i want to start repairing my vintage synthesizers and other audio equipment (mostly recapping, some pot/display replacements), what's the best setup for this? Should i get a separate soldering station + a hakko fr-301 or a complete rework station (like the hakko fm-206 or something similar). Money isn't an issue, i just need good equipment to ensure that i don't ruin anything
Get a metcal 500, a cheap($150) microscope, and cheap rework station like pic related. Also get a couple of board vises.
>>2887095>metcal 500how gay lmao
What are you trying to repair?I've got to crack into these at some point.
>>2887085Not really what you asked, but as someone who takes apart small electronics for restoration, buy some chipquick and use it. I've fried a fair number of chips trying to avoid using it and frankly I was just being dumb. Make sure to clean it off the contacts after you are done however, it melts like solder but it doesn't work as solder.
>>2887095if the device OP is working on is in his picture he would have no use for that.
>>2887085> money isn’t an issueSoldering is almost 100% skill and experience.
>>2887085There’s solder remover gun things. Hakko ftw, Yihua makes knockoffs that people seem to like. Cheaper option- the Engineer brand’s solder sucker is very well regarded. But I’m mostly talking out my ass. I use solder wick and it’s mildly annoying, however it works for smaller jobs
>>2887135I like how chipquick marketing shills monitor this bbs
>>2887192could be shills. probably just incompetents.
>>2887085Get 3m of copper solder wick, solder with flux, a soldering iron that goes up to 400c with a sharp tip, a bent needlenose plier.That's all you need to get the components in your pic off, if they have a lot of contact points you pull on them and melt the contacts one by one until you find the one absorbing the majority of your pull force.Then you do it again until the last one lets go, and you take a break after letting the solder set again after each point if you're worried about overheating the board. And you can remove solder with the copper wick each time but that's not always necessary.Sometimes you have to heat from the underside, and sometimes it helps to have a clamp stand (heavy stand with two clamps and sometimes a magnifier, easy to recognize. "handige handjes" / third hand).I don't see a heatplate helping. Hako rework station looks like a meme, just get copper wick. Don't spend more than $200, it'll just demoralize you, aim for about $140 in equipment.
>>2887192Man, when I'm trying to pull a 48pin chip in some tiny old eletronics I can >A. get a proper shield for the chip, blast it with heat, pull the old chip and still manage to both rip a lead and fry a nearby capacitor.or>B. melt some solder, pull the fucker off, wick up the excess.If you have a better way of reviving old ass digimon feel free to tell me.
if you're gonna get a plunger solder sucker, get one with (replaceable) silicon tubing at the tip
