As a gym climber who now goes outdoors once a month, how can I excel at outdoor climbs? Pumping out is less of an issue for me than finger strength. Devils lake is kicking my ass right now, but in a good way. I liked breaking the beta at certain times, but some routes just seem to demand pulling your entire bw on nickel crimps

Have just had two absolute banger sessoins over the last couple of days, and ticked off 21 benchmark 7a+'s on the 2024 mb. 5 remaining now, all of which will probably take me a little bit of projecting, but super phyched to move on to the 7b's!!
Favourite one I sent was shark bite.
>>243699
Board training

>>243714
>Board training
Bro literally what? The crimps on that suck. In fact I just tried a moonboard at 40degrees (newest set), jfc I can't even do a V4. The crimps are too fucking hard. I can do them like once or twice, but then after a few attempts, literally all the cruxes become impossible.

>>243741
Go to the spraywall and create your own boulders. Make them from decent holds but add one or two crimps that are hard for you. Make it so you are able to do them in a few tries. Not some insanely hard project. Eventually you can add more crimps and harder crimps to the boulders.
I used to make 2 boulders for this when I started, each one had a bad crimp for each hand so I train them more or less equally. Plus, creating the problems yourself is fun.

>>243699
Over gripping is common moving from indoors to outdoors. It's good to practice indoors and out on relaxing on the holds, seeing how little strength you can exert while still holding on. Might help you

>>243741
>The crimps on that suck
Thats the point

>>243741
>newest set
>can't even do a V4
>The crimps are too fucking hard
Lmao try the 2016 or 2019 version then, they're even more brutal.
But it's a fantastic training tool for finger strength, body tension and pure fucking power.
Probably nothing better to train for hard outdoor boulders than the moonboard.

I live in Russia and have been rock climbing for four years now (for the last year, I've been going to the gym once a week. I know it's not enough, but I devote as much time as I have). I weigh only 65 kg and am 180 cm tall, but I can easily climb 6B+ and, with difficulty, 7A. So, I agree with the author: the entry barrier to this sport is very low (unless you're wheelchair-bound, of course).

I'm using a translator, so errors are possible :)

>>243804
This is such beginner advice, appreciated, but hardly useful. I'm no stranger to climbing outdoors, I just hardly get to do it because I'm a midwest fag with Governor's dodge and Devil's Lake being my closest to me (and both 3+ hours away). But I'm trying to atone for my faggot living situation by choosing to drive to explore more.

Devils lake has some nice climbs (sandbagged as fuck). I could project their 5.10a's and 5.10bs, but jesus christ, the 5.10c felt like my gym 5.11d. The crimps on this glassy ass rock are kicking my ass. I straight up could not get up even with 20 takes. 5mm crimps go crazy, when you have next to no feet to use. Maybe an /out/ gentleman can help me.

Picture this. There's this climb you really want to do. And you and your friends start it at the same time. You can barely do the first move, it takes everything you have, but then your friends get the entire climb first. So you relax, assume you'll get it next session. But then you don't. Then you can only get another sequence. Then repeat this for months.

Wouldn't you be frustrated? When you can never guarantee a send? When it gets taken off the wall and replaced by another boulder before you had time to do half of it? Don't you think that's so frustrating? Then you tell me not to compare, but then literally everyone I climb with is able to do it effortlessly. And when I say that, No, I don't think they aren't trying. But they aren't trying as hard as ME. I WANT it. I give it my all. I climb until I'm physically unable to. ANd no matter how much I want it, or put effort into it, it gets me little progress. But literally nobody else seems to have this issue, or even care about it at all. Then, whenever I ask someone for advice, they give me some random vapid explanation and expect it to work the first time.

Regardless of whether or not you experienced this, don't you think that this would make someone frustrated?

tfw crushed my pinky while failing to properly rerack a 60lb dumbbell and now it hurts to use it while climbing
time to 3 finger drag everything I guess

>>243943
>The chad 3 finger dragger versus the virgin half crimper.
Based.
>>243940
Look bro, what you're feeling is real, but fixation will actively fuck you over. You literally said it yourself
>Add no matter how much I want it, or put effort into it, it gets me little progress.
You probably are progressing, just slowly. Confirmation bias hits hard when you climb solo, try climbing with people at your level. But pretty much every gym bro goes through that. Climbing outdoors will make it so you never feel like that, because you're too busy having fun that the progress just comes by itself. I know its gonna hurt to hear this but for your own sake just keep climbing. Climb to have FUN.

>>243940
People that fail to progress despite giving lots of effort, especially newbies, are almost always missing something fundamental about training. Either they don't know what's missing, or they know and tell themselves that somehow that fundamental principle isn't important or doesn't apply to them

I won't claim to know your situation, but I would put money on the fact that you're missing something crucial.

Trying hard is no guarantee for success. If you were to park your ass under a v15, you can try as hard as you want, you would never ever make progress on it if you didn't have the skills and strength needed to pull and move between the holds. In this situation, you could easily be frustrated, but no amount of effort would be enough to overcome your deficiency. It's not always a matter of effort.

I've been climbing for a long time and I often see people in the gym spinning their wheels. Same problems, year in and year out. Usually noobs make the following crucial mistakes:

>they have no concept of rest between attempts
>they consistently select problems that are too easy or too hard
>they don't attempt to make a mental model of their climbs and just wing it every time, no strategy
>they aren't aware of or ignore their weaknesses
>they are physically very weak and don't bother doing targeted training to address it

>>243835
how do you get used to the crimps? My fingers slip the fuck off.

>>243946
>they have no concept of rest between attempts
I rest at least 3 minutes, sometimes 5 between boulders.
>they consistently select problems that are too easy or too hard
How do you make this determination? This is completely subjective.
>they don't attempt to make a mental model of their climbs and just wing it every time, no strategy
Probably my biggest weakness. Sometimes I record myself, but oftentimes I'm employing beta someone else is doing and I can't execute it because of strength.
>they aren't aware of or ignore their weaknesses
I get criticized by my friends for saying my finger strength is a weakness.
>they are physically very weak and don't bother doing targeted training to address it
Doesn't apply to me. I'm a meatball, used to lift before climbing. I have benched, squatted, deadlifted, and overheadpressed more than 95% of climbers ever will. But my fingers are dogshit.

I get stuck on single problems on kilter for months, just because there's a sequence I keep pumping out on, and nothing seems to get better. But I know I am improving. My body tension's getting better, I find ways to break beta, I have better heel hooks, drop knees, etc. But when that doesn't translate to sends it makes me feel like garbage. After all - Am I really better if I still can't crack a particular V6 on kilter?

Then I start hangboarding and increasing volume and it just feels like more of the same.

>>243953
Started with isolated moves that I could do, using the best holds the Moonboard had to offer. I think I started with benchmarks directly, I managed to send "The Warm Up Problem" on the 2019 set after a few weeks and after doing the first one the others came soon after.
As much as it sucks, take your time and work your way up slowly.

Or be a naturally gifted freak like a friend of mine and go from starting moonboarding to #2 in my country and top 15 worldwide within one year...

>https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2025/oct/02/balin-miller-climber-death-el-capitan

>>243986
>https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2025/oct/02/balin-miller-climber-death-el-capitan


Link to the actual fall?

>>243986
Anyone have a link to the video?

>>243986
ok?

>>243989
>>244016
It’s not that interesting, he just rappels of a rope that’s not long enough and falls out of frame. Tie your stopper knots, they save lives

>>243986
>>243989
>>244016
>Anyone have a link to the video?
It's in the dedicated thread...
>>244018

>>243965
I would stick with the hangboarding, be consistent with it for a few months and I don't think finger strength will be a weakness for you at your grade level. Make sure you progressively overload, don't just do the same weight every sesh and expect to progress.

You might be giving grades too much credit, grades on boards are all over the place. I have climbed quite a few v7-10 outdoors and still get rekt on certain benchmark moonboard problems way below my grade, or even my flash grade. Problems are morpho, sandbagged, soft, they're all over the place. I have flashed benchmark V8 on the tb2 at 45 degrees and there are benchmark v6s on that board that feel absolutely ridiculous.

I started climbing about 2-3 months ago. To start off, I got LS Tarantulas as advised. Flat, snug, but not super tight.
I am currently at about V3-4. I think, I have a limited frame of reference.
I don't wanna blame my shoes but it does seem like it sucks at smearing and it has stretched out too much despite sizing from my street size.

Is it normal for me to want to get newer shoes now or am I premature in wanting to upgrade. I was hoping my first shoe would last me my first year of climbing. I was thinking of getting the scarpa vapor v.

>>244091
>I would stick with the hangboarding, be consistent with it for a few months and I don't think finger strength will be a weakness for you at your grade level.
Duly noted. Some other stuff you said helped. I cracked a boulder this week that's been on the side for awhile by recording each attempt and correcting my beta for it. Also helps to know that grades are subjective even at the higher levels.

Got any hangboarding advice? People say not to increase the weight too fast, but the sets. Something I found is just do max hangs, start at 4 sets, if it feels easy, go to 5, then 6. Then after 3ish weeks, increase the weight slightly.

>>244166
Your shoes are fine. A stronger climber could flash your project in flip flops. Don't worry about your next pair until they wear holes in the toe.

>>244266
My personal experience with hangboarding was very positive, here is what I did:

>Pick grip types that are widely applicable to climbing. For me, it made the most sense to just focus on half crimp and 3 finger drag.
>Pick an edge size that you can easily hang bw as a starting point
>Test your max weight for each grip type that you can hang for some time, say 10s. So you would start at bw and then add weight to your self until you fail to hang for 10s. Note your max for each grip type.
>Your starting weight for your hangboarding routine will be your max minus some amount of weight. For example if you were able to hang for 10s on a 20mm edge in half crimp with bw+20lbs, start your hangboarding training block at just bw. If you could hang bw+50lbs, start at bw+30lbs. The point is to give yourself a margin so you're not maxing out right away.
>From there, do a typical max hang protocol. For max hangs, you want to do short duration hangs with lots of rest between each hang. A good starting routine would be 4-6 sets per grip type, each set is 10s of hanging followed by ~3 mins of rest.
>Increase the load progressively. If you have access to very small weights, you can increase the weight every session by something small, like 1-2lbs, and just do that indefinitely until you plateau. If you don't have access to micro weights, just increase the load every few sessions by 5lbs.
>Keep going until you plateau, then deload some amount, repeat.

You can also progressively overload by doing more sets at a certain weight, but I really like the idea of just adding weight at the same amount of sets.

I went from hanging bw + 20lb in half crimp on a 20mm edge to bw + 105lbs on 20mm in about a years time using this protocol. 3 finger drag went from bw to bw+80lbs. Climbing on crimps went from a weakness to a strength, and the 3fd helped a lot with sloper strength and making full use of my reach.

>>244279
Very interesting... What about training pinches? The pinch is a weakness of mine as well...

Also, is doing both half crimp AND three finger drag the same day a good idea? That's basically like double overloading the same joints? What do you do if your fingers get tweaky? Do you climb on the days you hangboard? Did you personally get better results from 4 sets versus 5 or 6?

>>244281
Any grip is valid as long as long as it makes sense to you. If pinches are a weakness, I don't see why not other than it might be hard on a hangboard.

I found half crimp/3 finger drag to compliment each other well specifically because they load the tendons differently. I felt fine doing both in a sesh, whereas when I tried doing both half and full crimp that felt like too much.

As far as sets, I started each of my training blocks with 6 sets per grip and progressed to 4 sets as the weights got heavier. I found I could tolerate more volume after a deload, and that reducing volume while continuing to increase weight towards the end of a training block allowed me to push past plateaus easier.

Back then I would climb 3 days a week and hangboard twice a week. I would tweak my sessions such that if I was hangboarding the same day or on the previous rest day, I would avoid overly crimpy climbs. An example week:
M-climb (no crimpy) + hang
T-rest
W-climb
Th-hang
F-rest
S-climb outside
Su-rest

>>244283
Really good template, thanks for the advice and I'll see if I can implement it. I might prefer hanging before a climb, that way I can really put effort into it.

>>244166
I made the exact same mistake. The website I got the shoes from actually recommended one size down for the tarantulas, even for a beginner. I've definitely lost performance in some coin type footholds but I'm struggling to justify the cost of newer shoes

If your foot fits it well, the mad rock drone series of shoes are a good step up from beginner shoes and are pretty affordable, around $130 new. They have the famous cheater heel and it really works.

>>244305
Yeah. If I curl my toes there's about a thumb's worth of space in the toe box. And I downsized 1 size from my street shoe size.
I wish I was given actual advice rather than the standard
>Oh don't worry about down sizing at this stage, just get your usual street size for comfort.

I like slabs too, and now standing on small edges is just frustrating.

It might be because of my shitty schedule change but over these last few weeks I went from climbing a few V6's in my gym to barely being able to do some V4's. Time to promptly kill myself.

>>244338
Good man. Let he who climbs for fun get raped and die in shame. Let us who chase grades die with honor. Seppuku is the clear option of choice. >Bro it's just a hobby
I'm going to kill your dog.

>>244336
Your shoes are way too big. Downsize more. 1 size down is just a rule of thumb, I went 3 sizes down until my shoe fit how I wanted it to.

I'm taking a deload after weeks of high intensity and high volume. All I'm noticing is that each day, I'm more sore than the last, the fuck is happening. 4 days in and it's hard to get out of bed

>find shoe with perfect toebox... heel is fucked
>find shoe with nice fitting heel... toebox is too small
This is so frustrating

>>244553
Real, but take time experimenting with different shoes. Toebox fit is more important than heel fit, so prioritize that, but just try diferent pairs every now and then and climb on

I shifted my reality to focus on raw improvement. I haven't skipped a climbing session in two months now, and my gains are steadily coming. Better body tension, better footwork, I'm able to execute old projects with flow and effortlessness. I'd say the biggest boon to my climbing has just been the consistency. Back in April-June, I took a really lax approach, going 1-2 a week but going hard, and I think my body really needed the volume because while there was improvement, it felt milder. Instead of going 7-8 times a month, I'm now going 10-11, this 40% increase in time on the wall is significant.

For moonboard 'no kickboard' problems, are you allowed to smear the kickboard as long as you dont use the foot chips?
I was trying Monooqlo Tokyo 7b on the 2024 set, and I can skip the toe hook and move straight to the first hold by smearing the kickboard which made me think it wasnt allowed. But in all the send videos with the toe hook they are also smearing the kickboard with their other foot so im a little unclear on the rules.

>tfw v4 subhuman
It's so fucking over for me.

>>245020
If you keep comparing yourself to others, you will never enjoy anything.
I've had more fun projecting V3 than flashing V4.
Just look for something that looks cool and try it. Every time you manage to do one more move is a win.

>>245087
I know, but still...

File: IMG20251014164813.jpg (2.24 MB, 4000x1816)

2.24 MB JPG

Behold, my home wall. 45 degrees, 12 feet of diagonal, 16 feet wide.

>>245087
>LMFAO look at this bozo who can't be better than 70% of climbers on day one.
>KYS LOSER
Based chad mentality.

>>245181
How did you set that up? Was it expensive? I'm a normie fag who doesn't know anything about woodworking or construction. How can I acquire the skills to build this without having it collapse on me?

>>245192
I'm a normies too, I had a wall builder help me. It's a pretty simple design, with proper wood working tools it's feasible to do it your self. I think petzl has a home wall building guide that is very thorough and can be followed step by step.

>>245192
Metolius has a guide
https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf

>>245181
How you went about the rock holds, and how tall is the celing? i want to build a home wall with rock holds

50 or 55 degrees on the Kilterboard?
60 feels too much like roof climbing already while 45 is too soft

>>245535
55° obviously, even 50° is soft

>>245460
The rock holds are from a company called realstoneholds. They're pretty affordable compared to other companies doing stone holds.

The ceiling is ~9ft, so for the bottom/back portion of the wall I dug about 1ft down into the soil to make room for a kick board. I'll probably dig the whole floor down a foot eventually but it's a pain in the ass to do by hand as each square foot of dirt weighs about 100lbs and there is a shitload to take out.

File: nice.gif (2.6 MB, 320x240)

2.6 MB GIF

got my first 1-5-8 yesterday

>>245648
That's very impressive anon, gz

>>245192
It’s expensive and time consuming. Expect to spend twice as much on climbing holds as you will on materials. It’s fun to set problems at first but it gets a little old after a while. Unless you have no gym within 50 miles I’d argue a home climbing wall is a waste of space and effort despite being a cool idea

>>245648
How long did it take you?
I just started with this section of the gym and even those big round logs are kind of bitch.

>>245685
31 years old, training boulder with medium intensity on-off since 18 or so. currently probably a year or two of active training without much time off or injuries, few times a week. no specific training for campusing, just in peak shape currently.

just found out the ifsc event is being held in Fukuoka japan this weekend where I happen to be. bought tix for the boulder finals on saturday. Mao is going to be there and is my climbing waifu but I can't be a weird white monkey trying to talk to her lol. should I bring a sign with me that says /xs/ or something else autistic?

>>245777
definitely not bro just enjoy it like a normal person. sounds dope.

>>245777
Definitely take an autistic sign. Something like "Professionally brushing toes" or "I'm here for the armpit kino"

I have been stuck at like 160% bw 20mm max hang since spring this year. Been hangboarding for two years in total. I think there is a massive genetic component to this and my fingers just aren't particularly strong
I have started doing 14mm max hang as well, and this is still going up, to see if it can spur on my 20mm and create some of kind synergetic effect. But really, I don't have good finger strength genetics really

I did get stuck at like 130% for ages, but after I broke that plateau it went up rapidly- maybe the same thing will happen again and I'll be at 180 bw soon. But really my fingers just aren't that strong, I have seen zoomers hangboarding more than me and they aren't even routine hangboarders. Annoying because I am pretty strong gym-wise

>>245873
Stop blaming genetics, if you've climbed for less than 10 years, you're not close to your genetic ceiling. Gains take longer the more you train, but also a sudden plateau doesn't just happen for no reason. Assuming you're getting proper protein intake, sleep, and nutrition, you need to find other ways to progressively overload your fingers. Consider doing one arm hangs, or keep training smaller edges as you are. There are various programs that don't just rely on max hangs, things like repeater variants, or simply hangboarding more often. If progress halts, it is usually because you are not being stimulated enough. Happens in lifting all the time. Alternatively, maybe too much volume is the problem. Consider hangboarding close to your 100%, but for less time and having longer rests between individual sets and between hangboarding days.

Keep a dedicated training log so you can see what works and what doesn't.

A fairly decent post there, thanks
But I don't need to keep any kind of log because I am not a memorylet/brainlet

>>245873
Do a round of repeaters for a few months. That broke me out of my plateau. I attribute it to way higher volume leading to forearm hypertrophy vs max hangs where it's super low volume and mostly neuromuscular adaptation. I went from 150% to about 180% on my next max hang block.

Watching the finals now
Do they ever share their DJ mixes anywhere on the internet? They're too good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBxtF11EuHY

Yo climbcels, is it possible to get kinda decent with 1x per week indoor climbing or is that "forever hardstuck at being able to do a few 7As that fit my style" tier?

>>246084
Hardstuck for sure. Even 2x a week super intense session is pretty much maintenance imo (unless you do stuff outside of climbing like finger training)

>>246086
Sounds like it's pretty much impossible to get anywhere with climbing if you also want to do other physical shit like regular lifting or running desu.

Running seems easy enough

>>246087
>>246274
Yeah, combining climbing and running is no problem in my opinion.
I suck at both though, so dunno how long it would take to climb e.g. 8A and run <18min/5k

>>243692

Ripped the entire fucking door handle out of the bathroom door at my climbing gym's toilets last week when I tried to open the door

>>243692

Do any pros train at your gym? There are a few olympians at mine. I've spoken to them briefly before one watched me do a route once for a bit and he looked mildly amused at my really unconventional beta. It's really wild to me that I'm here climbing V4 and there are literal olympic athletes sharing the training area with me

>>246560
What country?

>>246560
colin duffy occasionally climbs at my gym. he's an absolute monster, my gym has some very hard boulders (v12+) and he cruises them. it's humbling to see.

one time I saw him doing a sesh on the TB2 and told him about some v8 I thought was sandbagged, he cruised the shit out of it. idk why I thought it would be any different lol

>>246560
I dont know if they used to be pros, but there are few people at my gym that crush everything.
It's really insane seeing them being so strong and effortlessly just cruise things.
Their warm up is harder then my projects.

>>246560
There's a guy that used to compete internationally and he lead climbs in crocs which is funny to see. Sometimes he even climbs feet first on some easier routes in the overhang.
There are also younger guys and girls that compete currently. It is wild to see them cruise up almost everything in the gyms.

>>246560
Toby roberts used to climb occasionally at my old gym, very very strong

A2 pulley on my right hand has been kinda fucked for the last month. Still climbing and trying to do recovery exercises for it, but i wake up in the middle of the night to it hurting and feeling swollen. During the day it's fine assuming im not jabbing into my finger. Any recommendations or advice, or should I just keep doing what im doing until it finally goes away? I didn't tear it or anything, as it was just a pain that gradually appeared.

>>246900
If the pain is bad enough that it's waking you at night then I'd recommend taking a couple of weeks off climbing. Just do slabs or some shit and continue the rehab exercises.

>>246900
>>246934
Not to be that guy but if you are waking up to pain in the finger I think you're far past the point of taking a couple weeks break.

Go see some doctor or some shit. Also never really tore any of my pulleys but the closest I had was sharp pain when crimping, so I dont know how can you fuck your finger that badly when it just "gradually" appeared.

Hope you heal asap but don't neglect the first signs of finger injury the next time, it's never worth it.

>>246560
I trained at the School Room for a while back when i was at university and climbed with a bunch of them in a small space. The first time I saw Bosi climbing on the 50 degree board I couldn't believe what I was seeing - it was like watching someone from some supreme alien climbing race. There levels upon levels to this shit nigga

How much did off the wall training affect your climbing?
I'm currently projecting at around a 7B+/7C level and only training I am doing is a lot of board climbing. Was considering introducing a couple of hours of strength training twice a week targeting my weaknesses and was wondering how effective something similar has been for any of you lovely people.

Also just got top 50 uk moonboard ranking yayyy :)

>>247112

Where do you train anon? I'm in Leeds.

Also I am not anywhere near as experienced as you, but for what it's worth, I add 3x5 deadlifts and squats at the end of my climbing (after a meal and a rest) to train my legs and on my off days when I don't climb I take out my rings and parallettes and I do pull ups and push ups as well as core work

lads, do your isometrics. It works on all joints and ligaments. My shoulder and knee tweak improved in about a week.
https://youtu.be/BnFzjcPTSsc

How do you get better at campusing?
Do you need to be able to do shit ton of pull ups?
Unless the holds are total jugs and close to each other I can't campus shit.

File: images.jpg (22 KB, 527x379)

22 KB JPG

>>247198
You get better at it by campusing. Hope this helps anon

>>247112
In my personal experience, besides short cycles of weighted pull-ups it did nothing but take energy away from my climbing. People get so bogged down in the minutia of getting good and end up falling into these traps, where you have faggots like lattice ready to take advantage of you, sell you this idea that you can plank your way to v10 and take your time and money.

Most people I climbed with who were really good (i.e. V11-13 range) just lived out of their vans and climbed on rock every day or board climbed when it's raining. They didn't lift weights barely at all or do faggot snake oil salesman tyler nelson newest guaranteed results protocol, they just climbed on rock as much as possible and tried as hard as possible which is a massively understated skill in itself.

>>247166
>2 hours of two reddit power user dorks nerding out over training
no thanks mate

>>247143
I'm based in coventry, how are the gyms in Leeds?

>>247210
While I agree that the best training for climbing is climbing, surely some supplementary strength training for areas you are lacking can't hurt?
Theres a guy I know who is about my level and does loads of strength training, and while I think i'm better than him in most areas, he can absolutely piss up shoulder moves which feel completely impossible to me. Of course I could focus on working shouldery climbs but I would imagine it would be more efficient to simply do some shoulder exercises in the gym.

>>247419

Really good. Max Milne trains at my gym as do some young pros and it's really cool having such a contrast between people of their skill level and the beginners. Everyone here is super friendly and affable and also very professional. I really enjoy the scene. I'd say the big chains have more cunty staff members but the gym I train at has SUPER friendly staff that really feel more like friends than staff. I'm actually friends with one of the girls who works there and we are going out for high tea tomorrow.

I've never made any friends through climbing

>>247540
I've made almost all my friends through climbing

>>247617
I've made almost all my friends go climbing

Has anyone come across or heard anything about counterfeit climbing shoes? I was just in china, which has a great climbing scene btw, and the shoes there are soooooo cheap. Way cheaper than what I can get them for where I'm at.

And I'm talking Scarpa / La sportiva, not random no name chinese brands.

There is like a 40 euro difference(!!!) compared to the Scarpa official msrp on their website. I have seen the shoes on shelves and honestly they look legit and I doubt there is some large scale counterfeiting operation going on since the prices was the same everywhere. Is it just regional pricing?

I would imagine the shoes are mostly made in China, even the ones that say they're "made" (aka finished) in Italy or whatever.
Have you looked at the tags?

>>247644
>Scarpa official msrp
Msrp is a scam.
I've got my shoes way cheaper from some random online sport shop and I'm in Europe.
Something like 120 euro vs 230 dollars msrp.

>>247665
Yeah but I'm not talking about some random online shop in China. I'm talking everywhere, every gym, every store. There was no discount, no sales, no clearance going on. Their msrp is 40 euros cheaper.

>>247661
Doesn't Scarpa insist their shoes are made in Italy? I'll take a look at the tags when I can.

I finally got to a 11% bodyweight max hang. Did 3 sets of 10 seconds. LFG.

>>247684
Every online retailer in the EU like Oliunid has a similar price difference compared to the official stores.

>>247691
Got higher grades or feel stronger when climbing?
Thinking about starting a hangboard routine (mostly for my injury-prone fingers)

>>247691
On what kind of a bar/fingerboard? Beastmaker 20mm holds? Pull-up bar? something else?

>>247698
I wasn't trying to hangboard-max, but I've noticed that I'm projecting V6s/V7s with substantially less effort, but mainly the gains came from moonboarding and kilterboarding at steep angles. I think I just have better body tension, thanks in part to pulling strength.
>Thinking about starting a hangboard routine (mostly for my injury-prone fingers)
I'm still new to it myself, still taking things hella slow.
>>247699
I use the Grindstone Mk 2 20mm holds (bottom left holds). The thing feels slopey, and honestly feels more akin to a 16-18mm than a 20mm.

Contact strength >> Finger strength

>>247729
Advice?

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Is this 8a?

>>247462
Mfw citybloc

>>247697
Damn, I have only ever been comparing my local prices with Amazon and rock+run. Never heard of this site. I guess I have been getting ripped off by my local gyms and retailers. That's what I get for supporting local retailers I guess.

>>247752
Supporting small businesses is, without fail, a scam and a waste of money!

>>247751
bro do you train at citybloc? I'll go there and climb with you sometime if you like : D

>>247800
Nah valley newcastle, only been once for a comp. when i climb in Leeds once or twice a year i mainly do lsd, better vibes for a one off session

>>247751
First move is fucking wild, rest of it isnt too bad though

>>247808

Fair. I gotta say citybloc is a mix of intense and friendly. The people there train quite seriously for the most part if they're regulars, but they're also all friendly.

my gym gets cold now in the winter and normally i just wear a shirt and some sport shorts. what do you guys wear to keep a little warmer when it gets a bit colder inside?

Do you guys generally find gym memberships worth it? And if yes how often does your gym reset its routes?
The gyms in my area make a membership only barely worth it if you climb at their locations 3 times a week and they take up to 2-3 weeks to fully reset their walls. I can't do everything in the gyms but I would have long exhausted what routes I can send by then.

Am I looking at this wrong?

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>attempting a route
>guy I know who is far more experienced than me is there trying one that is close by
>fail a particular move repeatedly because I am struggling to reach a hold above me and holding on to it after
>"damn, I'm not strong enough"
>"no, you're just not good enough"

>>247842
i alternate between 2 gyms once a week and theres still days where i cant climb many new things. i feel like its only worth it if theres a single subscription and they got different locations you can use multiple times a week

>can do pull ups on bar
>can do pull ups on rings
>can do pull ups on reasonably sized edges
>cant do a single fucking pull up once I'm supposed to hold/grab that hold instead of hang from it
I feel like complete retard. It's like my hands just say no.
Do I need to train my wrists or something?

>>247843
Climbers are usually retards when it comes to expressing what is, buried under the surface, genuinely good advice. You are almost certainly strong enough, but you probably lack technical refinement or beta to get to the top, hence you literally are not good enough, but your efforts are better spent towards improving beta.

Is there a drop knee? Is there a back flag? Is there a way to increase your stability on the wall? Look for people your height who CAN send it.

Note - Even if you manage to hold on afterwards, it might not be your strength, but how you're pulling it, how stable you are when you pull it, etc.

You're going to get stronger just by climbing, but technique is something you have to consciously assess nonstop until it becomes a habit. So yeah, you're not good enough. Get good. You can do it.

>>247857

Yeah for sure, his advice was ultimately good. I said "ha, that hurts to hear a lot more than hearing I'm not strong enough" and he said "yeah, but you can get more skilled a lot faster than you can get stronger" and gave me some beta.

It's just intimidating climbing at my gym because there are many literal world-class athletes climbing there. I wanna be good and to be totally honest with myself I want to impress them. I just think they're so cool and I've really fallen in love with this sport. I've been thinking of coming 4 times a week. When I do climb, I usually spend 5+ hours there, taking breaks to eat and then going back.

>>247864
>It's just intimidating climbing at my gym because there are many literal world-class athletes climbing there. I wanna be good and to be totally honest with myself I want to impress them.
I can relate. I climb at a gym where lots of the youth compete at nationals, and where V10 climbers and above frequent alot. We don't have pros, but we have up and comers, so I completely see where you're coming from.

But don't let good advice hurt you, please take it from me. It took me a long ass time to have a positive mentality when it comes to this stuff, and beating yourself up or letting yourself get hurt over perceived "inefficiencies" or "flaws" is going to do far more damage than anything. (Also, side note, aim to improve yourself for your own sake, not to impress others. They'll be impressed when you're at their level, or finding beta they can't do)

Being able to train with some skilled as guys sounds hella fun, good for you. Also, spending 5+ hours a day lots of days will make you really good, really fast. Listen to your body and if stuff hurts, lower volume, but other than that just enjoy it.

I'd be psyched to hear how you're progressing man, keep posting updates every now and then.

>>247869

Thanks man, that is really kind and motivating. I appreciate you saying that. I am 29 and I just wish I had started earlier. I'm a bit of a defeatist and insecure in general and the thing is that most of what you do in climbing is fail, so it's been really good for me mentally. I had to get over the fact that I was failing so much and come to terms with the fact that it is inevitable. It's reshaped my relationship with failure and made me have more perserverance.

Still, it's intimidating when there are so many literal olympic athletes training all around me. I just wanna be good! It feels so strange to be here

>>247870
get a job

>>247877

I do, but your job doesn't necessarily give you fulfilment or a sense of purpose. It turns out I really like sports but didn't realize until I was older

What V grade do I have to be able to climb before I can call myself a climber and not have intense imposter syndrome?

>permabeg guy at gym proud of how he sized up his new shoes from street size
Tight shoe FUD is so bad that we have people wasting money on clown shoes to avoid looking try hard or whatever

>>247887

I think at 5 or 6 you are a "true" climber. You've gotten past the noob gain phase of V3 to V4 where climbing gets genuinely somewhat technical, then from that to V5 where it begins to get difficult and are now doing the level above THAT and therefore have probably been climbing for a minimum of 1.5 years

>>247887
Whatever my max grade currently is

Any recommendations for online resolers to send my shoes in to? In northern California but no local resolers. Just bought a new pair but I want to use these old ones for outdoors.

>>247887
>What V grade do I have to be able to climb before I can call myself a climber and not have intense imposter syndrome?
V-not being a pussy. If you enjoy it and climb alot, that's it.
>>247889
That's cap. I've met so many chill people who're like 6 months into it and crushing outdoor climbs on the daily just because they fell in love with it. I'd consider them as more "true" of a climber than the gymrat who goes with his colleagues for a weekend outing.

If you love climbing and do it alot, you're a climber, that's it, why gatekeep this shit, it's already retarded enough that we have braincels screaming that they can't do V10 in 2 years. God it's like all people want to do is shit on others. Get along right now you fuckers.
>>247877
Kill yourself for posting that here.

>>247930

I agree that if you enjoy climbing and do it you're a climber. It's not like there's a hard, objective line. Having said that, I'd say that the average person who DOES love climbing and take it seriously is probably at the V5 level(ish). Anyone who climbs like twice a week and is healthy and is making a conscientious effort to climb is probably gonna be at that level after 2 or 3 years max

>outdoor climbs on the daily

man, climbing every single day - even if you skip weekends - is fucking intense. I'd say anyone doing that is on their way to being semi-pro if they do it long enough and take it serious

>>247931
>mfw my first V5 kilterboard send
G-guys... am I in the club now?
>Total time spent climbing-3 years. Top route indoors: V6 (soft), like 8 V5s.
Outdoors: V2 (This was in my first year, haven't bouldered since), Top Rope: 5.11a (best on-sight was a 5.10a at a really sandbagged place)

>>247932
>>mfw my first V5 kilterboard send
>G-guys... am I in the club now?
What angle? Tbqh anything <45° is worthless and even 50° is still soft-ish
I'm nowhere close to a 7A climber but did multiple at 50° and flashed a 7A+ at 45°

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rVj-WQDgrc

>>247921
Rubber room in bishop you nigger

Obviously everyone is different, but at what kind of stages is an average person expected to be at depending on time spent climbing? like, what V grade would you be reasonably expected to be at after a year? I reckon a year is probably enough for most people climbing casually to get to at least a V3, probably 4.

>>247938
>Nowhere near a 7a climber
>Flashes 7a
Uh. This is why I hate grading arguments... Yesterday I was in a gym and there was a v6 that nobody could do except for this super flexible girl who nailed the beta, yet she couldn't even do a V4. Grades. Are. Bullshit.
>>247968
It realllllly depends, because as I discovered myself, how much climbing one does in a year varies from person to person. I used to think climbing 3 days a week was enough, but my average sessions were like 1.5 hours. Most of my friends also go only 3-4 days a week, but their sessions are 3 hours. So in the same year, they got at least double the volume I did, double the time on the wall, double the attemtps. The end result was that they're flashing my V6 projects. But hey, I changed up my game, and have been focusing on increasing climbing volume since September. It's mid-November now, and my plateau finally broke. Stronger fingers then ever, getting projects at a much faster rate. This is what people mean by "just climb".

In any case, grades are subjective, vary by gym, and people progress at a different rate. Even the average person will have completely different outcomes depending on what gyms they have nearby and how close they are to a crag. The average person at my gym usually gets to V4 flash in a year, but the average person at the gyms in my old city would probably take much longer to get there. Also, an outdoor 3 in a year would be above average imo.

>>247971

Totally agree. I used to work out before I injured myself (was never in good shape imo though) so I had some muscle foundation. After about 5 months of climbing I'm at around V4, but when I climb I climb the WHOLE day. I'll get there at 1pm and climb till 6 or 7pm, taking breaks to eat.

My 20mmax hang hasn't gone up in like 7 months
Just can't break +40kg

My 14mm threatens to go up, but I can't help but think I just don't have very strong fingers genetically

>>247980
You re-posted it. I posted:
>>245877
To which you replied:
>>245878
>I'm not a brainlet.
you're literally retarded. You were given good advice, you chose to ignore it because of your pride. There are certainly patterns behind your training routine, patterns that you can't uncover because you
>Don't wanna
So enjoy the plateau and the false belief that
>Muh genetics
Are the problem. Have a good night, loser.

>>247971
>>Flashes 7a
That was never ever a 7A but I agree that grades are completely subjective but setting a e.g. 6B and calling it 7A is bullshit

This literal GRANDMA is climbing 8A. We have no excuse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpAJEENfEjg

>>248102
Redditers will say "genetics"

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i did my first outdoor v6 today

Thinking of getting La Sportiva Katanas. A good upgrade for my Boreal Zenith shoes. They feel a little too soft and kinda slippy, but it could be cuz I'm only a V4 climber.

Also, how the fuck is V4 considered "early intermediate"? It's challenging, but not THAT hard. I've been climbing like 5 months and it's where I'm currently at and I definitely don't consider myself an intermediate. I can barely ever do a V5 - I've probably done about 4 or 5 ever. I'm far too fat right now and weak to go harder.

>>248159
Chad.
>>248167
Typical american gymrat

>>248177

I'm european I just got fat because I suffered a bad injury last year and my arm was paralyzed

>>248167
>V4 is easy!

Try going outside, indoor v4-5 = outdoor v0-1 (not joking)

>>248159
congrats anon I am impressed

>>248206

Oh yeah ofc, I'm talking about indoor bouldering for context

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>trying a route I'm struggling with
>olympic athletes guys come round and smash the boulder like it's nothing as part of their warm up
>disheartened, try again using the technique they used to get past the part I couldn't complete
>about to fall off
>"Come on, come on"
>they're staring at me
>fuck I can't fall now
>complete it
>they say "nice" and fist bump me

I was so nervous about fucking it up in front of them. It's too much fucking pressure training around the top 1% of athletes in the world. Imagine going to the gym to lift weights and a mr olympia competitor is just sat there watching you bench

The owner of my climbing gym offered to buy me climbing shoes at trade price cuz I helped clean the gym : )

I'm trying to get some shoes online but I'm not sure what size to get. Last time I got my regular street size and they turned out to be too big after they had time to stretch. Should I go one size smaller this time?

>>248231
>I'm trying to get some shoes online but I'm not sure what size to get. Last time I got my regular street size and they turned out to be too big after they had time to stretch. Should I go one size smaller this time?

Rock+Run has a shoe sizing guide for a whole bunch of shoes. Not sure how accurate it is but at least it should be internally consistent.

>>248231
Depends on the material of the upper and the brand. Leather uppers stretch a lot synthetic uppers don't stretch at all. For example, La Sportivas with a leather upper can stretch even 3 sizes.
In my experience, with a leather upper I would downsize 1 size for comfy shoes and 2-3 sizes for tight fit. For synthetic I would not downsize at all for comfy shoes and downsize 1 and 1.5 sizes for tight fit.

>>248243
>>248240

My only worry is that the Katanas are more designed for outdoor bouldering vs indoor (all I do) but my friend who is a coach told me lots of people use them indoors too. I just got boreal zeniths that were too big and not aggressive enough so I'm looking for something a little more intense and tighter, so if you got any suggestions in the up to 150 range please let me know.

>>248243
>>248240

was maybe thinking dragos or instinct vsr

>>248251
For indoor bouldering try LS skwama or solutions. Katanas have a very stiff sole/edge and are typically used where those features are needed (outdoors on very small edges).

>>248252
Are you new? You sound new. If you're new then Dragos are probably not for you. The instincts vs/vsr will probably be more appropriate. Or vapor v.

But honestly it's hard to make recommendations for climbing shoes. You have to know what you want. As for sizes I think the guide is your best bet if you have to buy online.