>>2883965
What's the downside of using servo easing libraries? Do they just slow down how fast the servo gets to it's target. Can they somehow optimize the speed per servo or do they always slow down too much?

I need a new washing machine.
I have a piece of shit impossible to do maintenance on Samsung.

What’s a better brand/model that will be easier to replace the springs on and shit like that.

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I have never de-scaled my washing machine or dishwasher.

I live in a hard water area. I always keep the dishwasher topped up with salt. But particularly with this washing machine my washes don't have any softener, as I don't use powder, I use a gentle fragrance free liquid (I bought soda crystals before to add in but the pack but hardens into a rock every time so I couldn't actually use it).

My previous washing machine actually died after 5 years, I figured out it was the heating element, and it was probably covered in limescale. Unfortunately I had horribly worded (((home insurance))) at the time where they wouldn't have been liable for a fire if I conducted any unauthorized repairs (i.e. replacing the element myself), and calling someone out to do it was half the price of a new machine anyway, so I just got a new one.

Unfortunately I've been really busy and neglected to do maintenance on the new one (apart from the soda crystals attempt).
Not now I finally got around to buying proper descaling products suitable for them, along with gloves and goggles etc.

So this dishwasher is 13 years old and the washing machine is 3 years old.

Most sources say that for a hard water area, I should descale every 6 months.

Does this mean I need to 'catch up' on 26 descalings for the dishwasher and 6 descaling on the washing machine just to get back to baseline, and then do every 6 months? Or should I just do every 6 months starting from now and forget about the previous descaling 'debt'?

>>2883977
I have read that they are all like that now, even Miele. In Bongistan there might be one company (Ebac) who does it better, more repairable, but there are so many other complaints about the company (horrible aggressive gaslighting customer service, ridiculous prices in the first place) that it doesn't seem worth it.

Might be smarter to get a cheap model from a cheap brand, don't get attached to it (the low price should help), and just get a new one whenever it breaks.

How much does it actually cost to maintain a home? A lot of sources online quote 1% of the home's value per year, but running the numbers on that that would be enough to buy a brand new roof every 5 years. I think that's way too much money to set aside for repairs.

What all expenses are there for home ownership? Obviously roof is the biggest cost, and it'll need to be replaced at least once in the 30 years of the mortgage. Furnace, AC, water heater are other major costs that occasionally need replaced. What else is there?

>>2883977
If you're an American, Whirlpool/Maytag. Euro-centric, Siemens/Bosch. Avoid "luxury" bullshit brands like Miele, JennAir, Fulgor, they've got quality but there's no repairability, they're money pits. Avoid Haier brands: GE, Hotpoint, or Fisher & Paykel, they've fallen right off a cliff in quality over the last decade and are all deep on my shit-list now, fucking garbage. Whirlpool/Maytag, at least within the US, has great parts and information availability. Doesn't matter how easy it is to work on if you can't actually buy the part that needs replaced or figure out what the fuck it's called. Some of these faggots only make their parts available to certified reps, there are plenty of LG and Samsung parts you absolutely cannot find anywhere but a local pro probably has sitting on the shelf, fuck those faggot brands. Top-loaders are almost always easier to work on and harder to fuck up compared to front-loaders. Supposedly good front-loaders last longer than equivalent top-loaders, I don't know how true that is but might be worth looking into.

>>2883984
I would say 1-2% is absolutely accurate in the long term, and maybe a bit low if you don't do the work yourself.

Eventually everything will go - heater, AC, gutters, deck, wall cracks, sliding foundation, leaks, pipes, kitchen, bathrooms, etc.

That # is definitely for maintaining it in peak condition - you could just let the home lose value and lose that money on the backend when you sell.

>>2883984
Roofs wear out, shingles need replaced, leaks happen. Stucco cracks and eventually needs to be replaced if you don't want to invite wildlife into your walls. Siding needs to be kept clean, it can crack or chip away, wood siding can rot, mold can grow in or behind it. Foundations settle, foundations can crack. Exterior paint degrades and need replacement. Window glass lasts until it breaks, but the caulk/seals need replaced. So does the caulk/seals around your shower or bathtub, your sinks, the wax rings under your toilets, and the rubber o-rings in all of your faucets/showers. Gutters need regular cleaning, and eventually leaks are going to happen and sections or fittings will need replaced. You've got pipes in your walls that can crack, freeze, or clog. You've got light switches and electrical outlets, the plastic parts degrade, springs get weak, a bad outlet or switch is a fire waiting to happen. There are filters for your HVAC, possibly separate ones for heater and A/C depending on your setup. Depending on where you live you may have a tank water heater or tankless on-demand water heater, either of which needs regular maintenance to maintain performance and prevent premature death, even more so in an area with hard water. Your driveway will crack and shift over time, so will any sidewalks or other asphalt/concrete on the property. Copper plumbing last a very long time, but those easy-peasy PEX lines under the sink absolutely do not, every one of those plastic fittings and pipes has a lifespan before they start to fail. You gonna clear every deep serious clog yourself? Add clogs to the list. Septic system? That's a lot of long-term maintenance, and something you cannot afford to neglect. Residential septic? You'll literally be paying someone to pump your shit for you on a regular basis. Your appliances don't last forever, that's part of home ownership, fixing or replacing your dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, microwave, fridge, range/stove/oven.

>>2883990
Hardwood needs resurfacing, carpet has to be replaced, tiled floors have to be resealed until the grout is so bad it needs replaced, and tiles will crack/break on occasion and need replacing. Walls need painting and patching. Countertops get cut, scratched, chipped, they get shit dropped on them, they support your fat ass leaning against it every day while you microwave your tendies, and they get replaced. The cabinets holding them up are made of wood, and most these days are made very cheaply, they will eventually become loose, creaky, and need replacement before they fall apart. Most homes have doors, and doors move, they have hinges that wear, handles that wear, latches that wear, strike-plates that wear, they go out of adjustment, weather-stripping degrades. Is there an outside to your home? Landscaping is forever, you've got to deal with weeds and pests, and may have to maintain trees, plants, grass, whatever you've got going on. Do you have a fence? Because wood fences degrade, rot, and eventually need replaced. Vinyl fences degrade, crack, and fall apart. Iron fences need to be cleaned and repainted, unless you don't care about them falling apart and becoming shit. Chainlink fences have to be frequently inspected, they're easily damaged, and over time sections will stretch or otherwise go to shit, requiring replacement. Every hinge, latch, seal, coating, knob, handle, switch, it all wears out. Over the last year I've replaced a wax toilet ring, cleared a bad clog 40ft past the dishwasher drain, done dozens of hours of yard work, repainted a bathroom, replaced the furnace filter, replaced a window that a neighbor kid broke, sprayed the house inside and out for pests, trimmed several trees, pulled countless weeds, swept the chimney, soon it'll be time to re-stucco the exterior, replace the front door frame, and replace a section of gutter on the south side. This is normal, this is home ownership.

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How can I connect this ceiling light with 2 bulbs (pic shows the back side) so that the first switch turns one bulb on, and the second switch the other bulb on? Is it even possible with the 4 wires in pic? I have only ever connected single bulb lights before.

>>2884016
Where is the second bulb? You want to add another one? And the two switches, if one is for the original light, what is the second switch currently being used for?

Also what is the 4th wire you mention? I see black, white, and yellow/green.

Are you a burger btw?

You might need to run one more wire unless you want to half ass the hell out of it and turn the ground wire into a switched power wire which def won’t be code.

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How much of a fire hazard is it trying to recharge Energizer lithium AAs? It has little vents and it’s not getting hot… yet.

I need to refinish the hardwood on the first floor of my house. 90s era oak. Original finish is poly, plenty of dents and dings over the years. Also I'm going to paint the walls lighter so I want the floors darker.

Polyurethane is obviously the go to, but has anyone done a hard wax like osmo or rubio for floors? I know it's pretty popular in Europe and you can just do maintenance over time since it's not nearly as durable. Thoughts on one over the other?

>>2884022
You cannot recharge a primary battery you retarded faggot.

>>2884016
>live is white
Huh.

Assuming the brown/red shows up.in the light fixture you.could switch that with the incoming hot

>>2883965
>>2883812
4 looks like some kind of heat diffuser aka heatsink
>>2883906
Thanks for the idea, it's a last resort, it's a bit risky. As you well said, it depends on the current load of the circuit.
You won't imagine how many have this currently in use, kek.
Since I don't have the schematic of the wiring of the house I would prefer to leave with a single pole switch.
But once I roam the use and the actual wiring perhaps I'll make a test.
Thanks anon, very kind. I appreciate it.
>>2883966
>page 7
why not page 10 or page 5?

>>2884076
>why not page 10 or page 5?
Each time a thread is replied to it gets 'bumped' back to the top of the list/catalog.
A popular thread can stay on page one for quite a while.
After a thread has received a certain number of replies (312?) it no longer bumps and starts falling down toward page 10 and eventual deletion.
Once it gets this far down I start a new one to give time for unanswered old questions to be migrated to the new thread.
In a few days the old thread will be gone.

>large lump of what looks like chili in my garbage disposal
>rice on top of it
>water still drains
>disposal does not turn on
>draino, baking soda, and bleach is not clearing it
I need good ideas on how to fix this because mine are horrible.
>pour hydrochloric acid down drain to clear it
>buy a bunch of bugs that will eat it, plug the drain, then kill the bugs when they are done
>using small amounts of charcoal at a time, burn it out
>run the faucet for a few days, eroding away at it

>>2884121
is "taking the drain pipes under the sink apart, cleaning them, cleaning the garbage disposal, and reassembling them" out of the question? most plumbers would charge AT MOST $600 for such a thing, but it is absolutely DIY-able.

>>2884122
I don't really like the way the food in the sink feels so I really don't wanna be touching all of that. Will that be more difficult now that there's draino in them?

>>2884123
yeah you certainly don't want to be touching that without good gloves. or getting them on your eyes or skin anywhere.

>>2884125
Okay. It's only getting worse so I suppose thats all I can do at this point

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>>2884121
>>disposal does not turn on
With switch OFF: Locate the breaker button on the side or bottom of disposer and press in.
Turn the switch ON: The disposer will either run normally or hum for a moment and stop because the breaker tripped again.
If the breaker is on the side of the disposer, you need pic related to twist the disk back and forth to break it free.
If the breaker is on the bottom of the disposer there should be a hex wrench in a plastic sleeve on the side of the disposer.
Place the hex wrench into the socket on the bottom of the motor shaft and twist back and forth to break the disk free.
Once the disk or shaft will move, go back to step one.

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>>2884037
>You cannot recharge a primary battery you retarded faggot.

actually, you can, tho the results are not fantastic
meaning you'll only get a fraction of the original capacity, and the chances of it leaking go way way up
this guy shows one way to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qp3-G6PoHYE
you can just shove current into it with a DC supply
but best way is to use a dedicated alkaline charger, as made by companies like Eneloop, etc

>>2884020
Sorry, the lamp I'm replacing the single bulb with has 2 bulbs, I guess I thought it could be inferred if you look at the back of it in pic. My bad. There's a brown wire, a black one, a blue, and a yellow-green. Not a burger, I'm a euro. The second switch is used for nothing, the electrician wired pretty much everything except that since the lamp did not arrive on time, both switches are meant exactly for what I described - each one would turn on one bulb in a 2 bulb lamp.

>>2884039
>live is white
Yeah it's some chink lamp.

>>2884172
>each one would turn on one bulb in a 2 bulb lamp

notice that the two bulbs are wired in parallel, so you dont need two switches
it's intended for one switch to turn them both on/off at same time
if you want separate switches, you'd have to separate the black wires and wire each one to a diff incoming wire
which would be kinda silly
so, i'd just connect 3 of the incoming wires: black to the black on the lamp, grey to white, and green to green
i'd use the second switch only if i had a fan with lights

>>2884140
What this chang is saying is neither safe nor effective, either buy a rechargeable battery, or buy a new battery, batteries are cheap, stop being a cheapskate who can't afford even cheap things.

>>2883984
Contrary to popular belief, it only costs as much as you want it to cost, some people let everything rot and don't care until there's water leaking onto their face through the roof exactly in the location where they sleep, and some will simply move their bed so it leaks on the floor instead of the face and will continue not caring for several more years.

>>2884121
It's called sodium hydroxide. Commonly sold as a "drain cleaner" for a high markup.
Sodium hydroxide can destroy even hair. And hair is made up of keratine which basically never rots and can stay in your drain indefinitely.

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>>2884191
She’s taking some juice!

Third world poorfag here wanting to build a little studio/shed in my backyard for rental income. I have a question.
In order to give electricity to this little studio, can I run the wiring from my home into it or would that overcharge the electric system in my house? Will I have to connect the studio to the electric post/pole instead? I think the latter sounds more complicated, dangerous, and expensive.

>>2884213
In burgerstand, if it’s a small little studio, you would run it off the existing panel already in your home and then do a subpanel in the shed. You should have beefy enough wires coming off the utility pole. But you need to have space im the panel in your house to add another big circuit, there’s a lot of older houses with small panels that are already maxxed out from adding stuff oher the years so you would have to upgrade the panel inside before you can add another breaker to run to the sub panel in the shed.

>>2884224
Thank you.

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Hello brothers, crossboarder here:

I am trying to mount two shelves in my kitchen. I have a stud finder, brackets, and a drill; everything I thought you would need. Unfortunately the studfinder is an inaccurate piece of shit because my walls are plaster. What can I do to mount these shelves?

>>2883972
Probably better off asking in /ohm/ or /mcg/

test post

I was dismantling an old refrigerator (from the 2000s i think) and i let out the refrigerant-gas by accident. I don't know which type it is. Is there any reason to believe exposure to this would be dangerous?

It's been an hour and i've been ventilating the room i worked in to the best of my ability (means opening 2 windows). I feel fine, and i expect whatever problems that would happen would be worst in the beginning, so i guess i am in the clear


The reason i am dismantling the refrigerator is because i want to get rid of it, and it's too big to move in one piece. Since i am a massive pussy i got scared of the unknown gases and I am hesitant to continuing my dismantling-project, but isn't the harm all gone now? is there anything else i should worry about instead?

>>2884272
if you didn't need an ambulance in that hour, any perceived problem and stress caused by it will do more harm than simply not giving a fuck, should've worried before it happened

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Anyone know of another brand that makes something similar to these Klein multisided sockets? Doesn’t need to be impact rated. I know Milwaukee makes a product but they only have like 2 sockets

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I need to make a custom PCB, this is also my first board.
>needs to be ON for 10ms and OFF for 10ms
>needs to be a clean wave
>needs to be adjustable 1V-5V DC, (Amp adjustment is made analoge for more clean wave).

I just made a circuit in a simulator and it looks like this will work?
Is this this right way forward or is there a better way?
Any tips are greatly appreciated, thanks.

>>2884213
If you put a small panel in the studio and and a meter to the street you can make them pay for the electric they use.

Might be a better option than upgrading your panel, idk.

>>2884213
>>2884224
Rate the design of my rental diy studio.

>>2884303
>Uploading files in incognito mode is not allowed
What fucking retarded rule is this??

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Rate it.

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>>2884272
the refrigerant is nothing compared to the mess chopping up the foam insulation will make

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Hi /diy/. I was thinking about buying a metric tape measure, there is pic related which is mm based but it's only 5m long, I've seen some that go up to 8m but are cm based. Should I go for length or accuracy?

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>>2884346
>I was thinking about buying a metric tape measure
why?

>>2884346
The cm's on it are subdivided into mm?
I bought one of this brand in standard. I love the reversible view and the 2 locking functions. The tape has some kind of satin finish on it, so it doesn't feel like you'll slice your hand open on it.
It's my main tape measure now over a Stanley 16ft FatMax I used for years. It was a 2 set with a 25ft version.

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>>2884240
>the studfinder is an inaccurate piece of shit

there's 1 million youtube videos showing 1 million ways to do what you want

>>2884348
I've been getting into the hard sciences, so I've been trying to mold my brain into SI units. I've already switched the stuff that I own into metric (aside from the stove and likewise), and I'm looking for a tape measure (I already have a ruler)

>>2884101
Thanks for the information.
Thanks for taking care of the threads.

>>2884289
post in /ohm inside /diy

>>2884307
Shrink the bathroom inward and put a pocket door on it instead of hinged.

>>2884289
>Any tips

- you should add a small cap between pin 5 and ground, say 0.1uF, to make circuit reject noise on the power supply
- on the TTL versions of the 555, pin 3 never reaches Vcc, but about 2V less, or 3V on a 5V supply
- you wanna use a newer CMOS version, which reaches within 0.1V of Vcc
- there's a sub-forum called /ohm/ for questions about these dirty satanic chip things

Remodeling bathroom

should there be drywall behind the tiling for the shower, or was the person who installed this high as fuck?

>>2884307
>>2884361 << this and

No closet, no dresser, poor window placement, no water heater, double bed with access from one side only, not enough room between bed and bathroom.

A little bigger and it could be a decent hotel room with a kitchenette.

>>2884384
If it is rated for it, the green or purple stuff.

>>2884384
>drywall behind the tiling for the shower
>>2884398
>the green or purple stuff.
The green or purple board should be used on bath walls not in the shower area.
cement board and a membrane should be used in the shower area.

>>2884398
>>2884400
This is regular ass drywall like you would find in any random room of your house

>>2884402
I did a repair on one that had 1/2" styrofoam as the backer for the tile.
It was built in the 60s and I did the work about ten years ago so you never know what you'll find back there.

>>2884240
Stucco...OK...here's what you do:
Get a magnetic stud finder if you don't have one.
Go to an adjacent wall that isn't stucco'd or another wall in your house. Find your stud spacing starting from the corner of the room. Usually 16", some times 18" or 24".
Go to the stucco'd wall, measure in increments of 16" or whatever it is from the corner. Find the closest spot to where you want to drill on one side. Then just test-drill a 1/8th bit until you pull out sawdust on it.
It seems like a hack job, but I've mounted hundreds of TVs and stucco is the worst trying to find studs. Especially exterior stucco here in the southwest, they use a chicken wire type fencing when they smear the shit on, so a strong enough magnetic finder will stick almost anywhere on the wall.
If it's not a TV or something really heavy, I recommend zip toggles.

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>>2883965
Less than 20k, 0.3 acre lot in Virginia. Old abandoned church. Worth?

>>2884361
>>2884396
Thank you.

>>2884446
>0.3 acre plot
so just the church?

>>2884451
Church is all you need can I get an amen

>>2884451
>just the church?
14,500 sq feet is a pretty big church

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I have a piece of test equipment whose LCD dispay no longer works. Any known causes for this? It powers up but I have no display (see attached picture). I've cleaned the contacts on the ribbon that goes from the board to the display. No change. Note the small dark area of the backlight in the upper right corner.

It's a typical 16x2 LCD dot matrix alpha-numeric display. Unfortunately there are no known schematics released by the manufacturer and this unit was stored functional for about 20 years.

>>2884446
How haunted is it?

>>2884491
>Note the small dark area of the backlight

indicates the thing fell on the floor, or somehow got hammered to death
i suspect your sister is responsible

>>2884346
I have that tape as well as their yellow and green ones. Yellow has inches and metric, green is two sides inches. Aside from construction work, these are the best tape measures I've ever had, and the mm is better than cm divided into unreadable mm ones. I'd go for it. It's cheap enough to try out and then eventually own multiple. I do find it humorous that they still say 16ft long on the true 32 metric tape lol.

what is the strongest hook and loop on the market?

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I'm trying to remove the torx screws on my laptop, but I can't get this final fucke off. It seems like I'm just stripping it. All the other screws I easily got off, just this last one. They have blue Loctite on them.

Sprayed it with WD-40 and nothing changed. Any other recomendations?

>>2884540
Use the correct size torx driver

Heat normally helps with loctite, but if it’s blue loctite, you should probably just find the correct driver size.

>>2883978
>Does this mean I need to 'catch up' on 26 descalings
goddamn you are a retard. You are looking at build up and removing that. No you dont need to act likes its a magic ritual and perform it as if prescribed by a tome. Just do a cleanse and see if there is any scale left.

>>2883990
>Roofs wear out, shingles need replaced,
American problem. We have clay shingles lasting 500 years here. Dont build with paper and glue.

>>2884348
French. The French developed metric.

>>2884544
>Use the correct size torx driver
I am. T3 Torx. Worked fine on all the other ones.

>>2884547
>We have clay shingles lasting 500 years here
No, you don't, you're just an underage foreigner who's unaware of the maintenance required to keep the world intact.

>>2884546
There's no visible scaling in the dishwasher at all, even after 13 years. At least not in the part that I can see, the main open part. Maybe because I always kept it topped up with salt? But who knows what's going on underneath the surface. Like with a washing machine, the real horrors of the limescale are where you can't see (the heating element). I know that my previous washing machine crapped out probably because limescale killed the heating element.

>>2884366
Thank you allot!

>>2884240
>finding a stud for a TV
Why? I get it for one of those setups where they tuck the cable box+playstation+appletv+whatever behind it…or if someone is using a swivel arm with a very long lever like 3’… but for your standard TV mount on a French cleat style bracket… what’s the point? A few toggles will hold significantly more than 99.9% of setups

>>2884348
I can’t imagine having strong feelings about what system of measurement society uses and not even knowing metric isn’t British. It’s even called “SI” because the original name was in French

I finally beat my landlord, got my lease dissolved, and I’m relocating on their dime. Fuck these criminals. What are some ways to subtly fuck with this place that will cost them time and money to even discover let alone fix?

Not talking dumb shit like a few shrimp tossed in the ac vents, more subtle things that’ll take a while to be discovered aka wont look like I purposely fucked with anything, but rather look like their own cover ups and bullshit coming back to haunt them.

while switching my left hand open fridge to right hand open fridge, i tilted it to the rear no more than 5°. Is that enough to fuck with the system? Because now all of the shit in the fridge is frozen and theres fucking ice in my freezer at the lowest setting. Is it permanently fucked?

>>2884636
Likely the vents between the freezer and fridge are blocked, maybe even from you tipping it back. Likely a defrost will fix everything, just empty the whole unit… put all your food in a cooler… unplug the fridge… let everything melt for a few hours, can even leave the door open… then plug it back in once it’s completely defrosted.
Your freezer cools, and then blows the “extra” down in the fridge. If the vent between the freezer and fridge gets blocked by residue, bags, whatever… the freezer keeps getting colder and colder while the fridge gets nothing. This happens a lot when people overpack their freezer for example.
Could be a more serious problem but this is the first thing to try.

>>2884540
make sure there isn't pressure being exerted against the screw by whatever is on that hinge
if it's getting pulled against the threads it'll fight excessively

>>2884432
>>2884623
It's a shelf and my fiancèe is going to stack 10,000 lbs of nonsense on it. Her derpy brother tried to do it before and it was mayhem when it inevitably collapsed. The one I put in our bedroom for the tv was fine, ironically. Anyways, I'm going to try tomorrow. Thanks for the help, I figured drilling test holes was the best bet based on my research, but I didnt know if there was some kind of sorcery I could use.

>>2884749
>it’s a shelf not a TV
Oh shit maybe I misread or mixed up comments or something. But yea, I’m with other anon, you really really want to verify you’re into a stud with something like a drillbit. A heavy use shelf falling down or not being sturdy enough is a large problem… spackling over a few 1/8” holes is a very small problem. When I’m hanging something I either use toggle bolts (which can hold like 70lbs each) OR I verify I’m into a stud by driving a nail/drill bit through the wall and just fixing the small pinholes if I miss.

>>2884633
Moving on and forgetting about them.

I'm using a VFD to run a 1hp 3 phase motor, everything is fine until I hit 60hz and it makes an awful screeching like braking with busted pads but it goes away when I put it at 55-56hz or below. This happens at some other specific frequency like 40 something but it also goes away when above or below

>>2884121
>chili and rice in my garbage disposal
Why do people not just use trash cans? Garbage disposals seem like the largest waste of energy, time, and money of any appliance in the kitchen

>>2884307
>no 1mx1m bathroom
ngmi

>>2883965
i dropped the basket of my airfryer and now the plastic parts on the corner have cracked and some have popped off. what glue should i use to stick them back together that wont give me extra cancer

(please refrain from reminding me that the airfryer will probably give me cancer already, i am aware)

>>2884887
Anything plastic should probably just be cosmetic anyway? If it's important to hold the basket in I'd just buy a new basket, most manufacturers offer them for sale for 10-20 bucks or so.

>>2884888
it maintains the seal to keep the air in so its only forced through the back vent.

>>2884888
many of the older models of airfryer had the basket come out seperately, but the newer models incorporate the entire unit together because retards would over fill the basket and then have their food drop out the middle or break the latch on the handle by trying to shake it really hard when it had too much weight in it. They made it retard proof for shaking (as well as adding a window so you can see the food while it cooks) but as a consequence it now is easier to break the whole thing if your pet or children knock it off the table.

>>2883984
I've lost track, over the years, but I'll give you one real-world example. New or used, water heaters don't last, for shit, anymore. An electric water heater goes for about $600. It lasts about 7 or 8 years. It is NOT covered under homeowners insurance. Installation is another $600. DIY? You just saved $600, but the new ones may not fit in the same space, to the same lines. By making the necessary mods yourself, you just saved another $100. Furnace repairs? If you're handy, you can DIY, but in all honesty, this board saved my ass, last winter. I COULD NOT figure out where to get certain parts. Repair cost $28. Calling in a furnace repairman would have been about $300. The point is, if you can't do most basic repairs yourself, things will add up quickly. BTW - emergency toilet repair? $200 minimum.

>>2884554
The head may have had just enough dirt or paint to keep the bit from seating. Get a pick and try to scrape it out, then try reseating the bit, again. If that doesn't work, sorry but you're drilling the screw. Putting pressure behind the LCD, to hold it in place is a little risky, but I can't think of any other options.

>>2884902
this board saved my ass, last winter. I COULD NOT figure out where to get certain parts. Repair cost $28

If it was that Coleman/Intertherm thermal disk, you're welcome.

>>2884889
how about you post a picture
otherwise epoxy is probably fine

I need to cover up a nasty old adobe brick wall. What's the cheapest and easiest material I can use to slap in front of it? Doesn't have to be that pretty has most of it will be blocked out of sight by furniture

I need to replace bathtub subfloor. everything online makes it seem like they're replacing the subfloor with a piece of plywood specifically fitted to the size of bathtub. I'm not sure if that's because they're only replacing that subfloor, or if that's how it should be.

basically, do I need to cut my plywood into the dimensions of my bathtub or can I use the whole sheet?

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My amp came with a 18V psu but i want to upgrade it to get lower THD (since i assume lower = better)

This is the amp, but like when i look at psus on amazon i have absolutely no idea what im supposed to get because so many 24V options come up. whats confusing me is i cant see amperage so like what do i get? im assuming its not as simple as 50/24 = approx 2A right?

>>2885035
It theoretically shouldn't matter but from a best practices perspective having a seam in a plywood subfloor that corresponds directly with the outer edges of a tub sitting on it is best avoided for two main reasons-

1. Tubs are heavy as shit when full and as things settle and move over time a seam right there invites that movement to deform that seam and the two different floor areas involved.

2. That edge of the tub is notorious for water splashing over and wicking through where the finished floor/ tub meet...you can and should seal the crap out of that seam but stuff gets in there anyway, could even be from a sink or toilet overflow...point is that it's THE main potential leak point for water soaking down into the subfloor...and its usually almost impossible to access to dry it out. It may take 50 years to deteriorate to the point of needing repairs but a plywood seam right there can let water get further into the material and accelerate dry rot and attract wood boring pests.

Just make it a foot or so wider than the tub to avoid all of this. Same goes for sub floor patches under/ around toilets that leaked...make the patch big so all seams are well away from the potential leak source.
Also not a bad idea to seal plywood edges like those with paint before screwing them down; it may be overkill but it takes seconds and cannot hurt.

Any ideas for a way I could smoke indoors without leaving a long lasting/permanent odor? I'm beginning DIY construction on a living space so I have very open ended possibilities available

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Could anyone give me feedback on this idea of mine?
>have a smoker I made out of an aluminum tamale pot and weber grill
>want to extend the height of the grill because not enough room for charcoal and wood to do a 24 hour smoke
My plan is to buy some "thinner" aluminum sheets from home depot. Bend it so that matches the diameter of the weber and pot and use some brazing rods to "weld" the aluminum together. Get some sort of aluminum rod, bend that into a circle and weld to the top to support the tamale pot. Maybe even cut a hole and make a door. I don't think I will get temperatures up to the melting point of the brazing rods to melt them. Pic related but not mine.

>>2885063
do you have holes in the bottom of the pot and you're putting charcoal in the grill?

>>2885064
There are holes and yes the charcoal + wood goes into the grill. Here is a video showing off the smoker. My plan is to add that DIY spacer I described between the tamale pot and the grill to allow easier access to add more wood or coals if I need to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBfn3A_5rkg

>>2885063
>>2885067
ok neat idea
I think it would be MUCH easier if you just got another pot, cut off the bottom and see if you can jam it in the first pot
could cut a slice up a bit so it can overlap itself, fitting more snug (also give you an avenue for cutting in a door)
i think the overall system is probably too light to fuck around with a door though

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Here's a basic question. I want to create magnetic "fake windows" which would be passable at 20feet distance. I want to cut out PVC gloss sheet, back it with 3mm foam and use 3mm magnets around the edge to secure the panels to the rear window depression.

What's an easy way to make a template from cardboard? Then I mark out around that onto the black gloss sheet.

>>2885046
look up airport smoke booths/zones, they are essentially metal framed acrylic or glass paneled large booths similar to a phone booth with ventilation going outside, and are air-sealed otherwise. add an appropriate CFM fan for the size of your indoor smoking booth, maybe with a carbon and hepa-rated filter, and you would have no issues smoking in that room indoors. Of course, the smoke WILL linger in your hair and clothes and skin and all that, but less so if there's good ventilation. It wouldn't be too difficult to do a residential version of this for your home especially if you are in the early stages of your renovations.

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>>2885099
>>2885046

fucked up bathroom anon here

I have joists that are sagging in the middle of the room. I can sister the joists, but I can't physically get a solid piece into the room that's long enough to stretch from beam to beam.

since I ONLY need the floor to be level and the structure is fine so far, am I able to sister and block the joists only running about 60% of the old joists length?

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'Young niggas' of /diy/:
Since the old nigga at tinmantech died: is there any place to buy a Meco Midget at reasonable cost?
My sources (Black) say: Meco > Victor > ESAB... now sold through Airgas US.

My local wants $440 for one, which is a bit like the white man's legacy--robbery, that is.
Yes, I could pay that. But since my soul would remember it for the 'next four-hunnid', and I'd like to avoid that.

Also, is there any place to catch that trick green glass he was selling?
Price is no object (yes, tha record deal came thru).

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I'm replacing a wooden gate in my fence and have a bunch of dumbass first timer questions.

Gate info: The frame of the gate will be 6' by 6' (pickets will 8') made from pressure treated 2x4s.

1) I plan to have a box frame with half lap joints at the corners and a single diagonal brace going from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side. Is that the best I can DIY without spending a ton of dosh or is there a better solution?

2) Considering the size of the frame, will it need a center hinge (3 total)? If so, should a put a horizontal brace in the center also?

3) The old gate frame rotted pretty badly. I think it might have been from leaves collecting on the frame so it was constantly wet. Should I cut a 45° into the topside of the 2x4s (and coat it in wood preservative) so leaves slide off or is that overkill?

4) I'd like to attach the gate to my house on the hinge side. Is this a bad idea?

5) Why do people mount the latch at the top of the gate instead of in the middle?

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>>2883965
I want to make a cabin that looks like this on the inside. Any advice?

>>2885331
Paint, wood, plasterboard, light fittings

>>2885019
Do you not have bonding coat plaster?

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do mice eat heatshrink tube?
over the years i realized they like silicon insulation from installed lamp sockets but dont touch the nym PVC isolation also present

I just bought a 400$ tool from a homeless guy for 60$. I felt kind of scummy after doing it because everyone hates a tool thief, and despite being a former junkie I never stole tools. There’s no marking on the tool I could use to find the real owner except a mailing sticker from Amazon for a town like 4-5 hours away. I’m not driving that distance to return it, but should I try to find the dude on Facebook or something? Would he just say it was stolen even if he sold it or got his money back from Amazon so I give it to him again? (If that’s the case). If he didn’t get money back and it WAS just stolen without reimbursement from Amazon… is it fair to charge him the 60$ plus shipping? Idk, I feel kind of obligated to make an effort but I don’t want to be naive either.

>>2885542
If it was a porch theft, Amazon or the shipping company probably just gave him the money back. I don't know why you grew morals after you did the nigger shit, I'm fine with people buying stolen shit and I'm fine with people not touching it, what I don't understand is the busybodies who feel guilty. If you feel guilty, you shouldn't have done it in the first place.

>>2885567
>why you grew morals after you did the nigger shit
>im fine with it tho
Because I’m thinking about what is right or wrong in this exact circumstance, and exactly how far my responsibilities go, I don’t feel bad about buying it, because if It was easy to find the guy and he had lost out, I’d obviously have to hand it back to him and eat the 60$ loss unless he offered. But it’s more complicated than that clearly. You seem like a guy who is certain of their own opinion, regardless of how stupid of contradictory it is. Certainty isn’t a good thing when you don’t know what the fuck you’re talking about, haven’t really considered the situation, and would be “certain” of something completely different after consideration or more details.

>>2885581
>Because I’m thinking about what is right or wrong in this exact circumstance, and exactly how far my responsibilities go
This is all down to your own personal opinion, though?

Personally, if I was you, and got so bent out of shape about buying stolen goods from a hobo, I'd just post it back to the guy and eat the 60+shipping loss. I'm not you though, I'm me. If I found a 60 dollar deal on a 400 dollar tool I'd be happy about it, just like the other month when I bought a 60 dollar tool and the dummy who shipped it forgot to remove the 60 dollars worth of batteries inside it, making the tool essentially free. I could've said "hey man you sent me the batteries by mistake" and shipped them back to him, but in my opinion it was his mistake and he didn't ask for them back so I didn't care.

You're the retard who is contradicting himself by supporting thieves one day and then feeling bad about it the next. It's sounding more like you bought the tool with the fantasy of playing the good Samaritan, but now it's more hassle than you wanted so you're looking for someone to give you an out and say "no dude it's cool keep it". The only thing I'm "certain" of here is that you're a tool.

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>>2883965
Picked up a neat old beam balance. Pic related.
It came with a set of balance weights, stamped with values like 500C, 200C, etc.
500C weight weighs 100 grams (on my electronic drug dealers scale). So, 1C appears to be 0.2 grams.
Question: Why? What's the significance of this special unit, C?

I accidentally put a drill bit into my hand drill that is 1/32 larger (13/32) than the listed maximum (3/8) and now I can't get it out. The chuck is loose and it comes out almost all the way but something in the final half inch of the shaft is blocking it. I've shaken, twisted, wiggled, reoriented, etc, and I can't get this thing out. I can't figure out how it comes out normally for the first half inch and then gets stuck in the second half; the shank of a drill bit is just a straight shaft. The size lettering is already visible before it gets stuck so it's not getting hung up on that.
How do I get this slightly too large bit out of the drill?

>>2885696
Carat, anon, the standard unit of measure for gemstones and pearls in wide use for around 500 years now, currently standardized as equal to 200mg.

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>>2885708
Makes sense. Carat it is then.
Thanks.

>>2885703
Freezer.

>>2885703
grab the bit in the vise then hit the drill with your purse. if the bit slipped while you were filling it probably has a burr raised up on the shank catching inside

are all plastic scratch removers abrasive?
isn't there anything that just fills in the cracks and dries clear?

>>2885725
Yes because an abrasion is just a groove so sanding it flat is how you remove it. If you want to fill it in then you'll need to get something like a clear resin. Might be able to use one of those cheap window glass repair kits if you don't want to fork out money for a bunch of resin you otherwise won't use. Or you can do what miniature hobbyists do and apply a very thin coat of superglue thin to the crack. What are you trying to repair?

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Is there a list of standard hole sizes/spacing/patterns for sanding disks? I want to make some nice 3d printed holders with pins to help align them on the sander, and it would be cool to be able to make them for all the common patterns, not just the one I use.

>>2885727
an alarm clock, specifically the clear plastic over the face

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>>2885725
>>2885741
If it's just faint imperfections from handling, you can try something like Novus #1, I've seen debate online as to if there's actually any polishing action going on or if it's just filling in the gap. If its enough you can feel it with a fingernail, you're going to have to use some kind of abrasive. I haven't used it myself yet, but I've seen a lot of lathe people on YouTube using Novus, and it's cheap.

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What are these called? Are they something I can buy at my local Home Depot or Lowes?

>>2885746
will check it out, thank you

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>need to remove some light scratches from gelcoat
>it's such a thin layer that i'm not sure what grit sandpaper i should use so it doesn't rub the entire gelcoat layer away
>320..? n-nah, i-i'll just start with 600 to be safe
>work my way up the grades through to 2000 and all the scratches look like they're gone because the entire thing has a dull matte finish
>start polishing it
>the scratches are still slightly visible
>about to run out of polishing compound and don't have the budget to buy more
this is my 3rd time sanding this
why am i so fucking dumb, bros

>>2885754
for reference, i went
>600 wet
>1000 wet
>2000 wet
i also have no idea what grit sandpaper i should jump to after one another
are you meant to go from every single grade to the next, like 600 - 800 - 1000 - 1200 - etc? or can you just jump from 600 - 1500?
i have no fucking idea anymore

>>2885762
Ideally, you want to sand in different directions with each pass. This lets you clearly see when you've taken off all the last set of sandpaper marks.

First, you start with a low grit, and scratch until uniformity, which means you can no longer see the scratches you're trying to remove. Then, you move up to any grit, and scratch until you remove all the scratches you made with the first grit. Then you switch to another one, and repeat. The problem with jumping grades is that you have a lot more material to remove than you think, and the lower the grit the faster you remove material. So if you go from 600 to 1500 you'll use up a lot of 1500 sandpaper to get down to an even level where you've removed all the 600 grit marks.

There's nothing stopping you from starting with 2000, it'll just take you forever to remove material down to the level of the scratch.

i want to have bees but i dont have anywhere to put them, i live in the city. all i have is my flat. what can i do? is it normal to rent or even buy some piece of land somewhere in order to do this?

also, is there a beekeeping general somewhere where i can ask for advice?

>>2885805
>i live in the city
In the US?
Some snowflake will sue you when they inevitably get stung. They'll claim they're allergic and that you risked their life.

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>>2885725
It's not something you want to try with something irreplaceable and it won't make deep scratches disappear but to answer your question, no, abrasives aren't the only way to polish plastic-

>When done properly, flame plastic polishing produces the clearest finish, especially when polishing acrylic. This method is most applicable to flat external surfaces. Flame polishing is frequently used in acrylic plastic fabrication because of its high speed compared to abrasive methods. In this application, an oxyhydrogen torch is typically used, one reason being that the flame chemistry is unlikely to contaminate the plastic.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame_polishing

Is there a material I can buy in panel sizes or sheet sizes that is
>lightweight
>waterproof
>strong enough to support ~100lbs when built as a 2’ x 2’ x 4’

If I can’t find anything better I’m going to use 3/4” shop birch and seal it with an epoxy coating to provide the waterproof aspect. Hardie board or PVC wall paneling could be options but sound inconvenient in their own ways.

>>2885830
3/4" ply isn't going to be light if you are making a 5 or 6 sided box, and 100 lbs isn't that much weight...you'll need some kind of internal corner pieces to beef up the edges and/ or fasten to and you can add cross members in the middle of the load bearing faces to prevent deflection of the skin. If you do all that a quality 1/4" plywood like Baltic birch will be more than adequate to skin it.

>>2885746
The only debate is among those who can't read the ingredients clearly listed on each bottle.
#3 contains an Aluminum Oxide abrasive and a lubricious solvent that's miscible in water, so it's an actual abrasive polish.
#2 contains Propenoic acid, sometimes called Polyacrylic acid, in Aminoethoxyethanol and Polyoxyethylene Tridecyl Ether, it fills fine scratches with an acrylic polymer.
#1 is mostly water with a little isopropyl alcohol, Dimethylpolysiloxane, and Polydimethylsiloxane, it creates a silicone residue that fills in extremely fine scratches and helps protect the surface from other shit.

>>2885747
With only a single shit top down picture it's hard to tell, but I guess it sort of looks like an Eccentric Cam Lock for furniture?

>>2885826
im eu, people are more civilized. in any case, assume it works, is it normal? do urban people get into it like this, or do they dont do beekeeping at all?

>>2885900
No, urban people do not do this. It's farming. You don't keep bees for fun, that's not a thing. If you want bees around just because you want some bees around then build homes and plant flowers that attract local species. If you want to keep a hive, doing it in an urban area is extremely inappropriate and won't go well. You need the environment to support them, and an urban area isn't that. Your bees will struggle, or just up and leave to somewhere that doesn't fucking suck so much. If the area is conducive then you've got 20k+ bees in your backyard, great, your neighbors will love that. Beekeeping is a big thing, it's practiced extensively worldwide, and a huge number of people do it at a "hobby" level, and what you want to do is universally panned by all of them. If you really, really want to do this, because you're retarded, you should talk to your local beekeeping association. You're in the EU, hit up the European Beekeeping Association and ask them who your local association would be, then go talk to those folks. Chances are very high there's a 68 year old man who will happily explain to you in extensive detail that you absolutely shouldn't do this, or how it may actually be achievable in your location.

>>2885900
In the EU people can and do sue beekeepers who are irresponsible in their practice after being stung, even folks without allergies. A beekeeper, like any other profession, has a responsibility to do what they do in a manner that isn't reckless or otherwise unnecessarily endangering to the people around them. There is no responsible or reasonable way to keep bees in an urban environment, you will always be in the wrong, and actual beekeepers will shit on you for your stupidity.

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what is the industry's name of the grey metal shed type thing on the right side

>>2885805
You cannot have bees. Change your life by moving, or give up your goal of becoming another hobbyist beekeeper.
The closest thing you can do is plant flowers that will attract bees. If you care at all about the quality of honey you would produce then you can't keep bees in a fucking city. City dwellers have absolutely no concept of how chemically contaminated every aspect of their life is.
Some beekeepers rent land, and some even get paid by large landowners to keep bees on their land. Since you are not already a beekeeper and you don't know what you're doing, you almost certainly won't be able to get paid for it. Buying land would be your best bet, renting land would cost even more money in the long run.

>>2885767
thanks anon

big honey fears the hobby beekeeper

>>2885838
Yeah, I'd never actually read the bottles, after I noticed what #1 said I'm not really sure why there was any debate. From the front I can see why #2 would sound like it has abrasives though, so, good to know, thanks! I'll have to give them a try when I eventually finish off my PSI One-Step.
>>2885900
What are the bees gonna eat in an urban area? They need plants. They need ENOUGH plants.

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>>2885916
>name of the grey metal shed type thing on the right side

The industry standard name for this is Equipment Shed.
More precisely, Signaling Equipment Shed.

>>2885767
i've spent hours reading about sanding practices and this is the more useful than anything i've ever read
thank you

>>2885827
i used this stuff called PolyWatch
it's for repairing scratched watch screens
I used it on my oculus lenses which I believe are acyrilic and it worked amazing, scratches gone and no fuckery to the lens
>>2885830
corrugated roof sheeting

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>>2883965
I'm building a deck. Can I use pic-related to attach a rim joist to each joist? The deck joists run up against an existing porch, so I can't add any screws or anything from the outside. I have to attach the rim joist from the inside. Will pic-related be good enough?
The alternative is to just to blocking but that seems like more work. But also: Would pic-related work for blocking? Could I attach the blocking to the joist using pic-rel?

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>>2885962
these would be much better

>>2885895
My bad. I was drunk when taking it and thought it was good enough. However it was to a desk, and looking up cam locks brings up similar ones so it must be that. Thanks!

>>2883965
I'm building a new cart for my weldanpower engine welder. Would it be a dumb idea to mount a fire extinguisher directly to the cart? I figure I already shake my extinguishers every other week to keep them from caking, will the extra vibration damage the extinguishers or just save me some work?

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>>2883965
I saw these on mcmaster and I want to know if there's a trade name for these? I could absolutely use a set of deep socket crowsfoot, but would prefer not to spend $15+ per socket, in metrique only, if I don't have to.

>looking for a new home
>find neat looking condominium at ground floor
>go check it out
>all windows at top floor is packed full of houseplants
>moisture in the lower part of windows
>see a [black man] walking around inside
all those plants got me a bit spooked about high humidity and water damage
water that will flow down into my apartment

what do?

>>2885948
Thank you, anon. My search for "Railroad shed" just brings up train stations so I was a bit lost

What’s the most noggish way to patch a ton of 1/2” holes in dry wall? Wad of toilet paper with spackle over it?

>>2886105
put a small piece of timber inside the hole and drill it through the drywall so its held against the back of the drywall
cut out small pieces of drywall, place them in the holes and screw them against the timber so it covers the hole
apply jointing compound over the gaps and paint it

>>2886109
>>2886105
but since they're only 1/2" holes, just cut out the drywall around the hole to make a larger square hole

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>>2885767
i'm back >>2885754 >>2885762
i spent 2 hours sanding with 400 and i'm up to 600 right now
does this look right? or does it need to look more matte and hazey?
i do NOT want to go through the rest of the grades and waste polishing compound 3 times in a row

I need to drill some holes less than 1/2" deep. I have a drilling stand (well not yet because I haven't bought it), but I haven't used one since I was in school. Do they usually have some kind of depth adjustment on them or am I going to be stuck doing the ol tape around the drill bit method and semi-eyeballing it?

>>2886115
I've never seen one without a depth stop, but worst-case you could just lower the table so it doesn't start drilling into whatever you're drilling until the last 1/2" of the drills reach.

>>2886118
>I've never seen one without a depth stop
Thank fuck. It wouldn't be such a problem but I need to do about a dozen and they all need to be as accurate as possible.
>worst-case you could just lower the table so it doesn't start drilling into whatever you're drilling until the last 1/2" of the drills reach
Oh yeah I didn't think of that. I'll keep that as a potential backup option. Thanks.

>>2886113
That one little divot right near the middle looks like it's still deeper than the rest of the surface, and the sideways scratches near it also look a little deep. I'd say you probably could've gone a little longer with 400, if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail still it's probably too deep.

What you're looking for is uniformity, and most of it looks fairly uniform, but the deeper scratches need to be worn away on the first pass or increasing the grade is only going to make it harder to remove them.

>>2886121
>That one little divot right near the middle
that's just a bit of tissue paper
>the sideways scratches
they weren't there before so i have absolutely no idea how they keep popping up like that
am i pushing too hard on the sandpaper?

>>2886128
Ah, you're probably fine then. The key is really just checking to see if you can see any of your old marks after you start a new grade, with wide mostly flat surfaces like this it's fairly easy to alter sanding direction on subsequent passes until the last set fade away.

Those scratches looked a little deeper but it could just be the light catching them, you want uniform pressure, pressing too hard can cause bits to catch and gouge the work deeper.

>>2886132
i see, thank you fren
i will remember your advice

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>live in old apartment complex, built 1940 or so
>in recent years we've had 3-4 pipe leaks in different apartments
>ye olde pipes are giving out
should we plan to replace all pipes for up to 300k project
or just keep replacing them as they go?

any good shrooms channels? youtube only show soitards looking "people" and I don't trust those

>>2886223
Dunno, but you could look around the unclebens subreddit, they might have some good ones linked.

>>2886223
the shroomery forum has everything you need, they innovated everything over 10 years ago

>>2886223
majestic garden forum on tor
simple PGP verification for making a account

>>2886158
You already know the answer. Water damage from a million leaks sucks balls. 3-4 leaks over “recent years” though, do you think you can sell the building before spending at least as much in small repairs?

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I'm 32 years old and I have no idea when to use washers, what side they should go on, what they do, or what types you need to use when.

>>2886297
The side doesn't matter, but they're usually punched out, so one side will be rounded and the other kinda sharpish, so I always put the sharpish side facing to the thing and the rounded side facing up towards me so no one gets scratched if they touch it. Use a washer anytime you care about the surface finish and don't want the socket/wrench/nut to spin and scuff it, to spread the load any time the thing is wood/material that might crush, or for anything thin enough it might dent (sheet steel, etc). If it's a solid chunk of metal that you don't care about the surface finish on, you can skip the washer.

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>>2886297
always. sae washers. bonus for g8 or l9 hardened. uss are trash that fit like a hotdog down a hallway
except split lock washers. fuck them and the horse they rode in on. theyre retarded shit that spreads open and pops off causing a loose bolt situation. caterpillar purging them from all their old parts diagrams was enough to convince me they can go the way of the dodo

>>2886297
have you ever made anything with your hands that requires a screw?

>>2886048
being that those used to only be a stap on made tool, id an thats an ok price. looks like only lisle and koken are making them now that the patent expired. might be awhile until chinkshit ones come around if they even ever do since theyre a pretty low demand item.
theres very few places they actually fit too. injector lines down in the hole in the head is where they are indispensable
t. own both sae/mm snappy sets of them

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>>2886048
If you don’t need the flex part on the end, you can go on Amazon with “Sensor sockets” or “Fuel line sockets” that will be like a whole set of deep sockets with the slot cut out on the side like those oil pressure sensor or o2 sensor sockets.

Gearwrench sells flex head flare nut wrenches as well. I bought one in 8mm x 10mm and have been wanting to go for the whole set of SAE and MM since.

There’s also a few of the Taiwan brands that sell picrel and the price for the set is about the same as a single wrench from the tool truck

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The back panel of this desk broke off. I've basically just threw glue around the parts that busted out. It was held on by cam locks. It seems stable but I still want to some extra support. Should I put a couple of wooden right triangles at the bottom corners, or is just some metal braces enough?

>>2886362
>cam locks
Eww. Weak ass particle board stuff. Add whatever you want assuming it does’t look like ass. Do some pocket holes and screws instead if you want it to look real clean, but the limiting factor will be the crappy particleboard desk

Has anyone ever bought some of the cheap handheld sewing machines? I'm a little tempted by the manual ones that are essentially just staplers with thread, I don't care how ugly the fix looks, I'm only repairing holes in my PJs. I can sew them up by hand, but it's tedious and slow.

>>2886362
Little metal brackets probably have too much flex for something big like a desk, I'd add the wood. Grab a project panel/wood shelf board from your local big-box hardware store and stain it, IMO, the desk is dark enough you could hide it pretty well.

Tl;dr I spilled alcohol based dye in my tub. Working at it with more alcohol isn’t getting it off. Anything else to try?

>>2886543
probably soaked into limescale, try rubbing citric acid on a spot for some time and after that alcohol

>>2886459
>Weak ass particle board stuff.
Eh, it's a cheap ass desk that survived through the years. It just needs to survive a little longer.
>does’t look like ass
It already looks like ass so no need to worry about that thankfully.

>>2886484
All right, I'll get some extra wood.
>stain
No need for that thankfully. Just need functionality, it doesn't need it to look pretty.

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What is pink stuff? Found in used desk I bought

>>2886593
tribble

>>2886593
Insulation that a mouse ripped out of somebody’s walls to make a nest in your desk

>>2886598
Should I spray some wasp spray on it and call it a day? I don't want to bring mice into my house.

>>2886599
there might be some unhatched eggs left up there so yeah could be worthwhile

>>2886601
I didn't know mice laid eggs.

>>2886460
you'd spend more time trying to get those pos small sewing machines working and stable enough for your liking than doing the sewing by hand the slow and tedious way. either look up an old singer or anything remotely reliable for a hundred or two, or do it by hand.

>>2886593
now you know why they sold it, mouse infested house, mouse urine and droppings smell is so difficult to get out of some things and the gross factor of furniture running with mice all around is enough to get rid of things. I would disinfect the living hell out of that desk inside and out.

>>2886362
For the record I just went with the metal brackets. I'm not a big /diy/ourself-er, and so when I tried to cut the board I bought it didn't go exactly as planned. The metal brackets seem to be working fine though.
Bonus question: What lube do I use on the keyboard drawer? It's a little tight now. Not that it's a big deal. Not even sure if the lube would help.

>>2886661
The drawer is likely out of alignment slightly now you've pulled the back together more, lube isn't going to make much difference. You can put a spacer like a washer behind the rail at the front to try and make it parallel again, I guess.

>>2886664
>The drawer is likely out of alignment slightly now you've pulled the back together more
It is. I meant to mention that. I can tell it's a bit at of an angle, especially because I used brackets on it too, but I'm going to stop while I'm ahead and stop messing with it. I didn't think lube would do much so it's whatever.

>order some automatic movement from aliexpress
>scrape together all the other watch parts
>put it together yourself

how hard would this be? i don't know anything about anything

>>2886601
>>2886604
Kek

Stick a vacuum hose in there and suck it up. That mouse nest material always smells like wet dog too

>>2884446
No, look at half way down the side where the roof, walls and foundation take a dip
The building isn't salvageable and the land looks very inconvenient to build on

>>2886728
I've done it, it's not that difficult with a few tools. The key issues are in sizing, some watch hands are a little too big for some watch faces, and some watch faces won't fit well in some cases. The Chinese mark parts pretty well so you shouldn't have much trouble just buying say, an NH35 and a case that supports it, as well as a dial and some hands. I will say one place they seem a bit mediocre on is sapphire though, I got mine locally for a third of the price they were charging with AR coating on one side, which is what you really want. Fitting watch bracelets can be tough too, ideally you want something with at least proper milled end links, even if the bracelet is junk you can adapt something nice like an uncle seiko to the end links.

Chinese parts aren't going to be the highest quality, they're okay for hands and cases, the watch faces can be a bit lacking though.

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I have to mix concrete and move dirt around in my crawl space. My wheelbarrow is not ergonomic enough for the confines. I'd like something with wheels.

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>>2886809

>>2886791
good shit, thanks! Buying the NH35 movement alone seems to be only slightly less exoensive as opposed to just getting one of the cheapest NH35 watches, at least on ali. Should I rather get one of them, take it apart and start replacing stuff? Or is that dumb

>>2886105
Expanding foam, dry, cut smooth, spackle
Or just patch entirely with 5 minute mud

>>2886833
There's nothing wrong with that, but ideally you want to find a listing for the case separately so you can see what dial size it needs, or you might buy one that's too big/small.

how do i safely cut a a G10 plate? Its 1.5mm and i just have to shorten a side. Can i just cut the line with a knife a bunch of time and then snap it off? And can i smooth the side with sanding paper underwater to no need a respirator?

>>2885767
masterclass in sanding right there

>>2886966
You can buy specific acrylic sheet cutters but yes the concept is score and break

>>2884016
red is supposed to carry the hot from switch to light. so actually use the ground wire and use red for the second switch.

>>2884446
for reclaimed lumber sale maybe. .3 ac in there is not worth and you may be on the hook for historical preservation. hard pass.

>>2884540
wd-40 is designed to displace water

>>2884544
knows. I would add impact driver to the mix.

>>2885083
just use reflextix the silvery bubble wrap stuff. cut with scissors it's 100% blackout. you can spray glue one side and add foam. cut maybe 4mm bigger than the space, the edges crush a bit after repeated removal and reinstall.

>>2886966
Yes to both questions. If you score on both sides you have more control over the edge, if you score just on one side the edge may be a bit wavy or skewed depending on how you snapped it. I’ve hardly seen any dust when I sand edges with a soaked sanding sponge.

>>2884540
Drop of titebond original then put bit in and wait for it to harden. Like hot glue but it drops right out when your remove the bit and if not it’s water soluble

>>2886297
If there is a nut and a bolt, the nut is meant to be turned and the bolt remains stationary. A washer can prevent the nut from galling up the surface of whatever. Washers also distribute the load imposed on a fastener, which is a spring, really. Bolts are extension springs and nuts are compression springs. The hexagon can distort crap under pressure and a washer acts like a snowshoe, you know? You probably opened a can of worm. This could have been a thread.

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Any suggestions on how to go about unscrewing this? Too tight to do by hand and too cramped to fit a wrench in.

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>>2887161
Google “basin wrench”

It’s the thing on the left of this pic. They’re made for this situation

how to find a PH2 screwdriver with a skinny shaft so it can go deep inside a hole, it needs to be a little thinner than a standard hex bit. the screwdriver sets on aliexpress only go up to PH1 or even PH0. we don't have good stores in my country for anything remotely niche or DIY, check your privilege.

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like this

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these will be fine i guess. btw a laughable story, i bought from german amazon a screwdriver set (with handles) and the description said it had phillips head screwdrivers, but it had nothing but pozidriv. this was a UK brand. i returned it.

>Cruciform Phillips and Pozidriv/Supadriv screws and screwdrivers look similar, and are often confused with each other; a Phillips screwdriver will often work with Pozidriv/Supadriv screws, but risks damaging the head of tight screws, while a Pozidriv/Supadriv screwdriver will damage a Phillips screw.[8]
the social contract has been broken, why people cheer for luigi

greta thunberg said "how dare you" because she internalized that phrase which is a common trope in archaic children's cartoons, the world we live in now is totally different

i went out of my way to purchase a "proper" screwdriver set after growing up with damaged phillips head screws, and the screwdrivers still wouldn't fit the most common type of screw head

someone said they had a digital piano and the logo was crooked by 0.4mm and they posted about it online, the company sent a new front plate straight from japan and had a technician spend two hours installing it and they apologized profusely. this example might seem a bit extreme because it would be prohibitively expensive for everyone to receive such service for non-essential issues, but the default expectation used to be that things shouldn't be noticeably crooked, maybe you would have an emblem piece that would only fit in one way or you could take extra care at the factory to put the sticker on straight with like a jig or something.

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>>2887199
Those are kind of hard to find locally anyway because everything is always expanded to the hex stock. The best I could find at a brick & mortar store is picrel, but there’s no phillips in there. You can look for “Power Driver Bits” and some names like that on Amazon and see sets of them from a few Chinesium brands, and then there’s Wiha ones but it’s like $10 for 3 phillips sizes, $12 for 4 slotted sizes, and would add up for a whole set of hex and torx and such.

A lot of premium brands also sell them in kits but they’re more like interchangeable screwdriver blades and they come with a handle. Some Wera kits like that, plus the Jappo brands like Vessel and Anex.

>>2887203
Those look straight, and the shaft is probably thinner if you cut the plastic bullshit off.

See if you can find a brand called “Protorq”, they’re on US amazon and have some decent looking selections of those bits. Or if it’s only one size, look for “Wiha 6 inch pozidriv power bit”

>>2887212
How expensive was the piano and how many Youtube videos did the guy make complaining about it? Companies will go out of their way to maintain a good image on social media.

>>2887212
for ultra luxury boutique products, that kind of service is not only typical, it's expected and appreciated. it's why you pay so much in the first place. how expensive was the piano and how damaging was the guy's complaining?

I am inheriting an old house that has wood floors. in one of the rooms the previous occupant used it as an office and had a wheeled office chair that he used on the bare floor, resulting in the finish being worn through in some spots and some wood chipping. I would like to replace the finish for now in the spots where it has worn away. just curious if I have to worry about a new finish reacting in any way with what is already on there. I know I can probably just test in an inconspicuous spot. but just wondering if it is really something to worry about.

>>2887359
Flooring finishes are usually hard af to replicate or repair for spot damage. Just redo the wood finish for that whole room.

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>>2887199
Just search amazon for longbits. They have tons of different of these available. Here a picture I found on the german amazon store with something youre looking for.

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>Limited Edition Wiha
Should I buy 6 sets of these or go for the full dozen?

But seriously, if any of ya fags are using cheap screwdrivers and were like me saying “what’s the big deal? They’re just screwdrivers!” I recommend trying out something like this, only $29 for this set and you will see that premium screwdrivers have some voodoo that makes non-magnetic drivers hold screws like they’re magnetized because the fit is so good. USA Kleins are like this too but their handles are uncomfortable.

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>>2887425
Do I save them as a collectible set?

>>2887540
Yes, don't breaked the sealed package or they lose value.

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>>2887542
Exactly! The Wera afficionados taught me that awhile back.

Those Xmas limited edition black grip Cobras were tempting too, but not at like $50+ for a 7-1/4”. $30 on the Wihas is actually a good price on a screwdriver set like that.

I want to add a vise to a regular desk. I would like to avoid drilling on it, since I'm renting. I thought of bolting the vice to a board and then clamp the board to the desk somehow.
Which would be the best way to go about this?

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>>2887570
How big of a vise?

You can skip a step and get vises thay clamp on. Picrel is a babby one. Otherwise if I were going to do what you want, get your vise and get a 2x8-10-12 or whatever fits the base of the vise, get some beefy but short lag bolts or whatever to attach the vise to 2x10, then chop the 2x10 on either side of the vise with ~4” of board on each side, then use your favorite clamps to hold that to the desk.

>>2887572
Thank you! I will do precisely that.

>>2887398
>6.35mm
Metric works great for you guys.
In Freedom Units, we call that 1/4 inch.

After my outlet and light switches have been installed (doing a remodel), when it's time to hang drywall, do I need to measure and cutout the hole or can I just lay the drywall up against it and use a drywall rotary tool to cut out around it then fasten down my drywall?

>>2883965
I've got a lincoln weldanpower 140 with a kohler k241 engine, which has a 1-1/4 npt muffler as near as I can tell. Is there any way to retrofit an automotive or tractor muffler to this thing to quiet it down? Obviously I have a welder and some experience, but I'm sick of listening to this thing banging away and would like to bring the sound level down as much as I can so I can weld in peace I would prefer to have something I can bolt right to the welder, but am not adverse to the idea of fabricating something from off the shelf components either.

>>2884455
>>2884446
mfw parents paid >100k for 1200sq ft parcel in third world

should i go into debt for a woodworking business
trying to bootstrap this woodshop but diy machines take too hecking long to do anything

>>2887933
>should i go into debt for a woodworking business

you should only go into debt for bitcoin speculation
why work yourself to death when it's more profitable to drink cappuccinos in front of a computer screen

>>2887949
why do you need money to speculate bitcoins

also i feel anything to do with computers is full of goofballs

>>2887666
Either way is fine. Just don't miss.

landlord's chinese guys fixed a leaking pipe in my home a few days ago. since then when we turn on the sink after a while of non-use, we'll hear a gurggling sound. i suspect this could be the pipe leaking elsewhere and air entering the system. is this something that happens?

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>>2887213
>Those look straight, and the shaft is probably thinner if you cut the plastic bullshit off.
Why do impact bits typically have a thinner section, anyway?

>>2887987
kys

>>2887949
your body adapts to physical work, mental work is more fatiguing if it's not a fake silicon valley job

>>2887998
building things can be mentally fatiguing too because your mind is always going through the planning and details
esp since deciding on doing it as a business now i'm even more anxious and stressed about things not turning out right and taking too long
i also keep thinking about all the humiliating failure scenarios and the fact that i'm not good socially which could lead to it basically i'm going through mini ptsd since i've already flunked out of one career

>>2887992
They all call it a “torsion zone”. Impact drivers have gotten so strong in recent years that the hammer blows can damage regular bits and potentially the hardware so the thin part of the bit flexes a little bit and makes the blows from the impact driver a little bit softer at the tip

Does anyone have any experience replacing notebook keyboards? I have an ideapad 320 with a fucked up keyboard. In order to get to it I gotta open the bottom and basically remove every single thing. Then there's a thin metal sheet thingy that keeps the keyboard in place and the keyboard itself, both are held in by some round plastic tabs that go through some holes in those parts. There's no way to remove these tabs without cutting them, which is all fine but then I need a way to somehow put it back together after replacing the keyboard. All youtube videos are by some pajeet melting the cut pieces of those tabs with a soldering iron and sort of smearing them over the holes where they were originally to try and get it to stick. That seems to have too high a risk of damaging the plastic membrane on the back of the keyboard or warping it and messing with the traces on the other side and I don't want to ruin my soldering tip and potentially a brand new keyboard trying that.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to attach the keyboard and the plate back into the notebook without doing that? If I get no better idea before the new keyboard arrives I think I'll try super glueing it, but then it will probably suck for the next person working on it (likely to be future me).

>>2888110
Bluetooth keyboard.

>>2888110
That defeats the purpose of having a notebook I can take anywhere, anon.

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>>2883965
Any recommendations for quickly refinishing sections of hardwood flooring before I put my house up for sale? Some of the sections are bare wood

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>>2888201
this stuff is pretty good but you'll probably have to sand the floor down a little bit

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Anything I should look out for when buying a cheap pressure washer?

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I want to make a built-in bookcase on an inside corner wall. However, the bookshelf will have to be 1 foot deep by 5.5 feet wide by almost 16 feet tall with an angled ceiling. Am I better off framing a new wall and covering it with wood paneling instead of the traditional type of plywood box bookshelf?

>>2888271
Gas or electric? And what uses?

Protip- get one of those round surface cleaners if you plan on doing driveways and walkways a lot. Little like 12” for electric pressure washers, 15”+ for gas depending on how powerful the pressure washer is. Amazon foam cannon was a nice accessory too because the on board soap dispensers are often useless.

Right now, I have a portable hand-held solar panel and a Jackery 300 electric generator. The panel does work, but it's very, very slow. My question is, does daisy-chaining solar panels increase the speed at which the battery will be charged? Like, if I bought another solar panel and a splitter, so I could connect both panels to the one charging input on the generator, would that make it charge faster?

>>2888307
You would parallel them, and it should charge it faster. Double the panels means double the sun and double the power.

So I want to start blacksmithing as a hobby, should I buy the much cheaper length of railroad or am anvil for vevor for about 140 bucks? I'd like to have the hardy and pritchell hole starting out but are there any other advantages besides the horn, that an anvil has?

>>2888308
Thanks, Anon. Went ahead and ordered my second solar panel and a splitter.

>>2888319
Are they the same make and model of panel? Or two different ones? I’m not a solar goy, dicked around with some babby panels but that’s it. I’m going to assume any Jackery stuff will be plug n play, as long as you’re not doing like a bare large and small panel where the large one tried to feed into the smaller one or whichever panel is getting more sun will mess with the other. But I’m assuming these engineers thought of it and stuck some dials in there so it’s like a fire hose on full blast and a garden hose halfway open both trying to fill a bucket, and there’s no way the garden hose water is going to flow back up the garden hose and cause issues. A legit charge controller should figure that out as well.

>>2888314
RR track has a slightly curved surface but works well otherwise.

I tend to use a 1/2" steel plate to beat on, but I don't use it for forging.

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How one one finish this to be an even wall? The top drywall will come off because of the terrible stucco and I’ll put new drywall over the entire height but how do I make the bottom part even? Thin boards and spacer plates?

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>>2888494
just put moulding around it so it looks like intentional waitscott shit

>towns water has gotten 10x worse than when I moved here
>tons of calcium hard water, lots of orange spots
>getting gaslit by a salesman telling me its not calcium its iron
>tested it, its calcium
>feel like nothing is making sense
>short of buying a full reverse osmosis system or jury rigging an RV hard water system there is nothing that could help me
>rent
anyone have work arounds or found a shower head that specifically does calcium? I get I'm literally dealing with minerals that can't be easily filtered something about all of this is reeking of a scam.

>>2888110
>any ideas

the original solution is best, coz it's repeatable forever
cut up lil bits of plastic, like from a dead mouse, and melt onto the left-over nubs
if you're worried about your tip, make a new one from a fat nail, and sharpen end to look like a flat screwdriver
if the original factory operation didnt warp the membrane, then this wont either

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>>2888201
>quickly refinishing sections of hardwood

used this stuff on several condos
it's fast and makes it all shiny and new
you just need a (new) clean mop to apply it

https://www.bauhaus.se/varumarken/nitor
they sell 144 products from this brand but not the hydrogen peroxide, my country SUCKS

supposedly hydrogen peroxide above 12% concentration is banned for normal people because it can be used to make explosives, but how about anything from 3% to 12%, since a lot of normal people in burgerland suggest using it for restoring discolored plastic, but it's overpriced in most stores including amazon

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I'm trying to find whatever this piece is or at least what it's called. It goes screwed to the wall and a toilet roll(or towel) holder screws onto it, but the cylinder broke because I punched the thing in a fit of rage.

>>2888724
angry shitting!?
i'm not sure what to call it to help you, but if you broke the part that sets on it and you buy a new toilet roll holder it'll come with the appropriate wall mount

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>>2888731
>it'll come with the appropriate wall mount

you shouldnt be marring your pristine walls with trivial shit like that
better to get a self-standing dispenser
some will hold several rolls of TP
you can change the style at will when you buy the house, or move in to new apartment, or you just get bored with it

>>2888796

plus, if you're a rageaholic, you can pick it up and smash whatever or whoever is causing the rage

I have something stuck to a door with double sided tape. Can I use WD40 and get it of without damaging the paint or do I have to go buy something specialized?

>>2888841
It really does depend on the paint and how well it was applied. I've pulled tape like that off doors and taken off 3 layers of paint down to the bare wood before, because the coats were just applied over each other, nobody sands shit down here. Whatever goo-gone stuff you might use might react poorly with the paint and turn it to goop. Ultimately, this is why you keep a note of the paint you used everywhere in your house, so you can just go buy another pot of it when you inevitably have to do a repair.

>>2888272
Any suggestions on this?

>>2888848
Alright thanks, guess I have to roll the dice. It's left from the previous owner but I don't think they ever painted the doors.
If I destroy it I can just cover it with my name on the door like I'm 5 years old.

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I'm trying to remove this ceiling fan mount but these 3 blue screws will not fucking budge, like not even the slightest amount of "give" from any of them after putting my all into it with my screwdriver.

Are they special? I'm worried about an impact drill even working because the grooves are pretty shallow; part of my issue with the screwdriver came from it slipping out easily. Is there a special tool for getting screws the fuck out of the ceiling?

>>2888907
They look like concrete screws
Is your ceiling concrete?

>>2888699
You'll find another way to make the bomb anon. I believe in you.

>>2888917
Thanks anon I'm an idiot, I forgot it's just concrete right behind the plaster there. So would renting an impact drill be the way to go then?

I just want to remove this entirely and patch the spot since there was never an internal electrical hookup in the first place. The previous owner basically had a ceiling fan plugged into an outlet with a sleeved cord running across the ceiling and down against the wall to that outlet.

I accidentally dropped some unpopped popcorn kernels down my kitchen sink drain. Will anything bad happen? Will they get stuck or create a clog or anything like that? I couldnt get a bunch of them before they fell into the drain. I just poured a bunch of water down in there after it.

>>2888562
Get a water softener nigga

>>2888925
An impact drill aka SDS isn’t going to help remove those things. That’s for making holes in concrete, not driving screws into concrete or removing them. Find a socket that fits on them and use a ratchet to remove the screws if you can’t get it with a screwdriver. Or a small wrench if you can fit it in there

>>2888942
Gotcha, thanks for illuminating me on the limits of an SDS. I guess I'll track down a ratchet and matching socket then- don't think I have clearance for a wrench.

>>2888925
More torque is what you need. The tripfag is referring to a rotary hammer with SDS bits, you might have been thinking of an impact driver. Either way, concrete screws are hardened and brittle, so too much instantaneous torque has a good chance of breaking off the head of the screw. A normal drill might work, a hand wrench might be safer.

>>2888930
please someone say something i am criminally stupid and really paranoid

>>2888930
>>2888961
a small, spherical, hard object
don't see how it would get stuck or clog anything

>>2888930
Your sink hopefully has a p-trap under it.
If you drop enough things in there eventually it will cause problems and you'll have to take it off and clean it out.
Don't worry about it, it's really easy to do.

>>2888724
Time to visit /3dpg/

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Would a radial flow settler built into a square fish crate work?

It works by slowing the flow down and allowing the solids to settle at the bottom. I've only ever seen it built into drums, but I only got rectangular fish crates

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Best way to fill cracks in walls of an old house?

>>2889001
You plaster over them and repaint, or ignore them because they'll just come back anyway.

>>2889007
No point in something like this?
https://www.polycell.co.uk/en/products/polycell-multi-purpose-polyfilla-ready-mixed?size=330GM

>>2889021
Filler is basically the same kind of shit as plaster. If you've only got a few cracks to go over you can probably get a tube of polyfilla and call it a day, but there's a chance you'll still be able to see them a bit after painting if your top coat is thin. The proper way to do it is to tear it back, plaster over the whole area and then sand it smooth, but again, this kind of shit will just crack over time because houses move and expand throughout the year.

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Would it matter if I did the thing on the right so I have more clearance for a monitor arm clamp? I'm talking about the rectangular bit that the actual table top will sit on. The rest of the horizontal beams underneath are for an under shelf / muh aesthetics.

Gonna have a custom desk frame made for a 900x600mm computer table. I literally have no idea what I'm doing but I eyeballed enough google image results + the guy who'll weld it together says it looks okay.

>>2889051
Seems fine, but bear in mind that your monitor arm clamp will be stronger on the metal frame. There are plenty of other ways to attach a monitor arm, like drilling a hole through and bolting it directly to the frame.

If your top is thick/sturdy enough it probably won't matter, but if you're sticking some cheap chipboard on it or something it might not be that stable.

I also do wonder slightly why you're putting the brace halfway down where it could bump your legs, instead of across on the floor where it'll only get in the way of your chair legs, and putting more braces on the other 3 sides for stability. If I was overbuilding a desk I'd go for more reinforcement around the C shape and see if I could get away without any braces across the area where my chair or legs went.

>>2889052
I considered putting a metal plate between the top and clamp, but haven't thought of clamping the arm to both table top AND metal frame too, this changes a lot of things.

The top is probably gonna be some 30mm thick solid wood board, so no particleboard.

The beams halfway down are support for a 300mm shelf, with enough space underneath to not get in the way of my UPS. I'm short af and I rarely stretch my legs under the desk so I doubt it'll be an issue but I'll give some more thought into whether I need the leg space or an underside shelf, thanks.

>>2888907
Take the bit out of your screwdriver.

Did makita change their batteries or some shit? I got a nice cordless screw/drill with batteries. Now I bought a jigsaw and the fucking battery doesn't fit.

>>2889105
Are you retarded? Whats the jig say on the side? Should say XGT for 40v or LXT for 18v. Doubt that it's a 12v.

>>2889117
Makita does indeed make CXT/12v jigsaws, in addition to LXT/18v and XGT/40v models. Currently they sell 3 different CXT jigsaws, 5 of LXT models, and 2 XGT variants. That gives you 10 different cordless jigsaws to choose from, 8 of which are brushless. Thanks Makita. Milwaukee has 12v and 18v ones, but they only sell 5 total cordless jigsaws. Dewalt and Ryobi each only have 4 to choose from, pathetic.

>>2889126
based nippon jigsaw. Need >>2889105 to reply though to get to the bottom of the mystery. I'm betting he bought a 40v on accident.

>>2889117
>>2889132

So first I got the DF457DWE back in 2021. Which has an 18v battery. And then I saw the 18v lxt DJV184Z without a battery.
So here I am, thinking: gee I have makita with 18v battery! I can use that!

Unsure if this is the right thread/board to ask. But I have a shitty IKEA bookshelf and would like to make the backside of the shelves black.
I was thinking of spraypainting it, but would honestly prefer a solution that's non permanent.
Does anyone have any ideas? The only two that come to mind is get a large roll of black carton paper and stick it to the inside of the shelf or maybe even get black fabric if that's not too expensive.

>>2889164
Often the back just comes off as one piece, but it's usually nailed in if it's that cheap shitty backing board stuff.

It'd be pretty trivial to get some vinyl for car wraps and just cover the wood in it though. That's what I'd do as a low effort solution that's easy to remove.

>>2889167
>Often the back just comes off as one piece
Yeah it does, only problem being that the way the shelf is standing at the moment it would be a huge hassle to remove (especially without help). So ideally I'm looking for a solution where I can just remove the shelves and put something in the back while that board is still in place
>vinyl for car wraps
interesting idea I haven't considered, I'll give that a thought

>>2888932
I gave up. Ill just buy land and build a predesign small house.

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This anti-siphon thing on the left changes water poorly (no flush) and sprays water at me from the white adjustable cap, left of the flotation device. I'm begging for an informed person to tell me which parts need changing and how I should go about it.

>>2889256
Just replace the whole anti-siphon device, it's like $20

Can I attach solid wood panels to metal framing with no special considerations?

>>2883985
Availability is not your problem...
Have a(n over fifteen years old) Miele fridge; replacement door handle costs almost as much as a cheap fridge. Still going strong after 15+ years, though.
Anyway, literally here:
https://www.mieleusa.com/c/parts-and-accessories-24.htm

>>2889158
Thats the basic bitch g series18v . The lxt is a different 18v.

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So finally got a clamp meter but the readings are… weird to me. 700W space heater says 0.16A. Do these not work for double insulated cables or something

>>2889442
You have to separate out the live conductor from the neutral. If you just clamp around the whole cable it cancels itself out.

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>>2883965
a copper wire broke off the positive battery terminal on my bike. instead of replacing the wire harness, i want to fix it. One or two copper washers welded to the broken wire, is it doable, & easiest way to do it?

>>2889499
Just splice in a new lead you retard