if you want precision stuff like what you see in this >>11699197 video, yeah you'll want to buy the expensive specific type of resin and then tune your printer for that profile.i cant speak for FDM printers as i only print in resin, but the A1mini looks absolutely fine for your first printer. The only advice i can really give for any 3d printing, is get the largest build plate you can afford, nothing else matters.
>>11699232>Why all this hostility?Because you have unrealistic expectations and you should be grateful for my actual advice. I'm closing this thread now, I'm done here because you're fucking retarded and can't even cope with being told to learn how to crawl before you can run. You're an idiot.and not worth my time. And yes, many of those giving advice here are also retarded and cannot even unto basic reading comprehension. Its like watching retards trying to take turns fucking a doorknob.
>>11699127I've tried designing and printing petg joints on a figure that had a joint turn to dust and petg isn't worth a fuck for figure joints. Its stronger than pla but not strong enough to do anything but stand
>>11699438> but not strong enough to do anything but standThis is all PLA printers mostly. Filament crap is cheaper for a reason. Resin looks so much better and you can actually make functional parts with it that look like real figures.
>>11699091>What I'm planning to do is mostly print 1/12 figure joints and parts, custom gunpla parts, replacements, etc at theInjection molded joints require +/- 0.005mm precision to work
