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>>2988817
turns out the extruder decided it wanted to take the rest of the day off. i thought the nozzle was clogged but it was extruding just fine once i put a fresh length of filament in it and was able to get some bite on it. i think i might have my drying box temp set too high and the drive gear in the extruder is shearing off the bits its trying to get a purchase on.

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>>2988818
Fuck you, beat me by...quite a bit actually.

>>2988822
I just did it because although we weren't in any real danger of falling off no one spoke up that they were baking so I took it upon myself. Yours is more neat looking though if its any consolation. And mine is actually 1/3 of yours anyways.

>>2988823
It's fine, I was paying you a compliment in the most passive-aggressive way I could.
I might have made it first but I took 20 minutes to find just the right couple of fonts to make the text just this side of unreadable.

I inferred a thread tradition of filling it with posts from the last thread.

>>2988827
I just took a ss of the font and asked the ai to give me a free one. And added a drop shadow in gimp. I did however have to edit the kerning spacing since the default overlapped and was ugly. Is it a tradition for the font to be somewhat "illegible"?

aww damn looking at the archive this is thread #382

>>2988830
>Is it a tradition for the font to be somewhat "illegible"?
I don't know, these threads last so long that this is only the third one I've been in for and I certainly never bothered going back to check.
The font in the last one was less than ideal though so it seemed like there was some kind of tradition of weird ass-fonts.

>>2988834
Noted

>>2988820
my sunlu dryer turns off automatically

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Clapped out Ender 3 gang gang

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No longer sticky.
>>2988831
We are off by more than that, don't think it's the first time we forget to increase the count.

>>2988842
my 3dmouse isnt sticky? What is that from? I have one 1/10th that size I use everywhere. Nice print thogh.
And also noted, what thread number are we at? I added +2 to the last thread that was numbered. It looked like a pretty consistent OP up until a couple of the last threads.

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>>2988845
Up until the last couple of years the soft touch coating that they used would suddenly turn into a very unpleasant sticky goo. It was an issue that logitech refused to cover under warranty on a $300 peripheral.

>>2988848
wait what? I thought we were talking about 3dconnexion devices? Whats the comment about Logitech? Does Logi make 3dconn? Or was that just an aside on the industry's take on it.

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3D design is a bit difficult especially when I have no clue wtf I'm doing
Spent Basically 6 hours trying to make a custom case but then realised a flaw, not going to be able to put the camera in the case without severe difficulty, I don't think theres a way I can make a case that fits correctly to this. Also there's more to go on top of the case (antenna and custom board)
Took me a few hours just to make a very rough camera model. and then just boolean it out of a block
Is there a way to make this secure without having to do like a two part thing with screws?

>>2988854
>Took me a few hours just to make a very rough camera model. and then just boolean it out of a block
That's.... one way of doing it? I guess...
>Is there a way to make this secure without having to do like a two part thing with screws?
Depending on the material, you can lean on its flexibility and make it a snap fit.

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>>2988849
Logitech is the parent company.
The spray on rubber decomposes over time, even if you don't use it. Have a look on ebay at the used units and you'll see this is all happening to them. Last I knew they were still using the same ruberized finish as of 2024. It literally starts rotting.
I don't really know what I'm going to do with a second one, but it was an alright distraction.
Upside to this, is that you could pick these nasty ones up for like $50 and do the picrel vinyl wrap and 3d printed knob to them.

>>2988856
What are other ways of doing it? I saw some guide that you basically do an outline of the model (which is really complex to do for some reason, there's no straightforward way to just get the entire outside geometry and just offset by 1 or 2 mm)
and then create like a profile around the thing but it kept shitting itself going around corners so gave up on that method.
>Depending on the material, you can lean on its flexibility and make it a snap fit.
I assume TPU for that then? Never worked with it before

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>>2988857
>Logitech is the parent company.
Didn't know that, and that makes a lot of sense. It does have the premium feel of a Logi device. Maybe even a bit more even.
I love mine so much, navigating in 3d space is so much easier. And making turntable videos in blender manually with OBS is so much quicker. Once you get the hang of it, its like have a super power in 3d programs. I use it in my left hand while I use my mouse to edit mesh in my right.

>>2988860
If I'm understanding it correctly, you just want to enclose the entire camera (the the left) while having some holes for cables you want to connect to it. You don't need to closely follow the exact shape of the camera to do that, in fact following it too closely probably won't even work because the printed piece might shrink as it cools anyway.
You need to support it on all 3 axes, and enclose the rest. A literal block with holes on the biggest faces and some tabs to keep the camera centred and secure would do and that's a plenty simple shape to model. The holes are easy to do too.
I generally model the part I want to make. If I model the part I need that to interact with I do it only for assembly purposes. If I need to do something like you're doing, I take pictures of the part and import those pictures as a canvas for the CAD software (or just measure it all around and model based on those measurements).
>there's no straightforward way to just get the entire outside geometry and just offset by 1 or 2 mm
On FreeCAD, it's called "offset", you find it on the sketch workbench.
>TPU
Nah, you can do it with ABS or even PLA. Check out models for flexible vases that are made with rigid filament, it's all in understanding the material. They can bend a little bit and if you add a lot of small features to bend, you get that that little bit of flexibility adding up real quick.

metal at home:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOD02TuzLl8
stainless steel
tool steel
alloys
brass (this is interesting since it offgasses poison and is dangerous to smelt at home)

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>>2988862
Yep pretty much, just need to make an enclosure at the top as well to connect this board and antenna to.
And yeah having a cable run down along the side of it.
The only support this thing is going to have is a 1/4" camera mount, so basically 2-2.5mm of frame will only be holding it at the bottom, hopefully that will be enough.
>just measure it all around and model based on those measurements
Yeah this is pretty much what I did, though the camera itself has some weird curves and shit that made it a bit difficult and don't know if it would print flush
>you find it on the sketch workbench
Yeah but I wanted to do an offset say on after I had done all the padding and profiles etc, I couldn't find a simple way to just get the finished shape and just get that geometry because of all the weird cuts, it didn't have a proper edge on the sides if that makes any sense.
>you can do it with ABS or even PLA
hmm interesting, I'll have to look into that, all I have at the moment is PETG and PLA
Think I'll just have to scrap the model I made and replan this from scratch again, don't know how to salvage my current model and make it usable. Gonna be a fun night

>>2988880
>though the camera itself has some weird curves and shit
Print yourself a fillet gauge. Comes in handy a lot. You can find the models on the internets.
>PETG
That's perfect for this. PETG has more natural flexibility than ABS and PLA while still being solid unlike TPU (and much easier to print than TPU too).

>>2988857
You can remove sticky rubber with label remover
(one with lemon/orange scent) or lemon oil and some scrubbing.
>you could pick these nasty ones up for like $50
They're like at least 200$ used where i live lol.

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I heard that metallic PLA filaments wreck nozzles quite quickly. I'm still using a stock 0.4 nozzle on my P1S and bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle for my A1 Mini. Should I expect any excessive wear on those nozzles when printing with filaments like eSUN PLA+ metallic?

>>2988883
>Print yourself a fillet gauge
This does look very handy, will be printing one for sure, thanking anon
>PETG has more natural flexibility
But what does this mean though? doesn't seem very flexible in the sense I can just pop something in

>>2988890
>doesn't seem very flexible in the sense I can just pop something in
I've printed a phone case out of petg and it's felixble enough to pop a phone in and out of. Don't know how it'd go when it's very thick though.

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>>2988890
It means it has a larger limit of elastic deformation. Basically, you can bend and flex it more before it fails (cracks or breaks). If you need things to snap together, that's what you want. It will stretch or compress a little and then go back to its original shape without breaking. Pic related, it means the elastic region is larger. For most filaments, the plastic region is pretty much non existent and it just fails as soon as it reaches it. Stress is the force you apply, strain is how much it deforms.
Those vases I mentioned before amplify this by having lots of gaps that act as strain relief and break the distribution of that stress you put on the part when bending it. Each part bends just a little bit instead of having to take all the strain and so it doesn't break.

Has anybody ever tried a weave pattern with 3D printing? I think it could be somewhat possible with non-planar slicing software.

>>2988910
There's a weave top layer pattern for color being developed.

>>2988912
Interesting. I was thinking monoilament/monocolor but there must be a way to do it.

>>2988910
there are tons of knit looking slop. I think 3d mesh/chainmail/fabric is the closest thing to weaving as it has a top and bottom.

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>>2988915
I don't want knit knotting slop. I want to know if it's possible with a 3D printer to make an actual weave from the filament itself. Obviously that's not going to be possible with planar slicing tho...

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I broke this little shit on the hotend teflon plug thing while trying to clean the nozzle.
Anyone know what I search for to find a replacement?

The bowden tube keeps popping out now and spewing filament everywhere and it gets all kinked and run over by the hotend so I can't even use it again.

>>2988918
even without planar slicing you would need to manipulate the cross threads out of the way. you could do it with a 3D pen but it's about as useful as braiding uncooked spaghetti

now making a loom with a 3d printer would be cool

>>2988919
what printer? Solid chance its a hotend specific spring clip type thing.

>>2988922
Anycubic Kobra Max

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>>2988922
>Solid chance its a hotend specific spring clip type thing.
It was originally a ring that went around the bowden tube, I'm not sure whether it was above or below the plug thing, when I pulled the bowden tube it came out and was pretty damaged, I might have pulled it through the plug.

>>2988925
You don't really need it and can run without the fitting, it looks like a direct drive printer.
Though if you want to replace it, and keep in mind that I am pulling this out of my ass, it's typically pc4-m6 and pc4-m10 pneumatic fittings.

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The design sucks but hey it looks functional. Will test print tomorrow and see how it fits in currently, I have a little bit of a lip to see if I can squeeze in the camera but will see.
>>2988891
Interesting, will have to explore that one day eventually
>>2988892
Ah right now I understand, didn't think PETG was the type for that before. The more you know, seems like you can do quite a bit with it. Thanks for the help anon

>>2988927
For dimensioning everything, you can take the engineering approach, get your material properties, the thickness of the part and calculate how much strain that could take before failure. Along the way you'd also get how much force you need to bend it as well. You can probably do that in FreeCAD too.
Or just print some test pieces and wing it.
Do keep your print lines in mind, print on an orientation that won't make the part snap along those lines.

>>2988925
For future reference, you're supposed to push the plastic ring down then pull the bowden tube out.
>>2988926
Looks like the M10 variety.

>>2988842
>>2988848
Oh neat. Did you 3D mouse nerds see that guy retrofit a trackball for 3D use?

>>2988927
I'd do a minor redesign to make it more printable. Having one flat surface to put on the bed, slanted overhangs supporting your printer's bridging capabilities, all at orientations that make the best use out of the layer direction. For that you could just take your model and slant it at 45 degrees with a bunch of supports, would probably print decently.

>>2988920
Looms have already been made, but yes, the cross thread thing is an issue. It's probably more sensible to extrude long widths of filament of a fixed diameter and then loom it traditionally.

I don't know what the applications are for this but I kinda wanna do it anyways.

>>2988934
>Did you 3D mouse nerds see that guy retrofit a trackball for 3D use?
My only experience with these is creatively acquiring them from work.
>>2988884
It seems like I was way off. The new ones are nearly $400 now and the used ones are well in the three digits. What the fuck.

>>2988938
>The new ones are nearly $400 now and the used ones are well in the three digits. What the fuck.
Seems like I'll be modding a trackball or 3D printing a spacial mouse if I ever feel the need.

>>2988936
print wavy thick ribbons from the side in two colors and see if they go together

that or build a 3 nozzle machine that braids

>>2988934
>>2988938
>>2988943
there was a left handed refit of the G502 X somebody did recently

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>>2988926
>You don't really need it and can run without the fitting, it looks like a direct drive printer.
It keeps spitting the bowden tube out, so there's definitely a problem with retention.

It's not direct drive, it's bowden tube driven. The feed motor is stationary and at the filament end.
There are mods to convert it to direct drive and they mostly just move the drive to the print head but they require additional cooling and it starts to get a bit involved.

>>2988929
>For future reference, you're supposed to push the plastic ring down then pull the bowden tube out.
Thanks, noted.

>>2988961
>but they require additional cooling
Wat

>>2988963
>Wat

>they require additional cooling
That

>>2988964
Require additional cooling for what, faggot.

>>2988965
>Require additional cooling for what, faggot.
Fucked if I know, arsehole.

>>2988966
Well take the hint, it sounds like nonsense. Try using your brain so you won't get called a faggot.

>>2988968
Try using some manners so that you don't sound offensive to people.

I'm not installing a direct drive so I don't care how they work, I just noted that the mod I saw had extra cooling fans installed.
Maybe the mod maker likes the sound they make, I don't know and I don't care.

I'm trying to fix my bowden tube coupler, I think the part is called, and I came to /3dpg/ to ask what the right search term was for the part.
Something you have not helped with.

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I've used the same chinkshit CHT knockoff nozzle for over a year now, if not longer. It's clogged twice, and every time I've cleaned it with a simple but dumb trick; I deep-fry it in oil. Take a metal container that can take the heat, pour in the cheapest brand of Goyslop seed oil you can find, and deep-fry the nozzle for half an hour or so. Any filament left inside will eventually break down and you can simply use a set of pliers to pick up the nozzle from the oil and tap it on the side of the container to get any residue out.

>>2988972
Oh, and when it's clean I just rinse it in water and leave it on the hot stove top to evaporate any water in it. Then I install and print a benchy - any remaining oil will be extruded out in the first couple layers.

Wha'ts the best way from swapping from something like PETG to PLA and vice versa?

>>2988976
you push the "change filament button" on your printer
then you remove the PETG from the extruder
then you feed the PLA into the extruder
then you push the button again
then you purge until it looks uncontaminated

>>2988969
If you don't even care how your 3d primer works, you don't belong here. Go back. You're too ignorant.

>>2988972
Creme brule burner does that in a cool minute. Also less greasy air.

>>2988979
Ah thought there was more to it. Hear people of doing cold pulls and different ways. Will just stay the course then

>>2988980
>you don't belong here. Go back. You're too ignorant
You are needlessly antagonistic.

While I value knowledge for its own sake, studying the cooling requirements of direct drive mods to my printer won't help me find the right terms to source a replacement retainer clip and there's a limit to how many rabbit holes I want to go down while I have an actual specific objective in mind.

>>2988980
>Creme brule burner does that in a cool minute
That's obviously going to be a hot minute or the plastic won't melt.

>>2988972
Gotta give it to the Americans, they know how to deep fry literally anything

>>2988985
It's the Scottish settlers.

>>2988980
Torches are a bad idea for hardened nozzles (which I believe is the case for OP's nozzle), they'll ruin the heat-treatment. Unless you want to try quenching and tempering. The quench may have adverse effects on a bimetal nozzle's press-fit too, if the heat didn't already loosen them up.

If you're after a method to bring the nozzle up to a temperature where the plastic softens, but not so hot that the heat-treatment starts to fade (i.e. between 200C and 400C), oil is a pretty elegant method. Can't think of anything easier off the top of my head, at least not without getting smoky plastic vapours in your oven. Frying pan full of sand would probably work, though it sounds like the oil getting in contact with the filament helps it come out easier. Maybe it has a chemical or lubricating action.

>>2988981
Cold pulls are a method for clearing a jammed nozzle. So long as the nozzle isn't jammed, and the melting point of the hotter filament is below the burning point of the cooler filament, a normal change should be fine. You may run into that second issue if you're swapping from PLA to an engineering filament like PPS or PAHT, or if you're going from PCL to anything else, otherwise don't worry about it.

>>2988969
>manners so that you don't sound offensive
>4chan
Lol. Lmao, even.

>>2988991
This isn't /b/

>>2988988
Yes, i know there's that one guy on reddit who thinks it's funny to use his driveway torch till the nozzle glows like an electrician's favourite LED. However blowing at the cht part till you can pull it out, then blowing inside till everything is clean up is enough. Else it would require much more time anyway. Outside of the nozzle doesn't go above 200C if you're not cartoonishly overdoing it.

>>2988982
>I value knowledge
You don't. Everyone sees it. Fuck off.

>>2988994
You're being rude and hurtful anon.
What is wrong in your life to make you act out this way online in a 3d printing general thread on the quietest board on 4chan?

>>2988992
One doesn't have to be on /b/ to call the retardation out.

>>2988995
>the quietest board on 4chan
This isn't the 3D modelling board

>>2988982
Your retention ring is broken.
Just shut the fuck up and buy a new pneumatic fitting.
Someone told you the kind you need to get hours ago.

>>2988996
>One doesn't have to be on /b/ to call the retardation out.
It's not retardation to not want to mod for direct drive while trying to repair my bowden tube drive.

>>2988998
>Your retention ring is broken.
>Just shut the fuck up and buy a new pneumatic fitting.
>Someone told you the kind you need to get hours ago.
Thank you, though that anon also said they was pulling it out of their ass so it wasn't a slam dunk.
It does seem to be a PC4-01 M10 though, the two anons were probably right about that.

I am in fact trying to find an appropriate marketplace to get them on that doesn't have a minimum order that would require me to order 10 of them. I'm just also trying to encourage anon not to take his frustration out on online peers.

There is an advice board for people like anon.

>local filament shop has begun stocking their own version of PC-PBT for the same price as their PLA tough
Curious how well this'll print on my Ender 3 Neo.

>>2989002
>minimum order
Amazon sells these for like $5 for a pack of ten.
On any other marketplace you'll pay $1 for a single fitting and then $4 for shipping.
You may be able to save a dollar or two on Aliexpress, but they you'd have to wait two-three weeks.

The only way to buy a single one without overpaying is to go to hardware store (I'm not even sure if generic hardware store carry these).

It's five bucks for a pack of ten on Amazon.
Pay five bucks.
Fix the printer.
Throw the rest into a junk drawer.

>>2989004
stores*

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>>2989003
Worth trying for science.

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>>2989006
Those are rookie temps

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Hi there frens, I had some minor issues with warping while printing ASA. Working on my bed adhesion did help a little bit (scrubbing with soap, using glue stick), but long and slender prints still had the tendency to warp a little.
I've got a Creality K1C and my readings for the chamber temperature where usually in the high 30s to low/mid 40s °C (more on that later). I've read that an elevated chamber temperature might also help. And it should be beneficial when it comes to layer adhesion too. So I want to focus on chamber temperature for now. My goal is to reach between maybe 50°C to 55°C (I think the K1C's camera has problems above 55°C).
Anyway, this is not a cry for help, but my journey on modifying my printer, the tests I did and my results. Some of my findings are more general, while others are K1C specific.
Maybe some of you find this helpful. If you don't give a fuck, feel free to ignore my posts. Sorry for shitting up the general with multiple posts and pics though. I am not a karma farming reddit faggot, so I'll post it here instead.
I ended up with a bunch of bubble-wrap-aluminum-insulation because of some unrelated project. So I wanted to try and insulate my printer first, before going all in on an active chamber heater.
Here is my first setup. Just a slightly modified K1C. I made sure that all axis were in their home position before lowering the z-axis to -200mm. I made sure that everything was (at least somewhat) cold before firing up the bed to 100°C.
I was monitoring the readings of the extruder temperature (since it wasn't in use I might as well use it as another point to measure the chamber temperature), the chamber temperature (thermistor is in the left pic in the red circle), the mainboard temperature and the ambient temperature.
I wrote down each temperature every 5 minutes for 1 hour.

to be continued...

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>>2989008
For the first part of my modification, I started with insulating the sides of the printer. Since I was left with a small square of insulation, I threw it in there and weighted it down with a hex nut.
I doubt that I would lose much heat over the bottom, but maybe It will help keeping the mainboard a little bit cooler (spoiler, not to the extend I was hoping for)
So this is my second setup and I did the same test as before.
>bed to -200mm
>start heating bed to 100°C
>take measurements every 5 minutes
After I was done with this test, I felt the sides of the printer. They felt cool to the touch. Definitely cooler than my last test. I could not get a good feel on the backplate, because of the hex shaped pattern. The top cover was still very warm, especially the flat middle square. The glass door at the front felt very warm too.

to be continued...

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>>2989009
ok, now for the next part of my modification, I covered most large rectangular areas at the back wall. While doing so I covered some small openings too. I replaced the scrap square insulation at the bottom with one that fits and I covered the inside of the square middle section of the lid. I left the angled sides free, so I can still get a top view of the print, if I want to.
First thing that I noticed was that the inside of the printer looks like a fucking space ship now, which is kinda neat.
I took my measurements, same as with the last 2 setups. Now the top feels cold too. Not sure about the back. Now the glass door is probably the biggest surface that really feels warm. Besides that, the metal frame, especially the top part feels very warm too.
I did not cover the back fan, because I want to be able to control and maybe cool down the chamber temperature if needed.
In the next parts I will show my results, a problem I ran into and some of my thoughts about it.

to be continued...

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>>2989010
here are my results and a few things that I noticed. First thing that caught my eye was the rapid cooling down of the mainboard. It seems as if the cooling fan starts when the board reaches 70°C. It seems as if that's when the mainboard fan sets in.
But back to the results. As expected, the more insulation, the warmer the interior (big surprise, I know). But I also noticed the huge gap between the extruder and chamber thermistors. Heat rises, so it was to be expected to be warmer in the center right above the bed. Besides that, the chamber ntc is right at the back wall.
So let's focus on the extruder temperature first. Since it's in the middle of the chamber and that's where my prints will be most of the time.
At the beginning we had 17,9°C for the first 2 setups and 19,1°C at the third setup. This gap was pretty much closed in the first 10 minutes or so. So I don't think that the difference in the beginning had a big influence on the final results.
But we can see a clear trend. My "full" insulation managed to give me 3,6°C more in the middle of the chamber.
Remember that this is only the case for this setup. Nothing movies, so no heat from the motors. The hotend isn't heating either. And the bed is lowered almost to the bottom.
So in a real world application, I would expect my temperature gains to be even larger because the influence of this modification seems to scale with rising temperatures.
In addition to that, it seems as if my mainboard managed to stay roughly 1,5°C cooler too. A small gap and only really visible from the "no bottom insulation" to the "any bottom insulation". It even seems as if the temperature of the mainboard starts to rise again at the end of my first test setup. The rising heat from the chamber might have played a role in it. It seems plausible, but for now, it might as well just be a coincidence. More tests are needed, but I can't be bothered to further investigate this.

to be continued...

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>>2989011
Now my last issue was the discrepancy between the extruder temperature and the chamber temperature. The readings at room temperature are pretty spot on but then they just drift apart. I put in another probe that I had laying around, just to be sure. I put it close to the extruder and both temperatures were pretty much the same.
Then I put it closer to the chamber thermistor and I lost a few Kelvin. But that's ok, because I wasn't directly above the bed anymore. Still almost a 10°C gap to the chamber thermistor. In my last test setup I even had some insulation between the tip of the thermistor and the back wall. Still the same, or an even larger gap. So it probably wasn't just the back wall that was causing this issue.
Now I finally got the chamber thermistor out of its wall bracket und put it together with my extra probe that has a little screw hole in it. So one thermistor was fucking the other thermistor. And suddenly the difference went downt to less than 3°C.
It seems as if the direct contact with the back wall, together with the position in the corner of 2 cable channels is less than optimal. That's why I designed a little thermistor bracket that goes into the wall bracket and reaches 3cm into the chamber.
I set everything up again. Bed down to -200mm, heating up to 100°C. Added my additional probe at a point roughly between extruder and chamber thermistor. And then I had it running until it reached equilibrium.
The results are:
>extruder thermistor: 52,6°C
>extra thermistor: 50,5°C
>chamber thermistor: 47°C
now the readings of the chamber temperature somewhat resembles the actual chamber temperature at the printing area. A difference of 5°C is something I can live with. I just have to keep in mind that this reading is more or less the lower end of the chamber temperature.

to be continued...

>>2989012
In conclusion, I consider this project a success.
I was able to reliably raise the chamber temperature, while also getting more accurate readings too.
There are things I could improve, but first I will observe the printing results of my new setup.
In the future I might put some insulation on the glass door too. Or cover the vents on the top raiser with a towel. It's obviously not air tight, so there are still small gaps, even with vents closed. A towel could also cover the top part of the metal frame that seems to acts as a sort of heat sink.
For now it seems as if the active chamber heater isn't necessary for my target temperature. Maybe if I want to reduce the time it takes to heat up the chamber, or if I want to print with a low bed and high chamber temperature.

I got root access to my K1C and I am running Mainsail for the visualization over my browser. I looked into the printer.cfg and some other configs, but I couldn't find the conditions for the mainboard cooling fan. It starts at 70°C.
I wanted the cooling fan to start at maybe 50°C. I am not in the same room as the printer, so noise is not an issue. But maybe a lower peak temperature will be easier on the electronics. Especially electrolytic caps don't like heat all that much.
Does anyone know a good solution for tuning the mainboard cooling? Something not too invasive. Even though it's probably a non issue and I worry too much.
Thanks for everyone that's still with me. Your mother will live a long and prosperous life.

>>2988885
With steel you should be fine

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>>2988969
>Try using some manners so that you don't sound offensive to people.
Hey now, please don't be a faggot.

>>2989004
This anon is correct, those fittings break all the time so it's worth it to have a bunch of backups

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Following on from >>2988854 got my test print out in PLA, I did manage to squeeze it in with a bit of force required, I'd imagine it would snap eventually with PLA but the plan is to do the final piece in PETG anyways.
The camera has ever so slight black borders all around the edges so just need to make the front and back ever so slightly thinner.
Have to figure out an easy way to assemble the lid for the board without the need of tools, there is three M3 mounting holes for the board.
Also need to find a way to route a usb c cable.
Other various improvements needed but happy with how it turned out
>>2988928
Yeah I'll take a look into stress testing it in freecad and see how it holds up, that'll be interesting to do
I did print it laying flat so I think that's the most appropriate for this use I'd imagine
>>2988934
I did make the back of it completely flush, didn't make any sense not to anyways indeed. I don't mind printing supports and they popped off pretty easy so I let it be

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>>2989030
Is there a better way to mount this camera?
The box I have isn't magnetic and the suction mounts seem to loosen up eventually so I'm a bit weary taking this out on the road and not having to constantly worry about it.
I know I have some rails there but having a hard time imagining what I could use to mount onto it

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>>2989031
Here's an expensive and stupid way to do it
but it will be a lot more secure than whatever you have going on with those suction cups

>>2989004
>Amazon sells these for like $5 for a pack of ten.
>>2989020
>This anon is correct, those fittings break all the time so it's worth it to have a bunch of backups
Amazon isn't ideal where I am, the shipping gets complicated and it's slow.
I found them and ordered them, allegedly with next day delivery though I'm sceptical, just everywhere I want to order them, they're $1 each and the minimum order is $10-$20.
I found some other shit on their store I can probably use and added a few spares like you said.

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>>2989049
if you need it once because it broke, youll need it again because it will break again. $10 is so inconsequential, what a bizarre thing to fuss over.

>>2989031
is the end of that pole threaded? you could screw it into a piece of wood with one of picrel on the other side of it and then ziptie the wood to the rails.

>>2989052
>if you need it once because it broke, youll need it again because it will break again. $10 is so inconsequential, what a bizarre thing to fuss over.
I wasn't fussing over it, just trying to find one where I didn't have to buy 20 of them, or even 10.
I've had this printer running a few years and this is the first time I've broken one, it's not a regular occurrence, a couple of spares should do me for longer than the printer will last.
What fuss I am making is because I'm in volunteer work and not earning income right now, it makes me tight fisted, an instinct from growing up poor.

Did any poor soul here ever successfully print ASA on an open frame bedslinger without enclosure? I need to print an outdoor component for my old man. Also, does ASA adhere well to textured PEI or do I need to interpose a layer of PLA?

>>2989054
Not without enclosure, no.

However, the outdoor thing is a meme, PLA will survive just fine under sunlight. for a decade or more.

>>2989054
I printed nylon on an open bed that topped out at 50ºC. The trick is to point a space heater at it. Good luck.

>>2989056
>PLA will survive just fine under sunlight. for a decade or more.
actually about 3 years in direct sunlight from my own experience at least

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>>2989047
This looks rock solid for sure at least, thanks for the idea.
The suction mounts are pretty good, I can get up to motorway speeds with it on the car without any worry but yeah just for this surface, ain't the best
>>2989052
Only the top is threaded to go into the camera. Depending on which stick I want to use, one have like a gopro style one and the other has a 1/4" mount at the bottom. I get the idea though, I guess would need a male to male adapter for that to work. Just wondering if the pole would be stable enough just relying solely on the 6mm it's threaded into that

>>2988997
Ever been to /po/?

>>2989054
Do a skirt, but up to the top layer. Keep your bed at 120, or as hot as your machine allows. Make sure layer times are even. Don't stand near this thing, best kept in a garage till it's done. Fumes aren't just stinky jokes. If you let it run in a living room open your windows for at least two hours till you can't smell anything of it anymore.

>>2989085
>Ever been to /po/?
They're not the quietest but only because they get confused /pol/tards blowing in.

>>2989014
Neat stuff, though I skimmed half of it. Did you install a fan blowing air at the underside of your heated bed? That's a technique often used to get the chamber to heat up quicker, by working the heated bed harder.

>>2989031
I'd just drill holes into the box to mount something that you can thread the mount directly into.

>>2989054
From what I hear, it should be feasible if it's got a fat brim, is a part low to the bed, and you print it with a hot bed and a draft-shield. Buying some carbon-fibre ASA will have additional warp-resistance.

>>2989085
>/po/
Ah, yeah that probably takes the cake. On the bright side, I visited /3/ and saw some guy trying to rig a skeleton such that the movement of 4+ sets of breasts looked natural.

>>2989095
>a draft-shield
aka a cardboard box

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>>2989109
I meant pic related

>>2989127
oh that's new to me. new things are stupid. that's stupid.

>>2989133
it's the skirt loop made to have as many layers as the model is tall.
it doesn't really work.

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this thing is pretty neat, I told myself I wouldnt print too many nick knacks but here we are, I think il make all my 3d printed equipment dummy 13 scale.

does anyone have a example of bambu lab sunflower yellow, there arent many pics of it online, does it look close to the forklift? im running out of this mustard yellow PLA and its sorta pricy.

Also, 2 weeks with the X2D and i have some problems, the AMS doesn't always properly feed, it has like a less than 5% failure rate on slot 1 which can get annoying, this is apparently semi common and im hoping a firmware update fixes it. Also getting some adhesion errors but thats honestly probably user error on my part.

>>2989156
what? are you talking about the dummy 13? i never said its PLA, the frame is petg as recommended

>>2989157
oh nvm

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Is it normal for flow and speed to be reduced when there's less stuff to print on higher layers?

>>2989008
>(I think the K1C's camera has problems above 55°C).
Yeah, it's really annoying. It also tends to fog if you use glue.
Thanks for posting all of this. When I need to print things like PC-CF I have to point a space heater directly at my printer and wait at least one hour for the chamber to get to temp. And obviously since this introduces a lot of thermal expansion I have to run through a bunch of calibration steps just to start printing.
IIRC I also had to raise the max bed temp in a cfg file to get above 100C.
Did you do something to level your bed? That's something I really need to do on mine but I'm laaaaazy.
For the fan I think I remember seeing a way to control it by setting a GPIO pin high. Or you could just replace it with a 24V server fan and connect it directly to the PSU

>>2989155
I thought that was a real post when I read it last thread, is it actually pasta?

>>2989159
Caused by the setting: minimum layer time. I suspect the idea is to prevent the printed parts being above their effective heat-deflection temperature when the next layer is printed over the top. I know printing too hot too fast can result in shitty overhangs and maybe even dimensional inaccuracy. If you have a powerful part-cooling setup like HeroMe it's probably fine to turn the setting down.

>>2989167
Ah I see, thanks. It doesn't seem to have a huge effect on overall print time so I'll keep it at the default value.

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>>2989095
>Did you install a fan blowing air at the underside of your heated bed?
Not yet. I've seen this mod and it seems like a good idea for a poor-mans-active-chamber-heater.
Usually I heat up the bed for 20 minutes. It's not wasted time either because I usually wipe down the bed with IPA, load the filament and slice my models during that time. So I've got a nice and uniform target temperature all over the bed before calibrating the adaptive bed mesh so it's done warping from the heat change.
Today I fucked around a little bit, so it was heating up for probably more than 30 minutes or so. And I am already above 48°C for the first layer. The first couple of layers are so close to the bed anyway that it's probably way hotter too. So the elevated chamber temperature will come into play later. For now further modifications don't seem to be necessary for my personal workflow. But I will keep it in the back of my head if things change or if I will not get the desired results.

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>>2989163
>When I need to print things like PC-CF I have to point a space heater directly at my printer and wait at least one hour for the chamber to get to temp.
What is your desired target temperature for these materials? Also, did you run into any issues regarding the stepper motors? I've seen people adding some additional heat sinks to their motors for cooling.

>I also had to raise the max bed temp in a cfg file to get above 100C.
I was playing with that idea too, while scrolling through the configs. I think 110°C should be ok without killing anything on its pcb. What max bed temps are you running?

>Did you do something to level your bed?
Yeah, I mean it wasn't horribly unusable, but it wasn't good either. I was kinda lucke, because the left and right z-axis rods were pretty level already. Just the back rod fell down like a slope. First I removed to bottom plate of the case to work on it. While fucking a little bit with the belt tension, I was able to make the z-axis belt skip individual teeth for each rod. Then reassemble everything, heat it up again, run the auto bed calibration and check the readings again. I repeated this more ofthen than I like to admit. It was fucking tedious and made me almost go crazy. So I've got full sympathy for your laziness. In the end it wasn't possible for my printer to go below a 0,2mm difference across the bed. So I added one of those little leveling spacers made from ASA and now I am below 0,15mm most of the time. At one point the warping at different temperatures becomes larger than the overall height difference, so it will never be perfect anyway, but I am happy now. I also changed the factory bed resolution from 5x5 to 6x6. Just a little bit higher resolution for a few more seconds. I am running an adaptive bed mesh most of the time anyway.
So my advice is, use those little spacers from the start. Maybe it's a little less elegant, but so much more convenient.

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>>2989175
>What is your desired target temperature for these materials?
At least 60°, I think that was the recommendation on the filament.
>Also, did you run into any issues regarding the stepper motors?
I don't think so, but I had a lot of print failures so this might be related
>What max bed temps are you running?
I pushed it to 125°, haven't had any issues but I think my longest print was around 5 hours. I wouldn't trust it for overnight printing with no supervision.
>So my advice is, use those little spacers from the start. Maybe it's a little less elegant, but so much more convenient.
I'll try that, thanks.

>>2989166
if you post something just before a thread dies and no one looks at it, its completely fair game to re post it in a new thread, why the fuck would i turn that into a copypasta

Let me get this out the way
Lurk more
wow it sure is summer
look we got a tourist

>>2989182
It was a long way before the end of the thread, I assumed that nobody knew the answer to your question.

Garolite is seriously a magical print bed material. I am printing PLA, ASA, and PC-PBT on the same bed with no adhesives.