Why are 7-1/4 circular saws the standard outside of framing? I know they’re the smallest that can make miter cuts in 2x, but it seems like the times non-framers are going to need to do that you’d use an actual miter saw instead? Meanwhile as small as a 4-1/2” makes a 0/90 degree cut through 2x no problem and is way more portable. What’s the use case everyone has that demands 6.5/7.25” saws? It’s a lot of extra size, especially for the kind of average home gainer use all the cheapo saws out there are for.Wondering this acutely because I want to kit a small saw out with a nail embedded wood blade and… it seems like those don’t come smaller than 6.5”.
>>2864563so buy a 5-3/8 steel cutting blade. negative rake blades are ass for wood though. the little cordless saws dont have the nuts to bulldoze with them
>>2864563Skil wormgear saw or it isn't even worth owning... I do have an old black and decker worm drive saw as well and it is an odd sized blade like 6" or 6.5" you didn't say specifically in your post. Are you looking for corded or cordless?
>>2864619I got a makita worm... well hypoid drive that has a brake, never seen that with the modern stuff. old brakes really were quick.
>>2864619I think I have 3 skil worm drive saws and the black and decker. Two of the skils I bought at auctions for like $15 a piece and went through them and got them back in good shape again. One of them I've abused the shit out of with concrete blades putting saw cuts in slabs, and used with a ferrous blade for cutting steel and it still gets a wood blade thrown on it for ripping shitty old plywood and other wood once in awhile. One is at my folks shop and I use it there if I'm working on something for them, and then I have a brand new magnesium skil at my house that is babied. Pic rel is the ol B&D. It was the first worm drive saw I ever got. It ended up eating the gear after using it for a while, so I went ahead and ponied up for the parts and rebuilt it because it really is a pretty good saw. Hasn't seen much use since I got the others though.
>>2864619Modern high-end cordless saws are more powerful.
>>28645637 ¼" saws strike a fair balance, having more inertia to carry through harder materials. They also allow higher blade speed at the same angular velocity thus improving on cut speed and precision. Smaller saws have to spin at fuck you speeds and kickbacks are hard to control because of the insane torque that the small radius causes.
>>2864619I have a Skil Mag77 actually, it’s powerful but totally unnecessarily big and heavy if I just want to cut down a bunch of 2x. At the same time it’s too small to do anything 4x in one pass and I have to go to the miter saw for that. Like I was saying in the OP, it just seems a weird inbetween size for everything but what it was made for (framing) and I’m looking at getting a compact saw to actually use and not get annoyed. Cordless because why not? I have a few models in mind but was mostly wondering, the only buying advice I’m looking for or mentioned is nail embedded wood blades smaller than 6-1/2.>>2864812This is an answer, how much harder to control are these small ones?>>2864592How are steel blades on wood, or are they the negative rake blades you’re talking about?
>>2865311>>how much harder to control are these small ones?It's far more likely jump out run the run onto of the material
>>2864812This pretty much. When you get to the smaller saws, it becomes like an angle grinder. With larger blades, you can get a higher speed at the teeth with lower RPMs and you have the momentum of the blade spinning to chew through that wood.I have the babby 5-3/8” Ryobi. It’s ok but not super versatile. Even if you’re mostly doing trim or plywood, it’s nice to be able to make a 90deg cut in 2x material since it’s so damn common. I’m a big fan of the new 6-1/2” brushless orange guy I got, tech has come a long way on the cordless circ saws. The cutting depth on that one is about the same as my old Craftsman 7-1/4”, and the magnesium shoe and little brushless motor with some power make the thing nice to use.
>>2864563Miter cuts are your biggest concern? Try tracking pencil marks, following curves, preventing tear-out of thin veneers and hard laminate or melamine, plunge cuts, compound cuts, long rips. >not get annoyedThe only acceptable battery saws for this are the 40v. Regular dewalts drop a battery partway into any cut I need to get done. The mag77 is the real deal. Run a 4 inch saw battery saw for a few days and see if you don't go back.
>>2865730>The mag77 is the real deal. Run a 4 inch saw battery saw for a few days and see if you don't go back.https://youtu.be/q5_x_h4EG-w?t=399
>>2864563If I saw someone using the saw in this picture, especially with the two hand grip, I would have no choice but to clown on them so hard they would either want to fight or start crying. Stop being a faggot, corded 7 1/4" worm drive saws are the only circular saw that matters and everything else is for faggots with limp wrists (looking at you, cordless saw fags)
>>2866044That guy is a shill, he doesn’t tell you the dewilt will only run for 10 minutes, under load, on a charge. And 7 minutes after a few days of use (I need around 10 quick charge cycles an ordinary day). Like if you’re sheathing a house or something, you can’t fucking work.A home hobbyist like this guy that’s cutting a stud once a year would get better milage with a handsaw.That guy’s time calculation is bullshit if you include all the time charging, looking for, and futzing with the battery, and if you include the time at the HD return desk with that old russian chick that barely speaks english, the time comparison is laughable.Also i work in the winter. The saw doesn’t. In fact if I accidentally leave the battery outside or in my truck, it’s gone. It’s like having to care for a few extra children on-site. If I accidentally leave one in the charger, on site, there’s a 50% chance it will be stolen.Oh, and of course, I can get a brand new, ultra sharp, thin kerf, small diameter, teflon coated blade for my mag, too… and my mag will destroy the dewalt in an apples to apples test.Stop watching shill videos and start thinking critically.
>>2866044>Believing anything that faggot wranglerstar has to say...Whew lad! ISHYDDT...
>>2868319>and my mag will destroy the dewalt in an apples to apples test.Then post it or find a video of that. A 15A-120V circuit simply can't deliver the power of modern batteries.
we just tried the new red 7 1/4" with the 12ah forge battery. holy fuck.
>>2868488> post a videoIt’s been debunked to death already, crawl back under your rock.New brushless makita with two batteries vs. His dad’s old corded. Picrel is results of the total output watts.Also just as heavy, almost as loud, etc.Old corded has infinite runtime. New hasabout 10 minutes.
>>2868508still gonna stick with my corded makita though.
>>2868508I don’t doubt that something like that has as much power as a corded. For 10 minutes, anyway.Although they’ve been shilling all previous generations as being more powerful (as numbnuts indicated) for the last 10 years, and 99.99999% won’t be in possession of such a saw in the foreseeable future. More people have cybertrucks for christs sakes.
>>2868517yeah I don't see myself or any of the guys I was with testing that saw changing to something else. it's nice though, really fast and kept that speed up consistently through anything and everything, but the kit's like $500, and that battery is heavy and expensive af. my corded makita and skil work more or less like they did a decade ago and never leave me hanging for a battery change.
>>2868510>no referencesYou understand that that which is presented without evidence can be dismissed without evidence, right?But it seems I found your reference. And lookie here:https://youtu.be/2Cjf0beYXfU?t=368>25A equivalent power
>>2868524> Thinks 4chan is a scientific journal, needs google lessons> 25 AThat’s not even what power is. You misunderstood everything and don’t know where you are.
>>2868617>> Thinks 4chan is a scientific journal>burden of proofThe logic of argumentation works the same way everywhere.>needs google lessonsI'm the only person in this thread who has substantiated his arguments. with evidence. You sure that isn't projection?>That’s not even what power is.If you look at the video (https://youtu.be/2Cjf0beYXfU?t=632) at 10:32, you'll see a chart with a column labeled "Calculated Comparable Power" This compares the power output of the various cordless saws tested to the corded Makita in your image here >>2868510. So, if a saw has a measured output of about 890W, it is given a 15A comparable power rating, since it's comparable to the 15A corded saw. The DeWalt 60V saw has a measured power output of 1540W, which is 73% more than the 15A corded saw. This would be comparable to the power output of a 26A corded saw of equal efficiency as the Makita tested. (it's rounded to 25A for the chart).So, my statement here >>2864653 is correct, for the reason I gave here >>2868488. Your denial of this is not just wrong but indefensible at this point..
>>2866044An American using a tool with the guard still on? What's the world coming to.
>>2868646The a new dewalt with batteries is less than $150?And of the same age?Obviously, with enough batteries and enough money you could make a ridiculous enough saw that could easily beat any ordinary corded, like the MX FUEL™ REDLITHIUM™ FORGE™ XC8.0 batteries. Hell, one day they might be able to make a car that runs on batteries!By the way, batteries haven’t gotten much better, the cybertruck doesn’t have a single really-good single 18650 sitting in there, they need a few cells to power a car.When you see cordless saws with the same power as my corded 6.5 HP shop vac (4800 watts) let us know.(the point here, is they could make an arbitrarily powerful corded saw, but it’s unnecessary)Also let us know if your dewalt saw can run, under load, for 10 or 20 hours straight on a single charge. That might be worth something. Until then it’s a homeowner toy. Shill harder. and elsewhere.
Besides the various factors related to power already mentioned, with circular saws the geometry of the cut can matter a lot for efficiency, control, heat retention, incidence and type of saw marks, etc.The larger the blade diameter, the straighter/ more vertical and shorter the arc of the blade section doing the cutting can be.
>>2868694> arbitrarily powerful>>2868705> the larger the blade diameterI got chu bros…
>>2868694None of that is relevant to the point of discussion.>you could make a ridiculous enough saw that could easily beat any ordinary cordedAnd saws like that have been on the market for years, readily available at hardware stores, in contrast to your statement here >>2868319.>my mag will destroy the dewalt in an apples to apples test.It's generally not a big deal to be wrong about an item of trivia, particularly some development in an area you haven't kept up with. But getting emotionally invested and doubling down when corrected leads to a lot of problems when people do that in other parts of life.>When you see cordless saws with the same power as my corded 6.5 HP shop vac (4800 watts) let us know.They already do. That power rating is the inrush current as the motor starts spinning. If you hooked it up to a dynamometer, you'd find a few hundred Watts of output power. Shop Vac claims 12A current draw and 335 Watts output for a similar vacuum. You might have been clued into this by being able to run the vacuum on a 15A circuit without tripping the breaker. The far more powerful motors on those saws have large starting currents too, but since that's not a meaningful performance metric, it's not advertised. Shop vacs are somewhat unique in that regard.>run, under load, for 10 or 20 hours straight on a single charge. That might be worth something. Until then it’s a homeowner toy.Is that how you think professional framers use their circular saws?>>2868717>SKIL SPT70V-11>15A motor, same as the MAG-77That has a lot of torque, but it's a lot less powerful than the high-end cordless saws shown above.
>>2868854> less powerfulguess we should get the cordless vers… oh wait… they don’t seem to make one. I wonder why?i think the reason is perhaps because they can’t since cordless technology isn’t up to it yet, and actual pros don’t use cordless in those situations and would laugh at such a proposal.> but in my land everyone drives on-site in cybertrucks, which are more powerful that ford f150s.
>>2868905Skil does make a ridiculous cordless wormdrive that has a unique, gigantic battery.
>>2868694>4800W from the 1800W rated outletI wish I was big brained like you
>>2868926For a short time, you certainly can.You can easily pull 50 A from an outlet when you start up a big induction motor. You can see the lights dim for a moment.Not continuously, however. The breaker will eventually trip.That little wiener that’s testing those things should do a tear down and see how beefy the wires are and what temperature the insulation is rated for.Wire can carry more amps if the insulation is 105 deg C rated (or kept cool by a fan, obviously).Some of the high-power EV charger cables are actually cooled so they can carry more current.
>>2869067>5 Year WarrantyFace it, cordless tools are topping 120V corded tools in power these days. Add that to the better ergonomics and features and brushless motors of cordless tools compared to the 1980s design of the 120V tools, and you would be dumb to not run cordless most of the time.
>>2868311you shouldn't mess with a guy driving a small car or using a small tool because usually they're big guys
>>2869143> 1980s design80s?? Corded still have designs from the 40s, 50s and 60s. And I’m still running mine.When cordless all have 50 or 100 year warranties on the batteries and tools, I’ll re-consider despite all the other hassles of cordless.To get something minimally acceptable, when cordless power tools become half the price of corded, and when you buy them you automatically get a new battery shipped to your house every two years in perpetuity and no limitations on “registering” your tool (I’m looking at you, ridgid), as in “I show up with the tool anywhere in the world with a sub-80% battery, they hand me a new one”Only then will that partially make up for abysmal run-time performance of cordless. Until then, they just stay in my big bin of dead cordless tools. The strata (ni-cd, and lead-acid on the bottom, li-ion on the top, soon to be covered with na-ion possibly, with even worse lifetimes)
>>2864563Are the harbor freight bauer mini saws any good? Looking to get one for some small house repairs and trim work.
>>2870119You’re not going to be doing any trim work with that, I can assure you. You need a compound mitre saw. It would probably work for fencing 1x and perhaps actually handy for cutting dados though.
>>2864812fuck you weren't wrong just replaced the 4" blade on my diy table saw to 7" and now it's able to rip a inch and a half with ease even in hardwood whereas previously i'd consider myself lucky to be able to rip half an inch into hardwood and it would get stuck again and again i thought it was a motor power issue being only 1/2 hp it also helps that the new blade is ultra thin kerf
