Previous thread: >>2868444>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>OP source:https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOPbake at page 10, post in old thread>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics>Project ideas:https://hackaday.iohttps://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/https://adafruit.comhttps://makezine.com/category/electronics/>Books:https://libgen.rs/>Principles (by increasing skill level):Mims III, Getting Started in ElectronicsGeier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything ElectronicKybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching GuideScherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for InventorsHorowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics>Recommended software tools:KiCAD 6+CircuitmakerLogisim Evolution>Recommended Components/equipment:OctopartLCSCeBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)Local independent electronics distributorsladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html>Most relevant YouTube channels:EEVblogW2AEWMoritz Klein>microcontroller specific problems?>>>/diy/mcg>I have junk, what do?Shitcan it>consumer product support or PC building?>>>/g/>household/premises wiring?More rules-driven than engineering, try /qtddtot/ or sparky general first>antigravity and/or overunity?Go away
>>2876653>Books:>https://libgen.rs/Link isn't working
>>2876713https://libgen.ishttps://libgen.stOP needs to update the sticky.
>>2876718Thanks
Chinese power supplies? I got a $300 budget to buy a power supply. For now I will only be using one for less than 24v applications. $300 is like $900 in chinese money. What should I look for and what should I buy if I want to get something from aliexpress?
Same for soldering stations from ali express, got a $300 budget for one of those too. What should I look for/get? Any other supplies that would help make soldering easier?
>>2876744Can you get hot air for that?
>>2876744looks like its not worth the money. listen soldering iron tips will melt no matter what. there is no such thing as a quality soldering iron. just swap the tips when they get melted enough.
i had to leave some stuff out of the video loke the fact im using two 18650 natteries cause of 4chans restrictions.anyways i dont feel like the mosfet is making the electromagnet stronger, it smoked a bit thoigh not sure if it burnt. anyway i can improve upon this? also the current is just ignoring the button.
>>2876743> Ampere Nice full spelling of the guy’s name, but it should be Ampère with a grave. And, obviously, they should have went with Volta instead of Volt.
>>2876744Aixun T3A, then use legit JBC T246 tips with it>>2876792Post schematic
>>2876840i think this is it its an irz44 the voltage is around 8 volts from two lithium batteries
>>2876893A transistor of any kind can’t amplify current that the power source cannot supply. If you had a small 1mA current source and a battery that was capable of sourcing 1A, then you could use a BJT or other current amplifier to make an output current larger but proportional to the small input current, but ultimately that larger output current is coming directly from your power source.What is the resistance of your electromagnet? If it’s too low to measure, you can calculate it from the thickness and length of wire you used. The current flowing through the solenoid is described by ohm’s law, though keep in mind the resistance inside the batteries. You’ll see something like I = Vbat / (Rbat + Rcoil). If the resultant current is too low, you aren’t maximising your power output and need to shorten your coil or use thicker wire. But if the current is too high, it will be outside the safe operating area for the batteries. You could also use a magnetic core geometry that focuses the magnetic field strength, like a horseshoe magnet or partially enclosed bobbin.
>>2876893Wire it like pic related. The relay is a stand-in for your electromagnet.
>>2876940Maybe add an snubber / free running diode on the coil?
>>2876940What’s the point of using a transistor when the switch is also in series with the load?Also I’m pretty sure he wants to “amplify” current because his electromagnet isn’t strong enough.
>>2876940thank you. but what is up with it using like a gorillion amps? im not sure if i need the electromagnet to be stronger i wanted to try just in case but not if its going to suck the battery dry. maybe its the app just making stuff up. but i did notice my batteries getti g drained in minutes when i was trying that. its hardly surprising the current doesnt resoect any of the brodboard lines if its such high current.
would be cool if ad wasn't giant bitches about loading non ad models into ltspice
>>2877010lts is based on spice, and it’s ancient.everyone else is the malfeasor.
>>2876971>diode on the coilYou're right.>>2876975Anon never specified the size of the electromagnet. Just wanted to help him with wiring.>>2876991The parameters and layout are wrong. The FET gate isn't even connected in your drawing here >>2876893
>>2877057this app must be broken. the electricity is not flowing through all the wires either way. I dont know why but i kind of struggled replicating that schematic right there... anyways i think in one configuration it got to 400 something miliamps which is not exactly what i was hoping for. somewhere in between 400 milli amps and a gorillion amps. i dont knkw something like 2 amps. but its okay i do to think ill be needing it. thank you.
>>2877070https://www.electronics-tutorials DOT ws/transistor/darlington-transistor.html4chins kills .ws domain links.
Is getting a spare battery for my Dualsense off AliExpress a bad idea? Should I pay the extra for an original?Current Battery works, it's just in case though
>>2877070
>>2874501soldered it to a protobard, looking good so far. I will secure the display to the board as well, add some batteries and 5v converter and put it in a box. I am thinking of using tilt switch so it automatically turns on when screen side up
>>2877130why so shaky a 5volt shock is not that bad lol
>>2877130are you nervous
If I pass 3x the voltage max rating of a mosfet through it, will it die even if it stays closed and doesn't change state the entire time
>>2877214Probably
>>2877214try it for yourself
>>28772143 times the absolute max? no way.
>>2877214Yeah it's gonna die.
>>2877214mmm magic smoke
>>2877214Voltage limits on shit means stuff isn't exploding sparking, and destroying itself instantly.A lot of current limits are either from I ternary resistance or cooling problems. If you immersed it in liquid nitrogen you could pushyhe current through. Once you exceed the voltage it's just gonna be fried. We'll there's still tolerance so maybe 1.1 or 1.2x voltage might pass but 3x it'll just go pop.
>>2877241>>2877237>>2877230>>2877220But I don't get it because for there to be 150vDC across the mosfet, it would have to be open or a higher resistance than the load.With it shut there is very little resistance from leg to leg, and it would have to arc over to ground from load which I don't think is possible>>2877222I will be soon but I'm concerned about it
>>2877256the gate dielectric might not be able to withstand 150V across it. look for Vgs(max) in the datasheet.they also may have calculated the maximum voltage based on the maximum power it can dissipate.if youre under the maximum rated Vgs (youre not) and you just need it to work once then go for it, you might luck out. otherwise, know that you will be rewarded for respecting maximums.
>>2877256I interpreted "stays closed" as "stays shut" not "stays allowing current to pass". Ah, electrical ambiguity. There's technically nothing wrong, but you have to take into account all possible transient and edge cases. What happens if you lose power to the MOSFET driving circuit? What happens on turn-on? Can the MOSFET turn on fast enough? Are there situations where the MOSFET won't be on?You could probably avoid the problem by putting a from drain to source or from drain to gate, though that could backfeed power somewhere you don't want it.What's the circuit?
I want to make something like this, but I already have most of the individual resistors, capacitors, led's, transistors, diodes, switches, etc. Is there any type of tool, like a bread board, but in the air that I can use to hold or snap thees components together to build a 5-10 component circuit without soldering or using a bread board? Anything I can solder and wire to these components that would allow me to easily snap on and off the components? Wondering if there's something superior to those connectors they sell at walmart and car parts stores.
>>2877307Remove the plates in a breadboard and use those
>>2877307Magnetic Legos stuffed with subcircuits that are pieced together so that the magnetic forces repel when incorrectly oriented. Maybe they light LEDs as you connect them for debugging/feedback. Elektrubix Cube? Blincoln Hogs? Circuit Blocks?© 2024 Anon
>>2877271It's a bunch of lithium batteries in series.They each have one that is part of the protection circuit. It will "turn off" and cut the flow if the battery gets too low, too high, or too cold. The mosfet is powered by the battery I guess. I will eventually remove all their protection circuits and install one big one that does all of them, but I wanted to proceed with using it right away for some things
I have one of these APC 600s. It's been in service for ~4 years or so. Recently quit working for power outages (flash on AC power caused it to shut down and start beeping.) I replaced the battery but it still had same issue, so assume it's something internal. The controller's still doing something, throwing error codes and such, so assume that's still working. It's been replaced with new and I'm plannikng to crack it open and take a look. Assume the guts is just a massive capacitor and a control board in a plastic shell? Anything else I should be looking for?
>>2877256components are cheap, never be afraid to blow them up yourself. worst case is they smoke a little and get hot.
>>2877307Can't imagine this is what you meant, but pic related comes to mind. Actually, I have no idea wtf you're trying to accomplish. Thing you pictured reminds me of the old school Radio Shack electronics labs they used to sell. If I was going to DIY one (without a 3D printer) I'd use perf board, and source a bunch of those little coil springs in 1/4" OD.
>>2877335It's usually the charge/feedback circuit that burns up in those, and it should be visible to your unaided eye. Was the battery swollen when you replaced it?
>>2877307UNILAB used to make these simple modules for education. uses 4mm banana jacks. seems to be about your level.
>>2877385Bananalab by FlukeMSRP $399.99 USD
>>2877335>I replaced the batterythe new battery is the only thing of value in that boxcoz you can get units with dead batteries for a few dollars at the thrift store, or craigslist, kijiji, etc
>>2877307>would allow me to easily snap on and off the components?snap is rightuse snap button kitmales go on the cardboard backingfemales are soldered to wires to make the flying leads(same principle used for ECG machine probes)
>>2877333Yeah that's not going to work. If one cell has a slightly lower capacity than the others, or is a slightly different temperature, or whatever, it's going to shut off its protection cell before the others. With one cell's MOSFET turned off and the rest on, it's going to have the whole high voltage across it. Also those protection circuits can't handle that much current in the first place, you're definitely better off going for a BMS.
>>2877421? I said I won't be allowing it to do that.I will be closely monitoring for that when fucking with it
>>2877421are you the guy from a couple weeks back that was saying you cant wire batteries in parallel?
How do i get good at control systems. Failing exam 2nd time.
>>2877307>that I can use to hold or snap thees components together to build a 5-10 component circuit without soldering or using a bread board?I've been using the heads of alligator clips
>>2877463Well, if you're never letting it get close to 2.5V per cell it's probably fine.>>2877478No. He's right that it's probably bad practice if you want to design a robust battery though. Tool batteries put cells in parallel all the time, and they also don't balance-charge the cells even though they often brick themselves from getting out of balance, so I treat that as confirmation that both are methods for planned obsolescence.
We found this in garbage. We know its made by Philips and it uses Intel8088. No keyboard or floppy drive found around. Front panel is missing. I forgot to make photo of back. Rear contains dozen of boards with some of them labeled with known labels for me. Like printer or RS232. Is it some kind go measurement device or is it computer? Dunno.
>>2877656hehe forget to attach pic
I've seen people use nail polish as a fix for removed/corroded/destroyed solder mask. Is that a good idea?
>>2877504Your professor is probably making you implement a control system from scratch without leveraging software that does the heavy lifting in that regard such as ros control.>but you still need to implement your own algoriiiiithmsyeah and those probably use nothing more advanced than highschool trigonometry.
>>2877668>use nail polish as a fix no, niggerfirst you fix it, then you can cover it in nail polish to protect the fix, and keep any bodge wires from movingi'd use a tiny drop of super glue instead coz it's easier to remove if you need to fix it again 40 times over
how hard is it to build an RF amplifieri need to get 2W out of a LoRa module but im not allowed to use chinkshit. only things from digikey or mouser
>>2877688>i need to get 2W out of a LoRa moduletry the ham radio general, I'm sure they'll love you
>>2877688>build an RF amplifiertake one of these and slap a ''made in usa'' sticker on itor clone it
>>2877699>$25 for two connectors and a heatsinkIt's getting to be re-God-damn-diculous. That's about three soda cans worth of aluminum and 1 microgram of gold plating on pot metal.
>>2877710i doubt thats gold maybe bronze. gold is only used some pc components and cellphones sometimes.
>>2877656>>2877657Logic analyzer?
>>2877671Thing is that during lecture I do understand everything. Homework etc. - Yes understand. But when it comes to exam... "what the fuck am I supposed to do here?"I've tried coming sober to exams, I've tried coming drunk - no solution. One professor was an oldfag and didn't even allow calculators. Other did allow calculators, but not the TI nspire where I can hide all shit I need to comfort myself, but shit didn't help and I did worse.Where do I start? Like okay. Left half-plane good, right half plane bad. Put "o" if top part is zero, put "x" if bottom is zero. Up and down = oscillations. Side to side = exponential sign. Closed loop transfer function (1/1+GC) okay. 2nd order system dampening coefficients and frequencies - okay. Bode plots - okay (actually not OK, I used to know it but I forgot!). Nyquist? What the fuck is this shit? routh hurwitz criterion? What the fuck is this garbage? It's almost like if I need 10x more time to solve the task because I can't understand it. Because I always prepare for absolutely different shit.I have no intuition of the topic I guess? I (fail-)passed fucking numerical analysis, but this shit scares me.I'm really thinking to design and order a "ruler" from usual suspects like PCBway, but ruler with a twist, some shitty MCU that understands capacitive input and OLED display and USB port where I can store shit. But that won't fix the issue of understanding. What do? I have ~2 months to figure this shit out until next semester.
>>2877746make a watch four leds. a b c and d and add rf to it or smth. get one of those pen spy cameras. then you get someone to beam you the answers.
>>2877748>make a watch four leds. a b c and dIf only it was a test... I'd have gotten at least 25/100. I'm not gonna morse-code the problem and solutions. > get someone to beam you the answers.Even harder than learning lol.
>>2877751if i were to do college again id do it that way cause i suck at math. build the watch once pass all the stupid tests and use robot operating system, matlab and the c++ math libraries for the job for a comfy robot job. id even make the rf module connect to a phone outside the class with 4g so i can get someone to tell me the answers remotely online. maybe add a camera to the watch too instead of using the pen without rf. make it look like a gummy gshock.
>>2877746when you're genuinely busting your ass but the questions look like nonsense, you've hit the limit of your intelligence.it's time to bail.obviously college will tell you to re-sit the year because they want more of your money.
>>2877688https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Skyworks-Solutions-Inc/SKY65111-348LF?qs=WMHGlxXAKT8mQXH2Ww71aA%3D%3D
>>2877768>when you're genuinely busting your ass but the questions look like nonsense, you've hit the limit of your intelligence.It all depends if question is at exam or homework. Could be same question, but at home I can solve it. At uni - nope.In other words, I need more time to solve and access to books and shit.So either slow, or no experience. >it's time to bail.Remaining subjects aren't complicated what so ever. So I'm not sure. It is just this. But I refuse to think that control theory is hard. Its fucking simple on paper. PID tuning etc. Especially since all we get is SISO systems. Those who specialize in control can suffer more. But I decided fuck that, so I did the most embarrassing thing, picking digital shit as specialization instead of telecom or power electronics. Or control related industrial and instrumentation shit. ADD meds? Weed? Try to get asian parents with a flipflop or belt?
>>2877774Hm I just realized. There are no pajeets explaining control theory. Maybe it is hard after all and my IQ is brown.
>>2877746>>2877774>Thing is that during lecture I do understand everything. Homework etc. - Yes understand. >But when it comes to exam... "what the fuck am I supposed to do here?"it honestly just sounds like you dont fully understand the material. for example, can you provide two different answers to this question without looking anything up: why do complex poles/zeros always come in conjugate pairs?
>>2877778>it honestly just sounds like you dont fully understand the materialThat is true. Far from it as exams show. >why do complex poles/zeros always come in conjugate pairs?Because we're dealing with real systems. Can't remember the exact reason... But maybe its the reason why I suck. After all, 2020 and shit was really hard on me, didnt learn jack shit.
>>2877780Fuck I think i have failed 4chan shitpost exam too. FUCK. >>2877778>an you provide two different answers>TWO
college is a scam on top of a scam. went to my brothers and sisters graduation. they all graduated in business. they give harder math test to those that didnt take ap calc to get their libetal arts staff. ivy league is also harder to get into but is easy once youre there and if you got money its not hard to get into. Also the more you fail the more they get paid. just assume that whole shit is a scam and dont take it personally.
>>2877780>That is true. Far from it as exams show. the point i was trying to make is that if you arent understand the exams, then you arent understanding the homework either. you might be using lecture notes as a crutch, or something else. try reading the textbook, start from the beginning, things will start to click fast. youll see the proverbial "big picture" as opposed to just walking through the arithmetic.>Because we're dealing with real systems.you get partial credit for that. the full idea youre trying to say is that zeros and poles are the solutions to the numerator and denominator of a transfer function, respectively, and complex solutions to real polynomials always come in conjugate pairs (and real systems have real transfer functions).>>2877781lol i only asked for two because i thought the polynomial one was a gimme.
>>2877785I failed more subjects. Electromagnetic field introduction thing. I hate myself.
>>2877860if it was easy everyone would have an EE degree. youre gonna have to wrap up your wallowing and buckle down. it should only take you like a week to get back on track, thats nothing.
>>2877860The only way to truly succeed is through failure, and everybody fails. That's how you learn most things in life and there's no way around it. So put on your helmet, faggot. lmao
>>2877869>>2877900Yes, but the subject is easy enough. Im just tired.
>>2877775>There are no pajeets explaining control theory.Nigga...https://youtu.be/mt_uoS5WSo0?si=aNBQPX8Lo8kg5gmChttps://youtu.be/iq3NH6VVGzM?si=K2nn3RxQ0XE6bsXbAlso, just grind a bunch of problems off a Control theory textbook. Ogata, Franklin, Nise, whatever. Grind, grind, grind until it starts feeling intuitive.
>>2878015europoids got lucky one of them came up with the flintlock and that lead to the abundant resources needed to kickstart the industrial revolution. They offer nothing special vs pajeets that came up with math. hindu arabic numerical system they call it. the remaining inertia from colonialism will fade soon. What donald trump is attempting comes from a source of desperation and europe wont be the gets passed the torch. projection say that by 2050 the us will be third place in gdp after india and china id say thats optimistic. many such cases throughout history.
>>2878070>one of themSounds like penis envy.
>>2878070Are you the same guy from the previous post? If so, I think I know why you're failing classes. You sound like you're so obsessed with politics and race issues that you can't focus on studying.Why were Jewish people at the top in academic peformance back in the mid 20th century, and why are East Asians and South Asians now at their same positions at high-ranking universities in America? The answer is simple: hard work. You work hard, you focus on studying, you ignore distractions, you get the degree.There's nothing wrong with posting on 4chan every now and then, but if you're spending more than 10h a week on this website (or any other social media/entertainment website, for that matter), then I strongly urge to reconsider how you spend your time, and to treat your studies/work as a full-time job.If you want to relieve stress, go on a walk, do some household chores, or do nothing (as in, literally just stare at walls instead of at your cellphone/computer).
>>2878115im talking past tense really im going to be 36 next year. Go back to college? for what? Best case scenario i get bossed around by a zoomie.
>>2878116You wanna be a slacker your whole life, McFly?
>>287814935-36 is an entire life. back in the ancient days people use to die in their 40s. Im not mooching off the government either way im mooching from my parents. I would if i could dont get me wrong since my mom is a little bit unstable.as far as guilt i dont feel any because proportionally what im getting from my parents is quiet small compared to their wealth. Theyre stingy people. i hate it when they invite me to the restaurant theyre looking at the price of food at the menu. Food. What is money good for if you cant spend it on food. Hate the money blob mentality that is the norm. Money is to be turned into a blob to accrue interest bubbles that drips money crumbs. So stupid.
>>2878154Is this pasta? It's shitty if it is.
>>2878157What i mean is food is more important than the investment account obviously. this should be obvious. My mom thinks she's being responsible and clever by not spending $30 on a steak at a restaurant. It is true that will net a little more money but the opportunity cost is bad. What she thinks is a smart desicion is actually a dumb desicion.
How difficult would it be to make a electric guitar amplifier? I just need it for practice so headphones are fine, don't need to drive huge speakers or anything. I already own breadboards and shit like that
>>2878160First, 35-36 is not an entire life. At that age you can still do whatever you want to do. Second, you need to look up the whole "40 was the average lifespan easy back when," because it's bullshit, and we've known that for a long assed time now. Third, saving money is not a bad thing, and if it's not your money then fuck off move out, and make your own decisions. You're basically outing yourself as being 18 at most with the whole post. It's funny if it's pasta, but not exactly all that funny. Mostly stale.
>>2878214well im not living with my parents but the threads been derailed enough really...
>>2878213Not hard, just an audio driver, a speaker, and a box. Follow the application notes and star ground.But you don't even need a "guitar amp," any powered desktop speakers off ebay will do.
>>2878154They didn't. If they got past child hood disease they'd make it to 60-100 just fine
>>2876653>Soldering stationYIHUA 982D-IIIWorth purchasing?
>>2876653>De-soldering stationYIHUA 948-II Worth purchasing?
>>2878256>>2878259> worth it?Why, are you going to solder or de-solder something?If they’re both $0, shipped, then yes, it’s worth it. Get two of each, at that price!
>>2878256>>2878259save that money and put it towards an oscilloscope and get a regular soldering iron.
>>2878261Already have a Dual-Channel 3GHz Tektronix benchtop oscilloscope.I will upgrade later.
>>2878260yeh, they do seem a little too good to be true.I'm thinking off upsizing the 780VA transformer in the YIHUA 948-II to 1500VA, and replace the on/off switch so both left+right sides can run simultaneously.
>>2878265$1000 for an oscilloscope? i had to double check. and youre going to upgrade? Have you put it to good use?
>>2877130Done, I will reprint the bottom though, screws broke through it
>>2878271>$1000 for an oscilloscope?Buy it 2nd Handhttps://alltest.net/categories/products/TDS694C-Tektronix/units
i wanted to answer this dummy's question but banned from g atm and my ban evasion tricks arent working>>103432798yeah anyways forget the pwm. just add a resistor with the appropriate power rating. the higher the ohms the slower the fan will spin. if its not the appropriate powrr rating the resistor will fry. Wear rubber gloves and try not to mess with the live wires as those can hurt you pretty badly if its a 1kw ac unit like mine...
>>2878265 >>2878271oops!! my bad...I bought a Tektronix TDS-820 dual channel 6Ghz benchtop oscilloscope..Got it 2nd-hand for a bargain because 1 only one of the channels worked..It served me so well for the 1st several years I didn't even bother fixing the broken channel, then it fell into obscurity.. Its now been stow'd away in my ex-neighbour's shed for the past year cause my new place has zero space for a workshop.
>>2878271 >>2878288 >>2878303>Tektronix TDS-820>2nd Hand$329 USDhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/375698071103
Any image for essential tools? Im pretty sure i've seen one image on what project to make (using rolls)
What do I need to search if I want to test total capacity of a rechargeable/nimh battery (or any battery). Basically it needs to do a full charge and discharge and check what actual capacity isWhen I search all I find is simple voltage checker that shows current capacity
>>2878379Watt-hour meter or Watt meterhttps://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-analyzer-inline-dc-powerpole
>>2878379>do a full charge and discharge there's a bunch of chargers that do that very thingget one at HobbyKing, or cheaper from Aliexpress or ebay
Does anyone solder surface mount components on the underneath of stripboard, or am I barking up the wrong tree?Seems like a potential way to save space
>>2878539https://github.com/electroniceel/protoboard
>>2878542>those huge, blobby solder tracksgross
>>2878556That’s the worst PCB construction method in my opinion. Looks bad and is bad. The GreatScott! youtube guy does this too. I don’t even know how one conceives of such an idea.Just use some fuckin wires.
>>2878556>>2878567>gross>eewwwwNobody cares about your faggy opinion other than to tell you you're gay.
>>2878556>>2878567Its called "protoboard" because its used to quickly build a "prototype" circuit.
>>2878624soldering down a wire is quicker than making a long chain of solder bridges
>>2878628then buy veroboard
>>2876653Is there anything like this that allows you to drag and drop electrical components and sort of animate what would happen in a circuit, but a desktop/offline version of it and not a web browser one? I know there's another website like this that had a black background and green and red animation when you turned on a circuit that showed the direction of the current, and the current diminishing as it passed through resistors and other components, but that one is also browser based. Is there anything like this for desktop, even if it's paid? I just want to be able to drag and drop components and wires and simulate reading the voltage/amps, etc,
>>2878628I higly doubt it. Cutting to a length (and hopefully you will do a good job on first try) and stripping wires takes time and then you still have to solder them. Soldering such bridges takes little to no timeThere is also the issue with wires getting too crowded and you melting and peeling the plastic cover around the ends. Now you will also have to worry about slighlt loose wires next to each othee touching
>>2878556Is there a specific name for this kind? Can't find on aliexpress at least
>>2878640>animate what would happen in a circuit, but a desktop/offline versionthere's a dozen free and paid offline simulators, like multisim and proteus, but none of them do animations, AFAIKcoz electronics is sirius business and anyone doing animated stuff would be laughed out of the building
>>2878643>specific namesmd protoboard
>>2878640You are talking about falstad and there is an offline version as well (haven't tried though)https://www.falstad.com/circuit/
>>2878648Wow, I didn't know there was an offline version of it. This is exactly what I was looking for. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
>>2878539>>2878542>>2878556What problem does this solve?
>>2878642>stripping wires takes time>wires getting too crowdedsounds like a skill issue on both counts(ignore the blue wire)
>>2878665And you could havw that in half time with a smaller board size if you just soldered connections
>>2878665>bump a random metal leg sticking out or a wire end that is too end>it shorts to wire next>now your IC is melting
>>2878664Are you having trouble figuring it out?.>>2878665>3 weeks later...
>>2878642> cutting to lengthi use uninsulated wire on veroboard (where possible) and I never cut to length, i just solder it from the spool and cut it off at the solder joint unless it’s going elsewhere after that.>>2878665Like this guy, except less insulated wires, and I make use of the excess lead lenghth wherever possible.>>2878673> A short is possibleNo shit. 9 times out of 10 that’s the first issue anyone has with their first electrical project.Like that herringbone proto board never gets any solder bridges… lol.Imagine the flux cleanup job there. Probably looks like a bowl of porridge right after blobbing 1 lb of solder on it.I’m sure NASA uses this method for their flight computers.
>>2878624>prototypingBruh, just use a breadboard at that point, and then make a proper PCB once you have the design finalized.
>>2878633veroboard is garbage, just use the damn wire
>>2878755>make a proper PCB once you have the design finalizedThere are plenty of times where you're only making a one-off and stripboard is the easier choice
>>2878647that doesnt look fun to me. Holding the solder still and burning it bit by bit.Soldering sucks i dont get why people get the idea its fun.soldering video millions of views, making a led blink thousands if views ff.>>2878755youd have cad the board on the computer then order it, then pay a lot and then wait a long time. When i see youtubers making custom pcb boards i just assume they do it cause they think itll impress the viewers or smrh which is not eirth it because fuck the viewers.
>>2878866>then pay a lot and then wait a long timeyou can get 2-layers from JLC to your door in 7 days for like $25
>>2878870Stripboard costs about tree fiddy and drilling holes in it is free
>>2878866>ordering it>not /diy/ing it at homeWew lad
so i think i got it. to give my electromagnets more amps i need an rlc oscillator circuit with a step down transformer. i also got the ferrite cores but they suck as electromagnets compared to the stainless steel screw one ironically. But i can use them for the inductor/transformer.Plan b is getting thicker wire. I dont know about the hardware store but online 2mm copper wire is pricier and harder to find. my current wire is 1 mm wouldnt be worth it to get 1.5 mm wire i think.i might run out of wire though since 100 turns is 2.7 meters of wire.
>>2878885If you're not calculating the resistance of the solenoid before you wind it, you're doing something wrong. Thicker than 1mm is almost certainly far too thick. 0.1-1mm is about where most hand-wound solenoids will fall. Thicker and it's too hard to wind (and probably has too low a total resistance and too few turns), thinner and you end up spending a stupid amount of time winding.
>>2878885>>2878893FYI most people do parallel windings of thinner wire instead of using thicker wire.
>>2878893but i want lower resistance. ive noticed the electromagnets are very picky about resistance. they want straight copper to the battery. even putting the ends of the electromagnet through a jumper wire will make it far weaker never mind gator clips. The problem is i wont be holding the battery for the robot eyes with a kitchen mitten to not burn hands. So i get the 0.1 mm wire instead. thats like 100 times more resistance. I got lucky the stainless steel bolts work so well but ill just roll with it. and and unlike the ferrite core the stainless bolts are easy to wind and i can make the wire as thick as i want. the rlc circuit can get pretty complicated but im only interested in the amps and the volts and if all else fails i can just fudge the values via trial and error. The electromagnets as they are are not too bad. the record is lifting the washer 7 mm and that was while fighting gravity. i need but 3 mm extra just to be sure and round that up to a cm.
>>2876653what is the relationship between flyback primary current and secondary current? i'm trying to design my first flyback as a dc-dc converter using my CC/CV power supply as an input. i figured 24V, 10A (240W) input would allow me to get 200V, 0.5A (100W) output but my ltspice simulation clearly shows that my voltage source series resistance is choking it, such that it can't maintain the load.
need some ideas for how to do this:>pulse level adjuster>input pulse is PECL (+3V to +4V roughly, changes with temp, fairly low output impedance)>output pulse is from GND to a voltage-controlled level (e.g. 300mV Vref input makes a 300mV output pulse, but doesnt necessarily need to be 1:1, also doesnt need to be 100% linear but ideally not super non-linear)>no voltage gain is required, anything greater than 0.5 (i.e. 3V-4V becomes 0V-500mV) is fine>minimum possible gain is ideally 0.1 (i.e. 100mV pulse)>precision isnt super important, 10% is fine but the offset shouldnt depend on Vref too much and it shouldnt depend on temperature too much>propagation delay should be <3ns, but otherwise isnt required to drive much current>trying to minimize footprint so fewer components are better>is allowed to be AC coupled>is allowed to be invertedthe voltage-controlled high-level is whats eating my dick atm, otherwise the design would be pretty simple.
>>2878935Run alternating current through the coil periodically so it doesn't become permanently magnetized.
>>2878948>3nsnow I have to hear what your plans are for this
>>2878870$25 for every one-off adds up fast, and designing things with computers is soulless
>>2878952im always self-conscious about sharing the purpose of my circuits because theyre niche and i know someone's gonna be like "hey i remember you from 3 months ago, still having trouble huh? looks like youre not very good at this."its for a photodector. pic rel is what i have now, except it also makes a DC offset that ive designed away so its no longer needed (come to think of it, the pulse adjuster doesnt actually need zero offset, it just needs a stable offset). sim says it gets to 90% in about 2ns. its hard to tell with my puny 1GHz scope (and non-active probes!!) but from what i can tell the real circuit probably isnt too far behind. it definitely could go even faster if i wasnt using a common-emitter topology, which i probably could do away with since i dont need any gain. unfortunately its way too hard to adjust the thing, changing the FET at the bottom fucks with the offset, and changing the offset (follower on top) fucks with resistance of the FET (and therefore the gain) just enough to frustrate me. the DC coupling also causes issues so i figured out a way to make AC coupling work. theres also a million other issues with it. i really need to just sit down and take the time to design this correctly and be done with it.
>>2878953>>2878953technically thats $20 in shipping, at least to burgerstan. the boards themselves are like 40 cents a piece. if youre ordering boards frequently the real cost of them goes down quite a bit.>designing things with computers is soullessyoure telling me THIS is soulless???
>>2878958looks like cancer and autism rolled in one. plus you apparently have to pay/pirate, fuck that.I'll take pen and paper any day.
>>2878964>plus you apparently have to pay/piratelol that program is AutoCAD, and in that particular picture its being used to draw the floorplan for a house.KiCAD is a CAD program you can use to design circuits. its free and open-source.
>>2878957if you're just detecting pulses, can't you use a schmitt trigger? those get pretty fast iirc3ns is fucking tiny, and in my experience designing things with individual transistors tends to have horrible bandwidth
>>2878965But it runs on Windows for Workgroups 3.11.
>>2878966>if you're just detecting pulsesnope, its getting converted to an analog signal. the specific voltages matter a lot.>can't you use a schmitt trigger? those get pretty fast iircthose operate by (un)saturating transistors so they arent very fast at all.>3ns is fucking tiny, and in my experience designing things with individual transistors tends to have horrible bandwidth*blocks your path*
>>2878968forgor pic
>>2878949maybe this is not such a good idea. Turning dc to ac has too much power loss. im sure i could make the toroid inductor better but still i was reading a fraction of a volt dow from 4 volts. whats the point of raising amps this way if im losing so much power in the process. i might just get the 2 mm wire for the stainless steel bolt. I only need to have like twice the magnetic pull for pulling 1cm.
>>2878973wait don't tell me you were trying to use a toroidal core as an electromagnetif so, you should really do some research about how magnetics worki recommend this video by applied science, very accessiblehttps://youtu.be/4UFKl9fULkA?si=PfYwaXdsqYDgMTH1you should have bought a ferrite rod or horseshoe shapeyou might be able to cut a toroid in half and use that as a horseshoe shape
>>2878987no the toroid magnets required more wire for less turn for zero magnetic pull. i think ill keep them cause i might need an inductor who knows. they were cheap so its not a big deal. Right now ill just go with the screws since they work.So i used 2.7 meters of wire for 100 turns with a 1 mm wire. Im just going to assume what chatgpt said is true for now and assume that a 2mm wire is 1/4 the resistance. which means more amps. So to make it twice as strong id need half as many turns(50 turns) that would be 1.35 meters. for 8 electromagnets id need a little over 10 meters.Does this check out...pretty sure it doesnt... i need 3 mm of extra magnetic pull really...
>>2878995>zero magnetic pulltoroidal cores are specifically designed to keep the magnetic field entirely contained within the toroiduse a ferrite rod or cut one of your toroids in halfstainless steel is much worse than iron, which is much worse than ferrite, for a given core geometry, you just chose the worst possible geometryasssuming you don't care about battery health, you'll be getting maximum power out of your battery when the voltage under load at its output is reduced to half of its output with no load. any lower and you'd be better off with more turns of wire.it's not just the amps that matters, it's the amp-turns, i.e. 5 turns at 1A is just as good as 1 turn at 5A.
>>2879000the problem is cutting them. theyre made of iron. i dont even have a saw. :/
>>2879002Get a hacksaw. They're insanely useful and based
>>2878965>>2878967> autocad, wfwg3.11Needs a math co-processor, too.>>2878966> individual transistorsHave all the bandwidth. By then,though, you can’t even have a coated PCB with your PCB construction technique.
>>2879013Or even just a metal replacement blade. Wallmart and dollar stores sell them. It was $1.50 at wallmart for 5 mini hacksaw blades. Do you live in romainia or something?
>>2879002You'd probably want an abrasive cutoff wheel on a rotary tool, they're made of ceramic.
>>2879026so i checked it out on the internet. It says the toroid shape is optimal for magnetism. Not saying what you guys are saying is wrong but thats what the internet says. The steel screw used 2.7 meters of wire for 100 turns, the toroid i used 2.2 meters for 30 turns. it was harder to wind up and i had to plan the length ahead of time, i figured itd have no problems since its supposed to be that much better. The internet also says its no contest between iron and steel and that it should be multiple times stronger. i eben put a small magnet to it to confirm its magnetic and it is. i double checked the enamaled ends were scraped. The only explanation i can think of is that the wire is not tight enough... the diameter between the screw and the toroid are also roughlty similar. the diameter of the toroid is 1.3 cm. I mean it could be its bad quality mostly epoxy with a little bit of iron too.
>>2879032It's optimal for making an inductor, it maximises the magnetic field concentration by preventing it from escaping outside the core. This makes them excellent inductors, especially when you care about electromagnetic interference. But to make an electromagnet pick up something, that magnetic field necessarily HAS to go outside the core.Imagine the field lines coming from a bar magnet or from your screw. They come out the middle on one side, and go back around the outside to the middle of the other side. Pic related. Those field lines need to intersect with the object you want to push/pull. If they're contained within the core and never go outside the core, it's useless.
>>2879032>toroid shape is optimal for magnetismtoroids, in theory, keep all the magnetic fields inside the coreso, that makes them great as transformers, but shit as magnetsanyone who's spent 30 minutes playing with various coils will have discovered this obvious fact on their own
>>2879038>>2879039tried winding another one with 2.5m of wire and it didnt work either. All of this is more work than just using the screws anyways between the winding and the cutting... thank you though.
>>2879038> toroid is optimalI doubt that…. In addition to the toroid, I think you need to have a ferromagnetic “shell” around the toroid. No? The reasoning is to catch the magnetic field leakage on he outside of the wire.It’s surprising, though, I bought this Hammond E core 1:1 mains transformer (it is shielded around the outside) an it is like 97% efficiency at 60 Hz and 350 VA. Interesting how the efficiency peaks at that power.
>>2879079The vast majority of the magnetic field is contained within the toroid. In some extremely noise-sensitive cases you'll see shielding around toroids, but generally it's never worth bothering with. Only people on Marco Reps' level of autism ever see it worth doing.>I bought this Hammond E core 1:1 mains transformerAn "E-I core" transformer, with the "I" removed, would make a very good electromagnet. Colin Furze used some big transformers like as electromagnets to walk on his ceiling once. Whether any existing coil's resistance would give you optimal amp-turns for your chose power source is another matter.>Interesting how the efficiency peaks at that power.At much lower power ratings, it wastes a fair bit of power magnetising the coil every half-cycle. The energy wasted per half-cycle doesn't change much once you're past the hysteresis threshold, so higher power throughputs are going to have less loss as a fraction of total power. At much higher power ratings, you'd run into magnetic core saturation.
Is there any type of standard power cable that is male/female can be used to connect/disconnect and run power that can handle what comes from an electric pole into a panel? I want to be able to connect/quick disconnect and switch my garage getting power from the electric pole vs panels. Is there any type of cable like this with a connect/quick disconnect that works like a welding lead?
>>2879229>that works like a welding lead?sounds lethalwhat you want is some pin-and-sleeve connectors rated for the power draw of either structureone female, and 2 malesthe only niggling problem is costthe two in the pic cost several thousand you can get used ones for, say, $160 for one aloneof course, price drops with ampacity: a 16A used one will be affordable but prob not powerful enough
>>2879237>ampacitynot a word. maybe you mean current carrying capacity or just current rating most people would understand.several thousand seems quite excessive to me, i'm sure there probably are outlets that would be happy to take that amount of money from you but really you should be able to get a 100A set for not much more than 200-300$60309 is the standarddepends on the setup, if you really do need 3p+n at 100A the cable becomes a little unwieldy you might look at something like powersafe where conductors are handled separately which is a little more like your welding connector but genuinely expensive as a niche industry thing.
>>2879229>I want to be able to connect/quick disconnect and switch my garage getting power from the electric pole vs panelsWhat the fuck does this even mean? The pole feeds the panel. You're getting power from the pole either way.A regular NEMA 14-50 plug/receptacle set would give you 50A, both phases, neutral, and ground. Unless you're trying to run multiple welding machines or electric heaters at once, that's probably enough for a garage. I still have no idea what exactly you're trying to do, because the way it reads it almost sounds like you're trying to (either intentionally or unintentionally) bypass the power meter.
>>2879243>>2879229> panelsI thnk he means solar panels
>>2879243I suspect the anon just doesn’t want to shell out the dollars for a proper mains distribution changeover switch.
before i order another part and get all worked up over nothing again. An ee25 ferrite core can be used as an electromagnet right? it wont keep its magnetism contained like the toroids i ordered right?
>>2879237Yes! this is perfect. I forgot these were a thing. Thank you sir.
i have a voltage rail down at around -32V (V_LOW in pic rel), and i need a voltage-controlled voltage source that goes between ground and -30V (V_BIAS). i have a microcontroller with some DACs and op amps built-in that i would like to use in order to save component space, but theyre wired between ground and +3.3V. i first thought to do pic rel but realized it wouldnt work since the PNP follower could only swing 3.3V at the most. im pretty sure theres a way to couple two transistors together to get what i want but i cant figure it out.
>>2879240>not a word. maybe you mean current carrying capacity or just current rating most people would understand.reminded me of this part of TAoE
>>2879414Fuck this. Ill sinther iron powder with a brown gas torch ill make with my iwn hands. Ill get 99.999% purity iron.
>>2879447thats the spirit
>>2879440"voltage" is really just as dumb as amperage.Should be called tension or potential.
>>2879451>tensionuber retarded.
>>2879449just came across some things i thought were missing. i can even 3d print the bubbler and the jar. this is not the right way of doing it but whatever.
>>2879438figured it out. unfortunately theres no way to get it to work with an NMOS so i cant use this cool little thing https://www.nexperia.com/product/PBSM5240PFH
>>2879485>check datasheet for MCU>only the non-inverting op amp can be software-connected to the DACswell just fuck me i guess
>>2879414Yeah, one of those halve-cores will make a good core that's nice and open on one end.>>2879447That will be awful. You'd be better off buying iron or ferrite powder and mixing it with epoxy. Or buying iron filled filament from protopasta (expensive and suboptimal).
>>2879489this is so frustrating. iron should be cheaper than steel. Its way more expensive the only iron powder i could find is $1 per 25 grams plus shipping. 25 grams of steel at market price would be like 2 cents and refining iron is far easier than steel never mind stainless steel which is the norm.might try the iron powder and epoxy if this fails though.
>>2879499Refining iron means using carbon to pull iron out of iron oxide in the ore. This naturally adds carbon. To pull that carbon out is an extra step, and getting pure iron is hence more expensive. Mild steel is much cheaper, and is probably good enough for you. Black iron oxide powder would work too. I found an instructables link suggesting you use plaster of paris instead of epoxy.
>>2879440Electricians call it ampacity all the time.
>>2879510like a give a fuck about wire monkeys
>>2879504Powdered metal press:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I39m28NZ7_shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsTDms5n6sw
>>2879499I think you can make “magnitite” out of rust by exposing it to high temperature water (at least boiling). This is used as DIY bluing, which I learned about on another thread.Also, if you live near a desert, you can drag some magnets through sand and get all the magnitite out if it. You should also have a multi-ton press to densify it. Also a vibratory compaction session before that.(Before and/or during adding resin).
>>2879511Here’s a snippet for quick reference from the NEC so you don’t burn down your house (or, more importantly, someone elses)Clip and save.
>>2879519>Ampbient
>>2879522lol at first i thought it was some weird product of current and temperature but that spec sheet is the only thing that comes up when you google "ampbient" lmao
>>2879514so ive seen the youtube videos for brown gas generators claiming thousands of celsius and they end melting a soda can or burning a piece of wood...But ive found out if i use iron oxide and calsium carbonate i can lower the melting point and the hydrogen helps purify the iron oxide.but yeah overall the results on youtube look pretty weak sauce.
>>2879522Well spotted.I guess they reproduced it from the NEC by typing it in, LOL. Copyrighted probably, even though our tax dollars already paid for it.
>>2878665What does it do?
>>2879636hard to day by just looking at the empty pin socket. could be an eeprom chip idk.
>>2876653Is it normal for an autorange multimeter to jump up and down 020.0mv to 007.7mv when you turn it on to DC and show positive/negative symbol through out the whole dance even though the leads aren't even connected? Once I put it to measure something like 6 volts, it reads fine for the most part, it's just that when the leads aren't touching anything or there is nothing connected it dances up and down and shows the negative symbol and goes away. Do I have a defective multimeter or is it normal as long as it's in the mV range? It's a cheap $15 auto range multimeter from ebay. Pic for attention and not the actual multimeter.
>>2879744Forgot to add, it just keeps doing that indefinitely. If I connect the leads together it goes back to zero, but once I pull them apart again it moves up and down.
>>2879744It's a common problem with cheaper autoranging meters, they default to the finest possible range, where the noise is significant enough to throw the readings all over the place. Either ignore it or press the RANGE button until you get to the range you care about. In this sense, a cheaper autoranging meter is worse than a manually ranging meter, though personally I'd just go for a better autoranger.
>>2879451It is in Dutch, "spanning" literally translates to tension. German too afaik.
>>2879792>spanning
I'm a beginner, can someone help me explain how this works? In the diagram in DC, 4 volt battery positive terminal -> 1k resistor to LED's positive terminal -> LED's negative terminal to -> 100k resistor to -> 4 volt batter's negative terminal.I thought LED's were diodes and only accepted electricity going in one way, in this case coming from the direction of the 1k resistor. How is the LED dimming taking the 100k resistor into account? Is the 100k resistor lowering the voltage of the battery for that amount as it goes for a loop back into the 1k resistor that goes to the LED? Or is this loop idea I have in my head incorrect and not how dc circuits work? I'm a little lost here because I thought I read that LED diodes were polarized... so I'm confused why the led is dimming if the 100k resistor is after, on the negative pin of the led.
>>2879827> 100k resistor lowering the voltageNo. It lowers the current.If you measure the voltage of the battery through a 100 kΩ resistor with a DMM it will be pretty much the same as measuring it directly on the battery.On the other hand, the resistor will cause a voltage drop across it when it starts limiting the current and the circuit is under a significant load. A DMM provides negligible current draw.
>>2879854So the current will be reduced regardless even if it's at the end, it will go into the battery and then add up with 1k and meet at the led with 101k in total resistance? I thought because it was at the end and reaching the battery, it would be ignored because of dioes being polarized. I was confused how it was resisting with the 100k resistor if it wasn't before the positive lead of the led.
>>2879870They're all in series, doesn't matter if they're before or after the LED, the current flows through all of them in a closed loop. Voltage drop V = I*R. If you flipped that LED around it wouldn't let any current flow (well a tiny bit would leak but ignore that), so the LED is still polarised.
>>2879870Play around with the circuit in a sim. You'll get a better feel for things. I changed the component values, but the principal is the same.https://www.falstad.com/circuit/>File > Import From Text$ 1 0.000005 10 50 5 50 5e-11v 320 368 320 240 0 0 40 10 0 0 0.5r 320 240 448 240 0 100162 448 240 448 368 2 default-led 1 0 0 0.01r 448 368 320 368 0 1000p 240 240 240 368 3 0 1 0p 528 240 528 368 3 0 1 0w 448 368 528 368 0w 448 240 528 240 0w 320 240 240 240 0w 320 368 240 368 0O 448 240 448 192 3 1O 448 368 448 416 1 138 1 F1 0 0 5000 -1 Resistance38 3 F1 0 0 5000 -1 Resistance
Does anyone know of a through hole (or even SMD) component with 4 transistors on it specifically for being implemented as a latch?I hate having to use big ass SR latch chips and especially 555 timers... but funnily enough they're still cheaper than 4 discreet transistors and caps+resistors. I've been doing some light googling and and quite surprised this isn't something being made, surely I'm just stupid.
Is this a fuse?
>>2879827>How is the LED dimming taking the 100k resistor into account?heh, this is a great question. you should get a breadboard kit and play around sonnyit doesn't matter what side a resistor is on a LED because electricity moves in a circuit. you know how a battery doesn't instantly short itself out across air right? same concept for resistors and diodes.the negative potential being felt by the LED from is still much lower. you might imagine current piling up into the LED before it hits the resistor, but current doesn't flow like that. the resistor, regardless of its position impedes the flow.circuits are a chain, they're not a hose. when a current is flowing, not only does it mean theres a positive source of charge, but there is a negative drain of it as well. the positive electrons cannot flow out of the battery if the negative side of the chain is being tied down, OR they will be slowed down in the positive side even if the resistor is only at the negative sidehope any of this helps
>>2879935Maybe? It could also be a ferrite bead, maybe CL stands for "ceramic inductor/choke". Either way it's got thick pads and so is likely carring substantial current.Maybe if you find CL1 you might get a hint. It looks like they're doing less than standard abbreviations, TSL1 for an IC or module and RP1 for a resistor array are not something I've ever seen.
>>2879934first tryhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_7400-series_integrated_circuitsSpecifically 74LS279
>>287993474LVC1G__ chips are your friend. Little single-gate versions of standard 7400 logic chips, often in SOT-23-5/6 or smaller packages. You could go for a DFF, a JKFF, or just a dual NAND or NOR gate (with 2G instead of 1G in the name, for obvious reasons).555s are ok though, they make it easy to implement debouncing if you've got button inputs, they can also drive decent loads, but the output voltage drop is pretty bad.
>>2879935the datasheet of the connected device could give a hint
>>2876653Hai I'm retard. Do you have references for good drivers I could use to build speakers? My last pair broke, its been 10 years. I'll build the cabinets, just need references for good drivers these days.
>>2879935https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/605462/can-anyone-identify-this-smd
>>2879934You might be able to get away with a standard inverter debounce circuit and use a single-transistor RTL-style inverter. The capacitor is usually around 1 μF.
>>2879935> CL2This is a “loading capacitor” sometimes used in conjunction with crystals.A fuse would probably have a silkscreen with “F” or something. It’s only somewhat standardized., e.g. TR vs. Q for transistors.
>>2879985It's a 100nF HV cap for ESD protection on an ethernet connector.
Why did they need to add that IC to the new version of the oil burning circuit? Seemed to work fine with the little regulator. Is it for malware or saftey feature?
>>2879937I guess basically what I'm asking/still confused about is, is the 100k resistor affecting the LED to left side first connected to the negative lead of the LED, or is it affecting the battery (current) to the right in this case? For some reason I thought the 100k resistor would be ignored because it's after the LED, and going into the battery's negative terminal. I thought all of the current coming out of the battery's positive terminal would start fresh at the max voltage/current of the battery which is why I was confused when the LED dimmed as if I had put the 100k resistor before the positive terminal of the LED. Every little experiment I'm following from ebooks has all the components after the positive terminal of the battery which is why it threw a wrench and surprised me when I did this little experiment and saw that it dimmed harshly.I'm saving up money for one of those breadboard kits. I'm using a cheap $10 kit for now that comes with some resistors, capacitors, diodes, led's and some npn transistors and wiring everything up with a shit load of wire I found in the trash. For now I guess it's enough to get the basics of these basic components down before buying one of those nifty breadboard kits.
Does anyone know what these are called circled in red and what's the cheapest and decently reliable one I can buy from Amazon? I don't need anything hardcore with high output, just enough for a breadboard to experiment with led's, transistors, and those tiny transformers for speaker kits.
>>2880034>what these are calledlab power supply
>>2880034variable benchtop DC power supply
>>2877688the only thing you need to do is take the IC and follow the typical application circuit, at least for your particular application it's piece of cake. The only thing you have to "calculate" is trace impedance and be careful of which passive components you use
>>2880034You already have dc power supplies that work great for breadboard. Those plugs you charge things with take in 120 and deliver whatever is listed. Just cut the ends off and stick em where ever you need powah.
if i'm designing a flyback for variable load (meaning it will cross between CCM and DCM) should i design it for DCM or CCM?
>>2880013Starting out, assume that everything is calculated with the “steady state” of the system… after it has been running a while. And, in this circuit it is after a few nanoseconds.If you imagine a system of water pipes, and a resistor is a constriction and a diode is a one-way valve, you would see that the same steady-state volume of water flows through the one-way valve regardless of which side of the one-way valve you place the constriction.
>>2880013either you're extremely retarded or trollinghook up an LED to the positive terminal of a battery but nothing else, why doesn't it explode? don't you dare reply to me again without actually quoting me either you faggot
>>2880117Not sure what that means. I still don't know why the led dims. Is the resistor affecting the led first or the battery's current as it goes in for the 2nd loop to the 1k resistor? I'm only like 2 weeks into electronics, sparing about 1hr per day watching vids here and there.
>>2880145okay, let’s take this slowly:1. if you put a 1k resistance across a 10 volt source, do you know how to calculate the current?2. do you understand that doubling the resistor to 2k halves the current?3. do you understand that putting two 1k resistors in series results in the same current as using one 2k resistor?please keep your reply brief, these are yes/no questions.
>>2880145The LED glows when current flows through it. Current can't flow in if it can't flow out. The 100k resists the current that is trying to flow out of the LED.Link some of the videos you're watching. I want to know if you're completely retarded, or just misled and only slightly retarded.
im retarded when it comes to dc-dc converters. if i want to make -20V from +5V, do i just pick components for Vin = +25V and Vout = +20V, and then connect the output to ground and use the chip's ground as the -20V rail? and i just need to check that the IC can sink the required amount of current?
>>2880167>and i just need to check that the IC can sink the required amount of current?actually i think the current still flows in the same direction so im double retarded.
>>2880167> fixed 700 kHzI listen to WLW Cincinnati and I will find that annoying.>>2880171If you’re worried about it, set up an oscillator with your 5V using a couple of transistors, set up a frequency that won’t interfere with Les Nessman (preferably sine-wave-ish) and wind a toroidal isolated transformer for 20 V, then rectify and filter it, then hook the positive up to your 0 V—5 V rail at the 0 V. The other end will be -20 V.Make it 24 V and regulate it if you need it to be less affected by load.
>>2880183>I listen to WLW Cincinnati and I will find that annoying.how bout some spectrum spread?>If you’re worried about it, set up an oscillator...or i could spend two bucks on a HotRod™
I have kicad but no idea how to use it, how would I modify an open source keyboard PCB>like the Lotus_58_glow_1.4.2to use a horizontal rotary encoder instead of a more typical vertical one?
>>2880189you find the footprint in the PCB editor and turn it sideways.
>>2880189>>2880190oh lmao i just realized what you meant by vertical vs. horizontal.do you have a particular encoder picked out already? post the name and ill tell you what to do.
>>2880192EVQWGD001
>>2880194aight heres a quick footprint.https://file.io/yyzUFXrTKfEQi dont really know how rotary encoders work and i cant find a pinout for this one so youre on your own for figuring out the wiring. 6 is ground tho.
>>2880189>>2880194fuck bro, this is a bit ambitious for someone who's never used kicad before, but i can do it for you tomorrow if youre still around.g'night thread!
>>2880197>>2880202I wont tell the other boards you're actually based, thank you
>>2880148>>2880161No, I understand how resistors work, what I'm confused about is the current. So basically if a resistor is put anywhere in the circuit, is that same resistance still carried into the battery's negative terminal, to the positive, out again to 1k, then the led? That's basically what I'm confused about. Is the current agnostic to where the battery is placed?
>>2880251I ask because when I measure the voltage after the led, it's at 1.7v, but when it comes out of the battery it's at 2.9ish volts. I thought what ever was before the negative lead of the battery was ignored and it would start again at what ever max voltage/current the battery puts out based on it's energy level.
guys...
>>2880286Friar Fuck will gladly pay you Tuesday for a motor driver today.
>>2880228alright, we're gonna have to make some compromises with the placement of this thing:A) wont be centered (will be about 2mm to the right of where the vertical encoder would normally be).B) should be okay.C) wont be centered (will be about 2mm to the right of where the vertical encoder would normally be).D) will be maybe 2.5mm lower than the normal encoder.its probably possible to do all four at once but if you have a preferred placement i could just do that.
>>2880293> encoder on fancy keyboardWhy don’t you put the encoder in a separate box, and use a 4-pin external connector, and wire it in parallel. That way you won’t wreck you keyboard, both encoders will work, and you can place it in a non-stupid position. You could use something small and ubiquitous like mini-usb, I think that has 4 wires. I see these weighted, external, volume control knobs a lot, and those seem pretty cool.BTW, what does the encoder do? Is it for Pong, Breakout, Tron and/or Tempest video games?That would be cool. Also, seems good for software oscilloscopes. Those touch screen oscilloscopes are terrible for such a traditional UI.
>>2880251>>2880258Read this through at least page 12https://archive.org/details/the-art-of-electronics-3rd-ed-2015_202008/page/n33/mode/2up
>>2880258A diode is not like a resistor.The resistor will drop a voltage across it proportional to the current.A diode has a fixed, specific voltage drop as far as your concerned. For germanium diodes, it’s .3 volts, Silicon diodes, .7 V, and depending on the color of the diode, it depends on what they are made of. You can assume this voltage drop is a fixed value, unlike a resistor.
>>2880258Voltage is relative. Regardless of how much you swap around the LED and two resistors, the voltage drop across each component will be the same, and the current through the system will be the same. Doesn't matter where they are, for a series circuit an electron has to pass through each component, one way or another.See Kirchhoff's laws:>voltage adds in series and is constant in parallel>current adds in parallel and is constant in series
>>2880298Wow, this explained it all in two short paragraphs. This book is way better than what I'm currently reading. This cleared up the confusion between volts and current now. Thank you anon. Gonna use this book from now on.
>>2876653Hiya guys, shitty fucking welder here. Had a quarter life crisis and finally decided to start pursuing an Electronics Degree. Just curious if there are any CANADIANS here willing to give me advice on what jobs are out there, going for an Electronics Engineering diploma here in Edmonton. I was looking around at jobs and they seem pretty sparse. Is it worth it or is this line of work facing the same CompSci bullshit of no entry level jobs? I looked around on indeed 'n shit but there really wasn't that much. Basically was looking for work along the lines of board design for industrial applications. Any advice would be great!
This red wire is the factory solder for a batteryI've never undone it, but it may have had some strain. Does it look like it could pose a problem? I don't know much, but you can sort of see the individual strands(?) of the wire and it doesn't look tinned. Could it be a poor connection or it doesn't matter as long as they're all flowing to the solder point?The battery does have issues though it's to do with detecting the correct battery level and charging. Second question, is buying cheap batteries on AliExpress bad? Are they safe or possibly dangerous? It's for a ps controller.
200-watt resistors
Don't know what these things are for, have 11 of them, 1 of the labels says arduino r3 development board set. These thing worth anything or should I just chuck them ?
>>2880352
>>2880352Man, I would kill to have one of those kits. I've had one on my wishlist for the past 5 months, waiting for them to go down in price to snatch one at the lowest price it's gone to. Sucks being poor. Why the fuck do you have 11 of them and not know what they do? Are you just flexing on us poors?
>>2880355So I take that they are worth money & will seel.This will piss you off, There was an auction had 2 boxed of battery chargers, I just wanted 1 battery charger but not for the price of 1 ($40). So I bid on the lot won it for $32 came with a bunch of other crap.Now I have these things & some other electronics stuff I have no idea what its for & 76 new nitecore d4 battery chargers.
>>2880352You could probably sell them for $10-20 each, maybe more. Where I work we sell those for like $60-130, depending on size. They’re useful, you can do quite a lot with the parts included, those Arduino Uno boards themselves can be programmed with a computer to perform low-level digital tasks. Like monitoring for button presses, reading values from sensors (humidity, temperature, light intensity, rpm, force, decibels, etc.), displaying values on little screens, logging data onto an SD card, that sort of thing. The barrier to entry for programming them is really low too, so long as you’re doing simple stuff.>>2880355They’re piss cheap on AliExpress. Are you in some shithole with $2 wage or bureaucrats who steal your postage? Or just a NEET with small tendie allowance?
>>2880356Hell yeah, they will sell. Everything is so marked up right now so even if you sell it for less than what is advertised atm, you will still okay money. If they are legit arduino and not chinese clones, they're worth even more and you will move them faster if you sell it between the price of the chinese clones and the real arduinos, depends though, considering they're returns and they're already opened. I wonder why they returned them or what's missing or bait and switched.Nitecore is a legit company, they're always innovating and trying different things. You can move those chargers to vapers or flashlight fanatics since those are the hobbies that use 18650s and 21700 chargers a lot. Nitecore is a legit brand and have a loyal fan base amongsts flashlight hobbyists/edc/campers/outdoors people.
>>2880358>>2880369Can't say Id know what to do with them, getting a return is nice but not looking to cash in, just want to move them along, I'd be at like $5 on them lolI'm suprised there wasn't more interest with the Nitcore, thats like $3,000 retail value. Even those I'll move cheap just to get the stack reduced a little, like 2 for not even the price of 1.
>>2880358Because I want to get the Mega 2560 kit that comes with all the nifty 37 sensors and the extra wires kit so I can buy once, cry once. It's on amazon for about $90. I could probably piece it for less than $50 on aliexpress, but I don't know which stores or boards to trust. I need to read up on the different board model numbers and what they mean. This one is the one I want to piece from aliexpress. Last time I researched it I think it was only like $40-$50, but I don't know much about Arduino boards and their clones, only that I want to dive into it since I already have some amateur programming experience and am learning basics of electrical at the moment. I'm poor and in a poverty trap atm, so getting burned on something that isn't quality even if it's just $50 is painful.
>>2880378Try the flashlight forums and flashlight facebook groups. It might be tough to sell them individually since they are pretty suspicious of newcomers and inter-forum or fb group sales since there's a lot of scammers, but if you live in a big city or near one, you're bound to find someone who is more trusted in the group that might take them off your hands wholesale and they can resell them. Nitecore chargers are usually the standard/trendsetters in the 18650/21700 flashlights/vape communities. They make good stuff that just works.
>>2880385>flashlight forums and flashlight facebook groupsgeez, people have some pretty weird sexual kinks
>>2880381>but I don't know which stores or boards to trustNews flash, Amazon is no better than AliExpress, unless you can verify that you’re buying directly from someone like Adafruit or SparkFun. Ali sells kits too.
>>2880405There's something primal about liking flashlights, I just can't quite put my finger on it.>>2880407Amazon has an amazing return policy though. You will get 100% of your money back as long as you put that it's damaged. There's a couple variations of the Mega 2560 board and I need to do some research on what the difference of all the other model numbers of the mega 2560 are/do. I just want to buy a non-wifi/bluetooth do-it-all board just to get my feet wet with the sensors and programming that almost all non-wifi/bluetooth projects. I just want to buy everything I need at once that way it doesn't turn out that I need another board or sensor to do some project. Someone a while back told me that the Mega 2560 Rev 3 is what I wanted to get I wouldn't even mind this kit for now if it was for sale for $20. No way I'm paying $60 or what ever they're asking for it right now for what seems to be about $15 worth of parts.
>>2880411>Amazon has an amazing return policy thoughI guess so. What are you wanting to do with the Arduino Mega?
One of my self-made LED lights have failed (fuse blown). Pic related.Let's make a guess what did fail.I guess one good thing. Aliexpress fusible resistors are fusible.
so electromagnets ought to have a diode, but where on the physical wire does the diode go?also just wanted to clarify if the diode is to keep electricity from flowing back to the battery.
>>2880447It was a diode bridge. DB207... Doubt that, because I did calculate inrush current and it shouldn't be nowhere close to the limits of the bridge. I guess I got chinked, but since I have no other spares, it got exact same diode bridge.
>>2880451I get bridge failures all the time.One thing that causes them to fail is bad light switches that arc, or plugging it in to the outlet sometimes causes an arc that takes out the bridge.Now I look like an autist plugging in LED lights, I align it bring it close and then thrust it in decisively to minimize arcing.The other thing that has caused bridges to die is having them near an old incandescent light dimmer when it’s in use.On your next iteration put some MOVs and a snubber network in there, and use 1000 V rated diodes.
>>2880450Your diode is in anti-parallel with the coil. In other words, in parallel with it, but oriented such that current won't flow through it when the switch/transistor is turned on. Look up images or tutorials for "freewheel diode" or "flyback diode" to see more into. Pic related.>>2880451I guess those 10Ω resistors are to limit inrush current? I don't see why it would blow up the rectifier. The other anon might be right about spikes, some MOV protection (and chokes and X2 caps) might help.Also is that an aluminium-backed PCB?
Can someone gift me an oscillator this Christmas
>>2880464>I guess those 10Ω resistors are to limit inrush current?Yeah, also fuses. >Also is that an aluminium-backed PCB?Plain FR4>>2880458I guess... I wonder if I can get away with just bodging an X2 cap and MOV.
Can anyone help my clarify what's going on with the transformer and current direction in this experiment? I understand that the initial d/c voltage creates an a/c current, which magnetically passes to the other side of the transformer and it ceases after the initial surge because it's d/c from the battery side. What I'm confused about is what it means on "creates a new current on the other side of the transformer". Is it talking about the #23 and #25 side because the voltage drop is pulling ions on the #21 and #22 side creating a tiny a/c current on #23 and #25?And what does it mean by "but this time in the opposite direction"? I understand #23 and #25 is generating a tiny amount of a/c current when you press and release the switch, but I guess I'm not understanding how the current from the switch PUSH dictates only current going to LED #1, and the switch RELEASE dictates current in the LED #2 direction only? Why isn't it lighting up LED #1 in the same manner it lit LED #1 when the switch was pressed the first time? I'm confused on what's dictating the direction of the current towards LED #1 and #2 on the PUSH and RELEASE as I was under the impression it would light up LED #1 first again like during the initial PUSH since a/c current is coming out of #23 and #25 on both the PUSH and RELEASE.
>>2880486A transformer passes current when the magnetic field fluctuates (alternating current or pulsed DC, off-on-off-on etc,). When you push the button, a magnetic field is induced in the primary coil of the transformer. The magnetic field is coupled to the secondary coil through the iron core of the transformer, stepping the voltage up or down depending on the configuration. When the button is released, the magnetic field collapses and induces a current in the opposite polarity (back EMF). The LEDs act as a check valve to allow current to pass in one direction. Since the LEDs are anti-parallel to one another, one flashes with forward current when the button is pushed and the other flashes with the back EMF pulse when the button is released.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_currentRun some simulations here:https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html
>>2880486https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?ctz=CQAgjCAMB0l3BWcMBMcUHYMGZIA4UA2ATmIxAUgoqoQFMBaMMAKADcRMVxjuvwALAKgiBVYiKowELAM6cM3MEJDZCeQcKoQALgCcArnRZ7V6zSCEblW5CwDuCpbyed8UB67QarbjZBYAFUsBaxUEMD53KVgIaSJsMAQMPGIBHHUBbikoaFJiFjBCbgQXGwoXb04QABM6ADMAQwMAGx0GFroa8ElcyFYikpUqhBVy7jqm1vbO7rjJWM8IpXCxlQDHZb8KYeilteFSla194RHKvYAPbbAMCBQBJFvhYWUQYgA1ABEAYRZrhAoDQobBIBClTjYHzgbgAGQAol9WACsJCkIR3CDoZEQAivigWAB7aqEWxiUh9eAYYrEbBpBCJFBIGDwSBkQgIYrM6rcbBEkDkUmiNkSFlUml0x6M5mweDszlMnrcch84mEEBCqjk0WyuDUlC0+nSylweVcnka1QsIA
>>2880486you're reading too much into the term acin this example they aren't talking about wiggly power, just the single rising and falling edge provided by the push button.
I have a trash motor I want to spin. 120V but it’s got 10 wires. Marking where wires terminate for L,N and M1-M5. Then some wires for a cap and ground. There’s lowere resistance between m1-m2 and m3,m4 and m5 has most resistance to m1 at 140 ohm and 59ohm to m4. I don’t work with a lot of motors but I’d like that to be different. Plugging in L and N does nothing and there 6volts to each of the other windings. Jumping things around randomly doesn’t help but I haven’t smelled any burning so maybe there’s a way. Just tell me this isn’t like a stepper that needs some modulation to drive it.
>>2880475Sure, I’ve got a collection of HC-49s. How many MHz do you want?>>2880503Probably a 2-phase induction motor. You’ll need a start/run cap. Look up some wiring diagrams for induction motors and their caps.
>>2880532Oh shit I meant oscilloscope
>>2880503Pic of motor would help.Run the leads through a light bulb to limit the current so you don’t burn out any (more) windings.Also, what did it come out of? A furnace?
>>2880540Not him, but I’m guessing it’s an upright fan motor, with what I assume to be seperate windings for different speed settings.
Are there any practice solder sets that are better than others? I want to practice soldering smaller components, no solely micro soldering.
>>2880532>>2880540I have looked for diagrams mostly what’s comes up is wye configuration for single phase motors but that doesn’t seem right because there’s two wires that come out of the motor to a capacitor and there were only two pairs that had low enough resistance to ring the multimeter. Motor is from an upright air filter like the anon said and it definitely had variable speed so how do I make it spin? Wanted the 10kv ionizer but that doesn’t seem to work either.
>>2880565Decided to wire it up by feel. That made it spin but then it popped and smoked and now it smells bad in here -_-
>>2880565>>2880582That's a microwave oven exhaust fan. The wire leads are (hot) taps at different points of the coil for low, medium, and high speed, plus the run capacitor and neutral return. Hot to black, neutral to white, and one of the colored leads to black/hot.
>>2880565>>2880582You have neutral connected to the motor housing so that's not right. Omit the ground wire.
>>2880589Thanks for the help but Im not 100% it’s not supposed to be that way. I see a lot of manufactures bond earth and neutral esp if there’s only a two prong plug. Either way I smoked it for good being stupid. I think the resistance would have been lower if my 30 ohm “pairs” were actually two ends of the same coil. So it’s more likely I was supposed to use neutral as a common, find the one that used the cap to start first and then switch it to another single wire to run at a speed.
>>2880491>>2880500Thank you anon, the reversed polarity made it all make sense now. Didn't know that/emf was a thing and the falstad diagram visualized and cleared it up even more.>>2880502No, that I understood hence why it only blinks once and doesn't stay on, I just didn't know about the reversed current flow in the opposite direction when the magnetic field collapses. Now the circuit to LED #2 makes sense with having that in context.
Are the physical dimensions of a capacitor important?I bought a used record player (modern $40 kind) for a few bucks, and it had no sound. When I opened it up, I saw that one of the capacitors had literally exploded. There were bits of it all over the inside, including the outer shell rattling around in there.According to the shell, it was 470μF and 16V. I just so happen to have some 470μF 16V capacitors on hand, but the one that exploded was tall and skinny and I believe the ones I have are shorter and fatter.Assuming I can get the new one to physically fit on the board/get the pins to go through the holes, does the difference in physical size/shape matter?
>>2880665Actually I just found the ones I have and they're the same height, but way fatter. Like twice as wide.Same question, though.
tried asking in 3 or 4 threads on /g/ but they all ignored me since it wasnt trolling or os shitflinging.can computer psus run on 240v split phase or does it have to be single phase? I want to run a small server setup in my garage with both a standard atx psu and some ones on a netapp ds4243. apparently 240v makes it noticeably more efficient (about 10%) and my 240 socket isn't doing anything anyway.
>>2880665Follow-up, would clamping/pure contact provide enough of a circuit for a capacitor to work at all whatsoever for testing purposes, or does it really need to be soldered?This circuit board is kind of a bitch to work on so I'd like to verify if the new capacitor will actually fix it before I solder it in, or if whatever blew it up might have fucked up other parts of the board too in less-obvious ways.I pulled all the innards off of the remains of the old one until it was just two metal bars jutting off the circuit board, and then pinned the new capacitor's legs between them in the correct orientation. Didn't fix the issue.Do I REALLY have to solder it to know if it'll fix it, or would the physical contact have been enough to make the speakers do literally anything if it were going to fix the issue at all?
>>2880674Yes, I've ran a small rack on 240V split phase.
>>2880665>Are the physical dimensions of a capacitor important?no, if it fits, it sitsif it doesnt fit, run short extension wires>would clamping/pure contact provide enough of a circuit yes, but it's iffyyou'd usually hold it between 2 fingers and give it a twist to ensure it's contacting the sides of the holes>>2880674>run on 240v split phase or does it have to be single phase?split phase IS single phase, just doubled in sizeit's obvious, but dont forget to set the voltage selector to 240
>>2880665The size of an electrolytic capacitor reflects a few things:>capacitance and voltage rating: capacitors have X energy density, a 40µF 100V cap should be twice as large as a 20µ 100V cap, and the same size as a 640µ 25V cap>year: old caps will generally be larger for the same energy storage>ESR: capacitors with low series resistance will usually be bulkier than standard capsAll of this applies to any given dielectric technology to one extent or another.If you have a cap that's larger, it might just be older, or it might have a lower ESR. Low-ESR caps are sometimes problematic to install when inrush current is an issue, but it's usually fine. You can look up the datasheet of your cap if you're worried. If it's without a good brand name or model number, it's probably just older/shittier, it should be ok.>>2880684I wonder if it would be fine if his "240V power" was actually 208V or whatever from two of three phases? Some apartments apparently do this.
>>2880684>you'd usually hold it between 2 fingers and give it a twist to ensure it's contacting the sides of the holesSince the remnant of the old one was already soldered in and had two convenient metal poles, I just pinned the new one's legs between them like pic related.Given that I had bent the metal into place, I feel like it should've been decent pressure for contact.I guess if I want to be absolutely sure, I could solder the new capacitor onto those poles instead of soldering it into the board, just to see if that makes a difference. It'd be a lot easier.
>>2880688Well, I soldered the new one on (not to the actual board, but to the old capacitor's pegs so it should've been in the circuit regardless) and no dice, so I'm assuming that whatever blew up the capacitor also fried some other chip or something on the board at the same time. I think it's beyond my ability to troubleshoot now.What would cause an exploded capacitor anyway? Severe overvolting?The thing didn't come with a power cable and it's supposed to take a 5V DC barrel connector, so I wonder if someone didn't read the input and just plugged in a 12V/24V adapter instead.
>>2880681>>2880684much appreciated >split phase IS single phase, just doubled in sizehuh?
>>2880712the power going to your home is 120V. in order to run 240V appliances, you use two separate 120V lines that are out of phase with each other, one is "plus" and one is "minus" (theyre symmetrical, in actuality). the difference of two sine waves with the same frequency is just another sine wave. your PSU cant tell the difference.if the two lines are 180 degrees out-of-phase, its easy to see that the result is just a 240V sine wave. if the two lines are 120 degrees out-of-phase, thats harder to imagine and the math is more involved, but the result is a 208V sine wave (208 ≈ 120 * sqrt(3)).also note that 120V is really the RMS voltage; the actual peak voltage is 120 * sqrt(2) ≈ 170, and 208 * sqrt(2) ≈ 294 (pic rel). but you dont have to worry about any of that.
>>2880712So there's like 10kv transformer on the pole outside your houseIt goes from 10kv to 240v that's windings. Your home getd the 240v. That's one of the 10kv phases. There's probably (not necessarily) 3 10kv phases there. Those are all 120 degrees offset from each other because of how generators worked in the 1900s.If you're in the US the 240v winding has a tap in the middle of it thats bonded to ground at the transformer and at your house its bonded to ground and neutral. One side of this 240v winding is +120 with respect to the center tap. The other is -120. This voltage is still ac going up and down but it's always going to be dead locked at 180 degrees off from each other because they're actually the same phase onto one windng thats split in the middle.A lot of the EU apparently gives all 3 phases to most customers now. I think one is 244v and then they can get 488v at high power appliances?Us 3 phase is usually 208 or 488v.
>>2880709>I'm assuming that whatever blew up the capacitor also fried some other chip or something on the board at the same timeUpon very close inspection, it turns out that this was exactly the case.Melted IC.I think I'm going to take a shot at fixing it. I've never soldered an IC before, but a replacement is only a few dollars.
>>2880796>A lot of the EU apparently gives all 3 phases to most customers now. I think one is 244v and then they can get 488v at high power appliances?single phase in the EU was 220, UK was 240. then they 'harmoised' and both became 220 in theory while in practice retaining their original voltages and specifying a suitable tolerance: the voltage in europe is now 220(/-6%)the voltage measured between phases therefore is 380v in mainland europe and 415v in the UK, the specified voltage is 405v? or something idk.
>>2880803Your board needs a shave.
>>2880786>>2880796yes yes I already know all of that, my confusion is with what I quoted that he said. I don't understand what he meant by that.
>>2877860Okay. Prof of one failed subject fucked up and because of this all failed people can take extra task to fix their situation. Unexpected but what do i pick?I have two options: >test>implement risc-v pipelined CPU in sysverilog. I am kinda feeling like implementing risc-v CPU, because I have more time to check it, even though I forgot everything about FPGA programming.
>>2880819Do the more difficult task if you want to learn and improve.
With an oscilloscope, in what situations would I ever want to use less-than-maximum memory depth?I do understand the use cases for deliberately limiting bandwidth, for example. But I cannot imagine why I would ever limit the memory depth. Yet every scope has that setting, so it must be useful for something, right?
Does anyone have a recommendation for the cheapest soldering station I can get on AliExpress or Amazon that isn't a pain in the ass to melt solder from components? I currently have one of the pen kinds and even after it warms up, it's a pain to get it melt anything without taking too long. What's an okay cheap soldering station type you guys recommend that is better than those pen handle kinds? These pen kinds are going to make me pull my hair out.
>>2880842> heats up fastGet a soldering gun
>>2880825It’s a hold-over from when oscilloscopes had 1.44 MB floppy drives to store the waveforms.
>>2880805Lol, what a mess. In japan, it’s just 100 volts DC everywhere… a nice round number.Maybe they should “go metric” in the EU and UK some day.
>>2880853>100 volts DCThe sky is made of wires in Tokyo. Thanks, Edison.
>>2880819Spend a day attempting the CPU to see if you have the noggin for it without a month of revision. If not, exam it is.>>2880842T12s and similar (pinecil, etc.) are solid. Ones with a 7-seg display are cheaper than the OLEDs, ones with a built in PSU can be dodgy so check local thrift stores for 19-24V laptop bricks to run one on. You can go cheaper with a 936 iron with digital temperature control, but it’s not really that much cheaper. Even the T12 tips are piss cheap these days, I’ve been using $2 tips without them falling apart for years now.
reposting from /g/I got this power bank that lets you swap out the LiPo battery like you're reloading itI know it's some fag shit but I think its pretty coolI already had some Samsung 35E 18650 batteries that I use for a flashlight so I also will use those with the 18650 adapterIs this shit gonna explode on me?What batteries would you guys suggest is safest? I'm looking at vape forums for the safety question but figured you guys have different incentives than people fueling their nicotine addictions
>>2880920Vape guys use batteries specifically designed for high power output, like 10A or more. Charging phones you don't need that, but with some of the really fast quick charge standards you might get close. With a fully discharged cell down at 2.5V, outputting the full 20W that thing is rated at, you're pulling 8A, though not for very long until it cuts off. You might be pulling 6A for minutes on end though. Personally I'm anti quick-charge because it's not great for the extended lifespan of your phone's battery, but if you're a /g/ consoomer who buys a new phone every year or two then it doesn't really matter.If anything, I'd just go for name-brand cells, like Samsung or Toshiba. If they can output the current you need, go for the nice large 3500mAh 18650s, or whatever a 21700 is with the same energy density. The vape cells (e.g. 2500mAh high current) do have lower capacities, but are less likely to overheat when outputting high power for fast charging. I'd look for a table of all the Samsung cells to see which capacities and power ratings (and lifespans) you can expect.Yes, the 9000mAh 18650s from Ultrafire have fake specs. But where are you going to store your other batteries? In a tacticool magazine?It's not going to blow up on you more than any other lithium ion charger, especially since it looks like it has a good suite of protection features.FYI, LiPo refers to the polymer pouch batteries found in phones and drones, not cylindrical cells.
>>2880842I got something like this and it works very well for me. Get something with a screen so you know that it is on
>>2880928Yeah, I would guess that vape cells are designed not to explode in the hands of retards, so I think whatever standards were used for them makes them among the safest bet.
When it comes to capacitor aging does the amount of current that flows in and out of it over time play some role?
>>2880990There are several factors, but heat and voltage are the two big ones. The rule of thumb is to use capacitors that are rated at twice the voltage of the circuit that it's part of. Meaning that you use 25V caps in a 12V circuit so they don't get battered by transient voltage spikes. Excess or prolonged heat can dry out electrolytic caps and knock them out of tolerance or kill them completely. Just stay within spec and the caps will live a normal life.
Hey all, some months ago I bought a Phat Playstation 3 CECHE11 that had dead NEC-TOKIN capacitors for the RSX (the GPU), making it fail to boot. After parasite-soldering a random cap I had laying around and confirming it could boot to the main menu just fine, I proceeded to remove all of those caps, grind the silk screen to accommodate for the size of, for each removed TOKIN, 3x 470uF "low ESR" caps from AliExpress my uncle bought for me from the US (not the smartest decision, a lot of times these are actually faulty and are high ESR, but it was a gift so I can't complain), and solder them. While grinding the silk screen for the negative side of the caps, I accidentally overdid it, and didn't realize I was actually grinding beyond the copper layer, going to an entirely new level. Oops.I ignored this, tinned the copper I could successfully expose, and tried installing the new caps. After installing them and trying to power up the console, it still fails to boot, and the console's syscon chip indicates a 3003 error. Quoting the PS dev wiki:> This error will occur in the case of a PWR failure on the main core voltage of the CPU (VDDC). CPU Bulk filter caps (Eg. NEC/TOKIN) or any SMD in the Feedback and Compensation network of the Voltage Regulation module (VRM). Including the Buck Converters (AKA IOR Power Blocks).It's also worth noting that, for some reason, + and - for the cap pads have continuity on my multimeter. I am not sure if that's okay, if not maybe that has something to do with the obliterated copper layer from before? It could also be that the caps are faulty, I don't know. I am not sure what to do, I have it sitting in a box waiting to be repaired.
>>2881011>While grinding the silk screen>grindingPlease tell me it was a pneumatic angle grinder.
>>2881015ESL momento. I grabbed a Dremel and put a certain bit that was a bit too destructive. I then later changed it to something more fine when I realized it was taking fucking chunks out of it
>>2881011If you're lucky, the "continuity reading" is just because there's a large capacitance and it's not yet charged up. If you measure for longer, maybe it will go from a continuity beep to no beep; the effective resistance will increase as the capacitor voltage increases.If you've replaced all of the tokins I believe you also need to connect the outer rails together, as the tokins act like jumpers. See MattKC's video where he happens to do the same repair.Normally you'd just scrape with a flat metal edge, instead of using a dremel. Solder mask chips off pretty easily.
>>2881028> If you're lucky, the "continuity reading" is just because there's a large capacitance and it's not yet charged up. If you measure for longer, maybe it will go from a continuity beep to no beep; the effective resistance will increase as the capacitor voltage increases.Oh, I should've mentioned, the continuity occurs both with and without the caps soldered.> If you've replaced all of the tokins I believe you also need to connect the outer rails together, as the tokins act like jumpers. See MattKC's video where he happens to do the same repair.Yes, I need to solder those rails once I install the smaller ceramic caps, but for now I am only installing the 470uF ones in the upper rails, I don't think I need to do the jumping just yet> Normally you'd just scrape with a flat metal edge, instead of using a dremel. Solder mask chips off pretty easily.Learned that after trying out the dremel first :S
>>2881029>the continuity occurs both with and without the caps solderedMight still be caps elsewhere on that rail, or maybe you're measuring through a buck converter's low-side diode, but it's not a good sign.>Yes, I need to solder those rails once I install the smaller ceramic capsI was under the impression you needed to solder them if you remove all of the TOKINs.Consider making yourself a 4-wire milliohm meter (i.e. a 9V battery and an LM317 current source and clamping diode paired with your DMM on mV mode) to measure about the place to find the source of the short; the source of the lowest impedance. If it is the dremelled mess (definitely possible), better start picking away at suspect areas with a craft knife.
>>2881032> Might still be caps elsewhere on that railI will be honest, I am quite new to electronics repair. I guess an schematic would help me in this case? If so, where can I find one?> I was under the impression you needed to solder them if you remove all of the TOKINs.I could definitely try, but just look at the picture, you can see the positive rails there (the ones on the bottom) are isolated, so the bridge would only be useful if I were to put caps there, which I'm not, since the three I'm using fit perfectly fine on the upper positive and negative rails> Consider making yourself a 4-wire milliohm meterI have no idea how to do that, but I'll see what I can search. Thanks :)
>>2880990>does the amount of current that flows in and out of it over time play some role?sure doesseen this dozens of times: - switching power supply with multiple rails- one cap gets bulgy after a few years- others caps work fine after 2 decades- it's *always* the cap on the rail with highest current- caps on higher voltage rails are fine, so it's not voltage causing harm, it's hard work- everyone knows pimpin' aint easy, but filterin's the worst
Whats with the pinout of these 4x7-segment display? I would think these would be perfect for taking the input out of an MCU's port, but instead I gotta do this cobweb shit
>>2881128fuck
>>2881140big oof. thats what you get for being rude in a frens-only thread.
> cobwebIf in can route those on a single side board, you can too.At least try, and if your skill level hasn’t improved, at least you’ll complain less about double sided boards.
I want to see what >>2881140 was...Does anyone know where the /diy/ threads are archived?
>>2881149I can see it via 4chanX, it may or may not have been archived to warosu in time. It was just a somewhat rude anon misreading "Whats with the pinout" as "what's the pinout", and spouting mockery for being unable to find the pinout via documents or via experimentation. Of course, the anon with the problem knows the pinout as he already has routed a netlist, but is just complaining about the way the pins are arranged. This misunderstanding and resulting lash-out was presumably sufficiently embarrassing that the rude anon deleted his post in shame. Many such cases.
>>2881153cheers
>>2881128>I would think these would be perfect for taking the input out of an MCU's portwhat kind of port? if youre bit-banging this with GPIOs then i dont see why you couldnt just reconfigure the pins.>>2881131consider yourself lucky youre even allowed to rats nest the whole thing. try cramming a dozen impedance-controlled lines on a board the size of a quarter. youre gonna have to accept that if it works, it works.
>>2881248>a dozen impedance-controlled lines on a board the size of a quarterThis is a job for machine elves.
>>2881248>what kind of port? if youre bit-banging this with GPIOs then i dont see why you couldnt just reconfigure the pins.thats what I ended up doing. seemed obvious in retrospective
>>2881281how can you complain about the order of the pins after you picked the order yourself lmao
What would be the "TempleOs" equivalent for electronics? As in, an impressive feat that would take a lot of knowledge from different areas
>design board to use LM3914 chips>works well>need more chips>none available locally>none available from LCSC, DigiKey, or any other reputable vendor>order from aliexpress instead>they act more like LM3915s with their response curve>brightness cannot be adjustedjust fuck my shit up
>>2881354Sadly, it has come time to redesign your PCB.If you have a lot of unpopulated PCBs then it might make sense, in the interim period, to re-create the `14’s functionality on an pin-for-pin carrier to replace it directly. You could probably make it better!Sell your replacement on etsy for those other poor slobs who bought into the zero stock/just-in-time manufacturing processes that caused the price of everything to go up during covid.
>>2881367>pin-for-pin carrierWell the boards were like 50c each so it's not really worth doing that, and it's a very space-constrained situation where a daughter board probably wouldn't fit.>Sell your replacement on etsyI'd have to sell them at like $10 each minimum, people are selling what I assume to be legit chips on eBay for less, but I'm not willing to chance it. Also ew, manual soldering labour.I'm considering making a microcontroller board with the same form-factor. I'd use fixed ~300Ω resistors to set the current through the LEDs and PWM them to customise brightness. But the current requirements may mean I need drive transistors, or maybe a transistor array.
>>2881334>"TempleOs" equivalent for electronics?there once was a faggit on /ohm/ that had some of Terry Davis' divine kook-genius qualitiesname on his passport was ''shopping cart rave guy''was canadian, if i recall
>>2881370> PWM them to customise brightnessOh, can I get the replacement LM3914 boards with a 3916 VU-meter curve option, and drive colour LEDs as well? Then I could do some interesting things with my clipping indicator. I’d buy that for $10.
>>2881371Whatever that machine is, I want to build it.
>>2881398It’s a watt-meter and dual alarm clock.I have one for my car, it goes up to 2 GW.
>>2881334maybe that z-something guy that's making chips in his garage
>>2881334Look mum no computer/this museum is not obsolete on eBay.He doesn't seem like he's gonna go off the deep end like Terry did. Just a young man that was born 20 years too late and is totally brilliant
>>2876653>YIHUA 948-II Soldering StationBought this today..https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007883866418.htmlTOTAL = AUD$399.18 (+Tax)I'm about to buy lots of different shaped Soldering Iron Tips..Anyone know what type that tip fitting is?Is it the 900M series?What tip material is the best?
>>2876653What's the safest yet cheapest way to power five of pic related?https://radxa.com/products/rock4/4bp/#techspec>USB Type‑C™ PD 2.0, 9V/2A, 12V/2Aor>Qualcomm® Quick Charge™ 2.0 QC3.0/2.0 adapter, 9V/2A, 12V/1.5Aor>Power adapter with fixed voltage in the 6V to 12V range on the USB C power portor5V Power applied to GPIO PIN 2 & 4Looking at a few USB-C PD PSUs, but I don't want to pay 70 to 100€ for a fucking PSU that might not even deliver 9V/2A on every port at the same time, they only advertise certain wattages during "all port use", no voltage or amperage.I've also read a forum saying to just use an industrial PSU which made me remember USB-PD trigger boards. Are there mini-PSUs that do the same just in the opposite direction (DC -> PD) which I could just clamp to an industrial 300W PSU that I've got laying around from an old 3d-printer I took apart?
Use an ATX PSU with fuses on the 5V rail for each SBC, or use CC/CV buck converters with a laptop power brick.
Any ideas on how I should drill accurate holes for a pi pico in my self etched pcb?i've tried center punch, but the holes are still not aligned in a straight line. pic related.I want to fit a female berg strip/header here on the pcb
>>2881549Mount a laser diode and secure the PCB to a sled (drill press table).https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Yk5aGlWWbU
>>2881549Short of making a CNC drilling machine, all I can suggest is making your drill-press as easy to use as >>2881561 suggests with a laser crosshair and good lighting and workholding, but also making your pads and traces larger. If you haven't already, include holes in the middle of each pad, hopefully that will help centre your drill bit. There's an option for it in KiCAD.
>>2881561>>2881568thanks frens
>>2881549>drill accurate holessuper fucking obviousmount a section of perfboard atop the PCBcant fuck it up no matter how cross-eyed you are
>>2881584Even better if you go for the perfboard with the plated holes, they'll last longer.
anyone else have problems installing kicad on linux?i've installed it via package manager (yay), but i found it didn't come with the footprints, symbols, and 3D models, so I used the package manager to install those too. they went into the right places (e.g. ~/usr/share/kicad/footprints) but kicad still doesn't see anything in there, even after configuring paths or managing libraries.also the screen zooms for eeschema and pcbnew are fucked, it keeps expanding the window to larger than it should, and the cursor isn't where it appears, like everything is incorrectly scaled from the top-left corner. it's arch + kde plasma.i'll probably ask on /g/fglt too.
>>2881584>>2881605ingenious idea, thanks
>>2881691Which distro? I'd just uninstall the distro packages and install the ones provided on the kicad site.
>>2881700Arch + KDE Plasma.>uninstall the distro packagesDo you mean KiCAD itself and the libraries? Because I'd much rather have it so I can update it (and its parts library) simply via yay or pacman. The footprints, symbols, and 3D models are in the right location, but pointing to them doesn't seem to work.There is a nightly but it wouldn't build.
>>2879000>iron, which is much worse than ferritei thought iron had better permeability and ferrite was only really better for high frequency shit due to lower hysteresis+eddy losses?
>>2881725Ferrite has no eddy currents.That’s why transformers use laminations of Si steel.
What magnifying glasses/w.e. do you guys use? Preferably something that can be used on/over regular prescription glasses.
I want to make a mouse wheel that can toggle between free scrolling and normal scrolling with detents, but im not sure about how to actually do itI know doing it mechanically with a ratcheting system is pretty standard, but im curious if there'd be a way that's more elegant. any ideas? i was thinking a bunch of magnets on the scroll wheel or maybe possibly a small motor (ive seen logitech use one before)
>>2881826Gooseneck ring light with 3x-5x magnifier for working on a PCB. For examination it's better to take a pic with your phone or a USB microscope and inspect it on a large screen. https://www.amazon.com/TOMSOO-Magnifying-Stepless-Magnifier-Gooseneck/dp/B0B8RZWW8Xhttps://www.amazon.com/Microscope-Bysameyee-Magnification-Endoscope-Compatible/dp/B07SR7YPV5
>>2881725I’ve got powdered iron toroids and their inductance is like 100 times lower than a similar sized ferrite toroid with the same turns. Maybe solid iron is somewhat better than powdered iron, and maybe a proper alloy like silicon steel is even better than ferrite, but this anon doesn’t have silicon steel, it’s likely just mild steel at best.>>2881828Magnetic detents due to a nearby coil being shorted or not?
>>2881725>>2881859The core material is selected based on the operating frequency, iron being better suited for low frequency applications like 50/60Hz phase cycle, and ferrites for higher frequencies found in SMPS and the like.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeability_(electromagnetism)
May i get a sanity check here?I want to make an arduino based remote controller for a monitor that uses an array of 3.3v voltage dividers to recongize the buttons pushed so i want to tap right next to it, however it goes straight into the CPU's integrated analog input and i really don't want to fry the thing in case inputs happen to overlap. How could i protect the input and do i need to do it at all?
>>2881894How could it feed a dangerous voltage into the ADC, if the MCU’s ADC is powered by 3.3V, and your resistor ladder is also powered by 3.3V? Also do R2R voltage-mode or single-resistance current-mode for your ladders.
>>2881549 >drill accurate holes for a pi pico in my self etched pcbusing this >>2881584 secured in place as a pilot-hole template?Actually, not a bad idea, quite logical; does it mean he'll run into problems if the pin distancing is different? will he have to move it slightly in only one direction if the IC next to it isn't spaced to jump an integer number of hole spaces?>Milling Machine Working Slide Table ViseWhat about something like pic?Only has to align one hole per IC, then all the rest could be XY direction moved with precision.
>>2881903Forget whatever i wrote in the first post, it happens to be all misleading bullshit, what i want to actually do is simulate the resistor ladder with the MCU's analog output, and this raises multiple questions.As i understand different voltages on different rails (scenario when both resistor ladder from buttons and MCU output sugnals) will not cause issues or damage the CPU (if i am right) as long as they are not above the maximum rated voltage, however this may damage the MCU's analog output if it's not buffered or protected.Placing a diode however gives an undesirable voltage drop, so i wonder if there's a better way of doing that other than a buffer.
>>2881874I tested the inductance of my toroids at multiple frequencies, and the powdered iron was worse even down in the 1kHz range.>>2881922Use an RRIO op-amp as a buffer. Consider a resistor between the output and inverting input to limit current if the op-amp is not capable of limiting its own short-circuit current.
>>2881894Why is this such complex. All you need is a bunch of resistors as voltage divider
>>2881894Interesting the way you stylized that schematic.Anyway, what we usually do is run it through an optoisolator to protect the inputs.It’s basically a led that shines on a transistor die, and you can pick up the level of the signal through the transistor-side.You can make your own with an IR receiver, a LED and some blackheat shink tubing if need be,It will be very fiddley to get the voltages right though.
>>2881828> mouse wheelSome small motors can be used as encoders.When there is a high impedance on the windings, there is practically no physical resistance.When there is a low impedance (nearly shorted) it well feel like it has detents.In a very large scale this is used for electrical regenerative breaking.So, to switch, you just change the load on the windings.In theory, you can use the motor for the wheel position encoding too, as when turn the shaft, the windings produce pulses.You’ll have to adapt the pulse sensors to the different loads though.
>>2881922A couple of 3.3 V zener diodes across the the analog input instead of in series won’t cause a drop, but it will protect from over voltage.
>>2881549You forgot to etch the little holes in your pcb pad masks. Those are for drilling!I use a dremel and never had this problem.The PCB is rather impressive for a diy… how did you tin the traces?
>>2882074Magnetic braking will feel pretty different to a mechanical detent. A mechanical detent stores potential energy and releases it again, while the braking just dissipates it. For scrolling quickly, you’ll be putting in a lot more effort.Instead you could push current through one of the windings of the motor, allowing for storage and release of energy as you scroll. You’d want to find a motor with the right step-angle, steppers might be too small, while BLDCs might be too large. Well you can always change the size of the wheel.It would be tough to use any motor as an encoder, since low speeds will mean low emf, at the least you’d want an AGC circuit.>>28820753.3V zeners will work, but I’d only use them if you’re not trying to send an analog signal above 2.5V or so. Low voltage zeners’ I/V curves are far from a step function.>>2882077I think that’s his etch resist, not tin plating. Plating with tin is pretty doable at home with tin, muriatic acid, and silver polish. NurdRage has an old video in the topic.
