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File: 1763318330490698.jpg (3.39 MB, 3264x3264)
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Last Thread: >>2980187
Alright Prints Edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#381
>>
I'm thinking of buying a chamber heater for my P1S. Any suggested brands? Should I go for something that draws power internally, or something that has it's own power supply that needs to be plugged in externally?
>>
>>2984675
We have brand products for chamber heaters now?
>>
man this shit is black magic sometimes
>trying to print some vertical print in place hinges
>6mm hinge doesn't give me any warning but fuses together badly
>10mm get a warning about floating geometry from the slicer
>but they print perfectly
same overhang angles, same offset, just more area, go figure
>>
>>2984683
>what are perimeter and line widths.
>>
>>2984684
but the mating surfaces that can get stuck are nested cones so the larger cone should contain an smaller cone identical to the first one that should print the same way and get stuck the same way
>>
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>>2984687
you can typically get away with tighter tolerances on larger parts as the slicer is much more likely to be able to accurately path an extrusion that fits the geometry.
orca slicer has a setting in the preview tab where it lets you overlay actual geomtry onto a slightly transparent nominal.
>>
I just got a SOVL6 Plus Ace. They're a chinky brand, but their build quality isn't terrible. I've been using OrcaSlicer and I've gotten some alright prints so far, but I can't really find any real, helpful information about the printer, or settings that would be helpful. I was hoping someone on here could give me some insight as to whether I bought a piece of shit, or if my poor choices are redeemable.
>>
>>2984743
It's an alright PLA pusher. Too big for a bedslinger in my opinion.
If you can't describe what's exactly bothering you about it, there's not much help we can offer.
>>
Does PLA hold sharpie well? I have some fine details that are too small for a paintbrush or spray paint
>>
>>2984634
>cpap has a bit of lag on powering on to actually cooling
I was under the opposite impression, that by using a servo valve you could turn the airflow on and off far faster than a fan ramping up and down.

>>2984636
I dunno about you guys, but I prefer to flush after wiping.

>>2984743
You kinda fucked up, but if you don’t have any problems with the hardware then no problem. It’s when you have to contact support that you have trouble. Print some calibration prints so you can articulate which parts you’d like to improve.
>>
>>2984683
Anyone had an issue where freecad will produce a model that works perfectly inside freecad, but once exported it generates lots of artifacts on orcaslicer?
>>
>>2984756
You can get some ultra fine "detail brushes" that should run it smaller than a sharpie.
>>
>>2984782
Guess I can check out michaels for that, sounds pricey
>>
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Printed an enclosure for my mSATA adaptor board to replace my Thinkpad X301's ancient 1.8" SSD. It actually snaps together snugly and fits perfectly in the laptop, but the PCB doesn't quite fit because I didn't measure it perfectly. Nothing a bit of sanding can't fix though, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
>>
>>2984759
>I was under the opposite impression
the issue is that the air takes time to go down the tube.
it doesn't take a long time, but its a noticeable issue, there are settings in some slicers to start the fan up early, but its a hassle.
>>
>>2984785
Got a 12 piece set off amazon for like 10 bucks.
>>
>>2984786
noice. I still have picrel knocking about where I replaced the disc drive with an ssd on one almost 13 years ago now.
>>
>>2984681
They all seem to be cheap Chinese shit, but I figured since I'm about to plug in something directly to the printer's power supply I may see if there's something reliable and not just dodge chink electronics.
>>
>>2984795
Drop a link dude
>>
>extruder motor barely crashes into vertical extrusions
>can fix it by moving the extruder forwards slightly
>the ptfe tube is no longer vertical
this is fine
>>
>>2984795
12 pc miniature brushes pacocoast. Just search that and it'll pop.
>>
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Getting into this hobby has been a blast. It's like being a cartoon villain, using a shrink ray to steal Mt. Rushmore or something stupid.
Pretty sure this glow in the dark stuff is trashing this nozzle, as I'm getting strings for the first time with this model where the supports meet. Got a full set of hardened steel ones coming just to be safe.
>>
>>2984842
Glow in the dark stuff is pretty abrasive. Generally don't want to use it without a hardened nozzle.
>>
>>2984842
>>2984874
i have a copper with SiC tip, great heat transfer while being almost indestructable
>>
I got a golf club head printed in steel and it turned out great, but I think the surface is kinda porous because just the oil from my hands leaves a mark, and I don't think thats great for resisting rust and grass stains. Was thinking I'd polish it up and maybe hit it with some ferric chloride for a neat colour, but do you know anything that would like, seal it?
>>
>>2984986
resin
>>
Is there any cad program on linux that lets you create and comprehensively edit text in a sketch? Both freecad and onshape are awful for it, and ive been painfully getting by using orcaslicer's emboss feature
>>
>>2985006
I use inkscape to write whatever I want, convert object to path, export that as svg, import it into freecad, convert it to sketch and then pad it out or pocket it as needed.
>>
I printed pa6-cf20. It grew a lot and no longer fits in the hole I want to put it in. If I anneal, will it shrink back to print size permanently? Is shrinking it in the slicer the better option if annealing isn't beneficial?
>>
>>2984986
If it needs to be tough, an electroplate might fill in those gaps enough. Chrome probably. Otherwise a cold blue might be enough for stain resistance.
>>
>>2985006
>edit in a sketch
Wdym? Texts should be done in draft workbench, so you may still edit them later on. Or do you actually want a sketch to fiddle with specific letters?

>>2985018
It's nylon. As long as there's moisture in the air it will always grow a certain degree. See how far you can anneal it, put it in your hole and let it stay there.
>>
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>TFW TMC2209 successor released two years ago
Has no one ever talked about this? I somehow completely missed it.
>>
>>2985018
>>2985057
Please don't put 3d printed stuff in your hole.
>>
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learning 3D printing is fun
modeled this small(5cm) thingie from scratch and printed it to test some features I want to use in a larger project
>print in place conical hinges work perfectly
>latch works just fine though I gave it a little too much slack out of abundance of caution
>lattice printed fine if a little ugly, but no aesthetic considerations were made this time
buying a 3D printer was a much more enjoyable investment than anticipated
>>
>>2985058
because the conversation is all about multicolor flexidragons.
Some companies are looking to implement odrive/steppers with encoders but the cost of a failed print to the customer is nill compared to the cost of implementation.
>>
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>>2985075
>ignores the top row of half diamonds
learn to fucking pattern bro
>>
>>2985006
fusion360 directly edit sketch in timeline text yes
>>
>>2985087
it's clearly on purpose to have less supports
you seem not very bright
>>
>>2985090
>done for less supports.
>printed sideways on.
anon...
>>
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Is it possible to eliminate individual toolpaths?
The pic related blue lines will not work as a bridge, and I don't want to use supports for two fucking lines.
>>
>>2985095
Nevermind, figured it out with a a height range layer height modifier.
>>
>3D print a design.
>Screw thread to connect two aprts.
>Literally never works properly

I don't get it.
>>
>>2985058
You can buy plug in place 2226 modules since almost the same time. It's on you, anon. That said they're not that special besides higher voltage range and chip specific cooling.

>>2985083
I believe when i see it. A TMC4671 is still 15bucks a pop, plus encoder, mosfet and proper break resistor. We'll rather see full servo bldc implementations at that point.
>>
>>2984745
>>2984759

I appreciate the help, guys. I'm not having too much trouble, I'm just having a bit of buyers remorse, because the Bambu's look so fuckin clean. One question though, too big for a bed slinger? Is there anyway I can correct any problems that may arise?
>>
>>2985124
Larger bed means heavier bed means slower max Y movement. It's the most basic story why everyone jumped onto cube shaped printers. Doesn't matter for a beginner though, just stick with the recommended settings and focus on cad/modelling and slicing.
>>
>>2985091
Not with that hinge shape it wasn’t. Look at the layer lines, it was printed in the orientation it’s photographed in. That said, bridging shouldn’t have any issue with those flat half-diamond tops.

>>2985105
4671s are nice to have for sure, but a low-ish cost MCU like an ESP32S2 can do FOC for cheaper.
>servo BLDC
Yeah doesn’t really make sense using stepper motors with closed loop feedback. Switched reluctance motors would be more temperature resistant than permanent magnet motors, so might be a good fit for extruder motors in a heated chamber.
>>
>>2985148
>ESP32S2
Hilariously enough, that's the one without MPWM. Banter aside, i don't see that viable for mass scale, flashing and support will be hell. Bambu will copy Analog Devices and flood the market with a good price for incomparable tech. Just like DJI did. Frankly, i'm surprised they didn't already do so.
>>
>>2985158
Oh yeah it also has only one core, basically an improved 8266. Meant the S3, since it gets vector instructions, at least the SimpleFOC project recommends it over everything bar the Teensy 4.x and STM32H7 that cost significantly more. But even the base-level ESP32 is pretty good. Depending on the loop speed requirements, you could potentially run multiple motor FOC loops off one MCU.
>flashing
You can get chips programmed at the PCB fab house, but it would be more robust if you let your printer’s mainboard flash them directly, allowing for motor drive firmware updates. With an ESP32-like chip, the positional communication and flashing could both be done via the same UART pins, no bootloader needed, you’d just need an extra GPIO pin for the reset/boot pin on each slave MCU. I think most MCUs can communicate in normal operation over their ICSP pins so long as they’re not a single-wire protocol like DebugWire or UPDI or whatever the CH32V003 uses.

Though I would like to see TMC4671 equivalents hit the market, don't suppose you know of any?
>>
>>2984790
>the issue is that the air takes time to go down the tube.
Which is why, as anon mentioned, some setups use a valve to either direct the always-on CPAP-driven air either at the print or away, with the switch as fast as the valve can actuate.
>>
>>2984986
>I think the surface is kinda porous because just the oil from my hands leaves a mark
Oil from hands leaves a mark on clean metal in general.

>I don't think thats great for resisting rust and grass stains
Is there a porosity spec given by the metal printing service? Do you know the specific alloy?

>Was thinking I'd polish it up and maybe hit it with some ferric chloride for a neat colour, but do you know anything that would like, seal it?
Chlorides are generally corrosive. You might consider nickel plating it. Unlike chrome, that shouldn't need underlayers for compatibility.
>>
>>2985101
Learn tolerances.



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