I can't get any planks cut/planed to size at reasonable cost (around $150 for transport alone) so the next best thing I can think of is joining glulam boards like pic related. I'm thinking of putting together two boards face to face each sized 18x200x2000mm (0.71" x 7.87" x 78.7") to make 36mm (1.42") thick plank. It should be able to handle at least 50kg (110 lb) load spread fairly evenly without splitting apart. Is this a retarded idea? I understand normal planks and chipboards, but glulam is new to me.If it's not too stupid then what would be best way to join the boards? Gluing this size could be difficult so I'm thinking of using screws.
>>2873623if you want to glue you can glue but i think you are making more work for yourself. the issue is you need to clamp it tight for the glue to be any good, planks that size are going to need a lot of clamps. a lot of clamps. a lot. a lot of clamps. clamps clamps clamps.i would suggest that 18x200x2000 could *probably* hold 50kg by itself on edge: https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ says 0.21mm deflection for center load, the difficulty is the same as why i beams (timber and steel) are I shaped (think of an I with a top and bottom bar if the font is wrong), the vertical member will want to twist or bend perpendicular to the load.anyway, depending where you are, if you sack up and call round, i'm sure that if you have a car you could probably find somewhere to sell you a 2x8 and let you cut it in the parking lot to fit in (or on the roof of) your car. I have made a worktop bench from three layers of 18mm ply glued and screwed and i'm very happy with it, upside down on a flat floor and just stood on it where it was being screwed at that moment. but thats a flat table top not an edge loaded beam.
>>2873628Thanks for the reply. Yeah gluing would be clamp hell. Getting 2x8 (or 48x198mm) planks wouldn't be a problem, but it's my autism/ocd: I want just the right thickness which I could easily get with glulam boards. So to thickness 2x8s I'd have to use rip saw, buy scrub/jack planes and work on a total length of 23ft (7m). A local woodshop went bankrupt and another one just sells tools like benchtop thicknessers with a high price.
110lbs isn't really much weight so that size of wood should have no issues with that... Is this for some shelving or something? Post up a picture of where the board needs to fit precisely and maybe someone can give you an idea on how to execute this more easily.
>>2873628>a lot a lot a lot a lot a lotDude, OP wants to make a 78" board. One clamp per 8", staggered left and right, let's call it every 5" that's 15 clamps, not much of an investment for any carpenter. Even gym weights will work.
>>2873647Trying to create a frame under a bed frame. Bed has storage space and wall has power and data sockets which I'm unwilling to remove. I need to cut opening for sockets but sawing the bed would compromise it. So enter a DIY frame which I can saw and get extra space.Problem is I want to match the thicknesses of the frames as closely as possible or it will bother me until I die. With glulam boards I can get all the right dimensions with least amount of work I think. Using 2x8 to the sides? I'd need to thickness them and then shave of about 2mm height from front and back boards. I do have a way of fixing the bed securely but I'm not sure the the joined glulam side boards would hold.
>>2873666That way on the side it holds 50kg very easily. I would screw and glue, but there’s relatively little force, so you might even get away with just screwing it to the corner posts >>2873628not sure what kind of wood you put in but glued laminate is a LOT stiffer than wood boards because the grain goes in different directions and the glue acts as a stiff layer >>2873658at 640 square inch hed need 50-100 clamps to get 150 psi (from the titebond spec)
>>2873666well i'll say this: you certainly are autistic.>>2873718i picked the first ply i could seegood luck with your project op, i think if you oversized the wood you could get a cheap palm trimmer router to cut a groove to keep the original bed frame from wandering around. at least extend your corner posts a little into the upper frame. unless you have some other plan to keep it in place? looking forward to see how this progresses please keep us updated.
>>2873666Move your bed out from the wall 3 inches. Just make it so the edges line up flush on the outside. You really cant stand the lower one being thicker if its hidden inside the area under your bed? Cant take pride in a job well done with thicker material used than the original?If so, i bet you arent gonna get your corners or the hole you cut neat enough to your liking. Jussayin. Autism doesnt automatically a carpenter make.
>>2873762>if you oversized the wood you could get a cheap palm trimmer router to cut a groove to keep the original bed frame from wandering aroundThis is something I probably would have done if I had a router. Would be a very nice and clean way to prevent movement. But I'm going with my original plan as I'm trying to minmax distance to wall and space inside. I'm able to use fasteners at corner posts and will place thick steel plates evenly on the inside. Hoping to get this done before chrismas.
>>2875475Forgot to say:thanks for confirming it will hold!
