New Year EditionPost woodworking related questions, projects, ideas etc.>resourceshttps://rentry.co/trc3fwya>previous>>2874334
>>2891000I think Matt Estlea deserves a mention here. If there is a better source for learning fine furniture-making using hand tools I don't know about it.https://www.freeonlinewoodworkingschool.com/https://www.youtube.com/@freeonlinewoodworkingschool/videoshttps://mattestlea.com/https://www.youtube.com/@mattestlea/videosHe hasn't had much success with the fine woodworking stuff unfortunately so now he mostly makes slop content but I still think he deserves a spot under resources for his excellent videos on joinery and tool use/care.
>>2891073saw his workshop vids and do you really need that much space to produce marking knives and tiny mallets
Just finished a couple of small puzzle boxes. The larger one is from a plan in one of the magazines. The smaller one is my own design and hopefully easy enough for a 4 year old to open.
>>2891000Questions to anyone using chisels or wooden mallets.I wanted to make a big mallet, the kind you would use to drive posts into the ground.I took a sawed piece of tree trunk and decided on chiseling a rectangular hole throu it so I can slip a tapered board in for a handle. Problem was the thiccness of the trunk, my chisel was only getting about past halfway point. At this point I kinda cheated by drilling pilot holes with a long drill bit so I can start chiselling from the other side and meet in the middle. It worked.Question is how would one do it with no drilling? Just eyeballing it? Longer chisel to go through from one side? How to scoop the wood from inside the hole tho? My hole was about inch by three inches and I managed to go about 4 or 5 deep before deciding to try other side, and at that point scooping out wood from the bottom of hole after going around the edges was incredibly difficult, I don't see how it could be done even with longer chisel, it would have same issues.It was my first real use of a chisel tho, much fun but not sure if I was doing things totally correctly. Mallet ended up pretty nice, about 3kg on about meter long handle. Also, any idea on how to prevent the head from splitting on impact? Some kind of bands around trunk/head near striking surfaces?
>>2891400> Some kind of bands around trunk/head near striking surfaces?Yup they used to have metal bands. Sometimes just a piece of metal strip hammered to fit the shape and welded. Sometimes in a small recess about half an inch from the edge. The mallet gets thicker as you hammer, pulling the band tighter.Anyway I recall Paul sellers has a nice video on chiseling deep mortises. Sometimes just use a flat chisel to break the grain apart. Mortise chisels push the pieces away from the cut line pretty effectively, breaking them away easier as you chop and make scooping easier. And they come in like 8” long
Making a custom lightswitch plate to replace the ugly white one in a newly painted room. Unfinished wood in the foreground, working on the finish right now.
Here's a link to The Complete Japanese Joinery in pdf format. https://pdfcoffee.com/the-complete-japanese-joinery-pdf-pdf-free.html
>>2891447Woods too thin.I’ve heard of that.
>>2891000That poor man. Being held at gunpoint by a carpentry elf. He's a baker and has no idea how to build what the elf wants. Once the elf figures it out its all over
>>2891400If you're chiseling a through mortise by hand then you should mark it on both sides and chisel from both ends regardless of how deep it is. You'll never go perfectly straight through so it's about giving yourself every advantage. If it's so deep that you need to scoop you should use a mortise chisel (pic related) and make cuts across the grain so close together that it more or less turns into chips in the bottom of the mortise by itself. You should also leave enough meat at the edges of the mortise that you can lever against it without bruising the face. Once you're through you'll have a better idea of how close/far you are from plumb and you can tune it with a firmer chisel.
>>2891673And if you don't have mortising chisels, it's better to use a drill to hog out most of the waste, then use your regular chisels to clean out and straighten the mortise.
>>2891411>>2891673Thanks alot, even a quick look at videos shown my clear lack of understanding on how to use a chisel properly. Next time should go smoother.
>>2891447Looks cool, you know it’s a code violation right
>>2891748Well, fuck. I didn't know that. I want to say I don't care but I do. Guess I'll just paint the metal plate and go make a piece of furniture or something.
>>2891748Why would that be a code violation?
>>2891748>>2891830I mean, you should look up local building codes to be sure first.
>>2891830It's not UL listed and almost certainly wouldn't pass combustible testing since it's made out of wood.Maybe you could stick it ontop of a metal plate
>>2891802>>2891830>>2891872See NEC 406.6 Receptacle Faceplates (Cover Plates). Faceplates have to be either metallic (and grounded), or non-combustible and dielectric. The way around this is to hollow out the back of the wooden 'decoration' and have it fit over a metal faceplate. If you look at wooden decorative faceplates at a big box store, they all have a flimsy metal plate in them that fits the absolute minimum requirements.
>>2891512he knows one trick though he bakes the sawdust back into beams
this is not true right >>2891244
>>2891000First time posting in /wwg/, I've got this 10 year old Ikea table which has these marks and craters (I've got corrosive sweat). Is there any way to refinish or save this table? I've got NO woodworking tools and NO space to do this, I would have to rent out a space or workshop for this.If so, how would I go about doing this?>INB4 buy a new table1. Ikea ditched the formfactor of 150cmX75cm2. This is /diy/, go consoom somewhere else please
>>2892137It's solid particleboard at best, more likely just thin sheets with cardboard spacers in the middle. The tabletop itself is basically trash. The legs might be reusable, but you'll need to budget it out yourself what your Home Depot or whatever carries.
>>2892139>It's solid particleboard at best, more likely just thin sheets with cardboard spacers in the middleIf it's particleboard, it's VERY dense particleboard (pic related), it's in any case massive (and fucking heavy). Ikea used to sell massive and cardboard tables, I got the more expensive massive tabletop.>The legs might be reusableThey're two Alex: https://www.ikea.com/de/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-white-00473546/>but you'll need to budget it out yourself what your Home Depot or whatever carries.The hardware stores here (germany) are always dickriding Ikea and only sell formats that Ikea currently sells, i.e. there's no 150x75, I already went to every hardware store in town and checked (large metropolitan city with over 20 hw stores btw).
>>2892137That's either a black paint or melamine. I would sand back most of the top outdoors so I didn't have to deal with the dust. If you're not just touching up one spot, use a random orbit sander because sanding by hand is the pits. Start with 60-80g if you're impatient then work up to 120-220g. Get a color matched sample size of paint or hit it with a spray can of the closest black. Shellac or prime might be needed to get the paint to stick to that MDF trash. Think about wet sanding with a 600-800g between paint layers. Think about getting a spray can of clear too to help blend all of your fuckery.
>>2892141Scratch all that, buy some lumber and build yourself something better. You can take the sandpaper you bought and use it to get yourself beautiful finish joinery.
>>2892141>$79That about the cost of one proper hardwood dovetail drawer. It is what it is.
>>2892137>expending any effort whatsoever to preserve a decade-old IKEA particleboard tabletopIf you're willing to rent out a shop for this, MAKE a new table and don't waste your time on something that was garbage when you bought it. This isn't "DIY spirit," it's mental illness. Buy another table from somewhere that's not IKEA.
>>2892141A decent place should have thick plywood and a panel cutter to sell you exactly what you need for size. If you really want to reinforce it against what you've got going on, you can buy lower grade plywood and laminate it with something a lot tougher, like Formica. That can be mostly done with just a knife and a few dowels in addition to the contact cement.
>>2892137Fill craters with practically anything. Woodfiller, drywall mud, bondo, ground up ramen noodles and Elmer's glue. Whatever.Get some 60 or 80 grit sandpaper and a piece of wood and sand them down.Put a sticker/vinyl wrap/adhesive drawer liner/whatever pretty thing over the whole table. Now you're all done.
>>2892142>That's either a black paint or melamineIt's definitely paint, it scratches unlike melamine which is rather scratch resistant afaik.>If you're not just touching up one spot, use a random orbit sander because sanding by hand is the pitsI'd consider blasting this thing with paint stripper, sand the fucker down and and re-paint or just varnish/oil it if 1. the paint stripper would not fuck up the wood and 2. it wouldn't cost more than just ordering a plate from the internet and furnishing that instead.>>2892143>Scratch all that, buy some lumber and build yourself something better.Seems like I'm going to do either that>You can take the sandpaper you bought and use it to get yourself beautiful finish joinery.I haven't bought anything yet>>2892144>>$79>That about the cost of one proper hardwood dovetail drawer. It is what it is.Checked the dubs, but I bought them for 30€ each back then I think. Ikea's prices have gone off the deep end, especially if you consider that they build shit-tier stuff.>>2892146>If you're willing to rent out a shop for this, MAKE a new table and don't waste your time on something that was garbage when you bought it.Yeah, that's more sensible.>This isn't "DIY spirit," it's mental illnessNot to be THAT guy, but I literally am mentally ill (autism, adhd, computer scientist)>Buy another table from somewhere that's not IKEA.Thing is, NOBODY in town sells table-tops that are 150x75. I'd have to order a plate off the internet.>>2892149>A decent place should have thick plywood and a panel cutter to sell you exactly what you need for size.They have plywood, but I don't really want to use a plywood table in my office. I'd prefer solid, one piece wood>If you really want to reinforce it against what you've got going on, you can buy lower grade plywood and laminate it with something a lot tougher, like Formica.CONT.
>>2892152CONT.>>2892149>That can be mostly done with just a knife and a few dowels in addition to the contact cement.At the risk of being called a hippie, I don't want ANY polymers / plastics on my table. I sweat HEAVILY and my pores would take up micro-plastic like spongebob vacuuming up water after running around in sandy's dome.>>2892150I feel like the others are right, I'd be polishing a turd if I went through with this. I'll buy a large mouse mat for the time being and then get a solid oak table I think.Thanks lads! Pic related, it's you guys.
>>2892154Fair enough. I think the other anon made a mistake for calling to sand it down instead of filling them up and knocking them down.You'd probably be in for like $60 with my plan. Maybe $40 if you actually used ramen noodles and cheap glue
>>2892150lol yeah he could vinyl thermofoil wrap it. There are companies that will wrap your entire kitchen but it makes me a little ill seeing it in person.
>>2892164I like this. Noodle her, plane her flat, and spray her.
>>2892137you just know
>>2892152>>2892154https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/anfallare-tabletop-bamboo-00465141/They do sell one that's solid bamboo and close to the size you want.A home center will also have solid wood Butcher Block top, and there are custom sellers who'll sell you one the exact size and material you want.
>>2892170>chamfered piece of plank for $100how do people pull these scams
>>2892171Wait until you find out how much it costs to make one yourself.
>>2892172why is it some weird finish that needs you to slave away for hours that sawhorse thing that raised the table at an angle was nice but how do you even pick up the heavy thing to set it do you have to put it on the floor everytime you need to change angle or elevate it
whoa that looks finnicky but probably just werks with good fit wonder how much it wobbles with time
i think they're just going on the assumption that nobody will put excessive weight on it when it's tilted in 'draft' mode that's clever but what if someone uses it in standing mode and chucks their whole gaymin setup on it will those slats take the side to side force
>>2892178There is zero reason to use that for a gaming setup, they have plenty of actual sit-stand desks for that.
>>289216460bux in the US, not here in Germany.>>2892165I hate vinyl. My floor is vinyl and my sweat destroys that too, pic related is the floor under my mattress. That ... whatever that spot is ... formed when I the rona back in Feb 2020 as one of the first humans on earth (am unvaxxed though).>>2892169... what>>2892170I've seen that table in person, it's horrid IRL. Thing is, I could get a 140x65 any time, the reason I'm so autistic about 150x75 is because I have another 200x75 table right next to it, so the larger table would have a gap and be shorter as well (in depth).
>>2892179you mean those fancy ones with electronics and actuators
>>2892171> bambooI took a look at some ¾" bamboo flooring an it was insanely heavy for bamboo.Turn out it was vacuum impregnated with epoxy, so it was as heavy as a solid block of plastic.And, insanely expensive.
>>2892183I have the same problem.Get a glass tabletop and make the wood base under it to fit.Good for 1000 years.
>>2892187it's probably not impregnated with epoxy but wonder how you turn bamboo into solid plank maybe just laminate
>>2892186They have manual crank as well.
