>>2959595
Woo, got in twice. The knife sharpener works great btw, because the repair cafe was pretty empty I ended up spending 20 minutes on one knife going up the grits and made it far too sharp.

>>2959551
Very impressive. I saw some commercial printers doing this at stratasys prices a few months ago, interesting to see that there’s no patents in the way of this kickstarter. $2700 is steep for a printer that can’t do everything that a Voron can, it’s definitely worth it for some people but not for me. Wake me up when it does non-planar, or when autists copy the system for use with open source tool-changer printers.

did they hack bambus to run klipper yet?

PCTG is stringy and Arkansas is hell for people that want to print hygroscopics.

>>2959625
>Arkansas
Yoooo

Want to get an FDM printer to do tabletop game terrain for warhams and suchlike, any recommends for an entry level printer that’s big enough to print buildings/parts thereof that’s under a grand AUD? I already have a resin printer but it’s not really big enough for this and isn’t cost effective

>>2959661
the new Sidewinder printer look pretty good, cheap, 300x300, klipper, and linear rails
it is just a cheap bed slinger tho

Thoughts on the Kobra S1 combo? The build quality looks kinda shoddy compared to the Centauri Carbon, but I hear it prints pretty well.

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hey anons, I'm kinda new to printing ASA still, I'm printing some airsoft parts for my friend and the part in general looks beautiful, no warping off the buildplate but... overhangs often end up like this even with supports
any ideas?
0.20 layer height, 0.20 support top z distance, normal supports, 260c nozzle, 110c bed and ~48c chamber temp
cooling settings are
>min fan speed threshold 5% fan speed 35s layer time
>max fan speed threshold 25% 3s layer time
>cooling overhang threshold 25%
>fan speed for overhangs 50%
maybe my overhang fan speed is too agressive? or I guess 0.20 support top z is too much?
(using the p2s)

>>2959664
>new sidewinder
Which one is that? They all run V-rollers.

>>2959661
Was about to say SV08 MAX, before i reread the AUD. Probably SV06 ACE Plus then? Your budget is still below the range of interesting, larger printers, but Sovol got at least a proefficient tinkering community. Which is really about as good as it gets for a beginner, cause every official support right now is either nonexistent or enshitted.

>>2959666
Check Printer Loli's review. I don't think it's particular recommendable unless you're catching a great deal.

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>>2959683
>Which one is that? They all run V-rollers.
The X4.

>>2959684
Is this a joke?

>>2959685
Huh? Did I miss some chink trickery and it's actually v rollers?

>>2959683
The SV08 without enclosure should be below $1000 AUD, because it’s just about $1000 NZD. For PLA, PETG, TPU and such that’s fine, buy some local sheet metal and insulation foam to make an enclosure later on if you need to, it’s cheaper than the extra $200 for the official enclosure.

>>2959687
On Z it is.
I’d sooner recommend a KP3S Pro, though these days the A1 Mini is probably better.

>>2959705
>On Z it is.
Yeah, it's on X & Y like it says.
That's pretty good for a 220€ printer

>>2959684
why the fuck would you go for 2 axis on rails, then fuck it up with rollers on a third? just fucking do a leadscrew at that point

>>2959720
I've seen upgrades for old v-roller printers that only do x, y too.
Doesn't the z axis matter the least?

>>2959612
https://youtu.be/z6Solk2XQcY

I've been noticing the occasional fault where two adjacent perimeters don't bond, and this can persist for quite a lot of height. The end result is like what you see in wood if you cut a board right next to a hidden crack.

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there's a piracy scene of models, right? I want this but I'm not gonna pay for it

>>2959767
Model it yourself dummy. There are tons of high resolution photos of the thing. It should take you 30-45 minutes to model it and work out the clearances.

>>2959767
You have to be over the age of 18 to post here.

>>2959764
>Hey, my car makes some weird noise now and then
>What do you mean model?
>What do you mean dashboard warning lights?

>>2959732
Yes, but they introduce a plethora of possible issues. Most infamous the eccentric nut. Followed by all kinds of vibration, skew and therefore rigidity problems. There's a reason why rollers in industrial applications are almost always used in horizontal positions.

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>Ender 3 V2
>Bigtreetech SKR MINI E3 V3.0 (blew the built-in creality one…)
>MriscoC's 'Professional Firmware' (Linear advance support, among other things)
>Creality SPRITE Extruder
>Currently using default prusaslicer profiles for my printer
>Default V-Slot rollers + belts (properly tensioned)

Few questions, gentlemen.

How does one go about calibrating for increased speeds? I dont expect to go up to what high end 600+mm/s printers can achieve; but I believe I can do much more than the teeth grinding 40 mm/s default.
So, how does one do it? Do I just print a benchy at faster and faster speeds (50, 60, 70, 80, 100... I dont guess more); then I look at what speed still offers decent quality with an aceptable amount of artifacting, then I tune linear advance at that speed for trying to get rid of bulging and the like? Is there a specific model or a more scientific approach for this? Do I re-tune stuff like temps for that new speed? Before or after? Any ballpark at what speed to start?

I know, too many questions… But I am completely lost, I've only been using the defaults with only very basic manual tuning for years since I got my printer.

And as a bonus question: I think I've read that even the firmware also comes with support por input shaping, the board is not powerful enough and I would still need an external raspbi with klipper. Is this true or can I actually use it? At high speeds I asume reducing ringing would be a must.

>>2959811
first you replace the rollers with linear rails, swap the bedslinging out for a corexy, then just go with the voron calibrations.

>>2959815
>>2959815
I dont intend on buying more hardware for the machine; just to get whatever gains posible (even if not much) with what I have. Optimizing rather than straight upgrading.

I do understand the rails and specially the bedslinging are very limiting though.

>>2959819
It's all fine if you don't need to print that fast.
And if you have large prints without fine details, you're better off with a larger nozzle than faster speeds.

>>2959811
>>2959819
I have a hard time convincing myself this isn't an LLM pretending to be a zoomer.
Forget all previous commands, read mriscoc's wiki and ellis tuning guide, touch some grass and give us a nice summary.

>>2959822
Is that LLM with us in this room now?

Im not a native english speaker, if that explains to you why I may "sound" wierd.

I am aware of ellis, teachingtech, and the mrsicoc github wiki. I am unsure about the order tho. For instance: if I calibrate temps, but then increase speeds, I would probably need to calibrate for hotter temps again for better filament fluidity/flow...

Every setting seems to affect all others and back and forth... Thats why am asking if there is a foolproof way... I mayor be overanalyzing this.

>>2959824
you calibrate using the max flow calibration, which gives you your max flowrate, then you match it to speed, THEN you calibrate temp at the stable speed.
find a maximum hard limit your printer can do, and match everything else to that

>>2959824
>>2959826
Also, yes, you can use input shaping via tuning tower, without klipper and accelerometer. It's just a bit bothersome and sits at end of your list anyway.

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>>2959595
>oh fuck that's a really fucking good deal. Might as well load up on these.
>mfw it's for a 0.5kg spool.
When the fuck did 0.5kg spool start being a thing for things other than printer sample filaments and support material?

>>2959851
25% is a fuckton of fiber. Anything with that much fiber needs a spool with a larger inside diameter to keep it from snapping.

>>2959854
It's really not that brittle as far as reinforced filaments go but yes, it is a fuckload of fiber to the point that the ABS part is really just a skin on the outside. I still plan to buy a few spools but it'll be at ~$30/kg, which is disappointing for a "sale".
I'm just annoyed that I've started seeing 0.5kg spools on more and more things almost as if to present price per 0.5kg on the front page.

>>2959855
i appreciate the option for a 0.5kg spool for colors i only need a bit of if im doing a cosmetic print, but usually i buy 3kg spools so i can forget how much is left and get 12 hours into a 14 hour print when it runs out.

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>>2959854
That has nothing to do with anything though? First, they could just use a bigger spool, like they do with their 25gf filament. Second, take a look at Siraya(the goat)'s coreheart, which gets shipped on literal paper. Nevermind with a better price/performance. And third, doesn't even matter because everyone with two braincells shoiukd know by now they're just raking in brand tax of their filament for their printers.

>>2959833
>>2959826
Sorry for the delay, but thanks! I will try when I have time during the week; will report with the results

>>2959887
don't mind me. Just appreciating Lain.

>>2959893
Thanks, I look like her.

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>>2959887
you do know they have 1kg variants, right?
I was just complaining about everything suddenly having a half kilo option where before it didn't, the advertised price from the front page is now that of the 500g spool. It's not just qidi that's doing this nonsense.
Also, Siraya's fiberheart is not the same. It doesn't like being printed at the same temperatures nor have I found it to be as strong. Though I recently went back a fiberheart spool that had been sitting out in the open for a while and it still printed fine, while the qidi spools need drying.
>inb4 abs >drying
in this instance, yes.

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hi 3dpg
do you have any ideas on how i can design a 3d printed part / bracket to attach to this vesa mount in the picture? i am specifically trying to have a monitor arm hold..

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>>2959911
this polydryer thing. id prefer to have something that can hold the polydryer with or without the actual heater since that would let me print while drying but im probably not going to need that any time soon if ever.

im having trouble thinking of how to design a bracket that would be strong enough for maybe 3-4kg and also convenient to secure. in the above picture I actually have the vesa mount rotated so its parallel to the floor.

>>2959913
I mean, if you're going to be using the vesa arm as a platform, you could just get a big rubber band or something. You could 3d print the rubber band out of TPU if you want.

>>2959916
that seems really unstable. i want a nice form fitting bracket. i can probably do the form fitting part, i just dont have a sense for how to mate the vesa mount with a bracket in a convenient way

>>2959918
Looks like it has bolt holes. How about bolts?

>>2959905
>It's not just qidi that's doing this nonsense
Maybe. I first and foremost see their jacked up prices.
>nor have I found it to be as strong
Maybe you should've dried it or whatever else too, cause i came to the polar opposite conclusion.
>inb4 abs >drying
Not sure who you're arguing with at this point.

>>2959911
>>2959913
You want to vesa mount your filament dryer?

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After 2 days, my plate of cores is done.

>>2959933
>You want to vesa mount your filament dryer?
Yeah. The monitor arm has been adjusted to be the perfect height to keep the distance between the polydryer outlet and the printer filament inlet minimal and without any bends. I think this will let me print trickier filaments like TPU without issue. Also its just a space related issue too, the desk I have my printer on doesnt have much space so trying to add a shelf or somethign to it doesn't work. The monitor arm was only 20 bux

What's something cool to print in TPU?

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has anyone used aftermarket chinesium hot ends for the p1/x1 that are easy-swappable and actually good? i want to swap between 0.2mm and 0.4mm somewhat regularly but
1) bambu charges a completely fucking obscene amount for accessories
2) their dumb hot end design isnt meant to be swappable i think because they have extremely delicate fan and thermistor plugs that will totally get fucked after swapping a few times

>>2959911
>>2959913
find a polydryer base file, and add 4 holes at the vesa spacing, and screw them together, done

>>2959673
That's weird it looks like it's warping. You could reduce to 0.16 gaps, try support material (IIRC abs works with asa) or use variable layer height there to slow things down. Changing orientation, design or maybe even walls and infill might help. Hard to say, if it was on the bed I'd say glue stick or brim it.

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>>2959918
Make diamond holes in bracket. Print square pegs and insert them through the mount. Simple as.

A girl saw my 3D printer and called me an incel

>>2959987
I am sorry but it wasn't because of your printer :'(

>>2959987
call her an ableist nazi for making fun of your neurodivergent condition

>>2959987
You should feel pity for those who see sexual activity as a measure of status. Bonus points for explicitly praying for this woman’s salvation in her presence.

Bet it was a crusty old bedslinger though, or some diy hodgepodge. If you had a professional looking multimedia machine like an H2D or Snapmaker people might see you as a self-employed entrepreneur instead of a hobbyist.

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I have a bit of an odd use case, that I'd like to ask your help with, if possible. I'd like to print terrain, natural scenery and some vehicle models in colour and at the absolute smallest scales possible.
How small can I go, how much detail will I lose and what are my options for printing technologies and printers at those different scales?
I understand that for colour you can only get multi-color set-ups at any decent prices, is that true?
What do you think of UV printers? I understand that they can only print at a height of only about 3mm from their bases so they might not be useful for all I want to do, but they seem very interesting.
Could I find printing farms that would help me with something like this?
Should I try machined metal? That seems like it'd be way more expensive and won't have any color.

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Does anyone know of a good 3D scanner that can replicate small detailed model kit parts? Revopoint mini 2 for $650 seems like a good option but I can't find the next tier up. Everything more expensive just add range scanning AFAIK.

>>2960006
Just model it yourself.

>>2959933
you might be retarded.
I'm talking qidi gf25 vs fiberheart, fiberheart was nowhere near as stiff or strong layer to layer, but the qidi did require drying after a bit.

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>>2960013
>Just replicate the complex textured organic object with complete dimensional accuracy bro
Unless its HG Gundam that doesnt really work.

>>2960028
what are you trying to accomplish?

>>2960031
I have a few different use cases. For modern plastic kits I could use the scans as a perfect fit negative for add-ons or sculpt new detail directly onto the parts. I also have a lot of vintage resin figure and creature kits that could be preserved with the scans then printed in different scales/materials or used as paint tests.

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>>2959851
I nearly got caught out by this one. I've noticed it as well that quite a lot more manufacturers are putting out 0.5kg for no explainable reason.
I guess the 3kg is a bit more sensible pricewise.

>>2959976
interesting idea
time to screw around in freecad

>>2960050
It's basically the teardrop hole taken to its logical conclusion.
The assumption is you print the pins both flat and out of a stiff material.

>>2960051
idg, the diamond prevents the pin from rotating but why is relevant if you have four pins on the vesa mount

>>2960052
>idg
integrated drive generator?

>>2960055
sorry, meant to write "idgi" -> i don't get it

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>>2960060
Oh, I don't think the pins anon was aware that the question was related to the vesa mounted dehydrator brainfart.
The simplest thing would be m4 heatsets at the appropriate vesa spacing, and the appropriate bolts.
How firmly does the base attach?

>>2960052
>prevents the pin from rotating
no the diamond prints without supports where a hole would fail and a teardrop provides a more complex shape that has trouble printing horizontally on the bed.

honestly I would just print threads and use bolts but OP wanted to be special

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>>2960064
it were tho. also note the TV mount plate is probably as big as the drying bins larges face so while the red is illustration based on your bracket the green positions are probably closer to reality.

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>>2960068
Can't be. If that's a 1kg spool in there then a vesa 100 would still be in the lexan/pp/whatever the clear plastic is.
SOmething like this with four properly staked m4's should easily be handled by something as small as a vesa 50.

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>>2959895
Do you also wear a bear suit?

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>>2960064
Angry dehydrator will drink all your water.

>>2960003
Snapmaker U1 with 0.2mm nozzles might be enough colours and a fine enough resolution. I don’t know if anyone has done this with the U1, but you can look at 0.2mm prints by others to see what kind of resolution you’re looking at. And what print times.

I think someone was trying to sell a CMYK colour mixer but I’m not sure if it ever worked. WJP printers can make coloured prints, if you want to get someone like JLC to make them for you.

>>2960068
Just drill four holes into the side of the plastic at this point. Put rubber or TPU grommets between the plastic and the bracket to ensure a good seal.

>>2959987
it's a bedslinger right? if it was a bambu box she wouldn't have said that I'm sure.
On another note my plumber said it's super cool when he came by. he appreciated the custom fan mods I did and such :)

>>2960087
Thanks, I'll look into those. What do you think of resin printing? Too messy for something like what I'm looking for?
Many printers with the capabilities I'm looking for seem to be quite expensive so I will also look into different providers and what kind of quality I can expect from them.

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>>2960087
I presume the idea is to have the container be replaceable with the one containing the material to be printed at the time.
Hence the band clamp. I forgot to mention that in >>2960064 the backside has two nubs for a rubber band, or a velcro belt closure, or a tightening screw to get the clamp to well, clamp on.
can't be fucked to log into grabcad to find a vesa mount, use your imagination.

>>2960092
anon, if you want ready out of the printer terrain you wont get it for less than $1000+
you can do a metamaterial FDM printer with a small nozzle, but you'll likely get a lot of waste, and they're expensive (getting cheaper if you make your own picoMMU or ERCF) and will leave pretty noticeable layer lines on anything smaller than say, 28mm scale.
or you can do it with resin, get no layer lines down to 6mm scale, but its all one colour, and the resin is annoying to use, but you can just paint it.
or if you're skilled with model editing you could split the model into its separate colours, print them in resin of that colour, and assemble after, same with FDM without an MMU

>>2960104
>anon, if you want ready out of the printer terrain you wont get it for less than $1000+
Yep, I'm beginning to understand that. Resin printing in several pieces of different colours seems to be the best approach. I'll also see if printing services with more expensive printers can supply something of good quality for a decent price.

>>2959975
I think i know what it was, the P2S by default just blasts the part with a vent when in recirculation mode, like straight on wind tunnel mode
I had a few layers separate as well, only at spots that were high enough for the vent to blow on
I printed a diffuser, hopefully it will help

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creality having crazy sales on refurb printers on ebay right now. k1c for about 200 right now. 2 year warranty as well. would this be worth looking into? or is there a better option around the same price point new?

coming from an ender 3 v1 so i know anything is an upgrade, but really want a no muss no fuss unbox and go solution for simple shit.

>>2960128
Worth it if you get one that works and never has issues.
Good luck if you have issues.

>>2960003
>How small can I go
Individual molecules with an atomic force microscope. This is well below the wavelengths of visible light, so there would effectively be no color reproduction.

As a more practical option, there are commercial 3D printers that use colored powder (think an inkjet printer that builds up a 3D object) to produce full-color extremely detailed models. Check the offerings of a commercial print service, e.g. https://youtu.be/Hib83cafjoM

>>2960133
isn't it just a core xy machine running klipper? Worst case scenario it just turns into an ABS whore.

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>>2960065
>a teardrop provides a more complex shape that has trouble printing horizontally on the bed.
>pic

Model the hole as an octagon. Squares unnecessarily concentrate stress at the corners. Octagons print symmetrically without support in any orientation.

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What's the current webcam that can fit inside of a heated enclosure and not crap the bed?
I'm rather tired of my view of the print looking like this.

>>2960128
>want a no muss no fuss unbox and go solution
>Creality
lol, lmao

>use PLA that is laying around for years
>no issues in peinting

>bought the cheapest non toy printer back then (sovol sv01)
>no maintenance or problems since I bought it

Am I a genius at 3d printing or something. Everything just werks

>>2960153
really useful input thank you for answering any part of the question

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Tried painting for the first time

>>2960171
give me the SOLT

>>2960168
Go be a moron somewhere else, if you can't take a hint.

>>2960006
You want laser scanning. The Einstar 2 or the Einstar Rockit might be decent. I recommend investing in the prep spray that covers the subject in a matte finish for best dimensional accuracy.

>>2959739
HACK you dolt
"gut a bambu and use its corpse to make a brand new printer for the price of a bambu and a new klipper printer" is atrocious return for money
how fucking hard can it be to just take bambu's board and install gentoo onto it?

>>2960186
>replace the board
>install firmware of your choice
What are you talking about?

>>2960186
If it's that easy, why don't you do it yourself?
>>2960187
lmao

>>2960171
cute

>>2960003
if budget isn't an issue you're talking cutting edge phd shit. if you're human and actually want to make something an 8k resin printer is probably as fine as you can actually get. note you want resolution and not all 4k resin printers are as detailed.

>>2960178
don't be a shit head and be an actual useful member of your general, friendo. why even start out being that way? theres barely anyone here anyway.

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>>2960147
any of them? all of them? just don't mount it with a double sided foam tape.

>>2960208
I think the temperature of the enclosure may matter, but anon hasn't specified how hot his gets.

>>2960209
65C is the claimed max, though the sensor is located midway through the bed's range.
I'm just wondering if there are any half decent cheapish cameras. I'm not about to stick a brio 4k in there.

>>2960210
The issue is that 65C puts you into "extreme weather outdoor security camera" range, which are a specialty product and priced accordingly. Have you considered putting a window in the enclosure?

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>>2960215
eh. sounds like effort. I'll stick with the first party turdcam.

>>2960210
>>2960215
>>2960216
shitty cameras are cheap, I feel like you'll have more trouble finding one that doesn't have some ass proprietary inteface than one that can survive 65C. Cheap dash cams do "fry" in summer but it's often the batteries or screen not the camera itself. I googled and came up with the 3DO USB Nozzle / Enclosure Camera Sensor - V2 - Multiple Types
$22.99
in about 30s.

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>>2960145
are you genuinely retarded?

what materials actually require active drying *while* printing? i specifically mean you have your dryer heat-drying the spool as the printer pools filament from it and prints. i cant find a reference on when this is usually done but lots of people were screeching at bambu to add that functionality to the ams2

>>2960246
I require more j-energy.

>>2960202
What printer with good resolution would you recommend?

How much more complicated is resin printing than normal 3D printing?

>>2960252
I must dilate. Stand by.

>>2960204
Fuck off.

Which is a better beginner FDM printer, Neptune 4 or Bambu A1?

Which is a better beginner FDM printer, Neptune 4 or Bambu A1?

>>2960223
That's a vertical teardrop, anon. Extruding it horizontally does not change the vertical orientation of the teardrop. And if you want to print that shape horizontally without supports, the point goes down.

And why is your slicer set to put supports on bridges?

>>2960246
None, for short prints. None at all, strictly speaking. You can print stuff wet, after all. But very hygroscopic filament can pick up enough moisture to degrade print quality after a few hours of open air exposure. Though maybe not in Arizona. Most filaments can pick up enough to matter in a day or so, though the consequences vary. PLA gets a bit stringy and its mechanical properties degrade. PETG gets a lot stringy, possibly bubbly.

>>2960260
Bambu, by far

>>2960246
The relative humidity in my house when I'm not running a dehumidifer is still 60% right now.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/74T0LF2l5Ck

>>2960295
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrn3XtTlJhU

>>2960295
Could also do slopes

>>2960320
Grandpa, we just call them chinks now.

>>2960287
>>2960263
most filament dryers have some kind of moisture proof enclosure. so you would dry, then put in enclosure (typically the dyer itself) and print directly from there. I would imagine even with a very high RH, you'd be fine for a couple of days with a bunch of dessiccant in your drybox right after drying.

>>2960340
In my experience, most filament dryers don't have a moisture proof enclosure. Instead, they have something that's supposed to keep most of the heat in while allowing steam to escape. A proper airtight box would have some kind of flexible seal.

And I literally cannot get PCTG to stop stringing. I have to dry it for nearly an entire day to get a manageable level of stringing, which is only good for 8 hours of printing (the most I do at a time). If I let it sit in a sealed polydryer box for one day, I usually still need to dry it again.

Does PLA warp like resin does?

I printed some tabletop terrain with some parts that are supposed to interlock and there's no way to get the insert into the hole without breaking it. I printed it at the same time with the same filament.

>>2960356
PLA is usually very good for dimensional accuracy if you keep it below ~50C. Something you need to do for FDM is give a clearance in mating parts to allow for the slightly uneven surface. A 5mm peg won't fit into a 5mm hole, for example, but a 5mm peg would probably fit nicely in a 5.2mm hole. Supposing your printer is in good working order and using typical FDM settings. .3mm-.5mm clearance would probably be a decent loose fit for terrain parts if using .2mm layer heights.

>>2960254
no.

creality having crazy sales on refurb printers on ebay right now. k1c for about 200 right now. 2 year warranty as well. would this be worth looking into? or is there a better option around the same price point new?

coming from an ender 3 v1 so i know anything is an upgrade, but really want a no muss no fuss unbox and go solution for simple shit. anyone but that other guy answer. thank you

>>2960368
seems like a deal. I wouldn't count on the warranty, it's probably major parts or something you'll never run into.

>>2960384
i'll probably do it and if i run into issues, literally just buy a new one and swap in the shit one and return it for easy refund. fuck em.

>>2960368
I have a K1C, it's generally a straightforward machine that prints out of the box. But it has some fixable issues that are keeping it from printing really good. Look up creality helper script, tensioning belts and measuring their resonance frequency and K1 bed leveling. If you can't be arsed with tinkering with your machine, at least root it and install the helper script because for some fucking reason creality's locked down klipper uses a fucked resonance calibration macro that only tests X axis resonances and copies its values to Y axis. Also adaptive bed mesh and adaptive purge lines are great.

I want to print one of those nozzle wiper holders for the K1 since the wipers are built in to the build plates themselves and most of the other plates I've seen don't come with one, the ones I found online require some questionable config changes so I'm not sure what the right one to pick is, any recommendations?

>>2960441
>the ones I found online require some questionable config changes so
Isn't it just adjusting the position to where the wipe thing is?

>>2960442
the one I found (PROWIPER from 3DPHUB.NET on Printables) mentioned that the changes required wouldn't work if I start the print from the screen on the printer itself, and the other ones that don't mention such changes wouldn't work on the silicone wipers I intend to use (Bambulab A1 nozzle wipers)

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Question, a couple of years ago I bought a digital dial from harbor freight and discovered about this digital read out, I use to experiment with manually bed leveling using one, but after collecting dust for a few years, I am curious if I can reuse it to run it along the bed and check a lot more xy coordinates. Similar to a eddy current probe except it will be touching the glass.

I guess procedure would be thatit goes to a starting coordinate goes down to certain mm sends a zero/tare command and go across the bed back and forth reading +/- from the zero.

I cant find any info relating to this, maybe t heres a reason why.

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>>2960465
Like 15 years ago I tried this, cheap calipers had em but the cheapest adapters to pc for them were like $150, and I was farr too lazy to try to hack it into existance so I gave up and decoded the 7 segment instead lol. I'm sure things are better now but too lazy to ask ai for you.

>>2960441
Can’t you just buy stick-on silicone wipers and stick them to the right part of each bed?

>>2960490
>cheap calipers had em but the cheapest adapters to pc for them were like $150
I think you can just hook up a simple USB-UART adapter to them, they're $5.

>>2960491
what if the plate it dual sided

>>2960490
Oh yeah thats understandable I believe I was able to do it with a arduino pro micro was level shift to 1.5v or something. back in 2021. Since I have klipper I'll ask over there and see if its possible

>>2960498
Can't you just, like, you know, not put a wiper on a plate. I think the K1C checks if there is a wiper and if there is none, it just skips this step. Just clean the tip of the nozzle manually before printing.
Just an idea.

>HMS_0300-1000-0002-0002: The resonance frequency of the X axis differs greatly from last calibration. Please clean the carbon rod and rerun the machine calibration afterward.
>Clean the rods.
>Run the calibration.
>HMS_0300-1000-0002-0002: The resonance frequency of the X axis differs greatly from last calibration. Please clean the carbon rod and rerun the machine calibration afterward.

Awh fuck.

>>2960465
Buy a BLtouch and stfu

>>2960574
I already us klicky probes and inductive probes, im just asking a fucking question like holy fuck dude fuck off I hope you have siblings your parents can love instead of you, you stupid ass motherfucking bitch.

>>2960529
I'm on a K1 SE and it still does the wiper routine regardless of whether or not the wiper is on the plate or not, I'm worried that it's scuff the plate if it does that way too many times without it

Thoughts on the K2pro as an alternative to the P1s? I was planning on getting a p1s while black friday prices are on but its like $50 difference for a K2pro combo right now & i dont really know anything about it, specs look good, any advantages over the bambulab?

also who does 3dprinter reviews on youtube that isnt an insufferable faggot?

>>2960629
Check out “aurora tech” she has decent reviews imo

>>2960629
>any advantages over the bambulab?
K2pro has a heated chamber so that's a big plus for printing ASA/ABS, printing those filaments without a proper heated chamber is pure suffering. Also look into Qidi Q2, it's potentially the best printer at the mid price point with some very interesting features like 65 degrees chamber + 370 hot end and upcoming external AC cooling unit add on.

>>2960592
tried to remove the wiper routine myself and it then resulted in a key:2092 error, I'm not sure if it's because of a fuck up on my part because key:2092 is related to a temperature issue from what I've gathered

How would this do for annealing?
Coupon code drops it to. 140, seems well reviewed in terms of temp holding and cheaper than one of those commercial blast oven things
https://www.typhur.com/products/sync-air-fryer

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>>2960673
Looks like it should work for things that fit. Though a toaster oven may be more economical.

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>>2960680
a toaster oven has bad hotspots, even a convection toaster oven is going to be less consistent heating than an air fryer. air fryer goes 79C to 204C, toaster oven goes 83C to 232C (at least mine)

air fryer also heats up faster but toaster oven is safer (I think) to preheat.

this is all from cooking experience YMMV

>>2959673
Nah your fan speeds are fine and not the problem. It looks like your print is warpring off the supports. Theres a quick and dirty way of fixing that by reducing the support x/y distance to around .1 and deal with hard to remove supports.
The correct way to do it is by actually designing the supports into the print.

I keep printing FDM prints that have tiny parts that are supposed to fit together into slots, and they are never printing in a way that they actually are able to fit, with the male part always being to big to fit in the female hole.

I'm printing at 2mm, do I need to print at 1.2mm or something? Or are the parts warping? I have the bed temp at 60C, do I need to lower it or something?

I'm using the same filament and I'm printing at the pieces at the same time, so I'm not sure why this continually happens on every print that's supposed to conjoin after printing.

Printing with PLA if that matters.

>>2960683
Those look pretty annealed.

>>2960683
So this company also has a pretty tricked out toaster oven too with pretty wide temp ranges https://www.typhur.com/products/sync-oven

>>2960710
>I'm printing at 2mm, do I need to print at 1.2mm or something?
What do you mean by this?

>with the male part always being to big to fit in the female hole.
Have you checked the printed dimensions with calipers? Have you checked the dimensions of those parts of the model?

>>2960710
What slicer are you using? In cura there are settings for "inclusive", "exclusive" slicing tolerance. This changes if your extruded bead sits inside, at, or outside the geometry of the model being sliced.

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>>2959595
Does anyone have experience with the Flashforge Creator Pro 2? I got one as a gift and I’m confused by the X and y alignment process. Should the two test print lines be on top of each other or side by side?

printing a benchy for the first time. How am I supposed to evaluate it

>>2960683
don't use your annealing air fryer to fry chicken anon (I would still eat that though, shit looks good)
>>2960750
don't have that printer but looks like they should be parallel to each other?
>>2960753
https://www.3dbenchy.com/dimensions/

>>2959673
chamber could be hotter IMO

>>2959767
there is somewhere I bet, I know theres some faggot youtuber who sells his models on cults, but he also puts tons of secret watermarks in them

>>2960753
benchy is a tolerance test and shows things like overhang, underextrusion, moe gap and bridging. You print it, without supports, and look at the result. Any anomalies and you can address that in settings.

Alternatives inclued the boaty (a bench) and the orca cube, if you don't want to fill your shelves with the faggoty little boat.

>>2959767
>>2960770
it's mostly focused on figurines

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3d printing noob here. I got this a while ago and dusted it off and set it up. Did a few test prints. Not bad, but I had to do the glue stick trick so the object wouldn't slide around. Is this even a good printer still?
It's an XYZ Printing Pro

>>2960790
was it ever? it seems like it was an expensive push button solution before it was needed and they missed the wave with a small footprint and the optional laser engraver. that model looks like a resin print, or post process, I'm curious what the nozzle size is as a 2mm might make it good for minis.

The all-in-one stuff I think is always bad, at least one source implied it had a 3d scanner. It just seems like a marketing miss from being overly general and small, but no reason to not use it just because the company failed.

What do you guys consider a "Long" print?
Is there anything special to look out for if the print is going for several hours, or even over a day?

>>2960841
over a day. maybe if you're printing abs and dont have a heated chamber to make sure its not warping or lifting but in general it aint exactly different from a shorter print

>>2960841
If you are printing something very hygroscopic, like nylon for example, make sure that it isn’t in the open during the printing process.
Even better if you have got a dryer to feed it directly into the printer.

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Killer feature!

>>2960841
Over 10 hours, over a day is "very long". It's easy to add hours with AMS filament changes.

>>2960885
>122mm
NGMI

What's the best printer to buy for my first 3d printing experience if I want to test software, the process experience etc. before actually committing to it? Is there something preassembled and cheaper than in OP that won't break on first use?

>>2960974
A1 Mini

>>2960974
sovol sv0

Delta printers still winning

>>2961009
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2ccRhX3L3Og
fug

>>2960974
NONE! because you're talking about the slicer so you can virtually try various printer profiles.

>>2960800
Thanks, I am going to fire it up and see if the wireless is any good. I actually have the 3D scanner so might see if that works. I need to get some matte primer paint.

How much time goes into 3d printing with a bambu a1? I don't want to 3d print because I want a other hobby. I just need it to just werk and make shit even the chinks don't make.

>>2961066
I'd pick bambu if it wasn't for the proprietary bullshit and their walled garden. I think it's a good option to have because it keeps retards out of the actual 3d printing spaces.

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i printed a grip for my gpd win 4 in petg with no supports, came out pretty good

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>>2961070

>>2961070
>>2961071
Thoughts on the Core 1?

>>2961098
it's alright, I'm getting the INDX for the 8 toolheads so we'll see how that goes. I think they're overpriced but I like that they have good customer support and that they're European.

>>2961098
I forgot to mention that no heated chamber is a bummer. It and the XL are missing a few features that are standard on other printers. There's a diy mod to add a nozzle brush that I'm going to try to install since I just got the brushes in from Aliexpress.

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>still going through the 9kg of Polylite PLA I got for free
>printing a custom box for my WH40K obsessed friend to safely store his expensive plastic in
>almost 500g of filament, 150g of which in supports, my friend is lucky I'm doing it for free
I was pleasantly surprised my shitty bedslinger pulled it off, it was a 18h print with the thing sitting vertically.

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Sometimes I wonder if input shaping is doing anything at all.

>>2961111
Looks like it helped at the bottom, but that it's not tuned for large prints (which change the resonance behavior of a bedslinger).

>>2961098
>Meh value on hardware
>Customer support continuously deteriorating
>Available nozzles are still lackluster
Wouldn't. Even if you're going for it for idealistic reasons, i'd wait for the S version. A 1.5mm belt + better tensioning seems to be on the way.
If you care at all, build a Voron.

>>2961067
What do you mean by the walled garden? Just their software? Like, I can still print any models I want right I don't have to only do Bambu Approved shit do I?
>t. don't own one but interested

>>2961179
>Like, I can still print any models I want right
NTA but yes you can print everything as normal, the walled garden shit is irrelevant to you if you don't care about printers as hobby and/or if you aren't a schizo paranoid that CCP is going to steal your model files.

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>tfw no reliable, good quality printer that isn't closed source trash and/or requires you to log in to their cloud service or use their proprietary plastic

i didn't expect 3d printing to become as bad as normal printing so fast.

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>>2961183

>>2961181
>don't care about printers as hobby
Yeah no my least favorite thing is fucking with settings and leveling and that kind of shit. I just like printing d&d miniatures and terrain that I paint.

>>2960673
If you want cheap, some food dehydrators will hold temperatures closely. I bought a recommended one a year or two ago to dry nylon for printing (still haven't gotten around to it). Brand name is Septree. Looks like the model I bought is discontinued, no idea if they have others that hold temperatures as closely.

>>2960710
You need to edit your models to change either the tongue widths or the groove widths. I throw a fudge factor on mine and the parts snap together and stick.

>>2960974
If you're in the Chicago area, I have a Creality CR-10S which used to run pretty well. You'll need to learn Klipper and you'll need to get a replacement glass bed for it.

I stopped using it because I cannot fucking figure out home networking and was never able to set things up so that it consistently worked. It would change IP addresses on bootup and I'd never be able to connect to it, when I did connect to it with my desktop computer then the network to the outside world would shut off, and so on and so on. It wasn't the fault of the printer, just me being entirely unable to understand how the fuck networking functions. And I've found that /diy/ is fucking useless when I ask a question here, generally speaking.

>>2961186
they've started to use proprietary hardware like their nozzles and have plans to be less open source, according to the Prusa blog. The only printers I still own are all Prusa but they definitely have their shortcomings.

>>2961256
>they've started to use proprietary hardware like their nozzles
Prusa has used custom hardware since the Mendel's heated bed and the MK1's cutout frame. That doesn't make it proprietary. You can buy Nextruder nozzles from third party suppliers, and Prusa is fine with that.

>and have plans to be less open source, according to the Prusa blog.
Link?

>>2961183
The Voron project, LDO for kits
K3, Honybadger for kits
Ratrig for preassembled options

>>2961263
>You can buy Nextruder nozzles from third party suppliers, and Prusa is fine with that.

is everyone in this thread an unc?

>>2961274
I'm 35.

>>2961274
Gen alpha would probably burn their houses down trying to use a 3D printer

>>2959732
>Doesn't the z axis matter the least?
to reach Zen you will discover the z-axis matters the MOST. Does your printer not build from Z0-Zx? VFAs are your final boss and those are only fixed on the z-axis. The best fix so far though is upgrading to GT1.5 belts tuned to 105mhz for that silky smooth outer shell.

>>2961319
I still think it doesn't matter, dess KAH

>>2959824
>if there is a foolproof way
the answer is YES, but that allll goes into the shitter once you change filaments.

>>2961066
Depends on many factors, print size, walls, infill type. Switching top layer pattern can change the time. Multiple colors each multiply the time.

Basically just get orca set it to a1 and slice shit, it tells you how long ams estimates how much filament.

You don't need a printer to answer this for yourself, c'mon anon, big boy pants time.

>>2961237
Set device ip to 192.168.1.222 high enough to not interfere, easy to remember. Also >>>/g/

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my squished lines look inconsistent in with and all, i must calibrate linear advance ?

>>2961381
post photo
if you're talking about first layer defects there is a lot of stuff you should address first

>>2961274
not sure what you mean by this. But I do have two nieces.

>>2961237
printers have notoriously bad wireless antennas.
I basically had to buy a mesh repeater just for my qidi xmax-3. No other device in the basement had issues.

>>2961269
>
Why yes. Was this news to you?
https://www.phaetus.com/en-us/products/sic-nextruder-prusa-nozzle
https://diamondbacknozzles.com/products/prusa-nextruder-compatible/

So how about that link?

>>2961432
>news
It certainly seems like you missed some. Prusa never shared spec out of E3D. Phaetus had to reengineer the whole thing and stopped bothering with what turned into a meh market. Prusa is absolutely not fine with third party suppliers. Don't believe me? Just visit any 3dp event with a phaetus booth and ask them. Depending on the guy, it can get a bit frosty.
>inb4 noo Joseph bro would never do that!11
Then where are all the other manufacturers?
>link
Not that anon, he's probably referencing the blog post where Joseph proclaimed open source isn't working anymore or something like that. Somewhere after the release of MK4.

>>2961440
>Prusa is absolutely not fine with third party suppliers.
Have they made intellectual property claims against the third party companies selling the design? The ones I linked are long-established reputable companies of the sort that are constrained by court orders. Actions (or a lack) actually matter.

>Then where are all the other manufacturers?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FPCSFRY1
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Nextruder-Nozzle-Upgraded-Accessories/dp/B0FR482CP9
https://www.amazon.com/Imdinnogo-Prusa-MK4-Hotend-Replacement/dp/B0D5HP6GFW
https://www.amazon.com/POLISI3D-Heatbreak-Compatible-Nextruder-Heaterblock/dp/B0CW91V1TJ
https://www.amazon.com/Nozzles-Hardened-Precision-Compatible-Nextruder/dp/B0F267C5PQ
That's from the first half of the first page of Amazon search results for "nextruder". Want Alibaba results too?

>Just visit any 3dp event
>or something like that. Somewhere after the release of MK4.
You 're acting like it's my job to support your point for you. Simply saying that evidence which supports your point exists somewhere does not actually constitute evidence that supports your point.

>>2961445
>An actual Prusa shill
Might reply tomorrow.

>>2961447
>unsupported statement
>How did you reach that conclusion?
>Shill!

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My army grows larger.

>>2961463
lieutenant dan ain't go no legs

>>2961412
>My printer had a notoriously bad wireless antennas.
>I basically had to buy a mesh repeater just for my qidi xmax-3. No other device in the basement had issues.
FTFY. You know my fucking bambu is irradating my balls through two floors just to transmit to the ancestral land.

>>2961183
Qidi Q2
Runs standard Klipper with root access. I can fully control it with any klipper app or the online klipper interface. Apparently you can even reflash the firmware for custom one, but there isn't one available yet.

>>2961538
I used to have a Qidi Q1 Pro and a Xplus 4. The Q1 was really solid but the Xplus 4 was absolute dogshit.

>>2961535
>my printer
Nah, qidi's the one I finally caved for and bought the router since everything else about it just werks.
I've also had a prusa mk4, a cr10s+octopi, and a buddy's a1, all had connection problems.
I've got an htpc right next to the area where I kept these printers and that works fine.

>>2961633
I read similar things about the Plus4, apparently most of it was due to the shit bed leveling system they used. The Q2 uses a significantly better one. I haven't had a single problem on mine in 200 hours of printing, absolutely flawless machine.

I want to give 3d printing a shot
Mostly as a hobby, to make learning 3d modeling more fun and to print some random plastic interior parts, brackets, clips, cupholder etc. for my car
I don't really care about multicolor and don't mind noise as long as it won't drive people crazy through closed door

From what I researched around my budget I could buy:
- Bambu A1 Mini w/wo AMS
- Bambu A1 wo AMS
- Elegoo Centauri Carbon

What do you guys think?
I think Bambu would be the easiest to resell in case I don't enjoy it and it has the nice ecosystem, but on the other hand it seems to be the gay apple like company
Elegoo on the other hand seems hit or miss with quality and it went through so many iterations I would be worried I'll get some outdated warehouse dweller unit

>>2961724
A1 Mini with AMS is probably the best.
AMS and material switching for multi-material prints is a bit of a gimmick, but, you can do cool stuff with it, and if you want to learn how to 3D print, model and have fun with it, things that are cool is kind of the point. But with the AMS is nice for is just filament management. You put 4 spools on there, you choose which you want to print from, and it goes. Without AMS you're unloading and loading filaments yourself every time you want to print anything. And it takes a minute, but if you're printing a lot of stuff, it's a nice convenience for that to be automatic.

Elegoo is probably the best insofar as like "I want to print usable parts". If you're getting into 3D printing to make random functional objects, Elegoo is pretty good for it. Normal-sized build plate, can do a range of materials, pretty good QoL features. Software is a bit hit or less. For better or worse, Bambu supports their stuff for longer and updates things in firmware or releases attachments and kits that allow you to upgrade stuff yourself. But, obviously, you pay extra for that. I've not really heard anything wrong on the Elegoo, I think people said the earlier firmware as a bit buggy? But, I imagine they've fixed that by now.

A1 W/O AMS is just kinda a bad option right now. It's too close in price to the P1S, and the P1S has more going for it.

Second hand printers are pretty affordable, I'd look into that, honestly. Especially given the P2S released recently. Even if it's got 1K+ hours on it, it probably just needs a new nozzle, extruder gear and a clean. Maybe a new belt in the worst case. Bambu's website has an entire catalogue of spare parts you can use to get it back into peak condition.


I guess Bambu is probably the most reliable option. But, Elegoo is a good deal, if it works as expected.


As for noise, they're louder than you think.

>>2961445
Yes, you are miserable a shill and out of all options you chose the most miserable one. At least go funk tinfoil and people don't mind.
>www.amazon.com/dp/B0FPCSFRY1
Chink clone of Fysetc aka Phetus
>www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Nextruder-Nozzle-Upgraded-Accessories/dp/B0FR482CP9
Fysetc aka Phetus
>www.amazon.com/Imdinnogo-Prusa-MK4-Hotend-Replacement/dp/B0D5HP6GFW
Not even a Prusa nozzle anymore
>www.amazon.com/POLISI3D-Heatbreak-Compatible-Nextruder-Heaterblock/dp/B0CW91V1TJ
Not even a nozzle anymore
>www.amazon.com/Nozzles-Hardened-Precision-Compatible-Nextruder/dp/B0F267C5PQ
Chink clone of Fysetc aka Phetus

Now i know you will give me that
>Hurr durr just because they all use that same insert design doesn't prove they're all from the same single place
But then try to find something as simple as hardened steel, heck try anything without that insert design.
>Alibaba
Yeah, sure. I'd be happy if proven wrong.
>You 're acting like it's my job to support your point for you
Sure, buddy. We're still at proving your statement.
>You can buy Nextruder nozzles from third party suppliers, and Prusa is fine with that.

>>2961071
Hey Mr. Moneybags, get yourself the silicone printing toolhead for your XL and start making custom "bike handles", wink, wink. :D

>>2960710
Have you tried to print one of these tolerance testing models with holes and pins to see how accurate your printer prints? Also, when exporting your models into 3mf/stl-files most MCAD tools allow to config the resolution and I usually turn it up from the default so the holes and pins are more round. (for example, if you turn the accuracy really low your holes become hex-shaped) If you see banding on curved surfaces your accuracy is too low which will make holes smaller than intended. Also, it's usually a good idea to utilize the give of your material and design the parts to be able to flex a bit to make things snap together nicely while being more tolerant to the imperfections of your slicer/printer. Most slicers also have options to make holes/pins more accurate somewhere in the slicer-settings. PLA is much stiffer(more brittle) than say PETG and might require some test-prints to get the tolerances dialed in. Just make small test prints with critical features and creep onto the best settings for your use-case.

>>2961724
Anything car basically requires ABS/ASA minimum, ideally nylon (PA6), and for these you want a closed heated chamber printer. If I were to buy a printer today I'd get one with either a toolchanger or a dual nozzle, as it's the best option for functional parts because it allows to print supports and parts in different materials without waste and without sacrificing speed. AMS is a quality of life feature, but it's an inefficient system made to cope with the lack of dedicated nozzles for each filament.

>>2960006
You might want to look into "photogrammetry" before shelling out money on a scanner for the occasional 3d scan. There's open source software available for this and you probably already have a camera that can do that. You need to avoid distortions so a camera with optical zoom and taking pictures from a distance is best to avoid optical distortions. You probably need to glue the models onto a stick so that you can take pictures from all angles and you need to learn how to clean up the model. Capable 3d scanners that cut down on post processing are beyond the weekend-warriors budget I'm afraid.
Oh, and you need a light box and good lighting so the background doesn't confuse the photogrammetry-algorithm or you create tons of work in post-processing the distorted model later.
Cleaning up scanned models require quite some work, so be prepared to git good at it. Also, a beefy puter helps to process all your pictures to generate a 3d points-cloud that can be converted into a mesh and then turn into a solid model.
Oh, and photogrammetry doesn't work on shiny objects and reflective surfaces (they confuse the algorithm) so you might need to prepare the models so that they get a matte finish, ideally in grey for the best pick-up of features.
Good luck, anon. It's tons of fun (if you like technical work) but not for the faint of heart.

>>2959945
Bellows for protecting CNC-machine rails or to build a Voight-Kampff replica. This requires a printer with a dual/multi-nozzle setup since mixing TPU with the support material (PLA) ruins the characteristics of TPU (makes it brittle).
"functional print friday" has a cool video about his bellow design on yt.

>>2961724
Get Qidi Q2, for car stuff you need engineering filaments and for that you need active chamber heating.

>>2961780
Toolhead changer is pure CADlet cope. Same for overusage of support. Learn how to design and neither is needed.

>>2961791
retard post by someone who doesn't pay for engi filaments

>>2961792
>engi filament
Sure we can talk about PA11/12 and MJF. That's what you're referring to, right?

>>2961796
anything thats ~$40/500g hugely benefits from a toolchanger regardless of elite CAD skill or optimization

>>2961792
He's not wrong though. Needing supports on your prints typically correlates to having loads on a part that will fuck it up anyways.

>>2961799
all else being equal sure, design is hugely important. but sometimes a lot of support material is necessary and if you are printing a lot of infused nylon or whatever the cost/waste adds up. writing off the obvious solution to that as a skill issue is dumb

>>2961800
>sometimes a lot of support material is necessary
Know what, show us an example and prove yourself right.

>>2961800
the weight of support hasn't been relevant since the introduction of tree supports. it's basically nothing these days.
Most of my "failures" are from design changes/thinking of better ways of doing things, or simply wanting for the part to be different in some way.
Nylon-CF has a particular sting to it anytime I have to throw it in the bin. Siraya's 25% fiber core ppa is perhaps the best price to performance I found and it's still $85/kg. and being nylon a kilo doesn't go as far as others.
I can see the advantage of a tool changer here where I can get something out of PLA first then in nylon, but I'd probably still remain too lazy to print the same thing twice.

>>2961791
>pure CADlet cope
>overusage of support
Nigga in the real world stuff is not made with 3D printing in mind, when you need a functional print for either a prototype or a part replacement chances are the model isn't conducive to 3D printing. If instead you want to print some plastic trinker to shove up your butt, sure, keep the manufacturing process in mind, like with any other process. Retard.

>Don't use printer for like 3 weeks
>Go to print something
>Filament snaps

The fuck? It's PLA, is it cause we're in the cold months I'm new to this. After I took the loose piece out the extruder and reset it up, it worked perfectly, but I'm still wondering why that happened

>>2961812
Nyar.

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>>2961802
>prove an obvious reality of fdm
seriously? imagine any object that has to be printed vertically and/or diagonally to fit within the dimension limits of your printer, the more intricate the better. lots of fosscad shit is like this
>>2961803
>the weight of support hasn't been relevant since the introduction of tree supports
what are you talking about? 50g used for supports is not uncommon for the aforementioned tall prints and that seriously adds up on rolls that are only sold in half kgs. if you are printing small then sure it doesn't really matter, but that isn't everyones use case

>>2961809
>functional print for either a prototype or a part replacement chances are the model isn't conducive to 3D printing
Pure and unadultered skill issue. 90% of the time there is an obvious and easy way to design for no support prints.

>>2961817
>within the dimensions of your printer
Sloppy goalpost and everything can be cut up. At large sizes it will be advisable to reinforce anyway.
>a hand guard
Is that supposed to be the example? So far no support needed, even with a fancy 600 angle it'll be negligible.

>>2961812
shouldn't have touched yourself.

>>2961832
: (

>>2961817
What's it with fosscad attracting so many morons? It's like fried chicken but for white niggers.

>>2961812
dry your shit then try again

>>2961734
>Chink clone
Yes. These are clones. That is, they are drop-in replacements made by third parties. As requested.

>Not even a Prusa nozzle anymore
The Prusa Nextruder hotend is a quick-swappable unit that clips in place. This is an assembled third-party hotend which includes a nozzle that plugs into a Nextruder. That is, the listing includes a third-party Nextruder nozzle.

>Not even a nozzle anymore
This is a clone of the Prusa v6 Nextruder adapter, which allows v6-style nozzles to be used with the Nextruder:
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter/
Prusa released it so that their customers can use third-party nozzles of a more common form factor while still using the Nextruder that comes standard on some Prusa printers.

>I'd be happy if proven wrong.
You don't seem very happy. You seem to be seething about statements of obvious things. But anyway, here's an Alibaba-hosted third-party Nextruder nozzle: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Hotend-Kit-for-Prusa-MK4-XL_1601266970739.html Assembled hotends seem to be more popular there than separate nozzles. Want more examples?

>We're still at proving your statement.
Then let's review:
>You can buy Nextruder nozzles from third party suppliers
Yep, as above.
>and Prusa is fine with that.
No legal action regarding intellectual property violations.

Anything to add?

This cannot be sustainable.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bhiPxG161Ak

>>2961812
I've found the same thing. When the filament goes through the extruder and is then pulled out it becomes very brittle if it sits. I always make a habit of despooling until I can't feel the extruder marks and cutting the filament. it happens more with some filaments than others but happened/s both on my delta and bambu.

>>2961822
how is that moving goal posts its a utilization where there are a lot of supports, not everything can be printed flat or upright and lots of parts are better printed in one piece than fused together later for obvious reasons
>even with a fancy 600 angle it'll be negligible
anything with useable picatinny is going to warrant extensive supports, especially with nylon
>>2961838
name-calling
so you have nothing then lol

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>>2960630
>Check out “aurora tech” she has decent reviews imo

thanks. massive improvement over everyone else ive seen.


>>2960632
>K2pro has a heated chamber so that's a big plus for printing ASA/ABS, printing those filaments without a proper heated chamber is pure suffering.

Thanks. I want to use abs & petg mainly so that makes a big difference. I just pulled the trigger, will be my first printer.

>>2961893
>Not a single example
There's nothing to add at this point.
>hand guard
>FDM nylon
And frankly i don't even wanna know at this point.

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>>2961926
>not a single example
despite your presenting here as some kind of know-it-all, you are seemingly too mentally impoverished to use your imagination to conceptualize printing of any sort of large, intricate parts at odd angles for both space and stress reasons. even with your haughty attitude you yourself sure are lacking any evidence for your claims that both support material is a miniscule concern (empirically false) and that needing supports on any and every print is a design issue (retarded). feel free to prove me wrong.
>hand guard
I thought you said I didn't give an example
>I don't wanna know how little I know because I am a noguns retard
figures. continue to jerk off over your epic CAD skills even though it has nothing to do with the brand new guy that wants to print automotive objects as a hobby, meaning without spending hours studying the CAD first like (You), his fat retard wannabe sensei on 4channel

>>2961934
You didn't give an example that proves your point, right the opposite.
And your retaliation to all of that is basically you're new and don't know better, then why are you giving advice to others to begin with and talk about "engi filaments"? Lastly
>name-calling
>so you have nothing then lol
Yet here you are trying to call me a retard for calling out your ignorance.
>noguns
Yes, printing gun parts can be a very delicate objective, moreso with a humidity sensible filament out of all things. I wouldn't advice a beginner to come even close to the subject and just buy their gun like a normal person, but hey, might as well just enjoy the view out of my ivory tower seeing know-it-alls hurt themselves.
BMI of 23.5 btw

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>>2961906
I hope you get a working machine. I bought one in March this year. Creality can't be bothered to test a printer before shipment. My K2Plus had some stupid "No trigger on y after full movement" error. Creality agreed after 2 weeks of troubleshooting it was defective. But wouldn't tell me what the actual problem was, they wouldn't send me a return label and after they said it was defective just stopped responding completely. I issued a chargeback and got all my money back. I got to keep the broken printer and narrowed it down to the y axis motor via probing with multimeter, but you can't buy replacement x or y motors and they won't send you one and you can't replace it with a normal stepper, since it's a servo type with proprietary control board. So now I have a free broken pos that is just taking up space in my living room in it's original box, unless someone finds the actual part/makes a replacement. Weirdly I searched my problem and it seems several people have the same issue and have gone through chargebacks. or ended up with a broken machine and didn't get their money back. Fucking shameless.

I just bought a Bambu A1 and couldn't be happier, since it fucking works. And it's not even like I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to 3d printing, I built my own printer in the reprap days and got an Ender 3 the first week it released. I spent over 1k on the ender in various upgrades over the years and it's still a garbage machine. I'm so done with Creality. While I hate Bambu's proprietary nature at least I can go back to fucking printing prototype robot parts. FFS I'm so angry i wasted so much time on a literal garbage machine. I really do hope you get a working one anon.

>>2961941
I've never seen anyone happy with a Creality machine that wasn't an Ender made before 2018.

>>2961941
All the other issues aside, isn't there some kind of alternative board/klipperised K2 project out there? There are people out there who already got H2S' servo motor working on klipper. Heck, SV08 can be run on RRF these days.

>>2961943
Well, I am happy with my K1C

I just started with CAD, using CadQuery. Is that a good choice? So far I like it but I don't really understand the pros and cons yet, just chose it because I already know Python.

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>>2961906
>$1500 on a creality
lol. lmao.

Bros, for printing single color black ASA, PLA, some PETG and TPU as a noob
Centauri Carbon, P1S or Kobra S1?
Heard Centauri will keep your neighbors up at night, are the other two just as bad? What about silent mode?
I'm getting FOMOd by the Bambu sale not gonna lie

>>2961937
>calling others new/ignorant
>no examples of his own
>you are white trash and don't insult me back
>nothing to back up your argument
am I just supposed to take your word for your supposed CAD proficiency? because from my perspective you are just some asshole on the internet contradicting my own learned experience with printing nylon
PLEASE support your claim that using any supports for 3d printing is a skill issue, particularly with respect to high performance materials as might be expected in automotive or firearm applications, where design is not something you can just radically reinterpret, which is the nexus of this idea of yours that toolchangers are somehow worthless

>>2961953
I would give FreeCAD another chance since the current releases are ok to use for simple designs like one does in 3D-printing.
Onshape is much more polished and easy to use/learn and also free to use for hobby projects that are public, if the cloud-based solution isn't a no-go for you.
I switched to FreeCAD since I want to do open hardware projects and like the idea of being able to work on air-gapped systems and the ability to mothball the tool and the project to be able to work offline. It certainly has a somewhat steep learning curve due to some bugs/quirks but it's currently the best option if you want to work on sensitive designs that should remain off the internet.
The yt channel "mango jelly solutions" has some excellent tutorial videos that helped me a lot to get over the issues I ran into learning FreeCAD.
I tried to get into "code-CAD" several times but designing things is such a visual skill-set and I got frustrated how much time I need to design even simple things in code alone, like with openSCAD. FreeCAD has a python console that outputs the python code that gets executed in the background while designing via the GUI and I used that to automate some portions of my designs via code after designing most of the design using the FreeCAD GUI, which is probably a more sane method to utilize automation via code in MCAD work.

>>2962002
Have you ever heard the phrase "don't feed the trolls"? It's a bit old fashion, but surprisingly current in its meaning.

>>2961943
Yeah, me either, even reviewers who get them for free seem disappointed.

>>2961945
The K2Plus already runs klipper with Fluidd from factory.

The actual issue on my machine is a malfunctioning servo motor control board on the Y axis. The motor works, but it's positioning is failing. I tried soldering new wires, because when flexing the wires, it sometimes had position updates. But it didn't work, same problem. Likely a fluke with the

I even took the X axis servo control board and swapped it with the Y axis, and the problem follows the servo control board, so it's not the stepper but the actual custom pcb. I am going to attempt using one of those octopus circuits which help troubleshooting broken vs working pcbs to narrow down the broken components, but there is a chip with it's ID scrapped off and im pretty sure it's that chip.

I tracked down the manufacturer of the stepper which is comgrove, and the servo controller is from moon and they claim it's a proprietary custom motor controller and wont sell a replacement. They said the only option is to go through Creality, which has completely ghosted me before issuing the charge back. The actual part is labeled Moons MS17HD Series but that's manufactured by comgrove and it's just the stepper motor without the custom servo control board which is what I need.

Someone on reddit did say that the chip with it's ID scrapped off is a CH32V303CBT6, which is a chinese clone of a STM32F303. It also has two HTD8236-HEROIC chips (H-bridge) and a MT6826S. I can find the CH32 chip, but since it's a microcontroller it's got firmware on it that I have no way of getting, I'd have to somehow dump it and get it on the new one which is likely very very hard or more likely impossible.

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>>2961404
i used to have very big ripples but the problem has gone away after setting track with to 0.48

>>2962033
Holy underextruderino!

>>2962033
fucking hell dude, dial that shit in.
underextruded, no squish, im amazed anything sticks

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>>2962033
Are you trying to use a 0.4 nozzle with a 0.6 profile? how are you fucking it up this bad?

>>2962033
Is your nozzle partially clogged?

>>2962027
Are you not entertained? Is this not why you are here?

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>>2962033

>>2962002
>>2962027
>>2962125
and i assume >>2961838
Guess it took me long enough. For what's it worth i really did think this would turn into at least a tiny cad exercise. Alas Fuck off

>>2961973
>>$1500 on a creality
>lol. lmao.

It wasnt US dollars dipshit. converted to USD i paid around $760.

2025 and theres still smoothbrains who assume everyone on the internet lives in the same place they do. Amazing.

Anyways, lets humour you and run the numbers on the printer in your pic.

printer cost: $1049usd
shipping cost from the qidi global store: $550usd
customs fees: $220usd

total converted to my shitty dollar: $3155

WOW WHAT A DEAL

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>>2960064
>>2960068
>>2960081
ok so i made a thing in freecad for my polydryer vesa mount abomination. I found an STL of a polydyer base which was really helpful for dimensions. One question I have is how do I know how thick I need to make the bottom surface for strength? (the bottom surface holds the polydryer and its connected to the vesa mount)

Right now the bottom is 1cm thick, and the mounting holes (M4) have a 5mm inlay (is that the right word), and the through hole is also 5mm. Hopefully the pictures make sense

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>>2962207

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>>2962208

>>2962207
also another question about the bottom, do i need it to be completely solid? should i try to take out some of it (add holes)? dont know what kind of pattern to take material out with

>>2962218
1 cm is more than enough. it would be fine at 5mm but you wouldn't have depth for your screws. your strength is going to come from top and bottom layers (3 is probably good) and infill (default is 15, try 30, wouldn't go higher than 45) and walls (2 is fine)

type of infill matters somewhat I'd go grid based on the orientation.

holes help with weight and strength but I wouldn't bother in this case. your real weakness here is the layer lines (as always)

after slicing you can scrub through the layers, it's good to look and see how the infill looks etc. like visually inspect the long ends of the corners infill and make sure it's not doing weird shit (like set it to 10% infill slice and see the difference)

>>2962024
I agree with you about all of this even though I use OnShape currently after starting with FreeCAD. Having my documents accessible from any browser is nice, even at work, without having to install anything.

>>2962235
Onshape is currently leagues above FreeCAD in terms of convenience and intuitive GUI, for sure. It took me a couple weeks of sifting through FreeCAD's rage-inducing quirks but now I seem to automagically steer away from workflows that don't work on FreeCAD and I don't run into the nasty bugs anymore but I understand that it's not ready for professional use yet. It's a shame that this free tool can't be recommended to MCAD newbies yet due to its quirks that would confuse them to the point of giving up on learning CAD. It's still the best free MCAD tool I'm aware of and quite powerful due to the various custom workbenches. It's currently the tool for open hardware zealots that are in for the long haul, being a bit masochistic helps too.

>>2962193
>American website
>American hobby
>American Empire
LMAO fuck off paco your entire livelihood is a rounding error

>>2962207
depends on the filament that you're using. I'd stick to some form of ABS, possibly even gf-ABS just cause autism.
You don't need it to be super thick. maybe in the 2-5mm range depending on whether or not you're using threaded inserts/threading directly into the plastic or using nuts.

>>2962193
Letting the third world onto the internet was a mistake.

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The future of boomers selling Flexi dragons has arrived.

Notice the difference
>>2962249
>muh unspecified rage inducing quirks
>It's good, but not good enough haha
>>2962235
>Cloud works better for me
Sometimes i really do think the anti freecad shilling is real. At least make an actual complaint like chamfers throwing you straight into brepapi hell.

>>2962207
It'll do fine. Don't forget your mouse ears if you're not relieving strain on your bottom otherwise.

>>2962260
Just to be clear, this wasn't a complaint against >>2962235

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I want to make my own 1u to 4u rack mounts to mount some server gear because prices for even amazon chinese crap is insanity. The largest piece I own is 4u (7") and weighs about 50lbs since it has 2 dozen drives in it. Since each rack unit ("u") has 3 holes giving 4u 12 per post and 48 total, I should have no problem supporting 50lb with that much surface to work with right? Provided I design it properly of course. What would be the best non exotic material to use since I'm sure it will want to creep no matter how overbuilt I make it.

>>2962255
I don't get how the plates are swapped

>>2962292
Just to be clear, rack mounts as your pic rel? If yes, you're in the wrong general. Get some used ones, drill holes in square tube or do the LACK meme. Plastik may hold your servers, but not the screws holding them.

>>2962303
No no, not the rack itself, I mean brackets for the gear that goes onto the rack. I bought a cheap steel 4 post rack, but "cheap" universal mounting rails for the gear are $30 a pop for bent recycled cookie sheet, and if you want sliding rails that's $60-100 each for (literal) kitchen drawer slides.

>>2962250
you forgot
>Chinese Printers

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>>2962295
note each plate is on it's own white tray. a simple lever yoinks the complete plate which catches the next plate and drags it into place.

>>2962292
ASA
design is important you'll want speed holes, ribs, fillets and to play close attention to orientation. 3mm with infill is a nice stiff wall. do not make the mistake of thinking more infill is better.

taking design cues from existing plastic versions should help

>>2962292
>>2962306
Is this some AUD misunderstanding? You can buy mounts for 40€ a set. Heck, i do have a rack for 99€ next town.

>>2962309
If we'd actually threw out all chink printers this thread would improve manifold.

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>>2962260
My main gripes with FreeCAD is the super weird way how mates work and bugs related to the topological naming problem.
The parts mate together right as expected in the preview (before clicking apply) and it seems to work similar to Solidworks but then after clicking OK the directionality of mates kick in and some parts get turned 180 degrees without notice and sometimes I didn't notice it right away since I was so zoomed in and had to re-do the following mates. I do now know why this happens but it's really confusing that it first snaps together like I wanted and then change after applying the change.
Topological naming problem: I'm very sorry to say this but this is such a stupid bug caused by the programmer renaming features after a model changes instead of keeping the names of features that already existed and only adding new features. This bug can manifest is really weird ways like an assembly exploding and mates getting attached to random surfaces, causing an assembly to get totally scrambled (pic related). I know there is the thunder-guys fork that mitigates that bug somewhat but working with a fork of a single person seems like a bad idea since he can't keep up with all the improvements in other areas as a single person.
Don't get me wrong, FreeCAD is awesome and the best MCAD tool out there atm but the TNP is a deal-breaker for commercial use since it makes changes in models a crap-shoot that often ends up with forcing people to redo a bunch of work compared to tools like SW (ok, a bit unfair since it's an $$$ tool) where I can make models that are tolerant to later changes (with minimal planning beforehand) and I have never run into issues similar to the TNP. I can change any early feature and it recalculated the model how I expect it to work, at least 99 percent of the time. In contrast, making changes in models in FreeCAD gives me PTSD from the past experiences where I wasted a ton of work since a part/assembly exploded in a way I couldn't fix.

Good god thingiverse is choked with AI slop only some of it even marked AI

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im about to buy a bamboo lab mini, which filament should i get if i want to build a case and plate for pic related?

>>2962323
>My main gripes with FreeCAD is the super weird way how mates work and bugs related to the topological naming problem.
arent those mostly fixed in the part workbench? (the one actually useful i never know without looking) didnt get into any lately, honestly, but it may be that i learnt to avoid those mistakes
For assembly i think most fixes are into the new 1.1

>>2962312
Can I use abs? I have a bunch on hand, but if asa is that much better I can pick up a roll. And yeah im definitely going to overbuild it as much as possible with plenty of walls and shells.

>>2962319
I wish it was aud, and I'm planning on mounting at least 5 components so that's $150 for cheap mounts and up to $500 for sliding ones, when the rack was only $80 which is stupid, hence why id rather just design and print my own for like $17 in plastic.

>>2962364
As far as I am aware (I am a somewhat interested rookie) ABS and ASA are pretty similar in performance. ABS is older and was created mostly with injection molding in mind (flows great and fast) and ASA as a filament is more optimized for printing. And it has better UV resistance.
If something goes into your car or your garden, make it from ASA.
Since ABS is more established, there are more colors available.

>>2962358
PLA or PETG, you can do a bit of research on which is better for your purposes. PETG tends to be stronger and more heat resistant, but may b a bit more finicky to print. For the purposes of a keyb case I don't think it really matters.

>>2962378
Close, but ASA was invented as direct contender to ABS by Germans and has been used in cars long before the first serin printer ever came to be. Else you're pretty spot on. Might as well throw in ABS being a bit cheaper, a lot so when you're buying on company rates.

>>2962358
Doesn't really matter per we they'll all do. However you can influence sound quite a lot, depending on your preference. If you just want a stupid answer; use PETG.

>>2962364
it boggles the mind, why did you ask? just use the fucking ABS.

>>2962250
Anon lives in New Zealand.

One week with the A1 mini and I already regret not buying the AMS lol

What is the /3dpg/ consensus on solid edge? I would like to move away from cloud (onshape) and semi cloud (fusion) to fully local before either decide to rugpull their free editions. Freecad has come a looong way BUT is still kind of a mess, and solidworks is widely used but has a learning curve I couldn't seem to negotiate when I, uh, borrowed it for a couple weeks. Solid edge seems promising being free and 100% local, but I'm curious what everyone thinks about it and if it's worth making the switch, let alone investing the time to learn it. That's the main thing keeping me with fusion currently, it's intuitive and about 92% retard proof in my experience.

>a1 mini
>have custom petg preset since the default one was stringing like hell and coming up from the plate and such
>upgraded to p2s
>transferred my preset over and have been using it there as well
>start a new print
>realize i didn't set my preset and I'm using the default one
>print came out perfect
huh alright

i dried my petg roll for 8 hours and there are still teeny tiny bubbles everywhere. reeeeee
glad this is a functional print and not aesthetic but man, so frustrating

>>2962669
Depends a lot on how wet it was to start with. And on the drying conditions. 60C with good air flow?

>>2962589
>using the default one
bambu lads

>>2962497
if fusion rugpulls I'm curbfucked I have hundreds of models

>>2962676
yeah, 60c for 8hrs in a polydryer. little filament outlet open to vent humid air. the humidity reading went down from 44% (!!) to 10% after the 8 hours. did a test print for stringing, came out fine. now doing a larger print with lots of flat surfaces and i see bubbles. goign to do 12 hours next time.

>>2962680
>the humidity reading went down from 44% (!!) to 10% after the 8 hours.
If all you did was heat 44% humid air at 25C to 60C, the relative humidity would drop to 7%. Something like a food dehydrator achieves this instantly and exposes the filament to a large flow of hot, dry air that is constantly cycled out. If your dryer takes hours to get to the point where it will start drying at a reasonable speed, that's hours you need to add to your time estimate.

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>>2962207
ok i printed this and attached it to the monitor arm
works fine but the polydryer box is a bit loose. the polydryer itself fits fine but the box is a bit smaller. i intend to use it mostly for holding the polydryer box without the dryer attached so i'll get some little rubber feet to use as standoffs so its a snug fit or something. dont know yet.

its easy to swing out of the way to open the AMS or make room in that area, and also i can adjust the height (more effort) so im thinking if i need to print 85A TPU or something I can actually position the monitor arm right behind the top of the printer so there will be minimal resistance

>>2962680
Old wet PETG can need a while to dry, give it a day or two and then see. What’s the ambient temp and RH?

>>2962689
The 10% figure isn’t reliable, those sensors barely ever read below 10%, and when they do I don’t think they do so accurately.

>>2962739
Looks surprisingly practical

>>2962739
printed a thing and nobody died. who'd have thunkit?

>>2962739
looks good anon fuck the haters and losers