I want to build a shelf. I just need it to support a toaster oven on one level and on the other a microwave 1.1cu. I want both to be around 4FT so waist and lower chest. Maybe have like a pantry for the lower levels.Would like to know what is the best wood to use without spending to much and what kind of design would you go with? Also what is the best method for securing the shelves? Using an L bracket or just drilling threw the wood? I want to spend maybe around $50-70. Not including hardware.
Similar to what you posted, but I would put 1x2s under the shelves on the side so you can screw both the shelves and sides to them. Also predrill so you don't split the 1x2s
>>2824695What kind of wood is this? And how much would this cost? So no bracket at each level for support? no pegs or anything like that?
>>2824691Definitely $500 1st grade play sword wood.You can use scrap wood from pallets. Use good quality deck screws. Wish you could buy a 5lb assortment box. From 3/4" up to 4". All T-25 so you don't have to change bits. I'd tell you to buy one of those.5lb, screw companies. Not 1lb. Yes you can offer 1lb but must offer 5lb. Better value. Point is, you'd have plenty of screws left over in every size, for future projects, and definitely enough to finish this one, with 1 box. Good starter box.
>>2824705The 1x2s will act as brackets
>>2824691There is no best method but:Dado joint - hella strong but you need a router or dado bladeScrewing from sides - Pretty ugly and structurally kinda weekL brackets - Strong but you’ll see themDowels - Pretty good, not super strong, invisible, need to drill accuratelyNailing from sides - Very meh for bigger loadsPocket screws - Strong and invisible but you need a kreg jigDiagonal screws / ‘toe nails’ - Hella ugly and may splitGlueing and screwing 1x1s in the corners - Strong, easy, but takes up spaceYou can get away with 3/4” sheet/boards. If you’re making it barely wider than the appliances then there’s no need for more as the load is on the outsides so it won’t sag much. If it sags it’s more efficient to add edging strip like in your pic (the rear horizontal boards). The added benefit is that you can screw them to the wall without brackets
>>2824691Got any other cabinets you wanna match? Species could be birch, oak, maple, hickory, pine. Or you could use plywood.
>>2824691I just did picrel for the bathroom. Was just cheap 1x2’s, 1x3’s, 1x4’s. Used 1/4” dowels and wood glue to hold most of it together, and then pocket screws for the shelves because I wanted to make sure they lined up straight.I’ve done pretty much all of my little projects with regular cheap lumber. It looks good enough after stain and finish and a lot of sanding. Try to pick out straight boards to start with. That premium oak is tempting but costs like 10x as much.
>>2824691Clarify a few things for me, please:1. What kind of tools do you have available?2. What are your design considerations?3. What is the wall material at the spot the shelf intended to be?4. Do you intend to run cables powering your appliances wild? Is there a plan how will you conceal these cables.L brackets will give you better support, yet they are usually ugly. Look up French cleat - that is how you want to secure your shelf. Build-wise: massively depends on the tools and materials you have.
