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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 1687491312880141.png (193 KB, 1137x860)
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I have a blued steel screw that I cannot source a replacement for that the first 2/3's of was stripped, the application is relatively low torque and isn't anything crucial, but it only barely engages and if you try to tighten it, it just disengages from the threads without causing damage.
I dont' have a lathe to attempt to make a new screw, and it is not so simple to just be able to make it out some bar stock that's the correct OD and peaning a head to it or something janky like that.
It could be welded, but it would still present the issue of the new material being very hard to machine without a lathe and tap. Brazing obviously would be more favorable to machine, but I do not have oxy to melt brass. Would it be viable to attempt to use a propane torch and use solder to build up the threads in order to retap them?
Threadlocker, copper wire or teflon tape wouldn't be an appropriate fix due to it being need to be removable.
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>>2791271
Silver solder might work and if not you can melt it off to preserve the sample. Post a clear photo and what size and thread pitch the screw is.
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>>2791271
> no picture of said screw
> no OD or tpi or any dimension whatsoever
> no picture of hole or whatever it screws into
> no requirements in terms of torque
> hey diy can I use [absolutely weird method] for [thing i cannot describe] pls halp
> not using sqt
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>>2791276
It's a fillister head with 1 inch of smooth shaft that at the end has perhaps 5/16ths of fine threading at the end, 2/3's of which is stripped. It is probably 3/16/ or 5/32's shaft thickness, and presumably metric. It's not readily accessible so I can't keep pulling it out. It's effectively just a threaded pin to keep a non crucial item from walking off, not to exert a clamping load.
So the details aside from it being a small coarse or fine thread are not particularly relevant since it's not like it would work if it was a m5 but fail if it was a 10-32 or vise versa.
>>2791278
seethe
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>>2791295
>seethe
He was only trying to help you become a better netizen anon.
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So yeah, solder might be one method, if you can get it to stick.
Personally I’d zinc electroplate it. Something you can do at home easily enough.
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>>2791295
Any reason you can't drill and tap for the next common size up?
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>>2791350
Technically feasible but I don't want to modify the other parts and I would still need the screw to have similar features. Threads are bad enough can't take a gauge to them to actually see what pitch it is and the taps didn't seem to agree with the threads, so it's' probably some odd metric thread.
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>>2791271
Thread files are a thing but you still the problem of strength and getting more material on there
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>>2791368
K, that’s more thread gore than I was expecting. Zinc plating won’t do it.

Easier to fabricate a whole new screw out of a nail.
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>>2791397
I tried peening the threads with an auto punch but obviously that didn't bring them up enough.
I said fuck it and tried to tap the other part with the metric tap that seemed closest in size, initially it seemed smooth, but it did end up taking out some chips. After fully tapping it, it really didn't look like it was cross threaded or that it was the wrong pitch like what might happen if you accidentally tap with two different pitches or a metric and a SAE. I suppose the screw could've damaged it somehow or maybe left some of the stripped material in the threads. It's a through hole, so I threaded the screw in from the other side since it it's not crossing a gap, and perhaps it might be a hair loose, it felt about the same as it did prior to taping, so I'm just going to operate off it being a m4x.7. I really can't see how the original screw could've been damaged like that given the condition of both the head, and the part it was threaded into wouldn't indicate being gorilla nigger retarded like that.
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>>2791271
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>>2791271
I had a similar problem on a bike once. Ended up putting metal epoxy (premade stuff that's basically metal powder in epoxy resin) into the female threads, then greasing and "screwing" the stripped screw into it. Left it to harden, unscrewed it and the thread was pretty much fixed.
That was on a rearviewmirror though. Not sure how well this method would hold up to actual loads.



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