As a gym climber who now goes outdoors once a month, how can I excel at outdoor climbs? Pumping out is less of an issue for me than finger strength. Devils lake is kicking my ass right now, but in a good way. I liked breaking the beta at certain times, but some routes just seem to demand pulling your entire bw on nickel crimps

Have just had two absolute banger sessoins over the last couple of days, and ticked off 21 benchmark 7a+'s on the 2024 mb. 5 remaining now, all of which will probably take me a little bit of projecting, but super phyched to move on to the 7b's!!
Favourite one I sent was shark bite.
>>243699
Board training

>>243714
>Board training
Bro literally what? The crimps on that suck. In fact I just tried a moonboard at 40degrees (newest set), jfc I can't even do a V4. The crimps are too fucking hard. I can do them like once or twice, but then after a few attempts, literally all the cruxes become impossible.

>>243741
Go to the spraywall and create your own boulders. Make them from decent holds but add one or two crimps that are hard for you. Make it so you are able to do them in a few tries. Not some insanely hard project. Eventually you can add more crimps and harder crimps to the boulders.
I used to make 2 boulders for this when I started, each one had a bad crimp for each hand so I train them more or less equally. Plus, creating the problems yourself is fun.

>>243699
Over gripping is common moving from indoors to outdoors. It's good to practice indoors and out on relaxing on the holds, seeing how little strength you can exert while still holding on. Might help you

>>243741
>The crimps on that suck
Thats the point

>>243741
>newest set
>can't even do a V4
>The crimps are too fucking hard
Lmao try the 2016 or 2019 version then, they're even more brutal.
But it's a fantastic training tool for finger strength, body tension and pure fucking power.
Probably nothing better to train for hard outdoor boulders than the moonboard.

I live in Russia and have been rock climbing for four years now (for the last year, I've been going to the gym once a week. I know it's not enough, but I devote as much time as I have). I weigh only 65 kg and am 180 cm tall, but I can easily climb 6B+ and, with difficulty, 7A. So, I agree with the author: the entry barrier to this sport is very low (unless you're wheelchair-bound, of course).

I'm using a translator, so errors are possible :)

>>243804
This is such beginner advice, appreciated, but hardly useful. I'm no stranger to climbing outdoors, I just hardly get to do it because I'm a midwest fag with Governor's dodge and Devil's Lake being my closest to me (and both 3+ hours away). But I'm trying to atone for my faggot living situation by choosing to drive to explore more.

Devils lake has some nice climbs (sandbagged as fuck). I could project their 5.10a's and 5.10bs, but jesus christ, the 5.10c felt like my gym 5.11d. The crimps on this glassy ass rock are kicking my ass. I straight up could not get up even with 20 takes. 5mm crimps go crazy, when you have next to no feet to use. Maybe an /out/ gentleman can help me.

Picture this. There's this climb you really want to do. And you and your friends start it at the same time. You can barely do the first move, it takes everything you have, but then your friends get the entire climb first. So you relax, assume you'll get it next session. But then you don't. Then you can only get another sequence. Then repeat this for months.

Wouldn't you be frustrated? When you can never guarantee a send? When it gets taken off the wall and replaced by another boulder before you had time to do half of it? Don't you think that's so frustrating? Then you tell me not to compare, but then literally everyone I climb with is able to do it effortlessly. And when I say that, No, I don't think they aren't trying. But they aren't trying as hard as ME. I WANT it. I give it my all. I climb until I'm physically unable to. ANd no matter how much I want it, or put effort into it, it gets me little progress. But literally nobody else seems to have this issue, or even care about it at all. Then, whenever I ask someone for advice, they give me some random vapid explanation and expect it to work the first time.

Regardless of whether or not you experienced this, don't you think that this would make someone frustrated?

tfw crushed my pinky while failing to properly rerack a 60lb dumbbell and now it hurts to use it while climbing
time to 3 finger drag everything I guess

>>243943
>The chad 3 finger dragger versus the virgin half crimper.
Based.
>>243940
Look bro, what you're feeling is real, but fixation will actively fuck you over. You literally said it yourself
>Add no matter how much I want it, or put effort into it, it gets me little progress.
You probably are progressing, just slowly. Confirmation bias hits hard when you climb solo, try climbing with people at your level. But pretty much every gym bro goes through that. Climbing outdoors will make it so you never feel like that, because you're too busy having fun that the progress just comes by itself. I know its gonna hurt to hear this but for your own sake just keep climbing. Climb to have FUN.

>>243940
People that fail to progress despite giving lots of effort, especially newbies, are almost always missing something fundamental about training. Either they don't know what's missing, or they know and tell themselves that somehow that fundamental principle isn't important or doesn't apply to them

I won't claim to know your situation, but I would put money on the fact that you're missing something crucial.

Trying hard is no guarantee for success. If you were to park your ass under a v15, you can try as hard as you want, you would never ever make progress on it if you didn't have the skills and strength needed to pull and move between the holds. In this situation, you could easily be frustrated, but no amount of effort would be enough to overcome your deficiency. It's not always a matter of effort.

I've been climbing for a long time and I often see people in the gym spinning their wheels. Same problems, year in and year out. Usually noobs make the following crucial mistakes:

>they have no concept of rest between attempts
>they consistently select problems that are too easy or too hard
>they don't attempt to make a mental model of their climbs and just wing it every time, no strategy
>they aren't aware of or ignore their weaknesses
>they are physically very weak and don't bother doing targeted training to address it

>>243835
how do you get used to the crimps? My fingers slip the fuck off.

>>243946
>they have no concept of rest between attempts
I rest at least 3 minutes, sometimes 5 between boulders.
>they consistently select problems that are too easy or too hard
How do you make this determination? This is completely subjective.
>they don't attempt to make a mental model of their climbs and just wing it every time, no strategy
Probably my biggest weakness. Sometimes I record myself, but oftentimes I'm employing beta someone else is doing and I can't execute it because of strength.
>they aren't aware of or ignore their weaknesses
I get criticized by my friends for saying my finger strength is a weakness.
>they are physically very weak and don't bother doing targeted training to address it
Doesn't apply to me. I'm a meatball, used to lift before climbing. I have benched, squatted, deadlifted, and overheadpressed more than 95% of climbers ever will. But my fingers are dogshit.

I get stuck on single problems on kilter for months, just because there's a sequence I keep pumping out on, and nothing seems to get better. But I know I am improving. My body tension's getting better, I find ways to break beta, I have better heel hooks, drop knees, etc. But when that doesn't translate to sends it makes me feel like garbage. After all - Am I really better if I still can't crack a particular V6 on kilter?

Then I start hangboarding and increasing volume and it just feels like more of the same.

>>243953
Started with isolated moves that I could do, using the best holds the Moonboard had to offer. I think I started with benchmarks directly, I managed to send "The Warm Up Problem" on the 2019 set after a few weeks and after doing the first one the others came soon after.
As much as it sucks, take your time and work your way up slowly.

Or be a naturally gifted freak like a friend of mine and go from starting moonboarding to #2 in my country and top 15 worldwide within one year...

>https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2025/oct/02/balin-miller-climber-death-el-capitan

>>243986
>https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2025/oct/02/balin-miller-climber-death-el-capitan


Link to the actual fall?

>>243986
Anyone have a link to the video?

>>243986
ok?

>>243989
>>244016
It’s not that interesting, he just rappels of a rope that’s not long enough and falls out of frame. Tie your stopper knots, they save lives

>>243986
>>243989
>>244016
>Anyone have a link to the video?
It's in the dedicated thread...
>>244018

>>243965
I would stick with the hangboarding, be consistent with it for a few months and I don't think finger strength will be a weakness for you at your grade level. Make sure you progressively overload, don't just do the same weight every sesh and expect to progress.

You might be giving grades too much credit, grades on boards are all over the place. I have climbed quite a few v7-10 outdoors and still get rekt on certain benchmark moonboard problems way below my grade, or even my flash grade. Problems are morpho, sandbagged, soft, they're all over the place. I have flashed benchmark V8 on the tb2 at 45 degrees and there are benchmark v6s on that board that feel absolutely ridiculous.

I started climbing about 2-3 months ago. To start off, I got LS Tarantulas as advised. Flat, snug, but not super tight.
I am currently at about V3-4. I think, I have a limited frame of reference.
I don't wanna blame my shoes but it does seem like it sucks at smearing and it has stretched out too much despite sizing from my street size.

Is it normal for me to want to get newer shoes now or am I premature in wanting to upgrade. I was hoping my first shoe would last me my first year of climbing. I was thinking of getting the scarpa vapor v.

>>244091
>I would stick with the hangboarding, be consistent with it for a few months and I don't think finger strength will be a weakness for you at your grade level.
Duly noted. Some other stuff you said helped. I cracked a boulder this week that's been on the side for awhile by recording each attempt and correcting my beta for it. Also helps to know that grades are subjective even at the higher levels.

Got any hangboarding advice? People say not to increase the weight too fast, but the sets. Something I found is just do max hangs, start at 4 sets, if it feels easy, go to 5, then 6. Then after 3ish weeks, increase the weight slightly.

>>244166
Your shoes are fine. A stronger climber could flash your project in flip flops. Don't worry about your next pair until they wear holes in the toe.

>>244266
My personal experience with hangboarding was very positive, here is what I did:

>Pick grip types that are widely applicable to climbing. For me, it made the most sense to just focus on half crimp and 3 finger drag.
>Pick an edge size that you can easily hang bw as a starting point
>Test your max weight for each grip type that you can hang for some time, say 10s. So you would start at bw and then add weight to your self until you fail to hang for 10s. Note your max for each grip type.
>Your starting weight for your hangboarding routine will be your max minus some amount of weight. For example if you were able to hang for 10s on a 20mm edge in half crimp with bw+20lbs, start your hangboarding training block at just bw. If you could hang bw+50lbs, start at bw+30lbs. The point is to give yourself a margin so you're not maxing out right away.
>From there, do a typical max hang protocol. For max hangs, you want to do short duration hangs with lots of rest between each hang. A good starting routine would be 4-6 sets per grip type, each set is 10s of hanging followed by ~3 mins of rest.
>Increase the load progressively. If you have access to very small weights, you can increase the weight every session by something small, like 1-2lbs, and just do that indefinitely until you plateau. If you don't have access to micro weights, just increase the load every few sessions by 5lbs.
>Keep going until you plateau, then deload some amount, repeat.

You can also progressively overload by doing more sets at a certain weight, but I really like the idea of just adding weight at the same amount of sets.

I went from hanging bw + 20lb in half crimp on a 20mm edge to bw + 105lbs on 20mm in about a years time using this protocol. 3 finger drag went from bw to bw+80lbs. Climbing on crimps went from a weakness to a strength, and the 3fd helped a lot with sloper strength and making full use of my reach.

>>244279
Very interesting... What about training pinches? The pinch is a weakness of mine as well...

Also, is doing both half crimp AND three finger drag the same day a good idea? That's basically like double overloading the same joints? What do you do if your fingers get tweaky? Do you climb on the days you hangboard? Did you personally get better results from 4 sets versus 5 or 6?

>>244281
Any grip is valid as long as long as it makes sense to you. If pinches are a weakness, I don't see why not other than it might be hard on a hangboard.

I found half crimp/3 finger drag to compliment each other well specifically because they load the tendons differently. I felt fine doing both in a sesh, whereas when I tried doing both half and full crimp that felt like too much.

As far as sets, I started each of my training blocks with 6 sets per grip and progressed to 4 sets as the weights got heavier. I found I could tolerate more volume after a deload, and that reducing volume while continuing to increase weight towards the end of a training block allowed me to push past plateaus easier.

Back then I would climb 3 days a week and hangboard twice a week. I would tweak my sessions such that if I was hangboarding the same day or on the previous rest day, I would avoid overly crimpy climbs. An example week:
M-climb (no crimpy) + hang
T-rest
W-climb
Th-hang
F-rest
S-climb outside
Su-rest

>>244283
Really good template, thanks for the advice and I'll see if I can implement it. I might prefer hanging before a climb, that way I can really put effort into it.

>>244166
I made the exact same mistake. The website I got the shoes from actually recommended one size down for the tarantulas, even for a beginner. I've definitely lost performance in some coin type footholds but I'm struggling to justify the cost of newer shoes

If your foot fits it well, the mad rock drone series of shoes are a good step up from beginner shoes and are pretty affordable, around $130 new. They have the famous cheater heel and it really works.

>>244305
Yeah. If I curl my toes there's about a thumb's worth of space in the toe box. And I downsized 1 size from my street shoe size.
I wish I was given actual advice rather than the standard
>Oh don't worry about down sizing at this stage, just get your usual street size for comfort.

I like slabs too, and now standing on small edges is just frustrating.

It might be because of my shitty schedule change but over these last few weeks I went from climbing a few V6's in my gym to barely being able to do some V4's. Time to promptly kill myself.

>>244338
Good man. Let he who climbs for fun get raped and die in shame. Let us who chase grades die with honor. Seppuku is the clear option of choice. >Bro it's just a hobby
I'm going to kill your dog.

>>244336
Your shoes are way too big. Downsize more. 1 size down is just a rule of thumb, I went 3 sizes down until my shoe fit how I wanted it to.

I'm taking a deload after weeks of high intensity and high volume. All I'm noticing is that each day, I'm more sore than the last, the fuck is happening. 4 days in and it's hard to get out of bed

>find shoe with perfect toebox... heel is fucked
>find shoe with nice fitting heel... toebox is too small
This is so frustrating

>>244553
Real, but take time experimenting with different shoes. Toebox fit is more important than heel fit, so prioritize that, but just try diferent pairs every now and then and climb on

I shifted my reality to focus on raw improvement. I haven't skipped a climbing session in two months now, and my gains are steadily coming. Better body tension, better footwork, I'm able to execute old projects with flow and effortlessness. I'd say the biggest boon to my climbing has just been the consistency. Back in April-June, I took a really lax approach, going 1-2 a week but going hard, and I think my body really needed the volume because while there was improvement, it felt milder. Instead of going 7-8 times a month, I'm now going 10-11, this 40% increase in time on the wall is significant.

For moonboard 'no kickboard' problems, are you allowed to smear the kickboard as long as you dont use the foot chips?
I was trying Monooqlo Tokyo 7b on the 2024 set, and I can skip the toe hook and move straight to the first hold by smearing the kickboard which made me think it wasnt allowed. But in all the send videos with the toe hook they are also smearing the kickboard with their other foot so im a little unclear on the rules.

>tfw v4 subhuman
It's so fucking over for me.

>>245020
If you keep comparing yourself to others, you will never enjoy anything.
I've had more fun projecting V3 than flashing V4.
Just look for something that looks cool and try it. Every time you manage to do one more move is a win.

>>245087
I know, but still...

File: IMG20251014164813.jpg (2.24 MB, 4000x1816)

2.24 MB JPG

Behold, my home wall. 45 degrees, 12 feet of diagonal, 16 feet wide.

>>245087
>LMFAO look at this bozo who can't be better than 70% of climbers on day one.
>KYS LOSER
Based chad mentality.

>>245181
How did you set that up? Was it expensive? I'm a normie fag who doesn't know anything about woodworking or construction. How can I acquire the skills to build this without having it collapse on me?

>>245192
I'm a normies too, I had a wall builder help me. It's a pretty simple design, with proper wood working tools it's feasible to do it your self. I think petzl has a home wall building guide that is very thorough and can be followed step by step.

>>245192
Metolius has a guide
https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf

>>245181
How you went about the rock holds, and how tall is the celing? i want to build a home wall with rock holds

50 or 55 degrees on the Kilterboard?
60 feels too much like roof climbing already while 45 is too soft

>>245535
55° obviously, even 50° is soft

>>245460
The rock holds are from a company called realstoneholds. They're pretty affordable compared to other companies doing stone holds.

The ceiling is ~9ft, so for the bottom/back portion of the wall I dug about 1ft down into the soil to make room for a kick board. I'll probably dig the whole floor down a foot eventually but it's a pain in the ass to do by hand as each square foot of dirt weighs about 100lbs and there is a shitload to take out.

File: nice.gif (2.6 MB, 320x240)

2.6 MB GIF

got my first 1-5-8 yesterday

>>245648
That's very impressive anon, gz

>>245192
It’s expensive and time consuming. Expect to spend twice as much on climbing holds as you will on materials. It’s fun to set problems at first but it gets a little old after a while. Unless you have no gym within 50 miles I’d argue a home climbing wall is a waste of space and effort despite being a cool idea

>>245648
How long did it take you?
I just started with this section of the gym and even those big round logs are kind of bitch.

>>245685
31 years old, training boulder with medium intensity on-off since 18 or so. currently probably a year or two of active training without much time off or injuries, few times a week. no specific training for campusing, just in peak shape currently.

just found out the ifsc event is being held in Fukuoka japan this weekend where I happen to be. bought tix for the boulder finals on saturday. Mao is going to be there and is my climbing waifu but I can't be a weird white monkey trying to talk to her lol. should I bring a sign with me that says /xs/ or something else autistic?

>>245777
definitely not bro just enjoy it like a normal person. sounds dope.

>>245777
Definitely take an autistic sign. Something like "Professionally brushing toes" or "I'm here for the armpit kino"

I have been stuck at like 160% bw 20mm max hang since spring this year. Been hangboarding for two years in total. I think there is a massive genetic component to this and my fingers just aren't particularly strong
I have started doing 14mm max hang as well, and this is still going up, to see if it can spur on my 20mm and create some of kind synergetic effect. But really, I don't have good finger strength genetics really

I did get stuck at like 130% for ages, but after I broke that plateau it went up rapidly- maybe the same thing will happen again and I'll be at 180 bw soon. But really my fingers just aren't that strong, I have seen zoomers hangboarding more than me and they aren't even routine hangboarders. Annoying because I am pretty strong gym-wise

>>245873
Stop blaming genetics, if you've climbed for less than 10 years, you're not close to your genetic ceiling. Gains take longer the more you train, but also a sudden plateau doesn't just happen for no reason. Assuming you're getting proper protein intake, sleep, and nutrition, you need to find other ways to progressively overload your fingers. Consider doing one arm hangs, or keep training smaller edges as you are. There are various programs that don't just rely on max hangs, things like repeater variants, or simply hangboarding more often. If progress halts, it is usually because you are not being stimulated enough. Happens in lifting all the time. Alternatively, maybe too much volume is the problem. Consider hangboarding close to your 100%, but for less time and having longer rests between individual sets and between hangboarding days.

Keep a dedicated training log so you can see what works and what doesn't.

A fairly decent post there, thanks
But I don't need to keep any kind of log because I am not a memorylet/brainlet

>>245873
Do a round of repeaters for a few months. That broke me out of my plateau. I attribute it to way higher volume leading to forearm hypertrophy vs max hangs where it's super low volume and mostly neuromuscular adaptation. I went from 150% to about 180% on my next max hang block.

Watching the finals now
Do they ever share their DJ mixes anywhere on the internet? They're too good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBxtF11EuHY

Yo climbcels, is it possible to get kinda decent with 1x per week indoor climbing or is that "forever hardstuck at being able to do a few 7As that fit my style" tier?

>>246084
Hardstuck for sure. Even 2x a week super intense session is pretty much maintenance imo (unless you do stuff outside of climbing like finger training)

>>246086
Sounds like it's pretty much impossible to get anywhere with climbing if you also want to do other physical shit like regular lifting or running desu.

Running seems easy enough

>>246087
>>246274
Yeah, combining climbing and running is no problem in my opinion.
I suck at both though, so dunno how long it would take to climb e.g. 8A and run <18min/5k

>>243692

Ripped the entire fucking door handle out of the bathroom door at my climbing gym's toilets last week when I tried to open the door

>>243692

Do any pros train at your gym? There are a few olympians at mine. I've spoken to them briefly before one watched me do a route once for a bit and he looked mildly amused at my really unconventional beta. It's really wild to me that I'm here climbing V4 and there are literal olympic athletes sharing the training area with me

>>246560
What country?

>>246560
colin duffy occasionally climbs at my gym. he's an absolute monster, my gym has some very hard boulders (v12+) and he cruises them. it's humbling to see.

one time I saw him doing a sesh on the TB2 and told him about some v8 I thought was sandbagged, he cruised the shit out of it. idk why I thought it would be any different lol

>>246560
I dont know if they used to be pros, but there are few people at my gym that crush everything.
It's really insane seeing them being so strong and effortlessly just cruise things.
Their warm up is harder then my projects.

>>246560
There's a guy that used to compete internationally and he lead climbs in crocs which is funny to see. Sometimes he even climbs feet first on some easier routes in the overhang.
There are also younger guys and girls that compete currently. It is wild to see them cruise up almost everything in the gyms.

>>246560
Toby roberts used to climb occasionally at my old gym, very very strong

A2 pulley on my right hand has been kinda fucked for the last month. Still climbing and trying to do recovery exercises for it, but i wake up in the middle of the night to it hurting and feeling swollen. During the day it's fine assuming im not jabbing into my finger. Any recommendations or advice, or should I just keep doing what im doing until it finally goes away? I didn't tear it or anything, as it was just a pain that gradually appeared.

>>246900
If the pain is bad enough that it's waking you at night then I'd recommend taking a couple of weeks off climbing. Just do slabs or some shit and continue the rehab exercises.

>>246900
>>246934
Not to be that guy but if you are waking up to pain in the finger I think you're far past the point of taking a couple weeks break.

Go see some doctor or some shit. Also never really tore any of my pulleys but the closest I had was sharp pain when crimping, so I dont know how can you fuck your finger that badly when it just "gradually" appeared.

Hope you heal asap but don't neglect the first signs of finger injury the next time, it's never worth it.

>>246560
I trained at the School Room for a while back when i was at university and climbed with a bunch of them in a small space. The first time I saw Bosi climbing on the 50 degree board I couldn't believe what I was seeing - it was like watching someone from some supreme alien climbing race. There levels upon levels to this shit nigga

How much did off the wall training affect your climbing?
I'm currently projecting at around a 7B+/7C level and only training I am doing is a lot of board climbing. Was considering introducing a couple of hours of strength training twice a week targeting my weaknesses and was wondering how effective something similar has been for any of you lovely people.

Also just got top 50 uk moonboard ranking yayyy :)

>>247112

Where do you train anon? I'm in Leeds.

Also I am not anywhere near as experienced as you, but for what it's worth, I add 3x5 deadlifts and squats at the end of my climbing (after a meal and a rest) to train my legs and on my off days when I don't climb I take out my rings and parallettes and I do pull ups and push ups as well as core work

lads, do your isometrics. It works on all joints and ligaments. My shoulder and knee tweak improved in about a week.
https://youtu.be/BnFzjcPTSsc

How do you get better at campusing?
Do you need to be able to do shit ton of pull ups?
Unless the holds are total jugs and close to each other I can't campus shit.

File: images.jpg (22 KB, 527x379)

22 KB JPG

>>247198
You get better at it by campusing. Hope this helps anon

>>247112
In my personal experience, besides short cycles of weighted pull-ups it did nothing but take energy away from my climbing. People get so bogged down in the minutia of getting good and end up falling into these traps, where you have faggots like lattice ready to take advantage of you, sell you this idea that you can plank your way to v10 and take your time and money.

Most people I climbed with who were really good (i.e. V11-13 range) just lived out of their vans and climbed on rock every day or board climbed when it's raining. They didn't lift weights barely at all or do faggot snake oil salesman tyler nelson newest guaranteed results protocol, they just climbed on rock as much as possible and tried as hard as possible which is a massively understated skill in itself.

>>247166
>2 hours of two reddit power user dorks nerding out over training
no thanks mate

>>247143
I'm based in coventry, how are the gyms in Leeds?

>>247210
While I agree that the best training for climbing is climbing, surely some supplementary strength training for areas you are lacking can't hurt?
Theres a guy I know who is about my level and does loads of strength training, and while I think i'm better than him in most areas, he can absolutely piss up shoulder moves which feel completely impossible to me. Of course I could focus on working shouldery climbs but I would imagine it would be more efficient to simply do some shoulder exercises in the gym.

>>247419

Really good. Max Milne trains at my gym as do some young pros and it's really cool having such a contrast between people of their skill level and the beginners. Everyone here is super friendly and affable and also very professional. I really enjoy the scene. I'd say the big chains have more cunty staff members but the gym I train at has SUPER friendly staff that really feel more like friends than staff. I'm actually friends with one of the girls who works there and we are going out for high tea tomorrow.

I've never made any friends through climbing

>>247540
I've made almost all my friends through climbing

>>247617
I've made almost all my friends go climbing

Has anyone come across or heard anything about counterfeit climbing shoes? I was just in china, which has a great climbing scene btw, and the shoes there are soooooo cheap. Way cheaper than what I can get them for where I'm at.

And I'm talking Scarpa / La sportiva, not random no name chinese brands.

There is like a 40 euro difference(!!!) compared to the Scarpa official msrp on their website. I have seen the shoes on shelves and honestly they look legit and I doubt there is some large scale counterfeiting operation going on since the prices was the same everywhere. Is it just regional pricing?

I would imagine the shoes are mostly made in China, even the ones that say they're "made" (aka finished) in Italy or whatever.
Have you looked at the tags?

>>247644
>Scarpa official msrp
Msrp is a scam.
I've got my shoes way cheaper from some random online sport shop and I'm in Europe.
Something like 120 euro vs 230 dollars msrp.

>>247665
Yeah but I'm not talking about some random online shop in China. I'm talking everywhere, every gym, every store. There was no discount, no sales, no clearance going on. Their msrp is 40 euros cheaper.

>>247661
Doesn't Scarpa insist their shoes are made in Italy? I'll take a look at the tags when I can.

I finally got to a 11% bodyweight max hang. Did 3 sets of 10 seconds. LFG.

>>247684
Every online retailer in the EU like Oliunid has a similar price difference compared to the official stores.

>>247691
Got higher grades or feel stronger when climbing?
Thinking about starting a hangboard routine (mostly for my injury-prone fingers)

>>247691
On what kind of a bar/fingerboard? Beastmaker 20mm holds? Pull-up bar? something else?

>>247698
I wasn't trying to hangboard-max, but I've noticed that I'm projecting V6s/V7s with substantially less effort, but mainly the gains came from moonboarding and kilterboarding at steep angles. I think I just have better body tension, thanks in part to pulling strength.
>Thinking about starting a hangboard routine (mostly for my injury-prone fingers)
I'm still new to it myself, still taking things hella slow.
>>247699
I use the Grindstone Mk 2 20mm holds (bottom left holds). The thing feels slopey, and honestly feels more akin to a 16-18mm than a 20mm.

Contact strength >> Finger strength

>>247729
Advice?

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Is this 8a?

>>247462
Mfw citybloc

>>247697
Damn, I have only ever been comparing my local prices with Amazon and rock+run. Never heard of this site. I guess I have been getting ripped off by my local gyms and retailers. That's what I get for supporting local retailers I guess.

>>247752
Supporting small businesses is, without fail, a scam and a waste of money!

>>247751
bro do you train at citybloc? I'll go there and climb with you sometime if you like : D

>>247800
Nah valley newcastle, only been once for a comp. when i climb in Leeds once or twice a year i mainly do lsd, better vibes for a one off session

>>247751
First move is fucking wild, rest of it isnt too bad though

>>247808

Fair. I gotta say citybloc is a mix of intense and friendly. The people there train quite seriously for the most part if they're regulars, but they're also all friendly.

my gym gets cold now in the winter and normally i just wear a shirt and some sport shorts. what do you guys wear to keep a little warmer when it gets a bit colder inside?

Do you guys generally find gym memberships worth it? And if yes how often does your gym reset its routes?
The gyms in my area make a membership only barely worth it if you climb at their locations 3 times a week and they take up to 2-3 weeks to fully reset their walls. I can't do everything in the gyms but I would have long exhausted what routes I can send by then.

Am I looking at this wrong?

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>attempting a route
>guy I know who is far more experienced than me is there trying one that is close by
>fail a particular move repeatedly because I am struggling to reach a hold above me and holding on to it after
>"damn, I'm not strong enough"
>"no, you're just not good enough"

>>247842
i alternate between 2 gyms once a week and theres still days where i cant climb many new things. i feel like its only worth it if theres a single subscription and they got different locations you can use multiple times a week

>can do pull ups on bar
>can do pull ups on rings
>can do pull ups on reasonably sized edges
>cant do a single fucking pull up once I'm supposed to hold/grab that hold instead of hang from it
I feel like complete retard. It's like my hands just say no.
Do I need to train my wrists or something?

>>247843
Climbers are usually retards when it comes to expressing what is, buried under the surface, genuinely good advice. You are almost certainly strong enough, but you probably lack technical refinement or beta to get to the top, hence you literally are not good enough, but your efforts are better spent towards improving beta.

Is there a drop knee? Is there a back flag? Is there a way to increase your stability on the wall? Look for people your height who CAN send it.

Note - Even if you manage to hold on afterwards, it might not be your strength, but how you're pulling it, how stable you are when you pull it, etc.

You're going to get stronger just by climbing, but technique is something you have to consciously assess nonstop until it becomes a habit. So yeah, you're not good enough. Get good. You can do it.

>>247857

Yeah for sure, his advice was ultimately good. I said "ha, that hurts to hear a lot more than hearing I'm not strong enough" and he said "yeah, but you can get more skilled a lot faster than you can get stronger" and gave me some beta.

It's just intimidating climbing at my gym because there are many literal world-class athletes climbing there. I wanna be good and to be totally honest with myself I want to impress them. I just think they're so cool and I've really fallen in love with this sport. I've been thinking of coming 4 times a week. When I do climb, I usually spend 5+ hours there, taking breaks to eat and then going back.

>>247864
>It's just intimidating climbing at my gym because there are many literal world-class athletes climbing there. I wanna be good and to be totally honest with myself I want to impress them.
I can relate. I climb at a gym where lots of the youth compete at nationals, and where V10 climbers and above frequent alot. We don't have pros, but we have up and comers, so I completely see where you're coming from.

But don't let good advice hurt you, please take it from me. It took me a long ass time to have a positive mentality when it comes to this stuff, and beating yourself up or letting yourself get hurt over perceived "inefficiencies" or "flaws" is going to do far more damage than anything. (Also, side note, aim to improve yourself for your own sake, not to impress others. They'll be impressed when you're at their level, or finding beta they can't do)

Being able to train with some skilled as guys sounds hella fun, good for you. Also, spending 5+ hours a day lots of days will make you really good, really fast. Listen to your body and if stuff hurts, lower volume, but other than that just enjoy it.

I'd be psyched to hear how you're progressing man, keep posting updates every now and then.

>>247869

Thanks man, that is really kind and motivating. I appreciate you saying that. I am 29 and I just wish I had started earlier. I'm a bit of a defeatist and insecure in general and the thing is that most of what you do in climbing is fail, so it's been really good for me mentally. I had to get over the fact that I was failing so much and come to terms with the fact that it is inevitable. It's reshaped my relationship with failure and made me have more perserverance.

Still, it's intimidating when there are so many literal olympic athletes training all around me. I just wanna be good! It feels so strange to be here

>>247870
get a job

>>247877

I do, but your job doesn't necessarily give you fulfilment or a sense of purpose. It turns out I really like sports but didn't realize until I was older

What V grade do I have to be able to climb before I can call myself a climber and not have intense imposter syndrome?

>permabeg guy at gym proud of how he sized up his new shoes from street size
Tight shoe FUD is so bad that we have people wasting money on clown shoes to avoid looking try hard or whatever

>>247887

I think at 5 or 6 you are a "true" climber. You've gotten past the noob gain phase of V3 to V4 where climbing gets genuinely somewhat technical, then from that to V5 where it begins to get difficult and are now doing the level above THAT and therefore have probably been climbing for a minimum of 1.5 years

>>247887
Whatever my max grade currently is

Any recommendations for online resolers to send my shoes in to? In northern California but no local resolers. Just bought a new pair but I want to use these old ones for outdoors.

>>247887
>What V grade do I have to be able to climb before I can call myself a climber and not have intense imposter syndrome?
V-not being a pussy. If you enjoy it and climb alot, that's it.
>>247889
That's cap. I've met so many chill people who're like 6 months into it and crushing outdoor climbs on the daily just because they fell in love with it. I'd consider them as more "true" of a climber than the gymrat who goes with his colleagues for a weekend outing.

If you love climbing and do it alot, you're a climber, that's it, why gatekeep this shit, it's already retarded enough that we have braincels screaming that they can't do V10 in 2 years. God it's like all people want to do is shit on others. Get along right now you fuckers.
>>247877
Kill yourself for posting that here.

>>247930

I agree that if you enjoy climbing and do it you're a climber. It's not like there's a hard, objective line. Having said that, I'd say that the average person who DOES love climbing and take it seriously is probably at the V5 level(ish). Anyone who climbs like twice a week and is healthy and is making a conscientious effort to climb is probably gonna be at that level after 2 or 3 years max

>outdoor climbs on the daily

man, climbing every single day - even if you skip weekends - is fucking intense. I'd say anyone doing that is on their way to being semi-pro if they do it long enough and take it serious

>>247931
>mfw my first V5 kilterboard send
G-guys... am I in the club now?
>Total time spent climbing-3 years. Top route indoors: V6 (soft), like 8 V5s.
Outdoors: V2 (This was in my first year, haven't bouldered since), Top Rope: 5.11a (best on-sight was a 5.10a at a really sandbagged place)

>>247932
>>mfw my first V5 kilterboard send
>G-guys... am I in the club now?
What angle? Tbqh anything <45° is worthless and even 50° is still soft-ish
I'm nowhere close to a 7A climber but did multiple at 50° and flashed a 7A+ at 45°

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rVj-WQDgrc

>>247921
Rubber room in bishop you nigger

Obviously everyone is different, but at what kind of stages is an average person expected to be at depending on time spent climbing? like, what V grade would you be reasonably expected to be at after a year? I reckon a year is probably enough for most people climbing casually to get to at least a V3, probably 4.

>>247938
>Nowhere near a 7a climber
>Flashes 7a
Uh. This is why I hate grading arguments... Yesterday I was in a gym and there was a v6 that nobody could do except for this super flexible girl who nailed the beta, yet she couldn't even do a V4. Grades. Are. Bullshit.
>>247968
It realllllly depends, because as I discovered myself, how much climbing one does in a year varies from person to person. I used to think climbing 3 days a week was enough, but my average sessions were like 1.5 hours. Most of my friends also go only 3-4 days a week, but their sessions are 3 hours. So in the same year, they got at least double the volume I did, double the time on the wall, double the attemtps. The end result was that they're flashing my V6 projects. But hey, I changed up my game, and have been focusing on increasing climbing volume since September. It's mid-November now, and my plateau finally broke. Stronger fingers then ever, getting projects at a much faster rate. This is what people mean by "just climb".

In any case, grades are subjective, vary by gym, and people progress at a different rate. Even the average person will have completely different outcomes depending on what gyms they have nearby and how close they are to a crag. The average person at my gym usually gets to V4 flash in a year, but the average person at the gyms in my old city would probably take much longer to get there. Also, an outdoor 3 in a year would be above average imo.

>>247971

Totally agree. I used to work out before I injured myself (was never in good shape imo though) so I had some muscle foundation. After about 5 months of climbing I'm at around V4, but when I climb I climb the WHOLE day. I'll get there at 1pm and climb till 6 or 7pm, taking breaks to eat.

My 20mmax hang hasn't gone up in like 7 months
Just can't break +40kg

My 14mm threatens to go up, but I can't help but think I just don't have very strong fingers genetically

>>247980
You re-posted it. I posted:
>>245877
To which you replied:
>>245878
>I'm not a brainlet.
you're literally retarded. You were given good advice, you chose to ignore it because of your pride. There are certainly patterns behind your training routine, patterns that you can't uncover because you
>Don't wanna
So enjoy the plateau and the false belief that
>Muh genetics
Are the problem. Have a good night, loser.

>>247971
>>Flashes 7a
That was never ever a 7A but I agree that grades are completely subjective but setting a e.g. 6B and calling it 7A is bullshit

This literal GRANDMA is climbing 8A. We have no excuse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpAJEENfEjg

>>248102
Redditers will say "genetics"

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i did my first outdoor v6 today

Thinking of getting La Sportiva Katanas. A good upgrade for my Boreal Zenith shoes. They feel a little too soft and kinda slippy, but it could be cuz I'm only a V4 climber.

Also, how the fuck is V4 considered "early intermediate"? It's challenging, but not THAT hard. I've been climbing like 5 months and it's where I'm currently at and I definitely don't consider myself an intermediate. I can barely ever do a V5 - I've probably done about 4 or 5 ever. I'm far too fat right now and weak to go harder.

>>248159
Chad.
>>248167
Typical american gymrat

>>248177

I'm european I just got fat because I suffered a bad injury last year and my arm was paralyzed

>>248167
>V4 is easy!

Try going outside, indoor v4-5 = outdoor v0-1 (not joking)

>>248159
congrats anon I am impressed

>>248206

Oh yeah ofc, I'm talking about indoor bouldering for context

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>trying a route I'm struggling with
>olympic athletes guys come round and smash the boulder like it's nothing as part of their warm up
>disheartened, try again using the technique they used to get past the part I couldn't complete
>about to fall off
>"Come on, come on"
>they're staring at me
>fuck I can't fall now
>complete it
>they say "nice" and fist bump me

I was so nervous about fucking it up in front of them. It's too much fucking pressure training around the top 1% of athletes in the world. Imagine going to the gym to lift weights and a mr olympia competitor is just sat there watching you bench

The owner of my climbing gym offered to buy me climbing shoes at trade price cuz I helped clean the gym : )

I'm trying to get some shoes online but I'm not sure what size to get. Last time I got my regular street size and they turned out to be too big after they had time to stretch. Should I go one size smaller this time?

>>248231
>I'm trying to get some shoes online but I'm not sure what size to get. Last time I got my regular street size and they turned out to be too big after they had time to stretch. Should I go one size smaller this time?

Rock+Run has a shoe sizing guide for a whole bunch of shoes. Not sure how accurate it is but at least it should be internally consistent.

>>248231
Depends on the material of the upper and the brand. Leather uppers stretch a lot synthetic uppers don't stretch at all. For example, La Sportivas with a leather upper can stretch even 3 sizes.
In my experience, with a leather upper I would downsize 1 size for comfy shoes and 2-3 sizes for tight fit. For synthetic I would not downsize at all for comfy shoes and downsize 1 and 1.5 sizes for tight fit.

>>248243
>>248240

My only worry is that the Katanas are more designed for outdoor bouldering vs indoor (all I do) but my friend who is a coach told me lots of people use them indoors too. I just got boreal zeniths that were too big and not aggressive enough so I'm looking for something a little more intense and tighter, so if you got any suggestions in the up to 150 range please let me know.

>>248243
>>248240

was maybe thinking dragos or instinct vsr

>>248251
For indoor bouldering try LS skwama or solutions. Katanas have a very stiff sole/edge and are typically used where those features are needed (outdoors on very small edges).

>>248252
Are you new? You sound new. If you're new then Dragos are probably not for you. The instincts vs/vsr will probably be more appropriate. Or vapor v.

But honestly it's hard to make recommendations for climbing shoes. You have to know what you want. As for sizes I think the guide is your best bet if you have to buy online.

>>248251
>>248252
The only time I found that a shoe made a difference that couldn't be solved be skill or strength was toe hooking. My point is, it doesn't matter which shoe you buy if it fits you well, but you do want that toe rubber for toe hooks. Just try on a bunch of shoes, see how they fit you. Every climbing gym I've been to also sells shoes and you can just ask them to try them on with no intention of buying them there. Or go to some shop and try them on there.

>>248290
>>248281

thanks, guys. I'll check out a few different pairs at my local gym (they sell them there) and maybe go and do a proper fitting somewhere that does that. I just don't wanna waste a bunch of money

And yeah, still fairly new. climbing V4.

>>248224
What country?
That sounds pretty fucking cool.

I started bouldering a couple months ago after kinda being autistic about alpine and rock climbing from a distance for a good while, probably ever since I watched Touching the Void back in the day. I guess being antisocial and unhealthy kept me from doing it but im enjoying myself and clearing some 3s and 4s in the gym whilst unable to go beyond just yet. I'm around 75kg and 177cm and probably lost 20kg over the last year. Ive decent biceps and shoulders but I feel like my core and back suck as even underhang 3s have me feeling gassed out and my legs flailing. Ive also smoked for 15 years and only started to cut back in the last year to about 2 to 4 a day (not sure if relevant). I like slab which I guess is considered cringe and have only 2 climbing gyms within 400kms of me. Any tips or tricks? Thanks for reading my blogpost and sorry if any of this is covered in the thread I have not read through yet.

>>248827
>I'm around 75kg and 177cm
Fine stats for climbing. At 80kg, 185c, I project V6-V7. Don't think weight is the main limiting factor at this grade.
>and probably lost 20kg over the last year.
Nice
>Ive decent biceps and shoulders but I feel like my core and back suck as even underhang 3s have me feeling gassed out and my legs flailing
If your legs are flailing that means they're coming off the wall when they shouldn't. Mastering overhang climbing is about using your feet to preserve body tension. At V3-4, your feet should have no reason to disconnect as there are typically enough solid holds on the wall to always keep yourself on. Aim to do overhangs without your feet ever coming off.
>Ive also smoked for 15 years and only started to cut back in the last year to about 2 to 4 a day (not sure if relevant)
Nice progress, but speaking as someone who works in urgent care, try to get that crap to 0. It's never too late to quit painting your lungs black.
>I like slab which I guess is considered cringe
It's not genuinely considered cringe, it's just that lots of new climbers see boulder bros campus stuff while lacking any proper technique and they think it looks cool. They also believe technical climbing sucks because it's hard.

>Any tips or tricks?
Be consistent. 3 days a week minimum for fastest progress, no more than 4.

>>248838
Thanks, the feet advice makes sense and I'll work on it. The smoking is mainly for crapping in the morning and winding down at end of day so I reckon i can bugger off the end of day smokes immediately. I may have to hold off on the consistency you recommend for a second as I seem to have hurt my pulleys. I still plan to do other exercise in the meantime.

>toes poking through both my shoes
Finally ready to move on from my baby's first pair of rock shoes
>tfw I size down 0.5 and can barely get my feet in
Is downsizing a meme? Maybe it makes sense if your feet are small or if you're climbing at a high level

>>248106
granetics

Any instinct VS user can comment on the break in period?
I just got mine 1 size down. the fit feels almost perfect, but the toe knuckles hurts like a bitch. It's not a sharp pain but I definitely cannot imagine jumping and doing dynos like this.
I heard the instincts are known for a pretty narly break in period, will it get much better?

>>249116

IDK bro but I am about to buy some. They didn't feel TOO tight for me - I went half a size down (7.5 instead of 8). What size did you go with?

>>249117
My street size is a 42.5. I got a 41.5 so 1 size down. 1.5 down felt too tight and I didn't get to try 1/2 down.

They fit well, I didn't even have to use the plastic paper trick people sometimes recommend, but the toe area does hurt. I'm guessing when
(if) the toe rubber breaks in it will be a very good fitting shoe.

I think 1/2 down should be fine.

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>>249118
>42.5. I got a 41.5 so 1 size down
Wait a minute
This whole downsizing thing is an american meme using numbers as high as the 40s?
I just bought my second pair and attempted to downsize my bong size 12 to 11, and I can barely fit my feet in the things
Fuck

>>249201
>This whole downsizing thing is an american meme using numbers as high as the 40s?
"40s" are EU sizes and typically you downsize a bit for beginner shoes and more for leather shoes like Skwama (around 2-4 sizes down)
Adam Ondra went down from 44 to 39/40 which would be around UK 10 down to UK 6/6.5

>>249201
>I just bought my second pair and attempted to downsize my bong size 12 to 11, and I can barely fit my feet in the things
Also what kind of shoe?
Dowsizing La Sportiva should be no problem, Scarpa is still fine but afaik Evolv, Unparallel and Ocun are pretty true to size, so maybe half a size or a full size down if you hate yourself.

>>249201
As the other anon pointed out, it's euro sizing. And as with most standards, the European one is superior and frankly we should all adopt it for consistency's sake. And I'm not even europoor. None of that UK/US, men's/women's confusion. More increments to work with as well. Although it seems in most cases +/- size increases are consistent across all scales.

>>249231
All these climbing shoe manufacturers really need to come together and set an industry standard as to how they size their shit. Maybe two tiers for synthetic and leather shoes due to different stretch and that's it.
Some like ocun trying to match to street shoes and la sportiva almost expecting you to down size and never buy true to size is such a mess.

>>249116
If it's your first agressive shoe, it's gonna hurt for a while until you grow some small calluses on your toes

There's this one 5.11 in my gym which is nothing but a crimp ladder. I am a technique advocate, and believe most problems can be solved with good positioning. But I kid you not, having 8 (yes I counted) crimps measuring between 10mm - 15mm with shitty chips in between is not good setting. It is lazy, and rewards finger-strength and nothing else. I've projected 5.12's which demand less finger strength.

>>249388
>rewards finger-strength and nothing else
sounds fantastic, love proper crimp climbs

Never underestimate the power level of the 5ft Chinese girl in a beanie with an eyebrow slit

First moonboard benchmark v9 today :)
Got it in a single session so pretty confident I will be able to find some v10s i can project

Being a tall climber sucks. Your finger strength is ass. Your leverage is ass. You have to be so much stronger. Sick of seeing these short kings dominate in every aspect of climbing because they don't lug around so much weight.

>>249518
On the other hand, we can complete some problems just by standing up.

I also love being able to span moves that others have to dyno to. I love stunting on them just by reaching out for holds.

>>249518
True but at least we're tall when we're not climbing
Worth it imho

Did 4 routes at my gym that are in the V4-V5 bracket today. Didn't use to be able to do any of them. Feeling pretty good : ] only been climbing since late June

>>249642
>routes
>V4-V5
¿

>>249812
>>249642
Good job on the progress though

What's the most likely weakness to have when you're starting moonboarding? I feel like I can't keep enough body tension to do any moves

>>249812
Shut the fuck up, you know what he meant.
>Oh but I'm a grammarnigger
Kill yourself.
>>249815
applying counterpressure by pulling hard on crimps. Learning to pull outwards instead of just straight down. Look up youtube videos about overcoming moonboard plateaus, alot of people give sage advice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjZvFY6__qw

>>249518
>short kings dominate in every aspect of climbing
It's the years of practice climbing cupboards to get to the top shelf.
We just can't compete...

>>243835
>But it's a fantastic training tool for finger strength, body tension and pure fucking power.
This just sounds dumb to me. I honestly think people's fingers only really get stronger hangboarding, guys who have strong fingers without hangboarding just had them anyway. Why would just clenching your hand on a boulder make your fingers stronger, there's no progressive overload.
As for body tension and pure fucking power, I don't really know what you mean.

>>247808
valley Newcastle is good

>>247419
>how are the gyms in Leeds
city Bloc is pretty much the best in UK. Top 3 anyway

had a lot of fun thumbing plastic rock indoors today
worried I was falling out of love for it a second. But really, that is never going to happen. I won't be worried next time

>>245887
repeaters seem really gay and brainlet to me, but maybe I should bite the bullet. Literally been stuck at 160% bw 20mm for like 8 months lol. My 14 mm has progressed in that time at least
I do think there is a massive genetic component to finger strength and I'm not that blessed. Guys who have never hangboarded look like they have stronger fingers than me

Anyone got a good repeater hangboard routine?

>>249812
>>249813
>>249827

Sorry, did I say something stupid? English is not my first language. Could you please explain what the fuck up was? And yeah I mean that my gym puts routes into color groups, so you know it's likely to be within this rough area or that rough area

>>249965

I climb at city bloc a lot. IDK about best in the UK but I think it's a pretty fucking good gym that kinda has everything.

anyone here got any gear they'd recommend for training grip/extensors at home? I was also looking at using a weighted jacket but idk what's even good

>>249976
>English is not my first language. Could you please explain what the fuck up was?
Nevermind. I thought you were being a grammar nazi. Because routes are names we give to roped climbs, where as some people call boulders "problems" exclusively. So:
>Problems = Boulders only
>Routes = Ropes only.
So when you said:
>?
To
>V4-V5
I thought you were trying to imply that you cannot call boulders routes. If English isn't your first language, then maybe that's what created the communication.

>>249992

Oh I am the guy who called boulders "routes". at my gym I have used both routes and problems kinda interchangeably. I did not realize routes were what you called rope climbs! Sorry for that and thank you for teaching me

>>250014
KEEP DOING WHAT YOU ARE DOING! The words are interchangeable!!! I was making fun of you because I thought that YOU thought they were not interchangeable. You can use route for any climb. Keep doing it. Do not stop.

>>250021
>>250014
>The words are interchangeable!!!
They're absolutely not interchangeable. People might understand what he meant but that doesn't mean it's not incorrect.
The guy is trying to improve his understanding of the English language, telling him to keep using the words interchangeably is a pretty dick move when doing so outs him as ESL or just a complete newb.

>>250014
In English, 'routes' is specific to roped climbs and 'problems' for boulders. I've also heard a few guys from the UK use the term bloc/block interchangeably with problem, guess there's some French influence in the climbing scene there.

>>249968
Pick a time. I liked 10:5 (hang to rest) better than 7:3. I did 6 hangs of 10:5, that's 6 hangs of 10 seconds, with 5 seconds of rest in between.

Find your max. If you're going to be adding weight, you gotta find your max weight that you can hang for a full set, and then deload a bit from there for your starting weight.

Pick a progression scheme, either adding weight or adding reps or sets. In any case you'll want your sets to be just barely completable to start, adding weight or a rep or a full set to keep yourself in that "barely able to finish or failing on last few reps of last set" level. This is your progressive overload.

Do it for 8ish weeks. If you plateau, deload 10-20% and pick up from there.

My routine would look something like
>10:5 for 6 reps = 1 set
>4 sets total
>Add weight to harness so that I'm failing on the last reps of set 4, keep adding as I go
>Do this for 8ish weeks

Just moved back to my home city and got a climbing membership again, it feels so fucking good to be back. Climbing brings me so much joy. Such a fun sport
A question for anons: what additional exercise would you recommend doing beyond regular climbing? My legs, back, core are all very strong but my biceps in particular are not good enough, my instinct is just to do a bunch of bicep curls? But that feels simplistic. I also run aside from climbing but that's not really relevant here. I particularly appreciate if this knowledgeable anon could weigh in >>243946

>>250048
>so many fucking typos
swear to god I'm not an esl, just really tired

>>246560
Honestly I think that'd be awesome. You get to watch these fuckers doing straightup magical stuff and inspire you with it while you're resting, and (presuming they're the type to be open to giving advice) you can get it direct from the pros. I'd be lying if I said I haven't ever felt envy or even insecurity from how much better some climbers have displayed themselves to be in front of me, we all falter sometimes, but overall I'd like to think I'm secure enough to recognise the benefit in having that at my gym.
Any neat stories from said olympians? Particular problems you saw them solve that you thought were memorable, or notable interactions?

>>250048
Hey man, I'm that anon. Regarding your question, training weaknesses off the wall makes a lot of sense if you can or aren't getting the needed stimulus on the wall. I don't see anything wrong with targeting biceps off the wall with something simple like curls.

For off the all training I always think about the trade off between what I stand to gain vs the extra the fatigue incurred from training. If I stand to gain a lot and the extra fatigue is minimal, it's a no brainer.

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I kinda wanna go surfing but I want to keep climbing as hard as possible fuuuuuuuuck

>>250055
woops, wrong frog

>>250034
>They're absolutely not interchangeable. People might understand what he meant but that doesn't mean it's not incorrect.
Kill yourself. (Sorry for the delay, you're the person I was trying to say kill yourself to).
>The guy is trying to improve his understanding of the English language, telling him to keep using the words interchangeably is a pretty dick move when doing so outs him as ESL or just a complete newb.
You are a huge faggot.
>>250034
>In English, 'routes' is specific to roped climbs and 'problems' for boulders. I've also heard a few guys from the UK use the term bloc/block interchangeably with problem, guess there's some French influence in the climbing scene there.
Kill yourself.

>>250050

I don't really have any crazy stories, although I have spoken to them now and then. I think they're really just there to train and they're understandably just invested in their own clique. There's never a moment when they're not taking it serious. They also work at the gym and one time I helped out and so I got the chance to speak to them, so some of them know me by name now, which feels really cool.

One time I was struggling with a particularly challenging problem and one of them coached me through it and gave me a fist bump after. That was pretty fucking sick. As for particular problems, they can just do literally every problem. Sometimes I have seen them deliberately make it harder for themselves by skipping stuff on purpose in ways I never thought possible. I guess the thing that amazes me more than their technique is actually just their physical stats. Their strength and agility is on another level. I do feel envy ngl, but it's also motivating

>>250085
>all that spazzing
did a team kid flash your project?

I tried leading a 5.5 today, almost puked, and left a bail biner on the 3rd bolt. What would be the most appropriate/funny means of suicide?

I suddenly became able to engage my hamstrings properly and crimp on stuff. Immediately jumped a grade.

>6'3 93kg
>now barely climbing lmao6c in the gym
I should lose weight but I'm a greedy fuck

>>250172
weight is literally the most important thing in climbing.
fat fucks climbing strong are infinitely more impressive than skellies climbing high grades

>>250175

I myself am 80kg at 176 ish centimetres and I am definitely too fat right now, I feel. It's usually fine until I am climbing something that is overhung

I'm 175lbs at 5'8 and climb v8 outdoor/TB2, gym sets v9-10. I've been climbing for 9ish years now. I think I would climb much harder at something like 145-155 and still be resilient to injury but man do I hate cutting. I gotta just do it one day.

>>250185
count your blessings anon, I'm 1m78 and 60 kg. I'm convinced I must have weirdly light bones or something because by body appearance and volume I should be 65-70 at least.

>>250231

How is that possible? what does your build look like? I just have a high bf% cuz I had a bad gym accident and my left arm was partially paralyzed for over a year and I was an invalid for a while, so I put on lots of weight

>>250139
Free soloing a 5.6. If you send it you redeem yourself.

>>250234
I ask myself the same question every day. I look like a skinny but muscular teenager, I basically have no body fat to speak of.

Why do people climb pockets using ring finger+middle finger instead of middle finger+index finger?
I feel like my index finger is the strongest, I can't hold things without it.

>>250283
I find that my index finger is far more dextrous/agile than my ringe finger, but my ring finger is far stronger. As such ring + middle finger is easily the strongest two-finger combo for holding onto stuff compared to using my middle +index finger. I'd also add (and this is just spitballing) that using middle+ring is better for "balance" in terms of where those fingers are relative to the palm of your hand - ring+middle has the gripping fingers at the center of the bulk of your palm whilst using index+middle has your gripping fingers at the "edge" of your palm. Does that make any sense?

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>>250231
I weigh the same as you and I'm 7cm taller
I've been climbing for 10 years and I only climb V4 though so it's not exactly a superpower

>>250283
Tendons of middle and ring finger are closer and run parallel to each other, unlike the index+middle finger. This makes it a slightly safer than index+middle finger combo in terms of injury risk. I think it is also generally a stronger combination because of this. But it's good to train both. Sometimes you can get more meat into the pocket with the different 2 finger combos.

this 160% bw 20mm max hang has given me PTSD
I'm just gonna switch to 14mm and see what happens

>>250036
this sounds so gay

wish fingers worked like deadlifts and you can just do a few max sets and nothing else
does seem to work up to a point

>>249977
it's good
the route setting is cerebral so you feel like you have a chance at anything
some v8s at climbing centres just look like random colours of paint farted on a wall

in the UK at least
a v8 in LA is a v2 in Sheffield

>>250036
Does this mean you add weight week to week? I've heard that you should only add weight every 3 weeks or so.

Sprayed the faggot shirtless V3 climber award

AITA for being annoyed at stronger climbers giving advice or correcting my beta when I just don't have the physicality or conditioning to execute their beta.

It has happened a few times and most of the time I will humour them by trying their beta but when they continue trying to 'coach' it's annoying as hell.

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>be me UK v3-v4let
>walk into room with two cute girls my age trying a v5
>they can get halfway through the problem but no further
>I figure it looks doable
>ask them for advice on how to start it, give it a couple goes, they go to another room while I struggle
>I can barely even get 1/3 of the way through the problem for half an hour but I keep at it, slowly getting further each try
>the two girls walk in again a little later
>I manage to finish the problem in front of them
>show them how I did it
>they manage to do it too
>have now made new friends
feels good man

>>250386
literally my exact build lmao except you've got more mass on the arms, how the fuck are you only 60 kg at 185?

>>250543
nah, you're fine. stronger climbers should be aware that beta can be dependent on strength.
I think it's really hard to give good advice to weaker climbers. unsolicited advice can be really annoying in any case.

>>250543
I think it depends on the context. If they're genuinely just trying to help and they genuinely think you look like you can handle it it's just a mistake at worst and they're acting in good faith. Also sometimes (depending on the problem) there's basically only one way to do it and you can either do it or you don't. But otherwise yeah if you've got a way of solving the problem that works for you and they're trying to insist you do the "correct" one even though it's completely impossible for you they're being retarded at best and dickish at worst.

>>250543
Might seem frustrating, but I would be glad to receive a feedback.
I literally never got any, no matter how much I struggle with something.
I can sit in front of a boulder for 30 min, trying to figure out first few moves while jacked climber dudes stare at me like I'm some sort of retard and never say a word.
Might be cause it's a big gym, lots of people, usually I'm almost a in queue for a boulder, but still.
Or I'm just special kind of autistic tard, who knows.

>>250559
>I can sit in front of a boulder for 30 min, trying to figure out first few moves while jacked climber dudes stare at me like I'm some sort of retard and never say a word.
I mean literally spending half an hour sat still in silence might be a bit excessive but otherwise sitting and staring at a problem for a while in between attempts is what I see most people who aren't there in a group doing, especially the pros.

>>250559
They're probably aching to give you advice but they're trying to be polite. If you want to know the beta then just ask them.

climbing>>>>>>>climbers

>>250543
The likely reason they're "stronger" than you is because they're used to putting their body in the correct position and working from there and you're not. Take their advice on and try it how they're doing it. It's better to fail 100 times while practicing better technique than to top a climb in 20 because you slopped your way up.

Where my ontariobros at? Climbing is so fun. Only got outside a few times this year unfortunately but back at the gym regularly over the winter.

Hlow do you guys mix weight lifting with your climbing? Do you cater your lifting to climbing? If I lift the day before I climb I know I'll have a bad, frustrating climb. I'm only lifting two days/week right now and only climbing 2 days/week as well.

I'm trying to strike a decent balance between lifting to accomodate climbing and lifting to actually look a little better. Current routines are:

Day 1:
>Weighted pull ups 5x5
>deadlift 5x5
>seated row 3x10
>bicep curl (dumbbell or barbell) 3x10

Day 2:
>Squats 5x5
>barbell bench 5x5
>incline bench 3x10
>lateral raises 3x10

10 mins cardio to warmup, stretch for 10-15 mins after lifting. Obviously the weighted pull ups help with climbing to a degree but I don't really think everything else does, besides being in better shape and just generally stronger.

idk, thoughts? what do your routines look like?

>>250619
>Hlow do you guys mix weight lifting with your climbing? Do you cater your lifting to climbing?
I come from a background of weightlifting. Highest numbers were 465lbs for a double on Deadlift, 385lbs for a set of 5 on squat, 265lbs for a double on bench, and 208lbs on overhead Press. I climb V6-project V7 indoors (and project V4/V5 outdoors).

To answer your question in short - You don't. If you want your climbing to improve, you don't lift. Also, judging by your retarded ass programming
>5x5 sets of deadlifts? You're lifting pussy weight for that to be possible
>Doing deadlifts AFTER doing a set of pullups? Retarded, pre-fatiguing your back and doing an accessory before a main lift.
>Follows up 5x5 bench with 3 sets of additional bench workout
>Genuinely can't tell if you're going for size or strength here, seriously do not do this program if you value being injury free.
You have either never lifted heavy, or have not lifted for very long.

Now, lifting does have its place in climbing, but it's usually supplementary. The obvious choices are weighted pullups, but I think for advanced climbers, squats have their value. I've re-introduced deadlifts during my warmups for board climbing days which has helped dramatically to pre-activate the posterior chain and let me try 100%. But that's about it. Light warmups, never exceeding 225lbs just to start the day.

What grade do you climb? How much do you lift? What's your height and weight? Goals? If you want to become a good climber, you should climb 3-4 hours a week, then after about a year, start introducing hang boarding. If you care about hypertrophy, your climbing will suffer. Climbing is a sport about coordination, not just strength. If you cannot apply your strength properly and keep good body tension, you will fall off everything.

>>250655
retard I probably look better, climb harder, and lift more than you

I max out at ~v7 outside (meaning I can do the moves on a v7 but can't often put them all together unless it's a little soft). 5.11 sport. Most recent lift was 55lbs for pull ups & 265 for diddlies. Can rep 315 for a set of 5. The point isn't to max them out, just get the reps in to build strength in the posterior chain. I put pull ups first because they have more carry over to climbing. Deadlift reps are good for building a big back which helps with aesthetics. God you are retarded and annoying, I can just tell by the way you type.

>>250681
and mind you those climbs are on weeks I lift. If I took a week off from lifting I gain close to a full grade on boulders and sport.

>>250553
skinny legs and very thin in the z-axis, I guess? I disappear when I turn sideways. also you can't tell because it's censored but I've got an ondra neck so there's some extra height that doesn't add much weight.

>>250681
>>250681
I'm trying to help you fucker. Jesus.
>I max out at ~v7 outside (meaning I can do the moves on a v7 but can't often put them all together unless it's a little soft)
By that logic I climb V10. Quit coping, if you haven't sent it, you haven't.
>Can rep 315 for a set of 5.
Am I supposed to be impressed? That's expected within your first 6 months of lifting.
>The point isn't to max them out, just get the reps in to build strength in the posterior chain. I put pull ups first because they have more carry over to climbing.
Then make that your main lift and drop deadlifts.
>Deadlift reps are good for building a big back which helps with aesthetics.
That's true, but not at the fucking rep range you're doing it in. 5 sets of 5 deadlifts is going to fuck you over. It's too much volume, and for little added benefit. If you wanna build a monster back but still want to pull heavy (with half the stress), do rackpulls below the knee. Easily helps build back strength without fatiguing the shit out of you and your CNS.
>God you are retarded and annoying, I can just tell by the way you type.
You whine like a pansy.

Want to get better at climbing right now? Drop the fucking deadlift 5x5 shit, or lower it to a heavy set of 5 done once a week, or 2 sets of triples. Most climbers have this idea that stupid high amounts of volume will help them, but it's usually the opposite, they get tired then wonder why they can't execute their strength.

If you want to prioritize exercises with the biggest carryover to climbing, focus on weighted pulls, keep that at the same volume (ideally lower until you plateau), and focus on shit like lock offs, while including hangboarding.

Chest stuff won't affect your climbing, so keep doing that if you want aesthetics.

>>250683
my legs (along with my back) are probably the strongest part of my body, although visually they're not exactly huge. I'm somewhat of a pack mule when it comes to carrying heavy shit on my bad and walking far, which is useful as I'm going into the army.

On that note, can any anons weigh in on whether the kind of physical outcomes you get from climbing is particularly good as part of military fitness? I don't climb for that specific reason but I've always kind of assumed that the kind of full-body, functional strength and dexterity that you get from climbing is pretty compatible with military fitness.

>>250681
>I max out at ~v7 outside (meaning I can do the moves on a v7 but can't often put them all together unless it's a little soft).
>5.11 sport

Lmao doing the moves on a v7 is not nearly the same as actually doing a v7 you gumby. Your outdoor grade is v4 max!

>>250681
>meaning I can do the moves on a v7 but can't often put them all together unless it's a little soft
anon what the fuck does that even mean

wmaf climber chads ww@

>>250885
Not a single AF I have dated has been interested in climbing. Sad world.

>>250885
>>250904
NTA but like 30-40% of the people at my climbing center are asian. The rest is a random mix of people although virtually no black people, I actually can't think of the last time I saw a black guy at my climbing center.

>>250885

>>250885

made friends with 3 Chinese girls through climbing. Not a sex thing but we get on well. I have been to their place for food and they are affectionate and kind. I like being friends with them.

>>250917
I honestly wish I had more female friends
Pretty much all of my close friends are guys, there's some girls I know relatively well but I don't really hang out with them. Then there's my girlfriend, and the autistic chick I've known for five years, loved, and have had sex twice with, but I don't really hang out with her, just send memes to and get memes back every now and then. I think I struggle to care about unattractive women, whilst being unable to see attractive women in a non-platonic sense. I recognise this is an issue.

>>250921

I think the secret for me as a guy who has a lot of female friends is that to have genuine female friendships you have to truly and sincerely in your heart of hearts NOT see them as fuckable, because I feel like for most men it makes it so there will be an inclination to try to pursue something more later on. I never wanted to fuck ANY of my female friends for various reasons: They're fat, or my friend's girlfriends, or ugly or whatever - I just ain't interested. One of those Asian girls is intimately friends with me - calls me slurs all the time and vice versa. We bicker a lot and even physically fight: people say we are like siblings and she wants me to meet her family. I kiss her on the head and tell her I love her and vice versa and do things like making sure she has enough food like I do for my actual little sister, but the key to this kind of relationship is I truly, sincerely in my heart of hearts do NOT want to fuck her. I truly DO see her as a sister and my affection really IS platonic. In fact, she's dating a friend of mine who I introduced her to.

I think it helps that I have an actual sister and was raised mostly by women in a nearly all-female inter-generational household. It probably did something to my psychology as a kid to grow up in that world. When you talk to women every day in an intimate setting you see all their struggles, insecurities, ambitions etc and start to see them as people.

I can't be friends with women because I'm too hot and they all want to fuck me

>>250969
this but unironically

>>250914
Climbing is a sport for the privileged, especially in cities.

>>250981
It's also an intellecally demanding sport. Just putting that out there. If you compute the ratio of black chess grandmasters to all grandmasters, then do something similar for climbing, you get an interesting trends.

Just putting it out that we have to re-normalize racism, transphobia, homophobia, and colonialism.

>>250981

costs me about 350 at my gym for a yearly membership, which is not really that much to spend on your hobby if it's one of your main hobbies. most people have like one or two hobbies they focus on and then a few bits of random entertainment. If you climb 2 or 3 times a week and then also like playing games an hour or two a day, then sporadically do other stuff, you're pretty much living a reasonably fun life and you're not spending crazy money, really. probably both of those hobbies together will run you maybe 1k a year, which seems like a pretty reasonable amount to spend on hobbies a year.

>>251005
damn that's cheap. I'm paying $120/mo.

>>250758
post body faggot
>by that logic I climb V10
wrong nigger, I have climbed outdoor V7s but they might be ones considered on the softer side depending on who you ask. Reading comprehension isn't a strong suit of this board is it?

>That's true, but not at the fucking rep range you're doing it in. 5 sets of 5 deadlifts is going to fuck you over. It's too much volume, and for little added benefit. If you wanna build a monster back but still want to pull heavy (with half the stress), do rackpulls below the knee. Easily helps build back strength without fatiguing the shit out of you and your CNS.
You clearly have little idea what you are talking about in regards to climbing and 0 idea what you are talking about in terms of lifting
Seriously, post body, I want to see what kind of a twink faggot I'm talking to. And post a video of you climbing simple because I would like to laugh.

>>250782
Can you read? I've done V7s, some people might just consider them "soft" ones, or ones that fit distinctly into my style. You can't climb a ladder much less a v4.

>>250815
>anon what the fuck does that even mean
Is everyone here retarded or are you all pretending?

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>>251012
>post body faggot
Picrel, you /fit/izen dyel.
>Reading comprehension isn't a strong suit of this board is it?
I can tell you climb at some soft doughboy gym by how antagonistic you're being. Jesus christ just start the pill already and fuck off to /fit/. You say retarded shit then ask people not to call you out on it?
>You clearly have little idea what you are talking about in regards to climbing and 0 idea what you are talking about in terms of lifting
That's just like, your opinion man. I don't take advice from someone who's never lifted more than 400lbs (on either squat or dead).

Just give up on climbing guy. You seem like you have alot you're trying to impress with, and you come off like a sperging autist. Leave /fit/ behind if you want to add meaning to your life, trust me bro.

>>251010
that's crazy, I'm spending 199 GBP for a three month student deal

>>251005
Where do you live? 350 won't even get me 3 months membership.

Climbing is expensive. Especially compared to almost every other mainstream sports.

>>250981
>>251005
>>251041
>>251046
you guys realise you can just climb on buildings and stuff for free right
trespassing is illegal but it doesn't have an inherent price tag

boulder Brighton is really based bouldering gym
mental how it's basically the only one in Sussex and there's a billion in Donedon

>>251031
>>251012
can't even keep track of what's going on here
just fuck off

>>250681
you sound like a complete fucking retard
bet you climb v7 in LA aka a v2 in Sheffield

>>250567
elite trurhie

>>250921
> I think I struggle to care about unattractive women, whilst being unable to see attractive women in a non-platonic sense
dam. yeah that's true

>>250981
I agree
bouldering is tarq
not tennis tier but close

that captain cutloose guy is a giga tarq and he's basically the average boulderer

>>251069
wtf is tarq anon

>>251013
Urine idiot hopefully you climb off a cliff

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I went back and sent the 5.5
I love climbing outdoors I can't wait until I can lead more than 1 route in a day without having a panic attack
You may NOT unsubscribe from my blog

>>251013
>acting like the shit
>climbs v7
lol

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>>251092
Good job anon. I don't want to unsubscribe from your blog. Post pics of your climbs

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>>251098
Thanks fren. I'll post a pic from the top next time. It was a beginner route in clear creek canyon, you can probably imagine the view from the top if you've climbed in the area. As much as I love the rock at CCC I'll try another crag next time that's closer to my belay partner
Weirdly enough lowering from the top was way scarier than leading up it. Probably a control thing combined with the inherent spookiness of ledgy low angle slab. I'll try my hand at a vertical 5.9 to get a lot of practice falls in

>>251110
>practice falls
desu I never do this I just climb one grade below my limit and never fall. it seems like a good thing to do though. be careful.

gripping a hold and pulling hard is a great feeling. don't understand people who enjoy slab
bit of a natural griplet though, unfortunately. taken me two years to even get to 150% bw 20mm max and I'm not sure it's ever going to go up further

>>251132
You'll never blow a pulley on slab thoughbeit

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-ArgSCGmZU
it was an exciting final

>>251164
how come climbing seems so popular with asians? I mentioned earlier but like 30% of the people at my center are asians, in a city where they're not necessarily that big of a demographic (although they are like 30% of students). Mostly chinese but I think I heard a few japanese dudes one time. I don't have a problem with it, they're actually easily the most respectful and friendly people there a lot of the time, just didn't realise if it was something specific to them

>>251171
A better question is why they don't climb outside at all either in western counties with good crags or in their own countries with decent to excellent crags depending on what flavor of asian they are, they seem to exclusively pull plastic or think climbing outside isn't worth posting on the internet about

>>251010
>>251046

UK. My gym is one of the best in the country, too. I don't remember my exact membership cost but it was somewhere around 350. I flew into Europe recently though and the yearly memberships here are around 650 which seems crazy to me

>>251069

What does tarq mean? I googled it and it came back with nothing.

>>251061

I climb in Yorkshire and my friend from America says the grading here is soft lol

>>251172
my mom doesn't let me play outside. Can't wait till I'm 35 and can finally move out

>>251110
I live 10 minutes from CCC. I probably saw you. Good job anon and definitely try some more stuff in CCC later, some great routes here. I recommend the catslab area if you like easy routes, short approach too.

>>251164
they're good genetically

>>251132
>>251278
I know you're the same fucking person. I'm sick of your complaining. Kys.

>>251273
Thanks fella. I will give catslab a shot. Slab is so terrifying yet I can see how quickly it forces you to develop good footwork and trust your dam feet which is essential for a noob like me
>tfw you're forced to stand straight up or even have your weight back on your heels slightly on a smooth low angle ledge for several seconds as you desperately search the blank bulge in front of you for anything to grab onto
It makes me sick to my stomach yet I want more
>I probably saw you
If you did, be thankful it was a cloudy morning, else you might've been blinded by my mirror-like fivehead catching the sun

I JUST DID A FUCKING PULLUP WITH 100LBS ADDED! LETS FUCKING GO GENTS.
>I climb V4 on kilter.

>>251425
Woah nelly good work

can i get into climbing completely by myself i don't like people

>>251444
In theory bouldering would be for you but climbing gyms and bouldering crags are so full of loud faggots you'd probably hate it
As someone who hates people and especially climbing people it'd be better to find just one outdoor climbing partner you can tolerate. Tough part is getting someone experienced to waste time on your noob ass. Personally I just taught non-climbing friends to belay as best I could and trust them while I lead lmao

>>251444
Yea easily. Bouldering would be the most accessible. If you want to climb indoors just go there before noon or late in the evening. That's when there's basically noone in the gym.
For outdoor bouldering, just pick some less popular boulders or again, go at the hours everyone else is at work.
You can also try lead rope soloing if you are brave enough and have the money for all that gear.