Can I remove this without unsoldering or cutting any pipes? It looks like I might have to cut the top pipe.
>>2828607Here's another pic
It's literally just got 4 threaded connections...
>>2828610Well, top and bottom are unrotateable without rotating entire pipe. I was able to unfasten the left and right, but now I need to find out how to cap these off. The left and right are hot and cold water pipes. I need to seal them off so I can turn main water back on.Do caps exist for something like this? Or do I need to also unscrew this fastener?
>>2828626Is there really no way to seal a water pipe like this without soldering or am I just bad at searching? Something like a threaded pipe cap?
>>2828637You can just use PVC caps. They're like $1 at Lowe's
>>2828637they do exist, at least over here: https://www.toolstation.nl/bpe-gasdraadfitting-dopsok/p37591It's a cap withva rubber disc inside
>>2828607It was built, in place. Getting it out, without desoldering or cutting, is gonna be a terminal bitch. Yes, caps are available and I would go for those and just leave it there.
>>2828607>>2828637just cut off everything and use sharkbite caps to cap it offwhat is your end goal? are you trying to diy renovate your bathroom? you're going to need to redo the pipes anyways if you are
>>2828680Jusr need to seal it for now.>>2828638Got some. Teflon tape?
>>2828709I put teflon tape on everything, not like it’s going to hurt anything. As a general rule, you’re fine to put male pvc fittings into female metal threads… but the other way around is a no-no. Since you said it’s just temporary i don’t think it’s a big deal, but if “temporary” means like a few months, I would do what other anon said and get some sharkbite caps.
>>2828709Oh, let me add, I put the right amount of teflon tape on everything. I see people overdo the tape pretty often and it prevents the cap or fitting or whatever from sealing as it was designed… always ends in tears
>>2828740>get some sharkbite capsDon't the o-rings fail after a decade?
>>2828637Yes. Technically, that needs a 1/2" cap. Get it in brass. Use some tape and or dope on the threads, tighten the cap on.>>2828638NEVER put plastic over metal. That 'PVC cap' will be schedule 40 and it will crack. You can kinda sorta get away with it if you are zen, by using a schedule 80, which is thicker.No one, not even someone with a torque sensor in their zenmaster hand, should try to put a common PVC cap on metal. = floods.>>2828740A threaded end in copper alloy needs a copper / brass female threaded cap with tape/dope. Sharkbite is a brand, they make everything, including PEX T's etc. But we all know of them because of their press-on fittings with the O-Rings and teeth. No reason to use one of those, unless he cut the end of the pipe (they make Sharkbite caps for that). In which case, he needs to use some sanding cloth from the plumbing section, and clean the outside end of the pipe, to remove burrs without scratching it up. It doesn't need to be reamed, because there will be no flow through it, although that's good practice.Beware of dead-head water. That's where you cap off a destination, as OP proposes, instead of going back to its source, where it T's off the supply, and shutting it off there. There should be a valve, and if not, use one of those Sharkbite caps, and cap it back there, not here. If this is a temporary thing for a week, ok. If not, you should not leave uncirculated water in your plumbing system.
>>2828871>I assume no one knows anything but me, who isn’t paying attentionThe cap is temporary, he said that like 5 times throughout the thread. There’s no need to get super specific with solutions, you can 100% put a cheap cap on there for a few days, as long as you don’t overcrank it and split the cap, like I warned him about.>sharkbite is yadda yaddaYea, we all know what sharkbites are. I mentioned them because in all likelihood he’s gonna end up cutting the lines when he puts in the new stuff, that’s why a lot of plumbers use a sharkbite in a situation like this. Cut the pipes, clean em, cap em. Then you’ll know they’ll hold if the project sits for a few months and when you’re ready to finish it you can just slide them off and have nice clean ends to work with, all ready to go
>>2828752I've got some I put in 15 years ago, no problems yet. If they fail I'll put in another one, even if they're $15 that's easily $150 cheaper than a plumber.That said, don't put them where you can't get to them, like in a wall.
>>2828871Useful info, thanks.
>>2828607Cut the pipes and reconnect with pex like a real plumber
>>2828894I didn’t know most of what he said. I thought it was helpful and I learned a lot.
>>2828894> Describes himself, fails to see: typical ego-controlled/possessed NPC.https://youtu.be/gg8JYYyWSPg>>2828912Right-o.>>2829225You're welcome, dude.Plastic pressure female fittings threaded over metal are never OK. Just drill that into your brain as a maxim of plumbing. Maybe you're good at Vegas odds and like to gamble against the House. But, in all practicality, that could break within 24 hrs or hold for weeks: who knows. I know if it was my house, it's totally verboten. I'm not cleaning up a flood and flood damage, because an anon said it was OK.You always want plastic inside metal. If we look at PEX couplings that are brass, and PEX-B (non-Uponor, not PEX-A, not the expansion-type), then the copper ring or stainless steel band you put around the outside of the PEX pipe is still metal-over-plastic.PEX-A is a different formulation, requires a dedicated expansion tool. It's one of the rare exceptions when plastic can go over metal. The connectiny get a collar, to reinforce the grip on the fitting. Somewhat similar to using SCH80 fittings, instead of SCH40.
"The connecting ends get a collar, to reinforce the grip on the fitting." fucking horrible client..
