Hopefully my snapmaker J1S doesn't burn my house down now that I'm feeding it from a GFCI breaker instead of the CAFCI that it kept tripping.

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>>2948803
That's a good idea, but I'm still not sure about where the place the split. Would it be better to do it close to one of the brackets, through one of the vents where there's already not very much connecting the two sides, on the beam directly under the NUC?

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Had this absolute insane lift on my abs print. Next time i will use normal support. Any other things i should try? Turn off part cooling?
Centauri carbon running orcaslicer 0.4 nossle with generic abs preset. Some random brand abs that usually prints fine that you can see on the left. About 34celsius in the chamber. 100c bed and 260c nozzle.

>>2948574
>zero safety data

What entity would be likely to do real peer reviewed, through research into what filaments give off which things and how bad that is for people/animals in a house and what can mitigate it and by how much?

And if the answer is nobody, the 3D printing community might want to collectively do the research ourselves and/or pay for it to be done. Not knowing isn't going to hurt anybody, and if people are going to look back at this and think about it in the same way as lead paint or asbestos or mercury, I'd rather start working on countermeasures now. I've got a big blower with a carbon filter and a hepa filter in the room I print in, but its not like its hooked up to them, it's just sort of sitting around on low speed.

>>2948815
If you need strength you'll want to cut it where there's the least empty space, so somewhere not right next to or on top of one of the big holes. I would go either in between one of the small slits or on the far right.

>>2948817
Can you heat the chamber any higher? If not with an internal heater, can you slip some heating element into it and power it externally? I'm assuming its an enclosed chamber. Another thing you might try with tree supports is to make the bases wider or give them brims or something.

>>2948821
Bentobox with noctua fans (I tried the arctic server fans and they are way too powerful and loud) and then the printer with another purifier in an enclosure or tent.
That should help with particles. It's alot easier to filter particles in a small enclosure than a larger room.

>let dried petg sit in a bag for two days
>it suddenly prints noticeably better
huh

>>2948805
Are you connecting your 3d printer to a circuit with lots of other stuff on it?

For the J1S on the web site I see:
>Rated Voltage: AC 100 V–240 V, 50 Hz/60 Hz
>Rated Current: 4.4 A Max.

This is pretty low.

>>2948815
make those stupid honeycomb walls solid and print it as shown, flanges down on an angle.

if you're going to insist it can't work without trying it and cut it up you might as well make a simpler one from scratch that slots together and orients each part for strength. I mean basically cut on the red line and make that piece seperate with a slot and have the tray tab into it. the whole design is weird like why triangles in that orientation? why is the back lip square if it's going to be printed as an overhang. why the hell the honeycomb sides? it's not stronger in that orientation and for a 3d print in a warm environment it's just dumb.

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>>2948821
If it was dangerous don't you think there would be evidence instead of the same "oh god VOCs" fear mongering the paint companies use to sell $50 gallons to new moms?

And you act like the Romans didn't KNOW lead was dangerous, there has ALWAYS been evidence. I know that sounds like it supports your argument but the difference is there IS evidence lead is harmful.

In the last 5 years something over 8 million complete printers have shipped, that doesn't account for voron types, and yet there is no evidence that PLA is harmful? There are dudes who hang out with 50 printers in a storage unit running printfarms all day in addition to millions who run their printer on their desk or by their bed. Why the fuck do you think you're going to die if you don't put a class 6 containment and ventilation system on your printer? It's fucking STUPID as fuck and I wish you faggots would shut the fuck up about it.

>>2948914
I've measured the current draw on that circuit without the printer, there's no way it's overloaded.

>>2948918
maybe go back to house wiring 101

>>2948921
Please elaborate. I'm pretty sure a 20 amp breaker tripping at roughly 6 amps of load is not an over-load trip.

>>2948917
Nobody says you're going to die from it. You can breath India tier air pollution for years and not die. But it's not good for you.
You can live next to a busy road and feel fine. But the link between air pollution and all kinds of health issues is undeniable.

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>>2948929
>Honestly, it is actually RARELY a wiring issue that causes AFCI breakers to nuisance trip, it is far more common for it to be an incompatibility with certain types of loads. Electronic power devices, like "inverters" cause electrical distortion that can often look like an arc signature to the AFCI circuit. it used to be that inverter loads were extremely rare in residential applications. But now to save energy, they are in all manner of appliances; refrigerators, microwaves, washers, dishwashers, dryers vacuums etc. etc. As time has gone on, the AFCI mfrs have tweaked their algorithms and filtering to help with this, so if you have an OLDER CAFCI, (which is would be if labeled as Murray) it might help to get a new Siemens version.
the salient point being it's not the breaker tripping it's the circuit interrupt because of the type of appliance.

also measuring amps is an inaccurate measure of load as it fluctuates over time. at least I was taught the proper way is to compare watts of all appliances possibly causing load, essentially the housewife plugging in the vacuum method. but again it doesn't seem that's what is happening just that your conflating the causes.

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>>2948937
>But it's not good for you.
[citation needed]

>>2948968
Okay, we're on the same page that this is a characteristic of the load issue rather than a magnitude of the load issue, and I'm not being pedantic enough because I'm referring to the thermo-magnetic circuit breaker and the CAFCI that are packaged together with a common reset handle as the same device.

What I'm worried about is the printer may genuinely have an internal arc fault from a loose crimp or something.

>>2948973
pick it up and shake it while doing various tasks (heating nozzle, heating bed, printing)

Are there any good resources/books/chapter of book that explain how to properly design fan blades/propeller?
>>2948817
I usually increase bed temp by 5-10 degrees when it happens. I've also seen some people printing parameter around the part to prevent wrapping.

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>>2948978
>Are there any good resources/books/chapter of book that explain how to properly design fan blades/propeller?
no. went all the way through fluid dynamics ME310 and never once did we look at propellers.

Balance is more important than shape, you can just tilt flat planes and make blades to start with. curving the plane surface and flattening the curve as you go out (probably to provide rotational speed consistency, if it was strength from the distance house fans wouldn't also get bigger blades as the angle of attack lessened)

you aren't going to make a more efficient blade without advanced modeling and you also aren't going to go too wrong aping any existing cooling fan- just wear eye protection when you fire them up, grenading thin plastic is no joke.

>>2948817
different spot on the bed
raft

Anyone with a P1S tried modding their bed so it goes over 100 C? Been trying to print with ASA recently and it's turned into a warpy mess.

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>>2949001
oh yeah and I've never had a problem with ASA

>>2948817
If you print horizontally long and narrow parts with warp prone filaments you're asking for trouble. Personally I'd reorient the print, but you can also make gargantuan brims, like 50mm wide, they should help with adhesion. In your case, since you have tree supports you can massively expand the first layer of the support, I can't recall the name of the setting right now, but it's easy to find in Orca. Of course ideally you want a hotter bed and chamber.

>trying to print ASA
>print is as big as the bed
numb.jpg

>>2948817
>pre drying a spool for 8 hours to get ready for an ABS print
>see this pic
what do you guys print as test objects? benchy?

how do I get rid of the marks/scratches that are left after removing supports? they look like deep white scratches

dusted off the printers doing some bed leveling passes

>>2949045
print plans??

>>2949056
none just wanted to see more hosts in my lan's nmap -sP scan

>>2948802
My printer blew another fuse and soldering surface-mounts suck. So I'm looking at an infinity-Z printer. The ones with a belt for the bed and printing at 45 degrees, so it just keeps scooting over forever.

From what I've read, sticking to the bed is a constant problem because every layer needs to stick to the bed. It needs to niche slicer support. The belt WILL walk off the two drums, eventually. But getting them in sync is vital.

The CR-30 from Creality was kinda the original idea. Yeah, with the help of the busty Chinese chick. It is heavily discounted. $600 from $1000.... Wait, no, they're all sold out But everyone kinda agrees that it sucked.
There are chinese knockoffs, like "IdeaFormer IR3v2... which might even be better quality that Creality. It's not a high bar.

Are they just too niche and more trouble than they're worth?

>>2948817
Yeah, that's warping from the plastic cooling down. It shrinks a little as it cools. It's not a big deal until you have long stretches of the stuff, because it accumulates. The supports are fine. A raft might help keep them from popping up.

But the real solution is the put a box over the printer and keep it warm enough that the warping is minimized. A little space-heater with a thermocouple is a good investment.

I never printed petg. How different is it from other co-polyesters like nGen? And how annoying are its water absorbing tendencies? Is it fine to leave a spool in the enclosure with the printer for a while if during printing the temps can rise to 40C and air humidity is very very low for a while?

>>2948817
Try a glue stick. It's the only way I've been able to get shit to stick. The only problem is I can't get it thin enough, might have to water it down somehoohw.

>>2949084
so the bambu brand gluestick is different from the purple elemers stuff, it goes on thinner and clear and doesn't wind up with permatexture that imprints into your bottoms. I'm not saying go buy bambu glue but there might be other non-school options out there that are better for printers.

I've also heard good stuff about hairspray. Never tried it myself.

>>2949022
I have never printed a test object.

>>2949064
One came up used locally and I just couldn't come up with a valid use case. The layers are 45º to the surface so even production volume prints come out weird looking from the layer lines.

>>2949080
I only ever had a problem with one roll that was probably bad from the factory. I've used it a fair amount in different colors both as base print and also as PLA support interface.

>>2948817
connect the brims with additional geometries and add another geometry as anchor on the far side.

>>2948817
use a draft shield and or manage your temperatures better

>after trying for nearly the entire weekend to design a kinesio tape cutter I finally give up and take the roll of tape into the office to use the laser cutter.
>Hey anon, do you know why the laser is on fire?
Fuck this. I'm grabbing the scissors.

a dud has repaired my printer and fixed almost all problems except that now i have a leaky hotend (i did not have dis problem b4), i now have to fix dis problem meaning changing the nozzle cleaning ect but i wanna use boron nitride paste on the nozzle threads again (faster heating and probably gain a little volumetric flow ect) the correct steps should be :

1. heat and remove nozzle,
2. cool down the hotend then put a new nozzle w a bit of the paste (in cold too), and wait for tomorrow or heat to 90-95ºC, as to not boil the still fresh paste
3. heat the nozzle very hot like 280ºC and do the final torque (needed due to metal expansion)

my plan is fine or not? not much info on the net

>>2949299
no just remove the nozzle cold and put the new one back cold
heat it tomorrow and check it's tight not tighten it more
if you don't understand this figure it out you're going to wreck your shit trying to fuse it like a goddammed monkey

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Why yes, I use my 3D printer for art
>the art
>Captcha, great news for PA: TNDPA

>>2949371
is it really art if its just printing someone else's work? on a machine built by someone else?

cad your own dickaraurus rex

>>2949372
not him but it's not like it loses its art status only cause you didn't make it. Obviously you can say "i made this" if you just printed someone else's work, but it's still art nonetheless. A painting is still art even if you buy it off the actual artist

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>>2949372
>is it really art if its just printing someone else's work?
it's art but no different from printing a painting on your desktop printer or buying from one of those metal print poster houses.

maybe a better question is a basic shape with infill + 0 top layers layers art?

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Dear god, i am such a fucking retard. Trying to adjust the vref on my ender 3v2, I broke the potentiometer screw and it is now locked a ta toasty 1.5 (when it should be 0.9.

Do I just buy another 4.2.2/4.2.7 or do I get a bigtreetech equivalent? (Soldering at that small scale is out of my skill)

>>2949413
...Might be able to simply turn it with a needle-nose or suture clamp (super useful in general, btw).

>>2949441
AFAIK in that potentiometer desing, the screw itself (what has fallen in mine) is what makes contact with the resistance (black circle around it). Turning the inner thingy wouldnt do anything.