I've been wiring some connectors and they kinda work some are shit.This is when I try to put 2 wires into 1 connecter.There is no way to join 2 wires into 1 for connecters. I use pliers.Do crimpers really do such a different job on the finish?Next I'll have to buy a wire stripper too..
>>2869479Yes. Try using a vice with a ball bearing to crush the crimp
>>2869479>are crimpers neededobviously not. they only make them as an elaborate shit test to rob suckers that cant think freelysee picel of the extraordinary terminations some sandnigger provided me with on the pins in a $40 deutsch connector in a $600 replacement harness for a $250k piece of equipment that needs to run 24/7. he clearly could perform superior crimps than the factory tool could provide and even discovered the pins had bonus wings for extra super grip because why would they go on the insulation. he clearly had eaten breakfast that morning and couldnt understand why i wanted to retun the ultra quality handiwork
>>2869499Fanuc?
>>2869504cat 972 loader at an asphalt plant. oem was backordered so had to go aftermarket and got garbage. realized it was fucked when it wouldnt even plug in. dipshit used the wrong pins. it was a feeder for a power distribution module that runs 30-40A continuously. wasnt gonna burn the burn the machine down with that bullshit turning into a toaster element
>>2869499More contact area is more better! Also keep strands loose for better airflow!
>>2869479>There is no way to join 2 wires into 1 for connecters.But that's fucking wrong, faggot. You simply use a larger connector to accomadate both wires. I've done this dozens of times, it's not hard at all.
>>2869499Those are all garbage and will fail with 100% certainty.I see an over-crimp and three under-crimps. Green and black are so over-crimped they're mangled and deformed.Black has a piece of green stuck in it.Red is under crimped on the tail and over-crimped around the conductors.White is near perfect on the conductors and hardly done at all at the tail.Red and white will just pull apart with minimal force. They may even just fall apart.Not one of them has the part of the terminal meant to bite into the wire's jacket in the correct place - on the wire's jacket.It honestly looks like a blind arthritic abbo with parkinsons did those.
>>2869480>>2869479The difference about designated crimpers is the speed.. I do not mean if saves you timeThe rapid crushing causes considerable heat that actually welds the wires together into one solid piece.If you just crush it with wire cutters or a vice, you're just pinching it.Also on some of them, the metal cup ones, there's a pin hole at the bottom.After you properly crimp it you're supposed to solder it, heat it up with a torch and pour in solder until in comes out that little hole.Then heat shrink it
>>2869646>Fucker's over here living in the year 3000 crimping stuff at the speed of sound to friction weld it together...
>>2869649It's more of a factor of it having nowhere to go so it sorta superheats.
>>2869649It's time for you to go back
>>2869649
>>2869656>>2869657Pretty sure he was more pointing out the bit about the need for speed when crimping. There isn't any.>>2869646>The difference about designated crimpers is the speedNo, it isn't. OEM crimping tools make a more reliable crimp simply because they fold and compress the terminal exactly as was originally intended. Generic crimp tools, while they usually work, won't do as well of a job. How critical this is depends heavily on the connector in question; generic spade terminals crimp fine with most any crimp tool. Something like a DuPont connector is a massive pain in the ass to get a perfect crimp on with pretty much anything other than DuPont's own horrendously overpriced tools. But that all has to do with how they crush the terminal, not speed.I don't even know where you came up with the idea that speed mattered, since OEM crimp tools aren't actually any faster once you actually get to squeezing on them. They just save you time on setup and rework.>After you properly crimp it you're supposed to solder itNo, you aren't. Soldering a crimp joint creates a weak point where the solder wicks up the wire. There wouldn't be any point to making a crimp terminal if it was meant to be soldered, since the crimp wouldn't add anything to a metallically-bonded joint. Have you never heard of solder cups?Literally the first result: >https://www.haltech.com/news-events/crimping-vs-soldering/>Adding solder to a crimp join does not improve the crimp. In fact, it’s detrimental because the additional heat that is added to the wire and the solder inevitably wicks up the wire and can actually weaken the wire itself making the join more susceptible to cracking.The NASA standard doesn't even allow TINNED wire to be crimped, much less soldered after the fact.
>>2869652>so it sorta superheatsEvidence to the contrary: Copper doesn't liquefy until well past the point of incandescence and crimping doesn't make the joint glow.
>>2869652>>2869666>what is cold welding
>>2869479Crimpin ain’t easy. I always fuck it up somehow.
>>2869479>There is no way to join 2 wires into 1 for connectersSkill issue.Here is a 2x6 mm^2 crimp.We used these for bridging incoming phase to all three inputs on a 3-phase electrical meter for a 1-phase system to disable the alarm (smartmeters).This is not always okay, it depends on what the local grid operator says for installation.
>>2869499This retard has been saving this image waiting for a chance to use it and did it incorrectly. This is user error being a dumbass not the effects of pliers vs crimpers
>>2869652>It's more of a factor of it having nowhere to go so it sorta superheats.Son, Your mom's in superheat so I'm gonna cold weld my balls to her asscrack when I'm pounding that at supersonic speeds...
I have a silly question, but still rather relevant to this thread. I'm fixing 40 year old wiring harness, and unfortunately have to use chinese accessories (motorcycle controls) that aren't matching up to anything in a meaningful way. I figure I'll just slice off the OEM style connectors on the harness and the chinese parts and just connect everything with bullet connectors. I'm not good at soldering and don't really have a lot of confidence in just soldering dozens of wires. Can I just crimp the fuck out of these bullet connectors to the wires and be fine?
>>2869788If I were you i would pick up a deutsch connector kit or similar instead of using just bullet connectors. That way you can hook up multiple wires through a single connector and it will be tidy, secure, and not look like complete ass.
>>2869790>deutsch connector kitI wasn't aware they sold little kits but at the same time, I don't think that'd work for this application. Theres so many joints and splices and existing bullet connectors (OEM ones too) and it all has to fit in the headlight bucket. I have 1 OEM female, and I have 2 aftermarket male connectors I have to mix and match between shit. That connection the pencil is pointing to I either have to disassemble and re-pin and use splices off to shit anyway, or just eliminate the OEM style connectors altogether. I also don't want to spend $100 on connectors and I hate chasing electrical bullshit.
>>2869788If you have a half-decent crimp tool, yes. If you're just gonna beat it with a hammer or use pliers, it's going to be shit.
>>2869798Its a generic crimper, I've crimped several things with it and they haven't come apart or anything bad. I can crimp well, but I solder not good.
>>2869479>Are crimpers neededyes!but also you have to have good crimpers with the correct specs, and the connectors need to be the proper size for the wires you are crimping.90% of red, blue, and yellow crimp connectors are completely out of spec. you should not be able to get 14awg wire in to a red connector, 11 awg in to a blue connector, and 7 awg wire in to a yellow connector.
>>2869665> soldering a crimp joint creates a weak point where the solder wicks up the wireIt would be more accurate to say that it *moves* the weak point from immediately after the crimp.Depending on how it is soldered, that weak point may be under the insulation which helps a little bit.The overall resistances to breakage, bending and work-hardening depends mostly on how the crimp and/or solder joint is jacketed.Solder also helps prevent corrosion. It certainly doesn’t hurt to solder in the middle of the crimp but a lot of that depends on skill level.> The NASA standard… much less soldered after the fact.The reason you don’t want tinned wire crimped is because under high currents, it could potentially get hot enough to melt the solder, and pull out of the crimp. That’s why you always establish a mechanical connection first and foremost (e.g. crimping) and *then* solder.I recently took apart an old outlet plug replacement my dad had attached to his main 12 Ga extension cord he used in construction in the 1960s. He tinned the ends, they were still shiny and everything else was green crusty and decrepit. He took the time to make hooks around the screw terminals, it was still solid after all these years.… it was certainly lead based solder, I don’t know anything about the newer lead-free solders.
>>2869499These crimps break one of the golden rules of crimping (and, really, wire stripping) but it’s even more important for solid core wire.DO NOT NICK THE WIREI’ve carefully pulled out light fixtures, switches, and outlets and one of the wires just immediately snapped. Copper is notch-sensitive (like a lot of other things… aluminum maybe more so).any strands that you have there, might as well be gone. Luckily you’ve got enough.This is another benefit to soldering, it can dope the nicks reducing the negative effects of cuts and nicks (again if properly mitigated with strain reliefs).Those connectors are actually made wrong, they are punched from down from the top (from this perpective) leaving a sharp burr on the bottom which will nick the wire at those points.
>>2869792Look for faston connectors
>>2869828The worst offender is when the chinks dont braze the barrel seam as demanded by the specs. These all will fail the pull test
>>2870064Those are used on other parts of this harness, are they better than bullet connectors somehow? I have both and have used both in the past.
>>2870077Imo the larger ones are more dense than a pile of single ones. They are dirt cheap. Chinks cant fuck up the seam as one the insulated barrel like ones.
>>2870192I refer to the plug type ones, not colored insulated spades
>>2869499>they only make them as an elaborate shit test to rob suckers that cant think freelyyou're retarded and wrong
>>2869799it will be fine. just run it, if it fails, fix it.
>>2872095>t. too retarded to comprehend sarcasmpost molex and t&b tooling faggot
I built this crimper many many years ago and use it with my hydraulic press to crimp battery terminals. It is by far my favorite big crimper. I have a couple other hydraulic ones that I use when I don't want to take the cable off the machine, but I don't think they make as nice of a crimp as this one.
>>2872150
>>2872150Little bit of triple wall adhesive heat shrink and she's good to go!
Why crimp when you can wago
>>2872150>>2872151>>2872152Fuckin' mint. Did it start life as a flaring tool or did you do the beveled holes and everything?
>>2872213>Fuckin' mint. Did it start life as a flaring tool or did you do the beveled holes and everything?It was just two pieces of square bar stock to begin with. I drilled them for the alignment bolts, counterbored the spring pockets, and put them together and then squeezed them in my mill vise and drilled the holes through the middle and then just hit them with a countersink to chamfer both sides. Pretty easy to make really. I've used it for crimping battery cable ends, as well as swaging cable ends with a piece of common sch40 pipe as the ferrule, or on smaller cable sizes I will use a piece of brake tubing or something similar as my swage. I even used it with brass ferrules for air line connections a time or two until I got a better air line crimper (pic rel). So far it's shrugged everything off that I've thrown into it. I usually crimp shit up to 25 tons in my 50 ton press because in my autistic mind more tons = better crimp. Lol. I also have a 10 ton hydraulic hand crimper and a 16 ton hydraulic hand crimper with the hexagonal dies. They work great as well, but are a bit more fiddly to setup and take more passes to get a real nice crimp. On every crimper I will start at the absolute max size that will do something and crimp, rotate and crimp again, sometimes multiple times if my die isn't wide enough, then step down to the next smaller size and crimp halfway, and then rotate and crimp again. I keeps it from squishing the ferrule or cable end out in the spot where the dies come together if you do it in stages. Even that air hose crimper I do the same way, slowly increasing the amount of crimping pressure while rotating the hose/ferrule around so it doesn't squeeze it all out in one spot. Makes for a real nice looking crimp!
>>2872212But what do you do when you gotta stick it in something no wago can go?>>2869499I don’t know shit, but damn, I know that that’s not good. Anyways, rate my crimp!Or guess which is mine and which came from the factory.
>>2872444Yours is trash, the copper is supposed to be flush with ze ferrule
>>2869499this post is a good autism test
>>2872464Fugg. You’re right. There’s like .2mm of air at the tip. Oh well, still better than ze average>I’ll just twist the strands a bit, that’ll doHomeowner job.
>>2869670>cold welding>hot
>>2872761Not just hot, superhot!
>>2869479Yes.Never ever use the shitty stamped metal crimpers. Get the Gardner Bender GS-388. They are real crimpers. The higher quality ratcheting ones aren't needed if you get the Gardner Bender ones.
>>2872914>Gardner Bender GS-388t&b wt112m is a better if youre only going to have one. does both uninsulated with the indent or insulated/nylon/heat shrink without stabbing through in the 2nd crimp position
>>2872943GS-388. is 1/8 the price.
>>2869479For the average /dyi/er, do you really need such a big crimper or are small ones like >>2872444 (those trips!) good enough when you’re doing a handful of crimps for the occasional project?But more importantly, how do I make sure I don’t produce a house fire?
>>2873702For the average DIYer that'll crimp on average 2 wires per year, no you don't need a professional grade tool. Theres nothing really wrong with buying/using one if you can afford it but $100 on a tool that does 1 thing versus a $20 one that'll do arguably the same thing doesn't make sense for the home gamer. That said, neither will break so you can make each crimp for the rest of your life a little easier. How much is the difference in tool cost worth it to you?
>>2873704proto j298 combo stripper crimpers. $25 and made in usa. much heavier than the cheesy ones that come in the garbage freight kits
>>2873816Looks very similar to the knipex in the background here >>2872444 but much more unrefined. But with both: the crimping happens in the back?! But those are only for crimping on terminals like >>2869499? For just inserting into a lamp or stuff, where you screw on the cable you want to have something round or blocky for more contact?
>>2873827
