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I made a spoon, fork and spatula in juniper wood (pic not mine).

For the finish I sanded them by hand with 200 grit sandpaper, they came out pretty smooth, but then I washed them and the water made the wood fibers stand back up and out.

Is there a way to get a smooth result that stays smooth after contact with water ?
>>
>>2890608
oil it
use something like culinary grade mineral oil/parafin
>>
>>2890608
Sand again, or try scraping next time.
>>
>>2890608
>juniper wood
why'd you use that
>>
>>2890611
This

You gotta get some butcher block oil. Or mineral oil but it smells a little funky. I just went through this getting some nice acacia cutting boards for the wife and I realized I should’ve been using the oil on all of these wooden spoons and spatulas years ago. The oil will suck into the pores of the wood and make it easier to clean and look like new.
>>
>>2890608
Water has the effect of standing the grain up, so do it again, and sand it again. I think boiled linseed oil is food safe, so use that to finish it after your grain stops standing up.

If you try to finish your project before you get all of the end grain smooth with water applications, the finish will make that happen and it will look terrible.
>>
>>2890796
Long story, it's because once on a long hiking trip I made myself a spoon in that wood because I happened to find a dead juniper, then later I met a girl during another trip and she saw me eating with eat and asked me to teach her to carve one for herself, and we started with the same wood but we ended up spending our time spooning in my tent with my own wood instead and never finished the actual spoon... and these were a christmas gift for her, meant as a memento, so I made them in juniper too.

Additionally it smells nice, looks nice, has a fine grain, and it's a pretty hard wood for a conifer, but still easy to carve.

>>2890801
>>2890611
Okay I'll advise her to try that.
>>
>>2890809
I see. So sanding repeatedly will bring it to a point where water application does not cause the grain to stand up anymore ?
I didn't initially plan to oil them because I expected the oil to wash off with use. Won't that be an issue ?
>>
>>2890810
you can just hook up with chicks whilst enjoying nature and not even have to marry them later? thats cool
>>
>>2890818
She's smart and nice and cute and I would have possibly considered marrying her... except she was in love and in an open relationship with someone else.
>>
File: 575476645756.jpg (121 KB, 1464x625)
121 KB
121 KB JPG
fine steel wool
for wood without pores there is nothing better, effort less mirror polish and burnish. Sandpaper cannot give that effect
>>
>>2890848
does it work over stain
does it work with something like PU or oil
>>
>>2891020
It a type of abrasive, you need to start over anyway
>>
>>2890608
this is ultimately why people preferred not using wood utensils in the first place
>>
>>2890608
sand again. finish in mineral oil. boil one a year to sterilize the wood and remove any cooking gunk
>>
Has anyone used hassui or liquid glass finish? I think you'd still have to do a good job sanding but it's supposed to be food safe and a good sealer. It costs more than I want to spend to try since I don't make utensils.

>>2890811
Sand lightly and barely. If you cut too far, it'll fuzz again. Read about raising the grain and what happens at a cellular level, I'm too lazy to type it.
>>
finer sandpaper, then coat with beeswax
>>
>>2890611
>>2891083
just use tung oil, wipe on a few coats and let it air dry and polymerize
>>
finish of any kind on cooking utensil is disgusting
>>
>>2890612
>>2890809
These are correct. The grain is going to raise when wood gets wet. Period. If you want it smooth after it gets wet you have to sand again, then again, possibly a fourth time as well. Scraping works better than sanding, but will still probably take a repetition. This is basic woodworking stuff, sad that so few seem to know about it here now.
>>
the key is to cut the finish rather than abrade, scrapers and special knives are made for this.



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