I'm thinking of buying a chamber heater for my P1S. Any suggested brands? Should I go for something that draws power internally, or something that has it's own power supply that needs to be plugged in externally?

>>2984675
We have brand products for chamber heaters now?

man this shit is black magic sometimes
>trying to print some vertical print in place hinges
>6mm hinge doesn't give me any warning but fuses together badly
>10mm get a warning about floating geometry from the slicer
>but they print perfectly
same overhang angles, same offset, just more area, go figure

>>2984683
>what are perimeter and line widths.

>>2984684
but the mating surfaces that can get stuck are nested cones so the larger cone should contain an smaller cone identical to the first one that should print the same way and get stuck the same way

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>>2984687
you can typically get away with tighter tolerances on larger parts as the slicer is much more likely to be able to accurately path an extrusion that fits the geometry.
orca slicer has a setting in the preview tab where it lets you overlay actual geomtry onto a slightly transparent nominal.

I just got a SOVL6 Plus Ace. They're a chinky brand, but their build quality isn't terrible. I've been using OrcaSlicer and I've gotten some alright prints so far, but I can't really find any real, helpful information about the printer, or settings that would be helpful. I was hoping someone on here could give me some insight as to whether I bought a piece of shit, or if my poor choices are redeemable.

>>2984743
It's an alright PLA pusher. Too big for a bedslinger in my opinion.
If you can't describe what's exactly bothering you about it, there's not much help we can offer.

Does PLA hold sharpie well? I have some fine details that are too small for a paintbrush or spray paint

>>2984634
>cpap has a bit of lag on powering on to actually cooling
I was under the opposite impression, that by using a servo valve you could turn the airflow on and off far faster than a fan ramping up and down.

>>2984636
I dunno about you guys, but I prefer to flush after wiping.

>>2984743
You kinda fucked up, but if you don’t have any problems with the hardware then no problem. It’s when you have to contact support that you have trouble. Print some calibration prints so you can articulate which parts you’d like to improve.

>>2984683
Anyone had an issue where freecad will produce a model that works perfectly inside freecad, but once exported it generates lots of artifacts on orcaslicer?

>>2984756
You can get some ultra fine "detail brushes" that should run it smaller than a sharpie.

>>2984782
Guess I can check out michaels for that, sounds pricey

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Printed an enclosure for my mSATA adaptor board to replace my Thinkpad X301's ancient 1.8" SSD. It actually snaps together snugly and fits perfectly in the laptop, but the PCB doesn't quite fit because I didn't measure it perfectly. Nothing a bit of sanding can't fix though, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

>>2984759
>I was under the opposite impression
the issue is that the air takes time to go down the tube.
it doesn't take a long time, but its a noticeable issue, there are settings in some slicers to start the fan up early, but its a hassle.

>>2984785
Got a 12 piece set off amazon for like 10 bucks.

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>>2984786
noice. I still have picrel knocking about where I replaced the disc drive with an ssd on one almost 13 years ago now.

>>2984681
They all seem to be cheap Chinese shit, but I figured since I'm about to plug in something directly to the printer's power supply I may see if there's something reliable and not just dodge chink electronics.

>>2984795
Drop a link dude

>extruder motor barely crashes into vertical extrusions
>can fix it by moving the extruder forwards slightly
>the ptfe tube is no longer vertical
this is fine

>>2984795
12 pc miniature brushes pacocoast. Just search that and it'll pop.

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Getting into this hobby has been a blast. It's like being a cartoon villain, using a shrink ray to steal Mt. Rushmore or something stupid.
Pretty sure this glow in the dark stuff is trashing this nozzle, as I'm getting strings for the first time with this model where the supports meet. Got a full set of hardened steel ones coming just to be safe.

>>2984842
Glow in the dark stuff is pretty abrasive. Generally don't want to use it without a hardened nozzle.

>>2984842
>>2984874
i have a copper with SiC tip, great heat transfer while being almost indestructable

I got a golf club head printed in steel and it turned out great, but I think the surface is kinda porous because just the oil from my hands leaves a mark, and I don't think thats great for resisting rust and grass stains. Was thinking I'd polish it up and maybe hit it with some ferric chloride for a neat colour, but do you know anything that would like, seal it?

>>2984986
resin

Is there any cad program on linux that lets you create and comprehensively edit text in a sketch? Both freecad and onshape are awful for it, and ive been painfully getting by using orcaslicer's emboss feature

>>2985006
I use inkscape to write whatever I want, convert object to path, export that as svg, import it into freecad, convert it to sketch and then pad it out or pocket it as needed.

I printed pa6-cf20. It grew a lot and no longer fits in the hole I want to put it in. If I anneal, will it shrink back to print size permanently? Is shrinking it in the slicer the better option if annealing isn't beneficial?

>>2984986
If it needs to be tough, an electroplate might fill in those gaps enough. Chrome probably. Otherwise a cold blue might be enough for stain resistance.

>>2985006
>edit in a sketch
Wdym? Texts should be done in draft workbench, so you may still edit them later on. Or do you actually want a sketch to fiddle with specific letters?

>>2985018
It's nylon. As long as there's moisture in the air it will always grow a certain degree. See how far you can anneal it, put it in your hole and let it stay there.

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>TFW TMC2209 successor released two years ago
Has no one ever talked about this? I somehow completely missed it.

>>2985018
>>2985057
Please don't put 3d printed stuff in your hole.

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learning 3D printing is fun
modeled this small(5cm) thingie from scratch and printed it to test some features I want to use in a larger project
>print in place conical hinges work perfectly
>latch works just fine though I gave it a little too much slack out of abundance of caution
>lattice printed fine if a little ugly, but no aesthetic considerations were made this time
buying a 3D printer was a much more enjoyable investment than anticipated

>>2985058
because the conversation is all about multicolor flexidragons.
Some companies are looking to implement odrive/steppers with encoders but the cost of a failed print to the customer is nill compared to the cost of implementation.

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>>2985075
>ignores the top row of half diamonds
learn to fucking pattern bro

>>2985006
fusion360 directly edit sketch in timeline text yes

>>2985087
it's clearly on purpose to have less supports
you seem not very bright

>>2985090
>done for less supports.
>printed sideways on.
anon...

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Is it possible to eliminate individual toolpaths?
The pic related blue lines will not work as a bridge, and I don't want to use supports for two fucking lines.

>>2985095
Nevermind, figured it out with a a height range layer height modifier.

>3D print a design.
>Screw thread to connect two aprts.
>Literally never works properly

I don't get it.

>>2985058
You can buy plug in place 2226 modules since almost the same time. It's on you, anon. That said they're not that special besides higher voltage range and chip specific cooling.

>>2985083
I believe when i see it. A TMC4671 is still 15bucks a pop, plus encoder, mosfet and proper break resistor. We'll rather see full servo bldc implementations at that point.

>>2984745
>>2984759

I appreciate the help, guys. I'm not having too much trouble, I'm just having a bit of buyers remorse, because the Bambu's look so fuckin clean. One question though, too big for a bed slinger? Is there anyway I can correct any problems that may arise?

>>2985124
Larger bed means heavier bed means slower max Y movement. It's the most basic story why everyone jumped onto cube shaped printers. Doesn't matter for a beginner though, just stick with the recommended settings and focus on cad/modelling and slicing.

>>2985091
Not with that hinge shape it wasn’t. Look at the layer lines, it was printed in the orientation it’s photographed in. That said, bridging shouldn’t have any issue with those flat half-diamond tops.

>>2985105
4671s are nice to have for sure, but a low-ish cost MCU like an ESP32S2 can do FOC for cheaper.
>servo BLDC
Yeah doesn’t really make sense using stepper motors with closed loop feedback. Switched reluctance motors would be more temperature resistant than permanent magnet motors, so might be a good fit for extruder motors in a heated chamber.

>>2985148
>ESP32S2
Hilariously enough, that's the one without MPWM. Banter aside, i don't see that viable for mass scale, flashing and support will be hell. Bambu will copy Analog Devices and flood the market with a good price for incomparable tech. Just like DJI did. Frankly, i'm surprised they didn't already do so.

>>2985158
Oh yeah it also has only one core, basically an improved 8266. Meant the S3, since it gets vector instructions, at least the SimpleFOC project recommends it over everything bar the Teensy 4.x and STM32H7 that cost significantly more. But even the base-level ESP32 is pretty good. Depending on the loop speed requirements, you could potentially run multiple motor FOC loops off one MCU.
>flashing
You can get chips programmed at the PCB fab house, but it would be more robust if you let your printer’s mainboard flash them directly, allowing for motor drive firmware updates. With an ESP32-like chip, the positional communication and flashing could both be done via the same UART pins, no bootloader needed, you’d just need an extra GPIO pin for the reset/boot pin on each slave MCU. I think most MCUs can communicate in normal operation over their ICSP pins so long as they’re not a single-wire protocol like DebugWire or UPDI or whatever the CH32V003 uses.

Though I would like to see TMC4671 equivalents hit the market, don't suppose you know of any?

>>2984790
>the issue is that the air takes time to go down the tube.
Which is why, as anon mentioned, some setups use a valve to either direct the always-on CPAP-driven air either at the print or away, with the switch as fast as the valve can actuate.

>>2984986
>I think the surface is kinda porous because just the oil from my hands leaves a mark
Oil from hands leaves a mark on clean metal in general.

>I don't think thats great for resisting rust and grass stains
Is there a porosity spec given by the metal printing service? Do you know the specific alloy?

>Was thinking I'd polish it up and maybe hit it with some ferric chloride for a neat colour, but do you know anything that would like, seal it?
Chlorides are generally corrosive. You might consider nickel plating it. Unlike chrome, that shouldn't need underlayers for compatibility.

>>2985101
Learn tolerances.

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Halfway done with this filament weighing scale to go inside my filament drier. I’ll be printing some CF-PLA bearing blocks and annealing them to handle the heat, also a hollow bung to prevent the four strain gauge wires chafing on the aluminium there. I’ll also need to print a duct to feed a fan’s airflow through a PTC heating element, and a few housings for internal SHT35 temperature humidity sensors. And a venting door and surroundings to be actuated by a hobby servo.

>>2985177
>TMC4671 equivalents
Nah, if there were, there'd be at least a thread about it on simpleFOC.

>>2985204
I'm printing other people's designs.

>>2985251
Don't know if you've looked into it more than I have, but the three existing ways of getting FOC motor control working would be the TMC4671, SimpleFOC, or VESC, right? That or writing it yourself. There seem to be some microcontrollers with a bit more motor specific hardware than an ESP32S3's motor PWM modes, that might make it a tiny bit easier, but usually those are just shitty gate drive hardware or shitty current sense amps that are better as external chips. Besides Trinamic's own TMC9660, which includes a RISC-V MCU core alongside dedicated FOC calculating hardware.

Actually from TI there is the MCF8315/8316 with built-in transistors, and the MCF8329A with (1A!) gate driving outputs, but it's sensorless only for some reason, so only useful for higher speed applications like drone motors or whatever. Same for the Allegro AMT49406.

I just found the Infineon IMC100 series of parts, which looks to be a functional equivalent to the TMC4671 in most ways (can't tell from the datasheet if it's capable of holding a desired position), it's definitely cheaper. Only 40kHz maximum PWM frequency though, so not very useful for my GAN ambitions.

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I've got my trusty old ender 3v2 which I've always used with pretty much the default profiles ever since I got it. It prints fine, but slow, got tired of that and want to fine tune it following https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/Calibration (mainly because of slicer built-in tests instead of having to fiddle with webpage-built gcode)

My question is, at what stage do I increase speed/acceleration? I assume after max volumetric speed calibration I get the maximum speed ceiling of what the extruder can churn out. Do I then set all permiter speeds and such to a fuckton and let the max.vol.spd to limit those then? If not, how do I find the correct values?

>>2985267
yes

>>2985243
I just use a $10 kitchen scale zero on a matching empty spool and get it directly in g

>>2985203
>Oil from hands leaves a mark on clean metal in general.
pro tip if your buddy has a full suit of hema plate don't touch it

>>2985101
>>2985257
so tolerances vary widely by layer height. a screw thread at 28mm fits very different than the same stl at 16mm. so idk lower your layer height and/or use variable layer height to tighten up the threads/hinges/pip shit.

also lrn2CAD my melanin enriched negro

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>>2985257
Then get some metric drill bits. Or standard one if you've already got them on hand and are a homosexual.
If it's just m3 I believe (you should check) a 3/32" will leave you with a bore small enough for the threads to bite into.

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>>2984042
275c and keeping the enclosure at 45-50c fixed it seems. Made this case for a Lora Esp32

>>2985257
>I'm printing other people's designs.
>ishygddt

>>2985267
I recommend flashing firmware with input shaping and linear advance enabled (add a crtouch while you’re there if you haven’t already), and go through the tuning process for those. Input shaping test prints set a maximum acceleration if I recall.
As for speed, while you can set a maximum speed like that, faster print speeds will result in weaker prints, and you’d have to do such a test for every type of filament. If you want to print faster, I’d upgrade to a bigger nozzle, if not a better hot-end.

>>2985286
>I just use a $10 kitchen scale zero on a matching empty spool and get it directly in g
This is going inside my drier. To measure filament weight loss from moisture egress.

>>2985327
Nice, though the inside seems to be a bit lacking in mounting hard points. What battery are you gonna gram in there? Also give us a close-up of your shadow-line.

>>2985286
>pro tip if your buddy has a full suit of hema plate don't touch it
Traditional steel armor is oiled or otherwise coated to prevent rust. Does your buddy use anachronistic stainless armor?

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>>2985328
sometimes, shit I need already exists. Knowing how to spend 5-10 minutes searching can save hours of drafting and measuring.

Has there been any progress in rooting the K1C 2025?

>>2984756
yes it's fine but if you can't paint smaller than a sharpie that's a personal problem

>>2985347
>is oiled
yeah and guess what happens when you put your hand on it

>>2985334

Yeah, I got a crtouch, the sprite extruder, and mriscoc's firmware on a btt skr mini e3 v3, which I compiled with pressure avance and input shaping (tho I am unsure wether this board can do IS). Also I got a 0.6 nizzle coming my way.

I will look into the IS one as you say, when I get to that step. Thanks!

As for strength vs speed, maybe I can keep two profiles, one similar to default, another one with the speed-up.

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fucking hell. 35% relative humidity, inside of an eibos dryer that keeps it at 10%, and this shit still manages to go bad in 24 hours, probably less.
Siraya tech abs-cf25 core.
breaks half the time I try to load it, so full on the spool that the moment the taped end is removed it just wants uncoil itself and jump off the spool, and can't be left alone for more than a couple of hours.
that aside, I like it.
you'd think abs would be more resistant to moisture. fuck me. does anyone make a core filament that has a sensible amount of fibers, like 10-15% core and isn't basically a water sponge?

>>2985366
I've also got a modded ender 3 v2. First thing I did was a dual-z screw mod and tie-rods, though in hindsight I'd have gone dual belted Z instead. Not really sure how much of a difference it makes. Just recently I got a K1 bed, it's significantly better than my cheap golden textured PEI bed on both sides. Also a TZ V3.0 hot end and customised HeroMe-derived cooling system. It's good being able to bridge. When compiling Marlin for the CRtouch, I also defined a nozzle brushing area for one of those silicone nozzle brushes held next to the bed on a bracket, and enabled "unified bed levelling" instead of the normal mesh system. Seems to work pretty well. I haven't tuned input shaping or linear advance yet though.

For what reason did you upgrade the mainboard? Did you have one with the non-silent stepper drivers?

>>2985260
Yeah, i somewhat prefiltered in a "makes sense for 3d printers and doesn't require too much fiddling" sense and the later filters most. Else your thoughts are as far as mine. You can find some more interesting bridges and drivers when looking into drones, but i rather wait for that till i actually build a drone for myself.

>>2985367
was it good before?

About to start a 14 hour print, wish me luck anons.

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>>2985383
Yup. Here it is after it unspooled itself enough that the layer underneath were kept dry by the highly hygroscopic outer layers. the matte section feels almost styrene like, a little bit spongier and soft while the shiny portion feels properly solid. I couldn't split the part along the interface, so they've both abs and fused correctly.
Also helps that I set the dryer box at full tilt. This is all around 24 hours after I got a good print out of it. I've had nylons that re less fussy than this *ABS*. they've managed to make moisture sensitive abs.
>>2985391
embrace the 0.6 and 0.8 nozzle my negro.

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First time printing with a “fresh” roll of CF-PLA, this is the second print file. It wasn’t in a foil bag, is this looking fine? Dimensional accuracy is good even after annealing the first file on the bed though, which is great. But I’ll have to figure out a proper test to see if it’s really sufficiently heat resistant.

>>2985398
Well it is a fibre reinforced filament, apparently they’re all worse for moisture absorption, except maybe kevlar/aramid.

>>2985362
You get oil on your hand from oiled metal. The preceding conversation was about oil from hands leaving a mark on clean metal.

>>2985367
>and this shit still manages to go bad in 24 hours, probably less.
It's not unusual for a filament to absorb most of its water capacity in a day or so of open air exposure. Some things just experience worse consequences than others. But even PLA doesn't print as well when wet.

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>>2985412
issue is it wasn't in open air, it was in an eibos polyphemus set to maintain 10% rh. first attempt was so bad it led me to reslice, then to try to calibrate flow, before landing at *abs* absorbing moisture. I've had spools of abs left out for years and they've never needed drying. This particular one really is worse than nylons.
>>2985401
looks gud to me. so long as you aren't getting picrel boogers falling off the print you're probably fine.

>>2985415
I am getting a few boogers, but not that big. I chalk them up to the extrusion ratio being a bit too high for the first print. Mainly just a few retraction artefacts, I haven't tuned retraction on this new hot end at all. Having no part cooling through the entire print might be making the print quality worse, but I just don't want it getting any funny ideas before the bed annealing process.

These will all be parts for the inside of my filament dry box (>>2985243).

>>2985398
>embrace the 0.6 and 0.8 nozzle my negro.
I just picked them up cause they're on sale, but I'm not sure what they're specifically used for, is it just speed and lack of detail?

>>2985429
Also arguably they make stronger prints, and wider nozzles are less likely to clog, which can be an issue with fibre-filled filaments. I only ever use 0.6mm nozzles since I never need the detail, arachne is pretty forgiving.

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So what's the best way to store filament long-term? The autistic part of me wants to make a vacuum sealed safe.

Anyway, here's my current print, slow going but so far it hasn't fucked up.

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>>2985431

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Frens, what the cheapest way to really dry out filament? I'm considering throwing a spool in an ammo can and putting the can on top of a hot plate timed to turn on/off every 5 minutes, or paint it vantablack and leave it in the sun.
Thoughts?

>>2985437
I just put mine in the oven for an hour or two at 60C.

>>2985378
Hahahaha no, the motherboard wasnt an upgrade, but a fix. My stepper motors were HOT and I fucked up a potentiometer trying to adjust it to reduce voltage.

The BTT was a cheaper and better (it even lets me control driver Vref by software, which mrsicoc firmware comes with UI support for), and I also assumed it better for pressure advance and such than creality boards, which I read about them having problems due to the drivers on those boards.

Ive considered dual Z axis, bu I just got tired of dumping money on tiny upgrades instead of saving for a newer, faster, better, bigger, multimaterial modern printer.

>>2985437
How dry we talking? TPU with a managable amount of stringing that might just be from bad retraction settings? Or bone-dry immaculate CF-nylon?

>>2985441
Yeah fair enough. I doubt I'll be doing any further upgrades, besides maybe relocating my nozzle brush onto the gantry so I can clean the nozzle each layer, and maybe relocating the PSU and/or main-board so I can enclose the printer for ABS if I feel that's needed. I guess I'm waiting for INDX or something equivalent, the U1 looks good (I think pre-order prices end today) but I'd rather buy a printer that's designed to print higher temperature materials in the first place. Qidi's active cooler might be a useful addition if I ever want to print ABS/PC and TPU at the same time, though I doubt they'll be jumping into the toolchanger rat-race before Sovol and Creality stumble into it.

Time to get some more filament.
Do you really have to have a separate nozzle just for printing TPU?
Also, ASA or ABS?

>>2985455
ASA is equal or better in basically 99% of ways, but it's usually more expensive. Never heard of having to have a different nozzle, I just make sure to purge extra between material changes.

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>>2985429
I'm assuming your 14 hour print isn't a vasemode print that needs to be 0.4 wall thickness.
I'm also assuming that it's large enough to where 0.4mm wall thickness in certain features is a mechanical risk.
A 0.6 nozzle does two things. It makes your extrusion width 50% larger (where you previously had three walls you now have two walls) saving you time, and with fibered filaments it makes it less likely for a clog. The loss of detail on large-ish part is inconsequential, but it is there if you go looking for it and have a lot of features in your part that are less than the extrusion width. You can still retain your 0.2mm layer height or even 0.15 if you want.
>>2985430
I'm not entirely too convinced on the stronger prints thing, I've always though that originates from people leaving the number of perimeters the same between the various nozzle sizes leading to overall thicker or thinner walls.
>>2985431
I like the foil bags and the ezystorage latching bins with loads of desiccant.
>>2985437
microwave from the thrift store. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLfz6pbaqXY alternatively, your ammo can will need a vent to allow the humidity to leave, otherwise it does nothing. You can also just place your spool on the bed, heat it to the desired temperature, and place the filament box with the bottom cut out over the spool.

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>>2985455
If you can get good prints with ASA, you can get good prints with ABS at a fraction the cost.

>>2985456
>>2985465
ASA and ABS cost the same in my neck of the woods. The only issue with both is they stink horribly when I print with them and I lose the room for however long I print for. ASA warps horribly if you're not prepared for it too.

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>>2985466
>ASA and ABS cost the same in my neck of the woods.
hopefully it's because ASA is cheap, right?
anyway, you might notice that a kilo of either goes considerably further than a kilo of pla.

>>2985464
The 0.6 or even 0.8 mm nozzle would probably be fine for the thing I'm currently printing, there's no fine details. I'll order some for next time, I'm sure it won't be the last time I print big parts.

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>>2985469
just make sure you check your sliced model for thin walls, they tend to show in weird places. The nominal geometry will show as a transparency over the extruded lines in orca slicer, iirc prusaslicer has a similar feature.
A few weeks ago I tried to print picrel with a 0.8, sliced it, sent it to the printer, the bed heated up, laid down this square sheet, and it was marked as complete.

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>>2985431
I dry mine in a filament dryer then put them in one of those rubber sealed cereal boxes together with a hygrometer. Personally I would discourage you from doing what >>2985434 mentioned. I guess the aluminum bags for nylon filament be ok. Got no experience with those. But the normal clear plastic bags will not protect against moisture in the long run.
I use them for "other stuff" and after a year or so said stuff tends to get spongy.
Had to dry a brand new role of TPU. Even though it came sealed in one of those plastic bags, the moisture content was unacceptable.

>>2985472
Should've used them for cooking else you know there's bags for dry stuff and bags for wet stuff. You're supposed to use the later for filament.

>>2985473
never looked that much into it tbqh. I think those boxes are more comfortable to use, even though they take up more space. Thanks for the info though. Might come in handy one day.

>>2985476
>those boxes are more comfortable to use
Don't even disagree. It's just he mentioned long term storage and a vacuum sealed chamber, so i assumed he actually means long term storage. Also you can get very cheap vacuum devices from ebay/craigs from disillusioned people who just bought it as gimmick.

>>2985455
>Do you really have to have a separate nozzle just for printing TPU?
For swapping between prints? No. For multi-material prints? It makes it a lot nicer than a filament-swapping nozzle. Purging for different materials takes more than for a color change, so while it's doable on something like an AMS, it wastes a lot of filament and time.

>>2985471
>just make sure you check your sliced model for thin walls,
Related to this, printed geometry is a lot more stable when walls and other features are at least 2 perimeters wide. The open ends of a single extrusion can interact with other features in strange ways, and there can be cooling issues if it hangs in open air.

>>2985431
My printer and filament are coming on Monday so I haven't been able to test its efficacy yet, but I just bought a decent-sized Rubbermaid-type tote with a gasket and latches and one of those big desiccant packets made for gun safes and I'm hoping it's good enough. I took a printing class at the local college last term and they basically stored their filament the same way. I live in a literal desert so it's not as much of a concern for me as it is for most people though.

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any ideas what's wrong here?
new printer - Elegoo Centauri Carbon
same slicer (cura) settings, suddenly my prints fail to make nice interior
It's designed as a single line per layer, outer surface is fine, inner is "incomplete", why would it underextrude mid layer/when making sharp turn?

>>2985508
Moving too fast is my guess, either for the motion system itself or the wobbliness of that vertical print. Slowing it down or doing some input shaping tuning would help, and if it is the unsupported tall model that’s the issue, try putting the printer on a concrete paver without any rubber in between, then putting that paver atop something shock absorbent.

Also in the CAD model I’d consider adding serif-like features to your butt-joints, allowing for a bit more contact area between different parts of the single perimeter.
It would be cool if slicers could create that vase-mode infill themselves, but my Orca feature request has been thus far ignored.

>>2985508
looks too hot to me. like the inner fill bridging didn't connect because it melted and the end looks like melted styrofoam. could be nozzle temp, cooling fan lack or too slow?

I'd planar slice that end and see if it does it closer to the base and go from there.

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The 14 hour print is a success, I now have a lovely new air filter housing.

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>>2985498
Filament and accessories actually showed up today, so I can show my setup. I had this plastic shelving unit around and it was deep enough for my A1 so I'm gonna try it out, I've got doubts about the rigidity but worst case I'll get some tapcons and a masonry bit and anchor it to the wall. Now if only I didn't have to wait until Monday for my printer.

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I have something to show you, FDM friends

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>>2985543
KABLOOEY!

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>>2985545
Still can't figure out why it wants to upload those sideways.

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>tfw project reaches a point where it's kinda sorta works good enough.
>the intent of "make a test stand, and I'll eventually make a proper case for it" has gone out the window.
>janky as hell but not janky to where it causes issues.
I've just been using this thing as is for the last couple of days. all high voltage is now covered, all wires are forcefully tucked away from fans, and the stand holds everything vaguely in the right place.
>>2985508
you're trying to bridge over open air? of course that's going to sag.
>>2985535
what did you get?

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>>2985548
>just one frame below a GTX1080
for a system that's cost me less than $200 total (including filament, wiring, fans, psu, wireless dongles, and a 512gig nvme ssd)I must express some degree of admiration. >>2982669

>>2985548
>what did you get?
A1 with the AMS. Seemed like the best bet for the money and minimal fuckery.

>>2985548
that's the point in a project that i usually either do a big ol slipcase printed in vasemode to just glue onto a base, or print out a frame to put the weight on something other than companants if something gets put on top of it.

pic related is 2 variable power supplies, left was hilariously underpowered, could do MAYBE 1 amp at 24v, but to test it all i made a frame to keep the high voltage away from al the things it liked to arc onto.
right is my current psu build, full case stolen from the internet, because i KNOW this one will work, despite needing to wait for a few more parts (like a 24v supply that isn't hilariously over powered for my printer part test bench).
if left worked, i would have just plopped a shell over it and called it good enough.

although, my "make a test stand, and I'll eventually make a proper case for it" came back in the window when i was testing a hotend, and realized the wires had come out of my 24v psu and were grounding directly onto the light stand a few cm from my head, so now im making cases, and removing a lot of the metal from my workbench (hence the lampshade and all the other shit on the ground) and properly sealing anything more powerful than a 9v battery.

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>>2985554
ok NOW pic related

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>>2985555
I observe the repeating symbols.
To do a case for this requires provisions for managing airflow over the ram as well as managing pressures on either side of the main cooler, and several other things like rigid mounting points for the psu and the board itself, more wiring, etc.
I'll just live with sticking my finger into the fan anytime I miss the escape key. All 120V is already safely behind covers. only thing that can really short are the backs of the pcie pins where they're soldered to the pcb.

Elegoo centauri carbon. Printing now often results in a layer shift. Tension belts as per the elgoo wiki, slight shift remains. How to address this?

>>2985549
What is that, one of those weird AMD APUs?

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The bed annealing seems to have worked well. The annealed sample seemed somewhat easy to bend when immersed in 70C water (perhaps 10 times easier to flex than room temp PETG), but when I dunked the not annealed sample in the same water it could be bent like a ribbon. Big difference. Raising the temperature up to 90C for just ten or twenty seconds was enough to get the flexible sample to stiffen up. Though I think I’ll still boil the main parts, just to make sure they’re as good as they’re going to get.

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>>2985579
mmm, carbon fibre plastic soup

>>2985583
Actually doing some reading, it looks like annealing time is important too, so I’m going to leave this pot simmering for an hour. These studies suggest that 90C is ideal for mechanical properties, going to 100C that tends to result in a decrease relative to 90C, possibly going as low as un-annealed PLA. One paper describes how they measured crystallinity using x-rays and found it to increase up to 90C but decrease again at 100C, seems like there’s room for a follow-up study with significantly finer temperature steps, and ideally multiple process times too. My suspicion is that crystallinity can approach 100% if held at the right temperature for long enough. But heat deflection temperature still increases with increasing temperature, and that’s all I’m after, so no problems there. I’m also not sure how much of a difference the cool-down time has in the annealing process, so to be safe I’ll let it cool down in the pot of water to room temperature.
See:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142941825000492
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/348668129_Annealing_efficacy_on_PLA_Insights_on_mechanical_thermomechanical_and_crystallinity_characters
The papers are free to view, which is really nice of them. Hope my prints don't get waterlogged…

>>2985511
I'm printing LW-PLA at 30mm/s so it's already very slow
>It would be cool if slicers could create that vase-mode infill themselves
this would save me tens of hours of CAD
>>2985548
>you're trying to bridge over open air?
no? it's a nice 45° slope "infill" pattern
>>2985521
ding ding ding, seems like this is the correct answer, it was too hot - I turned on the cooling fan and now looks fine, thanks anon

>>2985591
>this would save me tens of hours of CAD
It could even do multiple “perimeters” with offset “seams” for stronger parts. Ideally you could use this for conventional parts made from really stringy materials.

>>2985591
>no?
sure looks like you are trying to bridge over open air with a tiny bit of support from the layer below, note the location of the seam. your best bet might be to increase the seam overlap but I can't recall what setting that would be. If it is a vasemode print then I don't think any of it is considered overlap or infill anyways.

>>2985579
>>2985583
>>2985587

What are you making that needs heat treatment?

>>2985597
you've never heard about overhangs? this is a standard 45° slope, half of new line sits on the line below, half is suspended "mid air", no issues

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ive turned into a mega consoomer lately since i got a full time job while still living with my parents, i was planning to buy a p2s during the june sale but seeing how this is coming out, i might just spend the extra and get this so it will be even more future proof.
when do you think this will come out? I dont follow bambulab, do they historically release new printers shortly after announcements? or like half a year after?

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>>2985621
Lately they've released them as a stealth drop the moment they reveal them.
At least, that's what they did with the P2S.

Vortex and H2D has a longer run up.

I will say, though. The idea of using a secondary extruder via a Bowden set up isn't the most appealing idea.

>>2985578
Yep.
I got one myself like a month ago.
Still designing and redesigning the case and ironing out software quirks (linux, duh)

Just pulled the trigger on the graphite bed for SV08. Taco no more.

>>2985627
Bowden shouldn't matter if you use it to print supports and such, which, I assume, is the main reason to get that printer.

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>>2985547
>every culture creates crystal skulls
Some things are just universal I guess.

>>2985627
>>2985637
what do you think the MSRP will be?

>>2985660
Probably like $1000 for the combo.
It's going to be more expensive than the P2S, but less than anything in the H series.

>>2985634
Please report back how much it actually helps. Haven't really had any taco issues since installing klicky, but not sure if i just got lucky or if compensation is actually that good if not hindered by a shitty Z probe.

>>2985611
Filament dry box. Holder for bearings on which the spool is mounted, fan+PTC heater mount, thermometer/hygrometer module housings, and a servo mount for the top of the enclosure.

>>2985676
Sure. I just ordered it, so I assume it's going to be at least a week or two before I get to it.

I actually got a better probe (Eddy Duo) months ago but procrastinated on setting it up for reasons. Maybe it alone would be enough to solve my first layer issues, but setting money on fire is fun, so here we are.

I also need to figure out a proper way of tensioning belts. The official way is using the Gates app, but looks like it got ruined by an update.

>>2985646
Don’t know what you are talking about.
This shit never happened.
And if it did happen, it has nothing to do with Indy.

>>2985646
Mine's cooler. Those injuns can suck it.

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>ATH-50 headphones
>tiny plastic part to limit the pivot breaks after 4 years of near constant use
>immediately order new ones, delivery in less than 18 hours
>wait a sec, I have a 3d printer
>design replacement part
>prototype a few times
>sleep and wake up
>finalize the design and print
>fits properly, clips on, no glue
>new headphones arrive 5 hours later
What do I write as my excuse for returning.

>>2985722
free returns means never having to make shit up

>>2985547
4cahn strips the metadata that says which way an image is rotated

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did these today ~30mm diameter

>>2985722
My brother had a pair of headphones with a very similar mechanism, I think the same piece broke as in your pair. Not Audio Technica, but the AT replacement head-straps were available from alibay for $15 or so and look basically identical. When it arrived I found that the pivot shaft that the ear cups sit on was the wrong diameter, but there were enough parts to swap around to get it working properly. If it were my own pair I'd have 3D printed, but I wasn't confident in the print's ability to remain under heavy use.

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Aw yeah.

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once i get a new printer, ive decided my old ender is basically unsellable.
Im going to convert it into a fucking machine, any pre made E3 to fucking machine mods out there?

>>2985736
That's a clean ender, man. If it prints well I could imagine you getting a few hundred for that since it's probably equivalent to a V3 KE, if not better. Though if you're ditching it because it's being a pain in the ass to maintain I can see your apprehension to selling it. Personally I'd turn it into a plotter, to escape the ink/toner printer cabal. Turning it into a router might be doable, and turning it into an EDM or ECM machine is definitely doable but less straightforward.

>>2985740
Turning it into an EDM machine is easy.
You just need to attach speakers.

>>2985736
modding an ender makes them less resalable, aint no one paying a couple hundred for this in 2026, it aint 2020 anymore, you can get a 250 dollar printer new that beats this

>>2985746
meant for>>2985740

>>2985736
Being able to print something while you're already printing something is one hell of a superpower.
It has the most value being what it was designed for - a 3D printer.

If you don't have space for it, just take it apart and store it in a drawer. You never know when you're going to need a stepper.
(You'll most likely toss the parts after a decade of them collecting dust, but it's a thought that counts)

>>2985746
I guess any target market of yours is in the narrow region between "understands that those mods are sensible and make it significantly better than stock" and "would rather put that money towards a corexy". So maybe broke college students? If you don't have the room for it, donate it to your local library or maker-space.

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>>2985735
Getting closer. Next up is basically just the wiring and the firmware. I’ll probably use an ESP32. Then I’ll stick a bunch of insulation on the outside. Once my circuitry is sorted I’ll have to design and print an enclosure for that too, but it won’t need to be heat resistant, it will sit outside the insulation.

I might still want to do a heat resistant part for holding the Bowden tube in the lid using a hydraulic fitting or two. A heat resistant cable management component seems like it might be sensible too, though I can probably just route all the wires out behind the fan bracket.

Code will probably be pretty simple actually, just open up the vent whenever the absolute humidity inside the chamber is significantly higher than outside the chamber, while PIDing the temperature control. With a rudimentary navigable menu. The rate of change in weight could be used to figure out how much moisture is left in the roll, I guess to provide an ETA on when it gets below a certain percent by weight.

>>2985722
>new headphones arrive 5 hours later
Just put them in the cupboard for when something unfixable breaks.

>>2985736
check out eroscripts or temptest3d, not many folks use nema stepper motors for fuck machines, usually its heavy duty servos.
but basically you just need one motor, belt and rail, and a mount for a rod or hole of your choice.
the hard part is getting it to move in time with your german forklift sim footage.

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It dieded.

>>2985740
I know what you actually mean but when I read "EDM machine" I just imagined it making dance music with the servo noises.

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>>2985786
Did the front fall off?

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I use to think that Blender was the most obtuse piece of shit program I've ever used, then I tried learning FreeCAD yesterday.

Anyways, what CAD programs do you use?

>>2985794
Fusion. Openscad, weirdly.
I just installed Freecad today and was going to fuck around with but got called to go fix my sister's oven.
That is not a euphemism.

>>2985793
Yeah. I never had this happen, so I assumed it's not going to. I know.
The cover fell off, broke the fan connector. The other part cooling fan also caught on something and broke the mount.
The wire harness somehow got wrapped around the hotend and broke its mount as well.

Currently contemplating whether I want to fix the stock toolhead, build one of the CN3D ones, or get the one from Sovol Zero.

>>2985795
They say Freecad is going through its glow-up stage with massive updates finally making it usable after two decades of development.

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>>2985797
Precisely what's made me want to try it out again after abandoning a test a few years ago.
>>2985796
Seems like a magnet's gone missing too, was it not built so the front wouldn't fall off?. I never understood the point of magnetic covers. It's a second of convenience for hours of bullshit like this. A more rigid connection would've just damaged the print typically.

>>2985794
I usually use FormZ Free. Non-parametric, but it's great for direct modeling. You can select and directly edit specific points, lines, surfaces, holes, etc. so editing a downloaded STL is almost as easy as having a parametric model. And construction from primitives, sweeps, lofts, etc. is enough for most of my modeling tasks. Geometry is snappable, so you can use geometric construction techniques in addition to numerical inputs.

>pic
An interesting consequence of Metric lacking a unit about the length of a foot is that people in Metric-only countries have lost heel-toe measurement as a concept.

>>2985798
Yeah, one of the magnets got ripped out.
Cover falling off is a known problem and there are workarounds, but I never bothered with them since it was reliable for me. It's almost like not suffering from an obvious design flaw is just luck and not an indication.
I admit I didn't do enough testing after building the enclosure yesterday. It was working fine, so I left the print going and went to run some errands.

>>2985799
cucked imperial units
chad russian units
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historical_Russian_units_of_measurement

>>2985794
Fusion, simply because it's what my school uses and I have a license through that. It's relatively user-friendly and the cloud stuff is really useful for my use case (moving between school workstations, my laptop, and my desktop) but sometimes it does retarded shit and there's stuff it simply can't do, like I was just working on an assignment where I had to reverse engineer something and Fusion refused to let me chamfer a surface that's chamfered IRL.

I'd use Solidworks if I had the choice, since it's the industry standard program, but switching back and forth between different CAD programs is a nightmare so I'm holding off until I'm done with classes that require Fusion.

>>2985794
I use freeCAD. It was my first mechanical CAD program and it took me a while to figure out, but I am happy with it. I wanted something that is truly free and not some test or student version of some major brand. Just in case they would try to limit the access in the future.
That's what happened to a friend of mine. Not sure what program he used, but they changed something about the free license and suddenly he could not access some of his older designs.
That's when he changed to freeCAD aswell. Of course he got a "told ya so", cause I'm a good friend.

>>2985803
They're both customary systems, and hence both have largely similar units, like inches, feet, and yards, with unit intervals based around what is convenient for people to work with in practical tasks.

>>2985796
Isn’t it pretty easy to fix with another fan, glue, and printed parts? Well, assuming you can print parts.

>>2985794
SolveSpace because I’m a brainlet. But someone released a FreeCAD 1.1 tutorial so I’ll probably get to that soon.

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It took like $70 worth of Harbor Freight hammer drill and hardware but I no longer have to worry about my printer "bench" being wobbly. I can't believe Euros have to deal with this shit every time they want to hang something.

It also won't be dark and gloomy over there anymore thanks to the $16.99 LED shop light that's probably the best deal in all of Lowe's.

>>2985736
or you could give it to some kid with an interest

>>2985794
Fusion360 obviously

>>2985825
your cable management sickens me. also if your garage door stops working well let me know.

>>2985798
>was it not built so the front wouldn't fall off?
well obviously not.
>how do you know
well because the front fell off

>>2985801
>Cover falling off is a known problem
well if the hotend shrouds not safe, then why did this one have 80,000 meters of filament run through it?

>>2985831
There's not a whole lot I can do about the cable, it barely reaches the power strip and any kind of extension would result in an even worse mess of cable and plugs. Only real option would be to replace the whole cable but that's a whole can of worms I don't want to get into.

>>2985688
Thought about eddy, but klicky PCB was still lying around from another printer and the docking gimmick just adds a unique charme.
>tensioning belts
Went with a used chromatic tuner. Works fine. Going by Prusa's blog i went a bit harder than sovol's own recommendations, made corners a bit neater.

>>2985722
You know you can return at/to the delivery without reason?

>>2985760
Cute. How high continuous temperature is that fan rated at and why the gauge?

>>2985786
>>2985796
Your electronic harness ripped off from the bowden tube. Try some zip ties instead of default wringy thingies.

>>2985833
>80,000 meters
Huh? Are you saying that I should have fixed mine a long time ago or that you have a printer with a magnetic cover that doesn't have this issue?

If the former, yes. I should have. I've known about it since day one and never bothered.

If the latter, congrats. Your printer probably has stronger magnets/lighter cover/smarter operator.

>>2985841
>harness ripped off the bowden tube
Yes, but the printer ran for months with the twisty things and only failed when enclosed.
My current theory is that the harness bent/sagged in a weird way due to being attached in a slightly different way.

I'll switch to zip ties and spend more time observing printer movements after I fix the toolhead.

>>2985558
thanks doc

>>2985821
>easy to fix
Yeah. I'm just not sure if I want to restore it to the way it came from the factory.
I'll probably post the result since this is twitter and you're all dying to hear an update.

>>2985841
Fan is rated for 90C. Was a pain to find, digi-key has such a spec to filter by, I went through the 15 remaining fans until I found a Delta Electronics model that was in stock on AliExpress. No “choice” though, for the shipping I paid it probably would have been smarter to make a digi-key order. By gauge do you mean the strain gauge? The idea is to measure weight of the spool as it dries, if nothing else to show that on a graph so I can get an idea of how quickly it’s drying out. Ideally I’d subtract the weight of the spool and figure out what percent of the spool’s mass is water, and give a countdown to when the spool will be dry enough to print. I think I’ll enjoy using a chip with the guts to do division and floating point operations, though I’d go fixed point if it’s not too much of a hassle.

>>2985860
Fair enough, I have heard those stock hot-ends are a bit shit. You could consider doing a cheap bodge fix now and chucking an INDX on when it’s available, or maybe an eventual chink knockoff.

>>2985856
im quoting the late 90s comedy sketch anon was quoting before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5qxZm_JqM

>>2985869
This is hilarious. Thank you!

I come from a different background, so many of these older memes go over my head.
Should have done a reverse image search.

>>2985872
>I come from a different background, so many of these older memes go over my head.
It's somewhat obscure outside of Australia but that specific sketch is a meme on at least both /k/ and /n/ for somewhat obvious reasons.

The duo in general is hilarious though and always the same setup, the straight-man interviewer and the stuffed shirt politician avoiding questions, they tailored it to be about whatever the issue of the day was and generally made fun of the government avoiding responsibility for whatever they'd fucked up.
They're not recent though, they retired a while back and one of them has died since.
You can find them on youtube as Clarke and Dawe.

>>2985794
Onshape, because it was free and easy to learn. I'd tried OpenSCAD and FreeCAD in the past, might give the latter another try now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing, and it's had a big update recently too.

>>2985897
>Onshape
I can't stand all of this subscription based cuckery.
There is a free tier, but they only have it to get you to invest time into learning their tool.
Once you're hooked, they remove features that you rely on and lock them behind subscription.
Subscription-based proprietary software gives corpos the power to change or take it away at any moment.

>>2985899
>There is a free tier, but they only have it to get you to invest time into learning their tool.
>Once you're hooked, they remove features that you rely on and lock them behind subscription.
First hit is always free.
There's only two industries that call their customers "users".

>>2985899
>Once you're hooked, they remove features that you rely on and lock them behind subscription.
Might work for some customers, but I just take that as a sign to move on to something free/open source instead, like taking the training wheels off a bike.

>>2985856
>Huh? Are you saying that I should have fixed mine a long time ago or that you have a printer with a magnetic cover that doesn't have this issue?
there's a lot of these printers printing around the world and I just don't want people thinking they're not built so that the front falls off.

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We'll see what happens

>>2985942
part cooling where

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>>2985952
right there,
its one of those chinky k1c extruders on a ad5m

>>2985794
FreeCAD, but keep OpenSCAD installed if you know even a tiny little bit of code. Sometimes SCAD is so much easier and faster, but only sometimes.

Enjoying my Bambu Labs A1 quite a lot :)
A lot more reliable than my amateurishly kept and modded Ender-3.

>>2985794
I'm a retard that has been saying "I really need to take time to learn CAD" for years.

So TinkerCAD.
It's good enough for basic shit if you don't value your time.
I keep using it and then beating myself up over not learning a proper tool.

>>2985959
firmware source where

>>2985794
Inventor and Solidworks, they just work.

>>2985959
For as much as the autists complain about firmware and closed gardens and whatever. (Despite none of these people ever actually looking or editing any of the printer's firmware.

It really does just work. And if something just works, it's hard to really complain about it too much.

>>2985989
Autist here.

It's not about the need to edit the firmware.
It's about the ability to audit changes between versions.

If BBL adds some anti-consumer shit like "you printer starts running like shit after X hours" to frustrate you into buying a new one, you will never know.

>>2985993
Okay. But.
1. Why would they do that?
2. Firmware updates are optional.
3. Some autist will find it sooner or later.
It just seems like schizo paranoia.

>>2985996
>1. Why would they do that?
Today I learned that some people don't know what planned obsolescence is.

>>2985999
Okay so
>Bambu degrades their printers via a firmware update
>It gets found out because 3.
>People stop buying them and instead buy one of the many other competitors

Planned obsolescence is only a factor when the biggest competitor is yourself. That is not the case for 3D printers.

>>2986002
Sure, let's put a pin in the whole planned obsolescence thing. It's not like large corporations are going to collude in order to drive sales up.
What about that stupid law about printers detecting and refusing to print gun parts?

>>2986004
>Dozens of companies across multiple countries are all going to come together and collude to drive the price of something people can put together themselves for like $150.

Come on man, this isn't realistic.

As for the law shit. I dunno. Not my country, so I don't entirely care. It's probably going to come to my country at some point. But, the reality of that is that if it passes in America, the hardware will legally be required to be on all printers and nobody is going to make special country-specific versions that have or don't have the spyware.

As is, I'm not aware of any company actually having a printer that can monitor what is being printed to ensure it's not a gun. My own personal theory is that 3D printers are going to be pretty important in future, and this is a way for the powers that be to limit the import of Chinese and Open Source printers in order to encourage domestic and domestically controlled printers.

>>2986008
It's just another "We need more surveillance to... uhh... protect children from terrorists".
They can't do analysis without adding expensive hardware to printers, so these might get more expensive as a result.
You could also expect printers to require internet connection so they can send gcode to their servers for analysis. You'll probably be paying for that, either as a mandatory subscription or government subsidies that come out of your taxes.

None of that can happen with open source firmware since the cuckery can be found and reverted or disabled.

>>2986010
Well, it's hypothetical futurism and if it's law, it doesn't matter if you're buying from Bambu or Prusa, they're all going to be required by law to have it.

Bambu doesn't have forced firmware updates, nor the hardware to do it, even if they could somehow do it via a firmware update. So, it's not like Bambu is any "Worse" than any other printer for this.

>>2986002
>People stop buying them and instead buy one of the many other competitors
LOL. The fuckery in inject printers is exactly why I switched to Brother, but if they haven't done the same thing they are very close to it:

https://www.howtogeek.com/brother-printer-third-party-ink-not-blocked/

There are no ethics here, every corporation plays the same game. If the percentage of income gained is greater than the loss of income from dissatisfied customers they will absolutely do this.

>>2986014
>Boomer screaming about how he knows what he got and he's never shopping here again.
>Against a completely different company based in an entirely different country.

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>change one thing
>fixes issue
>something else weird and utterly minor happens
Oh my GOD, these fucking things.
My dumb ass wants to buy a tool changer too ."One extruder isn't giving me enough grief. Let's put four of them on the fucking thing."

Just had an issue with shit knocking for WHATEVER fucking reason, so I enabled avoid crossing walls. Did it solve it? Maybe. But I look over at the current print and half-way done I see these faint little vertical bands when the light shines on the silk a certain way. Is it the filament? Is it the machine? Is it the thing the machine is on? Is it the plate? DID IT ALWAYS FUCKING DO THIS AND I'M JUST NOW NOTICING?!

>>2986037
probably knocking the strings off when it hit the walls.

>>2986040
It isn't stringing at all. It's a regular, banded pattern that looks like faint pinstripes running through the silk's natural sheen.

>>2985985
Never.
But don't worry, all other printers will go closed source as well.

>>2986042
>>2986037
It's the fucking stand. I've got the stupid thing on an aquarium stand and it wobbles a bit. You'd think the ad5x's vibration calibration would fix that, but I've been printing and selling these fucking houses for months without noticing.
The wild thing is it's ONLY on these houses. It doesn't show up on any of the balls or models I've done.

Anyone get an ender 5 max. Im considering getting this or the qidi max 4. I really want the full 400mm3 but I could probably make due with 390mm. The main advantage of the max tho is that I would probably have an easier time modding it to fix an indx. But theres almost no info on the max which makes it hard to know what Im getting into.
The main advan

>>2986054
the qidi max 4 looks half-baked, see ygk3d's review
i haven't seen any actually well made corexy printers larger than 350mm^3, which is where the halfway-decent sv08 and k2 plus sit
i haven't heard anything about the ender 5 max at all, i'd definitely want to see some reviews

>>2986061
Ive seen his review but honestly it looks like a lot of whining/grifting about minor things. But my perspective is biased because Ive been using a klipperized ender 5 plus which is complete shit and I have to deal with something breaking ever 5 prints. Planned on making it a merc but its expensive compared to getting a new printer.

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We printin', boys.

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>>2986070
First print of my own design, holder for micrometer calibration standards.

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>>2986071
...but you said we're printing boys

X2D got announced.
https://bambulab.com/en/x2d

Pretty competitive price. But, they're very evasive about how good at printing the second bowden-fed nozzle is. And kinda just say "You can use it for supports and other things".

Very competitive pricing. Only $100 more than the P2S and you get an active heater and better venting.

Also build volume is reduced in dual-nozzle printing mode.
Sucks if you recently bought a P2S, I guess, but the Bowden-fed set up is pretty jank and doesn't seem overly useful.

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Fuck

I think the part just left the chat, I noticed the raft didn't look right when the print started but hoped it'd be OK since I've printed this 3 times on other printers. It was going way nicer than on the clapped out Ender 5s I'd used before too. Just started another try with the cool super tack plate or whatever it's called, hopefully it sticks better there.

>>2986113
Cool plate is nice, just make sure you've set the plate in the slicer, otherwise it'll all go horribly wrong.

>>2986073
No, he said we're printin' boys.
I know I am, aren't you?

>>2986115
Oh fuck, I set it for the last print I did (the fail was actually last night and I ran something else after it) but forgot to change it when I started this print. Good call, I fixed it and restarted.

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>>2986073
>>2986117
you wouldn't download a boykisser would you?

>>2986120
I am a boy kisser

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I have lost my patience with my adventurer 3. Looking to upgrade to something bigger, faster, and capable of changing filaments. What should I get? I'd really like for it to be open-source (in the future if not immediately), but Prusa is twice the price of something like the Creality Sparkx i7. It seems like the Sparkx limits the speed if you don't use their official filament. Absolutely fucking infuriating.

>>2985736
Enders are still good for shit that prints slow, like PETG. You can print a few of those vase mode/custom gcode lampshades and try selling them to boomers, see if it can pay itself off.

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I have a need for a vertically printed fan shell to fit a location akin to picrel. The simple solution is to print the fan grille separately, but I'm wondering if there are any designs that work in this orientation.
shell is 2.4 thick, printed with a 0.8 nozzle.
I'm not entirely opposed to hexagons, but I do find them overused.

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What the fuck is the difference between these? They all cost $399. Which one should I get?

>>2986131
Can't you just print vertical lines in there? No need to make it fancy

>>2986131
Why wouldn't a simple diamond lattice grille work? Or hexagonal? Ignore the retard that said vertical lines. They wouldn't have enough rigidity unless you made them really thick, which would block airflow.

>>2986131
columns of opposing triangles would probaby be easy for any printer.

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>>2986134
>>2986139
Last time I tried hexagons they came out looking like stars of david, I'm not willing to risk it on something this large and that I'll find myself looking at often. I want to actually like the finished product. I guess I can probably live with copying the lattice in >>2985075.

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I did a thing. What you all think? I am printing out a black one to paint right now.

>>2986152
Dry your filament.

>>2986154
What was the symptom you saw that made you comment on that?

>>2986152
>to paint
is that a euphemism?

>>2986152
>What you all think?
I think you should consider your seam settings, otherwise it looks really nice.

>>2984660
Where did anon get the cute lizard model? Left middle picture or A2 in the grid

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>>2986160
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1499526-mini-cyclura-iguana-figurine-keychain
only place that I could find it.
>get up to take a piss
>post failed, captcha expired.
While I certainly appreciate the uptick in quality on certain boards generals, good lord is it also pissing me off.

>>2986155
Little zits and blemishes at every extrusion end. That appears to be silk PLA, which should not be difficult to tune in that regard... unless it's wet, in which case the moisture puffs it up a little and causes overextrusion/ooze that causes blemishes whenever the printer pauses the flow. Even PLA needs to be dry for good aesthetics (vase mode excepted).

Like the other anon mentioned, seam setting can use work too, but that's secondary to getting the filament working properly. Learn to manually paint seams to hide them. Maybe try scarf seams. Those can be hit or miss, but they may help too.

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>>2986110
and they released color mixing today for all BL printers with dual nozzles

>>2986161
thanks and yea the mods are doing something good finally, it was getting bad everywhere on 4chan
>>2986162
ok thanks for the feedback, I had that spool in a vacuum sealed bag but it lost its vacuum over time. I had 5 or 6 big desiccants with it. I didn't bother drying it out before attempting to use the my mothballed printer after 3 years of hibernation. All things considered I am pleased with it and appreciate the keen eye and constructive criticism. I have a dryer so how long do i need to use it? Like I said its been in storage for 3 years.

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>tfw 3d printing is making m.2 ssds cheap again.
2230, 2242, etc.
Picked up a 256gig to use as boot drive in an htpc for $20.
>>2986110
It's incredibly tempting, interface layers is a thing I've been bitching and moaning for ages now.
I still can't go back to having a sub 330x330 bed though.
>>2986164
nta. The zits could also be from incorrect retraction tuning, zhop, or general overhang shennanigans. If that's silk pla then I think it might be a profile setting and the standard black one will probably be fine. I've always found silk anything to just be weird and never worth bothering.

>>2986126
>>2986132
Anycubic Kobra X looks pretty good.

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Success! Printing it inverted with trees was the answer. Quality difference between it (blue) and the Ender at school last term (grey) is wild.

>>2986164
>I had that spool in a vacuum sealed bag but it lost its vacuum over time. I had 5 or 6 big desiccants with it.
Not nearly good enough for long-term storage. Only the metal-lined manufacturer bags can actually keep moisture out well enough to reliably have the filament be dry when you get it, and desiccant can only absorb a certain amount of water. Silica gel in particular can only absorb a small part of its capacity before it allows high enough humidity to degrade the performance of many kinds of filament. Long-term dry storage takes something like a pressure-tight box with bulk desiccant, preferably with a hygrometer to let you know when the silica gel needs regeneration (most cheap hygrometers don't reliably measure low humidity levels for this). A good setup can keep filament dry on the order of a year or so without attention

>I have a dryer so how long do i need to use it? Like I said its been in storage for 3 years.
Time of exposure is less relevant than how wet it actually is. For silk PLA, I'd recommend starting with 50C for about 4 hours. If you have a scale that can resolve grams, you can measure it periodically to see when it stops losing significant weight, but a test print to check that it prints fine can work too. Otherwise just let it dry overnight and not worry about it, if you don't mind running the dryer longer than necessary.

>>2986165
>If that's silk pla then I think it might be a profile setting and the standard black one will probably be fine.
I've found regular PLA mechanical settings to be fine, but I run a direct drive extruder. Bowdens would be more sensitive.

>I've always found silk anything to just be weird and never worth bothering.
Thermal settings are finicky in my experience. It's really prone to heat creep, and getting the best appearance requires running it at the cool end of its range, which reduces its already terrible mechanical properties. But it looks great. Sometimes that's the overriding concern.

Damn all this talk about multihead printers makes me want to upgrade. What are the options in 2026? And is it true that you can use a dual for water soluble supports so it doesn't wreck your fingers?

Got a Neptune 3 Max for reference.

t. latest silk print poster

>>2986165
>It's incredibly tempting
I'm in a similar boat, kind of.
It'd be a nice upgrade over my P1S, but it just seems like a such a half-measure that it doesn't quite do what I want, and I'd be better off just saving up for a H2D, U1 or waiting for them to come up with a better solution.

It feels like a slightly frustrating time to buy a printer as nobody has quite yet come up with a multi-material printer that solves all the big issues, but each issue is solved separately by a different printer, yet nobody can put it all together.

>>2986181
What do you regard as all the big issues?

>>2986183
Basically it all comes down to printing time, waste and limitations.
H2D allows for like 24 different materials, but uses nozzle swapping and filament has to be ran up and down the feed tubes by the AMS which adds significant printing time.
U1 has each toolhead be a separate element and swaps via changing the toolhead as required. This is faster and less wasteful, but limited to 4 materials, with each spool mounted to the outside of the printer and then running down it's own feed tube. Also the U1 is semi-enclosed and only really designed to print PLA and PETG.

Then there's something like Prusa with the INDX which is consistently vaporware and will almost certainly be very expensive if it comes.

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Anyone know what would cause these wavy lines on flat surfaces in my print? Started printing with PETG and I can't remember if I had this issue with PLA. I dont print stuff that often.
I was messing around with flow rate and temp and z offset calibration tests and nothing changed really. I have 3 top layers and adaptive cubic infil. But I'll have the same wavy lines even on a flat 3 layer calibration print.
Its smooth to the touch and not actually bumpy.

>>2986201
I was going to say infill but you said it happens on 3 layer calibration prints.
Check the preview in your slicer, what does it look like?

>>2986202
The slicer looked fine to me, I dont know what exactly I should be looking out for, but nothing abnormal when going by step by step.
I'm using orcaslicer if that makes a difference and have a sovol sv06 ace plus

>>2986204
Show a picture of the flat 3 layer print.
Also show a screenshot of the preview with the tool lines.

>>2986184
>INDX which is consistently vaporware
It's pretty entertaining watching their own fanboys calling them out by now, especially with the no cables video recently. Thankfully i got very limited use for multimaterial.

>hey anon have you seen the latest Bambu?
>no, what did they release?
>sub $1k dual nozzle with temperature controlled chamber
>gotta check /3dpg/
>>2986165
>It's incredibly tempting
Man I'm so tempted too. I want to upgrade from my bedslinger so much, but at this point I know what I want since I have experience with a professional machine at work, and Bambu's standard plate size feels limiting. Also
>2026
>Bowden
...man

By the way, what's the deal with the secondary nozzle being marketed mainly for supports?

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>>2986209
Bowden's perfectly fine if all it has to ever do is lay a layer or two of petg/pla/pva at the interfaces between supports.
It's light years ahead of what I often do which insert a pause and sharpie in the support interface on large flat areas.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBGl4i668Tg
unrelated, but seriously, fuck moisture in fibered filaments. It can turn a quick print into several hours maybe days unless you sacrifice a brand new spool.

>>2986147
That's not how you do a fucking hexagonal grille. What the fuck am I looking at? JUST DO A REGULAR HEXAGONAL MESH! LIKE YOU HAVE ON YOUR COMPUTER!

>>2986209
>he secondary nozzle being marketed mainly for supports?
I think there are water soluble filament you can use for that.

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>>2986209

>>2986152
I put a clear coat on this. It really made the mini pop and smoothed and fixed the scratches from the support removal. It looks even better now.

Do I get an H2C so I can switch nozzles remotely. An H2D cause it is cheaper. Or bite the bullet with an X2D and smaller bed even though I already have a P1S with a chamber heater?

Or say fuck it and get a Ratrig.

Primary use case is nylon or abs parts.

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im going to do it unless someone convinces me otherwise, I dont plan to print useless multi colored nick nacks
what else should I buy with the x2d?

>>2986256
a standalone dryer, single spool. Most of the common support filaments like petg and pva love to absorb moisture, and I think the second hotend doesn't feed from the ams iirc.

>>2986256
>>2986263
I second geting the filament dryer. For me it's had a small but noticable impact on the quality of my prints, a really good investment for the price.

>>2986256
Tack plate, or the ones from Biqu are nice.

>>2986265
>buy printer specialized for engineering filament
>prints petg and pla on it.
can someone explain this behaviour to me?

>>2986212
I knew they did filaments with silk and matte effects, but I've never seen a filament that automatically prints with fuzzy-skin!

>>2986221
They're bad, they absorb moisture from the atmosphere very quickly, and don't stick to prints very well. I'd suggest that PVB filament is better for dissolvable supports (dissolves in IPA), apparently it prints quite nicely, but I've never used it so I'm just guessing. Kinda expensive per roll too.

>>2986266
PLA is an engineering material. If you anneal it.

>>2986266
You're sometimes going to want to print PLA.
Maybe it's a prototype. Maybe it's just something you find PLA's properties to be ideal for.
And if you're serious about printing, you don't want a bed that's contaminated by multiple different materials. So having a dedicated PLA plate is nice.

>>2986201
IMO it looks like resonance in the left-right direction (as that image is oriented) such that the print head speeds up and slows down at a certain frequency when it should be doing a smooth movement. This results in areas of more and areas of less plastic buildup than desired. Does your printer have input shaping? If so, you might tweak the settings.

>>2986212
>It can turn a quick print into several hours maybe days unless you sacrifice a brand new spool.
The idea of a dry storage box is that you can grab dry filament from it and print right away without needing to dry it first. You can even get a printing drybox which keeps the spool dry as you print from it.

>>2986269
>PLA is an engineering material. If you anneal it.
Any material is an engineering material if you do calculations on it.

>>2986266
god forbid someone uses one machine for multiple purposes...

>>2986275
How anti-consumerist of you.

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>>2986273
Some filaments will draw humidity out of the desiccant rather than the other way around. I have literal kilos of desiccant from expired breather desiccant breather-filters dried in an industrial nylon dryer and have had filaments go bad in storage. High fiber content filaments, particularly core units, will go bad in days to maybe even hours, even inside of an eibos set to maintain a constant 10% rh. Thankfully the saving grace is that the outer windings are so aggressive in absorbing moisture that they keep the inner loops dry.
>>2986275
You can print pla on the included ultem plate perfectly fine. I can't personally attest to the whole filament contamination bit beyond personal experience, but at least with abs-nylon-pla-pet-polycarb my issues have been more related to filament sticking too well rather than the other way around.
I've also never gotten a single decent print out of petg, so take shit with a grain of salt.

>>2986277
>Some filaments will draw humidity out of the desiccant rather than the other way around.
Depends on the desiccant. Silica gel is weaksauce but sufficient for most filaments. Molecular sieve can get air under 0.1% RH, and calcium oxide is way beyond that. A yardstick for how strong a desiccant is is how hot you have to bake it to regenerate it (a similar consideration for how hot you have to bake filament to dry it). Silica gel is usually ~120C. ~250C is common for molecular sieve, while ~400C is a practical minimum for calcium oxide. Nice setup there. Very similar to mine.

>an eibos set to maintain a constant 10% rh
10% RH at 60C is the same amount of water in the air as 85% RH at 20C. A heated dryer works by driving the water out of the filament by raising its vapor pressure and reducing the chemical bonding with the plastic. Desiccant keeps it dry by removing the water from the air so water can't get at the plastic.

>>2986285
ok.
For comparison, ABS I just leave out in the open, not giving a single solitary fuck about and it's never had a moisture problem. But the moment fibers are introduced, it's either 2-3 hours of drying before and during printing, or mandatory fuzzy skin+boogers. I want to like core fiber filaments, they're just proving to be an absolute pain.