Threw together a crude door for my cabin I built. It's 5/8 ply nailed to 2x4 boards. I thought once I nailed the plywood it would stiffen everything up but the top and bottom are wobbly. Suggestions on how to reinforce the door?Note there's some mean gaps as well alat the door entrance but I'm going to put fat trim to fill. Door also doesn't completely open and contacts floor but it opens up enough to get in and out the house
>>2828907
1. Your hinges are mounted wrong.2. You put the boards all the same way3. You have no diagonal tension
>>2828907Run a diagonal piece from corner to corner and cut through the chords where you need to and where you cut the chords, run a continuous metal plate to combine the cut chords.Thats how I balloon frame walls and fix other peoples fuck ups. Have never failed code and when I go to rock the wall back and fourth, no movement without sheathing.
>>2828907THose little diagonal braces are doing nothing. Pretty much all of the rigidity is coming from the plywood. I'm guessing it's just not attached to the frame in enough places. I would add another sheet of plywood on the inside to double the amount of bracing on the door, and secure the plywood to the perimeter of the frame with A LOT of screws. Like 6" on center.>>2828913>1. Your hinges are mounted wrong.One some garbage like this the hinges being concealed probably doesn't really matter as long as it works.>3. You have no diagonal tensionNot true, the plywood/sheathing provides a lot of diagonal reinforcement. It's probably just not secured well enough.
>>2828907>Suggestions on how to reinforce the door?1/8" floor underlayment attached securely on inside.
>>2828920OK I didn't see the second pic. That sheet is secured well. Do the same thing on the other side of the door and it should be solid as fuck.
>>2828923Don't listen to this retard, if you dont diagonally brace from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side its gunna sag. run another 2x4 or whatever fuck the dimensions are and cut through those chords. and again, find a metal strapping and nail in so the chord is "continuous"
>>2828925>if you dont diagonally brace from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side its gunna sag.hollow core doors don't have diagonal braces, retard>>2828921makes it a hollow core door
>>2828925You're drastically underestimate the diagonal bracing ability of plywood/sheathing. It's literally what's used to keep most houses from being pushed over by wind. In most cases an adequately secured sheet of plywood is going to provide more bracing than a single diagonal 2x4.
>>2828934>Hollow core dooropinion ignored>>2828937your house doesnt have the same forces as a door hanging on 3 metal hinges.
>>2828940>your house doesnt have the same forces as a door hanging on 3 metal hingesYou are correct, it has more forces on it. If two 3' sections of wall sheathing 20' apart have the diagonal strength required to withstand 50+ mph winds pushing against 400 square feet of wall, it definitely has the strength to hold up 15 pounds of framing against gravity.
>>2828907Your hinges being installed correctly for starters.What are you 'reinforcing' for?For weather, or for a SWAT team?
>>2828907You have enough bracing in the door plane, but it wobbles in the other plane because there isn’t much keeping the boards along the short side from twisting and rotating at their joint. Another sheet on the inside could help, locking the beams in between the sheets. Using screws might help too, to pull the boards flat against the sheets. Or even gluing the sheet to it. The stiffness in that direction in a honeycomb core door comes from that it’s completely filled so it can’t bend easily without compressing or tearing the honeycombs. Google ‘torsion box’ for a diy explanation
>>28289075/8" plywood is pretty thin compared to the 2x4s you are using. I would have used something closer to 3/4" thick. The 5x8" stuff will certainly hold the door together, but it's going to warp like crazy very quickly. I also would have mortised a slot for each of the 2x4s to fit snugly within each other instead of floating next to one another. Lap/half-lap, dado, rabbet and mortise & tenon joints are all applicable to your situation. The easiest solution is to rip another sheet of plywood for the inside, get some cabinet-style screws and pump that plywood full of screws until it's as rigid as can be. The correct solution is to remake the door utilizing some of those joints I mentioned earlier and some thicker plywood on both sides.
>>2828907Please show more pics of your cabin.
>>282902116 x 16', metal roof and using 50/50 pine tar / linseed to protect the wood. Image shows what it looks like vs non coated.Some people use t1-11 ply for walls but I think it's dumb as it's just plywood with lines cut down the middle which both weakens and creates pockets for moisture to give the artificial appearance of board and batten. It's also more expensive. Will be using pine board to seal the gaps between the exterior plywood. And I will likey add another plywood piece to the interior of the door as someonensuggested and screw it in and see how much stiffer it is.
>>2828907you gotta learn some basic wood working and do some lap joints and not lean on the anglesthe diagonals would help with the eventual sag, but seeing as nothing is really joined together, not a reliable solution
>>2828934even comparing a hollow core door to this is a joke. hollow core doors are just expanded cardboard and glue. they have no mass nor components to bend
>>2829107>>2829108maybe drill some holes through the rail at the end of every horizontal and insert some hefty dowels/rods and glue, at least two per end.
>>2829109That's exactly what I was thinking, too.
>>2829067The outside looks a lot better than your door, that's for sure.
>>2828986>5/8" plywood bad>suggests 6/8" (3/4") plywood instead.
