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>>2988817
turns out the extruder decided it wanted to take the rest of the day off. i thought the nozzle was clogged but it was extruding just fine once i put a fresh length of filament in it and was able to get some bite on it. i think i might have my drying box temp set too high and the drive gear in the extruder is shearing off the bits its trying to get a purchase on.

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>>2988818
Fuck you, beat me by...quite a bit actually.

>>2988822
I just did it because although we weren't in any real danger of falling off no one spoke up that they were baking so I took it upon myself. Yours is more neat looking though if its any consolation. And mine is actually 1/3 of yours anyways.

>>2988823
It's fine, I was paying you a compliment in the most passive-aggressive way I could.
I might have made it first but I took 20 minutes to find just the right couple of fonts to make the text just this side of unreadable.

I inferred a thread tradition of filling it with posts from the last thread.

>>2988827
I just took a ss of the font and asked the ai to give me a free one. And added a drop shadow in gimp. I did however have to edit the kerning spacing since the default overlapped and was ugly. Is it a tradition for the font to be somewhat "illegible"?

aww damn looking at the archive this is thread #382

>>2988830
>Is it a tradition for the font to be somewhat "illegible"?
I don't know, these threads last so long that this is only the third one I've been in for and I certainly never bothered going back to check.
The font in the last one was less than ideal though so it seemed like there was some kind of tradition of weird ass-fonts.

>>2988834
Noted

>>2988820
my sunlu dryer turns off automatically

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Clapped out Ender 3 gang gang

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No longer sticky.
>>2988831
We are off by more than that, don't think it's the first time we forget to increase the count.

>>2988842
my 3dmouse isnt sticky? What is that from? I have one 1/10th that size I use everywhere. Nice print thogh.
And also noted, what thread number are we at? I added +2 to the last thread that was numbered. It looked like a pretty consistent OP up until a couple of the last threads.

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>>2988845
Up until the last couple of years the soft touch coating that they used would suddenly turn into a very unpleasant sticky goo. It was an issue that logitech refused to cover under warranty on a $300 peripheral.

>>2988848
wait what? I thought we were talking about 3dconnexion devices? Whats the comment about Logitech? Does Logi make 3dconn? Or was that just an aside on the industry's take on it.

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3D design is a bit difficult especially when I have no clue wtf I'm doing
Spent Basically 6 hours trying to make a custom case but then realised a flaw, not going to be able to put the camera in the case without severe difficulty, I don't think theres a way I can make a case that fits correctly to this. Also there's more to go on top of the case (antenna and custom board)
Took me a few hours just to make a very rough camera model. and then just boolean it out of a block
Is there a way to make this secure without having to do like a two part thing with screws?

>>2988854
>Took me a few hours just to make a very rough camera model. and then just boolean it out of a block
That's.... one way of doing it? I guess...
>Is there a way to make this secure without having to do like a two part thing with screws?
Depending on the material, you can lean on its flexibility and make it a snap fit.

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>>2988849
Logitech is the parent company.
The spray on rubber decomposes over time, even if you don't use it. Have a look on ebay at the used units and you'll see this is all happening to them. Last I knew they were still using the same ruberized finish as of 2024. It literally starts rotting.
I don't really know what I'm going to do with a second one, but it was an alright distraction.
Upside to this, is that you could pick these nasty ones up for like $50 and do the picrel vinyl wrap and 3d printed knob to them.

>>2988856
What are other ways of doing it? I saw some guide that you basically do an outline of the model (which is really complex to do for some reason, there's no straightforward way to just get the entire outside geometry and just offset by 1 or 2 mm)
and then create like a profile around the thing but it kept shitting itself going around corners so gave up on that method.
>Depending on the material, you can lean on its flexibility and make it a snap fit.
I assume TPU for that then? Never worked with it before

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>>2988857
>Logitech is the parent company.
Didn't know that, and that makes a lot of sense. It does have the premium feel of a Logi device. Maybe even a bit more even.
I love mine so much, navigating in 3d space is so much easier. And making turntable videos in blender manually with OBS is so much quicker. Once you get the hang of it, its like have a super power in 3d programs. I use it in my left hand while I use my mouse to edit mesh in my right.

>>2988860
If I'm understanding it correctly, you just want to enclose the entire camera (the the left) while having some holes for cables you want to connect to it. You don't need to closely follow the exact shape of the camera to do that, in fact following it too closely probably won't even work because the printed piece might shrink as it cools anyway.
You need to support it on all 3 axes, and enclose the rest. A literal block with holes on the biggest faces and some tabs to keep the camera centred and secure would do and that's a plenty simple shape to model. The holes are easy to do too.
I generally model the part I want to make. If I model the part I need that to interact with I do it only for assembly purposes. If I need to do something like you're doing, I take pictures of the part and import those pictures as a canvas for the CAD software (or just measure it all around and model based on those measurements).
>there's no straightforward way to just get the entire outside geometry and just offset by 1 or 2 mm
On FreeCAD, it's called "offset", you find it on the sketch workbench.
>TPU
Nah, you can do it with ABS or even PLA. Check out models for flexible vases that are made with rigid filament, it's all in understanding the material. They can bend a little bit and if you add a lot of small features to bend, you get that that little bit of flexibility adding up real quick.

metal at home:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOD02TuzLl8
stainless steel
tool steel
alloys
brass (this is interesting since it offgasses poison and is dangerous to smelt at home)

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>>2988862
Yep pretty much, just need to make an enclosure at the top as well to connect this board and antenna to.
And yeah having a cable run down along the side of it.
The only support this thing is going to have is a 1/4" camera mount, so basically 2-2.5mm of frame will only be holding it at the bottom, hopefully that will be enough.
>just measure it all around and model based on those measurements
Yeah this is pretty much what I did, though the camera itself has some weird curves and shit that made it a bit difficult and don't know if it would print flush
>you find it on the sketch workbench
Yeah but I wanted to do an offset say on after I had done all the padding and profiles etc, I couldn't find a simple way to just get the finished shape and just get that geometry because of all the weird cuts, it didn't have a proper edge on the sides if that makes any sense.
>you can do it with ABS or even PLA
hmm interesting, I'll have to look into that, all I have at the moment is PETG and PLA
Think I'll just have to scrap the model I made and replan this from scratch again, don't know how to salvage my current model and make it usable. Gonna be a fun night

>>2988880
>though the camera itself has some weird curves and shit
Print yourself a fillet gauge. Comes in handy a lot. You can find the models on the internets.
>PETG
That's perfect for this. PETG has more natural flexibility than ABS and PLA while still being solid unlike TPU (and much easier to print than TPU too).

>>2988857
You can remove sticky rubber with label remover
(one with lemon/orange scent) or lemon oil and some scrubbing.
>you could pick these nasty ones up for like $50
They're like at least 200$ used where i live lol.

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I heard that metallic PLA filaments wreck nozzles quite quickly. I'm still using a stock 0.4 nozzle on my P1S and bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle for my A1 Mini. Should I expect any excessive wear on those nozzles when printing with filaments like eSUN PLA+ metallic?

>>2988883
>Print yourself a fillet gauge
This does look very handy, will be printing one for sure, thanking anon
>PETG has more natural flexibility
But what does this mean though? doesn't seem very flexible in the sense I can just pop something in

>>2988890
>doesn't seem very flexible in the sense I can just pop something in
I've printed a phone case out of petg and it's felixble enough to pop a phone in and out of. Don't know how it'd go when it's very thick though.

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>>2988890
It means it has a larger limit of elastic deformation. Basically, you can bend and flex it more before it fails (cracks or breaks). If you need things to snap together, that's what you want. It will stretch or compress a little and then go back to its original shape without breaking. Pic related, it means the elastic region is larger. For most filaments, the plastic region is pretty much non existent and it just fails as soon as it reaches it. Stress is the force you apply, strain is how much it deforms.
Those vases I mentioned before amplify this by having lots of gaps that act as strain relief and break the distribution of that stress you put on the part when bending it. Each part bends just a little bit instead of having to take all the strain and so it doesn't break.

Has anybody ever tried a weave pattern with 3D printing? I think it could be somewhat possible with non-planar slicing software.

>>2988910
There's a weave top layer pattern for color being developed.

>>2988912
Interesting. I was thinking monoilament/monocolor but there must be a way to do it.

>>2988910
there are tons of knit looking slop. I think 3d mesh/chainmail/fabric is the closest thing to weaving as it has a top and bottom.

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>>2988915
I don't want knit knotting slop. I want to know if it's possible with a 3D printer to make an actual weave from the filament itself. Obviously that's not going to be possible with planar slicing tho...

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I broke this little shit on the hotend teflon plug thing while trying to clean the nozzle.
Anyone know what I search for to find a replacement?

The bowden tube keeps popping out now and spewing filament everywhere and it gets all kinked and run over by the hotend so I can't even use it again.

>>2988918
even without planar slicing you would need to manipulate the cross threads out of the way. you could do it with a 3D pen but it's about as useful as braiding uncooked spaghetti

now making a loom with a 3d printer would be cool

>>2988919
what printer? Solid chance its a hotend specific spring clip type thing.

>>2988922
Anycubic Kobra Max

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>>2988922
>Solid chance its a hotend specific spring clip type thing.
It was originally a ring that went around the bowden tube, I'm not sure whether it was above or below the plug thing, when I pulled the bowden tube it came out and was pretty damaged, I might have pulled it through the plug.

>>2988925
You don't really need it and can run without the fitting, it looks like a direct drive printer.
Though if you want to replace it, and keep in mind that I am pulling this out of my ass, it's typically pc4-m6 and pc4-m10 pneumatic fittings.

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The design sucks but hey it looks functional. Will test print tomorrow and see how it fits in currently, I have a little bit of a lip to see if I can squeeze in the camera but will see.
>>2988891
Interesting, will have to explore that one day eventually
>>2988892
Ah right now I understand, didn't think PETG was the type for that before. The more you know, seems like you can do quite a bit with it. Thanks for the help anon

>>2988927
For dimensioning everything, you can take the engineering approach, get your material properties, the thickness of the part and calculate how much strain that could take before failure. Along the way you'd also get how much force you need to bend it as well. You can probably do that in FreeCAD too.
Or just print some test pieces and wing it.
Do keep your print lines in mind, print on an orientation that won't make the part snap along those lines.

>>2988925
For future reference, you're supposed to push the plastic ring down then pull the bowden tube out.
>>2988926
Looks like the M10 variety.

>>2988842
>>2988848
Oh neat. Did you 3D mouse nerds see that guy retrofit a trackball for 3D use?

>>2988927
I'd do a minor redesign to make it more printable. Having one flat surface to put on the bed, slanted overhangs supporting your printer's bridging capabilities, all at orientations that make the best use out of the layer direction. For that you could just take your model and slant it at 45 degrees with a bunch of supports, would probably print decently.

>>2988920
Looms have already been made, but yes, the cross thread thing is an issue. It's probably more sensible to extrude long widths of filament of a fixed diameter and then loom it traditionally.

I don't know what the applications are for this but I kinda wanna do it anyways.

>>2988934
>Did you 3D mouse nerds see that guy retrofit a trackball for 3D use?
My only experience with these is creatively acquiring them from work.
>>2988884
It seems like I was way off. The new ones are nearly $400 now and the used ones are well in the three digits. What the fuck.

>>2988938
>The new ones are nearly $400 now and the used ones are well in the three digits. What the fuck.
Seems like I'll be modding a trackball or 3D printing a spacial mouse if I ever feel the need.

>>2988936
print wavy thick ribbons from the side in two colors and see if they go together

that or build a 3 nozzle machine that braids

>>2988934
>>2988938
>>2988943
there was a left handed refit of the G502 X somebody did recently

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>>2988926
>You don't really need it and can run without the fitting, it looks like a direct drive printer.
It keeps spitting the bowden tube out, so there's definitely a problem with retention.

It's not direct drive, it's bowden tube driven. The feed motor is stationary and at the filament end.
There are mods to convert it to direct drive and they mostly just move the drive to the print head but they require additional cooling and it starts to get a bit involved.

>>2988929
>For future reference, you're supposed to push the plastic ring down then pull the bowden tube out.
Thanks, noted.

>>2988961
>but they require additional cooling
Wat

>>2988963
>Wat

>they require additional cooling
That

>>2988964
Require additional cooling for what, faggot.

>>2988965
>Require additional cooling for what, faggot.
Fucked if I know, arsehole.

>>2988966
Well take the hint, it sounds like nonsense. Try using your brain so you won't get called a faggot.

>>2988968
Try using some manners so that you don't sound offensive to people.

I'm not installing a direct drive so I don't care how they work, I just noted that the mod I saw had extra cooling fans installed.
Maybe the mod maker likes the sound they make, I don't know and I don't care.

I'm trying to fix my bowden tube coupler, I think the part is called, and I came to /3dpg/ to ask what the right search term was for the part.
Something you have not helped with.

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I've used the same chinkshit CHT knockoff nozzle for over a year now, if not longer. It's clogged twice, and every time I've cleaned it with a simple but dumb trick; I deep-fry it in oil. Take a metal container that can take the heat, pour in the cheapest brand of Goyslop seed oil you can find, and deep-fry the nozzle for half an hour or so. Any filament left inside will eventually break down and you can simply use a set of pliers to pick up the nozzle from the oil and tap it on the side of the container to get any residue out.

>>2988972
Oh, and when it's clean I just rinse it in water and leave it on the hot stove top to evaporate any water in it. Then I install and print a benchy - any remaining oil will be extruded out in the first couple layers.

Wha'ts the best way from swapping from something like PETG to PLA and vice versa?

>>2988976
you push the "change filament button" on your printer
then you remove the PETG from the extruder
then you feed the PLA into the extruder
then you push the button again
then you purge until it looks uncontaminated

>>2988969
If you don't even care how your 3d primer works, you don't belong here. Go back. You're too ignorant.

>>2988972
Creme brule burner does that in a cool minute. Also less greasy air.

>>2988979
Ah thought there was more to it. Hear people of doing cold pulls and different ways. Will just stay the course then

>>2988980
>you don't belong here. Go back. You're too ignorant
You are needlessly antagonistic.

While I value knowledge for its own sake, studying the cooling requirements of direct drive mods to my printer won't help me find the right terms to source a replacement retainer clip and there's a limit to how many rabbit holes I want to go down while I have an actual specific objective in mind.

>>2988980
>Creme brule burner does that in a cool minute
That's obviously going to be a hot minute or the plastic won't melt.

>>2988972
Gotta give it to the Americans, they know how to deep fry literally anything

>>2988985
It's the Scottish settlers.

>>2988980
Torches are a bad idea for hardened nozzles (which I believe is the case for OP's nozzle), they'll ruin the heat-treatment. Unless you want to try quenching and tempering. The quench may have adverse effects on a bimetal nozzle's press-fit too, if the heat didn't already loosen them up.

If you're after a method to bring the nozzle up to a temperature where the plastic softens, but not so hot that the heat-treatment starts to fade (i.e. between 200C and 400C), oil is a pretty elegant method. Can't think of anything easier off the top of my head, at least not without getting smoky plastic vapours in your oven. Frying pan full of sand would probably work, though it sounds like the oil getting in contact with the filament helps it come out easier. Maybe it has a chemical or lubricating action.

>>2988981
Cold pulls are a method for clearing a jammed nozzle. So long as the nozzle isn't jammed, and the melting point of the hotter filament is below the burning point of the cooler filament, a normal change should be fine. You may run into that second issue if you're swapping from PLA to an engineering filament like PPS or PAHT, or if you're going from PCL to anything else, otherwise don't worry about it.

>>2988969
>manners so that you don't sound offensive
>4chan
Lol. Lmao, even.

>>2988991
This isn't /b/

>>2988988
Yes, i know there's that one guy on reddit who thinks it's funny to use his driveway torch till the nozzle glows like an electrician's favourite LED. However blowing at the cht part till you can pull it out, then blowing inside till everything is clean up is enough. Else it would require much more time anyway. Outside of the nozzle doesn't go above 200C if you're not cartoonishly overdoing it.

>>2988982
>I value knowledge
You don't. Everyone sees it. Fuck off.

>>2988994
You're being rude and hurtful anon.
What is wrong in your life to make you act out this way online in a 3d printing general thread on the quietest board on 4chan?

>>2988992
One doesn't have to be on /b/ to call the retardation out.

>>2988995
>the quietest board on 4chan
This isn't the 3D modelling board

>>2988982
Your retention ring is broken.
Just shut the fuck up and buy a new pneumatic fitting.
Someone told you the kind you need to get hours ago.

>>2988996
>One doesn't have to be on /b/ to call the retardation out.
It's not retardation to not want to mod for direct drive while trying to repair my bowden tube drive.

>>2988998
>Your retention ring is broken.
>Just shut the fuck up and buy a new pneumatic fitting.
>Someone told you the kind you need to get hours ago.
Thank you, though that anon also said they was pulling it out of their ass so it wasn't a slam dunk.
It does seem to be a PC4-01 M10 though, the two anons were probably right about that.

I am in fact trying to find an appropriate marketplace to get them on that doesn't have a minimum order that would require me to order 10 of them. I'm just also trying to encourage anon not to take his frustration out on online peers.

There is an advice board for people like anon.

>local filament shop has begun stocking their own version of PC-PBT for the same price as their PLA tough
Curious how well this'll print on my Ender 3 Neo.

>>2989002
>minimum order
Amazon sells these for like $5 for a pack of ten.
On any other marketplace you'll pay $1 for a single fitting and then $4 for shipping.
You may be able to save a dollar or two on Aliexpress, but they you'd have to wait two-three weeks.

The only way to buy a single one without overpaying is to go to hardware store (I'm not even sure if generic hardware store carry these).

It's five bucks for a pack of ten on Amazon.
Pay five bucks.
Fix the printer.
Throw the rest into a junk drawer.

>>2989004
stores*

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>>2989003
Worth trying for science.

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>>2989006
Those are rookie temps

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Hi there frens, I had some minor issues with warping while printing ASA. Working on my bed adhesion did help a little bit (scrubbing with soap, using glue stick), but long and slender prints still had the tendency to warp a little.
I've got a Creality K1C and my readings for the chamber temperature where usually in the high 30s to low/mid 40s °C (more on that later). I've read that an elevated chamber temperature might also help. And it should be beneficial when it comes to layer adhesion too. So I want to focus on chamber temperature for now. My goal is to reach between maybe 50°C to 55°C (I think the K1C's camera has problems above 55°C).
Anyway, this is not a cry for help, but my journey on modifying my printer, the tests I did and my results. Some of my findings are more general, while others are K1C specific.
Maybe some of you find this helpful. If you don't give a fuck, feel free to ignore my posts. Sorry for shitting up the general with multiple posts and pics though. I am not a karma farming reddit faggot, so I'll post it here instead.
I ended up with a bunch of bubble-wrap-aluminum-insulation because of some unrelated project. So I wanted to try and insulate my printer first, before going all in on an active chamber heater.
Here is my first setup. Just a slightly modified K1C. I made sure that all axis were in their home position before lowering the z-axis to -200mm. I made sure that everything was (at least somewhat) cold before firing up the bed to 100°C.
I was monitoring the readings of the extruder temperature (since it wasn't in use I might as well use it as another point to measure the chamber temperature), the chamber temperature (thermistor is in the left pic in the red circle), the mainboard temperature and the ambient temperature.
I wrote down each temperature every 5 minutes for 1 hour.

to be continued...

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>>2989008
For the first part of my modification, I started with insulating the sides of the printer. Since I was left with a small square of insulation, I threw it in there and weighted it down with a hex nut.
I doubt that I would lose much heat over the bottom, but maybe It will help keeping the mainboard a little bit cooler (spoiler, not to the extend I was hoping for)
So this is my second setup and I did the same test as before.
>bed to -200mm
>start heating bed to 100°C
>take measurements every 5 minutes
After I was done with this test, I felt the sides of the printer. They felt cool to the touch. Definitely cooler than my last test. I could not get a good feel on the backplate, because of the hex shaped pattern. The top cover was still very warm, especially the flat middle square. The glass door at the front felt very warm too.

to be continued...

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>>2989009
ok, now for the next part of my modification, I covered most large rectangular areas at the back wall. While doing so I covered some small openings too. I replaced the scrap square insulation at the bottom with one that fits and I covered the inside of the square middle section of the lid. I left the angled sides free, so I can still get a top view of the print, if I want to.
First thing that I noticed was that the inside of the printer looks like a fucking space ship now, which is kinda neat.
I took my measurements, same as with the last 2 setups. Now the top feels cold too. Not sure about the back. Now the glass door is probably the biggest surface that really feels warm. Besides that, the metal frame, especially the top part feels very warm too.
I did not cover the back fan, because I want to be able to control and maybe cool down the chamber temperature if needed.
In the next parts I will show my results, a problem I ran into and some of my thoughts about it.

to be continued...

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>>2989010
here are my results and a few things that I noticed. First thing that caught my eye was the rapid cooling down of the mainboard. It seems as if the cooling fan starts when the board reaches 70°C. It seems as if that's when the mainboard fan sets in.
But back to the results. As expected, the more insulation, the warmer the interior (big surprise, I know). But I also noticed the huge gap between the extruder and chamber thermistors. Heat rises, so it was to be expected to be warmer in the center right above the bed. Besides that, the chamber ntc is right at the back wall.
So let's focus on the extruder temperature first. Since it's in the middle of the chamber and that's where my prints will be most of the time.
At the beginning we had 17,9°C for the first 2 setups and 19,1°C at the third setup. This gap was pretty much closed in the first 10 minutes or so. So I don't think that the difference in the beginning had a big influence on the final results.
But we can see a clear trend. My "full" insulation managed to give me 3,6°C more in the middle of the chamber.
Remember that this is only the case for this setup. Nothing movies, so no heat from the motors. The hotend isn't heating either. And the bed is lowered almost to the bottom.
So in a real world application, I would expect my temperature gains to be even larger because the influence of this modification seems to scale with rising temperatures.
In addition to that, it seems as if my mainboard managed to stay roughly 1,5°C cooler too. A small gap and only really visible from the "no bottom insulation" to the "any bottom insulation". It even seems as if the temperature of the mainboard starts to rise again at the end of my first test setup. The rising heat from the chamber might have played a role in it. It seems plausible, but for now, it might as well just be a coincidence. More tests are needed, but I can't be bothered to further investigate this.

to be continued...

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>>2989011
Now my last issue was the discrepancy between the extruder temperature and the chamber temperature. The readings at room temperature are pretty spot on but then they just drift apart. I put in another probe that I had laying around, just to be sure. I put it close to the extruder and both temperatures were pretty much the same.
Then I put it closer to the chamber thermistor and I lost a few Kelvin. But that's ok, because I wasn't directly above the bed anymore. Still almost a 10°C gap to the chamber thermistor. In my last test setup I even had some insulation between the tip of the thermistor and the back wall. Still the same, or an even larger gap. So it probably wasn't just the back wall that was causing this issue.
Now I finally got the chamber thermistor out of its wall bracket und put it together with my extra probe that has a little screw hole in it. So one thermistor was fucking the other thermistor. And suddenly the difference went downt to less than 3°C.
It seems as if the direct contact with the back wall, together with the position in the corner of 2 cable channels is less than optimal. That's why I designed a little thermistor bracket that goes into the wall bracket and reaches 3cm into the chamber.
I set everything up again. Bed down to -200mm, heating up to 100°C. Added my additional probe at a point roughly between extruder and chamber thermistor. And then I had it running until it reached equilibrium.
The results are:
>extruder thermistor: 52,6°C
>extra thermistor: 50,5°C
>chamber thermistor: 47°C
now the readings of the chamber temperature somewhat resembles the actual chamber temperature at the printing area. A difference of 5°C is something I can live with. I just have to keep in mind that this reading is more or less the lower end of the chamber temperature.

to be continued...

>>2989012
In conclusion, I consider this project a success.
I was able to reliably raise the chamber temperature, while also getting more accurate readings too.
There are things I could improve, but first I will observe the printing results of my new setup.
In the future I might put some insulation on the glass door too. Or cover the vents on the top raiser with a towel. It's obviously not air tight, so there are still small gaps, even with vents closed. A towel could also cover the top part of the metal frame that seems to acts as a sort of heat sink.
For now it seems as if the active chamber heater isn't necessary for my target temperature. Maybe if I want to reduce the time it takes to heat up the chamber, or if I want to print with a low bed and high chamber temperature.

I got root access to my K1C and I am running Mainsail for the visualization over my browser. I looked into the printer.cfg and some other configs, but I couldn't find the conditions for the mainboard cooling fan. It starts at 70°C.
I wanted the cooling fan to start at maybe 50°C. I am not in the same room as the printer, so noise is not an issue. But maybe a lower peak temperature will be easier on the electronics. Especially electrolytic caps don't like heat all that much.
Does anyone know a good solution for tuning the mainboard cooling? Something not too invasive. Even though it's probably a non issue and I worry too much.
Thanks for everyone that's still with me. Your mother will live a long and prosperous life.

>>2988885
With steel you should be fine

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>>2988969
>Try using some manners so that you don't sound offensive to people.
Hey now, please don't be a faggot.

>>2989004
This anon is correct, those fittings break all the time so it's worth it to have a bunch of backups

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Following on from >>2988854 got my test print out in PLA, I did manage to squeeze it in with a bit of force required, I'd imagine it would snap eventually with PLA but the plan is to do the final piece in PETG anyways.
The camera has ever so slight black borders all around the edges so just need to make the front and back ever so slightly thinner.
Have to figure out an easy way to assemble the lid for the board without the need of tools, there is three M3 mounting holes for the board.
Also need to find a way to route a usb c cable.
Other various improvements needed but happy with how it turned out
>>2988928
Yeah I'll take a look into stress testing it in freecad and see how it holds up, that'll be interesting to do
I did print it laying flat so I think that's the most appropriate for this use I'd imagine
>>2988934
I did make the back of it completely flush, didn't make any sense not to anyways indeed. I don't mind printing supports and they popped off pretty easy so I let it be

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>>2989030
Is there a better way to mount this camera?
The box I have isn't magnetic and the suction mounts seem to loosen up eventually so I'm a bit weary taking this out on the road and not having to constantly worry about it.
I know I have some rails there but having a hard time imagining what I could use to mount onto it

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>>2989031
Here's an expensive and stupid way to do it
but it will be a lot more secure than whatever you have going on with those suction cups

>>2989004
>Amazon sells these for like $5 for a pack of ten.
>>2989020
>This anon is correct, those fittings break all the time so it's worth it to have a bunch of backups
Amazon isn't ideal where I am, the shipping gets complicated and it's slow.
I found them and ordered them, allegedly with next day delivery though I'm sceptical, just everywhere I want to order them, they're $1 each and the minimum order is $10-$20.
I found some other shit on their store I can probably use and added a few spares like you said.

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>>2989049
if you need it once because it broke, youll need it again because it will break again. $10 is so inconsequential, what a bizarre thing to fuss over.

>>2989031
is the end of that pole threaded? you could screw it into a piece of wood with one of picrel on the other side of it and then ziptie the wood to the rails.

>>2989052
>if you need it once because it broke, youll need it again because it will break again. $10 is so inconsequential, what a bizarre thing to fuss over.
I wasn't fussing over it, just trying to find one where I didn't have to buy 20 of them, or even 10.
I've had this printer running a few years and this is the first time I've broken one, it's not a regular occurrence, a couple of spares should do me for longer than the printer will last.
What fuss I am making is because I'm in volunteer work and not earning income right now, it makes me tight fisted, an instinct from growing up poor.

Did any poor soul here ever successfully print ASA on an open frame bedslinger without enclosure? I need to print an outdoor component for my old man. Also, does ASA adhere well to textured PEI or do I need to interpose a layer of PLA?

>>2989054
Not without enclosure, no.

However, the outdoor thing is a meme, PLA will survive just fine under sunlight. for a decade or more.

>>2989054
I printed nylon on an open bed that topped out at 50ºC. The trick is to point a space heater at it. Good luck.

>>2989056
>PLA will survive just fine under sunlight. for a decade or more.
actually about 3 years in direct sunlight from my own experience at least

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>>2989047
This looks rock solid for sure at least, thanks for the idea.
The suction mounts are pretty good, I can get up to motorway speeds with it on the car without any worry but yeah just for this surface, ain't the best
>>2989052
Only the top is threaded to go into the camera. Depending on which stick I want to use, one have like a gopro style one and the other has a 1/4" mount at the bottom. I get the idea though, I guess would need a male to male adapter for that to work. Just wondering if the pole would be stable enough just relying solely on the 6mm it's threaded into that

>>2988997
Ever been to /po/?

>>2989054
Do a skirt, but up to the top layer. Keep your bed at 120, or as hot as your machine allows. Make sure layer times are even. Don't stand near this thing, best kept in a garage till it's done. Fumes aren't just stinky jokes. If you let it run in a living room open your windows for at least two hours till you can't smell anything of it anymore.

>>2989085
>Ever been to /po/?
They're not the quietest but only because they get confused /pol/tards blowing in.

>>2989014
Neat stuff, though I skimmed half of it. Did you install a fan blowing air at the underside of your heated bed? That's a technique often used to get the chamber to heat up quicker, by working the heated bed harder.

>>2989031
I'd just drill holes into the box to mount something that you can thread the mount directly into.

>>2989054
From what I hear, it should be feasible if it's got a fat brim, is a part low to the bed, and you print it with a hot bed and a draft-shield. Buying some carbon-fibre ASA will have additional warp-resistance.

>>2989085
>/po/
Ah, yeah that probably takes the cake. On the bright side, I visited /3/ and saw some guy trying to rig a skeleton such that the movement of 4+ sets of breasts looked natural.

>>2989095
>a draft-shield
aka a cardboard box

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>>2989109
I meant pic related

>>2989127
oh that's new to me. new things are stupid. that's stupid.

>>2989133
it's the skirt loop made to have as many layers as the model is tall.
it doesn't really work.

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this thing is pretty neat, I told myself I wouldnt print too many nick knacks but here we are, I think il make all my 3d printed equipment dummy 13 scale.

does anyone have a example of bambu lab sunflower yellow, there arent many pics of it online, does it look close to the forklift? im running out of this mustard yellow PLA and its sorta pricy.

Also, 2 weeks with the X2D and i have some problems, the AMS doesn't always properly feed, it has like a less than 5% failure rate on slot 1 which can get annoying, this is apparently semi common and im hoping a firmware update fixes it. Also getting some adhesion errors but thats honestly probably user error on my part.

>>2989156
what? are you talking about the dummy 13? i never said its PLA, the frame is petg as recommended

>>2989157
oh nvm

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Is it normal for flow and speed to be reduced when there's less stuff to print on higher layers?

>>2989008
>(I think the K1C's camera has problems above 55°C).
Yeah, it's really annoying. It also tends to fog if you use glue.
Thanks for posting all of this. When I need to print things like PC-CF I have to point a space heater directly at my printer and wait at least one hour for the chamber to get to temp. And obviously since this introduces a lot of thermal expansion I have to run through a bunch of calibration steps just to start printing.
IIRC I also had to raise the max bed temp in a cfg file to get above 100C.
Did you do something to level your bed? That's something I really need to do on mine but I'm laaaaazy.
For the fan I think I remember seeing a way to control it by setting a GPIO pin high. Or you could just replace it with a 24V server fan and connect it directly to the PSU

>>2989155
I thought that was a real post when I read it last thread, is it actually pasta?

>>2989159
Caused by the setting: minimum layer time. I suspect the idea is to prevent the printed parts being above their effective heat-deflection temperature when the next layer is printed over the top. I know printing too hot too fast can result in shitty overhangs and maybe even dimensional inaccuracy. If you have a powerful part-cooling setup like HeroMe it's probably fine to turn the setting down.

>>2989167
Ah I see, thanks. It doesn't seem to have a huge effect on overall print time so I'll keep it at the default value.

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>>2989095
>Did you install a fan blowing air at the underside of your heated bed?
Not yet. I've seen this mod and it seems like a good idea for a poor-mans-active-chamber-heater.
Usually I heat up the bed for 20 minutes. It's not wasted time either because I usually wipe down the bed with IPA, load the filament and slice my models during that time. So I've got a nice and uniform target temperature all over the bed before calibrating the adaptive bed mesh so it's done warping from the heat change.
Today I fucked around a little bit, so it was heating up for probably more than 30 minutes or so. And I am already above 48°C for the first layer. The first couple of layers are so close to the bed anyway that it's probably way hotter too. So the elevated chamber temperature will come into play later. For now further modifications don't seem to be necessary for my personal workflow. But I will keep it in the back of my head if things change or if I will not get the desired results.

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>>2989163
>When I need to print things like PC-CF I have to point a space heater directly at my printer and wait at least one hour for the chamber to get to temp.
What is your desired target temperature for these materials? Also, did you run into any issues regarding the stepper motors? I've seen people adding some additional heat sinks to their motors for cooling.

>I also had to raise the max bed temp in a cfg file to get above 100C.
I was playing with that idea too, while scrolling through the configs. I think 110°C should be ok without killing anything on its pcb. What max bed temps are you running?

>Did you do something to level your bed?
Yeah, I mean it wasn't horribly unusable, but it wasn't good either. I was kinda lucke, because the left and right z-axis rods were pretty level already. Just the back rod fell down like a slope. First I removed to bottom plate of the case to work on it. While fucking a little bit with the belt tension, I was able to make the z-axis belt skip individual teeth for each rod. Then reassemble everything, heat it up again, run the auto bed calibration and check the readings again. I repeated this more ofthen than I like to admit. It was fucking tedious and made me almost go crazy. So I've got full sympathy for your laziness. In the end it wasn't possible for my printer to go below a 0,2mm difference across the bed. So I added one of those little leveling spacers made from ASA and now I am below 0,15mm most of the time. At one point the warping at different temperatures becomes larger than the overall height difference, so it will never be perfect anyway, but I am happy now. I also changed the factory bed resolution from 5x5 to 6x6. Just a little bit higher resolution for a few more seconds. I am running an adaptive bed mesh most of the time anyway.
So my advice is, use those little spacers from the start. Maybe it's a little less elegant, but so much more convenient.

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>>2989175
>What is your desired target temperature for these materials?
At least 60°, I think that was the recommendation on the filament.
>Also, did you run into any issues regarding the stepper motors?
I don't think so, but I had a lot of print failures so this might be related
>What max bed temps are you running?
I pushed it to 125°, haven't had any issues but I think my longest print was around 5 hours. I wouldn't trust it for overnight printing with no supervision.
>So my advice is, use those little spacers from the start. Maybe it's a little less elegant, but so much more convenient.
I'll try that, thanks.

>>2989166
if you post something just before a thread dies and no one looks at it, its completely fair game to re post it in a new thread, why the fuck would i turn that into a copypasta

Let me get this out the way
Lurk more
wow it sure is summer
look we got a tourist

>>2989182
It was a long way before the end of the thread, I assumed that nobody knew the answer to your question.

Garolite is seriously a magical print bed material. I am printing PLA, ASA, and PC-PBT on the same bed with no adhesives.

>>2989187
>Garolite is seriously a magical print bed material. I am printing PLA, ASA, and PC-PBT on the same bed with no adhesives.
Have you tried PETG?

I've only printed PETG, PLA and various forms of PLA+ on my Anycubic Kobra Max.
There's been very few bed adhesion issues, PETG is fine if I crank the bed temp to max (only 80c but usually enough) and eliminate drafts.
PLA actually adheres too well and causes loads of trouble removing but peeling off during a print is never, ever a problem. PETG can rarely but I think it's just drafts.

It's so "not a problem" that I've destroyed parts hammering PLA off with a mallet and damaged the coating from ripping PLA off it and am low-key looking for a replacement for when it gets too bad.

>>2989189
>>2989190
I've never printed PETG, so I can't say. Though I doubt it'll be an issue.

>>2989194
>I've never printed PETG, so I can't say. Though I doubt it'll be an issue.
If you haven't printed it on it then I think you can't say with any authority.
Different filaments, different beds, different results.

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>>2989196

>>2989199
>is the AI accurate?
Neither you nor I know.

>>2989201
It provided links. Here's a few:
https://hackaday.com/2021/10/13/g10-is-the-3d-print-surface-you-crave/
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/g-10-bed-for-petg.175165/

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>>2989173
just finished the first part of a larger ASA+ print with my new setup. Textured PEI plate at 100°C, no additional adhesive, no rim nor mouse ears. The chamber temperature was between 50 to maybe 57°C max. There is still a little bit of upwards curving around the edges but for a functionla print it will be ok. pic related is the bottom view of the first layer.

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>>2989202
>It provided links. Here's a few:
Thanks anon.

bambulabs is at it again.

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>>2989226

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Tried to practice some glazing on a throwaway print.
>>2989226
It hasnt even been A YEAR
The chang just cant keep it in his pantents.

>>2989226
What happened now?

>>2989243
They're sending out cease and desists to forks of software that they don't even own, threatening serious legal action.

Is $350 for a "used but well-maintained" Prusa MK4S a good deal?

>>2989240
>glazing
as in pottery, right?

>>2989255
By the looks of it, the orca guy might cuck out.
This should be a pretty clear and quick court case, but bambu can just buy the judges so the law doesn't matter.

>>2989054
I have printed rectangular object about 4"x6"x1" out of ASA on an unenclosed Prusa Mini. Just get an enclosure (aka cardboard box).

>>2989255
As I understand they're mad at a guy allegedly reverse engineering their proprietary network plugin that allows orca users to send prints through the cloud.

A walled garden ecosystem owner going after people that use it in a way that wasn't "approved".
Shocker.

Bambu owners will defend that behaviour since their machine "just works" (tm).

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>>2989262
No, as in "Painting with very thin paint"

>>2989297
Some big ass high detail thing with 0.2mm nozzle?

>>2989300
Big ass high detail thing with 0.4mm nozzle

>>2989303
well, 3.33mm/s isn't that much. What kind of material are you printing?

>>2989240
where da nipple slip

>>2989308
PC-PBT. No additives.

>rafts solve my issue of part warping, unsticking from the bottom and just fucking it all up
>rafts are also impossible to remove cleanly from the bed
Why must I suffer?

>>2989317
I refuse to use them, they're either hard to remove from the bed or hard to clean up on the part.
If it needs additional adhesion then it's brim only.
I've never needed mouse-ears but I suppose I could tolerate that if I really had to.

>>2989317
>>2989318
Try using bed temps 10C higher than usual.

>>2989319
Does that address removal afterwards or peeling-during printing?

>>2989319
Can't on my K1C, creality caps the temp at 100C.
I hate creality so much its unreal.
>>2989321
It addresses the part not sticking to the plate. On machines that let you do it, it's the perfect solution. I imagine that could lead to more warping if you cool it down too fast due to the larger temperature gradient but other than that, works wonders.

>>2989322
>It addresses the part not sticking to the plate
Thanks anon

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>>2989322
>creality caps the temp at 100C.

>>2989330
2025 model?

>>2989331
I think so. Did they disable root on newer ones?

>>2989332
They did, those bastards.

>>2989333
Wow that's retarded. I guess I got lucky when I bought mine.
Apparently there's a root exploit but I don't know if it allows you to mess with printer.cfg.

>>2989334
I've been keeping an eye on that. It's the same as yours, basically, but they fucked up the ssh access and sandboxed it. They got to the point where they could access it but since it's sandbox, the root got wiped on reboot. Supposedly there's some people who managed to get it right but it's all too new and a bit experimental they're not putting it all on their oficial guide and everything and I'm not about to dick around with something I can't afford to brick right now.
And yeah, it's fucking retarded. Their software is fucked up every which way and the firmware for their new multi filament module is retarded. After installing it now takes like 20 minutes to calibrate the stupid thing before printing, it's ridiculous.
Would absolutely not recommend this thing for anyone. Their hardware is fine, but the software is completely fucked, if you get one, make sure it's an older model with root and good support.

>>2989240
that's quite the print. don't forget you don't have to print them base down

>>2989255
>>2989283
Oh for fuck sake, why is Bambu doing this stupid corporate shit? I used to be on the "my next printer will be a Bambu", but at this point I'm hoping for Prusa to get their shit together and make a Core One with a proper print volume, now that it supports INDX

>>2989344
>why is Bambu doing this stupid corporate shit?
Because they're a shitty corporation, stupid.

Done my own research and I have my eye on Ender-3 V3 KE 3D Printer
the only prints i'll be doing are from the internet and small-medium prints, can anyone recommend?

Is there a slicer that can put a bunch of different objects on runners?

>>2989352
what?

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That was a long print. Head is loose and the torso is a bit fucked but I'll replace those with my own sculpts

>>2989357
You've never built plastic models? It's a frame that holds the different parts together.

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witness the newest 3in1 technology in camping stove transportation devices.
>stable ASA outdoor container
>folds open - larger footprint - doesn't tip over
>2 legged tent pegs for stability and a larger cooking area

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>>2989352
that sounds like something thatd only be available in a resin printing slicer, but i doubt any of them support that ootb. it shouldnt be difficult to model runners manually. this took about a minute in blender, and then you would boolean it with your parts (which you can even do in your slicer). even better, you could make a bunch of generic runner stls and assemble them in the slicer. dunno why youd ever want to do that for fdm parts though.

>>2989344
Because not being able to send prints through the cloud strongly incentivizes anyone with a Bambu printer to use the slicer they control.
It's only a matter of time before they start enshittifying it. My bet is that Bambu will be among the first to integrate 3D model analysis that stops the print if it's gun shaped.

>>2989358
would

>>2989344
Because capitalism
(No, communism doesn't work either)

Are the fumes that come off 3d printing really that harmful or is it just reddit hysteria?

>>2989375
>Are the fumes that come off 3d printing really that harmful or is it just reddit hysteria?
I printed a benchy and now I'm ordering programmer socks online.

I hate the PETG sheen.

>>2989387
oy vey

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>>2989386
It's the same as soldering fumes, you don't want to have your printer right beside your bed (the noise alone wouldn't make you want that) but if you only print it occasionally and the window is open, it's perfectly fine to stick around. You not the tiny fairy inside the printer operating the controls, she's the one who has to worry about this stuff.

>support Z distance 0.4mm
>still super hard to remove
>horrible spaghetti mess under what they were supposed to support
That's it, I'm getting a resin printer.

>>2989398
>you don't want to have your printer right beside your bed (the noise alone wouldn't make you want that)
My printer is against the wall in the next room, I fall asleep to the whir and clunk of it changing direction.
It's relaxing.

>>2989405
behold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBGl4i668Tg
you can do it manually too.

>>2989410
I wonder if this only works for flat surfaces or if you could do it on round lines too.

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>>2989411
if you're willing to do it for every single layer, yeah.
But I've found far more use when I know that I'm making something that will otherwise be an absolute bitch to separate.

>>2989412
I was mostly thinking about the bleed over onto other lines, that would impact a lot of the detailed bits no?

>>2989413
worked well enough.
wouldn't risk supports that close on things that have thin walls anyways.>>2988857

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>>2989359
no wind protection?

also unless you're backpacking, in which case that stove is already too big, you might as well just get a good camping stove.

>>2989333
Is this not somehow a violation of the GPL? I guess the same applies to samsung phones that prevent root access.

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I need to add a chamber heater to my Bambu X1C to print ABS. I'm thinking about using this guy's easy-peasy method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuuyrffuF30

Except that it turns out the "Inkbird" temperature controller apparently uses a mechanical relay (one reviewer said it clicks when it turns on/off, and solid-state relays don't do that).

So I want to use a RasPi with a temperature sensor and a solid-state relay board. Yes I know it's ridiculous overkill, no I don't give a fuck, I have a stack of Pi's sitting on my bookshelf doing nothing and the other parts are cheap.

The PTC heater he uses is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07573FKSG
which claims to be 200W.

The problem I'm running into is that the solid-state relay boards for the Pi all seem to use the Omron G3MB-202P which is only rated for 2A at 110VAC.

Is that sufficient margin to allow a 200W heater to run on it or am I risking burning the relay board up?

I've dug around for a few hours and cannot find a single Pi relay board that uses solid-state relays other than that one; every other one that I find is a mechanical relay board and I don't want those because they eventually weld themselves closed and then burn down your house.

>>2989430
BTW this is the solid-state relay board I was looking at using:
https://www.pishop.us/product/5v-4-channel-ssr-solid-state-relay-high-level-trigger-2a-240v/

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something's fucky.

>>2989430
Can't you just use a solid state relay bodged into that inkbird controller? Or use a different solid state relay with a raspi?

>I have a stack of Pi's sitting on my bookshelf doing nothing
If they're 4s and 5s, sell them. Prices have gone up recently.
It needs a Pi Pico at most.

>>2989428
It is, but who's got the money to sue them over it?

>>2989441
even worse, who's got the money (besides rossman) to fight cease and desists?

>>2989398
What if it's just PLA?

>>2989455
How would that make a difference? Because PLA fumes are less smelly?
Smelly filament (and resin) is actually better since they serve as an early warning for insufficient ventilation.

>>2989358
>>2989371
has anyone made a 3d printed life sized sex doll?

>>2989457
Nta but I know that you can get poisoning from breathing ABS/ASA.
As far as I know, PLA fumes aren't too bad, though you're still breathing shit in.
I can personally confirm that living in a 100ft2 room with a 3D printer worsened my seasonal allergies.

Long story short, you probably won't fuck yourself up by printing PLA in the bedroom.
Opening a window every once in a while and/or running an air filter is a good idea.
Enclosing a printer and filtering the exhaust is better.

I am still regularly mind-blown that I can take any 3D model I can conjure up and have a mini-factory build it for me in incredible detail in basically no time. This sort of technology would've been insane to have as I was growing up.

>>2989458
People have been printing life size human body models for years. Making one into a sex doll wouldn't be that big of a leap.

If you're thinking of doing it for your lonely ass, just don't. You're looking at hundreds of hours of print time and hundreds of dollars in filament, all for a result that's going to be much worse than a commercially available doll.

>>2989463
It is an insane tool for solving super specific problems on a small scale.
If it's a common problem, there are probably prenty of commercial solutions that are cheaper and/or better. There is definitely a lot of "everything looks like a nail" going on when you're new to the hobby.
Hell, I still print shit I should have bought for the sake of going on an ADHD side quest and fucking around.

>>2989430
>>2989433
your solid-state relay board seems to have 4 channels. Each one has a relay that's rated for up to 2A.
Without looking too much into it, but can't you just, you know, put 2 channels in parallel? This should be able to eat the higher peak current while turning the heater on.

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>>2989420
had this stove around anyway and the balance, or lack thereof, annoyed me for quite some time now. It was mostly used for music festivals and was stored in its original cardboard box. Originally I got the tent pegs to fix it to the ground, but then I got the idea to quickly design something in CAD for it and it kind of spiraled out of control. At least it was good as an excercise to improve on my CAD skills.

>>2989465
it would save you from customs and postmen looking at you funny though

>>2989477
You can stumble through an awkward interaction just fine.
In my opinion, if you decided you need a sex doll, you've already given up on being a normal person, so who cares if you'll get a weird look or two.
Be brave and chase your degenerate dreams lmao

>>2989465
>You're looking at hundreds of hours of print time and hundreds of dollars in filament, all for a result that's going to be much worse than a commercially available doll.
Now a cucumber washer would be way easier to print.

>>2989438
I was planning on using a Pi Zero.

>>2989473
I dunno, is that safe? I'm not really into electricity. Do I just use a pair of Y-connector leads from two of the relays into each of the legs on the heater's plug?

>>2989469
There are lots of uncommon problems for which it's great to have a 3D printer. I repaired a shitty Thai-made suitcase's wheels by replacing both shittty axles with a single continuous rod and 3D-printing spacers that put skateboard bearings into the actual wheels while the spacers slipped over the axle.

Fucking TSA smashed it on my last trip so I have to reprint one of the supports and cut the axle shorter. Maybe this time I won't put balls on the ends of the axle, just let the bare metal chew into the next TSA asshole who tries that shit.

>>2989442
I don't think this case is egregious enough for rossman to cover it. At the end of the day, you still have access to the printer even if it's gimped to shit because they need more money. If he did, it would be just to put out a bounty for it.

>>2989493
I thought the comment was about the bambu situation, hadn't realized it was creality shennanigans.
Disregard.

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>>2989490
This is how I would do it. Just twist and solder a short cable to your mains and signal cables and bridge them to the second channel. Make sure that those cables are rated for the voltage and current. Also adding a fuse won't hurt you either.
Rule number one, don't get yourself killed and don't burn down your house. If you are an electronics rookie go and ask someone personal that knows his shit. I don't want to be at fault for getting you killed.

My hot end is more or less dead, is there any compiled info anywhere on what hotends are compatible with what printers?

>>2989512
Aliexpress. Search "[printer] hotend".

If you're adventurous, you can also nigger rig anything onto anything.

>>2989513
>Aliexpress. Search "[printer] hotend".
>If you're adventurous, you can also nigger rig anything onto anything.
I was trying to avoid the downtime that aliexpress requires.
I was wondering what the ribbon cable compatibility was, I'm sure the pinout isn't uniform and I don't know what hotends have the sensors that the mobo requires.

Anyway, I can find it but it's €70.
Or for €500, I can just buy a new one that's several models newer and has multifilament etc.
Several parts of it broke all at the same time so maybe I should just recognise that it's fucking fucked big time and retire it.

>>2989516
>I was trying to avoid the downtime
Aight
>printer
>hotend
>issue
>attempts already taken at fixing it
I'm an automation tech by trade, let me help.

>>2989516
>>2989518
Also, pics of what's broken.

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>>2989518
>I'm an automation tech by trade, let me help.
It's probably not worth your trouble but this is the thread for it so here's my blog entry.

>be me
>be part of volunteer printing project
>quality control reviewer says acceptable quality but maybe I have a partially clogged nozzle or something due to cosmetic defects
>using '22 Kobra Max
>has some miles on it
>look at how to fix this
>try cold pull
>fuck pneumatic fitting
>replace pneumatic fitting
>now filament sometimes fails to feed
>needs help to remove even
>remove bowden tube
>test with filament
>has rough spot near one end, at the pneumatic fitting
>appears I lightly fucked bowden tube when replacing or removing pneumatic fitting
>or when I fucked it the first time
>no worries, I ordered a spare when I ordered the pneumatic fitting
>replace bowden tube
>remember that hotend light hasn't been lit recently
>inspect hot end
>nozzle fully clogged
>remove nozzle, it's fucking clogged big time
>have a spare somewhere but inspect hot end
>also clogged
>use filament removal to heat the hot end to try and flush it with filament or needle
>temperature error
>inspect hotend
>corrosion, heat damage, all sorts of shit

From the 0/0c (next pic), I guess that the temperature sensor must be fucked, maybe I've just nudged the plug, I'll inspect it later.
I think I ought to just replace the whole hot end but the bed is also lightly damage in two places and I'm sure something else will fail sooner or later.
Maybe I should just bite the bullet and replace the whole thing, I'd get multi-filament out of it if nothing else.

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>>2989520
>Also, pics of what's broken.
This is what I'm getting, I guess the temperature sensor is fucked, it wasn't before I removed the hood on the hotend.
I might have just pulled the plug out or maybe when I pried a bit plastic lump off the top, I took something important with it.

My issue with aliexpress is that my printer will be down for a few weeks waiting for them to ship it.
I did find a hotend locally but it's not dirt cheap so it makes a new printer look more attractive and I could probably have that in 24 hours.

>>2989528
Oh yeah, all that brown stuff...after I got the thermal hood off, I had to pry a bunch of petg off that. That's probably what caused the corrosion or whatever that is.

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>>2989528
>>2989529
Yeah the thermistor's fucked. Not much to do other than replace the thermistor or hotend. Bypassing it would lead to thermal runaway and eventually your printer would catch on fire. Sorry, you gotta have to wait for the spare parts or buy a new printer.

>>2989528
>>2989529
the first thing that I would do is clean this shit up with some IPA and some q-tips. If you are lucke you only got a bad connection. Do you have any way to measure that NTC with a multimeter? To see if the resistance is somewhat in the right ball park? If you did not damage the cable of the thermistor (that includes some internal breakage) I doubt that the NTC itself is broken. Maybe your bed thermistor has the same connection. You could swap them to see if you can get some readings on your hotend with the bed ntc and vice versa, if they are of the same type of course.

>>2989261
great actually, in my cuntree a used mk4s is at least 500€

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>>2989542
>Do you have any way to measure that NTC with a multimeter? To see if the resistance is somewhat in the right ball park? If you did not damage the cable of the thermistor (that includes some internal breakage) I doubt that the NTC itself is broken
I...I'm not entirely confident in my technical skills because this started with me fucking up my pneumatic coupling trying to do a cold pull.
I know a shit load more about software than I do hardware and it shows.
Now, I do actually have a multimeter in the cupboard and I kindasorta know how to use it so I guess I can give it a shot and maybe get another six months of life out of this printer.

I found the replacement for ~€500 and it's in my cart but I'll spend half a day clumsily fucking around with a multimeter and see if I can diagnose something.
Thanks for the advice anon.

>>2989553
sometimes shit's not broken. I don't know how many times I cross-swapped a "broken" component during troubleshooting, expecting the fault to change from one device to the other. And in the end both were working just fine and I couldn't recreate the original failure. Shit's more infuriating than an actual broken part.
And if this shit doesn't work out, at least you'll improve on your hardware skills. Troubleshooting is a great way to learn about hardware imho.

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>>2988818
Hi, all. I'm very new to 3D printing and mechanical engineering in general. I'm mostly /ohm/. Do you use calipers in your daily 3D printing workflow to make enclosures and stuff? Which would you recommend for a beginner? I don't need ultra precision or anything.

>>2989554
>sometimes shit's not broken. I don't know how many times I cross-swapped a "broken" component during troubleshooting, expecting the fault to change from one device to the other. And in the end both were working just fine and I couldn't recreate the original failure. Shit's more infuriating than an actual broken part.
I've encountered that a few times in software too, where it should be impossible.

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>>2989574
>Do you use calipers in your daily 3D printing workflow to make enclosures and stuff?

>>2989574
No, I use a 3d printer to make enclosures.

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death blob from plebbit

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>>2989579
>>2989580
So there's no need to measure things super precisely then? Thanks, that saves me some bucks. I'll stick to my ruler. Cheers.

>>2989582
Garbage in, garbage out.
If your model is all fucked up, the printer will attempt to do exactly what you told it to, even if it's retarded. Like any manufacturing process, it has a tolerance plus you have to account for warping and thermal expansion, contraction, over/under extrusion and other such failures.
I measure shit with a caliper.

>>2989574
>>2989582
You can buy chink digital calipers for 5 bucks on amazon, you aren't engineering rockets so its fine to use cheap measurement tools.

Anyone ever get bad filament? I have this hinged mechanism on one of my prints. Its a pretty tight fit and I have probably run 500+ rolls in like 4 colors from a couple different manufacturers. I don't switch up the manufacturers or print settings or anything. Its all just standard pla. So far I have had a bad roll of pink a couple times from esun, and two rolls back to back of creality jade green this week.

The pin that the female end sits on just basically melts. Have made literally thousands of these parts and havent changed a thing. My only conclusion is that the filament is bad. I could tweak the design a little bit, but I think im just getting shit filament every once in a while. What could be causing the bad filament? Chinese just cutting corners?

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>>2989582
These are the calipers I use. The caliper precision is not my bottleneck. My tolerance issues come from the printer, color of plastic, manufacturer of plastic, inconsistency of plastic batches, temperature in print environment, humidity of environment.

I am probably at 100-200 microns of tolerance typically. I sometimes swing outside of these ranges, but the calipers are not the issue. Im thinking my biggest issue for tolerances are temperature, humidity, and whatever cheap chink plastic I received that week. The 1-400 micron swing is not an issue of your calipers.

>>2989581
homodeathblob

>>2989554
Nta
>extruder on my cobbled together mess of a printer started clicking and skipping steps
>assumed the $5 motor has finally eaten itself and replaced it
>naturally had to make an adapter since all motors have different connectors for whatever reason
>new motor stumbles and underextrudes
>wiggling the wire harness makes it worse

I hate when something like this happens.
The factory wiring has been working just fine for years. There are no obvious spots where anything was pinched or rubbing.
Other wires in the same harness might be about to go as well, so realistically I now need to redo the whole thing.

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>>2989601
I have some like those and I hate to use them as they're heavy and I feel like they're going to gouge everything. I use my $10 plastic amazon calipers multiple times a day and on every project. Even when I'm just making something from scratch I pull them out to see if like 40 or 50mm looks right. But yeah my plastic boys are more precise than the printer so it's enough. It's the same with my pocket knives, I like a good knife but not so expensive I won't use it.

>>2989574
Yes. Used to use verniers, but cheap verniers have an offset that makes them kinda infuriating. So just get a cheap digital set. IIRC AvE was buying Mititoyo brand digital callipers for $20 on Amazon, no clue if that’s still a thing.
I generally make a measurement and add a fudge factor of 0.2mm for each face.

>>2989593
Bad batch, it happens. Might be able to get a refund if you have a good enough relationship with your supplier.

If you print that much, it might be worth looking into a method for roll validation. Be that a quick little tensile/creep test on a cut piece of filament, or some burning or spectroscopic method.

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>>2989611
>they're heavy

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>>2989582
digital calipers are great, especially if youre doing stuff with heatset inserts or screws and dont want to remember metric sizes. its also worth printing out some transfer calipers for larger rough dimensions or stuff thats awkward to measure like body parts or curved surfaces, or too large for the digital calipers. screw them together with enough tension so they keep their position, then measure them with a tape or a mat.

>>2989593
yeah I reordered my favorite roll ever and the replacement was shit. I've also had really bad luck with double roll deals so I stick to singles.

>>2989614
my litmus test is if it consistently prints like shit

>>2989611
I love that they are heavy and feel like they are going to gouge everything. Pretty sure I have gouged some shit with it too lol. Use them all the time, they sit right next to me on my desk. Think I have already replaced the batteries on them I use them so much.

>>2989614
Yeah the bad batch happens but very rare. Also get some bullshit like them being sold out on amazon, but it can be direct ordered from their web store. Other random bullshit like orders being delayed days or going to order and the estimated ship date is weeks so just order on their website. Prices have gone up too. Roll validation is not a bad idea, but it would have to be very quick and efficient. I have 13 printers running and sometimes just wake up and swap out a spool in the middle of my sleep and throw the trash on the floor. Last thing I want to do is wake up and start doing qc checks on chinese filament.

>>2989617
Pretty sure I ordered a case of like 6 rolls and all of them were junk from the same batch. I really want to know what they are doing wrong? Are they just cutting virgin material with more and more filler to see what they can get away with? It is very annoying and im hoping the creality m1 isn't a huge piece of shit and can make useable filament. I need to get the chinks out of my supply chain more and more.

>>2989643
Forgot to mention I also get color consistency issues. Some of the colors will be a shade or two darker/lighter, even had some pink that was a completely different pink. Have also had them send the wrong color in the right labeled box. QC costs a few extra pennies so the Chinese will skip it. Seems like recently they started sending out smaller desiccant packs in their spools. The poly bags are next to go when they reduce the mil thickness on them. These guys play at fractions of a cent if it means they make $7000 extra a year at the cost of pissing off their customers.

>>2989643
>it would have to be very quick and efficient
I'm thinking something like this:
>cut off approximately 10cm of filament
>clamp ends in jaws of machine with quick-release clamps
>push button
>machine applies force in maybe 10N (~1kg) increments, stepping up after ~3 seconds
>filament should snap at about 150N
>look at readout to compare batch tensile strength and short-term creep
Would need a custom machine, but it's pretty doable with an arduino, load-cell, and lead-screw + stepper assembly. Maybe a guide rod. Assuming you can't just buy one.
Might also be handy for it to do the same test with a temperature controlled enclosure, so you can set it to 30C or 50C to examine thermal strength curves.

>>2989644
>color consistency issues
Get one of those hueforge colour checking machines. I think you just insert a piece of filament and it tells you the transparency and/or colour. Quick and easy.

>>2989582
i use one constantly.
but the majority of my printing is "heres an object that came off something, please make it hold together for 3 more jobs" so i have no idea about what clearances actually matter, so i usually need to reproduce the part exactly.

but for enclosure i honeslty just use an a4 sheet of paper, a pen, and a (2d) printer scanner.
trace the edges and holes onto the paper, scan in, set the 210/297mm of the paper when i import it to my cad and then go from there.
just make everything with enough wiggle room and you're golden, heatset inserts are GREAT at moving slightly, so if you make the hole undersized you can refine during assembly

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What's the best bang for your buck printer currently? Thinking of moving on from my A1 mini, so basically anything would be an upgrade. Is the Centauri Carbon good?
>>2989491
I repaired this floater in my dehumidifier since a hinge had snapped off, it didn't really need much spring to be fit in place so I just measured it and modeled it in the quickest and dumbest way possible and glued it together, works like a charm. Without a 3D printer I could have drilled a hole and glued a bolt of the right size in it I guess, but this feels more... elegant? Even with my half-assed approach

>>2989648
That would work I think if I was worried about the part being undera tensile load. The problem im having is I think a shear failure. Im a bit of a brainlet, but I think the two loads are different and require different testing methodologies.

>>2989648
I was considering this, but really im more concerned with the color after it prints. Was looking more into a spectrophotometer. Really what I need to do is make sure that all the parts that come off one spool stay together and its not an issue. However I will run spools dry and I will be left with some spare parts. The problem is that I can mix these parts into a new order batch but if the color is off then they do not match. I have dozens of odds and ends just sitting around that dont have a home yet. Not enough to justify the equipment yet, but eventually it will be worth it to try and find matching sets.

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Should I buy this retarded lil' thing for finishing 3D prints?

>>2989650
>What's the best bang for your buck printer currently?
Used Creality whatever off Facebook Marketplace.

>>2989650
Right now its the bambu x2d. Heated chamber for ABS, vision encoder enabled, and multi material prints for $650. Heat bed goes 10c hotter and has an active chamber heater. I see it as a buy once cry once. You are paying a little bit more, but is it worth it to cheap out over?

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>>2989652
Depends on how much sanding you need to do and how its oriented. That thing is probably for mainly putting bevels on stuff or taking something down to edge. You start getting weird geometries like needing to go inside a valley and you are screwed. I do almost zero sanding, but if I did I would probably first try out picrel, can probably find for cheaper. Never used, but it seems like it might be good for 3d printing.

>>2989656
i wonder how easy itd be to print your own tips for that thing...

I bought my first 3d printer
Elegoo saturn 16k
I mostly print trinkets for my kid which she loves
that's all just saying hi

>>2989653
you're technically right but in my case I don't want a downgrade
>>2989655
is that the one with the gimped second extruder? It certainly looks interesting, but I'm not sure I want to stay with bambulab

>>2989651
>The problem im having is I think a shear failure
It's not like they're unrelated. Tensile strength is a part of shear strength, I suspect any material deficiency you're likely to encounter that would decrease one would decrease the other too. Checking the MyTechFun spreadsheet, there is actually quite a difference in shear strengths between different filament flavours of the same base material, even with much less significant tensile changes. If they sent you two different PLA + blends, you may not be able to use a tensile test to tell them apart, even if their shear strengths are different.

That said, you could definitely measure shear strength in the same way. Easier even, since no clamping would be needed, though it would necessitate custom(?) metal jaws in what could otherwise be a printed mechanism. If shear strength is all you'll ever care about, I'd just make a machine for that. Easy enough to modify one to the other either way.

>>2989670
All of the tests I have seen have been on 3d printed coupons. Never actually seen raw filament tested. I would like to test the filament, but I think the most efficient way is to just assemble the very first part. It either works or the whole roll is bad. Im at like less than a 1% failure rate on rolls. Very fucking annoying and a waste of money, but im not sure if im at the point where i want to test every roll. Manually it would add a minute or two across every roll. Probably looking at a hundred+ hours a year on testing alone. Doing a first part assembly just changes up my work process and since one part is assembled it doesnt take any additional time, just changes my process a bit.

Demon mode is to just say fuck it all, have parts in inventory so I can just throw away shit during assembly. Will probably run into some bad parts but will just have extras on hand anyways. The problem with this method is wasted printer time, but its definitely the laziest method thats somewhat efficient and easy to implement.

>>2989673
If each part only takes a few minutes of labour and is easy enough to test (i.e. it shatters when putting it under load, as opposed to fails 2 weeks from now), then that seems fine.

>>2989675
I think just making the part 300 microns bigger might be enough to hopefully reduce failure rate. I can tell if a part is going to fail the second I start assembling it usually. I basically friction fit a hole over a peg. When the plastic is good some slight abrasion will wear it down. When its bad it just shears apart when friction is added. Pretty brainless design but its worked so far when the plastic is not dogshit. I think its time to optimize though just for sanity. Will probably go through all my SD cards and just clean house. Change naming conventions and everything. Have scaled up to 13 printers and it has been manageable with a full time job, but I have almost zero processes in place. This shit gets pretty chaotic and im a lazy fucker.

>>2989679
>13 printers
how much money are you really making? how many packages do you ship a week?

also idk how roll testing is gonna help, I've had rolls that snap off every time you leave them for more than a day so I got in the habit of backing out and chopping off everything that had been through the extruder. then I've had rolls that just would not adhere to the plate and otherwise printed perfectly. still others that looked really good apart from a string of failures late in the roll. when you switch the plastic and everything works perfect then it's a bad roll but I doubt you can tell that on the roll.

>>2989679
Engineer here, with some experience with polymers and their failure mode. I can give you my two cents if I can see the print and how it fails during assembly.

>>2989670
>tensile strength is part of shear strength
Inaccurate statement. The two are connected, under a number of assumptions, and you can evaluate both by a single tensile test, although you need precision instruments for that. Moreover a tensile test should be sufficient to evaluate the performance of a material, because in (ductile) materials failure will occurr at a pure shear stress equivalent to the pure tensile failure stress divided by the square root of 3.

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>>2989542
>the first thing that I would do is clean this shit up with some IPA and some q-tips. If you are lucke you only got a bad connection. Do you have any way to measure that NTC with a multimeter?
I don't think a multimeter is required to diagnose it.
Looks like I broke the connection getting plastic off the hotend. I could maybe fix it but solder might not hold at these temps, a careful twist and wrap might but seems fragile.
A replacement hotend, minus housing, is only about €15 with some shopping around, so I just ordered one.

>many stores sell the same replacement at up to €50
Fuck these scammers hoping shoppers don't know the price of things

>>2989685
I think im projected at like $70k in revenue this year if do nothing. Lots of stuff I have been neglecting like adding products to different platforms and paying for ads. Hoping to add some new products this year also. So $70k revenue and the margins on my best seller is about 50-60% and higher on some of my other pretty good sellers. Haven't run the exact numbers but I think im anywhere between $40-50k profit. If the creality M1 is able to make usable filament then my margins will increase across the board quite a bit. Probably ship about 10-15 packages per day so around 70-90 packages per week.

Yeah the roll testing just seems like a bunch of extra work when you can find out pretty quick into a print if it will work or not. The roll failures are not very common also, so you just have to eat it when it happens.

>>2989693
Its a torsion failure. A round hole fits over a peg like a door hinge. Occasionally the tolerance will be slightly off and the two plastics touch each other a little too close. Wiggling the part onto the peg causes the plastic to just heat up from friction and the torsion just causes it to rip it apart. I think its mostly pla+ blends. Not sure if I have had any issues other than pla+. Basically the plastic in some batches is very "gummy" if thats the right word.

Any other anons with a creality CFS-C? Is this piece of shit really truly a complete piece of shit or did I get a bad unit?

Is purging into infill worth it for extreme colour differences like black to white? How many wall layers minimum would I need to make sure the infill doesn't show?

>>2989736
depends a lot on the white. I have a bit of issue with colors coming through, the slicing is already stupid so I avoid anything that could cause extra problems. I bought clear PETG for supports because of bleed.

>anons worrying if their colors are off
>me worrying if my PLA X-TOUGH prints can take being run over by a truck
we are not the same

>>2989786
you've got my attention, what are you making that needs to handle being run over? Or are you merely testing the material?

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>>2989786
>worrying if my PLA X-TOUGH prints can take being run over by a truck
Can you make a halo system for cyclists?

>>2989786
but are you getting paid anon?

What are some hinge designs that are easy to 3D print? I was thinking about something like a circle with holes in it and using a pin on the hinge to set the angle but I don't want to reinvent the wheel for something that probably already exists.
Is there some sort of wiki/parts library for common mechanical designs?

>>2989791
Merely testing. I want my shit as tough as possible.

>>2989786
>Pla
lmao.

>>2989807
>cheap
>easy
>serves 90% of purposes
What's not to like?

>>2989796
I have a real job.

>>2989652
We had a massive one at my old workplace and the paper is just going to clog up the moment you try to sand anything on it and melt the piece with friction even on lowest speeds.
Easier to do it manually or print it perfectly than fuck with that imo.

>>2989810
It's named after The People's Liberation Army.

>>2989829
The reds have infiltrated my workshop!

>>2989830
and they discovered that most of it is already chinese.
>哦,我5歲嘅表哥整咗呢啲!

>>2989834
>вceм бинг чиллинг пaцaны
Or whatever it says

>>2989834
>and they discovered that most of it is already chinese.
They'd enter my workshop, look around and wonder whether they invaded the right country.

Relatively new to PA printing and need some advice. I was thinking of printing furniture kit for the RDB to make it look like a Halo BR using this kit https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6869597

But I have yet to actually work with PA before and a friend is warning me PACF will result in a number of microfibers in me when handling the finished part. Surely wet sanding followed by some primer and black spray paint would make that safe though for contact, right? I could also print in just PA but my understanding is for a part like this PACF would be best.

>>2989815
A wet sanding belt solves the melting problem, would the belt still clog with that?

>>2989873
If it’s sanded and painted then there won’t be any fibres to touch. Even freshly printed, the fibres in the skin issue seems to be somewhat overblown. Just don’t inhale the fibres while sanding I guess, mask or wet sanding is the way to go.

>for a part like this PACF would be best
That one is actually more contentious. PA-CF is definitely a compromise in properties, it isn’t very creep resistant which can be an issue when you clamp it down with fasteners or otherwise put it under significant preload. It isn’t as impact resistant or as strong between layers as non fibre reinforced plastics. That said, you probably want a fibre reinforced plastic, because any fibreless high temperature filament is going to be difficult to print without warping.