/btg/ BOOT GENERAL - CHONK EDITIONWhat do I need to care for my boots?>Old cotton t shirt (one for cleaning, another for applying conditioners)>Horsehair brush ($10-15)>Wooden shoe trees ($10-15)>Light conditioner like Lexol/Bck4/renovateur>Heavy conditioner (if you live in terrible snow/rain areas) Sno seal/Obernauf LP>Don't forget that boots need time to dry properly, rotate them and rest themHow do I deal with x stain?>mud: allow it to dry then brush off>salt: water and cloth as soon as possible>saturated wet: allow the boot to dry for a full day, stuff with newspaper>scuffs and scratches: buff vigorously with horsehair brush>Should I buy turdsdays/soloshits/doc shitans?No they are filled with synthetic materials aimed at instant comfort but will not hold up to actual use.>b-b-but muh ecelebs on youtube said they're goodno. you will waste your time and money and still have uncomfortable footwear at the end of the day. spend the extra $100 and get something real.Manufacturer Red Flags>Luxury>Bespoke>Sustainable>Vegan>Unknown leather source>Made in Chyna/Mexico/IndonesiaBoot Red Flags>Dainite (Get vibram v-bar instead)>C*rk/C*lastic>Zippers>Non gusseted tongues>Excessive/unnecessary seams>Combination/mixed material heelsBoot Brands NO>Turdsdays>Doc Shitters/Soloshitters>any Whatsapp makers in the far eastPREVIOUS>>18177993
oakstreet grey import their loafers
Would black or dark brown leather chelseas be more versatile? I already have suede medium brown ones
>>18188864Post pics when you get them
>>18189041Source?
>>18189055Brown is more versatile than black.
Im looking for a pair of like Oxford / Derby type shoes in a less formal medium brown color (like left in picrel) that could go well with chinos or maybe some jeans of the right color. I'm willing to spend up to like 450 bucks for a good pair of shoes that will last a long time.Also its gotta be something in my area that I can go try on.I have seen some shoes that I know are good quality for around 450, but for example picrel is 250 bucks, buffalo skin, doesn't tell me much, and they dont say if its top grain, full grain, or genuine leather etc. Looks OK in pics, but I dont know if they could last me 15 years or not, they dont specify if its like goodyear welted which means its probably not. On the 450 dollar shoes i found it does specify goodyear welted but even those shoes didnt say if it was top grain or full grain.So whats the difference between buffalo skin and for example calf skin? What animal skins are good?
New Jim Green 719 boot looks nicehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3XlwdzsMv8&t=527s
>>18189315You don't want full grain on a dress shoe unless you want to see scarring and diaper rashes. All leather is genuine leather unless it's not actually leather.For dress shoes you want either box calf or museum calf. These are types of tannages that have a very tight grain so you get beautiful small cracks at the bend point instead of loose grain. They also feature an aniline (shiny) finish and a corrected grain so it's nice and uniform. I'd honestly suggest getting a grant stone oxford in your correct brannock. They use tannery annonay box calf and leather heel counters. Annonay is probably frances most famous tannery, it specializes in calf and it's owned by hermes.
>>18189387didnt hermes actually buy the tannery? boxcalf is stiff, request a sample patch if you cant try on the footwear in person. picrel is carmina boxcalf
and some cf stead calfskin
>>18189387>>18189434
>>18189387When I say genuine leather I meant in the order category of leather quality that goes something like picrel, although sometimes I see different names for everything below top and full.The shoes I buy wont be used as a dress shoe with a suit as I said, but I guess they're technically still called a dress shoe.And as I said I gotta go with something in a shop I can visit and try the shoes.I think Ill go for the calf ones then.I think Ill be able to pick between decent shoes that are similar looking & priced from either Loake or Lotusse. If you are familiar with those brands is one preferable to the other? Both calf, I guess the soles might be different on the shoes so I should go with what I want there? I wanted some rubber for durability so I was thinking rubber or combination sole.
>>18189508forgot picrel
Best chinese bootmakers?
>>18189709Grant Stone and its not even close
>>18189709Iron Boots for top of the line and expensive. >>18189710 if you want something equivalent to good western makers but cheaper.
>>18189709Iron Boots.
I don't know why I'm spending money wearing dress shoes and loafers to work when everybody just wears white sole sneakers or white sole loafers insteadI could just grab a few more $150 sneakers from Skolyx in various suede colours and call it a day, maybe a couple comfort loafers from TLB and that's it, no need for dress shoes besides a single pair of oxfords for that special occasion.
>>18189873If you're dressing for others you shouldn't even be here.
>>18189709depends what ur looking for? There's a lot of really good dressier makers in China. But i can vouch for Iron Boots if you want a Service Boot/something casual, good communication and very fast. Not cheap, but that's because they are actually good.
>>18189709>>18189888https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-high-end-chinese-shoe-thread.665419/here is a full thread to give you some ideas.
>>18189512There is no leather quality ranking. If it's made of leather wouldn't that be genuine leather?Some tanneries make great suedes, some make shit suedes. Some make good full grain, some make bad full grains. Full grain usually means no sanding the grain which is actually garbage for dress shoes or anything that needs uniformity. If you want waterproof you'd buy a waterproof tannage.Just know your tannages.If I'm buying a horween chromexcel shoe I know it's made with a horween chromexcel tannage. If I'm buying a cf stead kudu derby, I know it's cf stead kudu tannage. If I'm buying a grant stone I know it's an annonay box calf. Call loake or whoever you buy from and figure out the tannage they use for the upper.Also for an oxford I'd always suggest a leather sole. If you want a long wing or derby you can pull off a toppy or maybe dainite soles.Whatever shoe you end up buying figure out the upper tannage, if it has a real leather heel counter, and if it's good year welted. Also cork or felt filler, no foam. Those are vital to me.
Where can I buy a decent leather wallet that won't cost hundreds but also won't fall apart after a year?
>>18189954etsydo one of those leatherworking workshops and make your own
Is there a toecap or something that I can shove inside a boot to make it retain shape while wearing it?
>>18189709Quan but they have a weird bespoke look. Iron boots is good and so is grant stone.
>>18189981unstructured meme claims another
>>18189954I like popov and Ashland. Saddle stitched with good leather. But I heard there's a lot of good sellers on etsy.
>>18189907>If it's made of leather wouldn't that be genuine leather?This is the thought process that people buying boots on amazon follow. Anyone who knows about leather knows to steer novices away from "Genuine Leather" branded products.
>>18189954I bought mine from Satchel and Page.
>>18189995Why is it a meme or bad? I’ve been looking at Clinch boots and unstructured Bointy Hunters and they look cool
>>18190121you're talking to the c*lastic shill
>>18190121they get ugly when the toe collapses and the leather sits on your toes, very uncomfortable. Anon >>18189981 fell for the meme and now wants to change to a structured toe (possible, but very expensive to do)
>>18190117 Yeah but I don't imagine anyone here is dumb enough to buy a shoe without knowing the tannery that makes the upper leather. It's like buying a pc without knowing the internal parts
>>18189907>>18190258I never bought a shoe for this kinda money before (that's why Im investing in a pair now soon) so I just jumped in learning as much as I could about the external of the shoe and forgot to think about whats inside, except for the goodyear welting I did mention seeing written as information on the shoes. Reading about shoes online and watching a few shoe videos not once did I hear about tanneries and the upper leather tanning, so I did not know to think about this.I have e-mailed Loake and asked them for details on the upper tannage, if the shoes have leather heel counter, and if the filler is cork, felt or foam.I will post again when I get a reply from them.
do you even want an oxford or do you want a ptb?
>>18190295PTB is more flexible
>>18190296yeah and i dont think he wants or needs an oxfordjust get a grant stone ptb and youll be fine
>>18190295>>18190298What I wanted was a medium less formal brown derby shoe, but somehow all the shoe stores in a reasonable area of me mostly have oxfords (in darker colors as suity dress shoes) and the derbies I did find were also black or very dark brown. So Im looking at mostly medium brown oxfords now as a result. I mean I don't know if the stores carry alot of shoes that don't show up on their websites or not, so before asking the stores I can only imagine that derby shoes aren't very popular around here.Ive looked up these grant stone shoes, the Plain Toe Dune Chromexcel, Cap Toe Oxford - British Tan, and maybe even "Dirty Buck" all look nice and all-- but Ill say for a third time I have to buy something I can physically try in a store before buying, my feet are kinda wide so Im not blind buying expensive shoes online, I have searched online stores I can visit and there isn't a single result for grant stone, which also dont seem to have rubber soles on the ones I mentioned (?)
>>18190326>and maybe even "Dirty Buck"dirty buck is a fucking tease. i want obe so bad>>18190326>my feet are kinda widegrant stone has youthey have e and eee and they'll talk to you on sizing reach out in email>i dont want toJUST DO ITjust fucking talk to them everything points you towards a grant stone ptbyou dont want or need an oxford
why does trenton and heath feel so absolutely soulless and corporate? is it because they're both former investment banker corpo douches trying to be "le hardworking salt of the earth cobblers"? all of their videos feel like a commercial and they are always in a hurry. what the fuck are they hurrying for if they're filming a video? "hurr durr we can't do hot cork because we're running out of time so sheet cork it is". running out of time? nigga, it's your video. it's because youtube videos have a golden length proven to maximize engagement and thus profit and videos longer than that don't generate as much revenue. they managed to take something like cobbling shoes and make it corporate as well compare them to wyatt and dad cobblers who absolutely ooze soul. family of cobblers who have been doing it all their lives because they're passionate and love it. amazing production value for such a small channel and of course the OGs, steve from bedos and dan the cobbler. so comfy because it's so spartan and they're just there to make videos for fun. trenton and heath somehow managed to make a channel about shoe cobbling as soulless as rose anvil or stridewise became
>>18190364It’s the eyes. You cant fake authenticity.
>>18190122Literally 90% of the people in this thread wears shoes with celastic toe puff.How about being an adult for once and learn to size properly dumbass.
>>18190258Nobody knows the tannery of Trickers. Northampton brands do not outright state their tanneries.Before 2013 ish, nobody knows or cares that white’s uses Seidel.This is just leddit culture leaking.
>>18190371caring about tanneries is peak reddit bugposting. nobody cared about what fucking tannery made something as long as the leather was nicenow people are buying shoes based off the tannery the leather is from and that's going too far
>>18190431Now I can see how bad the upper stitching is.The welt also looks shit, scratched up.
I stepped into a puddle and my feet got soaked. The squeak that developed in my vibergs seems to have gone away.
>>18190502If your boots squeak try drying the inside of your boots with power or a dryer and then use a generous amount of leather conditioner on the inside. Leave it to settle and wipe with a clean cloth on the inside
>>18190506Ok I just ordered some Venetian shoe cream. They’re about ready for a conditioning anyway.
>>18190502>I stepped into a puddle and my feet got soaked.>he fell for the stitchdown meme
>>18190554Less of a puddle and more of 4-5 inch deep pools of water on both sides of my truck. I had no choice but to wade through the waters. Bergs are only 5 inch tall and the gusset is lower.
>>18190554Is goodyear welt stitching somehow waterproof?
>>18189907Ok the reply is in, and teh answer was.tannage = "All shoes are made from chrome tanned calf leather from various tanneries". I assume you won't like the "various tanneries" part.Heel = "heel stiffener is made from celastic that shapes well around the heel as soon as you start wearing them"You are against this celastic stuff?Filling = cork.So at least that one is OK.Ill keep looking around for now, found a website here that actually has some derby shoes. 50% sale on a pair of Church's but not my size kek. I will keep in mind the grant stone thing but will use it as a plan B or C
>>18190502kkeep us posted
I want to buy the solovair gibbon or doc 1461 mono, are there any better options or do i just play roulette with solovair QC?I know they're not great but i haven't found any alternative. Even the redwing postman is too far off for my taste. And yes i'm buying a 10 year old /fa/ meme, fuck you i like it.
DOES anyone know any cheaper alternative to alden's 986? or at least how this specific color is called because I can't find anything alike
>>18190716Looks like burgundy.
>>18190716Grant Stone makes their Traveler loafer in a lot of different leathers.Try them maybe
>>18190756yes but like exceptionally dark burgundy>>18190827didnt find what I was looking for but thanks nonetheless
>>18190620Celastic heel counters suck. You want real leather, especially in the 400$ price range.I'd suggest keep looking around.Church's used to make awesome shoes, though I feel like they're not nearly as relevant as they used to be. Maybe try allen edmonds too if there's one near you?Grant stone has great value and a good return policy. Just don't crease the vamp
>>18190716the color is called "color 8" and is really only specific to horween's shell cordovan, it is hard to describe because it changes depending on how light hits it and is a mix of burgundy, dark brown and slight purplethere is a color 8 chromexel but it's not even close to the same shadei would just get the alden, becuse it's really the best college loafer pattern in production right now and aldens LHS loafers are becoming rarer and harder to getthe 986 is a classic for a reasonif you want alternatives carlos santos emerson, carmina pina, crockett and jones harvard
>>18190716that particular model is shell cordoan in colour #8 there is no cheaper alternative, there are pale imitations but the deep burgundy with the sheen is unique to shell
>>18190871Good luck getting leather heel counter from legacy brands without spending $700 at least
EU bros, give me recommendations for local brands or at least brands that are easily found here.
>>18191170First of all, fuck the EU. Second, where are you in Europe? We can recommend you local manufacturers.
>>18190955>>18190967thanks brothers
>>18191170Too many to mention without knowing what you're looking for.
>>18190716>cheaper Doesn't exist. But even better is Crockett and Jones Harvard loafers
plain toe floyd last please
if all my footbeds are prefect but the facings are close enough that i need a kiltie for the right fit how do i adjust sizing? this is across multiple brandsdown length up width? up length down width?cut my feet off? die?
