I have hydraulic rim brakes, magura HS33. Letting the local bike shop bleed it costs more than a new bike, lol.If I wanted to do it myself, which kit do I need? It seems there are two ways of bleeding:- attaching a full syringe to the handle and let vacuum suck the bubbles out and replace it with the oil- attaching an empty syringe to the handle and a full syringe to the brakes and push the new liquid from the bottom to the topI haven"t maintained the bike for 10 years. Which method should I use? Would this bleed kit be enough for either of them? https://www.ebay.de/itm/132920458124As you can see it also has a syringe with rubber inside so I think it is meant for the vacuum method. For the push-from-bottom-to-top method, I am not sure if there should be additional adapters.
actually AI gave me a response to this question already, can you confirm this is correct?>Both methods you described for bleeding your brakes are possible:>Gravity bleed (letting the bubbles rise out): This is the easier method and is generally recommended for beginners. It involves attaching a reservoir of new fluid to the caliper (bleed screw) and letting the old fluid, with any air bubbles, drip out of the lever bleed screw by gravity.>Reverse bleed (pushing new fluid through): This method involves forcing new fluid through the system from the lever to the caliper, pushing out the old fluid and any air bubbles. This method can be slightly more difficult as it requires more force and can be messier if not done carefully.>Since you haven't maintained your bike for 10 years, either method would likely work to flush out the old, potentially contaminated brake fluid. However, a gravity bleed is generally considered easier for beginners.
>>2875886Just watch a YouTube video on it, GMBN did a decent one regarding Magura brakes iirc. It's pretty easy too, I've done it on my Shimano brakes a handful of times.Connect syringe (fully plunged so you can pull fluid into it) to hose, connect that hose to the calliper drain and open the calliper bleed screw. With the hose and syringe attached to the calliper, unlock the lever bleed screw and pull the syringe to suck all the brake fluid into the syringe. Once you're done you'll have an empty brake line, bleed half complete. Then to do a reverse bleed, remove the plunger from an empty syringe screw the metal barb onto the syringe, this then gets screwed onto the brake lever like in your picture. Grab a 2nd syringe and attach a bit of hose to it, then fill it up with brake fluid. Attach the other end of the hose to your brake calliper and begin pushing fluid into the calliper, go slow otherwise you might pop the hose off. Once the syringe body attached to the lever begins to fill your brake lines are full, bleed done. Close the bleed screw on the calliper and remove the hose, then close the bleed screw on your lever. Put the plunger back into the syringe on your lever and unscrew it, be carful of leaking fluid.As a note, be careful with the brake fluid, if it touches your brake pads you'll have to buy new ones as the fluid contaminates the pads and makes them ineffective. Also, don't pull the lever while there's no disc or pad spacer in the calliper, that'll pop the pistons out of the calliper
>>2875886Also the kit you posted look fine, the 3rd image is showing you what a reverse bleed looks like. Take it slow and you'll do it no problem
>>2875902>>2875899ok, thanks. So you are telling me I need to do both methods? Why is that, I thought all the bubbles from the brakes will go up to the handle and I can just suck them out, why do I need the reverse bleed as well?Also, does the syringe really go directly into the handle without any rubber or adapter in between? I see no such part in the kit.
>>2875886>vacuumI'm not sure you understand what pulling a vacuum means.
>>2875886Its easy, just watch some vids and take your time. Be sure to remove the brake pads and put in the yellow spacer so you do not get the oil on the pads.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMRk916qJTg&t=57sIf your bike is old you may need new seals or hoses. I had trouble with MT3s they always leaked and I replaced them with MT5s an after bleeding never had a problem again.
>>2877514also, I never bothered drilling a hole in the syringe, I just took the plunger out of the top one and used the body as a reservoir, and pushed the oil up from the caliper and if I wanted pulled the oil back down with the syringe from the caliper. When you are done you do not need the top syringe body full of fluid and just pull up slowly and slip your finger under the tip. Also, place a drop or two of fluid in the top before your put the fill screw back in. Use a rag beneath and around in case you spill a little. Just repeat if the brakes are spongy. Important to have the fluids and parts and know how in case you are riding somewhere and have an issue. I used to drive to an MTB park and very few people had MIgura brakes and none of the bike shops there could do it. I ended up having lots of spare parts and after some practice I never needed a bike shop again.
>>2875886>hydraulic rim brakeswhat do those do degrade your rims at ultra fast speed? i heard a hydraulic setup can literally crush a rim why not give that system it's own brake surface to go full nignog on
>>2875886>hydraulic rim brakesjesus christsee >>2875902, but instead of a syringe there's probably a kit with one syringe and a funnel you can attach. having it open to air at the exit is much easier, and the bleed screw won't leave air pockets if you pay any attention at all to what you're doing.
