[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: pics-074-007.jpg (64 KB, 600x799)
64 KB
64 KB JPG
/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

Use this thread to ask questions you think don't require a thread of their own.

The old thread no longer bumps and is on page 6 now: >>2868928

If you didn't get a response in the old thread, feel free to ask again here.
>>
File: 1732853528353094.jpg (365 KB, 1080x1440)
365 KB
365 KB JPG
from prev thread.

Many corners in my house show a significant cold spot.
Is this normal? I assume the corners joints are not an insulated area and that with slat construction, the boards are going to be cold.
>>
File: 1394223042412.jpg (41 KB, 351x359)
41 KB
41 KB JPG
My sink drains really slowly. Hair and soap-scum I suspect.
I thought pouring boiling water down it would help but it somehow just made it worse.
I have a pint of "professional use only" 95% sulfuric acid drain cleaner.
I'm obviously not a professional.
Is it alright to just dump that acid down there?
Someone already burned out the mechanism for the pop-up sink plug, presumably using sulfuric acid.
Just worried it might eat the pvp pipes or fittings or whatever.
>>
>>2876449
could be old insulation has fallen down/compressed.

is that your picture? what camera do you have? been looking at getting one myself so I can fix cold spots too
>>
>>2876491
>I thought pouring boiling water down it would help
have you tried to clean a greasy pan with just hot water? no you use soap and mechanical action, same concept as to why this is a stupid idea
>is it already to pour drain cleaner down a drain?
this meme needs to die
yes, just follow the directions and don't get any on you or your cloths
>>
>>2876491
Get a cheap plastic hair snake extractor before you burning holes through your pipes with acid. If it's just hair then it's stupid to not try and pull it out first.
>>
How do I know what size holes I can carve into a brick wall with threatening its structure?
>>
Just started renting a house that was a total clusterfuck. Renting company didn't clean shit, didn't check that anything was working.

Discovered when it got cold that the thermostat didn't work to activate the heater or the air conditioning (I've been heating rooms with two space heaters which has been surprisingly not that expensive going by my first bill, though I've just added a third)

Contacts from the thermostat to the wires and the wires themselves all look A-OK from looking at the thermostat manual.

However, it looks like the furnace is in the attic because I've checked everywhere else, including the crawlspace. It's gas, and I have gotten a very very small gas bill, which I assume is keeping the pilot light going?

I have to get up in the attic now, which will require me to purchase a ladder, but it's weird to me that the AC also doesn't seem to talk with the thermostat. The AC unit is outside the house.

Is it possible that there's something on just the furnace that's fucked or needs switched on, or does it sound like the whole wiring system is fucked, since the AC also doesn't work?

I'd just call the rental company, but I don't want people tromping around on my clean floors with their boots on and I figure I should probably learn to deal with this myself anyway since I'm looking at buying in a year or two.
>>
>>2876545

>AC doesn't work
>furnace doesn't work
>small gas bill

Check breakers first
Buy a cheap meter and check for 24vac at the thermostat.

The small gas bill could be for a water heater.
No AC and no furnace could be a heat-pump problem.
If the furnace is in the attic, there is probably an attic access with pull-down ladder.

You need to check with who you're renting from to find out more before you try to 'fix' it.
>>
>>2876559
Gotcha. I can borrow a meter off of someone at work.
Breakers are also in the attic, so I'll check. Water heater does work, so maybe it's that, but we're talking single digit dollars of gas bill.

I'll do some googling on heat pump and if it does look too complicated, I'll check in with them. Worst case scenario, I'll ask the maintenance guy to show me what the problem was and how to fix it so I can learn a little.

Thanks anon.
>>
Any good youtube channel to get started with diy stuff? A place to learn tools, hardware that kind of stuff. A channel for people that didn't have dads growing up if you want
>>
>>2876576
Proper DIY
On the Trowel
>>
>>2876544
non-load bearing: 60%
load bearing 20%
>>2876545
>(I've been heating rooms with two space heaters which has been surprisingly not that expensive going by my first bill, though I've just added a third
localized space heaters are infinitely cheaper than central heating...
generally when renting there's clauses in the agreement that will hold you accountable for problems if you attempt to fix them
>>
what air compressor should i get for my car tires? want something cheap thatll save me having to do it at the gas station, if it pays for itself after enough uses thats just a bonus (07 camry if it matters)
>>
File: 1732970538748722.png (621 KB, 1448x785)
621 KB
621 KB PNG
>>2876876
the cheap husky inflator I used A LOT for plumbing and gas tests, quite reliable
eventually I got the ryobi battery compressor and I love it, also use it for cleaning PC and my nail gun
>>
File: 1709620538829045.jpg (494 KB, 1280x1440)
494 KB
494 KB JPG
I want to repaint my old black grill, what sanding sponge level should i use?
>>
>>2876902
120
>>
>>2876545
>Just started renting
DONT
FUCK
WITH
OTHER
PEOPLE'S
PROPERTY

why even bother fucking renting if you're going to disregard the only actual benefit of renting?
>>
File: 1732853599416995.jpg (943 KB, 1080x1440)
943 KB
943 KB JPG
I'm looking for recommendations on two things:

I'm ISO a cheaper but ok thermal imaging camera (pic stolen from last thread) and does anyone have rec for some really good sticky tape? Better than duct tape; is flex tape any good?
>>
>>2876449
following. Also I stole your pic. Are you happy with your Thermal camera?
>>
>>2876545
Rental agencies often disable the ac or heater depending on season and also clean/service them when they sendntge guy out to turn them on


They might have forgotten to turn yours on. Or you're using the wrong thermostat
>>
I have a Logic 30 combi boiler,. Recently it's stopped giving me hot water when the radiators are not turned on, the burner light just goes off. If the radiators are on everything's more or less fine, but without turning them on there's no hot water from the taps.
What can I try to fix this?
>>
File: pump_it.jpg (47 KB, 800x800)
47 KB
47 KB JPG
>>2876491
>>
The jet flame on my furnace keeps going out. It's not the flame sensor. Also if I shut it off and on again it works every time, for now anyway.
Anyone know what it probably is from this?
>>
>>2876491
look up quick zip drain zips those things are the fucking goat
>>
>>2877201
>It's not the flame sensor.
bet?
>>
>>2877205
I replaced it already.
>>
Combi boiler on the fritz. It heats water to about 40C, then cuts off. Internal temp sensor reads 80C, boiler is ticking over doing seemingly nothing (maybe trying to reduce temp), after leaving it off for half an hour it drops down to 70C, still ticking over. Heating doesn't seem to work, but that might be due to the thermal cut-off.

Current thoughts are a faulty temperature sensor in the heating chamber, but it dropped so maybe not, or an air bubble in there preventing the heat from escaping? Hard to understand.
>>
>>2877344
If you think there could be an air bubble, find out how to bleed it. I don’t know shit about boilers since I’m in Florida, but air bubbles in a liquid system like that will cause crazy readings if there’s a bubble around a temp sensor or thermostat.
>>
I have a small electric motor that's seizing up and it won't start at a relatively high ambient air temperature of roughly ~60*F. Motor runs fine when brought to a higher temperature, so I've been having to hit it with a heat gun everytime I want to use the device. What is wrong with this motor?
>>
>>2876379
Opened up a wall to deal with an issue. Found out that previous idiot that owned this house installed the window using rotted lumber from a barn or some shit. Jack studs/header need to be replaced. Don't have a nail gun. Busted my hammer swinging arm. Is it a bad idea to just use screws for this?
>>
>>2877356
Lmao I just tried looking that up for shits and giggles. Isn't it just lovely how if you google any DIY question you always only get some air written bullet point article that uses 5000 words to say precisely nothing?
>>
>>2877367
>ai
phone posting L
>>
>>2877367
That's why I'm asking here. My buddy thinks the motor has some sub standard bearing lube that's turning solid or gelling up. I want a second opinion before I try a repair
>>
>>2877371
Either that or small tolerances and cheap metal. Lube freezing would make more sense but at 60* idk unless they used frigging coconut oil.
>>
>>2877365
i don't think it's ever a bad idea to use screws in place of nails
nails are just used for cost/speed
>>
>>2877365
GRK #10, 3inch or longer framing screws are better than nails in the scenario you are talking about. Screws are much more expensive than nails, but if you already got a drill and an impact driver, and it's a small repair, screws make way more sense than nails and hammer or even framing nail gun that you don't already own.
>>
>>2877401
>>2877405
Thanks.
>>
>>2877367
Internet is dead. Tine to return to library
>>
>>2877356
>What is wrong with this motor?

the lubricant has turned to 'gum'
lube the bearings with light machine oil
>>
File: rustypos.jpg (434 KB, 2000x1012)
434 KB
434 KB JPG
Anons who twist fat nuts all day: I have this radiator and need to remove the rusted in 1&3/8" bushings. I'm going to rent an impact. Would a 3/4" crack them off or do I need to lay more down on a 1"? I don't want to waste my time.
>>
I live in a mobile home and my septic tank and a cleanout (pic rel) is right next to my bathroom. Lately I've noticed that I'm smelling a stink in the sink and bathtub. Could this be gas coming back in? It's not a shit smell, but similar. What do about it?
>>
>>2877555
forgot pic
>>
>>2877555
You should check if your P traps have dried out, but it might just be crap stuck in the pipes.
>>
There’s a draft coming from here. What’s a non ugly way to close it off? The gap is not consistent in size
>>
Update on that electric motor. It was indeed a bad lube issue and is now fixed. Thanks anons
>>
>>2877565
Filler and then repaint? If it's a big gap you could expanding foam it first, then cut it flush, filler and paint.
>>
>>2877554
>rent an impact
penetrating oil
six point socket
breaker bar
~some heat if needed
>>
>>2877562
I didn't think of that. I've checked the one under the sink before. I only use it to brush my teeth so it doesn't get much use, but I shower every day. Never thought to check under the tub. thanks!!
>>
>>2877572
It’s about 12 meters (36’) in total. I’m a bit wary of using expanding foam because it’s just been painted. Do they sell pur foam that doesn’t expand like 20 times? Or some other filler that is bigger than caulk but smaller than foam
>>
I need to make something very similar to this in order to turn my cellar into a crawlspace. It currently has tiles, 1.2ft high, well ventilated and dry

Do I need the small brick wall or can I just put the wood on the floor? And would I need to remove the tiles? I could technically go without the whole support thing (it’s a 2ft span) but I don’t want it to squeak and can’t use 2x8s because it would make the crawlspace too low
>>
Bought a real old house (in Scotland) what options do I have for fitting insulation on the underside of the floorboards
>>
>>2877636
I'm confused about what you're trying to do. In my mind a cellar is deeper and more accessible than a crawl space so I'm not sure what you're changing. Are you trying to deepen a space that is really shallow so you have more room to work on stuff? In any case, if the floor is currently supported I don't think you'd need to add additional bracing unless you were digging out the footers, but if you do add support you never want wood touching the dirt or even low enough that even intermittent puddling could touch it. Both would start rot and direct dirt contact can invite termites.
>>
>>2876449
Nothing you can do about it. Negative energy is attracted to 90 degree angles.

>>2876491
Sodium hydroxide 99.9% pure won’t disappoint,Only melts aluminum materials and flesh.

>>2877675
What’s under the floor? Can you access it? Do you live in a cottage with a thatched roof?
>>
>>2877684
It's a large house, normal modern(ish) roof. I have access under the floor, itsy just the underside of the floorboards
>>
Building a self contained resin printing station for my home office. Including an IPA washing station. Need a pump that can handle pumping IPA, might just make a peristaltic myself if I have to. Could a standard aquarium or fountain pump survive?
>>
>>2876379
I have a stupid question for /sqtddtot/.
Have any of you guys ever made your own orthotics? seems like they're simple enough shapes.
>>
>>2877695
IPA is explosive and will evaporate like crazy
>>
File: 1727115329527601.png (912 KB, 2000x2000)
912 KB
912 KB PNG
Didn't see a dedicated pack out thread but figured this was close enough.

Long story short, new job assembling 98% of the time bikes from kiddie snap togethers to $400 mmountain bikes. This is a traveling job that is being outsourced almost exclusively at walmarts. So all work is done indoors, no rough terrain. I don't need a shit load of tools but I do need to be able to fit about 4-5 impacts and a bunch of wrench sized specality tools and general wrench and deep wall socket sets. From my SUV I have to move a 40lb bike rack, 6ft folding table, 2 gallon air compressor, and my tools. Typically in a shopping cart so I am going to have to lift this thing in and out of a cart.

I do not have a done of cash and I have to buy a bunch of these tool to be able to handle all orders or I have to decline a bunch of work since I'm lacking equipment. All I know if my oversized tool bag is just really a pain in the tits to transport all these items. I can make it work but it is messy and disorganized.

To the point of this rambling of a post. Given the low pimact nature of the job, working indoors, and the importantance of mobility and weight. What are your thoughts on the HART pack out system? They got the 3 piece deep tool, medium tool, and see through organizer on sale for $74 at walmart right now.
>>
>>2877733
I bought this cause I love seeing everyone else with packouts but fuck all if i'm paying the prices
I have zero regrets, even bought some extra divider sections
for reference I work in newconstruction and roll it through mud, stand on it, etc. has held up perfectly fine. even throughly water resistant

that bottom container will hold a circ saw, drill, impact, grinder, pex gun, and still bunch of loose space for screwdrivers, pliers, pry bars
i just removed the second container since the bottom is big enough most of the time, has a handle and works as a stand alone tool box that i currently use for ammo/pistol storage when going to a range. quite sturdy
i don't use the 'half dividers,' they're just too small for my purposes. got 4 big dividers on top for screws, fittings, etc. they come apart, lock, are sturdy

total steal compared to husky/dewalt/milwaukee
it's insane how much they charge for molded plastic
>>
>>2877741
and for the record i have all milwaukee tools, with some ryobi one+ rare-use tools that are way too expensive milwaukee
i don't cheap out on supplies, this is the only hart thing i own
doesn't give me any confidence on their power tools, it's just molded plastic

oh and i'm sure it's true for the other brands, but idk... taking out single containers from the dividers to throw in a small tool bag for little jobs.... they stack and are flat/stable
really don't know what the hell I did before
>>
>>2877741
Well fren you sold me. Worse comes to worse it is $74 out of my pocket now and I have 90 days to return it for a full refund. Wally world will take nearly anything back. By then I be far more financially secure and who knows? Maybe I just like the damn thing and it's smaller form factor for my lighter duty work I am buying it for. I'm going to grab one before work starts tomorrow at the same location. Is there any assembly or does it just come ready to rock?
>>
File: 1728498702168419.webm (2 MB, 720x720)
2 MB
2 MB WEBM
>>2877752
>ready to rock
>>
File: 1721938472155641.gif (463 KB, 450x660)
463 KB
463 KB GIF
>>2877755
Well that's fine. My job is literally titled Assembler. I'm suss it out.
>>
>>2877613
Depends on where you live, but you want to use one of Durabond 90 or Concrete Fill or similar product, which are essentially nearly pure plaster hot mud, mix it, fill, clean flush with knife. Allow it to dry. Then a layer of joint compound drywall mud or topping mud, and prime, seal, paint over it. This should have been taken care of before painting.
>>
>>2877677
Sorry I should have specified. In the past cellars in my country were built about a foot into the ground, and the room above was raised 2ft and accessed with a small set of stairs. Pic rel is very similar to what I have. I want to make it just one room level with the rest of the house.

People do either this (wood construction that turns cellar into crawlspace) or fill the cellar with concrete and I’m still in doubt which road to go
>>
>>2877758
Wow she's beautiful
>>
>>2877819
https://youtu.be/kg6woZULFeM?si=P5djrIw6BEFPFrCF

Build a tiny remote controlled forklift and use it to store shit
>>
>>2877730
Yes thank you I know how IPA works. It's already a part of my workflow. I just need an IPA wash station to improve my efficiency.
>>
File: IMG_6873.jpg (2.88 MB, 4032x3024)
2.88 MB
2.88 MB JPG
What’s the best way to move this box down without destroying it? Do I need to cut more drywall above it to get to the top nail and just pry from the left side?
>>
>>2877884
>What’s the best way

best way is to stop being a pussy about electricity, and unscrewing some of those switches
then you can see exactly what's holding it and act accordingly
(why ask us? we cant see anything, and there are no standards for driving nails and screws)
>>
File: IMG_20241205_134545.jpg (400 KB, 2000x1506)
400 KB
400 KB JPG
What is this piece of glass intended to be used for? Why does it have rounded corners and why is there a black grid over it? What is the purpose of the black grid?
>>
>>2877903
cutting board?
>>
File: 1733425064546574.jpg (158 KB, 1000x750)
158 KB
158 KB JPG
>>2877884
slide a hacksaw blade in the gap and cut the hidden nail off
remove the exposed nail
slide the box to the right and remove the cut-off nail
re-attach by means of your choice
>>
>>2877901
Nails aren't inside the box, that would be retarded.

>>2877884
Before you go further, what makes you think you have slack enough in the wire above the box to lower it? I've seen some tight ass runs. You might be able to pry it loose without cutting out more drywall if you remove the switches and push the right side of the box further into the hole then pry against the left. But, you're going to have to patch above the box anyway so you might as well cut out a little more and give yourself some room.
>>
>>2877906
Possibly, but it lacks feet like most glass cutting boards have, and it doesn't look like any glass cutting board I've ever seen. It's almost 2 ft x 3 ft so it seems a bit large for a cutting board. Also I've never seen a cutting board with a grid pattern, and I've never heard of this emu brand at all
>>
>>2877903
I've been all over amazon searching for that but have had 0 luck
>>
File: 1723553168521938.png (1.83 MB, 1080x832)
1.83 MB
1.83 MB PNG
>>2877955
why do you care
>>
>>2877685
If the floor joists are wood and 16" on center like in US, standard wall insulation is made to fill this gap and would work for floors too
In Scotland, there is most likely a 1:1 insulating standard like what I described
Otherwise there's spray-foam insulation. A picture of the underside might help
>>
>>2877957
just trying to solve the guy's question. Love the Ostrich!
>>
File: 1717770679039547.png (591 KB, 736x950)
591 KB
591 KB PNG
>>2877963
>>2877903
oh i meant why does the original question asker care lmao
i was also searching emu cutting board

glass cutting boards are ass, i'd just throw it away if it's some scrap you found in your house
>>
>>2877903
https://emuamericas.com/
Emu is an Italian exterior furniture business. It could be a tabletop?
>>
Last week I used this fireplace and there was a proper draft. This week it's blowing cold air into the house.
How do I reverse the draft?
>>
>>2877970
put a fire in it or close the chimney?
>>
File: PXL_20241206_012403828.jpg (1.29 MB, 1635x4080)
1.29 MB
1.29 MB JPG
>>2877971
I had to open some windows, now there is a proper draft
>>
>>2877903
>What is this piece of glass intended to be used for?
refrigerator shelf?
>>2877903
>Why does it have rounded corners
safety
>>2877903
>why is there a black grid over it? What is the purpose of the black grid?
decoration
>>
>>2877973
terrible design, now you're pulling in cold dry air and then heating it, further drying it out

should have have a cold air intake, then no cold air is pulled in except for what fuels the fire
>>
File: 1717038329834556.jpg (168 KB, 1033x679)
168 KB
168 KB JPG
>>2877741
Picked it up this morning and stuffed everything inside. Incredibly happy with the purchase. Perfect for my needs. My work area is sometimes in the backrooms with all the inventory and lots of card board boxes sticking out everywhere. This smaller pack out with smoother form gets through it all without catching and is lightweight with good handle placement for hoisting up and down. Next trick is finding a hot dog compressor small enough to fit in the bottom bay. Only complaint is they don't have a triple sliding drawer module.
>>
File: 1720952697118079.png (240 KB, 1335x430)
240 KB
240 KB PNG
>>2877983
they got the double drawer
they don't seem space efficient to me, i like the buckets
but alas, glad you're happy with the purchase!
i've tried to tell a bunch of guys in the field and they're all too scared to have a hart product lmao
as far as compressors go, i think I already posted in this thread about them....
plug in, husky brand is tiny and relliable
battery, the ryobi one+ is great but 200$ (on the cheap end of battery hot dogs)
though i was just googling an supposedly you can get it for 121$ on aliexpress and still be ryobi one+
which i guess makes sense since it's all made in china now but fuck. hundred dollar markup from ali to home depot for SAME PRODUCT
western society doesn't have much longer
>>
File: 1705485826483990.png (2.65 MB, 1862x973)
2.65 MB
2.65 MB PNG
I'm repainting my 96 nissan, I just finished sanding the fuck out of it, got a tarp over it to protect form morning dew->more rust
i was going to paint roller rustoleum on it, did a bunch of research and study before I got started with sanding
BUT THEN
my dad comes in with, 'hey here's a paint sprayer and HEY HERE'S SOME 1000$/gal AIRPLANE PAINT'
so obviously i'm now going to use the sprayer and the airplane paint, but i'm immensely intimidated because it's not what I prepared for...
going to the depot tomorrow to get spirits, tack cloth, clear coat for after
i've got all the buffer pads, etc

advice on paint sprayers, airplane paint... uh idk
also i'm, planning to do a spray on bed liner after, recommendations?
>>
>>2877983
>>2877988
I just told my mom to get me this thing for Xmas, the 3pc base and the double drawer. I’m thinking I’ll snag a handful of the small parts organizers and use those for random anchors and BS I have around the garage and can stack em on the roller for whatever jobs I might need it for. The basket for the top looks useful too, and since they’re not $100 Packout attachments, I don’t care if it doesn’t suit my needs perfectly. Man I like the looks of a Packout socket set tho

>tfw your mother is pushing 70 and still wants to buy her kids gifts like they’re coming from Santa
If I don’t tell her to get me something useful, she will spend too much on some shit I don’t need. She tried to buy me Airpods like 3 years in a row and I had to stop her because 100% guarantee one of them falls from my ear and gets crushed within a month.
>>
File: lectrical box.jpg (189 KB, 800x1097)
189 KB
189 KB JPG
>>2877930
>Nails aren't inside the box, that would be retarded.

around here, screws and nails are almost always accessible from inside electrical box
lets you replace the box without having to do plaster work
>>
>>2877983
Have you seen the new DeWalt XL one? Those things are real nice. I was playing around with one and thought to myself i would rather have one of those than a tool cart some days. But then I realized if I ever loaded that thing with the wrenches and sockets in my cart, it would be impossible to get it in the bed of a truck without some assistance.
>>
>>2877992
Based dad coming in clutch with the several thousand dollar can of aircraft grade paint that functionals the same as normal paint. Funny shit make sure you use it well.
>>
File: IMG_6875.jpg (2.88 MB, 4032x3024)
2.88 MB
2.88 MB JPG
>>2877917
Thanks that’s what I ended up doing but >>2877930 you were right. No slack at all. I had to move it up. I’m not even going to patch this giant hole I have now. The next guy can do that when he rips my work out
>>
File: IMG_20241206_191419.jpg (3.46 MB, 3072x4080)
3.46 MB
3.46 MB JPG
How do I remove this stripped and rusted screw from my car? I've tried lots of things, the last one being trying to cut it with a dremel so I can get it out with a flathead. But battery dremel isnt just powerful enough.
I can't get powerful tools to the car because there is no electrical socket in the -2 floor garage.
Thanks in advance.
>>
>>2876982
its very finicky, freezes constantly, has low fps, and tops out at 150c
great for quick looks around the house, and some automotive stuff. the 150c is very limiting when diagnosing brake issues.
its fine for a few quick uses, but i would not recommend it for any serious work
>>
>>2877976
maybe. idk. i only had to open the windows for a few minutes to reverse the draft.
>>
File: 1706158344476215.png (1.65 MB, 1120x1440)
1.65 MB
1.65 MB PNG
>>2876379
I have a AC ventilation fan, a little noisy. Can I simply use a diode in live with live to cut the AC sine in half to reduce it's speed?
>>
>>2877973
Usually ypu need to warm up the chimney first like a rolled up newspaper shoved way up there so ot has to go up
>>
>>2878192
Chisel and hammer. Hit it at an angle so the chisel bites.
>>
>>2878192
Is it a phillips screw?

You can continue with the dremel or use a chisel like other anon said. For the future, picrel has been pretty good to me so far. They’re manual impact drivers. The big ones come with like PH3+ bits and often have a 3/8” or 1/2” square to put sockets in it and those are lifesavers for brake rotors on Hondas and BMWs and stuff that are held on by those little phillips or hex screws. The smaller one is a 1/4” drive version that takes any regular screwdriver bit. You whack the rear of it with a hammer and rotates and tries to shake loose rusted screws. And since you’re hammering the back of it, the phillips bits won’t cam out of the screw. The 1/4” one I bought even has the spiral extractors if the screw/bolt is broken or completely rekt and a bit won’t fit in.

You can often find them at auto parts stores or Amazon, the big ones are like $20-$30 and the small ones are $15-$20. I’ve seen the big ones at Lowe’s, Advance Auto, AutoZone, but the only place I have seen the smaller 1/4” version outside of the internet is AutoZone.
>>
My furnace has an old-style screw-in fuse attached to the switch and I want to replace it with a outlet/switch combo thing so I can have a working pump instead of just dripping water on the floor.
Do I need a screw-in fuse for that or is that something that's been fazed out? Like if I just got a combo terminal and a volt detector on Amazon would I be good?
>>
File: IMG_20241118_172438_414.jpg (2.04 MB, 4000x3000)
2.04 MB
2.04 MB JPG
what's this used for
just a transformer with a light bulb socket
>>
File: 2024-12-07_08-58-33.jpg (2.62 MB, 3000x4000)
2.62 MB
2.62 MB JPG
what's this part of this yugoslavian construction winch
i'm guessing some kind of relay that stops electric motor when the winch is overloaded?
>>
File: IMG_20241121_121609_208.jpg (3.65 MB, 4000x3000)
3.65 MB
3.65 MB JPG
>>2878301
>>
>>2878233
>simply use a diode in live with live to cut the AC sine in half

motors have all kinds of quirks, but there's little chance this'll work: it prob wont spin at all
if you have an old light dimmer, it may work, like 50%, but most likely it'll make extra noise
only real way is with a fan controller, for about $30
>>
>>2878257

your post is a lot of gibberish
i doubt anyone can figure it out enough to answer
>>
>>2878300
>what's this used for

prob coz they wanted to use a small 12V bulb
notice how lamp shade is smallish
>>
File: s-l400.jpg (43 KB, 300x400)
43 KB
43 KB JPG
>>2878323
It's a switch like this. I want to replace it with a switch with an outlet on it. Can I do so without issue?
>>
>>2878348
As long as you have the switch hooked to a modern circuit breaker you should be fine. To be safe, you might want to give the furnace its own breaker slot. Also check if the furnace needs 120v or 240v first
>>
>>2878357
Thanks.
>>
>>2877970
>>2877973
the air in the stack needs to be warmed in order to move up and pull new air into the firebox. i used to prime it by lighting a piece of paper and hold flame near the chimney hole until the smoke went up, then id light my fire, now i live in the south and dont get to chop wood.
>>
>>2878348
>replace it with a switch with an outlet on it

depends
an outlet needs a live and a neutral
it's likely that your wires are (1) a live coming into the switch, and (2) a live leaving the switch and going to the load
so there may be no neutral present, so your socket wont work

as for the fuse, it's likely that if an appliance has its own fuse, it's because they need a fuse rated LOWER than a standard breaker
say 10A instead of 15 or 20A
so removing the fuse would be taking a risk
>>
>>2876379
I am doing a remodel in the bathroom and kitchen, the cabinets are made with MDF. Is there a way I can give them more support to make them last long enough until I die in a few years so my kids won't have any issues selling the place?
>>
I replaced a stupid energy-saving “lightbulb” with a modern LED one.
But while the previous one was running perfectly fine (besides taking forever to light up and having a shitty color) the new one is flickering like hell.
What could be the reason for that?
It’s a standard E27 cheapo fixture on 220V with a name-brand LED bulb. I just accidentally one of those that try to look like old school real light bulbs, with a yellow LED “wire” in the middle. Don’t really like them, but don’t really care, but it is surprising, especially compared to the first gen of LED that had a really heavy bottom, that this one is almost as light as an OG light bulb.
Ore those just finicky or do I have gremlins in my wiring?
>>
>>2878429
Modern LED bulbs are made incredibly cheaply, the early ones were sometimes decent because they played it safe with the specs, the new stuff is atrocious. I bought some replacements after 2 older LED bulbs broke and they take an extra half a second to turn on and flicker way worse.
>>
>>2878429
The flickering is by design
LEDs are retarded
>>
>>2878429
>the new one is flickering like hell

you may be using a dimmer
if so, you need to remove it, or get a bulb that says ''dimmable''
>>
>>2878392
Paint them and keep them dry.
>>
File: 39935002_L.jpg (120 KB, 660x660)
120 KB
120 KB JPG
I want to build a deck on the back of my house. I have a small house so the deck wouldn't be very big, maybe 10x12 or so, and not on a very steep grade. Would I be okay to use picrel as footings? My soil is loamy sand and is loose down to about a foot, after which it becomes compact, and then changes to silty sand at about 3 feet down. I live in zone 5 so the ground freezes in the winter. I was thinking if I did a freefloating deck and didnt tie it to the house any ground shifting from freeze/thaw would be minimal. Am I retarded? Should I just spring for screw piles or concrete instead?
>>
File: 1000080329.jpg (2.98 MB, 4000x3000)
2.98 MB
2.98 MB JPG
How can I extend the shaft of this absolute unit to mount some polishing wheels?
>>
File: 1733629681717.jpg (3.05 MB, 4080x3072)
3.05 MB
3.05 MB JPG
>>2878534
You should probably have some sort of proper foundation for the footings instead of just having it resting on the ground. The ground will move and shift overtime, expanding and contracting. You'd be rebuilding your deck in just a couple of years.

Pic kinda rel. Cheap fuck landlord put the backyard shed on a brick base but used the bare minimum of base sand under the bricks and poor quality concrete edging. Soil is a sandy loam that's quite hydrophobic and moves about with the seasons and the water content. The bricks are all fucked up around the edges with this sagging corner being the most obviously messed up bit. I ended up buying some builders sand and relaying the bricks round the other side of the shed, still need to do this side.

Relevant to your concerns, the structure of the shed itself is no longer square due to the bricks all having shifted out of place. It's fortunate it's just a cheap galvanised steel shed and not a load-bearing deck or it could be a big problem. Somedays the door doesn't open or shut because of the warping of the door frame.

Do it properly or don't do it at all. Doing it half assed will cost you more in the long run and is dangerous.
>>
>>2878437
> Modern LED bulbs are made incredibly cheaply, the early ones were sometimes decent because they played it safe with the specs, the new stuff is atrocious.
Of course. My first gen, cheap, ikea ones are still running, while I already had multiple failures of newer ones, after filament bulb lifetimes. But so far, I only experienced early failures, but not flickering. Light “quality” was always decent, even better than the early ones.
>>2878462
It’s not on a dimmer, so that shouldn’t be it.
It’s not some high frequency flickering, but rather
>it’s running alright
>running alright
>does this flickering like an old school bulb does before it dies
>running alright again
Which is really weird if me out.
>>
File: radio-tower.jpg (2.24 MB, 2392x5842)
2.24 MB
2.24 MB JPG
What kind of antenna do I need to get the fastest internet connection possible from this cell tower?
I have a Netgear Nighthawk with TS9 external antenna connectors.
I want to install an antenna on the roof.
When I put a phone in a window facing in the direction of the red-white mast I get more bars therefore that's the nearest antenna.
What they sell on eBay is a an omni-directional antenna. I think what I need is a directionl antenna specifially pointing at this radio tower. What is the best thing I can buy?
>>
File: yagi antenna.jpg (147 KB, 1217x788)
147 KB
147 KB JPG
>>2878632
> I think what I need is a directionl antenna specifially pointing at this radio tower

sounds like you need the weather-proof version of the antenna invented by the Jap actor in Karate Kid (1984)
but, you're undoubtedly asking, can i make my own using popsicle sticks and paper clips?
yes, indeed you can, you cheap slut
>>
File: antenna-different-angles.jpg (275 KB, 2270x1134)
275 KB
275 KB JPG
>>2878632
>>2878638
OP Here. The yagi antenna non my roof is from the previous owner, it's an analog TV antenna and probably not useful for anything.
From my research it seems that the broadband antennas on the mast are the white panel antennas between the first and second ring from the bottom.
I want to get the correct receiving antenna for the one on the mast. I think it needs to be a
'high gain panel antenna' or "High Gain 4G LTE Antenna with TS9 Connectors" but there's a million different products and fuck knows which one will give the best signal reception.
>>
File: Workbench.png (397 KB, 546x780)
397 KB
397 KB PNG
I want the most basic piece of furniture I can attach a vise to. i.e. I want to avoid making a whole workbench. I have a folding workbench that also acts as a smaller vise, but it's not rigid enough to add a proper vise.

What should I do? Can I make the folding workbench more rigid? I don't care about no longer being able to fold it.
>>
>>2878652
>make the folding workbench more rigid?

#1 attribute of a proper vice is that, if you stick a metal rod in it, and bend it using all your strength, it'll hold the rod in place
obviously, a vice needs to be bolted to something super heavy, not something you can lift with your little finger
>>
>>2878650
>4G LTE Antenna

- yagis can be made to work (or purchased) at any frequency, within reason, by adjusting the spacing of the metal spikes
- 4G LTE can operate at various disparate frequencies, depending on carrier
- in N America we use 1.9Ghz, 1.7Ghz, 850Mhz, 2.6Ghz, 2.3Ghz, 2.1Ghz, 600Mhz

so you def need more data before you proceed
>>
>>2878652
You need a proper bit of furniture, a big heavy workbench, something bolted to a concrete floor. I imagine you can find plenty of stuff like this in estate sales or local ads if you've got a way to transport it.
>>
>>2876379
test
>>
File: plug.jpg (80 KB, 900x1200)
80 KB
80 KB JPG
How do you know it's time to replace the spark plug on a snow blower when you have no idea of how long it was used? pic related is the actual one
>>
For moving ~500–1,000 lb loads (fridge-sized) within a garage, is a dolly with locking wheels safer than a dolly without locking wheels?

Any recommendations for good products would be very appreciated as well.
Thanks in a van.
>>
>>2878699
>>2878699
connect it to the spark plug wire
lay it on top of the engine
pull the engine over briskly
if it sparks, it's good

It shows no wear (sharp crisp electrode edges)
clean it with carb or brake cleaner and re-install it.
>>
>>2878699
You might want to sort out that oil leak first
>>
File: 20241208_195156.jpg (79 KB, 826x735)
79 KB
79 KB JPG
>>2878562
You need a capacitor across the lights to sort the flickering out.
>>
>>2878429
>>2878562
Update: after about 2 days of on-and-off use, it appears to have fixed itself. WTF? Do modern LEDs need some kind of burn in? Do they have some IC that needs to “learn” my houses voltage and frequency? (AFAIK, you have some (small) percentage you can deviate from 220V/50Hz)
>>
File: 20241208_151259.jpg (2.76 MB, 2880x2880)
2.76 MB
2.76 MB JPG
My front door handle just fell off and I'm having a bitch of a time getting it back together. The problem is i cant figure out how it's supposed to stay together. It looks like the grub screw on the right is supposed to be extended once the handle is on but the hole through the mechanism is smaller than the key head - i cant fit a hex key big enough to grip the screw.
I looked and all I could find on the ground was a little plastic blue washer. All of my other handles have threads on the left side and an extra grub screw, but the front door doesn't. Maybe it's a security feature?
Anyone seen handles like this before?
>>
File: poynting.jpg (347 KB, 1828x1654)
347 KB
347 KB JPG
>>2878632
>>2878638
>>2878650
>>2878656
OP Here. I'm going to try this Poynting antenna Britbongs and Australians use:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReD79YZo9UY
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C1DGFPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
>>
File: Assembly..jpg (260 KB, 1440x1440)
260 KB
260 KB JPG
>>2878793

The grub screw MAY be left-hand threads.
>>
>>2878811
Oh wow I wasn't expecting a full instructional with step by step and tools on a diagram. I appreciate the time you spend anon.
Unfortunately the handle faces the other way and hole on the handle is on the side opposite of the screw. There is an egress inside the handle for the screw to extend into so it obviously is supposed to screw in but I think it requires a special tool. I'm going to stop by home depot tomorrow and see if they recognize it otherwise I think I'm just going to upgrade to a true security handle
>>
>>2878654
>>2878662
Thanks
>>
>>2878706
4 casters with brakes each, with brakes that also locks rotation. Not 2 straight wheels 2 casters because manoeuvring big stuff sucks with those. You can never see exactly where the dolly is when there’s something big on it so you never know the turn radius/centre
>>
>>2878892
Much appreciated, thanks anonymous!
>>
File: 1713190009321313.gif (1.29 MB, 498x278)
1.29 MB
1.29 MB GIF
what can be added to piss bottles before pissing into them in order to prevent them from developing ungodly stench every time they are opened to pee into them? it would be epic if I could open and pee into a bottle 5-6 times before it develops any stench.
>inb4 mustard gas
pls no
>>
File: A152.png (393 KB, 1024x1024)
393 KB
393 KB PNG
>>2879014
Listerine
>>
File: file.png (11 KB, 997x590)
11 KB
11 KB PNG
My garden hose goes underground, but the way it's attached (not fixed, just shoved onto a smaller hose) means that if I don't use the hose for a while, while its on, the pressure builds up and it bursts. Are there any 'corner' attachment thingies I can use to keep it secure regardless of pressure? Pic related
>>
>>2879036
Also the hard part is that the small pipe it goes on is under pavers and I don't really want to dig them up. So I was hoping for like something I can just attach around the area it connects and it will really tighten a lot, but all the things I find the screws are perpendicular to the metal mesh wrap that constricts, so I can't really get in with screwdrivers. Might just have to dig the paver up sadly
>>
sounds like you want a sharkbite fitting with one side the size of the smaller pipe, other side size of the bigger pipe
if that's difficult just match the smaller pipe and rebuild in that size from the fitting
if you refuse to do any digging or take pictures this is all the advice you can be given
>>
File: campa fresh.jpg (114 KB, 500x375)
114 KB
114 KB JPG
>>2879014
RV toilet tank treatment. Pic related. It used to be formaldehyde, but IDK what they make it from these days.
>>
I want to learn Fusion or any sort of CAD software but the books I have been finding kinda sucks. What is a non-video resource to get to learn (or actually any CAD in general) that is more project orientated?
>>
Tearing out the flooring to lay tile. If my sub floor isn't level and I need to use a self leveling compound, what would be best to fill in gaps in the floor so the compound doesn't drain through? What is the recommended brand of compound to use for self leveling?
>>
File: trv.png (105 KB, 723x539)
105 KB
105 KB PNG
I've got a leaking TRV at the joint to the radiator after undoing it, what are the odds replacing the piece with the olive that goes into the radiator fixes it? Replacing the TRV seems like more hassle, but I don't know if this is doable without taking the TRV off.

I tried wrapping the olive in PTFE but it was hard to get to and didn't work out.
>>
File: 1712108257822475.png (891 KB, 1425x925)
891 KB
891 KB PNG
>>2879149
>>
Electronicslet here. I have a bluetooth headset that works fine on one ear and the mic, but the other ear only plays audio sometimes when the headset is bent a certain way. Interestingly it's the ear opposite the microphone that works normally. I'd guess it to be some sort of loose wiring connection leading to the speaker. does it make sense to open it up and look for something like that, and hopefully solder it or w/e if I find smth? Or are thy using fuck-you-thin wire that I wouldn't be able to solder/engineer these things to break when disassembled? Would I even be able to find such a problem viually, or should I try to measure the connections with a multimeter?
>>
>>2879153
It's a compression fitting, so wrapping up the threads doesn't help.
>>
>>2879155
pipe dope can be used with compression fittings
>>
>>2879157
It can, but after trying PTFE a few times I think it's the side of the olive I can't get to that's leaking. I had it packed on there pretty tight and it was still leaking from somewhere.
>>
>>2879014
>prevent them from developing ungodly stench

for a gallon bottle, a cup of bleach + water, about 20% bleach
very effective and low-cost
>>
File: feather finish.jpg (100 KB, 1089x595)
100 KB
100 KB JPG
>>2879144
>fill in gaps in the floor

Henry's Feather Finish
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uv1z3rQ9N8
>>
>>2879168
an actual picture would be helpful
>>
>>2879149
You can replace the olive without needing to remove the TRV. I wouldn't go all the way to trying to replace the whole tail, just do the olive.
Here's what you need to do.
>Close off the flow side
>Turn the TRV to closed (if you've still got the decorator top that came with it use that to close it)
>Release pressure from the bleed valve
>Once water stops coming out of the bleed valve crack open the nut on one side connected to the rad
>Drain the rad down by gently pulling the pipe just a bit to let the water come out of the rad
>Repeat on the other side to get rest of the water out
>Once rad is empty, remove it by undoing the inlet and outlet nuts and gently pulling them to the side so the rad can be lifted
>If you don't have enough room due to the valve stopping you, can can undo the bottom nut just a little to allow you to turn the valve 90 degrees while you pull out (so it rotates out).
>Once rad is removed use an olive puller and remove the olive
>Apply jointing compound to the olive and the inner valve lip that the olive crushes against
>Reassemble is the opposite of removal
>Tighten up, close bleed
>Fill rad up by opening the flow side
>Open the trv to 5
>Bleed the rad
>Close valves
>Check for leaks and tighten just a tad more of required
Use jointing compound and you will have zero leaks. I use pic related and I've repaired leaking rads that are 25 years old.
>>
>>2879174
I can't really take a picture of it, water's flowing out of it if I take the nut off. I've tried packing it with PTFE like in this video, a few different times, but it's still leaking.
https://youtu.be/56QcMmp0VNQ?t=242

>>2879178
Maybe I could get an olive puller, but at that point it seems more sensible to just swap the tail, who knows if the tail itself isn't making a good seal with the olive or whatever.
>>
>>2879179
The tail doesn't make the seal, it's 100% going to be a warped or over crushed olive. New olive and jointing compound will get the job done. If you were to install a new tail you'd have to make sure you're buying the right size for your rad, for your trv, and it's properly tightened and sealed with ptfe and that it isn't too long for your valves and even then it would still just come down to the olive. You've probably just over tightened it after reinstalling. They don't need a lot.
>>
>>2879182
Yeah, I guess you're right. Thanks, I'll order one and some new olives.
>>
>>2879172
Thanks
>>
>>2878699
If you're having trouble, it's always bad fuel or carburetor
>>
>>2877884
Electricians use reciprocating saws and just cut the nails from between the box and stud so they don't have to fuck up the wall
>>
>>2877733
As long as you're not too rough, you can use any of them

The Ryobi and Milwaukee are best but I went with craftsman for the price. I'm a pro handyman and use a craftsman pack out, kobalt and worx power tools and drive a rust free 99 f250uts pretty comfy desu
>>
>>2877819
Use wood and then put an angled board or plywood across so it doesn't fold
>>
How exactly do shrinktubes work? If I heat one up to make it contract and it cools down, can I heat it up again to make it shrink further?
>>
>>2878536
Hard to answer without knowing how the polishing wheels themselves mount or how much you need to extend the shaft by.
Kneejerk suggestion would be an internally threaded pipe with a tension screw or pin in the side to keep it from winding out.
>>
>>2879212
>can I heat it up again to make it shrink further?

typ shrinks to 50% diameter
once you've got to that point, it wont go any further
>>
File: IMG_0748.jpg (613 KB, 1170x1524)
613 KB
613 KB JPG
Has anyone used pic related before? It says it’s a stapler that can also shoot small brad nails, thought it might be useful for around the house and the occasional project just to tack something together till the glue dries.
>>
>>2879342
my expectations are very low and compressor nailers are hella cheap
but hey let us know how it turns out
>>
>>2879346
That Ryobi USB stuff has all been dirt cheap too for the holidays. You can definitely get into that for less than a small compressor and stapler.

>>2879342
Those are tiny brad nails it takes, and the thing claims it’s more “crafts” than shooting a bunch of staples for wires. However, Ryobi has been making other nailers for years now and those things have had a good reputation considering the brand. Not to mention Ryobi’s big brother M12 has had staplers out for awhile. Have realistic expectations and the thing might be pretty solid for the money. But those expections should be that it’s a household crafts stapler and not the Milwaukee meant for electricians
>>
>>2879212
Yea if it shrinks to half of it’s original size, and you hit it partially to 70%, then want to come back a couple days later and go to the final 50%, it will work. But it’s a situation that doesn’t really happen because the first time you shrink it, you’re trying to go tight around a wire or connection and you’re not going to shrink it further because it’s tight and sealed and needs to be cut off to do anything with those wires.
>>
>>2879342
I have a similar one from Stanley. The problem is the brad nail size is only 5/8”, for a somewhat strong connection you want about 2/3 of the nail through so you’re limited to 3/16” maybe 1/4” sheet materials. Most of these have been pretty useless for me unless it’s for cabinet backing, even a lot of moulding is over 1/2” thick at the point you can reach with the stapler.
>>
>>2879356
>You can definitely get into that for less than a small compressor and stapler.
it's listed $80
compressor gun >$30
staple gun >$10
if you don't already have a compressor well fuck you
bet you can find a used pancake for $40
now you have 3 independently useful tools
>>
>Want to replace bulbs on my home chandelier (6 bulbs, e12, hooked to a dimmer switch)
>Put in a new set of bulbs
>Chandelier turns on, but the new bulbs look shit so I take them back out
>Put the old bulbs back
>Not a single bulb turns on
>Try two more different sets of bulbs, and the new ones again
>Nothing turns on at all anymore
>Breaker isn't flipped
What the fuck? Did I fry it? Knock something loose? I could see one socket fucking busting, but all six?
>>
File: 20241209_185825.jpg (432 KB, 1061x796)
432 KB
432 KB JPG
How do I cover up this shit? It's some kind of a thin wood or wood paper rather. The frame is hollow inside. Can I just put filling?
>>
File: night_light.jpg (7 KB, 222x374)
7 KB
7 KB JPG
>>2879434
If the new bulbs had a longer than normal center contact on the bottom, they MAY have bent the center spring in the socket against the bottom of the socket.
When you put the old bulbs back that have regular length center contact, they can't reach the bottomed out socket contact.

Do the new bulbs still work?

>E12
If you don't have a continuity tester, put the old bulbs in a night light to test them.
>>
>>2879448
It's a veneer.
>get a small slither of wood that can go inside the hole. A stirring stick chopped down will do
>put a very tiny hole in the middle, tie a thin piece of string, tie a knot and pull through
>add glue to the filler wood (super glue will do, it's only there for a backing) insert into the hole
>pull the string towards you to engage the wood against the sides
>hold until dry
>once dry cut string and then apply a bit of wood filler
>sand surface
If you want it to match after filing. Sand all the veneer off and and apply new veneer.
>>
>>2879455
The new bulbs don't work in the chandelier anymore either. All bulbs, new and old, still work when I plug them into a different lamp. I guess it just has to be the chandelier wiring, right? Pulled something off while changing them the second time?
>>
>>2879526
>Pulled something off while changing them the second time?
probably
>>
File: 95552_W3.jpg (120 KB, 1200x1200)
120 KB
120 KB JPG
Are ratchet wrenches good? They seem like a good idea but are they reliable?
>>
>>2879573
Brilliant tool and reliability comes down to brand. You shouldn't be cracking nuts with the ratchet end anyway. Look into slim ratchet wrenches too.
>>
>>2879539
Fuck, I guess that's it. Thanks for the responses. I don't know if I have the knowhow to fix it. Can always flip the breaker and fuck with it a bit, but this implies I either need to "open" the chandelier (the wire runs through the inside of the bras structure), or worse, that I need to take down the whole fucking thing from the ceiling, etc.
>>
>>2879573
They're fantastic for certain jobs, but I wouldn't use it as my only wrench when it comes to breaking loose tough nuts and bolts. IMO, a set of the short/stubby ratcheting box end wrenches in combo with your regular wrenches is pretty ideal.

Most of the appeal of these things has to do with their use in applications where there is very limited access or room to work; they're not optimized for strength.
>>
>>2879580
post a pick of the socket, if it's a normal socket, try taking a screw driver and bend out the small tab so it has better contact with the bulb. obv make sure theres no power first
>>
File: PXL_20241212_000843422.jpg (3.36 MB, 4624x3472)
3.36 MB
3.36 MB JPG
>>2879591
Here you go - don't see any kind of tab in there, just threads onto a smooth bottom. I guess the new bulbs could have conceivably pushed down the contact point in each socket, but then they'd surely still work. Also it seems unlikely that every single socket would fail simultaneously if that's the case... I looked at the wire briefly and didn't see anything obvious, but it's mostly hidden inside the chandelier itself
>>
I have a thermal blower that doesn't blow. Opening it up the problem is the little fan that's attached to the little DC motor has broken off its shaft and be spun by the motor.
I'm glueing it back onto the shaft and hoping the glue won't melt (it blows into the heating elements, sucking cold air in, so it probably won't get too hot, right?). Question is, how the hell is that little fan supposed to be attached to the shaft? The shaft on the little motor is a thin and smooth cylinder, there's nothing to attach it to. Doesn't look like a friction fit because the hole on the broken fan is larger in diameter than the shaft so how the hell did the manufacturer design this?
>>
Hello, friends. Poorfag here. I would like to build a fence for a bit more privacy and security, and the cheapest options here tend to be concrete block walls and chainlink fence.
The idea crossed my mind to leave gaps in the concrete block wall like in picrel to save on cost.
Is it a stupid idea? Would the wall/fence become too weak and collapse? Will durability plummet?
I've also learned about rammed earth recently (called tapial in Spanish). Basically earth/sand, cement, and water is all you need. Would you recommend for a tropical climate? I read the Spanish used it a lot when they first arrived, but just making sure.
>>
>>2879858
Here is another design or pattern.
Is it better than the other one or equally as bad?
>>
>>2879860
>>2879858
Where I live we have what are called 'breeze blocks'. They are very common for exactly what you are talking about.
>>
>>2879862
They look pretty. I bet they're even more expensive than regular blocks here. Kek.
>>
>>2879862
Here is a vintage example.
>>
>>2879866
Yeah, I bet they cost more. They look nice.
>>
>>2879867
You can buy a mold online and cast them yourself. Its not hard, just takes time for them to setup and cure.
>>
>>2879868
I might try. Thank you.
>>
>>2879858
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hORaZ5_jxzk
>>
>>2876379
I got a direct drive racing wheel from a brand that doesn't have the clout to have their own cut outs in chairs/rigs for mounting.

I don't want to drill into the plate of my seat mostly because I have no idea if the positioning I set it to will be ideal/what I want, so, what i'm wondering is if there is any off the shelf hardware store part I could use.

i'm thinking an s shaped thing, I have to accommodate a bolt going up into the mount and a bolt going down into the ready made holes.
>>
>>2879954
I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to get a bracket for the motor. The problem with adding an "s shaped thing" is a lack of rigidity. My unistrut DIY rig just has some mounting holes I drilled on the top that hook up to a solid bracket for my motor, but it's hard to know what kind of mounting holes you have given you haven't posted a picture of either your rig or your motor.

Placement really doesn't matter that much, it varies wildly car to car to begin with, as long as your arms are comfortable and it's in the middle, it doesn't matter. I don't have any tilt on my wheel because I was too lazy to make a spacer, but it hasn't ever bothered me.
>>
File: dp7ca4bzeewb1.jpg (1.57 MB, 3472x4624)
1.57 MB
1.57 MB JPG
>>2879956
didn't post what it was because I figured it wasn't relevant.

cammus c5 and playseat challenger

looking it up online tells me the mounting holes for the cammus are too narrow, and playseat doesn't accommodate it without new holes in it. i'm kinda wondering now if I could get a piece of wood and sink the bolts into it with a large washer and do the same to the other side, but without sinking them...

think some wood would be able to handle the force would I need to go metal of some kind?

here for a good idea, this is the image I found about it
>>
File: eyc32mgxeewb1.jpg (1.25 MB, 3472x4624)
1.25 MB
1.25 MB JPG
>>2879957
here is an image of it from the side to get a bit of an idea about its mounting,
>>
>>2879957
>>2879958
Honestly, a spacer is just going to make it more awkward, might put the wheel a little too close to you. Drilling some new holes is a 2 minute job, I don't know how much narrower they have to be, but you could probably do it with a file.

A piece of wood will handle it, but drilling holes is easier and requires less precision.
>>
>>2879858
Guys, I don't want to be an attentionwhore, but nobody answered the original question. Will the wall/fence be too weak and collapse if I do it this way?
The other anon just told me to use or make breeze blocks if possible.
>>2879929
Metal sheets are expensive here and ugly. Also the wood/metal poles for the frame tend to be expensive as well (that's why I'm considering a block wall instead of just putting a chainlink fence).
>>
File: 1721538459732685.png (199 KB, 1101x434)
199 KB
199 KB PNG
>>2880030
>Will the wall/fence be too weak and collapse if I do it this way?
a single brick vertical tower is increadibly vulnerable to force at the top, you'd want to userebar that goes through something very strong holding them all together on top...
if you're deadset on cinder blocks I would suggest using them sideways and overlapping them in the classic and proper fashion. you'll get more coverage, but a less deep wall.
if possible run rebar or other supports on them
it's gonna be weak without fulll coverage if the individual blocks aren't extremely heavy

>Metal sheets are expensive here and ugly. Also the wood/metal poles for the frame tend to be expensive as well (that's why I'm considering a block wall instead of just putting a chainlink fence).
i'd look into it a bit more if possible, check farm stores
>>
>>2880043
I see, thank you!
>>
What's the best kind of belt to work long shifts in? I need to carry a knife holder with a couple tools in it too feels like every belt is uncomfortable as hell and gives me red sores on my waist
>>
File: 1715764344248386.png (21 KB, 136x142)
21 KB
21 KB PNG
>>2880063
do you tuck in your shirt
>>
>>2880067
No, should I?
>>
>>2880068
it'll cushion between your belt/shorts and skin
i suggest trying it, i wear undershirts and when they become untucked i find it noticably uncomfortable
they also lower sweat stains by wicking water away which i didn't find out till like 25
>>
>>2880076
I'll see if it's good but I definitely can't wear an undershirt I work near ovens the size of a two story garage and it gets way too hot when you take stuff out or go in. Thanks for the help
>>
>>2880063
Suspenders.
>>
>>2880096
as I mentioned already, that I learned later in life
unershirts have a cooling effect
I worked in restraunt kitchens, foodtrucks, outdoor florida construction
i still wear undershirts
though it's kinda a moot point when you're just drenched in sweat all day with the latest job
>>
File: panels.png (24 KB, 1278x1678)
24 KB
24 KB PNG
Would putting soundproofing panels on the bathroom and closet walls prevent the sound from the loud neighbors from going further than those rooms? Obviously it wouldn't be perfect but would it make a difference? The goal would be to trap the noise in those rooms that can be closed off
>>
So im planning to make my house security better so nobody can break in while im away this christmas.
Any ideas? things looking bad or messy is not a problem.
So far i have planned:
Door bars, any ideas what i should use to hold the bar?
Locking up the breaker box, done.
Security cameras, done.
UPS for security stuff, done.
Any ideas for the windows?
>>
Whenever I caulk, after I apply the caulk I notice a few tiny little holes. I'm guessing these aren't holes going all the way through the crack or joint I'm sealing, but rather just surface-level imperfections in the caulk itself. My instinct used to be adding more caulk over it, but sure enough I'd then usually find another tiny hole somewhere else nearby. I used to drive myself crazy with this shit and spend way too long on it.

But I'm guessing it's probably because I'm using too much caulk. Am I right about that?

I don't really give a shit about how it looks, I just want to know I've sealed the joint or crack. If I have, then I can live with the aesthetic imperfection.
>>
>>2880302
When you're caulking, you're trying to seal a void. It's important to try to have a angle of attack that is both forcing caulking into the crack and making good contact with the sides.

So for an inside corner, I'm at about 45deg even between the walls then have maybe 30deg down pitch. The bevel on the gun then cleans up as you pass through. Forcing the caulking in, this way leaves clean and finished bead. Lots of people think you still need to finger blast it until you have a 1" mess on both sides.

So the bevel cut must be an appropriate sized bead. You must force material in at an even bead tempo. Then if you're tooling you want to use the right tool and lube. Credit cards work pretty good for bathroom caulking. Dry finger, wet or mineral spirits finger does about everything else. Sometimes damp sponge, but this can remove too much. Tooling is generally for aesthetic caulk jobs. I'm combing the bead more than digging it back out. Not enough bead or aggressive tooling will open up holes or cracks. Painter's acrylic is your most forgiving vs your exterior sealants or silicone.
>>
>>2880063
Occidental tool belts are greatly comfortable and I don't have any hips. I had to use suspenders or shove a sweatshirt into the cheaper tool belts. idk if it's the wide leather belt strap or just getting better at my job and learning to not carry 35 lbs of ammo along with my tools.
>>
>>2879448
You could try to patch in some oak, but you'll have to match the finish also.
>>
>>2877733
Good luck brother. Our "team lead" would send us traveling to the closest town while he assembled all the high dollar items at the stores in our neighborhood. He also charged the stores for bonus bikes he didn't build every time he went out. That guy and $4 to straighten the forks, true the wheels, gears, and brakes on a mountain bike never seemed worth it to me. Actual trades are alive and needing good hands.
>>
>>2877565
Backer rod or foam then probably a color matching grout caulk.
>>
>>2880311
Bro, one should caulk to live, but it sounds like you live to caulk
>>
File: perspective-manipulation.jpg (544 KB, 4874x1616)
544 KB
544 KB JPG
Why are the windows spaced unevenly? I suspect it's a perspective trick because the house is on a curve therefore you only see it at an angle. My guess is it's to make the facade look symmetric when viewed at an angle. on the left and right hand side are the 2 main perspectives this building is viewed at. This was built by Germans in I think 1921, it's east Brandernburg.
>>
File: PSX_20241214_162907.jpg (70 KB, 722x1067)
70 KB
70 KB JPG
Don't need to be told I am retarded. I understand. I just want to know if there's a better way to have 2 of these steel washers, with opposite polarity dc current, seprdated by 2mm gap. I have the wires soldered inside because it needs to fit in a specific electronic device.

I used spray glue with 2 plastic washers, but is there a better way to do this? Like a better glue?
>>
File: boiler pic online.jpg (96 KB, 675x1200)
96 KB
96 KB JPG
For the past year, my boiler randomly makes a loud vibration noise that can be heard all over the apartment, which I suspect is the fan inside. I've been turning it off at the mains overnight to avoid disturbing my neighbours. This means the hot water in the cylinder tank eventually starts getting cold and I need to keep it on for some time every day to top up the hot water.

Whenever it's on at the mains, the boiler "ON" light is always lit up, even if the central heating is not active at that time, and hence the loud vibration can happen at any time. This randomly changed a few days ago and now the "ON" light is only lit up when I've turned the central heating on and the boiler starts firing up inside.

What would be the cause of this change? I haven't touched or done anything different. Is there a safety risk with leaving it since it's basically solved my issue in that I don't need to keep switching the boiler off as the loud vibration doesn't happen when the "ON" light is not lit up and I've also had no shortage of hot water.
>>
File: boiler.jpg (84 KB, 1280x720)
84 KB
84 KB JPG
>>2880389
This is the boiler and the "ON" light
>>
>>2880377
>Like a better glue?

i would've used double-sided foam tape instead of washers
if i need it to be strong enough survive a nuke, i'd get the red kind used to hold outdoor house numbers
>>
>>2880389
>>2880394
This isn't diy friendly. Get a gas registered engineer in to look at it. Your yearly service should have picked it up anyway.
>>
>>2880412
Heh, funny thing about this: the noise started after I got a gas safe engineer to check it for another issue, which turned out to be water tripping an electric. He came back and couldn't fix it, then ghosted me after that. I've had 2 engineers out since then and they haven't been able to solve the issue either.

The boiler is like 13 years old (I moved in a couple years back and wasnt really experienced with this stuff), so I don't want to keep dumping money into it when I'm going to replace it with a brand new one in a year or 2 anyway. I would just like to remove the inconvenience of manually turning it on and off everyday and also be free of this loud noise.
>>
>>2880417
Put a timer in line with it so it turns off and on based on the time of day.
>>
>>2880418
well it seems like my problem is currently solved if the "ON" light doesn't permanently stay on, and I can get maybe a year or 2 more out of the boiler before replacing it.

However, I'm asking specifically if anyone knows what would cause this random change of the "ON" light all of a sudden only coming on when the central heating is activated? So basically the boiler acts like it's off unless the central heating is on, and even then, it still keeps a full supply of hot water
>>
>>2880417
I let a lot of things go but I don't fuck with heating. Probably time to suck it up and get a new one fitted.
>>
>>2880432
I just used an electric heater for the past year
>>
i need sheets of wire mesh with specific apurture sizes to build a set of graduated classifying screens for a project. ideally im looking for sizes ranging from 4cm to 0.25cm with equidistant intervals between the sizes, but any recommendations are helpful. premade product recommendations also welcome.
>>
File: s-l1200[1].jpg (225 KB, 1200x1200)
225 KB
225 KB JPG
So, is this board the right place to talk about EDC? I want to assemble some basic medical stuff (pic related... kinda), but not sure what exactly to pack. I have a kid (4 years) who is too energetic, today tried to run in the stairs, slip and hit in the forehead and shins. Nothing of importance, 15 minutes later he was running and playing again, without bruises or cuts.

But I was thinking about start carrying stuff that may be needed if something more serious were to happen. Also, I try to keep it realistic, I won't carry a full ambulance in my sling bag everywhere.

And please, I try to keep it real. I was looking in youtube and got sick of all the tacti-cool bros flexing their gear.
>>
>>2880466
>>>/out/ frequently has first aid kit threads. a lot of people on there are very anal about carrying weight, so they tend to not include a lot of superfluous shit.
>>
I want to put up a boxing double end bag, which needs a small hook to hang from but I don't want to drill into the ceiling. This is gonna sound retarded but could I just use adhesive or expoy or something to stick a wood block to the ceiling and drill a hole in that? The bag is just a bladder filled with air so it weighs next to nothing, it just needs to hold up to being punched.
>>
>>2880529
>use adhesive or expoy or something to stick a wood block to the ceiling and drill a hole in that?
kill yourself retard
can probably set it up horizontal and tie the ends to your bunk bed posts
>>
File: ratchetysnatchety.jpg (3.71 MB, 4000x3000)
3.71 MB
3.71 MB JPG
>>2880466
I don't generally carry any medical gear, but I've spent a lot of time looking at EDC tool kit stuff looking at clever ways to carry useful things without taking up much space. A lot of them emphasize using tiny retarded tools, but sometimes you see some good ideas.

Pic rel was a recent idea of mine to carry a 1/4" ratchet and socket set as compactly as possible. VACO flip sockets strung onto zip-ties. the zip-ties aren't actually zipped, just threaded through and looped back so I can undo them and use the zip-tie if I need it. takes very little space in the center console of my work truck. My work doesn't involve using any tools, but sometimes I run into shit like needing to replace a light on a trailer or risk getting stopped & ticketed in a company vehicle and I'm not waiting around for 2-3 hours on a roadside service if I don't have to.
>>
>>2880466
honestly, the standard stuff that comes in a pre-packed first aid kit is generally all you need. bandages, bandages, bandages. anti-bacterial gel, some basic over-the-counter pain medications, couple pair of tweezers to try and remove splinters or debris that gets into a wound, a little bottle of eye-wash. Anything more. that style of kit is to control the situation until medical assistance arrives, not let you be a DIY-doctor. usually for my personal FAK, I also like to add an entire roll of medical gauze, the kits usually don't actually include nearly enough for a serious injury.
>>
hi /diy/
I live in an apartment that has radiator based heating. In my apartment there is a heating zone valve installed behind one of the walls. I can hear it turn on and off when I manipulate the thermostat.

>1. When the thermostat calls for heat (target temp greater than current temp), the motor in the valve spins for like 20-30 seconds (I guess to the 'on' position?)
>2. When the thermostat removes the call for heat (target temp exceeds current temp), the motor in the valve spins for like 20-30 seconds (I guess to the 'off' position

For ~3+ years now I have the following issues:
>(1) will sometimes cause the valve to spin forever, and not stop. The radiators still get warm so the heat still "kicks in" even though it spins forever. To get around this I need lower the thermostat target temp, get it to stop, and do (1) again.
>When (1) works successfully and the valve stops spinning after its "on", sometimes it will just start spinning again on its own, again, forever until I do (2)

The valve is a really old White-Rodgers zone valve and the landlord won't do anything about it because the heat "still works" (he leaves shit until it gets catastrophic - he ignored a ceiling leak in my bathroom for years until the drainage pipe that was leaking got really bad and the ceiling got extremely fucked and i needed to put down buckets when it rained). Does anyone know why the symptoms I see could be happening? If the zone valve (ZV) gears were fucked then wouldn't it almost always fail to stop after (1) which is not the case?

Would appreciate any advice.
>>
What would be the best way to glue thin carpeting to wood? I'm working on a home made mini golf game
>>
>>2880620
For that I would use carpet specific
glue meant to adhere to wood

>>2880448
Hardware cloth comes in various sizes, used mostly for animal shelters can be easily attach it to a frame and do what you want.
>>
>>2880448
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/wire-mesh-screens/
>>
The power in my shed isn’t working. It’s powered by an underground cable from the house, and the only other thing on that breaker are 2 Hue lights. When I measure the outgoing side of the cable I get:
- 120V between phase and neutral
- 220V between phase and ground
At the breaker I get 220V between phase and ground. It’s supposed to be 220 here

On the incoming side in the shed I get between 19-25V phase to neutral and 220V phase to ground

Somehow, the 2 hue lights work fine. Any ideas what the problem could be?
>>
>>2880780
Just to clarify, the neutral wire I’m measuring is coming from the lamps, not going to the lamps
>>
>>2880780
One or both of your hue lights is wired in series instead of parallel?

By your description you.should have 220v phaseto neutral too. You have r a problem on the return path then, probably
>>
>>2876379
>puts copper mesh into steel faucet of water distiller as additional filter
Tastes kinda metallic. Is this toxic?
>>
File: DSC_2959.jpg (2.6 MB, 4000x3000)
2.6 MB
2.6 MB JPG
>>2880795
>>
>>2880794
Nah they’re done correctly, it’s always worked, too. I put some foam insulation the other day which I hope hasn’t put the cable under too much tension. Guess I’ll have to find the other side of that neutral wire but the ceiling is fucking 4 meters up
>>
Any time I do any home repair or work on my car I have horrible back pain for days.
Is this normal? How do real trades handle it?
I'm only 30. Sometimes it's just clearly a sore back from crawling around, recently it felt like a straight up pulled muscle or something.
I already lift carefully. Recently I wasn't even doing anything strenuous just drilling some holes and the pain just came out of nowhere.
>>
>>2880970
I'm a weak little bitch, so I get this from even basic stuff like kneeling on the floor for a while messing with a radiator. It's just muscle groups you're not usually using getting strained, if you're doing the work day in, day out, the muscles get stronger and you don't have a problem anymore.
>>
File: superman-exercise-hold.png (376 KB, 800x588)
376 KB
376 KB PNG
>>2880973
Yeah same it's just from simple things, usually with more precision than strength. The more I have to contort the worse it is. Maybe I'll do those superman back exercises.
>>
>>2880970
At 30 you really shouldn't be having much of a problem. Stretch before and after more. Take an ibuprofen the next day if it's really a pain.
>>
File: cata.jpg (20 KB, 540x540)
20 KB
20 KB JPG
>find out ventilation tubes in apartment complex attic are fucked
>tell board we need to fix them
>get three different offers from ventilation companies
>board is not convinced we need to fix tubes
>spend half a year explaining and convincing them
>finally get them to bring it up on the yearly assembly
>my suggestion is voted in by residents after just 10 minutes
>on the condition that we ask our insurance company, do we need to do what the ventilation company says or can we just make a cheap fix?
>okay, insurance says they're not our advisors, just fix your shit
>tell board to accept the offer from the ventilation company and get fucking going, it's been a goddamn year by now
>board says nuh-uh, insurance didn't say we need to it right, we can make it cheap
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
>>2880970
Normally I am quite active doing farm work. Threw my back out bad a few days ago doing god only knows what. Didn't immediately start hurting but by the time i was ready to go home it was pretty bad. That night was terrible, could hardly get any sleep. Next morning about the same. By the end of the day it had calmed down some... Still sore but getting better. Thank god my wife is like a physical therapy guru and gives me back massages and rubs the ointment on my skin...

Thanks for reading my blog.
>>
File: augerrr.png (912 KB, 628x856)
912 KB
912 KB PNG
Can anyone recommend me the best chuck drill? It will only be used manually, never attached to a power drill.

I want to make one of these.
>>
>>2881582
When you're paying for a drill chuck, you're paying for things like concentricity, which doesn't matter at all when you're going to be wrenching on it with a bit of wood. Any keyed chuck will work fine.
>>
>>2881586
Thank you, anon. Should I get the cheapest one I can get that offers the widest range of bit diameters?
>>
>>2881588
Anything under about 3mm is just going to snap like a twig with something like that. If your goal is drilling small holes, you're better off with a pin vise or a hand drill, depending on the hole diameter. Something like that is really made for big fat auger bits and soft wood.
>>
>>2881591
Oh, yes. By "widest range of bit diameters" I meant on the larger side. It's part of my "prepping" equipment, so I would like to be able to use any bit I could find. I am not sure what the upper limit to that would be.
>>
File: 1000020959.jpg (70 KB, 500x327)
70 KB
70 KB JPG
>>2877992

Aerospace fag here. Before applying the aircraft paint, it is CRITICAL you apply several coats of Hexavalent-Chromium primer (look it up), preferably while your truck is sitting in the driveway on a breezy afternoon when all your neighbors are out and about.
>>
File: 1724778511442715.png (3.87 MB, 2488x1149)
3.87 MB
3.87 MB PNG
>>2881624
too late already fucked er up
>>
best way to remove 2-3 year old bird shit from cement walls?
>>
>>2881631

that actually looks pretty good. did you use the acft paint? probably better you didn't take my advice and give the neighbors cancer
>>
>>2881634
pressure washer?
>>2881661
I did
lmfao it's horrible, there's runs everywhere everywhere. I had a foam roller to spread em out but dropped it in the dirt and said fuck it
i ran the sprayer at 100psi which was obviously WAY too high, emptied the 2C reservoir on less than half the vehicle
just committed to the mistakes to get a coat so I don't have to deal with rust removal anymore
i'm gonna have to sand it down and do another proper coat later, but it's fine for now
>>
>>2881665
>>
File: 1705553533756679.webm (1.63 MB, 330x448)
1.63 MB
1.63 MB WEBM
>>2881672
you know the feel when you spend dozens of hours on a big project and nothing is going your way and you finally get to the last, most important step, and you just don't fucking care and just want it done?
yeah...
>>
I have a metal figure(probably pewter or some other casting alloy) that I broke a part of and need to glue it back together.
The issue is that
>it's a small spot(1.5mm circle roughly)
>it connects a support to a small overhanging part so it needs to be stiff as to not sag over time
>but also needs to not be brittle because I need the figure to be able to be handled somewhat
>it's nearly impossible to clamp with any force beyond just enough to hold it in place
What glue/epoxy/whatever would be the best to use?
Can't solder it as I don't want to ruin the paint finish.
>>
>>2881710
I would JB Weld that bitch. I’ve had pretty good luck with it, even painted metal to painted metal. But I think you should try to find a way to clamp it or you will end up with a big seam. If there’s no way to clamp it at all, if I were doing it, I would get a glob of JB in there, squeeze that bitch, run around with some rubbing alcohol on a rag while holding it together to clean any JB that squeezed out and would be seen, and then run a bunch of masking tape around to try and clamp it together.
>>
>>2881674
>you finally get to the last, most important step, and you just don't fucking care

that's how I knew Hostage Negotiation wasn't the job for me

>>2881665
>lmfao it's horrible

It is horrible but I was trying to be supportive lol. I haven't been involved with painting aircraft in a few years but as I recall they take their time and prep a lot beforehand... and still tend to fuck it up
>>
>>2881717
Thanks, I'll give it a try, I haven't actually used JB Weld before, it's not very common here. Looking at it maybe I could get a clamp on it if I shim the overhang so it doesn't bend but I'll have to buy a smaller clamp or maybe try doing it in a vice, I'll see what I can do.
>>
Do these work with solid wire? How do I find out if they are allowed
>>
File: image.jpg (2.84 MB, 4032x3024)
2.84 MB
2.84 MB JPG
>>2881748
If JB Weld isn’t available, maybe you have a version of it. I would look for terms like “Steel reinforced epoxy” maybe? JB Weld has little specks of metal in it, you can actually see it sparkle when it’s wet. It works well for lots of different jobs because it doesn’t dry rock hard like many glues that become brittle and can crack with movement, but it’s not soft like silicone. Somewhere in the middle where it’s hard but you can dig the tip of a sharp object into it easily.
>>
>>2881835
I was able to order some, it's just a bit pricier than other two part epoxies(well more like three times the price) and I don't think I've seen it in brick and mortar stores here
>>
>>2881765
Better question is there something like a quick disconnect for mains cables that you can leave outdoors? I’m powering my shed but there will be some changes to the yard. I’d like to be able to temporarily route the feeding cable to the other side of the shed and back. But using a waterproof extension cord plug+socket to power outlets feels wrong and probably isn’t allowed
>>
>>2881765
yes but you shouldn't be using solid core cable for temporary installations, it's too brittle. not brittle but you know. it will fatigue.
>>2881856
you haven't said where you are for a start so nobody can tell you the rules.
a waterproof connector sounds ideal to leave outdoors, what don't you like about it?
an unarmored flex like that shouldn't be left permanently, only for temporary connections.
there is a lot more to worry about with a shed. as long as its fed by a suitable current imbalance device at source then it will be hard for anyone to get seriously hurt, and what hurts nobody; cant people know about. or something like that.
>>
I'm not in the US but i have a friend who is
He keeps talking about killing himself cos his job sucks
I think he should get a job doing CNC stuff at a firearms manufacturer because he has autism and would enjoy it
What would he need to get certified to do this in your cunt and how would he go about getting those certs?
>>
>haven't used my sink in 3 weeks
>there's a red sludge built up in the garbage disposal, completely submerging the blades
>can't turn on disposal
>draino did not clear it
What the fuck is it? I'm going to let a second round of draino go at it then maybe break out the plunger but I'm confused where it could have come from
>>
>>2881911
Can't speak to firearms manufacturing, but for CNC in general, no certifications are required, but you do need to convince them to hire you. What particular certifications/courses/experience are most useful for this depends on the job. Some commonly helpful ones are the osha 10/30 hour courses, forklift certification, and of course trade school courses in machining/cnc
Although I don't think I would recommend shift work to someone who is depressive and/or unreliable as the rigidity of the schedule makes it difficult to accomodate any personal problems
>>
>>2881911
I worked at Glock for a year while learning to machine. It was miserable. At an entry level you are a button pusher, taught the bare minimum. A step above that is an adjuster, who makes offset adjustments to keep a production cell running. The adjuster is again taught the bare minimum, even given cheat sheets that tell them "if dimension 314 is out, adjust the length of tool 210 by double the amount in the opposite direction". Above that is a supervisor or technician role. They have no power but are closest to being a machinist you will get in a large company that makes the same parts for years. The fixtures and programs are all made at the top and by the time it gets to you everything is perfect enough for them to not check in on the process. I went to work at a job shop after that and enjoyed machining a lot more
>>
File: Suicide.jpg (115 KB, 952x656)
115 KB
115 KB JPG
>>2881911
>talking about killing himself
>I think he should get a job at a firearms manufacturer

Subtle troll, but not that subtle.

credit for:
>>2882312
>>2882350
taking the bait
>>
>>2882354
Even the factoids are shaped like a gun. Kojima does it again.
>>
File: bullethead.jpg (41 KB, 700x700)
41 KB
41 KB JPG
I'm building a front fence, what do i use to fix pickets to the rails? I want it to look nice. Will bullethead nails work? They would give a nice finish but might pull through. Looking it up the suggestion is ring shanked nails or screws but they have an ugly head. Pickets are 70x20x1600 if that matters
>>
What exactly is a transformer chop saw, as in how does it differ from a regular chop saw? Tried googling it and all I get is shit about Transformers™ and the Chop Saw character.
>>
File: MiniWareES15S.png (643 KB, 1092x796)
643 KB
643 KB PNG
>>2876379
Does anyone know whatever happened to the Miniware ES15S electric screwdrivers? They're out of stock everywhere.
>>
>>2882501
Probably got replaced by cheaper alternatives.
>>
>>2882370
Bulletheads will be fine, just do a sneaky and apply a dab of woodglue behind each picket before nailing it in. The bond created by the glue will likely outlive the nails.
>>
im building a breakfast bar, so I got a 9 foot wall and the last 3 feet of it is a pony wall. had a hard time getting it sturdy, sunk a 1/2" all thread going from the top of the pony wall frame down a couple inches into the foundation. its pretty sturdy now but if you give it a pop with your hand there is about an 1/8" of play that vibrates (about the same youd see if you banged a stud on a non-loadbearing wall). think this is acceptable or do I need to get this thing completely immobile?
>>
>>2882370
talking out of my ass rn but I think the issue you might run into with those is theres not as much holding the wood in against wind shear. personally Ive only ever used screws for fencing like that, those tan decking type screws are barely visible against stained wood.
>>
File: 1705531139965878.png (19 KB, 613x587)
19 KB
19 KB PNG
>>2882559
you want to secure up the vertical where the pony connects to the full wall
you also want to make the base of your island deeper than a single 2.4
i'm guessing it's gonna be 3x3ish bar
>>
>>2882572
yea hindsight is good. it was a last minute alteration "well if Im already doing this much might as well get fancy". its not going to be a true breakfast bar just a countertop that extends from the countertop to the halfwall. i picked up a 6 foot long angle iron to tie it to the rest of the wall, hopefully this is sufficient.
>>
first time working with a servo, wired it up and it's not moving. I can test the voltage with a multimeter, can I do the same for the signal wire? will I measure a voltage change when the servo is receiving signal?
>>
I’m pouring stabilised sand (it’s like 1:10 sand:cement) in my basement but there are 2 central heating tubes. Do I need to cover the tubes with something? Will aerofoam do?
>>
>>2882601
2 hours later, angle iron accomplished nothing
>>
>>2882619
Did you connect servo ground and controller ground? Is it a hobbyist rc servo or a cnc type of motor
>>
>>2882665
the servo is MG996R,
it is connected to a 5v regulator (+ and -) which I know is getting power because the led lighting up. That's connected to a flight controller which also acts as a controller for the servo
>>
>>2882653
yeah you can't have stability with two points of contact
>>
>>2882678
Yes there should be something measurable when you send it to move anywhere other than zero position. But small max duty cycle so it’s hard to measure. Iirc it goes 2.5 to 12.5% so when you send it to the extreme position you should measure about 1/8 of whatever voltage you put in on the signal wire. When you send it to zero you measure 1/40. When you disconnect the servo this should also be the case btw
>>
>>2882687
thank you sir
>>
>>2882503
The "cheaper" alternatives are just that, cheap shit.
>>
I want to re-upholster this chair. I'm just now realizing, I'm going to have to pry these apart, aren't I? And glue this cushion back on? Any recs on what kind of glue?
>>
File: IMG_20241223_204836.jpg (1.93 MB, 4080x3072)
1.93 MB
1.93 MB JPG
>>2882786
forgot pic
>>
>>2882786
>what kind of glue?

the kind that stays flexible: contact cement
>>
>>2878652
a low workbench you can sit on to make it more rigid
>>
why is wickerwork so cheap
>>
File: child labor.jpg (13 KB, 259x194)
13 KB
13 KB JPG
>>2882833
>why

child labor
>>
>>2882843
can wickerwork mog woodwork
>>
I found a fan like picrel, and it turns on, but the high setting doesn't work. What should I check to see if it's salvageable?
>>
is it true that office workers look cleaner just by virtue of the fact that they're office workers and not necessarily because they're making more
>>
>>2882860
You should check that the switch is making contact
>>
Do you think it makes a difference between using a dremel (highspeed) vs a drill (lowspeed) for drilling holes to be used with plastic anchors on plaster walls? not drywall, or those hollow walls americans use but full plaster ones.
>>
>>2882903
A dremel won't have the torque required. They spin very fast, but even the mildest of resistance will stall them out, they're not even suitable for anything over about 3mm. Get a drill.
>>
>>2882816
thanks anon
thanon
>>
File: untitled.jpg (45 KB, 640x426)
45 KB
45 KB JPG
>>2876379
I don't have 240v in the garage, but I do have a 5500w generator. Would it be particularly stupid to run a 60 gallon air compressor off a 120/240v plug?
>>
>>2882981
>I don't have 240v in the garage

maybe you do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZbIJZe_YDs
>>
>>2882981
Similar question. I have one of those Electric Stove/Dryer Plugs, the 240V/50A ones in my basement. It's an extra one, perhaps for an in-suite stove that was never done in that basement, I already have a separate circuit upstairs main floor for the stove, and in the basement laundry room for the Dryer. Is there any way to convert this to a tools 220/240v plug 30A? So I can upgrade my table saw to a 3hp/5hp model from the current 1.75hp 120V one.
>>
>>2881624
I had the paper certificate from 2000 and thought the plastic card was cool so, I sent for a replacement and the issue date was changed to the that of the newly issued card. Looks like I am a noob. Maybe you could talk someone out of that, someday.
>>
>>2882354
I don’t see the vaxx.
>>
>>2881852
JB is a life changer.
>>2881835
Based contribution.
>>
Tried soldering something at my dad's because I don't have a soldering iron.
He has several. The one we were using kind of died in the middle because apparently the potentiometer to set the temperature was kinda fucky and we had to crank it up to max to just get the tin to melt. Another cheaper one he had didn't even achieve the needed temperature.
Now because I have neglected getting one for myself for quite some time I am now wondering what a good quality one is. inb4 "hurr just buy some chinkshit". No, I will NOT buy chinkshit, at least not mainland chink shit. I want to some good, reliable brands. A good quality iron, preferably with exchangeable tips, a good quality station that won't just die on me randomly. I would mainly be doing small shit electronics soldering on PCBs and the like.
Thank you.
>>
>>2883140
Literally just buy chinkshit. I've got some old station I spent 30 bucks on years ago and it's fine. Bought a pinecil and some tips and they look very nice, but I've never bothered using it.
>>
>>2883140
Your dad's probably got hot but the tip was oxidized from being left on.

Ksger is okay for ts12 stations. They're not the cool kids anymore though. Pinecil is kinda a dumb meme. Hakko is better than ksger and ksger is almost as expensive as them now.

The shitty chinkshit now is like 900 series where the handle is the heater, not the tip
>>
>>2883020
Nope, I definitely only have 120v out to the garage. A single UF-B 12/2 literally stuffed through the wall, buried, and ran out to the garage. I will be redoing it properly in the future, but I need to rewire the house first, as I don't care to fuck with 60 y/o fuse boxes and dodgy boomer wiring. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something and could just run the ~4000w load off a 5500w generator.
>>
File: IMG_3580.png (3.8 MB, 591x1280)
3.8 MB
3.8 MB PNG
Is there any easy trick to remove theee rings when I can’t really put any force on them?
Assuming no:
Is this something where I NEED a quality tool (I’m in Germany, so knifed would be the go to) or can I also save some money by getting some China special off amazon or my local Baumarkt?
(It’s an old mixer where I’m trying to see if I can remove the broken pats and then find a replacement)
>>
The mold in my garbage disposal is getting worse. I've tried drink, baking soda and vinegar, mold cleaning solution, and bleach. Thinking about poking a small hole in a solo cup and filling it with the mold cleaner. That way it slowly hits the mold instead of all at once where most of it slides off and goes down the drain
Would rubbing alcohol and fire work? I think burning it out could be effective
>>
what is the strongest hook and loop on the market?
>>
>>2883244
those are just normal C-style snap rings. You need snap ring pliers.
>>
>>2883279
That’s what I was assuming.
But do you need pro level stuff, or is random Chinese stuff from Amazon good enough for occasional use?
>>
>>2883280
I buy proper knipex stuff for circlips. Pliers are one of the places you don't really want to cheap out that much on, because during normal use they're subject to some heavy forces, and letting a circlip ping across the room when you don't have a spare is not fun. Cheap wrenches and screwdrivers deform, but cheap pliers snap.
>>
File: 1716961821600902.jpg (98 KB, 973x1753)
98 KB
98 KB JPG
Any help for a complete novice bros? I have some basic questions.

>Want to build bookcase of sorts
>Just start designing it as I go
>That'll do

I'm using pallets because I like to reuse things (I'm poor). Whole thing isn't actually that big (6'x2.6'x7"). My concern mostly is assembling the thing.
The way I have it is the horizontal planks will remain as one while the vertical planks I'll cut to size and attach them together with seamless nails.
The other thing is the seamless nails. The planks are only half inch thick and books are pretty heavy when there's a lot of them. I'm not sure if they'll be able to take the strain of the weight considering they're for skirting boards.
I've also had to extended the top shelf out to 9" because the books for those are around 8.5" and increase the height of them to 12" (two below that are 8" and the ones nearer the bottom are around 11".5).

That big empty space on the bottom left isn't a concern because I have a small set of drawers that fit there. It's sort of the reason I can't just make the whole thing 9" deep because then I'll have no space on top of the drawers for my coffee cup and whatnot.

Other than it looking ugly, what major mistakes am I making here?



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.