Thread lost its flavour:>>2951482>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>OP source:https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOPbake at page 10, post in old thread>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics>Project ideas:https://hackaday.iohttps://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/https://adafruit.comhttps://makezine.com/category/electronics/>Books:https://libgen.is/>Principles (by increasing skill level):Mims III, Getting Started in ElectronicsGeier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything ElectronicKybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching GuideScherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for InventorsHorowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics>Recommended software tools:KiCAD 6+CircuitmakerLogisim Evolution>Recommended Components/equipment:OctopartLCSCeBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)Local independent electronics distributorsladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html>Most relevant YouTube channels:EEVblogW2AEWMoritz Klein>microcontroller specific problems?>>>/diy/mcg>I have junk, what do?Shitcan it>consumer product support or PC building?>>>/g/>household/premises wiring?More rules-driven than engineering, try /qtddtot/ or sparky general first>antigravity and/or overunity?Go away
is anyone else having problems with digikey, mouser etc throwing up anti clanker screens? digikey is particularly bad because it doesn't even work. I simply can't order from them any more
>>2957314Change your DNS and try again.
>>2957324I fail to see how changing DNS provider would fix anything
>>2957314fuck off adu
>>2957314yeah digikey does it like every 2 clicks
>>2957314Did you try unplugging the buttplug and plugging it back in?
>>2957310i recently repaired a SMPS based welder capable of 200A max output. i need a way to load test it. i live in a cuckpartment so i can't really test it by just using it to weld. is there any reason why a car battery tester (carbon pile resistor) wouldn't work if i'm careful with duty cycle and the fact that these load testers are rated for ~12V while my welder outputs ~24V?
>>2957779oh wait i think i answered my own question. i didn't consider that carbon would arc to itself.https://youtu.be/-uCXQdYspnI?si=8mC14rCtad0mYlq2&t=384
>>2957779A resistive load tester won’t test shit on a welder.A welder makes a lot of arcs generates high frequency, high voltage spikes that will kill everything in the SMPS when actually used as a welder unless one of the fundamental design goals was to harden it from those effects.You probably shouldn’t have integrated your welder into your rental apartments structural construction so it can never be moved.
I have some small electronics projects I want to do. Perfboard is crazy expensive because no one makes the basic "big sheet of silicate; if you want connections make em yourself" stuff, only the fancy inlaid copper sheet breadboard run style stuff (which is inappropriate for my uses anyway since I want to make pretty small items and don't want to fuck around cutting traces/COPING with pre-installed ones)What's something I can get big sheets of to mount parts to and solder them down? I don't mind just using wire to make the "traces", you would already do that with oldschool non-conductive perfboard anyway. I also don't care if it's not real perfboard or specifically whatever silicate stuff PCBs are made out of. I just need it to be non-conductive and able to survive being soldered on/near.
>>2957839>no one makes the basic "big sheet of silicateby Gorm, that stuff is everywherefind it using the arcane incantation ''copperless perfboard''
>>2957839For shit with holes, “punched unclad laminate”. For stuff without holes, just sheets of fibreglass / garolite/ g10.Take the router-pill. Or a fibre laser if you’re fancy.
>>2957854>$53.80 for 11.5x19.5 GAH DOOD
>>2957912
>>2957913unironically tempted to just make more rats' nests like the shit im tryna replace but using hand-cut brass sheeting for wiring instead of single conductor wire harvested from ethernet stolen right out the wall
>>2957915Is there any reason you don't want to use protoboard?https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Prototype-Soldering-Compatible-Arduino/dp/B072Z7Y19F
>>2957918never heard of that name but also I am mad jewish and want the cheapest possible thing in general. literally just cost avoidance.also i want to be able to saw it apart to size without making a mess and I know "PCBs" and that type of material are not exactly hard to cut, but would make quite the mess unless I have a very thin very high speed saw. Which I do, but I am not making any cuts longer than 6in with a fucking dremel, that'll take forever. I wanna be able to use my tenon saw and then just file it if I have to.
>>2957922You can just score the PCB and snap it. Be careful about airborne silica as breathing it can permanently wreck your lungs.
>>2957927fuck this shit i'm just gonna use balsa.
>>2957922>want the cheapest possible thing in generalthere are deals if you look around, like this local surplus storei'd have thought Temu or Aliexpress would be cheap but all their stuff has copper
>>2957984just dissolve the copper with HCl + H2O2
>>2957985
>>2957998lye. the answer is lye. boiling lye solution
https://pacificpower.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Programmable-AC-Power-Source-ADF-Series-Datasheet.pdfhow do these accomplish AC+DC or DC+AC output? i'm assuming the "AC" part is basically a class D amplifier, so is the "DC" basically a high power bias tee? or is there something else that i'm missing?
>>2958001What do you do with the rubbery bones?
>>2958006grind them up then dispose of them in the woods somewhere. or dump them in the sea
>>2958006you can also burn the bones and use the resulting bone char as fertilizer. I did that with my garden this year. with moose antlers, not 70kg chicken bones of course
I thought components "burning" was just an euphemism but they actually catch fire if you pass too much current to themI may be too retarded for this
>>2958035electric igniters work on this principle. a cheap way to make some is to just use a low value resistor
>>2958035well as long as you learn from it you're doing deeds andthats all that matters
>>2958035>I may be too retardedAren't we all just a bunch of retards? Besides, that makes it more fun.
>>2957310>wanna use microcontroller as usb host>usb device I’m using needs a lot of power >powered hubs seem expensive Is it really as simple as cutting the power wires from a usb cable and wiring those directly to the 5v power supply that’s already powering the microcontroller or would that cause trouble?
SSR anon here. finally got around to wiring everything up. pi box has four jacks:>3.5mm phono for relay>barrel jack for power>2x3.5mm for 1-wire (DS18B20)going to test it some more and upgrade the software but it's already looking much nicer than the previous version with electromechanical relays
>>2958126>already looking much nicerdont wanna rain on your parade but this feels a lot like 1999in 2025 we can get tiny smart plugs for penniescontrolled by our phones or tablets from anywhere in the worldwe can set schedules or control them with our voices using Siri/Alexa/Google
>>2958129yeah but you can't program them yourself. what I'm doing is controlling a heater based on the electricity price. this involves a thermal model of the basement, so it can do feedforward controlalso those plugs are cloudshit. I use a reverse SSH tunnel to my home server in my apartment since my house is an hour's drive away. I also have a "backup" system which broadcasts temperatures over APRS
>>2958112Backfeeding power over USB can be an issue if you connect the +5V lines together. See: the Ender 3 USB port killer. But not connecting the 5V lines brings up questions with regards to power-cycling order. You’d be better off with a dedicated USB power booster, or at least checking if the USB device is tolerant of voltage on its data lines without any supply voltage.Otherwise it’s probably fine to put a diode just on the USB host’s +5V pin, so power can’t back-feed into it. Feeding ~4.4V into a 5V PSU’s output is probably fine.>>2958130I think there’s more open alternatives, using the Matter framework and some firewalling, considering you already have a home server.
>>2957310Sorry to bother, I'm in a hurry to get a crash course about analog integrated circuits (oscilators, comparators, a-d/d-a .filters and all that).Do you know a book or a tube channel that can tell me the equations straight, without a lot of theory?Thanks.
>>2958165I have a test for the next weekend and because of the job, I havent read in the last 6 months.
>>2958005Class-D amplifiers can output DC biases naturally. Just bias the duty-cycle and don’t put a DC-blocking cap on the output. The totem-pole of a class-D amp with bipolar power rails is identical to that of a bipolar buck converter after all. But in this case I’m not too sure, as doing that with your output amp would reduce the maximum amplitude of the output wave. Still, I think this is the case, as the maximum AC amplitude is 300VAC, which is 425V-peak, and the maximum DC voltage is 425V.If you used an LC splitter like that, your capacitor would need to be able to pass 45Hz at 16A and withstand 300V, which is probably a capacitor the size of a man.>>2958165I believe there was some video lectures on anti-aliasing and anti-imaging filters on Lantertronics’ YT channel, he does other stuff on analog electronics too.
>>2958168Thanks I'll give a try.!!
>>2958130You can control "shelly" plugs yourself using simple http curl calls over the wireless network, no cloud access required.
>>2958183yeah well I built this myself. so there.
>>2958168>If you used an LC splitter like that, your capacitor would need to be able to pass 45Hz at 16A and withstand 300V, which is probably a capacitor the size of a man.kek that's a good point, didn't think of that.
>>2958001>boiling lye solutionWait, you mix lye, water and boil it the whole time you dunk the chicken in it? Sounds pretty hazardous.
>>2958290hot lye is no joke. if you want your chicken extra spicy use KOH instead of NaOH
Soo... I might end up buying a bunch of soldering stuff alongside multimeter because I want to get into electronics by trying to fix an angle grinder that was broken for few years.I would like to know if it's worth to get deeper in the rabbit hole for practical uses. I'm bad at math, but I suppose the most basic stuff will be easy to look up.
>>2958297I was considering buying a cheap kit on the internet, but I don't want to end up with some utter trash after few uses, so I'm considering driving to physical store to take a look. Things in physical stores tend rather mediocre than bad, I think.
>>2958297do you know what's wrong with it? might just be the brushes that need replacing, assuming it's got a wall plug and therefore universal motorif it's on of them battery powered brushless ones then yeah that might be an interesting test case
>>2957839Just use plain copper clad boards and do the good old breadboards (not the crappy solder-less technology). Learn from the masters. This reminds me of my boomer coworker, the usual electronics guy with white beard and everything, he still uses some ancient DOS software for PCB layout and his desk is as messy as can be (cables, solder balls, components crammed into every corner, boxes of old 90s EDA software...). One time some work safety roasties came and told him that he must clean his desk because muh fire hazard from soldering iron. I almost died laughing him trying to hold back and not saying anything. Needless to say he never cleaned his desk even though they even sent pictures to internal mailing list as a reminder of unacceptable workspace environment. This work safety shit is getting out of hand, now we have to store alcohol in special chemicals enclosure and have to take mandatory safety courses on safe handling of chemicals.https://youtu.be/9cpTZcXdCDY?t=1102
Hey there, the attached pic is the right side of a sequential LED tail light board in my 1972 Buick Skylark installed by the previous owner.The lights are grouped into three sections, and while the left and center are fine these ones on the right are all not lighting up (this is the passenger side, the driver's side lights all work fine). I have zero electronics experience but since these boards are like $150+ I'm wondering if any of you can see anything obvious that might be wrong here that perhaps could be fixed by a newb. Seeing as it's a whole group of lights out together I assume it's one little connection somewhere that broke due to heat or rough driving. I'll reply with a pic of how it looks when the lights are on.
>>2958325Another pic
>>2958325You see the shit that looks like water damage on the bottom? take the board out, remove that water damage with a small medium stiff synthetic brush and some IPA.Don't get water in your tail lights.
>>2958329>>2958325And if that housing is zinc or some other form of metal, add some insulation between the edge of the board and the housing.
>>2958329>>2958331Thanks for the suggestion, I grabbed an old toothbrush and some 91% IPA and went to town scrubbing the board. Now something new is happening- I can see an extremely faint glow in the LEDs on the right while cleaning them and it happens when I push on the board as well (in the car, didn't actually remove it yet to clean the back and sides). Not sure what to make of that, will wait a bit for it to fully dry to examine it more.
>>2958302>do you know what's wrong with it?Not a little bit, besides it not being an issue with battery itself (it's a small, battery-powered one, of Milwaukee brand). I plan to test around with multimeter(hardly have an idea how to use it, besides setting volts higher than the battery) to see where power reaches and then try to figure things out as I go and hope eventual replacement parts will be cheap and easy to get.
>>2958339Ok, the board is fully dry now and the LED glow is gone. My small brain tells me that when it was wet that was bridging some sort of break in the current, if only a tiny bit, allowing all the LEDs to faintly glow. I really don't know where to go from here unfortunately.
>>2958346Also, I just checked the LEDs on the good side and realized ALL of them are on, whereas in this pic >>2958326 you can see that there are two columns (#4 and #9) that also are not working. I'm trying to get chatgpt to help me narrow down what's going on but if any of you humans have ideas please let me know
>>2958349One or more LEDs died. Use a multimeter to probe them one by one until you find open diodes (no continuity). You can temporarily bridge bad LEDs to test.
>>2958352Thank you, I am watching videos right now on how to use a multimeter to test LEDs on a board. Will report back!
>>2958325the LEDs are wired in strings of three with the resistors on the bottom acting as ballast. that crust there might be conductive, in which case it's possible the resistors haven't been able to do their jobs, in which case those LEDs might be toast. one way to check is to take it out and use the diode test mode on a multimeter. you should get some faint light out of each LED. might be that only one LED in each string is broke. then you could potentially move some of them from the rightmost strings to replace the broken ones and you'll get an unbroken board of LEDs, if a bit shorteryou could order new LEDs as well of course. and maybe resistors>>2958342is it brushed or brushless? besides the obvious (look for brushes) a brushless motor will have at least three wires whereas a brushed one will just have two>>2958356bridge bad LEDs with a suitable resistor. else you might burn the remaining good ones
>>2958369>>2958352Just busted out the multimeter and did a test on the diode setting, this was the result. Anything I didn't circle lit up just fine. Any interpretations/thoughts on the next move? Thanks for the responses, this has been educational and fun.
>>2958371try bridging one of the glowing ones with a resistor. the existing ones seem to be 150 Ohm in parallel. try to measure what voltage the strings are driven at. or measure the voltage across one active LED. oh and measure resistance across the resistors just to double check. then we can calculate a suitable bypass resistor
>>2958374err one of the non-glowing ones
>>2958371I think the traces/contacts on the bottom edge of the board are either shorted or corroded and broken. Clean it again with white vinegar (let it sit for a few minutes), then isopropyl alcohol. Then test the traces for continuity between solder contacts, bodging any breaks with short pieces of wire.
>>2958371The three columns on the left were lit up in the pic you posted >>2958326.
>>2958371put some tape on the bottom for insulation once you're done fixing it, so it can't touch the metal
>>2958326found some documentation based on the markings: https://www.digi-tails.com/sites/default/files/instructions/DT1101170.pdfpoked around on their website. no schematics. but based on what's visible it seems like 16 channels that are individually controlled by that big IC
>>2958371also have those fuckers machined off the markings on the chips? dick moveP1 looks like it's had a rough lifethere being a transistor per pair of strings is a bit strange. maybe they're double transistors since they're 6 pins each?D1 is probably for reverse polarity protectionI don't see any protection against overvoltage as can happen on some cars if the battery connector is loose. there's also fuckall EMC related parts on it
Has anyone ever bought these yihua dual soldering/hot air stations? If so, which station do you own and what was the price of it when you bought it? I'm trying to figure out how much they've gone up in price since the tarrifs..
How many watts do you really need for a soldering station?
>>2958407I think it depends on what use ur gonna give it, I´ve seen 30W to 50W its common, but also seen up to 300W (just soldering iron). If temp is adjustable i think 50W is good for simple circuit boards.
>>2958390I wouldn't pay more than like $20 for that even with the hot air. That's a 900 series iron tip which would be like kinda okay in 1999. Everything new is probe /heater integration or magnetic shit and gets hot way faster than that. That thing you'd tell it to turn on and let it sit there for 5 minutes. New ones takes like 10nseconds to get up to 450c
Thank you all for the help with the LED tail lights (I'm getting a spam warning when I try to mass reply). I ended up scrubbing the board down with white vinegar for a few minutes, then some distilled water, then finished with another rubbing down with IPA. Still exactly the same functionality as before. Tomorrow I will continue the mission to get this sorted out.
I've found some green indicator LEDs have about 3.2V-3.3V forward voltage. Is it safe to drive them directly from 3V3 MCU pins or should I use npn transistors to drive them from some higher voltage rail?
>>2958458what's maximum drive current on the MCU pins and what is the maximum current the LEDs can take?>>2958452keep us updated
>>2958428>New ones takes like 10nseconds to get up to 450cShit I've been missing out. My iron is a hakko from like 2001 and I had no idea how much faster new irons heat up
>>2958407FYI watt rating for a temperature regulated (temp control, PTC, or curie-point) iron is effectively different from that of an unregulated iron. An unregulated 50W iron will dissipate that full 50W with no load into the air at its maximum temperature, say its 420C in a 20C room. That’s 8K/watt thermal resistance to ambient. So when you’re soldering with your tip down to 300C, you’re dissipating (300-20)/8 = 35W into ambient, and hence only getting 50-35 = 15W into the workpiece. The smaller surface area of a 50W regulated iron means it has a much higher thermal resistance, and so you’ll get much closer to that 50W when soldering. When set to a 350C set point I see a 5-10% idle duty-cycle on my T12, so you’re getting 90-95% of its heat into the workpiece in my case. Cartridge tips are better at that than tips like the 900 series.This has been an unsolicited PSA.>>2958428Compared to other chink stations, doesn’t it still use a mains frequency transformer and drives the heating element off LVAC? That topology is more reliable compared to the chinky irons/stations that run off an SMPS, but if the power supply is external it’s pretty trivial to replace it if it ever goes bad.>>2958467Yeah, T12 cartridges heat up in 8s, while the high-power T245s heat up in 2-3 seconds. I’m really eying up one of those Miniware TS1M irons that I could run off a 200W supply, for the XT60s and BMSs I solder on occasion.
>>295846520mAmps for both, but of course I would drive them at 5 mA with suitable series resistors. I'm just concerned about the (possible) lack of voltage headroom when driven from 3v3.
>>2958474if you drive them without resistors you might get thermal runaway. with resistors you probably need quite small values because of the low supply voltage as you say. maybe stick 100 or so ohms in there and see how it works (500 mV drop)
>>2958407depends on what youre soldering and it depends on what style of soldering iron/tip you have.https://youtu.be/29hdKjj5M-8?si=mVQ8APBxisbcM_CH&t=885i personally have a t12 style iron that does like 60 or 80 watts peak. if i'm soldering something that's a pain in the ass i break out the spade tips and crank up the heat to 400C.
Thoughts on on cheap touchscreen universal multimeters from Aliexpress? There has to be a catch, right?
>>2958467When you want your tip to heat up fast, just get small cube of rockwool and and put the soldering iron shaft in there.Old welding trick, but it works great.It prevents it from initially dissipating the heat into the air. Don’t leave it in there once it’s up to temperature though.My soldering iron has a low/high setting, i just switch it to high initially and then once up to temp, down to low.It’s not like there have been any real-world physics improvements in soldering irons except for marketing/auduiophoolerly level shit.If need be, you can solder with a nail and a lighter.
I found a thing at work. What should I do with it?
>>2958540Take a photo of it.If AI were real, you could send that photo to it and it could enumerate and itemize every component on it, generate a schematic (send it a pic of the other side and it would match it up) while any unidentified components would be deduced from their pinouts and placement in the schematic. Store the board, as-is for later with the lists on your computer.Now when you want to make a project, like a timer, controller, audio device, sensor, etc. just look through the database of components, desolder them from the appropriate board, and build it.I often take it one step further… sometimes you can extract a whole circuit from a pcb with a coping saw, and then solder some pins (or just glue it doown!) onto it and use it like a prefab carrier board on your own project. The best one I did was a whole audio transistor-based amplifier circuit from the very middle of a old TV mainboard.
>>2958540What did you pull it from? What plugs into it? What is the bus interface? If you have no use for it, document the ICs and sell any rares as-is.
>>2958549Try and sell the whole board first though.
Why did they so many parallel resistor in this linear LED driver?
>>2958549>>2958552They go for about $100 on ebay, but I don't know if it works.
>>2958540Try and read the firmware off the EPROMS>>2958582The four 15k resistors are each dissipating 0.3W, to get the desired current with 0.5W metal film resistors the designer used four 15ks in parallel, but one 2W 3.9k resistor, or four 910R 0.5W resistors in series, would also have probably worked.The same is likely the case for the other resistors.
How much am I going to suffer if I try to solder surface mount components (0603 and 0805) with an iron? My friend who is more experienced with this stuff keeps telling me surface mount is the only way to go. But decent hot air guns aren't cheap.Actually I suppose the main advantage of smt is you can use a hot air gun or hotplate and solder a whole bunch of components at once?
>>2958582Don’t know why they bothered to put that on the schematic, but that can be a tactical solution.
>>2958639Hot air is just hot air. I just use a hardware-store gun and it works fine. I re-flowed my ps3 bga chips that got tin whiskers with it.You can get ones with “temp” controls, or one with just high and low… you can keep it on low (under 800 W I think they’re rated for) and use a light dimmer.
>>2958591Interesting looking display. Send it to franlab.
>>2958639Definitely doable, but highly dependant on soldering iron tip shape. I use a D12 tip for that size of SMT, it’s a 1.2mm wide flathead screwdriver-like bit, allowing for decent surface contact with a part from a decent range of angles. A ~1.5mm blunt round-nosed conical tip might work, but those sharp conical tips are worthless since you need to make contact with the side of the iron to transfer any heat. Chisel/bevel and knife tips are fine too, if they’re small enough, and bent thin conicals (JL02) seem like they’re used effectively for small SMTs but I’m not fond of them myself.For reference, I’ve used that D12 tip on 0402s without too much difficulty, maybe even 0201s, but I can’t remember.Reflow-plate is definitely the way to go for removing human error, but it’s only usable on a board with parts on just one side.
>>2958657would you say a hot plate is easier for a beginner than a hot air gun? Cheaper too maybe
>>2958692It’s not an either/or thing.If you let your pcb sit on a hot plate for a bit, it makes soldering by air or by iron easier since it’s just that much closer to your solder melt temperature.Sometimes I heat up the pcb with the hot air gun (especially if it’s got beefy ground planes) and go at it with the iron. It makes it much easier.I’m not heating it up to solder melt temperature.You can get a hot plate from goodwill. It heats. You don’t need anything fancy.
I remember seeing a youtube vid about a recently very popular soldering iron from aliexpress, called "T12" or "T42" or T-something. It was a relatively weak iron meant for electronics only but had some sort of "auto-sensing" feature that made it heat up only when touching components, so it was a tip life-saver. Also it was powered by usb-c (still needed like 20w or 65w i dont remember well).Anyone knows an iron like that?
>>2958704Ok nevermind I just did some more googling, I believe the ones I'm thinking of are called "TS100" and "TS101" and others from a similar line. More expensive than I remember, but still reviews say they punch well above their weight. For those of you who have used them, are they solid choices or nah?
>>2958592Constant 1W dissipation. BJTs sure are inefficient
>>2958692You can buy decently sized mains PTC soldering hotplates that sorta self-regulate themselves for piss-cheap on alibay, I’d try one of them if you’re wondering. The reflow curve won’t be perfect, but it’s probably fine for most components, I’d be concerned about electrolytic caps. As for proper soldering reflow plates, there’s that precise temperature controlled thing from Miniware, but it is tiny, and all the larger ones are pricy. Otherwise people have definitely used a skillet with a layer of sand, or other cooking hotplates like electric frying pans, but they’re both quite thermally massive and not very precise, so you’ll need to keep an eye on the reflow process and kill the power when its done. And even then, it will likely stay hot for a lot longer than the recommended reflow profile for the components.>>2958696There’s a difference between preheaters and actual soldering plates. Preheaters are nice for boards with lots of copper, but if the aim is to not have to learn how to use hot air or microsoldering it doesn’t really help.>>2958705Pinecil V2 is a better buy if you’re in the USA, but I don’t know if it has that auto-sensing feature. As for tip life saving, they all have standby timers, I’ve been using some of my T12 tips for over 8 years and they’re holding up fine.Also consider the new TS1M.
>>2957310Probably not the right place to ask, but;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/4046517/Technics-Rs-Tr355.htmlMaybe one of you anons are smart enough to figure out what happened. I got this tape deck a while ago, it needed those plastic gears, so I bought them, and while I kinda fucked up the right side deck a little (turns out I had a spring installed wrong the whole time!), eventually, I got both decks put back together fully.But then the left motor stopped working. So I swap the motors, still nothing. I poke at the motor wires with the multimeter, and turns out, it's sending 14v to the right motor when I press play, but the left one gets nothing. The solenoid clicks to get the mechanism ready for the motor to begin the tape loading sequence, but... No 14v! I don't know what I did! The board seems fine, nothing seems blown, and I swapped the motors and they both work fine if they're on the right side, but not on the left.So at this point, it's beyond my skill level. I can do the little plastic gears and rubber belts, but when it comes to figuring out why those wires Aren't getting their 14v at both decks, I got nothing.And I'm sad, because this is a pretty nice deck. The VFD screen is nice and bright, it's got soft touch controls, auto-continual-play, all the nice stuff. And I can't fucking use it because what's the point of a twin cassette deck with only one working deck?Even worse, the left deck was FINE until I removed it from the player so I could simultaneously disassemble both decks at the same time, (this was how I discovered that I had a spring in the wrong place on the right side deck), so imagine my massive fucking disappointment when I get it all back together, finally, properly, and now I'm getting no power on the left side. Unbelievable.
>>2958692>would you say a hot plate is easiernahcoz half the boards you take on a date have components on both sidesmaking a hot plate only fully useful half the time, or half-useful all the time
>>2958729>figure out what happenedsee page 14 of manual; check if computer chip, M50746, has the right Hi/Lo signals on MOTOR 1 and MOTOR 2 pinsif so, trace signal path from those pins to the motor, which is probably being amplified by transistorsif that sentence sounds like gibberish to you, you could simply add a manual bypass switch to bring voltage to the motor when neededthat would turn it into a customized unit which would double its valueor half it, i dunno
>>2958729Each motor is driven by four transistors, e.g. Q918-921 on page numbers 24 through 26. I’d test those transistors by measuring them with your multimeter in diode mode with the device off, you’ll probably want to check a tutorial for that and be referencing the transistor datasheet as you do so. Q919 and its ilk are logic transistors with integrated resistors so you might get funny results on the Vbe measurement, but you should still measure a valid Vbc. It gives you sample voltages to test when the machine is on, I’d test all the points around the transistors and report back with an annotated copy of the schematic.If it’s a relay or solenoid that isn’t triggering properly, then Q916/917 or Q914/915 are suspect, reading the bus lines and labels it seems like that’s what the solenoids are switched by.What the fuck is going on over by Q5-14 on page number 24 though, all these transistors with series capacitors so they can’t actually sink any DC bias current.
>>2958705>>2958711>Pinecil V2More or less the same. I have the original pinecil, works pretty well. It has a motion sensor so it heats up when you pick it up, and goes back to a lower idle temperature when it's untouched for a period of time. AFAIK all these small soldering irons do it that way.They have a relatively low thermal mass so they can ramp up in a couple seconds.
