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Loicense Edition

How long did it take you to get your woodworking license?
Do you have big muscles as a result of hand tool autism?
Post wood related questions, projects, ideas etc.

>resources
https://rentry.co/trc3fwya
>previous
>>2861168
>>
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how much does a 16mm hole weaken a < inch and half octagonal pine leg
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look at these malnourished tenons
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is this an actual crack or a knot artifact
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it actually cracked during dry assembly
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is something like this actually good for anything other than lightly sitting on it never see any shop stools with this design
wonder if the stretchers can actually take the full weight of a person because somebody will definitely try that
how strong are stretchers on a chair anyway i think i can remember cracking a few in school
>>
i have some extra money i want to throw at dust collection, i was thinking the hercules. mainly i need it for collecting chips from my jointer and planer as currently i'm just spewing mulch all over the yard. would this work with an added cyclone or should i go bigger? space is limited and i only have one dedicated 120V 15A circuit for it

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-gallon-osha-compliant-dust-extractor-58966.html
>>
>>2874371
This is better suited as a plant stand, too lightweight for most people to use casually.
>>
own 6 metal planes and only one of them takes a shaving wat do
>>
>>2874475
Figure out what's wrong with them and fix it.
>>
>>2874371
Prostate stimulus
>>
>>2874509
I bought em from a gypsy subhuman the plane irons are all fucked and some are missing components, almost all the plane irons have a hollow in the middle of the edge so only the 2 edges engage the wood
>>
Built A few things today.

made a small shelf to get her Sneed oils & vinegar up off the floor, installed a roll-out shelf rack & built a spice rack.

we moved into the new house 18 months ago. still customizing the storage to fit needs.

the roll-out was free. the spice rack was a late day, off hand request by the wife. made from scraps, leftover from *other scraps* of recent projects. floor shelf was leftover scraps from a raised dog bowl table... which was also made from scraps.
>>
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>>2874455
whats wrong with things being lightweight
>>
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How was this wood treated?
>>
>>2874363
>>2874365
>>2874366
>>2874368

I believe you answered your own question.

>>2874778

Looks like weathering.
>>
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dog bowl riser
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I wanna make millions by building epoxy tables, get me started bros
>>
>>2874614
So first you flatten the soles and then redo the chisels. You might even use a meta file on them for the initial grinding. Straight and square with a flat edge is better than convex with a sharp edge
>>
Saw a tea tray with an interesting design yesterday. How would one glue up such thin strips? Use some kind of metal plate keep them flat?
>>
>>2874805
top should be thicker than the legs
>>
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Been watching some turning youtubes, what do these 'fancy' vases and bowls actually sell for? Are they just making money from the videos or also the actual product?
>>
>>2875085
They have no intrinsic value since they’re vases. One from a recognised artist apparently sells at $1400. In my country custom made wood urns sell for $700, when marketed as vases a lot less than that. If you don’t have a name as an artist or a line up of different beautiful similar products, expect a very hard time selling one over $300. But if you can get it into an (online) art gallery it goes up fast.
>>
>>2874371
>pine
>load bearing chair
If you are using pine for this shit you want as much of the board as possible. Even woth oak or ash your design is weak at the drill points
>>
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>>2874814
? you can buy that shit by the square foot.
it doesnt look like made by someone with a lot of fancy tools, just a tablesaw and pre glues boards. Dowel pins hint to the ol screw glue up hack
>>
>>2874812
First, you need a totalboat sponsorship, because each one uses around $1000 in epoxy resin. Unless you fuck something up. Then it starts to get costly.
>>
>>2875188
You’re not seeing what I’m seeing or vice versa. I know you can buy laminate boards and how to glue up one like in your pic but this one is maybe 8mm thick at most.

> doesnt look like made by someone with a lot of fancy tools, just a tablesaw and pre glues boards
These guys have a huge name as a fancy ‘handmade’ furniture producer in my country, it’s an €80 tray so pretty sure it’s their own glue up
>>
>>2874785
eh not really the tenon cracked from misaligned angle of the hole and it's towards the back put a hardwood pin in it too
still don't know if the front stretchers can take the weight of a person but i guess all the joints down there should work in conjunction in some way
>>2875159
that's how chris schwarz built it an ADB and he used pine granted he used yellow pine but pine nonetheless
i do have blue pine available to me i think at the local timber store is it as strong as yellow pine
>>
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>>2875225
you're talking about this, right? cut your board 16mm short, glue complementing board to the end grain on both sides, after it dries saw off most of it, dowel and plane
>>
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>>2875225
then what else do you mean, the flush sides? they finish it on this armature likely
>so pretty sure it’s their own glue up
sure, they didnt even give an ass about aligning the boards properly
>it’s an €80 tray
in other words its calculated one hour labor at most
>>
>>2875233
>>2875243
Maybe I am too ESL, my question is how to I glue strips of this thickness together like that. because when I tried before it was hard to get a straight result, as soon as i apply pressure the strips want to move out of flat
>>
>>2875385
use cauls to keep them straight and glue in smaller stages then
>>
>>2874663
>goes to grab gun to kill nigger intruder
>aayeeeee there's a spider on it!
>>
>>2875389
This, and then do final flattening after they are glued.
>>
>>2875385
you glue much larger pieces and then cut and plane it to the final dimensions
you can make many of these short strips from one glue up
lots of clamps to keep it straight while it dries, clamp it to a stiff and flat surface
>>
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>>2875385
equal amount of clamps on top and bottom side.
If the glue face is matched perfectly, give the glue some time to soak into the wood, !when applied to both sides! white glue has an open time of multiple minutes and has to be clamped only after it turned translucent. prevents slippage at the cost of squeeze out on a not perfect fit.
And last and least, these glue ups get thrown into a belt sander until the sides are equal height. none of these dudes work artistically accurate, its all fixed in post production
>>
>>2875427
>artistically accurate
meant autistically accurate
>>
>>2875389
>>2875418
>>2875427
Thanks this all makes a lot of sense. I’ll try my hand at it just wanted to ask first because hardwoods are expensive here
>>
If you make a rectangle out of 1”x2”s laying on their side, then glue+nail 1/2” plywood onto both sides, you get a 2” thick hollow ‘sandwich panel’. This should be stiff in all directions right? And a lot stiffer than eg 1” plywood. I’m looking to build a shop cabinet for heavy stuff and have lots of small sheets and 1x2s leftover, this seems like the easiest way to make something strong out of it but I haven’t seen others doing it

>>2874363
About half, a little more. I believe 55% for a hole that is 50% rod diameter, you removed 60%
>>
>>2874334
I have an issue here
>making bookshelf as beginner ww project
>plans are for a bookshelf from a single sheet of plywood
>only issue is that you cant make any mistakes bc youll run out of material
>make a mistake cutting the vertical pieces circled in blue
>decide to build the bookshelf anyway, just with only rectangles
>finish the piece, but decide i kind of want those pieces to get the wavy back and forth look
The issue is, how do i attach those pieces now? obviously youre supposed to put them in when doing the initial glue up, but now theyd have to be slid in. Im considering
>ripping a groove down the top and bottom of board, filling with glue, sliding in and clamping
Would that work? is there a better way to go about this?
>>
How do I get wood to a very smooth surface that will hide the grain when painted. Is aqua coat good?
>>
Im retarted, I bought a drill and it has drill setting and hammer setting but no screw setting, did I make a bad purchase or am I overthinking it and just use the drill setting to screw?
>>
>>2875559
?all drills are like that, you can use the numbers to set torque if you dont want to crank something down too hard, otherwise just use the drill setting
>>
>>2875572
This drill has a screw setting though
https://youtu.be/xRc7tF0mS9Y
>>
>>2875575
ive never seen that before, it could be some fancy anti-strip tech, but id guess its just a marketing gimmick to help it sell to people who dont use alot of tools. On 99% of drills the numbers are torque settings, lower numbers mean the clutch will release with only a little amount of torque... higher numbers mean the clutch will release after alot of torque... "drill mode" means it wont clutch out at all. Then theres 1 and 2 for speeds. Drills are just a motor for turning things, theres really not that much to them, most people just go my feel... i havent changed the setting on mine in years
>>
>>2875545
just do it already
>>
>>2875545
>Would that work? is there a better way to go about this?
Yeah it should work but it's going to be tough if you've already done the rest of the assembly. I'd consider attaching them with these on the back side, then drive some angles pin nails to hold the front in place. Drive the nails below the surface, then use wood filler in the holes and sand it flat.
>>
>>2875547
Sand it to 150 and coat it with primer.
>>
>>2875602
I tried this on a scrap piece and can still see it with 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint. Should I go get an oil based primer?
>>
>>2875527
>this seems like the easiest way to make something strong out of it but I haven’t seen others doing it

The more complete version of this is known as a 'torsion box'. For the full effect you also put stringers inside glued to the faces, gives excellent stiffness-to-weight.
>>
>>2875559
If you’re trying to sink a screw below the face of the wood then use the drill picture. If you’re putting together ikea furniture, put it on like the number 4. When you hear clicking that means it won’t spin anymore. If you need more depth, turn the number higher.
>>
>>2875665
> torsion box
thank you a bunch that’s exactly the term I was looking for but couldn’t find it.
>>
>>2875664
Yes, you should use oil based primers on wood. Water based will soak in and raise the grain. Once it is primed you can use either oil or water based paint.
>>
>>2875716
Ah makes sense. Thank you
>>
Posted some woodworking manuals and magazines, some basic, some more advanced. Hopefully of some use to someone.


gofile.io/d/7Y3oJD

(Self deletes after a while, so sooner is better)
>>
>>2875837
doesn't work for me
does it have fine woodworking magazines
>>
>danish oil darkens wood
>tfw doesn't work for me
>>
For a first project I want to do a bench, should I do something like this (no plywood just 2x4s) and what screws should I use?
>>
>>2875861
Or something like this and is it the same screws?
>>
>>2875842
>gofile.io/d/7Y3oJD

I just added 35 issues of Fine Woodworking.

It is set to public, maybe you have a filter blocking it.
>>
I just did some triangle things out of 1x4s, they are supposed to be decorative trees, can I a simple answer how do I make it green and finish it|? I saw some videos but it got confused with all the options and things that mix with other things.
I heard I can use a water soluble dye (dont know what dye would be) and then just cover it with mineral oil, seems simple enough, but I wanted to give some away and I hear mineral oil doesnt last long or doesnt in good condition
>>
>>2875385
>as soon as i apply pressure the strips want to move out of flat
Did you run the pieces through a joiner? Edges have to be flat and at a nearly perfect 90 degrees to the board faces. Or when you clam them, they'll conform to their uneven edges.
>>
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Started to make frames with out planning with mixed router bit sets in a shaper. Needs mental adjustement. Using cmt/chink bits
>>
>>2875861
>>2875862
Use waterproof glue, screws don’t handle the repeated swelling and shrinking of softwoods outdoors well

>>2875968
Looks good anon
>>
>>2875884
isp block i proxy'd into it thanks fren
>>
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>>2875910
You can buy some green tinted wood stain from a store, or the cheap and easy method is to add food coloring to rubbing alcohol in the color you want. It doesn't take much. The recommended order to apply would be clear coat - alcohol dye - clear coat. You can use a water based clear coat, or polyurethane, or shellac, just be aware that some will add their own yellow character to the finish. Here is an example of a toy I made like this.
>>
>>2875985
I didnt not expect that, will glue really handle the weight of a grown man maybe 2? Guess I will make the order for green Titebond
>>
>>2875985
>>2876054
Or did you mean glue plus screws?
>>
>>2876054
Most modern glues make joints stronger in shear than the wood itself is. So yes, in a design like >>2875861 glue alone is more than enough. Screw and glue is nice because you can work faster and don’t need as many clamps. If you’re just going to use 2x4s glue them so that the bark side points in the same direction instead of alternating them to avoid gaps. The 2x4s pictures are some terrible quality btw
>>
>>2874743
The average American will break their hip and both arms using lightweight stools
>>
>>2875862
looks tippy, legs are too close together unless there is a base burried under the wood chips
3" torx deck screws, #9 or #10 I think or whatever the normal size is
they'll be gold or brown, that's the annodizing and paint to protect it from moisture
the wood in your pic is pressure treated but it's the more expensive kind that they dye brown instead of green. you can use brown or green just make sure it's ground contact and not normal framing lumber
>>
Do you guys reckon I'd get in trouble for turning harry potter wands and selling them?
>>
>>2876299
How can you even do that? arent they just sticks?
>>
Tourist here. How do I into woodworking?

I just wanna build simple shit like >>2874805. Do you really just saw up a couple of 2x4s and nail them together? Is it really that easy?
>>
>>2876355
Beginner here. Let me tell you my experience.
Went to a class, is great but kinda have to learn again from the beginning because I dont have access to all those tools.
I got a handsaw to try nail things together, but the cuts were really bad and uneven so they were useless, I could have probably gotten better but I would have wasted lot of wood in the process.
Next got a few chisels to try to even the cuts but I couldnt do it, then I got a sharpening stone and tried free hand but I wasnt good at it, then I bought a jig to get consistent angles and then I saw the stone was shit and I just gave up on the chisels and bought a circular saw.
Now the thing I wanted to build I dont want to build anymore, thought about smaller stuff but circular saws are not good for small stuff.
I decided to make do with the circular saw and glue, but now Im thinking how I will finish to not be fucked by weather, cans of the stuff are expensive and dont know what to get.
So dont fuck around wasting time like I did I guess.
>>
>>2874363
You cut the sides off, there's only like 20% material remaining.
If you plug that hole tight it will help, but I'm not optimistic about the durability
>>
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>>2874371
LOL funny as fuck dude
>its a vest rack, jackets too
>>
>>2876299
just call them "wizard wands" or something generic like that, even if they're nearly direct copies from the movies
>>2876338
pretty sure they changed their apperance several times throughout the movies, along with the whole atmosphere, color grading, director and several of the actors
>>
>>2876365
I just wanna make a little table. Buying a circular saw would be overkill
>>
>>2876355
>Do you really just saw up a couple of 2x4s and nail them together? Is it really that easy?
Yeah, if you don't care what it looks like
You can do a lot with a drill and a skilsaw, which is probably what that fella used. Maybe a jigsaw to make the round hole. You could use a hand saw if you don't want to buy a skilsaw, it just takes longer.
>>
>>2876397
If you make your table a standard size they have pre-cut 2x2', 2x4' and 2x8' plywood at the menards. I made a desk that way out of 2x4s and a 2x4' 3/4" plywood.
You have to build an apron to make it strong, which is just a rectangle made of more 2x4s screwed onto the legs and the table top. And if you want it real sturdy you can add stringers which are also just 2x4s screwed to the legs. A table built this way will be far stronger than anything you can buy.
>>
>>2876389
is that gonna be me
>>
I don’t know what the problem with these is but I used 3 of them and 2 just randomly got stuck while unscrewing them. Sounded like the thread skipped or something. They weren’t even tight or misaligned (M8 screws in 10mm hole so plenty of clearance), I’d installed and removed both them before so it can’t be debris either. Got so stuck (they’re stainless) that it took a lot of drilling and a crowbar to finally remove them. Does anyone know what can cause this?
>>
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I think I'm just gonna kms instead of finishing this project.
>>
I'm broke and ignorant, is it worth to start woodworking on a tight budget with no electric tools?
>>
>>2876549
The older I get the more I use hand tools.
No set-up, no jigs, charging of batteries (and finding that battery).
Watch that bald rex krueger guy, he shows you how to do everything you’ll need.
The most expensive thing you need is probably a smoothing plane.
>>
>>2876492
> kys instead of finishing project
I have hundreds of unfinished projects. Literally hundreds. But I don’t care.
>>
>>2876452
Were you trying to screw them into the hole? That's not how they work.
>>
>>2876492
Be willing to scrap the project, but learn from it.
>>
>>2876549
No, you may think youre saving by using hand tools, but youll never get stuff done, is fine if you buy one electric tool a month
>>
Newfag here. When should I do joinery as opposed to just nailing shit together?
>>
>>2876800
Nailing is joinery.
It’s a continuum. Here’s a useful table:
Birdhouses: nails
2x4 house construction: nails or screws
Sheathing: crown staples
Trim and moulding: brad nails
>>
>>2876816
I mean "nice" joinery, like dovetails and shit. Is that purely for decoration?
>>
>>2876800
You’re free to use fasteners alongside joints if you’re not a purist.

Main function of most joints is to give the pieces multiple mating surfaces instead of one, each additional mating surface restricts movement/rotation in one or more dimensions, and provides a glue surface to restrict even more. Nails/screws are very strong in the shear plane but will easily pull out when bending or pulling the pieces apart (old days house construction joints were made ‘sliding’ or free to move and rotate in one plane, with nails to lock the joint in that plane.

Also you usually don’t want to put fasteners like nails or screws into end grain. Think of a drawer, you could make one by stapling everything together but simple joints like a dovetail/rabbet/housing dado make it a lot stronger with no chance of splitting the material
>>
>>2876826
It is an alternative to mechanical fasteners. Many traditional joints are not only more visually appealing but also stronger. For someone starting though, there is nothing wrong with using screwed together joints. You can get an affordable pocket hole jig. You can learn to hide your screws with decorative plugs. And when you feel you are ready, learn how to do a mortise and tenon or a dovetail.
>>
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>>2874334
Anyone tried there hand at being a Luthier? Was looking at building my own acoustics / classical guitars and possibly smaller stuff like violins and mandolins. Maybe doing repair and refab as a side gig.
>>
Should i get into charred wood finish
Pine shit looks too generic
>>
>>2876987
I've done it professionally for a while, AMA I guess. Not with my own business license or anything, more like production in a smallish factory plus my own repair and building on the side.

Kind of a weird business. IMO any woodworker who's competent with hand tools could pick it up pretty fast. There are a number of operations that require some special tools and techniques, but the buy-in isn't that crazy. It obviously helps if you play, and can just understand it as a functional object; knowing which dimensions are crucial and which are subjective aesthetic or feel things. There is a ton of magical thinking surrounding the whole thing; customers and builders alike often assume that there's some high science or technique behind things when the reality is usually more like, X famous company began doing it that way 100 years ago and it worked pretty well, so it became the norm. Margins are very small compared to cabinetry or something, it's always a passion thing these days. But you can make a living

Try building a uke first; the only special tools you would really NEED would be a very thin-kerf saw for fret slots and maybe a small file for dressing; you probably even have a file that could work for that if you were careful. It's cheaper and faster than any geetar but uses all the same operations. Don't waste good wood until you have a couple dry runs
>>
>>2877156
Thanks for the input.

>IMO any woodworker who's competent with hand tools could pick it up pretty fast.
I'm a complete beginner noob. I've peeled a stick once. Probably need to do some intro wood-shop before touch this I assume.

> There is a ton of magical thinking surrounding the whole thing
Funny, honestly thought a physics text on acoustics would've helped, but nothing beats trial & error + time .

>it's always a passion thing these days.
That's the idea, something to supplement my dreary worklife in IT really.
>>
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>>2877158
Maybe try making one of these lil niggas. They're traditionally diy folk instruments and it's kind of hard to go wrong. Lots of books have been written about them; try "In Search of the Wild Dulcimer" by Robert Force if it sounds appealing. Cigar box guitars are cool too but personally the fat suburban blues dad culture puts me off, lol.

Learning about structures or acoustics would absolutely not hurt, just understand that guitars as we mostly know them today were never "engineered," they were arrived at by some smart craftsmen via intuition and cut-and-try, then analyzed much later, if at all. There have been various more deliberately-"engineered" guitars marketed over the last 100 years or so, but they usually end up being loved by some and hated by the rest. Questioning how much of it is just about what we're used to.

The way more important thing is to spend the time picking up craft. Better luthiers definitely use more "concept" when it comes to getting resonance and tuning, but it demands excellent craft to achieve, so getting nitpicky at the start is putting the cart before the horse. And most of it is procedural; just knowing your materials and getting your ducks in a row. For example, the greats will thin the open areas of a soundboard with precision, especially on archtops. But the gains are marginal, and impossible to achieve if you aren't good with a knife and finger plane. Etc.
>>
>>2877158
Have you entertained an idea of building a box guitar?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJt4_iMAWKE
>>
>>2877158
Since you now have random fags telling you to make instruments, I'll go with my favorite thousand year old instrument.
Make a psaltery, if they could make them a thousand years ago, you can probably make one too.
Then enter a downward spiral of LARPing around while playing medieval music before succumbing to some random sexually transmitted disease from some random wench.
>>
gym bench made of MDF feasible?
>>
>>2877182
Bowed or plucked? Also just want to say, aeolian window harp.

>>2877355
I wouldn't. You could do it but it would have to be quite heavy and clunky and idk it's kind of just asking for trouble when you could make it out of pine 1X2's just fine
>>
are those table saws on a stand supposed to be not good?
>>
>>2877166
That looks fun, I'd be happy to craft something like that .

>>2877162
>The way more important thing is to spend the time picking up craft. Better luthiers definitely use more "concept" when it comes to getting resonance and tuning, but it demands excellent craft to achieve, so getting nitpicky at the start is putting the cart before the horse. And most of it is procedural; just knowing your materials and getting your ducks in a row.
Aptly put. I'd get as much experience as possible despite preferences.

>>2877182
>>2877363
>psaltery
>aeolian window harp
Beautiful ye olde pieces. How about a Greek lyre too?
>>
>>2877383
Related question, what’s a good value for money table saw that isn’t on stands
>>
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>>2877383
>>2877434
i have the skil 10" i got on sale earlier in the year (weirdly enough cheaper than the (((black friday))) price), works great
>>
>>2877535
the idea of a jobsite table saw is just hilarious to me
who's sitting there on a construction site ripping lumber or cutting dados and stuff instead of just using miter saw quickly on dimensional lumber and slapping it together to make a structure
>>
>>2877434
I really like my compact Dewalt, It weighs 50 lbs, which is nice because I store it on a shelf. I would have preferred the larger model, but no place to store it.


the rack and pinion fence system is a godsend for me.
>>
>>2877551
more goes into construction than just framing
>>
>>2877434
Not a table saw, but for sheet goods I like using this thing. Kind of a combination mitre and table saw. The slider locks to push long-ass things through.

One day I might mod it to have the saw replaceable with, say, a router to cut dados. Or even a chisel plane,

I use my table saw less and less. I think with a tracksaw to break down bigger stuff I’d probably never use it.
>>
/ourgirl/ ?

https://youtu.be/KJM_uZH-jNg?si=6wYCssI_jweOmslW&t=115
>>
>>2877563
like what formwork?
idk concrete framework just seems like hammering nails and pulling them out of the same set of boards
don't say cabinets
>>
>>2877580
What is this thing called? From picture I have no idea how one would cut sheets with this
>>
>>2877836
>women can woodwork
pack it in boys
>>
>>2877852
It’s a flooring saw. You can’t break down full sheets with it, but you can break down smaller pieces with it by pushing it through. The slider locks in the middle for that purpose.
>>
is paul finally creative bankrupt?
it has to be like the 5th time he builds that 3 diamond plates plywood benchood
>>
>>2877862
NTA
But that thing actually looks kinda cool.
Seems to do a passable job both as table saw and as miter saw. Depending on the price might be nice for guys on a low budget and/or short on space.
>>
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Could a sanding expert help me out choosing a new one primarily for woodworking projects like furniture, cutting boards, stuff like that?
>have a cheap oscillating saw with the sanding head, but would like something more powerful, it’s ok for getting into tight spots
>pic related, I have Milwaukee m18 batteries, but I’m not a Milwaukee guy, any brand is fine
>corded vs cordless, cordless would be nice for the occasional Sheetrock repair, but if corded ones are way better for the price I’m good with corded
I can’t afford festool or fancy stuff, but is there a good reason to upgrade beyond like harbor freight for a sander? Not super concerned about dust collection
>>
>>2877911
I used to sand pretty much all day at my job and in your shoes I'd probably just get whatever corded random orbital sander. Fuck batteries. High quality/appropriate paper would be a better use of your cash I think, most people underappreciate the difference in labor and finish quality there. That bein said, most of what I've done is just using power sanding in the rough stages and surface finishing by hand, make of that what you will
>>
>>2877911
>but is there a good reason to upgrade beyond like harbor freight for a sander?
sanding is miserable and since work is time*power you can cut down on the misery by buying a higher wattage sander with fitting orbit radius and large pad
>>
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>>2877911
The only advantage of fes stool ever is the dust control. It's $50 just to replace the velcro pad on their RO.
All ROs are very useful. They do their jobs well over many grits. I lean to corded because they are cheaper and most sanding jobs require quite a bit of run time. I often have to remove any evidence of seams in MDF tops or cabs. As well, finishing wood items involves climbing grit # in steps. I generally have good luck with Bauer HF tools as their Chicago electric stuff tends to self destroy around a year of hard use. My Porter Cable has been good for years. Newer Dewalts have good ergonomics and probably higher rpm.
Your sheetrock repair is going to be mostly manual pole sander and low grit. Most walls are fine with 120.
>>
>>2877836
London girls with $90k shops don't fuck with us.
>>
what if you made this in hardwood
https://www.amazon.ca/PlayWood-Connector-Tool-Free-Furniture-Assembly/dp/B07JZV28YC?th=1
>>
>>2878074
Not entirely impossible, though you'd have to be careful about grain selection and you'd have to use a T nut in the outside piece so you pull the two pieces together from the outside. If you put a threaded insert into the outside piece you'll probably just end up ripping the protruding middle section off when you apply any load to it.
>>
>>2878074
>>2878104
I’d suggest making the central part bigger and embedding a regular nut. Other anon is right about the grain, you’d need make them about 2/3”-3/4” of hardwood I think unless you have something with the exactly right grain

T nuts dig themselves in if the angle is slightly off. Did y’all know that an M6 rivet nuts have a flange too AND fit perfectly in a 3/8” hole
>>
How do I into sanding?
Is there a standard? Like do I start with a 100 and work my way up to what number? And how much do I need to work my way up to something or can I just jump to the end? and how does that change with depending on the finish particularly mineral oil?
>>
cutting boards were a mistake
>>
>>2878293
Depends on the wood, it’s roughness, and what you’re sanding for. >>2875837 has a good finishing book (called ‘finishing wood’). For painting, check the can, usually you stop between 180 and 320. If it’s already pretty smooth you can start at 120, sometimes even 80. You go down by 20 when all you see on the surface is scratches from the previous grit and no more other irregularities.
>>
>>2878293
>>2878310
do you also sand between coats of paint or only varnish
>>
>>2877877
paul who? sellers? allen?
>>
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Been working on this bed frame for a while. The rails and posts are fixed to each other, but the head boards, foot boards, and slats (with support beams and center foot) are all detachable. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, but one of the posts has a 1 or 2 degree wobble to it that annoys me.
>>
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>>2878372
ugly
>>
>>2878335
It depends, on real poly it is often recommended for adhesion and because it doesn’t level very well. On acrylic (or acrylic with added poly) varnishes you only sand lightly before the final coat because it’s very easy to sand through the layers.

After the first layer the grain will often come up a bit because they soak up the varnish, so you sand them off (often taking most of the first coat off with them).
>>
>>2878372
I like the joinery and think it’ll look great when finished but did nobody tell you that bed slats have a function and that they should be flexible instead of fixed
>>
>>2877999
why do people wear earmuffs for handtool and paintwork
>>
>>2878439
not all of them are fixed, just a few

>>2878400
fucked up the top, I need to make some nicer looking shims to get the width right.
>>
>>2878444
Have you never hit something really hard with a hammer or a mallet?
>>
is "engineered wood" basically just plywood with a thicker constructional veneer glued on top?

I inherited a few square meters of 2.5mm constructional veneer and I'm wondering if I could ghetto some "engineered wood" treads out of that for my stairs
>>
>>2878503
It's a blanket term covering literally all of the different subtypes of "we took some wood apart and glued it back together" materials
>>
>>2878504
the use case makes sense to me though, I was thinking of doing something like this dude https://youtu.be/AI1poE8dn10 except with the constructional veneer on top of / instead of the plain plywood because I bet that would wear out way too fast
>>
>charge only minimum wage + materials for your work
>>
>>2878499
you're not forging
>>
What’s the best clear poly varnish? I’m willing to import, poly is crazy expensive here and more and more ‘good stuff’ gets banned or disappears.

I’m looking for something that can preferably be used single coat but 2 is fine, satin gloss, that doesn’t cure in the bottle within 2 months after opening.
>>
>>2878795
The acrylic water based polys stay the most transparent, but oil based have higher durability. I almost always go for looks and just layer up with abrasives between layers. Wax and steel wool after if that's what I'm into.

memes like hard wax oils are the expensive route. Without first hand use, I'm unconvinced they're not simply finishing oils dissolved into waxes. There's probably a rabbit hole of clear lacquers you could spray.
>>
>>2878795

Not poly but shellac flakes. Dissolve in 190 proof grain alcohol, high quality denatured alcohol (only a little methanol or else it's unsuitable), or 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. I haven't tried isopropyl myself but have heard it works if you can't obtain proper purity of ethanol. Shellac flakes will keep a long time. You want to do more like 3 or 4 coats, but the drying time between coats is measured in minutes, and it's very forgiving of fuckups. Shellac flakes will keep a long time, but once you mix some up there is a period of a few months where you should use it. Mixing a new batch takes about half a day for it to all dissolve, with occasional stirring. Shellac isn't as durable as poly, but is also trivial to repair.
>>
>Coffer
>Trunk
>Chest
I just want to build a box with a lock, why must it be this confusing?
>>
>>2878803
>>2878837
Sorry for I didn’t mention I use it for outdoors and high contact stuff (for other stuff just cheap acrylic). I think it has to be poly as the other stuff is much weaker in my experience (except for epoxy but that has other issues) tho I’m open to non-poly suggestions that can be used outside and can be like walked on
>>
why are some people's chisels so short esp the older ones have they really been grinding and sharpening it for so long that it's only a fraction of the length it was originally
>>
>>2878961
Yes but also chisels were often just plain shorter directly off the factory line in the past and a lot of people fell for the butt chisel meme.
>>
>>2878961
Japanese chisels are usually pretty stubby looking even when new.
>>
>>2878837
> shellac — use only a little methanol
I would think that 100% methanol would be the best… it’s the smallest molecule of the alchohol and generally the best solvent.
Once the shellac has dried, the methanol should be gone if it’s the poisonous aspect you’re worried about.
>>
>>2878795
> best poly
I usually get that stuff intended for re-finishing floors. Should be relatively plentiful and it’s extremely durable.
I use it as a top-coat on shelves so books and shit doesn’t stick to the shelf.
>>
>>2879029
You're probably right, but the denatured alcohol that's got a lot of methanol is also cut with other shit that turns into gooey sludge with shellac that never dries. My experience with 190 proof grain alcohol from the liquor store on the other hand, has been that it's perfect. If you don't have a well ventilated area and good gloves, you really shouldn't work with pure methanol, otherwise fuck it, why not?
>>
>>2874334
>Do you have big muscles as a result of hand tool autism?
I have big muscles because of moving signal equipment transit cases around while I was in the Army.
>>
>>2877999
You don't need to be alone with your thoughts with your hearing protection on:
https://isotunes.com
>>
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>>2878837
If you want to speed it up you can get a magnetic stirrer for $20-30.

This little bedroom side table I made is walnut with only clear spray shellac applied.
>>
>>2879101
When I worked in a shop I would put on earmuffs and forget I had them on and end up wearing them for like six hours. Nice peace and quiet.
>>
>>2879103
metal can do everything wood can do whats the point of wood stuff
>>
>>2879142
>Looks good
>Feels nice
>Can last forever if made right and cared for
>Doesn't rust/corrode
>>
stone mogs wood for many applications
>>
>>2879160
idk stainless steel can look quite good for most things
metal easily beats wood for durability
doesn't rust but does rot aluminium copper and stuff don't even degrade from rust
>>2879175
wood does mog stone for quick and easy building moving, shaping, laying stone takes forever
>>
fucks with people using brush to apply glue
how do you clean that
>>
>>2879175
Stone? Stone cracks, and is heavy.
Carbon fiber (and,eventually, nanotubes) is where it’s at.
I’m going to drop woodworking and make everything out of carbon fiber from now on.
>>
>>2879175
instead of trying to make a heritage piece you can make something that requires demo work to even remove.
>>
>>2879231
Water
>>
>>2879231
>how do you clean that
Either use a silicone brush and it just pulls off after it's dry, or use a super cheap brush you just throw away after use.
>>
How good are woodwork classes?
I did woodwork/shop in High School but I can't remember much
I'm going to look if there are any intensive classes, about 5-10 hours a week
Anything I should look out for?
>>
>>2879321
Rockler and Woodcraft both do in-store classes.
>>
>>2879290
that would be a lot of brushes to throw away
>>
>>2879420
I mean you can get them for next to nothing in massive bulk packs but as >>2879285 said, PVA is water soluble. You literally just wash them in cold water.
>>
>>2879247
Carbon fiber literally unravels like fabric on a single scratch
>>
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I have some old barn cedar boards I'm making into closet guts but idk what finish it with. This is my first project (yes I cropped out my fuckup).
>>
>>2879803
Are you planning to have a quick finish over the wood itself or do you want to trim and veneer it somehow? If the former, I've found multiple applications of Danish oil goes well with barn cedar (you can even pick a stained Danish oil), and then one final coat of shellac on top at the end.
>>
>>2879806
Yeah the first one, thanks Ill get some cans to test out. Just wanted something that I can put clothes on and not get them dirty/stained.
This thing is going to weigh 400lbs just to hold up 8lbs of clothes. Had to do something with the old barn.
Might resaw the extras into 2 3/4 boards and use them for floorboards.
>>
>>2879803
those fancy shuttered doors don't deserve these insides
>>
>>2879820
Doors cost as much as a single one of the cedar boards retail
>>
Sup wwg thanks for the tips on hiding screws for my handrail. I ended up not using a plug drill because I couldn’t find a good one. Got a 20mm holesaw instead that happens to be perfectly 16mm on the inside. Had to only lightly tap the plugs with a mallet to get them in. Used skylt 5510 which is pretty nice to work with
>>
>>2879834
Thats no excuse to not work on them
>>
I made a bed to for my youngest. I'll probably redo the cubby steps because they ended up being taller than I anticipated.
>>
>>2880151
The child must become accustomed to climbing.
Also are you bolting that to the wall? The lack of diagonal bracing comes across as a bit sketchy.
>>
>>2880156
There is some diagonal bracing behind the mattress, and it is bolted to the steps which are quite heavy.
>>
>>2880151
those balusters on the guard rail are too far apart. You probably want to go for a 4” gap there.
Not code compliant.
Look at the distance of the slats on a crib and do likewise.
>>
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>>2880163
If you're going to give inapplicable advice at least get the numbers right. Cribs are not to have any gaps larger than 6cm (2 25/69") or smaller than 4.5cm (1 71/92"), including the slats, but then they're also supposed to have sides that extend at least 60cm above the mattress because they're meant to keep barely mobile babies with heads literally larger than their torsos from crawling out and hurting or paradoxically hanging themselves, not to provide a small lip so the toddler that's literally 3x the size doesn't accidentally roll off in his sleep.
Are you also going to berate him for using screws that sit proud instead of flat furniture screws? There's no side on the foot end; that's very unsafe for 3-month-olds. I wonder if there are any screw holes, recessed and populated or otherwise, wider than 7mm.
>>
>>2879118
>>2879101
>>2877999
but being with your thoughts is good?
wonder how well these work for noisy boomers and shitty neighbours and how long can you keep them before fatigue
i have earplugs but the hard ones start hurting the ear holes after a while and the soft ones barely stop any noise
>>
>>2879992
Im not done
>>
> put freshly jointed and ripped piece of cherry through planer, nearly done
> falls on the other side just right and puts large crack down half the length of one face and an edge
At least it wasn't that big a piece, just 1.25"x1.75"x36", but holy fuck how did a 2 foot drop fuck it up like that? Existing internal stress?
>>
why are people at fine woodworking so fancy schmancy is this a gay magazine the pages have more ads than content
>>
I’m having a hard time cutting my outside corner crown molding. Now I have to go back to Lowe’s and buy another $25 8ft piece because I didn’t have it perfectly pressed against the guide on my miter saw
>>
>>2880429
> the pages have more ads than content
This is the sign of dying media, the print version is for boomers. I hope if you're paying for online content there's no ads.
>>
>>2880479
something's off about their physiognomy they look like they're doing characters
>>
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>>2874334
first time diy
got a chinese poplar plywood stuff that's quite rough to touch and i want to make it smooth and black
stuff that's available to me: bunch of sandpapers, black acrylic paint, brush, clear varnish gloss spray paint
I already figured out the varnish comes on top of paint, but i'm not sure whether it's okay to do extra sanding after 1st or 2nd layer of paint or varnish. what's the correct order of sanding?
>>
>>2876048
I really like that pic. Makes me want to make a toy truck or 2 now
>>
>>2880429
Magazines exist to expose readers to ads. The ad companies pay for the operation of the magazine.
>>
>>2880497
Sand
Prime
Fine sanding
Paint
Varnish
Fine sand and repeat varnish if desired
>>
>>2880497
you could use the varnish as an undercoat before the paint then smooth out the raised grain with the sandpaper
after that apply the paint maybe 2 coats minimum
>>
>>2880556
>you could use the varnish as an undercoat before the paint
that's interesting, I wouldn't have thought of that
will try, thanks for advice
>>
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Hey guys, so I'm a dumbass. I was putting together a new changing table and I accidentally used a wrong screw that was too long and it pushed through the top of the table. It's just some particle board, but am shocked it broke through so easily as it is pretty heavy. What would be the best way to go about fixing it? I was thinking about sanding it down a bunch and trying to get a lot of the broken shit out of there, and put some wood filler in and then repaint over it. Would this be the best path forward, or any other suggestions?
>>
>>2880560
It's important you don't use a water based paint directly on the wood. You want an oil based varnish or primer under it to prevent water absorption.
>>
>>2880629
>I was thinking about sanding it down a bunch and trying to get a lot of the broken shit out of there, and put some wood filler in and then repaint over it.
You can do that but don't expect it to be able to hold a screw there. How close is it to an edge? Can you reach it with a clamp?
>>
>>2880642
>How close is it to an edge? Can you reach it with a clamp?
Pretty close to the edge, maybe 3.5 inches? I can't check right now as it's in my daughters room and she's sleeping.
>You can do that but don't expect it to be able to hold a screw there
So the problem was the screw that I was SUPPOSED to use, was like 1 inch, compared to the one that I used was like 3 inches. Once I used the one I was supposed to, it seems like it fit in there snugly. so I don't see why it wouldn't hold a screw there? I'm ignorant, so I don't necessarily understand the point you're making, not challenging you.
Can you reach it with a clamp?
I'm not sure, but can check in the morning. But...what would the clamp be for? Again, I'm a dumbass.
>>
>>2880392
Now you can resin impregnate it I guess.
>>
>>2880645
>But...what would the clamp be for?
If you can get a clamp on that spot, you could put glue in the cracks then clamp it back flat. May or may not be viable.
>don't see why it wouldn't hold a screw there
Wood filler is not made to be structurally strong. While a screw will go into it, you don't want to be depending on that screw to hold in place under any strain.
>>
>>2880650
Thank you for the response, and that makes sense. The top seems structurally sound enough with the other ~7 screws holding it in place. If it broke while moving, I wouldn't care. This is some Delta Children's shit, which I said I'd never buy anything else from them(long story), but my wife really liked it so she went for it. I'm really just looking for aesthetically resolved since it was brand new.
>>
>>2880649
As much as I hate the resin meme this sounds like the most reasonable option.
>>
i got liquid natural glue that looks brown red like hide glue they say it's used for book binding apparently it's latex based
could this work like hide glue modern amount of heat doesn't seem to be doing anything but it did bind two pieces of wood like a very weak glue (maybe i didn't let it dry completely)
>>
Retard from /tg/ here so I want to make a big one of these Forerunner beam emitters from Halo as a huge piece of wargame terrain.

I have a large plank thats bevelled fairly similar to the angle of the upper structure here but as you can see its a complex shape. I’m going to saw it in half and secure the two shaped side to a big center fit into the base. I don’t have a bandsaw but i might be able to find someone with one but how could i tackle the sort of window section? Should I saw it out in sections and glue them back together or go in with a drill and try and saw the shape out?
Thanks in advance.
>>
This is my piece of wood for the upper forward section there.

Ignore the pencil drawings thats a cursory sketch.
>>
>>2880640
>>2880555
always wonder why even bother priming it's not like the primer is any cheaper than paint yeah sure the wood sucks down the first coat like a bitch but you can just apply more coats
>>
>>2880784
I’d assemble it out of numerous blocks and use yellow wood glue to hold it together. Wood glue is generally stronger than the wood.
>>
>>2880845
Thanks. Do you think i’m wise to attempt this with a handsaw?
>>
>>2880848
If you're asking the question then the answer is no. It can absolutely be done with a handsaw and a plane though.
>>
>>2880848
So, yes and no.
Again, if it were me, I’d rough-cut the blocks using something like a sliding compound mitre saw.
(I’m not sure how big this thing actually is, but it seems like a sliding compound mitre saw would probably do it. If it’s tiny, you don’t need the slider)
The biggest and most important facets will be done by the mitre saw. Those are the reference edges.
Eventually the pieces will be too small to cut, so you have to use cyanoacrylate or hot melt glue to attach it to another piece to safely cut and whack them off with a mallet.
>>2880932
> handsaw and a plane
Depending on how your mitre saw goes, you might want to finish with a plane and chisels with numerous shooting blocks/jigs for the different angles. See picrel. Afterward, most likely, I’d tape some sand paper to something perfectly flat and hand-sand the facets like they are gemstones.
>>
>>2880939
>>2880932

The section i’ll work on first will be about 45cm.

The hardest angle is fortunately on the scrap plank I have there. So i think a plane will likely do that. Didn’t know about mitre saws. Thanks I’ll pick one up.
>>
drum sander works for tiny fragile pieces?
>>
>>2880755
For structural strength, especially on a nice board, it's sadly often the only reasonable option to recover a cracked piece like that.
>>
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>>2880497
sanded, coated, sanded, painted 2 layers black
now masking for the pattern, decided to spray a bit of gold effect on top of black before varnish, its a pain in the neck but hopefully it will look good-ish
>>
>>2881062
You need to sand it more
>>
>>2881064
damnit, i've spent too much time masking already
>>
>>2881065
I was half-joking
Looks fine for a first attempt but the plywood finishing game goes much much deeper
>>
>>2881067
there's enough factors i already worry about, thanks
>masking tape bleeding
>wood texture under gold layer
>required thickness and whether it will be noticeable after putting varnish over it
>>
>>2881070
You'll get wood texture under the gold layer. There is nothing you can do about it now that doesn't involve removing the masking tape.
>>
>>2881070
>>masking tape bleeding
imagine having one job and being not even good at it
you know what i worry about sometimes weather the thinner in the varnish will distort the paint esp writings or graphics underneath
>>2881067
>plywood finishing game goes much much deeper
oh yeah how deep?
>>
>>2881067
Unless you start with a super smooth surface plywood you gotta be careful or you'll just go through the top layer.
>>
>>2880932
>If you're asking the question then the answer is no.
the fuck? lol
>>
>>2881062
eh
it is what it is
>>
>>2881255
Its no marquetry lol
>>
>>2881255
Honestly I thought you'd get way worse bleed under the masking with that surface but it looks like it went fine.
I also can't tell if I'm mostly seeing wood grain or brush marks there.
>>
>>2881308
mostly wood grain but actually both
>>
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Does anyone know what kind of wood is in the generic plywood Michaels sells? I tried staining some with Minwax Golden Pecan but it I don't know if its my application or what but it doesn't look good on this wood. It looked watery when I wiped it on and did not soak in like any of the videos I watched while researching.

Would pre-stain conditioner be absolutely necessary in this case?
Is there maybe a different color stain better suited to this type of wood?

And if your curious, I'm laser engraving a wooden ornament
>>
>>2881363
>Does anyone know what kind of wood is in the generic plywood Michaels sells?
I believe it is typically Baltic birch
>I tried staining some with Minwax Golden Pecan but it I don't know if its my application or what but it doesn't look good on this wood. It looked watery when I wiped it on and did not soak in like any of the videos I watched while researching.
It sort of looks like it may not be mixed well. Did you shake or stir the can?
>Would pre-stain conditioner be absolutely necessary in this case?
It can help but personally I'm not a huge fan. Another option to prevent uneven absorption is to put a clear coat on first as a sealer (so that nothing absorbs into the wood) and all the stain gets trapped between clear coats.
>Is there maybe a different color stain better suited to this type of wood?
Color is up to you. If it's lighter than what you want, you can keep adding coats. If it's too dark, try a different shade. You can also look into gel stains which go on thicker.
>>
>>2881363
>>2881373
The better option over stain is to use a dye like transtint and either directly soak it into the wood with a water or solvent base liquid, or just mix it directly into your finish as a toner.
>>
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>>2881373
Yeah I stirred it. It almost took the color better than my project...
>>
how do i not feel self conscious about woodworking at night
>>
i only use a smoothing plane for all my planing
>>
>>2881476
That's a question for a therapist, not 4chan.
>>
>>2881476
I don't understand. Are the fucking possums judging you?
>>
>>2881550
have you seen the asian guy doing a bandsaw review going don't turn on the machines after 9pm and be kind to your neighbours
>>
>>2881551
No, but also my neighbors are a crackhouse, a vacant lot, a drug dealer who's up till 4am anyway, a usually-empty AirBnB, and a nice Mexican family who I actually like but they're on the other side of my building and so have a lot of insulation from the machine noise.
>>
>>2881552
this is at your commercial workshop or your home?
>>
>>2881553
Home
>>
>>2881146
>Is it a good idea for me to do X? [I am not certain that it's even technically doable and if it is, what level of technical skill is necessary to pull it off.]
"If you're asking the question then [you clearly don't have the necessary skills to pull it off as if you did, asking the question would be moot, and therefore] the answer is no."
>>
>>2881563
damm bro
>>
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>>2881363
Ok I got a color I like and I tried out some wood conditioner (right half in pic). Despite sanding this side of the board has polka dots on it. I did not notice these before staining or while sanding, before I stain my project, is there a way to know I've sanded deep enough to get rid of these?
>>
>>2881680
Looks like feed roller marks.
Your best bet is to paint it.
>>
Just finished my built in bookshelf, but haven’t painted it yet. Is it worth spending the money to get a paint sprayer and do it myself or should I just hire a cabinet painter frame Facebook. Not sure how much it costs to have someone come out and do it.
>>
>>2881680
Not going to be easy, even if you get them 99% out you’ll still see them. The test is to put a tiny layer of stain on and sand until there is no more stain visible. But that still can be deceiving because sander pads are soft an reach into the holes if you push down hard
>>
>>2881552
>my neighbors are a crackhouse, a vacant lot, a drug dealer who's up till 4am anyway, a usually-empty AirBnB, and a nice Mexican family who I actually like
Is this a house or an apartment?
Shit apartments are great.
My small commie block goes like: 3 abandoned empty apartments, weed dealer, gypsies (2 apartments worth of them, one being a drug dealing place), old woman who is a complete whore so she's always at her boyfriend's or one of her lovers' house. Actually polite niggers, drunk nigger single mom who lost her kid to her own mother, negress who was sucking and fucking the gypsies for drugs so her husband left her with the kids, random white trash who bothers no one.
But all of them stop making noise at 22:00. So I usually only make noise up to 20:00-21:00. Still self-conscious about it, but hey, no one has complained yet and I only do it once or twice a week.
>>
>>2881730
It's a very small warehouse building. 2/3rds is a storage unit, and I'm the tenant of the other side and the only one who is regularly on the property. My area is half apartment and half workshop. It's cramped, but I have full use of the sizable patio and yard, along with permission to convert the little attic space above my apartment into another room when I get around to it.
>>
>>2881825
>>2881552
being away from prying eyes of society can be good thing for creativity
>>
>>2881881
Yeah if I end up having enough money to, I'm going to buy a plot of land on-premises at a nearby small airport and have a hangar/shop/home
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>>2881888
maybe you'll also build some wood ultralights and disrupt the airport traffic
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>>2881934
I already do that enough in the helicopter
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Thoughts on woodworking mommy?
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>>2881683
I love my $10 touch up harbor freight gun with regulator. Good paint is pricey. Prep, process, technique is important. It's always more user intensive to get any of the hvlp guns to cooperate. My other airless will shoot 10 gallons of primer on every wall in a house in about an hour, straight out of the bucket. Airless will always have more orange peel texture imo vs correctly using air. But if you're competing with professionals, there's a place for both.

>>2881680
You can try a polyshades or glazing. I doubt you have enough veneer to sand away the tooling marks. The color is suspended above the wood with these finishes unlike dyes and stains dependent on absorption.
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>>2881941
>ryobi
she can do better
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>>2881941
told you everyone and their mom is woodworking
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>>2881977
>told you everyone and their mom is woodworking
Lol you actually did tell me that.
>>
>>2881941
She does good work, shows mistakes and how to fix them, and has a lot of vids on how to do things like loose tenons with the tools you probably have rather than just buying something like a Domino.

Most of her recent vids have been on building her new shop out, but she's done some actual project stuff and has been integrating her new 3D printer into stuff as well, like making a portable track saw table with a 3D printed track hinge.
>>
I’ve been trying to work on wood inlays, but I’m worried about doing it on a finished piece since I could mess up the design. Can anyone recommend a decent epoxy from Amazon or a big box store that I can pick up in small amount for cheap? I’d like to have something on hand to fill in the design if I mess it up and can’t get a good fit
>deep pour?
>UV resistant?
And can I just get clear epoxy and buy some of the color pigment to mix in? Sorry for the noob question
>>
>>2881941
Who?
>>
>>2882106
"Cheap" doesn't really go with "deep pour epoxy." Rockler sells a 1.3qt kit for $45 from MAS, and $160 for 1.3 gallons, while Total Boat Fathom is $120 for 1.5G.

But yeah, they're always clear, and you can mix in pigments. Mica powders are common, there's also concentrated liquid dyes for it. Rockler has both.
>>
>>2882011
>it's not the tenon that is small but the mortise is too wide you fucking whore reeeeeeee
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>>2882164
Who took your candy bar, little girl?
>>
how do they make those mouldings with raised boxes
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>>2882170
Can you give an example?
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>>2882111
https://www.youtube.com/@3x3CustomTamar
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>>2882163
Good call, I just found out about rockler but didn’t think to check for epoxy there. I doubt I’ll be pouring much more than like 1/4” deep and 3”x3”-ish, so I probably don’t need super expensive stuff, I’m just worried the really cheap options won’t be able to get routed flat or sanded clear or something.
>>
>>2882225
Rockler and Woodcraft are both staffed by actual woodworkers, so they've probably got someone working there who has a good idea on the right stuff for inset/repair type work.
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>>2878961
Depends on the tool. Chisels made for timber framing can be huge, I have one as long as my forearm. For cabinetmakers they are very short, and for general carpenters they sit somewhere in between. The Japanese ones are even shorter because they sit on their work instead of working on a bench.

>>2879029
I remember people saying that Ethanol makes French polishing easier because it evaporates slower, and you couldn't find pure methanol back when it was the norm anyway.

>>2879142
Lighter but still strong enough if made right, not a heat conductor so it doesn't feel cold to the touch, soft enough that you can work it with basic handtools and get good results, literally grows on it's own so you could cut a tree in your backyard and make something with it.

>>2880151
>>2880156
You also need some diagonal bracing between the longer horizontal pieces and the feet. It will rock which will loosen the fasteners.

>>2880392
Cherry has some crazy drying tensions, especially lost to the center of the tree. I had big boards with a starting crack, and the crack moved 20 cm every time you hit the board.
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>bought a house recently
>traditional British terrace
>get excited about woodworking, decide to build most of my furniture myself
>75% of my work is remote so I fantasize about doing woodworking in the early afternoon when all my neighbours are at work so I don't bother anyone
>buy a fuckton of woodworking equipment in the first few weeks while I do basic stuff (ripping up carpets, getting asbestos removed, etc.)
>meet my neighbours during this
>mfw they're all pensioners and at home 24/7

I'm about to become the most hated cunt in my street when I actually start doing shit in 2025.
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>>2882329
>pensioners complaining about noises outside in the middle of the day
Why are old people either amazing generous souls… or miserable cunts with no in between? I was working on a door the other day, and the neighbor came out expecting me to immediately stop working forever because he thought my oscillating saw was too loud, idk how he even heard that inside his house unless he was just standing right at his door watching me (which also wouldn’t surprise me).
>>
Does anybody have experience with cordless random orbital sanders? Job I'm gonna be on soon could benefit from a cordless sander for some things....
>>
>>2882433
of all power tools, multitools are not even that loud or annoying relatively speaking... some people are just retards regardless of age.
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>>2882446
Are you already on a battery platform?
>>
can you do marquetry with laminate
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>>2874778
Looks like redwood or cypress. It isn't treated with anything, just leave it outside for a few years.
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>>2882469
yes but M18 sanders are garbage bulky pos, and the couple of M12 fuel detail sanders are cool but kind of niche and too small for what I need them for. Also somebody on the crew already has them and we all kind of borrow those small ones from him. I'm willing to go on a new platform even if it's just for the sander.
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>>2882492
DeWalt makes very good sanders for the price, about the only other option there is Bosch, and that isn't a great option for cordless in the States.
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>>2882493
I will check out the Dewalt and the Bosch options if I can find them around me. Thank you for the recommendation.
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I'm in Thailand and I want to bring back some good quality woodworking hand tools. Just visited a "Made in Thailand" expo and they had a lot of high quality carved wood pieces. I spoke with a the vendor of a stall and he said the only place to get professional wood carving tools was his shop in Chiang Mai (I call bullshit). Just visited the Sanctuary of Truth, which is a woodworking marvel. Anyone have any idea where I can buy the professional wood carving tools they use to do that stuff? Or perhaps other hand tools like hand saws, perhaps a bow saw? I would greatly appreciate the help. I'm going to be mostly in Bangkok, but I'm visiting Pattaya today and leaving tomorrow.
>>
>>2882446
I have a ryobi. It's ok for light work but predictably underpowered and you do need higher capacity batteries.
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>>2882329
>I'm about to become the most hated cunt in my street when I actually start doing shit in 2025.
Annoy the cunts into an early grave.
Win-win, country saves on pensions, you work free of being self-conscious about the noise.
>>
>>2882511
probably make their own or made by some small shops for other small shops old style
although they know you're only there to work ladyboy wood
>>
am i less of a woodworker if i'm using a low powered table saw for safety it does take me a while to rip a 4' piece
am i learning some bad habits like being too comfortable
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>>2882759
imo slow circular saws of any kind are often more dangerous (because of bad habits and complacency and getting bored with the rip) and also leave a shitty finish. Even a "slow" table saw is going to be 2500-3000 rpm, still more than enough to take a thumb or a hand off.
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>>2882769
yeah but talking about the power of motor here and higher rpms have less torque at given power
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>>2882773
my bad, I didn't read probably. desu no, I don't think a lower powered saw will teach you bad habits. a lot of us here learned on contractor portable table saws before moving onto bigger and better things, and a lot of what you learn translates to the bigger cabinet saws, whether 1.75hp 110v ones or 3-7hp 230v to 480v ones. In fact, you'll appreciate a lot of what you've been missing out on more and try to stay safer too.
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>>2882775
Jobsite saws aren't necessarily bad, either. If they can handle an 8" dado stack they should be plenty powerful. Skil makes a great budget model that has pretty similar features to the DeWalt more than twice its price, though you'll still get better overall experience with the DeWalt.
>>
Ever thought about making sex furniture?
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>>2882858
your workbench is the sex furniture with all the holes and protrusions
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>>2882858
Yes but not out of wood. Once I get the upstairs of my place built out, I'm going to make a self-bondage frame from 3030 or 4040 aluminum extrusion, for the sake of assembly ease and modularity.
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>>2882447
If I had to be generous, I was using my cheapy porter cable oscillating saw, which is VERY loud but only compared to other multitools. Not an excuse for his shitty behavior, but sometimes I do wonder why it vibrates so loudly compared to every other one I’ve used.
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>>2882492
>m18 sanders are bulky garbage POS
I can’t speak to how well it sands, but the one on sale at HD right now is def not bulky. Take a look at that one maybe it’s a newer model or something. I’m not a big fan of cordless for sanders in general, but depending on your scenario I could see how it may be worth it.
>m18 general bulkiness
This I agree with. I love certain tools on that line, but others are just stupid large like the planer. I’m tempted to get the m12 one just for the form factor
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>>2882983
I was just at an event the other day where they were demo'ing the latest red tools, and the newest 7 1/4" skilsaw is really nice by milwaukee but damn the battery they need on it to make it perform at its best is huge and heavy (M18 12.0 FORGE), I can't imagine it is all that practical compared to many similar options or even just using corded.
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>>2882982
Brushed motor, cheaped out on materials, no dampeners?
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>>2882982
multitools are one of those power tools where the pricing and quality REALLY reflects in the end product and ease of use. I went from an older (2010?) Dremel multitool to a milwaukee one and later one a more expensive makita starlock and recently a fein amm700, and the difference in noise, vibrations, power, etc. is just so massive.
>>
>>2882984
The double battery system seems kind of cool to me, did they show any of that stuff there? What did you think?. I’ve never seen it up close but I do think it’s a cool idea to use two “regular” batteries instead of having to buy and separately charge the 40v ones or whatever it is that some brands use.
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>>2882987
Which Milwaukee did you use? I like the lightness of the m12, but I hate the screw on/off design to change blades. Even the 40$ PC one I have just has a lever like the good dewalt ones.
>>
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>>2882989
The only dual battery tools they had on hand were yard and landscaping focused ones. I have to say, for such heavy tools with two massive 12.0ah batteries, they were very nicely balanced. I had no way of objectively measuring their performance of course, but they felt very powerful and seemingly good enough to replace gas powered ones for most people. I tried the trimmer, blower, and the big chainsaw, all with the dual battery (M18). They also had a big vacuum that was dual battery, seemed like a decent vacuum. But this saw is really what they were trying to sell people on the most, with massive discounts vs MSRP for the kit. It's a good saw, didn't seem to stall at all through anything or even lose much rpm with it had that big fuckyou battery on it, just don't know if it's good even for the discounted price though. I haven't seen any side by side comparisons or reviews on it either. Either way, they are really pushing into every field they can and releasing a lot of stuff, good for them. Just wish they'd bring back some of the production stateside.
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>>2882989
> double battery
What’s next, triple? quad? It’s getting silly.
I just really seems to me they’re selling batteries at this point.
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>>2883014
I mean yeah, in terms of the sales these tool companies have, the batteries have the highest margins.
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>>2882446
ended up buying the new bosch 18v sander (new to me anyway), thank you >>2882493 for bringing it to my attention, didn't even know it existed. Feels very much like a festool or mirka or an air pneumatic car body sander in the hands, albeit with the battery weighing it down the back. why can't they all look like that? the other option was the makita with the extended battery cord, and the new milwaukee which somehow wasn't in stock, but good design on the sample I held. will post pics later. I already had a fein ampshare multitool so the batteries apparently fit.
>>
>>2877551
I've ripped plenty of plywood for hole covers.
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>>2883029
>need more power for a larger tool
>buy All-New battery+ bigger batteries
Vs
>use your old batteries, just two at a time
One of those seems alot more consumer friendly than the other.
>>
>>2877535
is bosch gt254 as good as this
>>
is bosch gt254 as good as my homemade table saw which stalls on a 2x10
>>
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>>2883208
Looks like a jobsite saw with a crappy fixed base. You'd be better off with Skil's saw at that price range, that has a rack and pinion fence.
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>>2883246
The base comes off
I should pay 100 shekels more for a rack and pinion fence?
>>
imagine using a table saw with an ear rape universal motor
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>>2883264
It's a lot more precise and stays straight.

"The base comes off" is no excuse when similar saws have better folding stands.
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What’s the catch here? I know it’s single bevel, single hinge, but I’ve never known metabo to make absolute junk. I assume despite the on-the-face limitations it’s not a bad saw? Or is that prob wrong?
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>>2883207
i really like the rack and pinion for the fence and the blade adjustment for getting it square to the miter slots. i don't like the actual fence though, being thin aluminum it's easy to find peaks and valleys in the wall with a miter slot gauge but i haven't noticed any actual effect on cut quality. the paint also scratches fairly easily on the surface so don't use it for assembling things. overall though it's a great value
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>>2883349
i've got the 12" compound miter saw from metabo, love that thing
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>>2883351
Does yours have the sliding action? I’m comparing this one to a kobalt one with a smaller blade but has the slide so it can do up to a 2x8”
>>
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>>2883355
yeah it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R81WR89, got it for $275 before they updated to the latest version that's now like $350. still using the 60T blade it came with too
>>
bros i found the modern incarnation of the beast of a combo machine woodgears dad had in his shop
its the hammer c3 41
this is the tool for the big boyos esp now that every roastie owns multiple plastic portable machines
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>>2883208
For that price range you could get one with a worm drive. Idk what kind of wood you’re cutting but it might be something to think about.
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>>2883518
probably not but who cares i don't deserve nice things
>>
is stain supposed to leak out of wood in high humidity
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>>2874363
>how much does a 16mm hole weaken a < inch and half octagonal pine leg
about half avarage american or 1/32 basketball field
>>
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>>
>>
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have a productive new ear my woodcels !
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>>2885016
Are these your work? If so, insanely cool.
>>
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>>2885074
yes, thank you sar !
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>>2885191
>yes, thank you sar !
Diffrent anon, saar.
Hello saar, hou do u make beautiful carving, saar?
No, being a bit more serious, how the hell do you make these? Hammer and chisel? Router? CNC? All of the above and some more?
I've always been curious about it since I was a kid, but since I know I wouldn't have the talent and skill necessary I never looked into it to save me from the frustration.
>>
>>2885242
thanks! first cut those holes with a jigsaw around the drawing.
then scoop the inside of the shapes with a couple of concave chisels.
then round the exterior radius with a flat (or preferably convex chisel)
the ones that don't have holes around are surrounded by a flat plane done with a router
then the holes must be smoothed over because they have a nasty jigsaw shred on the inside. for this use a semicircular file with sandpaper wrapped around it
the back face might have nasty jigsaw splits and those i smooth over with a sandpaper disk on the grinder.
the planing, table saw cutting, lacquer is done by another guy, i don't have workshop tools.
>>
>>2885254
Maybe consider using a finer-cutting jigsaw blade?
>>
>>2885370
no, they are slow, i use the big toothed ones to do it fast
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>>2885449
Is it really faster if you're spending a lot of time cleaning up the tearout, though?
>>
Got a fucking n5 plane second hand for cheap and the fucking y yoke adjuster thing came fisured and broke in several places.
Shitiest cast i ever seen
I will first try gluing it with epoxy and adding some metal sheet as reinforcement, but i will need to get some brass and make a new one to fit with the jigsaw and a file
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>got into gardening
>planters fucking expensive
>had lumber lying around
>build my own planters
>meme myself into woodworking
>learn how cedar is best for outdoor applications
>go on offerup, find 2 people selling big bundles of cedar
>1 bundle is a bunch of planks and boards of eastern cedar from 1994
>other bundle is of cedar plywood 4x8 panels from 1993 i think (here's the label)
>now I have a big bunch of aged red cedar and very amateur woodworking experience
My only plans really were to build a few 2'x3' planter boxes for growing vegetables. Besides the formaldehyde in the plywood, is anything else I should know that might kill me or my dogs about this wood? Also, I genuinely have no clue what to do with the plywood panels besides some outdoor storage cabinets for my shed. The guy just gave me all of the panels for stupid cheap. Anyone got any ideas? They apparently were from an old humidor for a tobacco shop. Given me a few ideas to perhaps use them for my own humidor for my gardening/farming needs. Not sure though, and definitely am not educated enough on cedar or woodworking.
>>
>>2885745
The plywood is only cedar veneered. Even if it were cedar all the way through I wouldn't use it in an exposed outdoor area, regardless of concerns about toxins in the glue.
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>>2885745
throw the plywood and wear a mask when cutting cedar planks, hopefully you didn't pay for it
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>>2885745
Cedar veneered ply makes beautiful easy cabinets if you get some additional veneer for the ends. Don’t use it in your garden
>>
>>2885633
Go to your local merchant hall or whatever you have and you can probably find a destroyed plane for a few dollars you can use for parts. Probably doesn't even need to be anything similar to what you have. They use a ton of almost identical parts.
>>
Made a cabinet from all scraps. Fits nicely, the torsion boxes from leftover OSB and old bed slats are hella strong



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