>Seemingly simple tools / accessories that ended up being a game changer for youPic related. Absolutely incredible purchase and wish I had it sooner. It's fantastic when mixing up small bits of filler to repair whatever it is I need to repair. When I'm finished I can just let it cure in the pot. Once cured simply bend the cup and it breaks away for easy clean up.
>>2868559Buy an ad, faggot
>>2868559Well, years ago when I learned I could temporarily magnetize any screwdriver by just rubbing it on any magnet was a bit of a game changer.If you're cutting plywood, you're going to get tear out. One easy way to minimize this is to take painters tape, put it over where you're going to cut, put a lot of pressure on the tape with say, a rolling pin, and no more tear out.
If you don't fart for a really long time on purpose you can save up for a huge farts that are amplified if you're sitting on a walnut slab like a church pew and if you do this enough you can get a divorce
>>2868660
>>2868660kek
>>2868559buy an ad.
did you know thatphobiaracistfascistand naziare shut up words used by people who don't know what they mean but want you to stop saying things they don't like?
>>2868891Ben Shapiro pls. We’re trying to have a conversation about how great magnets on a telescoping stick are. This Kobalt one even has a little flashlight!!!One time I was in a tight spot where a stick wouldn’t fit, so I got a screw out of a headlight assembly with a magnet JB Welded to the end of some wire!These silicone work trays are pretty nice too. Mag dishes don’t always have the best place to sit, or they’re not big enough. These silicone trays are nice to lay across the top of an air intake or battery box when working under the hood. Fwiw, most of these look almost the same just different colors at different stores. The US General ones are more expensive than other options. Walmart has the Hyper Tough ones for cheap, and I got the orange ones from Amazon for $30-$40 IIRC. No sign of getting brittle like cheaper rubber/plastic yet after having them a couple years
And here I was hoping for some nice friendly recommendations...
Got one of these a while back and the adjustable length is actually really nice, never even considered how useful of a feature it'd be. Collapses down to fit in a bag easily and lets you extend the shaft (heh) only as long as you need to for the job so it's more stable than having a long driver all the time, but still can go long when you need to reach into somewhere.
>>2868923>One time I was in a tight spot where a stick wouldn’t fit, so I got a screw out of a headlight assembly with a magnet JB Welded to the end of some wire!My wife bought me a 3 pack of those tite reach fastener starters a while back. I think I've used one so far and it did the trick getting shit into hard to reach places. Not an every day occurrence by any means, but when you need one it's a nice thing to have. Before I had them I have been known to superglue a bolt or nut to my finger and reach up in a spot and start the fastener... then just rip my finger off the bolt/nut.
>>2868964Dammit forgot pic!
>>2868965You get these for car mechanic work and they are a god send for pulleys etc
>>2868936>And here I was hoping for some nice friendly recommendations...go find an actual forum where you have to have an account and everyone has to be nice to everyone else.all people do on diy is ask people to do shit for them, or insult people who actually do diy.
laser level.If we're talking game changing, every other tool bows to it's ultrachad lasercock
>>2868989Picked a cheap one up and regretted it, definitely should have paid a bit more for a 360
>>2868999Yeah that's a good one to buy once cry once on. So damn kino when they're working right though. I need to get a tripod riser or something though, I've been balancing mine on ladders and shimmying to the to right height
>>2868559Plasma cutter. fucking lightsaber on metal.
>>2868989>>2868999>>2869025fuck yeah a good laser level is game changing.you don't necessarily need to 'cry once,' Huepar lasers are cheap as fuck and really really get the job done. I have pic related, the laser is $126 (i guess that's not 'cheap as fuck' but comparatively it is) and the detector (optional, but if you're doing exterior/large scale work you want it) is $57
a massive 3/4 ratchet.So much easier to break rusty bolts loose without having to fear to break the tool.The 1/2 stuff struggles quite often, especially on larger bolts.>All kinds of odd length extentions to get the perfect distance to be able to rotate the ratchet properly. > 72 teeth ratchets when space is tightI usually use a regular ratchet to break it loose when needed but then I change to the one with more teeth.
>>2868660GOOD tip
>>2869428i cannot even keep track of the number of times i have just popped out my laser level to completely trivialize some around-the-house task that would otherwise be a time consuming pain. in this pic, i'm remodeling my bathroom and found out that my planned shower enclosure has zero adjustment for if the wall is out-of-plumb, turns out the framing leans out by three goddamn quarters of an inch. trusty laser used to set a perfectly vertical reference plane 2" off of the floor plate and then establish the required thickness of shimming to bring the whole stud to 2" off the reference plane.
>>2869430I've used a 4' cheater bar on a cheap harbor freight ratchet to break bolts with no issue.
>>2869430Breaker bars are a must for any car work.
>>2869430>So much easier to break rusty bolts loose without having to fear to break the tool.What kind of cheapass ratchets are you buying? I've banged on my old husky with a hammer on many occasions and it still works fine.
>>2869430>>2869449>>2869515The failure point on most ratchets is going to be the square assuming they have properly hard internal parts. So going with the 3/4” ratchet or breaker bar, hopefully you have 3/4” sockets otherwise that 3/4 to 1/2 adapter isn’t going to do any better than the 1/2” drive ratchet
>>2869430We had a huge fuck off 3/4 ratchet and torque wrench at my old shop for doing centerlock nuts on 911 GT2/3s. The things were monsters, note the regular 1/2" one sitting in the seat.
I started buying olfa knives with this little pry tool on the end which sees as much, if not more, action than the blade. I just used it to open a can of paint.Also useful for prying open enclosures, most electrical and panel screws, cutting box sealing tape without slashing open the enclosed contents, helps strip wire after scoring the insulation with knife, etc.
>>2869956Fiskars has some neat utility knives for different trades with features like that. My problem is those little metal fingers for opening boxes or whatever will try to rip a hole in your pocket and poke things. It’s not sharp, but it’s a pointy end on a cutter on the opposite end of the other pointy thing.
>>2869851I scored a couple of those over the years and they work nicely to break large fasteners loose. If I want a shorter handle I use a hunk of pipe. They're commonly used to torque wing tank nuts so old ones and parts turn up near military bases.
>>2868576He's right tho, but if you don't use any or much filler or other two-part chemicals then you don't need one. I do so I do and flexy microwavable popcorn and mixing bowls make sense. There are a variety of makes and shapes so look before buying. I currently use disposable containers whose shape is not as good. "Dental lab" mixing bowls is a useful category to search.Useful cheap shop supplies I buy include bulk popsickle sticks for disposable stirrers, "printer swabs" (solvent-resistant, not furry like cotton swabs and are available in a nice variety of shape and reach), the dirt cheap disposable knives at Harbor Freight, and (less cheap but awesome) Hysol etc "double bubble" epoxy packets. I fell in adhesive love using them for wiring standoffs on F-16s and it's well worth buying yourself a box for bench stock.Most common in USAF was Hardman "Double/Bubble" red = extra-fast setting but they've quite a variety. Loctite also sell it under the same name. The Air Force uses both.
Finally, since no one else is likely to suggest it and it's amazing is polysulfide aircraft fuel tank sealant. I prefer the faster cure "B-1/2" kits. The classic flightline way to mix it is clamp the included plunger by pinching the tube it rides in (after ejaculating the contents, see videos for theory of operation) then manually spinning and plunging until contents are one color.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opWni97muNwhttps://skygeek.com/prc-desoto-ps-870-b-1-2-mil-prf-81733-corrosion-sealant.htmlIt shrugs of diesel, hydraulic juice, petrol, jet fuel, kerosene, oils and much more. Nearly every aircraft since (at least) the 1960s uses polysulfide sealant for wet wing fuel tanks, panel faying sealant, canopy and other transparency sealant and the like. It's sticky so wear disposable gloves and have spares. Blue painters tape or other masking tape recommended where that matters. It makes excellent electrical potting compound, vehicle firewall hole sealant etc too.Every mechanic, millwright, machinist (I sealed a cracked CNC chip tray and other joints exposed to coolant for our college which was tight on parts funding eight years ago and it remains in daily use) etc should buy one to get familiar then a spare for future use. That was ~8 years ago and it's still in daily use).)It works as vehicle fuel tank rust hole patching sealant and is far better than auto store shit. Scuff and degrease the area (cheap toluene carb spray or acetone etc) and the patch, then hold your scab patch in place with whatever works for you. Not cheap but it easily saves more than it costs. I saved my bros leaking John Deere fuel gauge sender and got him back making money the next day vs. ordering a stock part for assrape prices.
>>2868576shut the fuck up, fag
>>2869515>>2869848I had a good one like picrelThat joint broke at some point and all the stuff you can buy now looks weak.The one I had was made in west germany, so from the 80s or even older.Quality tools from Hazett costs a fortune.>inb4 Im a germanfagTo be fair I used a pipe to extend it most of the time.The 3/4 ratchet is much beafier than that.
>>2873551Shoulda ugga’d and dugga’d it instead.Not sure if it still holds true with how HF always goes to the cheapest manufacturer and likely downgraded some stuff with the introduction of Icon, but the Pitt Pro breaker bars used to be one of those tools that really made a trip to Harbor Freight worthwhile. I’ve seen a lot of those things with cheater bars on the end and they were amazing considering the competition all wanted double or triple the money and you could snag the 25” soft handle 1/2” drive for $15 with a coupon. I’ve bounced on mine a handful of times too and it’s still going strong.>>2873552F.
