I recently got these. Are the handles meant to come off so easy?
With that socketed type of chisel, I've always known them to have some kind of glue in there.Maybe the handles have dried/shrunk over the years. Or maybe the glue turned brittle and let go.
>>2863155>Are the handles meant to come off so easy?Yes, and most people find them annoying but some hipsters have convinced themselves to prefer it. Just flip them.
>>2863155Use your newly acquired chisels to carve some new handles :^)
>>2863179Yep just need to smother it in araldite and glue it again
electric or fabric tape works well for making things snug, I prefer it for stuff like this over adhesive.
>>2863155wood shrinks, go figureepoxy them to the chisel and call it a day
>>2863279Socketed or tanged chisels work equally well.The former easier to get off the old chisel and a tank one we have to destroy the Chisel handle to do it usually.I had to re handle one of my granddad's chisels with the tapered socket, it was actually relatively easy to get it to fit the Octagon will handle but I kind of messed up a night in meaning to fix that for a few years now or maybe just build a new one as I've got lots of dogwood for it
>>2863712Yellow box wood on the left. Dogwood in middle, Lee Valley Tool boxwood handle with brass ferrule.Boxwood I got on the left came from a pile of it that I harvested from a house that had been demolished but they ripped up all the boxwood and had to take it away. About 25 board feet, including one massive piece that I sold to a plane maker named Holtey in the UK. He gave me a 20% discount on one of his playing Southern normally about 6,000 pounds
>>2863155Don’t glue the handles in. The taper should wedge the handles in when truck, but epod drying over time can cause the handles yo loosen. Supposedly spraying the end on the handle with hair doray will help kerp the handles in, without making the connection permanent, in case you want to remove the handles easily in future for refinishing or whatever. Boiling a pot of water, and dipping the tapered part of the madle in, then letting the handle dry, would likely cause the wood handle end to swell a bit, which would then compress when whacking the handle into the socket, creating a tighter fit as well.
>>2864267Do you feel well?
>>2863155The handles aren't supposed to be attached that way in the first place...Normally, chisels have their handles attached with a tang burned into the handle and a ring to keep the handle from splitting. I've never seen a chisel with a housing like yours before. That's normally how you'd attach a tool that's meant to transfer force sideways (like a shovel), not something that's meant to transfer force straight.
>>2863155Is it seated against the shoulder of the handle when you put it on? It shouldn't be. It should be tight on the taper and will tighten itself in use as you tap on it with your mallet. You shouldn't have to glue. >>2863279It should require many taps on the side of the handle against the bench to remove the handle. Personally I've never removed the handles for sharpening like some advocate, as that seems more work with no real gain IMO. Then again my socket chisels are timber framing chisels, and even without the handle it is a mile long and badly balanced for sharpening, so you just learn to deal with it. >>2864349Many chisels throughout history and the modern age are still socket chisels. A straight axial load is extremely easy for socket or tang to deal with. You have no idea what you are talking about. A morse taper for a lathe tailstock or drill press is just a taper and is meant exclusively for axial load. A spear is meant for axial load, and many if not most in history were socket.
>>2864348> Do you feel well?Sorry, phone posting, typed like shit, didn’t spell check. >>2864349>The handles aren't supposed to be attached that way in the first place...Normally, chisels have their handles attached with a tang burned into the handle and a ring to keep the handle from splitting. I've never seen a chisel with a housing like yours before. That's normally how you'd attach a tool that's meant to transfer force sideways (like a shovel), not something that's meant to transfer force straight.Socket chisels like this are a standard design, that has existed since the Roman Empire or longer. Tang chisel, with a spike wedged into the end of a wood handle have existed since Ancient Egyptian times. Both types are standard and have existed in the same places at the same time. Modern machining methods makes it easier to drill and forge out a , so the chisels started getting made more often after powered efficient machining methods proliferated in the later 1800s. In some countries like Japan, traditional handle design for chisels combines both a tang and socket, with the socket made separately, and mounted on the end of the wood handle, and the tang hammered into the center of the handle. Western chisels, in the 1800s and earlier, routinely relied on handle woods with interlocking grain, like hornbeam, which did not split easily once dried, negating the need for a hoop or socket around the blade end of a chisel handle. Also, older western chisels were usually wrought iron with a hard steel piece forge welded onto the iron for a cutting edge and back. Wrought iron is more likely to bend before the wood handle splits. After chisels started being made from a single piece of steel, hoops around the blade end of chisels became common. The socket type of chisel is standard for timber framing and mortising, and was a standard in the USA for more than a century.
>>2864267>Don’t glue the handles in.>The taper should wedge the handles in when truck, but epod drying over time can cause the handles yo loosen.>Supposedly spraying the end on the handle with........Or you could just glue the fucking handles.
>>2864863>Or you could just glue the fucking handles.The hole point of the design is that the handle wedges itself into the handle, negating the need for glue. If the handle needs to be replaced, because the handle split from hard use, such as mortising, then the handles can be easily replaced. The same goes if the chisels get left out in the rain, and the handle rots or blades get rusty as hell. A substance that adds a bit of stickiness, can be used, to prevent careless handle loss, such as a tiny bit of malleable mineral wax, or a couple dabs of soft tar, or hairspray. If you insist of epoxying the handle in like a fucking low IQ retard, spray some nitrocellulose lacquer or shellack into the socket first. The lacquer or epoxy can be dissolved with over the counter paint strippers of solvents way easier than epoxy can, allowing the handles to be later removed.
>>2864872Just glue the handles.
>>2863155I've grown to hate tools with any wooden elements. they look cool, but they deform, chip away, rot, break, etc. very quickly. I don't think I've seen a wooden hammer survive for longer than a few years or even months and even shitty chink hammers with a fiberglass handle seem to last forever
>>2865117except with only the most minimal maintenance wood handles will be and are in use centuries later while your plastic handle assuming it hasn't decomposed has been molested by gay plasticj homosexuals for the same period of time.
>>2864349>That's normally how you'd attach a tool that's meant to transfer force sideways (like a shovel), not something that's meant to transfer force straight.Wood chisels in normal, perfectly acceptable operations and techniques are used in ways that direct loads sideways all the time...probably the most common area would be chiseling out deep mortise pockets and prying chips up and out (like a shovel), sometimes using the shoulder of the hole as a fulcrum. If you look at high quality large mortise chisels, that kind of mount is pretty common for that reason...its also not unusual to use a sharp chisel and an almost vertical approach to scrape sideways and flatten out the bottoms of holes, that's like doing the same thing with a shovel or a hoe.Woodturning skews are another kind of chisel that does almost all of its cutting in that same manner to shave off and cut grooves and such. They generally don't use that socket mount but they don't need to; the serious force on a lathe is developed by the tool and concentrated between the work and the fulcrum of the tool rest. All the handle needs to do is let you control the feed rate to minimize the loads...it's not used to drive the cutting edge.Socket mounts are usually seen on chisels that get beaten into wood and used to pry out big chunks of waste material, and/or to work with the cutting edge way down in a hole with restricted approach angles.
>>2865148Just to clarify...when I said "tool" in the following I meant the lathe supplies the force and not the operator->the serious force on a lathe is developed by the tool but in this part the "tool" in "tool rest" is the skew chisel.>...and concentrated between the work and the fulcrum of the tool rest.
>>2865125>in use centuries laterWhy do I care about disposable tools outlasting me? Handles are easy to make if one must.
>>2863279kek cant argue against that, spot on
>>2865925I have two chills like that with the black or blue plastic handles. They hold an edge decently but I don't use them for fine working
