How's the PLA Meta from Sunlu?
Better or worse than their PLA+?

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here's an idea for speed benchy domination
>take idex gantry
>double it up so you get quad independent extruders
>set them to mirror on both axis so they cancel each other's vibrations in both x and y
>don't bother going warp speed fast, just regular stupid fast
>print four benchies in four minutes
>divide to get a one minute benchy
>laugh at 2-minute benchy bros who have to employ leaf blowers, skeletonized gantries, kilowatt-strong hotends and esoteric filaments just to shit out a vaguely boat-shaped result
>have an actually usable reasonably-sized multi-material capable printer the rest of the time instead of a tiny build plate racer that can't print anything bigger than a benchy
would do it myself if i had disposable income but printer parts ain't cheap and that's four printers in one

Easythreed

180mm3 or 256mm3?
Thinking of getting a Bambu A1, but prices here in Norway are usually not that good, nor do I have the patience to even attempt to pick up a used Ender or other high-maintenance printer and fiddle that into working for my rare, occasional usage.
Does anyone else have experience with smaller print sizes? I'm thinking I can cheat a little and for larger models simply split them up and make my own joiners.
Stuff's on sale now, so the A1 Mini if I grab it quickly enough now costs roughly 235$ (2621 NOK, 226€, 185£), no filament, shipping excluded.

>>2879049
* The A1 Mini by itself. Not the multi-material system, which I don't really believe I need for my usecases, which range from just being a part to me wanting to paint it myself.

>>2879049
Gave it thought, I'm grabbing the A1 mini. I don't intend to make any parts larger than that, and for those that I do, they wouldn't be likely to fit on the A1 either.

Is there a decent open design for a large scale (30-40cm x/y) printer?

Nothing fancy. Something I can mostly build from parts of an old printer I already have.
Preferably something using v-slot rollers and belts since I already have those from the old one.

Is there some software that's easy to use, not convoluted as fuck, but also not so simple that it's limited to basic shapes (like the 3D Builder that's included with Windows seems to be)?

I've tried Fusion, just been trying On Shape because I thought it would be easier, but it's all the same shit. I'm fine with having to make sketches and then extruding from that but none of it is intuitive and even when I figure out what I need to do it's so bloody tedious. I can draw a square but I can't just click on a side and type in what dimension I want it to be, I have to click on the dimension tool, click on the side, then type it in and do the same again for the other side. Same goes for circles. And for when I want to position things a certain distance from each other sometimes it'll say no for no obvious reason. And then when it comes to extruding I can't just click on the enclosed sections of the sketch I want to extrude because that would just be too simple. And after every damn operation whatever tool I was using gets deselected.

>>2879070
Plasticity is good.

>>2878783
>i was just doing some research cause my friend asked for a recommendation and they seem solid
>the sv07 plus is on sale right now for 189$
>i came here just to mention the sale
Thanks for this, anon. I was about to go for it but checked the thread one last time and saw your reply. Getting a brand new one that's one version later for the same price is way better than gambling on the used one.

>extruder clogged
>can't push through with higher heat
>tried to pull filament out, but it broke off
>nozzle is hell to remove, but has no clog in it
>disassembly hot end
>no clog in the heating element, heat break, or heat sink
>remove bowden tube
>no clog in there, either
>it's like the filament just stopped halfway down the bowden tube and snapped off, then the part that snapped off continued out of the hot end but the rest refused to move forward
I don't even know what the fuck.

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>>2879076

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Anybody have any thoughts on this new printer?

Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo
Regular price
$549.00
Sale price
$379.00


Product Features
● Smart Multi-Color Printing, Print in 4 to 8 Colors
● Print Fast,Seamlessly, Max 600mm/s
● ACE Pro: Dries while it Prints in Multi-Color
● Expansive Printing, 250x250x260mm
● Co-Created with Pantone Color Institute

https://store.anycubic.com/collections/fdm-printer/products/kobra-3-combo

>>2879098
I've never actually heard a single positive thing about Anycubic, but I have no firsthand experience with them, so take it with a grain of salt.

>>2879088
Think I figured it out. It seems like it may have been the filament. I measured it all over with calipers and its diameter varied between 1.8mm and 1.9mm. It's so fat that the thickest parts get stuck in the bowden tube. As a thin segment works it way through the tube it gets compressed and stretched repeatedly by the extrude-retract motion of the filament, eventually breaking, which makes it worse at pushing the filament ahead of it down the tube?

>>2879107
whats the brand of filament?

>>2879117
Elegoo. Plain grey. Got it with a filament dyer that I haven't bothered to set up yet. I've done some test prints since reassembling the hot end and putting in a new tube and it seems to be doing ok now, but I did notice a LOT of friction in the tube. It's making me think I used to know a trick for dealing with that, like putting something at the intake of the runout sensor to subtly lubricate the filament without it gunking up the tube or burning in the hot end.

>>2879121
>It's making me think I used to know a trick for dealing with that, like putting something at the intake of the runout sensor to subtly lubricate the filament without it gunking up the tube or burning in the hot end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY7ZrVE8eks

Yep, you put a little bit of oil on a little sponge and enclose it with the filament running through it to apply slight lubrication as it gets pulled through. Originally intended for 3mm filaments that didn't have good bowden tube options. As bowden tubes have evolved (and fallen out of style with direct drive extruders) and filaments have narrowed to 1.75mm, lubrication hasn't been a big topic. Some evidence suggests it weakens prints, and if you use too much it does gunk up your tube and hotend.

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I need to generate a spiral and OpenSCAD sucks at it. I'm using

linear_extrude(height=100,twist=3600)translate([20,0,0])square(x,y)

which you would think would sweep the flat plane of the square and generate something with a thickness of Y and a width of X, but OH FUCK NO it generates a shitloaded series of flat planes stacked on top of each other, leaving a see-through mess that has no actual structure to it.

If I try to rotate the square() in any direction then generation simply fails. If I try to substitute a cube() then generation fails (of course).

With rotate_extrude, you rotate the flat thing 90 degrees and then you get a toroid or whatever. It works just fine, exactly as you would expect. But with linear_extrude it apparently is designed for things that are close to the axis, and moving anything significantly off-axis generates a fucking mess.

Any suggestions on how to fix this or do I have to buy a copy of SolidWorks?

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BTW, I'm thinking of generating an STL programmatically -- just write some fucking C or Perl to spit out an ASCII file with appropriate triangles. I know it will be a pain in the ass but at least it will work.

But in that case, how do I add dimensions to the file? From what I'm reading, STLs are officially "dimensionless" and the coordinates are just to lay out what the object looks like without actually relating to any sort of size. But in that case, how do all the slicers know that an object is 50mm x 80mm or whatever? Do the slicers make the assumption that if a triangle is "0,0 0,50 50,0" that that means it's a right triangle with sides 50mm long (and a 50*sqrt(2) hippopotenuse)?

>>2878996
Thanks for making the thread and sorry for yesterday. I tried making a new one before sleep, but got the
>Oh you took 16minutes? Better wait another 15 to make sure
on my desktop and just went to bed.

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Look, babe! It's /g/ tourists!

>>2879070
You're looking for shortcuts, physical keys on your keyboard.
>I have to click on the dimension tool, click on the side, then type it in and do the same again for the other side
Opposed to what, the program just realising by cosmic powers what you have in mind? Enter your dimensional constraints when creating your shapes to begin with.

>>2879127
>>2879129
>Openscad
>Spirals
>What is the first answer on google
Stop wasting time and use splines like everyone else. You can find a bunch of tutorials doing so, tinfoil friendly in freecad, via *gosh* another google search.

>>2879098
It'll never be sold for $549. Anycubic has been shit since Mega.

>>2879137
>Stop wasting time and use splines like everyone else.
Oh really?
>Google it
>feature request for "can someone add splines to OpenSCAD because it doesn't have them"
Golly Mr. Wizard, so your advice is what, switch to a completely different CAD system? What the fuck do you think I said I was going to do if there was no good answer for OpenSCAD?

Cc3d have a really cheap PBT Pro filament that's glass Fibre filled. It seems really interesting. I have a P1s, and 0.6 hardened nozzle but not installed yet and not hardened gears yet, have both cryogrip plates on the way too.

>>2879074
I just gave it a quick go and it doesn't really seem like what I'm after. It doesn't look like I can create a sketch with precise dimensions and then extrude with that. And it still has the problem of being unnecessarily obtuse. I drew out a rectangle of a random side, then selected the dimension tool that for some reason was hidden away in a sub menu. That let me dimension on of the sides, fine, but then every time I click on the tool it just goes back to that side and I can't select the other.

>>2879137
>You're looking for shortcuts, physical keys on your keyboard.
That would speed up the process sure, but it's still unnecessarily convoluted.
>Opposed to what, the program just realising by cosmic powers what you have in mind?
No, I just expect the process to be logical. Why can't I just click/double click on a side to bring up the dimension ready to edit it?
>Enter your dimensional constraints when creating your shapes to begin with.
I don't remember how Fusion does it but at least with On Shape it doesn't work like that. It shows me the dimensions as I'm drawing it but of course I can't position shit with sub millimetre accuracy, and I can't click on the number to just type in what I want it to be exactly because that just starts creating another rectangle.

>>2879146
For Plasticity, you can hit Tab while doing operations to cycle through the different dimensions and input values. After checking myself, using Dimension on a primitive like a square just puts you back in the same state as when it's placed, so you have to hit tab to cycle between the two sides, type in your dimension, and hit enter. It's a shame that this isn't indicated anywhere in the UI, but as a piece of early development software, I guess it's low priority compared to other features.
It's more of direct editing tool, so while there are some dimensioning things, it's not a priority, and it's certainly not constraint based.

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I've been looking into combining organic shapes with mechanical ones, e.g.: a predator mask that opens all of its mandibles when the person wearing the mask opens their mouth. Blender is supposedly better for organics but shit for 3D printing. Is Blender the problem or are organic shapes the actual problem? If I create the same organic shape in Blender and in Solidworks, will they both be more difficult to 3D print than a more geometric object?

I'm mostly wondering if it's worth learning to use the Surfaces tool in Solidworks to sculpt things for 3D printing or if I should just try something else, like hand-modeling the mask with clay and/or making a plastic cast of it, or even 3D printing an angular version of the mask and then sanding and filling it until it's smoothed out into the desired organic shape.

>>2879135
I got hit by the same thing the first time I tried to make the thread.

>>2879127
Keep the /pol/ shit on /pol/, vermin. Your "private sector" example was paid for with taxpayer money and built by engineers poached directly from NASA.

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>filters you

>>2879213
I use blender exclusively. It isn't that bad.
You'll run into issues with non-manifold edges but
1. it's easy enough to fix
2. often the model will slice and print just fine despite the slicer software giving you guff

>>2879232
>You'll run into issues with non-manifold edges
My autism makes me hate non-manifold edges at least as much as any slicer hates them, desu. Thanks for clarifying. I should probably stop procrastinating and just grind out 40 hours of tutorials already.

anyone with a sovol SVO8 or who can comment on it to recommend it?

>>2879220
Do 3d printing bros struggle with roller bearings? They arent complex parts

>>2879059
voron 2.4
or a ratrig
the voron 2.4 can come in kits for up to 350mm, but if you self source then you can kinda get whatever size you want, pretty sure i saw someone make a 1mx1mx1m voron recently, but it never printed well due to a lack of rigidity at that size.

>>2879255
That's exactly the kind of fancy design I don't want.

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i dont want to come across as an attention whore but getting near the finish line in regards to the electromagnetic eyes. Im ngl ive taken offense at all the doubting. Anyways this is going to have to be reprinted i just wanted to get the point across and finish this before christmas. took it from that angle so the ball and socket joint can be seen. the electromagnets will pull the screws which will move/tilt the eye/s.

>supports use more filament than the print itself
I'm doing something wrong

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>>2879059
>>2879255

I'd go for a Voron Trident instead. From what I've read the frame is much better than the Voron 2.4 and you won't have to deal with any of the flying gantry bullshit. I recently got 3x 500mm lead screws and 3x 500mm linear rails off ali for under $100.. There is no fucking reason at all to use v-slot rollers in 2024. V-rollers should not be used where <0.01mm tolerances matter.

>Feel like I should share this tidbit

I just went to my saturn 4 ultra after my 9 hour print finished, and realized that after replacing the resin before the print that I forgot to put the two screws back in that hold the vat down. The vat was not attached in any way but I see zero fuck ups in this print.

Feels good man

>>2879033
>don't bother with doubling up idex, just regular one extruder
>install more cooling, gantry rigidity, hotend and buy quality, non-blended datasheet-falsified filaments
>get defeated in speed benchy by some 16 year old nerd with an 8-stepper-motor 64 volt ender 3
>have an actually reasonable printer the rest of the time instead of some anon's artsy fartsy unicorn
>>2879213
Blender is for movies and game assets. You are looking for surfacing tools they would use in design, like car hoods and injection-molded Buzz Lightyear figures and shit. Boundary Surface in SolidWorks is the closest pro option, but surfacing in SolidWorks is not very stable, and the surfacing tools tend to crap out when you get to parametric things.
Autodesk alias has a student version, it is very stable and good performance, and good video tutorials can be found online. Hotkeys and UI are esoteric like Blender 2.49. The skills should carry over to anything else.
Catia is supposedly the best, but I've never used it. In any software, you have to find time to practice. You end up doing the same things with splines and defining surfaces.
Stuff like Zbrush, and that Nurbs shit where you drag boxes around and inevitably create phallus looking objects -- just gimmicks. There are people who can create good-topology quickly, but those people are equally capable of using any other method.Ultimately you have to understand the topology in your head, first, which takes time and practice. There is no magic button in any software. (But some buttons will cause you to create subdivided phalluses instead of rectangles which might impress idiots.)

>>2879262
oh thank god you're back, i was worried you'd been murdered by your own creation like dr franken-miku

>>2879273
i mostly suggest the 2.4 to people because the trident mixes belts and leadscrews, which can be fine, but if you're self sourcing, and a cheapskate like me, you end up with dogshit leadscrews that dont match, or bent weirdly, meanwhile the just belt design on the 2.4 means even if the belts are shit and stretch, as long as you just grab one long spool of belt, it should all stretch at the same rate.
plus, i've found the gantry levelling of the 2.4 to be WAY nicer than on the franken ratrig 3 i made for a mate using the leftovers of my MPSM and his 2 dead out of box enders.
i 100% agree fuck v-slot rollers though, leaner rails or even just linear rods are far superior in not shitting themselves with flatspots and even just wobbling themselves out of alignment and jumping off the rail.

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https://www.tomshardware.com/news/3d-printer-speed-hierarchy

Is this one of those stealth ads or are these legit rankings?
I'm looking for fast and dirty because I'm printing parts that need a lot of finishing work anyhow, so a little bit of webbing or ringing doesn't bother me, but having to spend 20 hours printing something vs 12 hours does matter.

>>2879246
Printing a 608 bearing in place that actually works while also having enough strength requires finetuning of a dozen parameters that change depending on each other. It's hard as balls.

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>>2879351
Now do an angular contact ball bearing in one print.

>>2879273
Nah, I like CoreXY but I can't stand Vorons and all the stupid crap they heap on it, like the self-leveling bed.

Give me a simple no-nonsense design instead of the 3d printer version of modded Skyrim.

>>2879400
so fun fact, like modded skyrim, a voron is only as degenerate as you make it.
half of the changes are great and only for stability, like the bugfix mods, or the lightweight stealthburner/afterburner models.
The other half are just tinkering for the sake of tinkering, like the big titty catgirl mods, or the knomi screen with cat ears.
you literally build the firmware yourself, if you dont want auto leveling you just need to swap the bed mounts out for springs you can manually level, easily done.

>>2879349
that list makes no sense. their x1c is running klipper? not unheard of, but fucking weird to not do it with a p1s. no qidi. no built printer. they consider the quality of the creality printers to be on par with the bambus when they aren't. I have doubts about that list, mainly due to methodology where they just use 'the same temperature' for each printer as if every thermistor reads a temperature perfectly accurately, and that a printer used to running at one hotend temp for one speed will be fine running at another. fuck tuning I guess. and the list is already outdated.

>>2879400
My bed doesn't move at all

>>2879402
Nah, even the base Voron is fucked and the complete opposite of what I'm looking for.

>>2879405
>base voron
no you retard, the point is that you build the fucking thing yourself with just the shit you want, that the whole point of open source shit, people make new versions.
just buy a bambu like the rest of the "press button get buttplug" hordes.

>>2879406
What the hell are you even on about?

I've asked for a simple design that uses v-slot rollers.
The Voron is clearly the complete opposite of what I want.
It's not even a good base for a new design compared to simpler CoreXY designs that are already closer to what I want.

>>2879410
>linear rails are too complex
nta, but wut?

>>2879319
hahaha maybe next year

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>>2879220
Ok, now what?

>>2879146
>Why can't I just click/double click on a side to bring up the dimension ready to edit it?
Why would that be the default and not adding a new point/line, transforming it to constructional, or outright removing it? Sure you could add a little selection toolbox, but that point you're already at three clicks with mouse movement in between.
As a tinfoil, i can only chill freecad. The default line tool does exactly what you're looking for, directly asking for length. So i assume fusion has something similar somewhere.

>>2879213
>I create the same organic shape in Blender and in Solidworks, will they both be more difficult to 3D print than a more geometric object?
No. Such extreme edge cases only result in "can't be sliced at all". They have nothing to do with print difficulty/quality.

>>2879273
>the frame is much better than the Voron 2.4
>V-rollers should not be used where <0.01mm tolerances matter
Are you sure you know what you're talking about, more so giving advice?

>>2879410
Take a good look at the Ender5, or derivatives of it? Maybe that British machine with the literal bamboo side panels. I doubt you'll find many alternatives.

>>2879422
>Take a good look at the Ender5, or derivatives of it?
Is there a diy derivative that uses 3d printed parts instead of Ender's custom metal parts?

The current best candidate I found is V-King:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921021
But it's been dead for years and I'm not sure if the belt-driven bed isn't going a bit too far.

>>2879403
>>2879403
>they consider the quality of the creality printers to be on par with the bambus when they aren't
They do include screenshots of the benchies lower down in the article. My reading of the rankings makes me think they rated the Bambu prints higher than the Creality ones, but the Creality printers were listed higher because it was fundamentally a speed test. Bambu printers had better marks on ringing and layer lines, but those were secondary to speed for this ranking.

More than anything, I'm curious about how far behind I am with an Ender 3 Pro. I figured newer printers would be two or three times as fast. I didn't think they would be 6 times faster.

>>2879437
Does speed matter that much?
At least if you're using PETG you want to go slower anyway for stronger layer adhesion.
And larger nozzles beat a faster carriage.

>>2879437
>Ender 3 pro
Like an original? If so, the answer is pretty much "yes".

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>>2879441
>Does speed matter that much?
picrel
How do these speeds compare to newer models?
I'm tired of every moderately sized print taking 20 hours. Especially because these old Creality printers have a million different ways they like to fail.

>>2879450
To be fair, I've replaced like 80% of it.

>>2879422
Yeah im sure, v-rollers are objectivley shit and should be avoided. Only faggots like to endlessly fiddle with concentric nuts.

>>2879422
>Why would that be the default and not adding a new point/line, transforming it to constructional, or outright removing it?
Because pretty much every single line you will want to be to a specific dimension and you're not going to be able to draw it accurately unless you have snapping on, and changing dimensions is also a common task. If I wanted to remove something then I'd click on it and then press delete, the way almost every other type of program works. Even if it was just right click and then dimension that would be fine, it just doesn't need to be a separate tool especially when it doesn't stay selected for dimensioning successive lines.

The part I'm trying to make really isn't that complicated and there's nothing involved with it that I shouldn't be able to just figure out with a little trial and error, I shouldn't have to research tutorials to find out the ass-backwards ways I have to go around doing things.

>>2879410
nigga, NO design past cheap chinese shit uses v-slot rollers, they're a bad design.
if you insist on using them, then just look at an ender and make it with longer extrusions, then be sad when its shit.

you're basically asking for a heavy duty vehicle that runs on butane, because you have some leftover from your BBQ, then being annoyed people are suggesting deasil or petrol machines.

Received an Ender 3 in "unknown condition" - previous owner believes it should still work. Any common issues with these things that I should inspect first while trying to get it started?

>>2879542
>you're basically asking for a heavy duty vehicle that runs on butane, because you have some leftover from your BBQ, then being annoyed people are suggesting deasil or petrol machines.
How is building a 3d printer from the parts of ANOTHER 3d printer anything like this?

I've mentioned that the v-rollers are part of an old printer of mine in my first post.
This clearly tells you that a) I have experienced v-rollers and b) am fine with that experience.
So I don't understand why you believe I'm interested in your hate for v-rollers. Because I'm not.

>>2879127
>I need to generate a spiral and OpenSCAD sucks at it.
That's true.

>linear_extrude(height=100,twist=3600)
That works only as long as twist«height and you compensate vertical dimension of the cross-section

>Any suggestions on how to fix this
You can't, and all working fixes/new commands for this posted so far were rejected by openscad developers, go and visit their forum to see that yourself.

For now, just read, understand and evolve the nasty snippet:
==========
h=6;
module not_a_crossection() polygon([[0,2],[2,1],[2,-1],[0,-2],]);
module slice(i)
rotate(i) translate([10, -1e-15, h*i/360])
rotate([90, 0, 0]) linear_extrude(height=2e-15) not_a_crossection();
step=10;
for(i=[0:step:3600-step])
hull(){ slice(i); slice(i+step); }
==========

Obviously, not_a_crossection is not a cross-section across the spiral, you need some basic trigonometry to either scale it vertically or rotate slices to compensate.

>>2879545
Yes. All of it.
Follow an alignment and calibration guide to make sure it's square and level and working as expected. The one I bought worked great when it was new, but in the span of 3-6 months it developed every major issue you can have. I ended up having to replace half of it, bit by bit, to fix all of the little flaws that build up over time.

>>2879549
The issue is that v rollers are fine on a 200x200 printer, but at 300x300 they introduce too much drag and warp to be used reliably.
i disagree with the angry anons anger but its frustrating seeing people new to printing asking seemingly simple questions with obvious answers repeatedly for a number of years.
i will say to his case that i've never seen a printer outside basic bedslingers using v rollers over bearing rods or linear rails, and even a lot of the newer mini designs are moving to linear rails.
even a quick google only brings up stealth burner mounts for a v roller setup on an ender and very little in the way of full scale v roller printers over 200x200

>>2879626
>i will say to his case that i've never seen a printer outside basic bedslingers using v rollers
It's common for cheap deltas, which also need longer rails compared to a Cartesian with similar build volume.

>>2879702
ill be honest, i've never seen a delta printer use anything but linear rods and bearings, but i will admit that having the rollers bear very little weight and acting more as alignment, like a linear bearing, would be far superior than trying to have an unbalanced load thrown around at speed, making flat spots on the most used section of roller.

>>2879707
>but i will admit that having the rollers bear very little weight and acting more as alignment, like a linear bearing,
You have the same thing in CoreXY kinematics.

>>2879708
the gantry is still bearing the load of a moving hotened assembly, as well as the weight of the gantry itself bearing down on one side of the wheels.
its half the load of a bedslinger style but still a hassle to replace them whne they do go flat or wear down.
something the original asker hasn't considered is that rollers are a consumable, and you WILL need to replace them eventaully, on an ender its not too bad, just pop off the hotend and let it dangle as you remove the wheels, the pop new ones on and reattach the hotend, but on a corexy you will need to basically fully disassemble the printer gantry to get to the rollers, and dont get me started on figuring out WHICH roller needs to be replaced.

>>2879890
I would assume that you'd replace all of them at once like a smart person, but as a linear rail fag, I am unconcerned by the plight of poorfags.

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Is there a slicer option or modelling trick to make the yellow overhanging face just with straight lines -- with the extruder only changing direction over the red wall? The short hole walls will start at the next layer.

>>2879920
Fill in the gap with one layer, then cut it after printing.

Or you might be able to step the bottom layer so the edges happen on different layers.

Personally i like the first one, the second is a bit tryhard.

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>>2879943
I did option two, but it looks like I still have to open the holes up a bit more.

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Ordered some of this to try out

Is there a filament that would be the best replacement for tinted transparent acrylic? I'm making something someone else designed but out of nowhere they're like, "Buy 6 feet of this stuff and use a laser cutter to shape it." There will be LEDs behind it, hence the need for something at least a little transparent.

>>2880138
A lot of PETG is relatively transparent, though even then you won’t see an image through it. Even a thin enough bit of lightly coloured PLA will let a fair bit of light through.

>>2880143
There is a way around that and depending on how clear you want it, the clearest are PMMA (acrylic), PC, then PETG.
>PMMA
Can be solvent smoothed with isopropyl so can take a lot of the work out of post processing to transparency but less common and more expensive
>PC
Clearer than PETG but harder to print
>PETG
Cheap, all rounder, easy to print

So I think the easiest would be using a larger nozzle like 0.6mm and doing 0.8mm single wall with a small layer height to get it as "flat" as possible on the surface, then spray it in clear coat.

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>upgrade from an Ender 3 Pro to a K1 Max
>print that used to take 20 hours at 0.24 layer height now takes 7.5 hours at 0.08 layer height
>quality is twice as good
I'm scared to look up if the K2 Max is a big improvement.
I'm equally scared that this thing is gonna do what the Ender 3 Pro did and print amazingly well for about a month and then suddenly need replacement parts and constant retuning

I need kuromis STLs so I can hot glue them

>>2880172
Nah it's much better than the ender 3 days, worst I run into is a blocked extruder

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>>2879527
I'm honestly not sure why inventor doesn't allow editing by selecting a constraint. Try freecad, i guess, it's even usable these days. However your post screams of unnecessary beginners struggle. Try less stubbornness and more using your left hand, just like everyone else.

>>2879626
Meh.

>>2880172
Everything from current year would've run leaps around your Ender3. That said, everything is plateauing around a Bambu like, enclosed corexy machine. You don't need to expect massive changes for the K2.

>>2880172
Update: The one issue I'm seeing from the K1 Max is that fine details are smoothed out to the point that I'm worried that they'll be lost entirely if I apply a coat of primer or sealant to a print. I suspect excessive input shaping? Not sure yet which settings to tweak.
I compared an identical print from an Ender 3 Pro and things like text and other small details are much more clear, sharp, and deep on the Ender 3 Pro print vs the K1 Max print, even though the K1 Max print was ~6 times faster and every other part of the print is superior to the Ender 3 Pro version.

>>2880208
I'll never forget waking up after letting a print run overnight to find a ball of filament the size of a golfball around the heat block of my Ender 3 Pro's hotend. The octolapse video made it seem like a partial clog of the extruder caused some filament to curl up and somehow get under the silicon bootie that covers the heat block. The filament inside proceeded to re-melt and seep up around the heat block as more and more was pushed in by the ongoing print. I had to excavate my hot end like an archeologist. And that was one of the easier problems with the Ender 3 Pro I ever had to fix.

>>2880229
>That said, everything is plateauing around a Bambu like, enclosed corexy machine. You don't need to expect massive changes for the K2.
That makes me feel better. Thank you.
It's interesting going from something so dated to something more modern. Basically everything I had to mod into my Ender 3, everything I needed octoprint for, and features I wanted but couldn't even mod into the machine are all here, just working out of the box, in one coherent package. You said things plateaued and I truly can't imagine where to go from here, other than maybe a multi-filament setup, or the ability to change nozzle sizes on the fly.

I got some Overture PETG and now I'm having the worst warping ever. I've cleaned the bed thoroughly and I don't have the same problem with other PETG filaments.

Adhesion to a satin plate is pretty poor and I'm getting curling at the corners.

I've never really had this issue before but I see a lot of conflicting advice about how to fix this. So what's the trick for dailling in PETG with regards to adhesion/warping issues?

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I made a Gondola cookie cutter, anyone wants it?

>>2878274
SV06plus>SV07plus. linear rods are superior hardware. It's really reliable but cooling is lacking etc. If you don't really need the build volume you might want to look at the SV06Ace. They basically got rid of the known flaws.
>>2879098
>379
they're shooting for the bambu mini market but with bigger buildplate and open klipper? pretty cool but I guarantee you it will be more of a hassle to work with
also buy an add
>>2880282
cute. Did you upload that anywhere?

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How much sagging is inevitable? I've been doing test prints on a new printer and the only two things that haven't been perfect have been a little bit of wispy stringing on string tests and more than a little bit of sagging on overhangs and bridges. In every test using picrel, every single bridge segment has a lot of sag.

>>2879213
I'm gay btw dunno if that matters

>>2880276
Dry the fuck out of it.

>>2880345
I’ve seen videos of printers with turbo parts cooling that can print over 70 degrees with fuck-all sagging. Depends on the filament through, no clue what they were using.

>>2880276
Dont use satin for PETG, use textured. Add brim for large prints.

>>2880364
It's had 8+ hours in a dryer, it's dry as a bone.
>>2880384
Textured plate isn't helping either.

Also, I'd like to thank today's sponsor of failed prints: Elegoo, for gluing the filament to the spool

>>2880364
>I’ve seen videos of printers with turbo parts cooling that can print over 70 degrees with fuck-all sagging.
My current settings have done well at 70-80 degrees. It's just the bridging that's ass.I'm tempted to dial down the nozzle temp in 5 degree increments but last time I tried that I ended up clogging my nozzle before getting rid the sag I was trying to figure out.

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>>2880345
There's a technique where you print some lines on the build plate and then pull them up manually. Following the same plastic living hinge idea, bridges could be made in the mostly z direction and the nozzle moves in an arc to close the drawbridge.

Stratasys' patent application will have claims: pre-warp to get it flat, nozzle piezo resonant frequency tension sensor, landing pad pocket.

i don't want to actually buy a filament dryer. did you guys legitimately spend like 45$ or whatever on some single-purpose thing that only dries a spool of filament?

>>2880439
I just used my oven when I've needed one.

>>2880391
A proper heated drier with forced air? Mess about with print temps I guess.

>>2880420
Arc overhangs look neat. They're still in beta, but you can try them with their python script if you don't mind waiting for it to process your g-code. Check it after it's done too, it kept messing up on my machine.

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>>2880439
Yes because I don't fancy my oven full of plastic fumes, nor do I want my plastic full of oven fumes. I do use it a lot as well because of how badly Amazon stores filament in the warehouses and how humid it is here, so having the oven occupied for so long is annoying.

I would suggest not getting the SUNLU dryer because it's so badly designed, I hate it.

pic related, it fell over pathetically because of its stupid tiny feet.

>>2880465
>Mess about with print temps
My questions was more of... which direction should I go?
I've tried hotter (100/250) and that is a fair bit better, so maybe that is the way to go.

>>2880472
100/250 and you still have problem with edges warping up? How big is the thing you are trying to print. At work we just do 85/260 if I remember right and it's all fine. PETG adhesion is so good that it can try to lift plate from the magnet. At this point my only other idea might be you are printing too fast and/or with too much cooling.

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Just... why? 2 days of printing just for christmas and in the last few layers at 98% completion the printer just said "fuck you and your shit retard: X layer shift"

>>2880498
if nothing else is bad, finish the print, then carefuly cut the offseted layers and glue it back where it belongs.

>>2880505
Bfff.... well, less is nothing, any tips before starting?

Is there an alternative to Octoprint without all the useless crap like achievements?

>>2880512
People actually still use octoprint? I thought everyone moved to fluidd/mainsail.

>>2880509
Take the print, flip it upside down in the slicer, only print what you need. If you can find out exactly what layer it shifted at you know exactly where to end the second print. Think about what you need to hold it in place before gluing. Print some kind of clamps to hold it in place while the glue sets. Use primer & paint after if it's that important and you need to hide the seam.

Who's brilliant idea was it to add a homing command after a print to OrcaSlicer?
The home position of my printer is the nozzle at bed level, so it rammed into the print after it was finished.

>>2880541
Automatic print ejection, awesome

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is any one of you able to edit stls in freecad without much hassle? I just want to know if it's possible.
Most of the time I decide to remodel the whole thing in Onshape after 10 minutes of fiddling with FreeCad because every single step seems to be designed to be as laborious as possible (I have to google every time what series of buttons I need to press so it lets me work on the stl at all)

>>2880586
meshmixer is the only one that doesn't make me want to kill myself
...as much

>>2880472
How many watts is that drier? If it has a dinky little DC power cable like that it can't be that good. The Creality "Space Pi" ones look pretty decent, though I'm disappointed they didn't call the two-spool unit the "Space Tau". I made my own >100W unit using an old laptop power brick.

>>2880498
Do a test print of something just as tall, and place it opposite the power supply. Your hot end might have run into something that got in its way, causing the stepper to skip.

>>2880434
>nozzle piezo resonant frequency tension sensor
Sounds like they just threw buzzwords onto the drawing board.

>>2880586
>It depends
Mostly.

>>2880599
mesh mixer is heavily under rated

Not sure if I should find a different thread for this, but if I've 3D printed something that suggests X sized diameter magnets, but end up using a smaller diameter cause that's all I have to hold it together, would it work the same or will it be a lot weaker? Thicknesses of the magnets are the same, just struggling on diameter.

>>2880711
There's more to magnets than just size, even if you used the suggested size they could be stronger or weaker than what the designer of the part originally intended. Just try it out, only you can judge whether they're strong enough.

>>2880517
I still used it up until a few days ago.
Because I took a lot of time off of 3D printing and have never heard of fluidd/mainsail and octoprint was still setup to run with my old printer. It'd be nice if there were a better list of conventions everyone in the hobby/industry knows, because the new/casual user experience in 3D printing is basically:
>do things the hard way
>search endlessly for solutions
>eventually stumble across mention of something you've never heard of
>discover a whole community of people have had a working solution that you just never heard about
>half of the community seems to have known about it but nobody talked about it so the other half of the community was in the dark
It's like the inverse of AI art, where every time something new drops everyone hears about it ASAP because everyone shares their newest generations with the new tech.

>>2880663
NTA but my shot in the dark at interpreting it:
>nozzle piezo resonant frequency tension sensor
>nozzle [...] sensor = senses the nozzle
>piezo = uses the deformation of a material to generate electrical charge to measure pressure, acceleration, vibration, etc
>resonant frequency = harmonic frequencies that maximize the amplitude of vibrations
>tension = tensile force on an object
So I would guess that a nozzle piezo resonant frequency tension sensor would measure the vibrations in a nozzle caused by tension on the filament.
In this context, I suspect the sensor would be used to tell the printer when the vertically extruded filament for the bridge was stiff enough to lean over without it sagging down into the gap it's spanning.

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>>2878996
>RIP Previous OP
Tore my left serratus posterior inferior from my L1 and L2 vertebrae, again. I'll miss you all while I lose another year or two to the doctors and lawyers, good luck and have fun.

>>2880779
>Tore my left serratus posterior inferior from my L1 and L2 vertebrae
Holy shit, that sucks. I get spasms in my serratus posterior inferior and it's so bad I can't walk or sit up for a few days. I can't imagine tearing it.

On the bright side, now your body gets to 3D print some replacement tissue, hopefully? 1-2 year print time is rough, though. I hope things go smoothly for you.

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>>2880533
Thanks man, as we said in my lands, "may God reward you with few children and many tries"

>>2880779
how tf

Why is my dirty IPA that i've left in the sun for 2 months not settling to the bottom and the whole thing is still milky

>>2880779
Hope you're doing better soon. I liked the collages.

>tried to paint 3D printed thing outside
>it's so hot it's deformed
Fuck me. I don't mind printing parts again but I didn't realise PLA would deform that quickly.

>>2880743
I was thinking that it was using an oscillating piezo transducer to measure the resonant frequency of the nozzle. As pressure within the nozzle increases, it strains the metal, changing the speed of sound within it, and so changing the resonant frequency. It might instead be sending ultrasound through the molten filament and measuring its resonant frequency instead.

>>2880779
RIP anon’s tootus. The collage script is somewhere, right?

>>2879104
They are very good. I have 2

>need to replace a broken part on my headphones
>found two potential replacements, with slightly different designs
Which seems like the better option to (You)? I'm a retard with no prior experience in this field.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4145017
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1390634

>>2880961
I'd go with the first, but add some chamfers.

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My chicken army rises
My first 4 color print. Flushed more filament on the changes than the model. But used about 50g total

>>2881042
>Flushed more filament on the changes than the model.
I keep seeing this and it keeps making me wonder why anyone bothers. I'm biased as hell because I sand, prime, paint, etc, my prints but I can't imagine blowing 50+% of the filament for a print on "poops" (a euphemism I despise).
Maybe if I had a decent filament recycler, but to my knowledge those don't really exist at an affordable scale for hobbyists.

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>>2881054
I agree and i wince at that fact.
But it is so much easier to clone the chicken 10 time and hit print.
Post processing is my least favorite part and also paint doesnt look the same / as good as a colored print. imo atleast for these flat color prints, anything woth texture or gradients paint is obviously better.

In the end its easier to just load 4 spools in my ams and hit print. It only cost me like 10 cents in "poop"

>>2881054
Waste is the same whether you have one model on the plate or twenty, so it does make a great deal of sense in some cases.
I also like to use multi-color for printing labels or housings/cases that I want integrated labeling on. Waste in instances like that can be entirely negligible.

Anyone have suggestions for a cabinet to hold a P1S?

Is eSun just not good with coloured filament? Bought some red and it ended up being more orange. Thought I could avoid painting things.

>>2881042
>>2881054
Is it an option to print the different coloured parts separately, and slot them together with a bit of CA glue?

>>2881152
Some colours have less dye than others. eSun's firetruck red has a much stronger pigment, but as a result you need to purge your hot end much more to get rid of it all before printing white.

Looking for a filament that's not gonna warp post printing due to hot day in car or garage etc. I don't wanna install hardened gears and nozzle yet and stick with 0.4 for the time being.

Is petg+hs enough? How is eSun ABS Pro? Or should I go straight to ASA? How is elegoo black ASA? Might order 3 rolls of it to get free shipping so price is low.

Ordering in Aussieland, typically making large multi-piece prints. Which are usually warp resistant, though some props that are thinner more prone to warping in heat.

>want to start my own farm
> im already too late to the game

welp

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>need to print PLA at 230C and 30mm/s in order to not get wall gaps at 0.16 line height and 0.56 line width with a 0.4mm nozzle
Could just crank up flow rate but that makes for such imprecision.

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>>2878996
At least it had the decency to fail at 9 hours as opposed to somewhere near the end (~30 hours).
I've calibrated my printer (Sovol SV06+) per the Ellis guide but my supports are frequently failing. Their adhesion is shit but I don't know why.
>inb4 use gluestick
I've never had to use adhesion assistants like gluesticks on this PEI sheet, shouldn't need to.
I bought a pair of 5015 blower fans to upgrade the factory ones that came with the printer. Just waiting on a roll of PETG to print the mounts for them. Would these fans help with this issue?
Anyone have suggestions on good support settings in Cura? Thanks.
Info:
210C hotend, 60C bed, Polymaker PLA Pro, printing within enclosure, fan speeds 80%

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>Ender 3
>want to print something
>previous print finished without issue, completely normal print
>when I start the printer up today, it refuses to extrude
>suspect blockage
>set nozzle to 200 and poke needle up inside it, no change
>set nozzle to 250, still can't get the needle to go any farther
>use pliers to jam the needle in, finally get the blockage cleared and it starts extruding
>do leveling test, same one I've used a million times before
>every single square's infill starts off fine and then gradually fades into nothing, as though the nozzle is going from a regular distance to too close to the bed over the span of an inch, in multiple places on the glass bed, in different directions depending on which corner the infill starts in
>always happens on every corner square, never happens (or at least not nearly to the same extent) to the center square, despite the center square being identical data-wise
Pic related. What the hell is going on? The first place my mind jumped is that the blockage I cleared is not in fact cleared and is still messing things up, but how would a partial clog make it so that each individual extrusion starts fine and then gets worse the longer that particular extrusion goes on? Then it can do a retraction, travel 8 inches, and do another extrusion that once again starts off looking completely fine.

Am I going to have to disassemble my hotend? I've never done that before.

>>2881434
>Am I going to have to disassemble my hotend? I've never done that before.
I'd do that just because you never have before. Its not difficult, just watch one of the many videos how its done.

Anyone made the leap from tinkercad to fusion360? I have got pretty far with tinkercad, but now I think im starting to bottleneck. If you made the switch how difficult was it to switch, and has it been worth it?

>>2881429
have you cleaned your bed in the last week?

>>2881434
check your extruder motor, the pattern of good and bad makes me think your extruder arm is cracked, and possibly only getting proper pressure sometimes, maybe a poorly aligned extruder gear.

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>>2881429
Home now so I can look at it more closely. I took some pics after getting most of the support spaghetti off.
Pics here - https://imgur.com/a/yeza0Np

I think my 1st layer squish could be better and my adhesion isn't great either.
>1st layer squish
Z offset likely isn't the problem but I'll check anyway
I'll check with the Ellis guide about advanced flow options because I tuned the flow down to 97.4 per the guide.
Bigger/wider first layer maybe?
>adhesion
I'm printing at 210 which is already higher than I usually print this filament but this one has a max temp of 220 so I'll give that a whirl.
I'm setting my fan to 80%, again per Ellis. Should I lower that and if so to what?

>>2881445
Yes actually, Dawn dish soap and warm water. I've been reading isopropyl alcohol is less effective so I've stopped using that.
>>2881443
Not a CAD expert by any means - how did you know you were getting bottlenecked by TinkerCAD? I haven't made the jump either but I'm looking into FreeCAD instead

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>>2881451
>upped temp to 220
>lowered z-offset 0.05mm
>added 2 lines to support brim
>optimized support blockers, I noticed some really bad bridging from a support blocker "friendly fire".
I think that's it for the changes. I know it's bad practice but fuck it.
Picrel

I'm somewhat new to 3D printing and wanted some advice. I'm wanting to design and print new thumbcaps for a controller, and I'd rather those thumbcaps be properly rubberized instead just raw filament, gonna be using spray-on rubber for the job but wanting to know what a good method would be to ensure the rubber clings to the plastic?

>>2881464
sand it with a course sandpaper, then spray, same as any other plastic.

>>2881464
Use the Fuzzy Skin option in your slicer.

>>2881458
Failed again, similar reason. I took a timelapse but I'm retarded and the video is essentially useless because its a bedslinger so the images are all over the place.
I don't get it bros I can print the nicest mf benchy you've ever seen but the moment I try to print anything else it turns into a fight with the printer just to get it to do what I bought and tuned it to do. I hate fighting with my printer, I do that more than actually printing. I don't have to do this with any of my other tools. I'd rather spend my time getting better at CAD or God forbid, actually USE the things I printed in the first place.

>>2881521
Looking closely it had a layer shift on the x axis of almost a full inch. I'm guessing the tool head hit my webcam. Rip

Is it worth it to go straight to the Bambu X1C if I do plan to get into weird filaments down the line? Currently, I am brand new to printing - but it is the idea of using stronger filaments that require a chamber etc etc that makes me a fan.
Ive heard the Bambu QoL features are really worth it too. Not sure if I should save up or just go for the P series.

>>2881521
maybe post the model so people can actually see what you are trying to make

>>2881577
DB Alloy lower that takes Sten magazines. All instructions in the readme followed.

>>2881571
Define "worth it" and "weird filaments". What stuff do you want to print? Just get a P1S

Chances are you're falling for the engineered price-tag marketing where every upgrade is just a liiitle bit more.

>>2881458
did you wash the PEI sheet?
wipe it with a papertowel and alcohol until the napkins stop turning yellow

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Which one of you uploaded this to Thingiverse?

I've been trying to figure out why my initial layers are often dogshit and while watching a print today I noticed that the extruder pauses at random moments. I don't mean it stops during its travel, it literally stops spitting out material while it continues travelling so it's just printing air. I tried to work out whether there's a pattern to it, it initially seemed like it was happening during small rapid movements as if it was relying on some sort of momentum with the extrusion but there were other times when it would do a long smooth movement of like 1-3 seconds all while not putting out any filament.

Everything else seems fine, brims are extruded fine, all other layers are good. It's not like it's trying to go too fast and the extruder can't keep up because the other layers are printing at over double the speed and even then it's still capable of more. All the settings I could find in Cura relating to the initial layer are to do with stuff like the layer height, line width, flow rate, but none of that's going to make a difference when it's not putting out anything at all.

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I've been seeing this happen occasionally on my prints recently, it's more likely to happen at the beginning of a print and I can't see to isolate what exactly is causing this with PLA. 90% of my base layers will be fine, which is making diagnosing the problem myself kind of difficult. I thought it might be that the bed was slightly too low but any attempts to lower it even a small bit end up with the nozzle touching the build plate.

>>2881607
That looks like the nozzle is too low, or rather the bed is high at that point, and it's dragging the material. Is that other part further up also messed up? If so it could be that your Y roller is out of round or has a flat spot. Try printing a layer that covers the whole bed and see if there's a repeating pattern.

>>2881598
I'm going to again and then I'm gonna run some tests to see why its shifting layers badly at around 7-8mm off the bed. It did it again so I'm gonna find something to print that doesn't eat all my filament as I troubleshoot.

>>2881454
Mainly knew I was getting bottlenecked when it came to more organic shapes. Good luck designing a mouse on tinkercad. Finally hit my breaking point when I needed to build a clip that would go over a large spring. Should have been easy work with building a few toroids, but they would just elongate when trying to use them.

Dont get me wrong, I have got really far with tinkercad and its been extremely easy to use, and will probably continue to use it if I think I can design a part in under an hour. I think the next step is to get really good at a more advanced CAD software. One of my designs I built on tinkercad I sell, and I have to thermoform the part around a mold after the print to get it to properly fit because I havent been able to design perfect contours. If I could have designed contours from the beginning into the part over the course of 5-10 hours I would have probably saved about 50 hours of post processing work to date.

>>2881616
As you can see, the shift is around the same height but not the same layer. It also shifts a different amount but in the same direction. I'm less inclined to believe it's mechanical because I just printed something tall and narrow yesterday.
If anything it's one of the supports getting pulled off the plate and physically obstructing the tool head. I'm printing a lattice cube now to prove I'm not going insane.

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>>2881626
Pics would be helpful.

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>>2881616
i use this dice stl. i tried to find the link on thingiverse but there are about a trillion dice stls so i'm not going to hunt for it. this one is very cubic and 16mm on all sides. prints quick and is my go-to "make sure that everything is right" stl

wormhole.app/80ZLY#XYQgvKffxlCOL611NLVTDw

>>2881628
plus ur not left with a calibration cube which is totally worthless. instead you have a useless pile of dice in all sorts of different filament

>>2881629
At least it beats benches.

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>>2878996
Why Klipper or why not?
I'm currently building my own printer as christmas present and kinda went down the rabbit hole of electronics. There's Marlin and RepRapFirmware, which ought to be working very similar to a CNC motion system and then there's Klipper who ought to put an extra PC is that. Why though? Besides adding a camera, there's a lot of naysaying on duet forums, a lot of hype on Klipper forum and a lot of ignorance on marlin's lists, but very little of actual substance why an extra PC is good or bad for a 3D printer. I wouldn't claim to be in the know, but at least i found it awkward when the main reason for Klipper were once 8bit boards, that aren't used anymore anyway.

>>2881629
>>2881632
True and after this lattice cube finishes or fails that's what I'll be doing next.
>>2881637
Since you're going from scratch just spend the extra time and money for Klipper, no reason not to.

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>>2881641
>just spend the extra time and money for Klipper, no reason not to
It's not the default? I'm doing the formbot trident with a build first, mod later to the mechanical side, but am somewhat dissatisfied with the pic rel Pi clone that came with the kit. I went looking for an original Pi, saw their prices, looked into alternatives and eventually got from a few duet3d forum threads to how CNC motion systems work.

>>2881646
>am somewhat dissatisfied with the pic rel Pi clone that came with the kit
What's the problem with it?

Maybe there's a mainboard that takes a Pi Zero instead of a CM or full-size Pi. They shouldn't have discontinued the Pi 3, because most things don't need more than that.

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>>2881648
>What's the problem with it?
Coloring is off at several sections and the soldered parts are often not very square, making me think it's produced very cheaply, chinese handmade or both. Ironically the main board by the apparent same manufacturer looks much cleaner.
>Maybe there's a mainboard that takes a Pi Zero
Plenty. I just already got pic rel with the kit, which comes with a fancy slot just for cm4/clones.

>>2881607
are you leveling the bed hot or cold?
have you washed it recently?
is the hotend cables and tubes getting caught at full travel and tugging?
when hot is the entire bed hot, or just the middle?

>>2881627
check if anything is catching at those heights, it could just be at full bed travel in one direction, maybe the bed is clipping the wires as it moves.
if it is the supports delaminating and catching the hed then you need to show us the bottom of the print to see the squish, its possible the organic/tree supports are just not grabbing with such a small surface area

>>2881654
btt is pretty good stuff, but it is chinkmade, if you have a serious issue with it beyond looks, then bitch at them about it, and they usually just send out a replacement, since its cheaper for them to make the problem go away.

>>2881654
Actually that GPIO header looks like it can probably take a Zero, assuming its I/O ports would be in sensible locations.

Any reason you went for the Manta?

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>>2881663
>check if anything is catching at those heights, it could just be at full bed travel in one direction
I thought that might be the case if it wasn't impacting the camera body, no dice though.
>if it is the supports delaminating and catching the hed then you need to show us the bottom of the print to see the squish
Next time I go out to the garage where its at I will, for now enjoy the partially completed lattice. The stringing isn't entirely unexpected, I haven't dried this filament out in my dryer.

>>2881646
the cb1 is fine
>t. 2.4 enjoyer

>>2881602
It's called "thingy-verse" for a reason.

I'm about to kms
I'm trying to print a planter for christmas at work and I hadn't touched my A1 mini in a little over a month
When I feed filament in manually it seems to purge alright but when I actually want to print something it blocks up, I've tried to clean out every part like 6 times now
I'm getting a new nozzle tomorrow and hopefully that should sort it out but I'll be cutting it really close time wise

Does anyone have any jank cleaning tips for these fucking nozzles that I haven't come across or considered?

>>2881702
check the extruder, could be a cracked arm, or worn teeth, or a spun gear.
if you can manually push plastic, then its likely not the nozzle, so check higher up in the plastic feeding process.

>>2881703
Good news, I'm just retarded and forgot to put the spring back in the tangle sensor

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>>2881663
>>2881671
Not bad desu, I think I'll modify the support settings and send the db9 one more time.
3 addl pics: https://imgur.com/a/Bf00hii

What's a good glue for PLA that doesn't stink with bad fumes?

>>2881664
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!

>>2881668
Oh, yeah it actually does. Haven't even noticed it yesterday. Maybe just gonna do that, as i don't really see the points in cameras besides internet points.

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>>2878996
Probably more /g/ or /sci/ related than /diy/, but does anyone know if there is any way to extract color from printing wastes in order to obtain clear pellets and pure coloring agents?

>>2881702
Just send it in. Why else would you have bought the retard brand?

>>2881752
Pretty sure that would be a more expensive/time consuming process than using new filaments

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1wz8S9rTI8

Whoa there. He didn't have as good looking results but looks promising

>>2881777
As an epson user I couldn't understand why hp put the print nozzles on the cartridge itself, but here we are.
Its a nice little system, especially compared to multi filament roll options.

>witnessed

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49 chickens

>>2881797
Sysadmin here, its because printer companies hate you and actively do things to make your life less convenient. That's why they design printers to have a failure rate that is directly correlated with a user's need for the printer to work correctly; the more the user needs the printer, the more likely the printer will fail.

>>2881800
Microsoft Product Manager here. We schedule Windows Update to wait until you need your computer the most before starting an update. The more time critical your task, the longer we make the update take to complete.

>>2881808
I knew it.

Does the Bambu AMS help keep filaments dry or is a mere dust cover?

>>2881799
What do you do with these? Play with them like Legos?

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>>2881815
Ive given the some of the ones i already printed to friends.
Im not sure what i will do with all of these.
Was thinking about leaving them around town or my college.
Or autistically handing them to cute mcdonalds girls at the drivethru and then speeding away

>>2881819
>Paying for nuggies in chickens
Genius

I'm very worried about accidentally pirating a 3d model or 3d-printing related software. Can you guys give me some pointers towards telegram channels to avoid? Or maybe private trackers to avoid, if those exist.

>>2881819
These are incredibly cool, I'd honestly be very happy if I found one of these laying around.

>>2881637
>Why though?
It's easier to manage, configure, reconfigure, test things out, "hotchange" configs midprint, etc. Also there's that old raspberry pi joke, people often buy them and never actually use it. I guess a lot of people, me included, just happened to have a rpi laying around and said "why not?".
Oh yeah, because Klipper is so much easier to work with it's at the forefront of 3d printer (software) innovation. It did pressure advance and input shaping before it was cool and all of that. It also uses actual kinematics instead of grid-based approximation, although I'll be honest I don't really know if that matters.

>>2881648
>They shouldn't have discontinued the Pi 3
Just buy a clone, I got an AML-S905X-CC (aka "Le Potato" board) and it has never failed me.

>>2881838
>It did pressure advance and input shaping before it was cool
No, before it was cool was literally RRF. In fact they both started on reprap forum.

>>2881797
>I couldn't understand why hp put the print nozzles on the cartridge itself
Early ones were shit, they clogged all the time, they failed frequently, so they worked to make them cheap as dirt so they could build them into a frequently and easily replaced cartridge. Nothing foul about it, at the time. It ended up playing well into their long-term as they switched to the "no cable included" business model, where they sell you a cheapshit printer at cost to rope you into to purchasing their separate and highly marked-up necessities like the USB cable, ink cartridges, paper, and now graduating into software bullshit like app-enabled cloud-based subscription services and ink-cartridge lockouts.
>HP used to ask $35 for common USB A/B cables when they stopped including them with printers
>Anywhere from 300% to in excess of 10,000% markup is considered "normal" for inkjet ink cartridges
>HP is partnered with Sylvamo, parent company to Hammermill, a spin-off of International Paper - the single largest producer of paper goods in the world
I hate them so much.

>>2881843
Not just HP, all the players in the inkjet cartel deserve a long stay in IT Hell. That’s where Clippy keeps turning on sticky-keys.

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>printed several dozen of these bins with zero issues
>go to print a few more
>come back from work to this

can someone explain to me what the actual fuck happened? Started this with a brand new roll of the exact same filament I used for all the others, same exact gcode I never deleted off the flash drive even. Fairly new nozzle, recently swapped it out and printed another several hour long print with zero issue and then this immediately after

>>2881877
Sometimes prints just fail, try again

The hot end of my printer melted the magnetic sheet on the bed.

>>2881892
I feel like mine is doing that on the very far back bit. Not sure how to prevent that.

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Trying to get my old ender 3v2 running.
I had adhesion issues for many test prints, turns out my PLA filament is actually PETG and they updated their listing...
The first print was on PLA setting that managed to get some adhesion, then I cranked up the heat and lowered about 5c each print.
Haven't found the right temps or settings yet to stop the stringing, but I tried to do a larger print and it ended up warping inwards and popped off the bed mid print.

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The longer i look at the ratrig vcore4, the more meh it seems to become.
>Massive waste of space in print area
>extra z extrusions needed for "reasons"
>completely overkill linear rails on Z
>cheap lead screw instead of ball screw option.
It's just trying too hard, especially their custom EVA prinbt head.
The more compact design of trident is growing on me again. Although I would've enjoyed the 3030 extrusions.

>>2881908
ratrigs are just vorons that someone made 'legaly distinct' by adding a load of extra crap.
theres a reason most people just make vorons if they want large form factor open source machines.

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Do you help friends and family with parts?

damn just got the p1s in the mail and im unboxing it and this shit is different. the packaging is immaculate. build quality is really nice. locktite on the screws and shit. it wants me to connect it to the internet and i'm not about to connect it to the internet.
the ender 3 will rest, finally.

>>2881908
There is so much space in the back because they added the camera nozzle alignment tool there for some reason. Also one of their marketing points was that thanks to that you can store a lot of things inside the chamber kek. I like the concept of the camera alignment solution way more than the prusa xl one though.

>>2881950
only for free.
the second a friend or family member tries to involve money it becomes a problem, if they insist i usually just ask them to buy the next roll of filament, either they drop it because it doesn't matter, or they follow up with questions about what kind of plastic, or brands, in which case i know they actually mean it, so i send them a link to my usual sources, and make sure to prioritize their requests in future.

>>2881956
I find that hard to believe, when it's pretty obvious that their toolhead is just too big. We're talking almost two dragon/rapid burners here.

>>2881951
this thing is insane. out of the box, turned it on and did the initial calibration thing. then sliced with default profile and default esun filament settings.
there's not even a visible seam on it. the top surface finish is immaculate. zero fucking around with settings. i mean yeah i'm going to dial it in tomorrow but god damn dude this prints cleaner than my ender after countless hours of fine-tuning.

>>2881961
Alright I started looking into their CAD models and ye this thing is huge, I'm not sure what they were thinking when positioning the part fan like that.
Also it seems like the camera positioner is only for idex unless you can buy it as addon for single head if im getting right what they said on this video.
https://youtu.be/XYigk1lOLew
Still if somebody wants to do 500x500 I dont really see any alternatives since voron has a flying gantry.

>>2881968
Is this a bot post?

>>2881968
>Still if somebody wants to do 500x500 I dont really see any alternatives since voron has a flying gantry
I am still trying to figure out what you implied by this.

recommend me a filament dryer.
i have been using a toaster oven but i put a thermometer in it today and there's like a 50 degree F variance in temperature and i don't think that's acceptable.
i looked into building an arduino thing to control the temperature digitally but the time and cost of actually doing that is not worth it compared to buying something from amazon that does the job anyway.
i only need to dry a spool at a time, and most of my filament lives in a dry box.

>>2881972
A $5 fan. Maybe two if you wanna be fancy. You already ruined your oven, at least use it.

>>2881978
its already a no-food toaster oven. i used it for curing enamel. tbhqh it seems like going the dehydrator route is the best one.

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>>2881972
>i looked into building an arduino thing to control the temperature digitally but the time and cost of actually doing that is not worth it compared to buying something from amazon that does the job anyway.
You don't need to do that manually.
Cheap temperature controllers with relays exist, starting at like $3 delivered.

>>2881985
That somehow looks a lot more fancy than the one i replaced on my freezer.

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Good morning wankers, BAnon here again with my shitty Ender 3. Hope you didn't miss me. I finally got it running again and moved to Prusaslicer.
And of course my woes have not ended. Just when I thought I had finally found a slicer that "just worked", Prusa decided to move their deployment from AppImage to flatpak, from where OF COURSE I can't install the new version because they made the application depend on a yet-unavailable runtime.
Fuck Hiroshimoot for the 15m timer, fuck the Chineses at Creality, fuck the pothead faggots at Ultimaker for the hunk of shit that is Cura where the new versions won't slice and the old versions won't run, fuck the big fat bearded faggot of Prusa himself for this bundle of shit, and fuck the Chineses at Creality again.

>trying to replace pi zero octoprint with a proxmox lxc running octoprint
>can't get pass through to work
Reeeeeeeeeee

>>2881994
What have you tried with what degree of success? You may have to promote the container to privileged. Are you already running 8.1?

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>>2881991
By the way, take a look at an early Christmas present for a friend.

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>>2881991
Try switching to stable branch for flathub. Gnome runtime ver 47 is already stable.
Also you wouldn't have problems like that if you just read the messages you are getting.
https://release.gnome.org/calendar/

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>>2881434
>>2881446
It was, in fact, a partial clog.
>print pic related
>intermittent underextrusion regardless of bed position or time since retraction seems to corroborate extruder issue
>also when I pulled the filament out of the tube, the part that had already been through the extruder had a pattern in the intensity of the teeth marks, they weren't consistent across the entire length

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>>2882020
>decide to try poking the needle up there one more time before I mess with the extruder, just in case
>this time there's no filament in the bowden tube
>notice that I can push a chunk of filament up into the tube using the needle
>pinch the sides of the tube to hold it there while I pull the needle out of it, then remove the tube from the hotend and push it out from the other side with filament
>print pic related, nearly intact

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>>2882022
>mess with the leveling a bit more
>finally manage a fully intact print
I never ended up messing with the extruder at all.
I had no idea a clog could cause regular, intermittent issues like this. I would've thought it'd just be a constant underextrusion.

The only odd thing is that in the final print, there's a raised stripe (raised enough to cause the skin lines to not meet, in some places) running in a perfectly straight line bottom-to-top, which I expect would mean my X-axis gantry is a little fucked up and there's a high spot there. I would've expected that to show up in >>2882022 though, since that was printed just after I'd messed with the hotend. Between that and this print, all I messed with was the bed leveling screws. It's also possible that it's been there for a long time and I've just never noticed it because I've never covered the whole print bed in a layer of filament before, but that still wouldn't explain why it'd be absent in >>2882022.

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FUCK YOU IKEA

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>>2882016
>Try switching to stable branch for flathub [...] just read the messages you are getting.
You are right and I am an absolute moron. A covfefe and a wank later, I remembered that on installing flathub I enabled the beta branch. So on top of fuck all of those, fuck me. And fuck the Chineses at Creality again of course.

>>2882055
>>2882016
Would you look at that.

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>>2882016
>>2881991
It was actually as simple as reading the fucking screen. Thanks anon.

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>>2882056
Of course I HAD to forget the screenshot

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>>2881995
I was trying to get a camera working before I switched the printer over, it's one i had laying around which worked on my PC, but maybe not so easily in this situation? https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006606431421.html
>What have you tried with what degree of success?
I'm pretty noob and always struggle with passthrough. I'm using https://community-scripts.github.io/ProxmoxVE/scripts?id=octoprint
I just plugged the printer in and it is connecting+printing, i think just using the scripts entries below.
lxc.cgroup2.devices.allow: a
lxc.cgroup2.devices.allow: c 188:* rwm
lxc.cgroup2.devices.allow: c 189:* rwm
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/serial/by-id dev/serial/by-id none bind,optional,create=dir
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/ttyUSB0 dev/ttyUSB0 none bind,optional,create=file
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/ttyUSB1 dev/ttyUSB1 none bind,optional,create=file
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/ttyACM0 dev/ttyACM0 none bind,optional,create=file
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/ttyACM1 dev/ttyACM1 none bind,optional,create=file
>To the conf I added for the CAMERA
lxc.mount.auto: cgroup:rw
lxc.cgroup.devices.allow: c 189:6 rwm
lxc.cgroup.devices.allow: c 81:0 rwm
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/bus/usb/001/007 dev/bus/usb/001/007 none bind,optional,create=file
lxc.mount.entry: /dev/video0 dev/video0 none bind,optional,create=file
>stream URL
No idea how to find this or test if the camera is working outside of octoprint on the system. octoprint webui port is 5000, i tried just using /webcam/?action=stream to test.
>You may have to promote the container to privileged.
It is privileged
>Are you already running 8.1?
8.1.3
For now i'm using the pizero stream because the LXC is way faster.

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Anyone seen a build plate with a wood grain pattern? I know I could print a subtle pattern on the surface but if I can get the build plate to do it for me, that would save a bit of time and effort.

>>2882085
Just print on a wooden board.

I tried to use some HTPla that's been sitting in storage for a while and it somehow broke in three places during printing and blocked the bowden tube. I thought brittle filament might be a result of it being too dry but after sitting in storage for over a year shouldn't it have been too moist, if anything?

>>2882023
The gnomes are messing with your printer

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>>2882140

>>2882140
>last thing I printed immediately before the problems was a mold for a gnome-shaped candle
You might be onto something.

>>2881607
>>2881610
>That looks like the nozzle is too low, or rather the bed is high at that point, and it's dragging the material.
>If so it could be that [your bed] has a flat spot. Try printing a layer that covers the whole bed and see if there's a repeating pattern.

First level your bed hot, referenced to the four spots directly on the springs. Then do what that guy says. If the bed is bent and leveling it hot referenced to each spring still leaves low spots, try shimming under the bed on the low spots with a bit of aluminium foil or copper adhesive tape.

it really makes me mad that all the bambu shit is proprietary and locked down. like i get it from a business angle but it pisses me off that the fundamental design hasn't been snatched up yet.
x1 extruder isn't compatible with the P1, it's slightly different. the multimaterial thing for the A1 doesn't work with the P1, the plugs are different.
i mean it would be cheaper to manufacture if you standardized everything, but they intentionally make shit not interchangeable so as to keep the markets segmented. they're not unique in this as a company but it's really gross.

>>2882185
The a1 stuff is also cheaper, the extruder/nozzle is quick swap on the a1. The bambu replacement parts are inexpensive and there's 3rd party versions. They have some officially supported third party parts. Put it another way, if bambu disappears the printers still work. If you want to get mad look at heygears, they're paper weights if you're not able to login to their cloud - you have to login to even use the slicer, you can't even use settings for third party materials on the HeyGears, you just have to hope one of their profiles works with third party resin you want to use.

>>2882201
I've never heard of this "HeyGears" but if what you say is true then I'll never buy them for those reasons. Holy shit that is pants-on-head retarded.

For anyone that has worked with the Carbon Fiber filaments; since they are recommended to dry before use, can you dry them for x amount of hours, pausing the drying for another x amount of hours and then repeat? I really do not want to leave a dryer running for 72 hours while I'm asleep or away.

>>2882139
Found the answer, I think. Apparently it's not just the presence of moisture that ruins filament, but the chemical reactions that the moisture causes within it. So even though I stored it with desiccant and ran it through a dryer before using it, the filament had physically degraded already. Evaporating some of the moisture didn't undo the structural changes that had already accumulated.

I wish that was more common knowledge. In researching this, I found numerous sources that said you want to use filament up ASAP because it starts degrading before you even open the packaging. And after you do open it, the degradation process speeds up significantly. If I had known that my filament was going to go bad over the course of a year in a sealed storage container with desiccant packets inside I would've made sure to use it up back then.

Now I'm wondering if this filament can even be recycled by mulching, melting, and re-extruding it. For that matter, can my bin of filament scraps that's been building up since I started 3D printing still be recycled or has it all structurally changed so much by now that it's not usable for printing? Maybe casting would still work?

>>2882284
Home-made extruded filament is going to be much worse than slightly degraded normal filament.