Hello, I am surprised there isn't a general for 3D printing but I am humbly asking for advice on how to start as a beginner to 3D printing. I mainly want to print 3D miniatures for painting and would like recommendations on what printer to buy and where/how to get the files used to print miniatures (yes its 40k)
>>102434830>would like recommendations on what printer to buy
there's one at >>>/diy/3dpg
>>102434830I never owned a FDM printer because they sounded like a PITA and I could just use one at the local hackerspace or order prints online. Thinking about getting a resin printer though. They're like $250 now.
>>102434830For good quality miniatures and figures, get a resin one.
>>102434830you prob want a resin printer. the ender in your photo is a hunk of junk in this day and age. you can get them to print well but over time entropy just fucks them up even if you don't touch them. but you pay the price of a real fdm printer that you don't have to fuck with every single time you print
>>102435065>>102435103I see, something like pic related popped up for a little under $200. I also assume whatever material it uses to print isn't too expensive either
>>102435042Own both, and it is the other way around. Resin is fucking literal poison, and safely resin printing is a PITA.FDM on the otherhand is quite fun.>>102435135Factor in price of saftey equipment and, ventilation equipment. Also small is an even bigger PITA than bigger. You'll regret going smaller than a 10" class screen.Cheap resin is often so brittle it cracks while curing or shatters if dropped, and is often more prone to print failures. Only "cheap" resin I buy anymore is 3DRS HD Standard, and it is only cheap because In buy in bulk. Cheap chinese made resin also often is made of more dangerous components.
>>102434830/tg/ always has a 3d printing thread going
I'm >>102435202 and I'm feeling helpful.>don't use CubesOfCalibration for dialing in settings; use 3DRS Starship or Amaralabs Town>"bio" resin is a scam>water washable resins are worse in every possible way, and usually cost more. Avoid them. Also don't wash them in your sink>Don't buy a wash station. Just use gloved hands and a 5g bucket with IPA in it, then let the washed off uncured resin cure in the sun and fall out of suspension. Your IPA will last a long time like this.>Do buy or build a curing station. Curing in the sun takes forever.>You cannot overcure resin. IF curing cracks, warps, etc your minis, the congrats you bought shit resin>under cured prints are dangerous to you heath>learn proper orientation and supporting techniques, or you're going to waste a lot of resin on too many supports or repeated failures>don't use paper to level the bed. Just level in the vat>stir or shake resin every print, as stuff does fall out of suspension>reddit is full of terrible resin printing advice>ACF is actually pretty good, but has a bad rap because Fauxhammer is a fucking moron with a popular YT channel
>>102435202>saftey equipment and, ventilation equipment.so i can't just stick a resin 3D printer like that in my bedroom and use it every week or so casually with a simple AC on?
>>102434830Because 90% of /g/ are underages living in New Deli... They're more concerned about validating their self wroth through phone wars than actual technology.
>>102435410Eventually you will end up with a severe resin allergy from the repeated exposure to the vapors. It might take years, but it will invariably happen. Oddly enough, it isn't cancer causing though.I wear a 3M respirator with organic vapor filters, and do my best to vent everything outside.Also, eye-pro is super important. This stuff can blind you.Also, also, use disposable nitrile gloves, not latex, and not non-disposable gloves. Most resins will eat right through latex, and will eventually eat through nitrile, but with disposable gloves you wont end up using hole filled gloves.
>>102435376All these steps and precautions really makes the 3D printer look more complicated than just plugging it in, using a program, and making it print something
>>102435653It is, but it also isn't complicated. A monkey could learn how to do it safely.You need relatively basic PPE, quality resin (which isn't unobtanium expensive, you just either have to pay a little bit more or buy in bulk), and take a few days to sit and really learn how to do supports and hollowing in a slicer. Amaralabs actually has probably the best beginners guide out there then walks you through different settings, and how to do supports, and hollowing. They do try to steer you to their resins, which are fucking good resins, but are somewhat overpriced if you don't need specific certifications.Hayes gear does have a bambulabs tier easy plug and play printer, but it still requires you to wear ppe. Everything about it is expensive and has beyond Apple levels of vendor lock-in. But it is the closest to plug-n-play as you're going to get with resin printing.
>>102434879I liked your post anon, have a (you)
>>102435653Also for FDM:Bamboo Labs is pretty much plug and play. Failures will happen as you learn, but at its price point, the machine pretty much automates everything for you, especially if you use their RFID spools of filament. You aren't vendor locked if you want to go outside of that though, and despite being a chinese company supported partially by the CCP, they actually take safety seriously. They did a full recall on one of their printers when an issue concerning power was found, without any prompting from the community or government. Then they fixed the problem and got new printers out to people.On the other hand, they are significantly supported by the CCP. Their slicer and cloud printing service is literal spyware designed to help them steel western IP. Yeah, 99.9% is peoples shitty articulated dragon-beavers-with-dicks, but the rare and occasional good novel idea that gets uploaded, will get stolen by the Chinese. Seriously, people who contract 3D print for the US government or the DOD cannot have a bamboo labs printer on their network or they are risking being put into federal fuck you in the ass prison due to how laws work for that.Other brands aren't half bad if you are willing to learn some things. I have a Sovol SV05, that was outdated tech the second it went on the market, but it has been an absolute blast to play with.Most name brands are safe to use, and PLA and PETG are pretty safe to use. ABS and ASA do produce toxic fumes that could theoretically kill you if you sit there next to the printer huffing them, but just opening a window is pretty much enough ventilation for that. Other material you probably won't touch unless you get deep into FDM printing.
You are on the wrong board, diy always has a 3dpg.
What do I need to print my own dactyl manuform?
>>102434830No current FDM priter can match a resin based printer for print resolution. However, resin is more expensive then the cheapest filaments, PETG or PLA. Shopping around and the latter is about half or less, than resin. Plus there's the matter of messy resin everywhere. Some people can handle it, others cant.
>>102434830go check 3DPG on /diy/. This board is full of malding know-it-all, crabs in bucket weeb faggots anyways
>>102434830>>>/diy/3dpg
