I ride on crabon bontrager wheels, Aeolus Elite 35 TLR Disc. They are relative cheap and I liek them. Cannot go to higher sidewalls due to living next to the coast and fierce winds would make 50mm rims or something hard te handle.

>>1980775
I almost went for those when the trek shop guy shilled me on them but I found a rumor the hubs might be DT Swiss which skeeved me out so now I have Zipp 303S which I know some people complain about (hub wise) but they've been good to me so far, hubs are definitely a step up from the mavic garbage I was riding on before

>>1980778
Why be scared of dt swiss hubs? That are good hubs, the hubs seems fine to me.

>>1980837
The EXP issue. Yeah I know, "they fixed it", I'd still give it another 10 years. The whole point of DT swiss is it's boring and it "just werx", so when it turns exciting and unreliable, it's natural to wait a while

>>1980769
Shill.
I put my wheels together from a random hoop, as long as it has some life left in it, any hub and a number of spokes as long as they are roughly the same length. Use tape on it. Works fine. Stop obsessing about literally everything.

>>1980842
Wa la

tubeless = faggot

Currently enjoying wheel building. Anyone used recent mavic open pro rims(made in romania)? Heard on the internets they aren't what they used to be but I saw ebay has a decent deal.
Been running older mavic rims on most of my bikes and enjoy them.

I have a 1st gen mavic 28hole front hub and another campy rear 28 that I want to lace up.

>>1980930
I didn't know mavic even sold replacement parts anymore let alone having an actual line of rims they sell to builders. I thought that stuff ended years ago

>>1980931
I have never ridden on their "system" wheels like ksyriums/aksiums. Somehow all my rims are older like cxp 22's, ma-40's, ma-3, reflex and for mtb's 717's, 819, and others.

I think it's because my road stuff is pre 2000ish and the mtb stuff came from OEM's. I try to avoid the proprietary wheel systems.

My old hub is a mavic 500 hub from back when they built a groupset. One of my mom's road bikes still has mavic RD and some other old parts.

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>>1980936
Whoa that's crazy. I've literally never seen a mavic anything other than wheels and wheel components. What's the shifting like?

>>1980930
that's cool. I really want to learn. Been putting it off until i can find a used park truing stand cheaply and just learning truing with zip ties, but it seems like that grail purchase is never really going to happen, and custom wheels would really elevate my shit.

I think most people go for H Plus Son rims now for custom builds but for some reason or another i just don't like their design/vibe.
I'd also be looking into DT Swiss.
Also, Alex & Sunringle if they're a lot cheaper.

You may have tried this already but a visit to every LBS may turn up some NOS rims squirelled away which are very cheap and maybe even exotic, like, ambrosio or campy or something. I also think there isn't really any deterioration that happens over time for old rims so they'd be just as good to build with, maybe that's wrong though.

>>1980961
mavic shifting was always just a meme, they never broke through into the market properly.

They had an electronic groupset like 30 years ago though lol

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Time specs my wheels on their ADH complete bikes, my post-purchase rationalization is complete

>>1980961
Honestly the bike with the old mavic shifter has been sitting for.... 20 years. Mom hasn't been riding much since I was born 30 years ago and it's got tubulars which need some love.

Would be a good time to clean them up and take a look. I know it's DT shifter with 7 or 8 speeds. Could be index but probably friction.

>>1980967
>Been putting it off until i can find a used park truing stand cheaply and just learning truing with zip ties, but it seems like that grail purchase is never really going to happen, and custom wheels would really elevate my shit.
I just use an ancient truing stand with threaded adjusters for side to side truing and a place for vertical. I am not sure where the old dishing tool is, but I found the front could be done just in the fork by eyeing the center of the rim and the brake caliper bolt.
Good point on the LBS. I have a co-op near me I need to hit even just to see if anything neat catches my eye.
Might just try the mavic rims for now. Would go sun ringle but these old hubs are 28hole which is less common for cheaper rims it seems.
The wheel I just laced up has an at least 20 year old rim and 40 year old hub(shimano 600).

>>1980974
>it's always Time to take a Look at those Zippy wheels

I have a 16" folding bike. Is there any benefits of using carbon wheels instead of alloy?

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>paying 3 grand for wheels because muh warranty and it says "BONTRAGER" on the side
Just learn to lace a wheel yourself, dipshits. It's not that hard. $300 for two farsports rims+$150 for spokes+whatever you want to spend on hubs will get you something equivalent to a wheelset that would cost three times as much from a big brand.

>>1981220
>just buy a fuck ton of expensive single-use tools just to impress a bunch of MGTOW DIY cultists on the internet
I live in a <450 square foot apartment but I'm happy for you that you have the space for all that stuff. space is money too, as I've tried to get my friends and family to understand when they send me gifts I didn't ask for

>>1981222
>pod-dweller confused and frightened by the concept of "drawers"
oof

>>1981224
>mentally ill hoarder confused and frightened by the concept of "not wanting to live in a collyer mansion"
yep

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>>1981225
>owning useful things makes you a hoarder
Be real, your "450 square foot apartment" is actually a refrigerator box, isn't it?

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>>1981226
you're the guy who posted this thread and then got defensive when people called you a freak and claimed to have 20 stolen frames neatly stacked in individual boxes aren't you

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100% the same guy, same writing style and everything

>>1981230
Instantly going full-schizo isn't helping your "I'm not homeless" case.

>>1981231
you're not even trying to deny it because you're so invested in the mission of trying to convince people that it's totally normal to be surrounded by dumpster dive salvage parts and random tools that might come in handy at some point (you never know!)

>>1981232
meds

>>1981233
already took 'em, you?

>>1981234
*more* meds

>>1981235
I've got some extra but I don't think I've got the kind you need

is there a good book on wheelbuilding? older is fine. i don't like watching youtube videos for educational purposes.

>>1981238
It doesn't need a whole book m8. IMO videos are best for hands-on stuff but there's this I guess:

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/how-to-build-a-wheel

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>>1981238
Just read sheldon browns website, particularly the wheel build page.
I did my first front wheel doing that. I have the park tool gauge, but first use my ears to get them close via plucking.

Luckily the clement tire came out to 23mm wide when inflated. Was worried it was going to pull a continental and come out as 21 or something smaller. Kinda wished I got more on that ebay sale for 10usd a tire.
Will do the rear once my spokes and nipples come in.

>>1981238
There's like ONE.

https://vdocuments.mx/jobst-brandt-the-bicycle-wheel.html?page=2

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good buy? think that the conversion tables for chink meters are good?

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>>1981299
Why would you buy nice rims only to instantly gamble them on a chink spoke tension meter just to save a few bucks?

>>1981308
nta but I thought the general consensus here is you don't need anything to build a wheel other than some ali express rims, coat hangers, dumpster dived hubs, a swiss army knife, some glue, and a hammer?

>>1981228
I'm decently certain he's also the guy who made the thread about taking 'abandoned' bikes.

>>1981309
Farsports is an actual good brand that happens to sell on aliexpress. To my knowledge there aren't chinkspokes or chinkhubs or chinktensionmeters that have a genuinely good reputation relative to western brands like Farsports.

>>1981311
I swear this is the most mentallly-ill board on this entire website.

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>>1981308
the dt swiss one is a grand and the cheapo park tool one is dogshit

>>1981313
You haven't been to most of the boards then. Sometimes you at least find helpful people here. Most other boards it's just shit

>>1981314
The park tool one is what everyone uses, you don't need to be THAT precise.

>>1981314
eh the park tool one is fine. I use it just to get me in the ballpark

>>1981316
>>1981317
>100 yuro
>plastic bushing instead of a bearing
never buying park jew

>>1981313
>I swear this is the most mentallly-ill board on this entire website.
I think it's just a handful of loons that post a lot.

But back to the tool discussion. How many anons here actually build a wheel often enough for getting a truing stand and tension meter to be a worthwhile investment. I've never had to replace a wheel in my life.

>>1981319
I'm ocd about keeping shit true and evenly tensioned so I use it a lot.

>>1981319
>>1981320
Also a shop will probably charge you roughly the price of the tension meter to do a rim swap anyway so if you ever fuck up a rim and are in the mood to acquire new skills there's little financial reason not to. You can even skip the truing stand and use zipties, though the stand is better.

>>1981319
Building wheels is fun. If I cared about worthwhile investments I wouldn't be posting here.

>>1981320
I've needed to true a wheel exactly once and it was because my bike got run over by a car, wtf are you doing with your wheels that this is a recurring need?

>>1981321
>so if you ever fuck up a rim
This doesn't happen very often though. And in regard to keeping your wheel tension even: a well built wheel keeps even tension for a very long time. Unless you're putting it through extreme use (DH or something like that) the only other explanation is that you have chinesium parts or are doing incredibly poor work.

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>>1980769
i just get the custom-builts from Profile. the Sun-Ringle hoops are bredy gud and the Profile Elite hubs are second-to-none. i also have another set from them on 36 spoke 26 inch Sun MTX hoops for my dj bike. functionally indestructible!

>>1981327
>EHHH AS LONG AS IT'S NOT RUBBING IT'S TRUE ENOUGH
this is your mind on dick brakes

>>1981471
it's actually one of the best parts of disk brakes on mtb. Once you stripped a nipp and realise the factory wheels are swiss cheese there isn't much you can do but damage control.

>>1981327
>several years ago
>$600 wheelset from cuntrager
>just slap em on and assume they're good as-is because I paid fucking $600 after all
>after a while notice that every few rides the rear brake needed to be recentered juuuust a hair and always in the same direction
>direct mount so the caliper wasn't moving
>nothing damaged or bent
>couldn't figure out wtf was happening
>one day notice that *all* the nds spokes were loose and the wheel had been slowly detensioning
>"If it's loose that means it wasn't tight enough to begin with" t. calvin
>increase tension, re-true and dish, everything good to go from then out

>>1981472
sounds like a skill issue

>>1981475
Yeah, the OEM's choice of wheels were bad. When/if it gets bad enough I will end up getting sun ringle mtx 33 or 39's and relace the wheel.

Is there a point in buying higher priced innertubes? Should I continue to buy the cheapest I can find.

>>1981649
I go by goals. If I want to be fast on a road bike and go for marginal gains a tpu tube, tubular, or tubeless is the route.

If I am going for DJ/DH with a tube then a thick DH rated tube is the route.

If I am "just riding around" then cheapest is fine. I always seem to have spares laying around and patch kits so they seem to last a while. Thus getting a nice tube for higher performance can be worthwhile as well.

>>1981473
Thank you for anecdotally confirming that well built wheels just work.

>>1981471
I'm sorry about your fucked up autism brain anon. Please understand that not everything in life is about big bike pushing the disc brake agenda.

>>1981649
More expensive ones tend to hold air better. Not having to regularly top up is worth it imo.

>>1981220

Bought a set of bonteager wheels last year and they replaced them no questions asked because one of as warped. I’ll buy them any day of the week

>>1981324
>>1981327
It's usually some combination of lardass, garbage roads and cheap equipments, plus possible hucking questionable gaps.

A fat rider on an action packed trip to detroit can reasonably expect to true even strong wheels.

>>1981649
>>1981677
Sealant in my tubes means not topping up anymore.

>>1982599
Were these alloy or carbon? How did it warp? Warranties are great but warranties you never have to use are even better

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Is it ogre for western wheel manufacturers? Was the dubai thing the last straw?

>>1983898
Piss off chinkshill

>>1983903
Excuse you, it's Chang

tandems come with heavy duty wheels right? worth buying a cheap $40 tandem for some bombproof 26" wheels for my commuter?

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Are carbon clinchers worth it? I feel like in the next 10 years I could probably cop a 1400g pair on the cheap.

>>1983936
You again. It might help if you shared a picture of your gay little tandem fuck boy

>>1983945
legacy brakes means legacy rims
don't mix and match

>>1983946
i wasn't thinking of a specific one, i just see random ones pop up all the time locally for <$50 and they always seem to have those heavy duty 35 spoke rims on them

>>1983945
I wouldn't, but I don't race.
If you do inspect and check the brake wear for concavity.
Oh, and you need brake pads for carbon rims.

Interestingly enough I found out that a decade+ago shimano dura ace wheels were aluminum brake track with a carbon bond.

>saving the environment
>clearcuts forests
>paves over forests
>builds apartments
>for refugees

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>>1983956
Well if it has nice wheels depends on the bike, there's plenty of shitty tandems out there. But it's $40 my dude, is that really so much money you need advice?

$40 for even a normal, decent-tier wheelset is a good price. $40 for an entire tandem is a no brainer. Buy the thing, yoink the wheels, strip the components & sell, chuck the frame. Or turn it into a futon or something idk

You should share some of the tandems you see, nerds here cane easily tell you which would be the best.

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I forgot this thread existed, and have only posted in 'the other' wheel thread.

>>1981238
>is there a good book on wheelbuilding?
Someone else mentioned the Jobst Brandt book. It's short, and to the point. Good to read through once, and take away the distilled "this stuff matters, this stuff doesn't".
After that, the practice is the same as elsewhere, so when you forget stuff (because you don't build a set of wheels everyday), you can just reference Sheldon, etc. Both of those have good, clear text & diagrams.

The one that was best for me was the Roger Musson wheelbuilding book. Mostly because it introduced me to a different kind of truing stand, which I really get a long with. Pic is an excerpt, showing the style.
One of the things that really put me off when I was starting was "buying a truing stand". Turns out it's quite cheap to build a versatile one.

>>1981314
WheelFanatyk sells something that is damn near identical to what's in the Jobst book, $300 or so for one w/ a Mitutoyo dial indicator. Easy to hold, and use, and reason about. I'd say it's hard to do better than that.

>>1983956
>heavy duty 35 spoke rims
Press 'F' for real niggas who never learned to count.

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chink tension meter has arrive
40 € for the thing and 60 € for a mitutoyo dial
i get the absolute tension from the tone of the spoke and balance the spokes the tool

Tg/ tire general : just post your tires review brothers
Wg/ wheel general: weird meta drama

>>1983958
>$1000 for less weight and 0.1mph extra speed in exchange for shitty brakes and forever looking like a tryhard lycranigger
meh

>on the cheap
Prices never go down m8, unless you mean used. Get some chink wheels (from a real brand) before they go mainstream enough that they can jack their prices up to Zipp levels.
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/9velo-rv55l-road-rim-brake-wheelset/

what's with youtube being COMPLETELY overrun with shilling for chinese wheels

you can't even find a video on campy or shimano wheels anymore, let alone zipp or dt swiss, what the hell is going on

>>1986672
Biketubers would do anything for a few bucks

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what do we think of the new i9 solix hubs? is american made bike stuff back on the menu or is it too little too late?

>>1981319
i bought some used shitty spin doctor stand for like 20 bucks, it's not great but it's infinitely better than trying to true a wheel in a frame with zip ties. i have never built a wheel before and i'm glad i bought it.

>>1989339
>is american made bike stuff back on the menu or is it too little too late?
it never left

>>1989476
there is certainly a niche market of people with disposable income who performatively purchase heavy, steampunk-esque, legacy technology, nostalgia-fueled "made in USA" stuff as high status bling objects to flex on the "stupid walmart poors" and their "flimsy china crap", for instance the chris king fans and their expensive bike jewelry, but I mean, is there really a significant market of consumers who buy made in USA stuff because it's objectively good, and not as a social statement?

>>1989505
Well I'd say Chris King stuff is "objectively good". A lot of folks additionally like buying made in the US goods because they like to support US businesses.

>>1989510
good compared to low end stuff that comes on generic budget builds sure, but for the price they ask it's fair to ask what they offer, can you really justify it against the best of the best? it seems to me you're basically agreeing with me here and saying you're buying the stuff as a social statement. if the exact same thing were made in a developing country in asia and prices were the same, you wouldn't be so quick to defend it

>>1989513
I think there's a lot at play here, but I think I get where you're coming from. Specifically, I personally think King headsets are some of the best, if not THE best, out there. If a company is Asia had the history of innovation and in-house manufacturing that King does, I think I'd feel the same way, but that's obviously speculation. One of my bikes has a White Industries headset on it, and they're not really anything special. Just Enduro bearings that drop into cups that they machined. So I don't know - why did I choose to buy it instead of something cheaper? Is it still a "social statement" or a "flex" if nobody can really tell what the part is? Did the hip cycling media influence me? Do I want to support US companies? Maybe a little bit of all of those.

>>1989516
Since when has a headset actually made a difference in anything other than weight? Literally the most inconsequential part of a bike as long as it works.

>in house manufacturing
most major asian companies do that, just in taiwan

>>1980930
Had an open pro disc crack when I hit a speed bump at like 8 mph. Some of that is on me, but I replaced it with a DT something or other and haven't had any issues since.

>>1980769
Where can I get cheap 650b rims with rim brake tracks? Can't find anything but velo orange type shit.

>>1989568
yeah, I've never gotten that. I've never had a headset give me any trouble. I get that it CAN happen, but hub bearings spin thousands of rmps per ride, same with BBs. headsets turn a few degrees one way, then a few degrees the other way. they never once make even one full rpm. when you get your bike, check that it's not loose or binding. I've never had one go bad on me, ever.

if you need a new one, get a dia compe or whatever

>>1989568
it's cool that King makes their own bearings though, i don't know of any other company that does that. you're right, not much is asked of headsets, but i was just citing an example.

>>1989505
In the wheel industry the chinese have been catching up fast. I suspect industry 9, phil wood, and other brands still make products that are good enough, but for value far east will always win. For other components the americans or euros do make better products that just last longer.

>>1989505
Most Chris King headsets that i've seen over the past 15 years have been on high end custom road builds.

Often alongside whatever is/was the current dura ace.
You think you have a rational position but it's really just 'poor'.
Those bikes are nicer than anything you can even dream of.
Put yourself in the shoes of someone who just bought a $3000 frame and is about to spend another 6k on parts.

Personally I think Chris King is garish with its shouty logos and awful colours.
Thomson also is ugly.

>>1989623
I've had a fork race cartridge bearing go bad on me, I think rain got through the seal and I hung it up on the wall by the front wheel while it was still wet, which I imagine put some unusual stresses on the seals, I guess. probably user error

>>1989639
>Put yourself in the shoes of someone who just bought a $3000 frame and is about to spend another 6k on parts.
"I don't know much about this stuff but I want the best and if I spend money on it, it must mean I got the best, right?

I get it, it's reassuring to people who don't have time to analyze every product out there, nor would they, since their "builder" does that, but I think you've gone pretty far from the original question which was, what does CK offer, that makes it a credible competitor to the best of the best. remember this is a wheels thread, as others have mentioned headsets simply aren't that exciting, from a technology perspective, so this conversation should be presumed to be about hubs

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i want to build a truing stand on the cheap. can i just use dial indicators? they're always at the flea market in old machinist's toolboxes, available for like a buck each.

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>>1989655
yeah, it's helpful if they have a wheel on the tip, or at least some low friction material so you're not just dragging steel across the rim. i'd worked in a shop for 16 years and never used the Park dials until recently and they're pretty cool. Definitely a luxury, but it's cool to see it measured rather than just looking at the gap between the rim and the arm.

>>1989655
Sure. my unbranded truing stand(which is so old no thru axle wheels fit) just has threaded adjusters for side to side play, and a plate for in/out play.

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What do we think of gokiso? I already have a high stiffness shaft but my nuts aren't so spherical anymore

Is there a rule of thumb when buying rims? I'm looking for an inexpensive upgrade to my chink rims (622*17c) for my gravel bike.

>>1991688
If it's japanese it should be okay.
>>1991967
sun ringle stuff is old and works.
Dt swiss is nice and expensive
velocity is good
mavic stuff supposedly isn't as good as it used to be
chink rims are meta, specifically carbon ones shilled by youtubers.
Don't get a super wide rim when you plan on running narrow tires. Don't go low spoke count unless you go tall strong rim or high spoke tension.
Used wheels are the best deal if you are going rim brake. Fork disk you can probably find new rims on sale.

>>1991972
>chink rims are meta, specifically carbon ones shilled by youtubers.
carbon rims seem nice but too expensive for me at the moment.
Are the chink ones any good?

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>>1993026
Does anyone actually by non-chinese carbon rims for DIY? What would be the point of stand-alone rims on a high end, cost-no-object wheelset? All the high end stuff is part of a complete system now.

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>>1991688
I've been running a pair of Gokiso climber hubs for a couple of years. They do what is claimed. The hub body suspension occasionally makes the bike feel a little squidgy (bumps in road mid corner). They are a niche product and priced accordingly but they are a solid, honest product.

>>1993042
Stand alone rims laced to Gokiso hubs. Flies below radar.

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>>1993056
Mogs every wheel ever posted here. Are you panasonic flames anon? The skewer and QR lever look familiar and you both have demonstrated an interest in slightly weird, very Japanese, very "yes I do have a lot of money but that's not important right now" bike products.

Rhetorical question I'm 100% certain you are. I have also managed to geolocate pretty Japanese girls using only the reflections in their pupils but don't worry I'm not crazy. Ok I am crazy. But in a good way.

>>1993042
>Does anyone actually by non-chinese carbon rims for DIY?
I see. I'm all new to this. Are there non-carbon alternatives out there? chink or not and won't cost me an arm and a leg.

Avoid Chinese at all cost. Why? I like dogs, they're the white man's companion.

>>1993242


There are plenty of aluminium rim suppliers: Ambrosio, Araya, ... , Nisi, ...
Obvs. list limited to what I know but they are out there.

NOS rims are also out there, maybe better to find a local shop when buying NOS (or lightly used), float glass windows are useful for checking rim trueness and that's not a part of Amazon's plan. If you go slightly outlandish (NOS tubular rims for example) then you can pick up classic kit for twenty or thirty dollars a pair (more work on the tyre side but hey...). It's all out there man...

>>1993262
Make sure you avoid DT Swiss too. Stick with wheels from the whitest countries, like the United States and Taiwan

>>1993268
>White
>Estados Unidos

Hahaha

>>1993060
Standard 9000 skewers but yeah, the background does look suspiciously similar in both images. I'm lucky that local(ish) product is top stuff,

>>1993280
And -- forgot to sat thanks for the mogs bit.

I have Trek Aeolus elite 50s on my bike, my wheel cracked a few weeks ago because I hit a pothole and scratched the sides and it developed into a 3 inch crack. They replaced it for free. Trek is pretty based honestly, they have reasonable warranties on a lot of their parts which is nice.

>>1993355
Trek support makes it really hard not to like their shit. It's such a basic bitch brand and I'm too much of a hipster for that, but knowing I don't have to worry about the stuff I buy from them is awfully compelling.

>>1993366
A lot of brands have crash replacement

>>1993371
Yeah and Trek's isn't actually the best in the business, but it's better than some, and it's nice to be able to just walk to the Trek shop and get it taken care of right there.

Unlike say Mavic where you hunt for a Mavic AD and they call Mavic Americas and Mavic Americas calls Mavic in France and six weeks later Mavic in France gets back to Mavic Americas who gets back to your AD who tells you to fuck off because it's user error.

>>1980769
so the absolute mouthbreather that shipped my bike torqued down the front wheel bolts harder than I can remove. If I try to loosen with a wrench the whole assembly moves, and if I use two wrenches, one side will loosen but then I have no anchor point to undo the otherside, how to do I loosen the second bolt?

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>>1993421
I have no experience with BSOs, but perhaps you could adapt the cassette lockring technique which is to put the two levers in near-alignment, and then "squeeze" as shown. Both facing the same direction with one of them leaning against a step or something. This probably doesn't make any sense but I don't have an ipad so I can't draw it.

>>1993432
that did the trick, cheers

>>1993263
Thanks. That's really helpful.

Bikebros needs your advice. I wanted to buy a 29' Vittoria Terreno XCR for my BobCat 5, but at the moment they are too expensive for me.
What would be a good alternative to these tires, but not tubeless and cheaper?
Please help, im just new to this and afraid that's tires will be too soft for the road.

>>1993601
softness of the tire is based on pressure, tire casing, and volume.
Also, if you go 5-10 psi below max psi your tire will be hard unless you weigh 300lbs.

Oh, and for XC mtbing a michelin country racer looks good.
If you are talking mostly road and a little off road continental race king 29's would be good.
kenda small block 8 is a classic cheaper tire.

For more road a wtb byway could be good if you are looking for just side knobs.
Panaracer gravelking sk is similar.

Just look for something you like and try it out. Look for deals.

Bros, with 29mm inner rim, tires 700x35c will be smol? Im noob with this thing, and can't understand for now sadly. Please help

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>>1991688
This shit made me laugh

>>1993747
Yes. Back in the day (90's) we were running 28c tires with 13mm inner rim, and 2.0in(50mm) tires on 19mm inner rim.
Larger inner rim width gives more air volume to the air tire and is better for aero. So if you are racing a 32 or 35mm tire would be perfect for a 29mm inner rim.
The 29mm inner rim is probably a great 29er mtb size.

>>1993366
They replaced my helmet for free too after I had a crash once. My local shop isn't bad but they do try to upsell you a lot there with stuff you don't actually need.

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rip :( I got about 4 to 5 years of courier service with about 60k miles of sand, snow, salt, and frequently neglected cleaning. After a full day of work, I went fast going down a bridge when my rear brake suddenly started pulsing. I ignored it until I arrived at the grocery and decided to check out why my brakes were pulsing. I was about 4 miles from home and the call to limp it home. We made it without the tire exploding. I just ordered the same wheelset, H+Son Archetype laced to Origin8 hubs. At least I have new wheels and a few days off now (I don't feel like making the shitter backup wheel work, I'd rather give myself a mini vacation after like 3 weeks without a day off)

anyways thanks for reading my blog see you next time don't forget to hit the like and subscribe button down below to make sure you're part of my notification squad see you next time friends

>>1994305
Is that rim steel?

>>1994309
G609 Aluminum alloy

>>1994305
I wonder what percent of cyclists can say they've worn through an entire rim. can't be more than half a percent.

>>1994314
It would've been two rims if I didn't retire the set before this one early, it was about 10-15% life left maybe. I also cracked a frame from overuse, I kind of throw down serious mileage

>>1994314
But muh disc rotor

>>1994459
I've chewed through my share of disc rotors THOUGH

>>1994314
If you wear a rim clean through it was time to replace it a long time ago.

>>1989657
i ended up just putting a teflon tip on the dial

>>1994497
contact point*

will a 20f 24r wheelset be fine for someone who is 130lbs? is getting enough tension using the ping ping musical note method good enough for creating enough tension?
think i will build a set of h+son sl42 with sapim double butted race spokes using miche primato hubs. maybe i'll find a set of used hubs, i dunno yet. trying to keep costs down overall.

>>1994509
I'm running 20f but 32r only because I wanted to reuse my existing rear hub, and I'm 185ish.
pretty sure you'll be fine.
I built both wheels and tensioned them both to match my existing 32 wheels and the 20 detensioned on my first ride. if you run less spokes, they need a lot more tension, it turns out. live and learn. at least I didn't taco the damn thing

>>1994514
>if you run less spokes, they need a lot more tension
yeah that's basically what i understood

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can I use this on spoke nipples where the threads are? its a light oil. its not for a new wheel build but to true a wheel whos spokes became loose. I also have wax chain lube and boiled linseed oil if either of those are better.
do I need to use anything?

>>1994575
Yeah that's fine. I use an atf+acetone mix, but anything with penetrating properties is good.
>>1994509
It's fine. I ride an older set of paired spoke bontrager wheels at 230lbs. Super high tension and big 33c tires.

>>1994468
What kind of mileage do you get from discs? I'm considering disc over rim only if the cost per mile efficiency is less. And don't talk shit about being cheap or whatever, it's a matter of principle, my bicycle related expenses are considered business related expenses and my high-level autism causes me to strive for individual super efficiency for the sake of eco-radicalism

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Anyone else think rim brake offerings look so much better ther all black disc counterparts?
I’m planning my first wheel build for a disc brake setup but that shiny strip of bare alu has me weak.

>>1994590
Only works with black tyres though. I tried with some Gravel Kings with the brown sidewall and it was just too much.

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>>1994597
Yeah I agree. Not a big fan of colored sidewalls though.
I might be silly for limiting myself with that kind of form ocer function approach since I have disc brakes anyway idc.
It’s for a commuter bike anyway and I just want it to look cool.

Been eyeing the DT swiss R460 rims.
Any options around the same price? (€30)
I wanna be able to use 35-45mm wide tires

>>1994590
You can get non coated alu rims.

I personally think bare alu is underrated..I got a specialized that's like that cannondale and all I want to do is get everything that I possibly can to be shiney.

>>1994617
Yeah I like shine too, but all raw alu rims seem even more scarce

>>1994625
Well if you're really autistic, being that you're building your own rims you can sandblast them bare, polish, and clearcoat before building.

THAT would be based. Can apply your own decals too.

>>1994626
Oh my footprint is plenty deep into the spectrum alright.
Just being a little cautious before going head first into the deep end of things

>>1994585
About 8000 miles. I tend to run my pads down to the metal though, that's probably not good for lifespan. I'm also perfectly happy to ride the brakes down every hill.

>>1994629
ngl, I expected way more from discs since rotors from cars and motorcycles last forever. Then again, a lot of factors go into rotor life and a lot of things can reduce service life

building a bike trailer, the trailer itself is going to be around 30lbs probably.
i have some 32h 700c wheels i could readily use, or should i buy some cheapie 26er rims and cut/rethread the spokes and rebuild them? the thought process is wider tire and rim = gooder but i don't know if it actually matters that much unless i am carrying an ungodly amount of weight.

>>1994716
32h 700c should be fine Remember 32h 700c bikes handle most riders just fine from 150-250lbs+.
Would a 26 32h wheel with strong rims be stronger? Yeah, but you don't need that yet.

>>1994649
It's based on how you ride, terrain, weight, and frequency of use.
I weigh a lot and ride offroad, but try and avoid braking.
I suspect inner city courier duty would be the hardest on rotors. Also you can always get a bigger rotor+ softer pads for longer rotor life.

>>1980967
stick a scewer throught a table or clamp it to a table. There youre done. Flip the wheel for centering and to get a good look at both sides.

>>1994314
why is this board full of people who simply hardly ride at all ?
Are those peoples places of interest just so dense or do they compromise and go by other means on the longer routes ? Then again, looking at my personal profile for example, it's not really the long haul trips that add to the miles but the daily and weekly grinds.
Or is anon here getting is 40k + km / year and just light on the brakes ?

>>1994914
When you say "ride" do you mean like zwift? I've never had a rim last that long because in the real world the wheels are the first thing to take a hit when you crash, get doored, or get run over

>>1981222
No bike co-op to wrench at? That sucks.

>>1994945
They exist but it's extremely unappealing to me. Inconvenient location, mysterious hours, everything happens through walled garden social media systems that I'm not signing up for just to play with some broken tools with some dirty hipsters who think they're a higher life form because they're in a band. Rather just roll into the neighborhood shop which has an actual website and real hours and it's not "free" aka "we'll silently imply you should donate but we won't tell you what an appropriate amount would be because we're like totally above money duuuuuude but you should donate but we're not going to tell you how much is it $5? $50? $500? don't you support bikes? and women? women on bikes? trans people and women? did you know we're on stolen land? anyway if you are unable to make a contribution because you are an awful person, we'll just judge you with our eyes instead, we don't need your money you monster. Bikes not bombs tho. Right? Black power raised fist gesture? Even though I'm not black? So how much you gonna give huh? Pay according to your means. To each according to their needs? You look like you can afford it. But it's ok duuuuude. We don't need your money.

I don't have the energy for that shit, just give me a price list and fix the squeaking, here's my credit card.

>>1994960
I just ask them "how much?," and they add up $5 per part and any workbench time at $5/hr. both you and your coop people sound passive aggressive as shit. probably a cultural problem.

>>1994945
My city had a coop but the gutter trash kept breaking in and stealing everything.

>>1994960
Personal politics aside, just do $4/hr. It's worth it, even if they are preachy. Learn those skills, and if they're worth their salt they'll have project bikes you can build. Don't you want another bike anon?

>>1994971
Bike thieves are on par with addicts who refuse help. They'll rot themselves to death. Support your co-ops anons, all bikes are good bikes (even E-bikes).

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>>1994969
Yeah I'm a freak with no social skills but isn't that the point? If I had people skills I would be doing normie things like attending roof top parties or riding on boats with the kind of women that have the hair like this

>>1994973
I already have two

>>1994975
Unwarranted life advice: Normal people don't live sitcom lives. Some obsess of bikes, others anime, some guns. For some the expensive hobby is crochet, for others it's deep sea fishing. Rich assholes who couldn't make a dime without help from their parents are openly worth hating though. Find a group ride (bar or not), just talk to people, and don't let yourself be so angry at others doing their own little thing.

What's the difference in ride quality between a top quality alloy wheelset vs a midrange ($1500) carbon wheelset?

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>front tire deflates
>fuck it I'm going in raw
>ride into a corner at top speed with sealant spraying everwhere
>crash
>WHY WOULD HOOKLESS DO THIS!?!?!?!?
At least it wasn't Zipp this time

>>1995645
I am not a hookless lover but I agree. Whenever I feel something is jank, I pull over and inspect.
Shit, on a freaking race you have a car with like 4+wheels, just get a swap and go.

>>1995606
Better wheels are nicer. I have only used cheap, medium tier, and top tier aluminum mtb wheels. Many people say it's bogus, but I could feel how much lighter they spin up, and on a mtb you are accelerating/decelerating quite a bit.
On a road bike you get that surgy feeling when you stand on the pedals climbing which is nice.
Then there is hub sound, which I think having one you like is worth a fair amount.

>>1995650
I was meaning more in terms of the alloy vs the crabbon. Like if I were to build up a pair with GR531 or Belgium Gs and put some good spokes, assuming it's all tensioned properly, is it going to feel mushy compared to 45mm carbon rims?

>>1995658
>assuming it's all tensioned properly, is it going to feel mushy
spoke tension and spoke count have more to do with stiffness than material choice and even then, there's also rim width and height that influence stiffness more than material. Casuals get stupid about carbon because it's easier to sell fancy shiny stuff than being all autistic about numbers and design. The same with frame design, people immediately assume carbon means better and while that's generally true because carbon is a more difficult material to manufacture so companies spend more time making sure their carbon products are manufactured correctly, however, the truth is, the characteristics of a frameset is found mostly in its geometry.

>>1995660
>there's also rim width and height that influence stiffness
Yeah maybe my question was not well phrased. Let me be more specific.

I have currently some 45mm deep, 28mm wide carbon wheels. I have also had some 29mm deep, 23mm wide alloy wheels, which were ok, not amazing, but ok - pinned, which I understand is considered not so great (though if it's disc, not sure how much that even matters).

In a grungy hippie bike shop recently, I saw that the staff had put together a rather attractive gravel wheelset with some shiny, allegedly very high quality alloy rims and hubs. I can't remember which, but they were nice. Pretty wide, maybe even wider than my crabons. Not so deep, of course. I assume welded.

I'm not necessarily planning anything now, but my second bike, which I don't use often, has some not so great wheels. I am very happy with my carbon wheels. And I'm not dying to spend a fortune on a bike that gets a couple thousand miles a year at best. But what (if anything) am I missing with those shiny blingy high end legacy style wheels? Other than looking really nice. And the environmental aspect. And I guess if I crash them, which I tend to do inevitably, it's easier to tell if they're ok or not. Obviously it's not apples to apples but is there something actually good about it? Like I know alloy is a little more bendy, so is it more comfortable? I doubt I'm going to notice pinned vs welded on disc brakes, but hey maybe there's something in the manufacturing that changes "ride feel"

Or maybe it's like the bike frame materials debate where the shapes and use cases are so different that nobody can ever really come up with a straight answer because there's too many variables.

>>1995664
Alright, I hate saying this but the answer is "it depends." Bikes really do find themselves in that position that's hard to find a straight answer for many times, just the reality of such a highly optimized and efficient tool. With regards to aluminum, I wouldn't call an aluminum wheel or frameset "legacy" just yet. There's a continuing field of exotic alloys that is changing the game for aluminum but the same could be said for reinforced composites. The optimal material then becomes application specific. When it comes to ride feel, I think rim/hub design, wheel weight, and tire choice are bigger factors. Speaking of material though, where aluminum has an advantage over carbon is failure mode. (and rim brakes, but let's ignore that) Aluminum is a very ductile metal, that means a hard hit will just bend an aluminum wheel instead of causing the carbon to explode. That ductility also means some hard hits are repairable (although, not advisable unless desperate). Recently discovered exotic alloys have properties that make aluminum 30% stronger, there's even an emerging class of metal-ceramic alloys that are aiming to be even stronger. I wouldn't be surprised if some of those new age materials are finding their way into niche products like bicycle parts. Anyways, I'm going out of the scope of the topic now, for your bike, I think it depends on how good/shit the bike is and its current setup for you to really weigh if it's worth the upgrade, wheels are a huge part of a bike's performance, I'm sure you've felt how much by going from alloy to carbon, good feels incredible.

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Been wanting a dynamo/touring wheelset, but I'm not super certain on what rim I want to use. I want something and wide, so the Velocity Cliffhanger looks like it fits the bill, and velomine has this set for pretty cheap even though I'd be getting a new hub and spokes for the front, which would still be cheaper than building my own set from scratch completely.
Are there any other (maybe cheaper) options? I'd re-use my rims but someone reamed the fuck out of the valve hole and now they're too big for a schrader to presta adapter even. I also have some wide 28h rims, but I don't see any 28h dynamos for a comparable price to the Shimano dh-3n72. I didn't particularly want to spend $300 on a SON hub.

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https://www.chinaglobalmall.com/products/1612100003209

>nooooo every wheel has to be solid black with black spokes you're not allowed to have color or personality

>>1997014
I'm planning a rebuild and I want to alternate my spokes black and silver, silver hub, black rim. My plans are to convert my coaster brake only cruiser's ultra wide 32mm 584 rims to a front drum and fixed gear rear

>>1997014
I have silver everything on my bike but when I built the front wheel, the spokes I wanted only came in black so I sanded them down to silver. also the levers on the brifters, same deal. eventually they polished up, took forever. figured the spokes would go quickly but they took forever, too. no regrets, though

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So I hit a rock going downhill at about 35mph and I felt it bottom out. Hookless, so that's a bonus. I see sprayed sealant on my frame and a weird spatter mark of sealant on the sidewall, so it looks like it burped a little, but no impact damage on the rim. It would be visible, right guys? I can just keep riding?

>>1997377
every time i see a post like this i'm glad i stuck to innertubes, and i say as much, and several people call me an idiot.

>>1995606
Complicated. At that range you're racing and either going lightweight or aero. If aero, CF is a complete no brainer.

If you're a dirt eater disregard that, I don't suck dirt.

>>1998694
You just suck cager exhaust fumes.
Although that must have improved a bit lately with increased popularity in electric cars.

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Just got these. front is a shimano 600 tri color with well used wolber gtx rims and a..... forte tire 23c.
Rear is shimano dura ace 7700 rear hub with a velocity aerohead rim and conti ultra sports. Rim and hub are fresh and most of the reason I paid 35 usd for it.
Have a build I am doing and my blue rims wouldn't really look good, but these black ones will.

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>>1997377
Update: shop guys told me it's fine

>>1998693
You think this wouldn't have happened with an inner tube? It'd be the same except you would've gotten a flat

>>1999468
this wouldnt happen with an inner tube that was pumped up to an acceptable pressure. having the tire wall collapse is purely a result of low pressure

>>1999468
Hookless rims I can't even pressurize enough for my recommended mass until I get to 28 or 32c tires.
So yes, you are running low pressure most likely. or just on the edge, and when you hit a massive rock you get a nice PING!

>>1981220
>>1981316
>>1981317
>>1981318
>Parkfools
Lolwut?
Lmao

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>>2001018

>>1999470
what would you consider an acceptable pressure for 700x32? 120 PSI?

>>2001022
I think this is an interesting debate for tubeless. Because of the lower rolling resistance, lower pressures are usually recommended because it’s “more comfortable”, but what that really means is more compliant which affects handling and in my opinion isn’t a good quality in road tires. I run my 28s at 120psi so they’re responsive and run like rails, no experience with 32s because I think that’s part of the tubeless shill scheme and the “comparable rolling resistance” is only applicable with tubeless and with insanely high TPI which most consumer tires don’t have, most racers on 30s-32s are on prototypes with 240+ TPI that you can’t buy.

>>2001022
120psi for 32mm is insanely high
>>2001098
120psi for 28 is really high

Look at the sidewall of your tire, and start with the LOW value. I used to ride 700x19mm and at 165lbs id inflate to 120psi. Even a 23mm should only really go to 100psi unless you're lardass. 32mm at 120psi is sketchy territory

>>2001100
How is high PSI sketchy? It’s more resistant to sidewall failures and it has more stability in corners. The only reason I’d ride lower PSI is if I was fat and it hurt my ass which I’m not and it doesn’t.

>>2001100
BITD people used to run 160psi on 19's and 21.
I am more of a 110psi(rear) on 23's or 85-90 on 28.
>>2001102
I am 100kg and I need more psi for tire support. Too low and you scrub the front tire in corners or when standing. Of course tire casing matters too. A touring tire with thick casings like a marathon I can run 10-20psi less....

>>2001098
The idea is on normal roads that have bumps a medium pressure absorbs and rebounds the bump better then pinging off. OTOH high pressure gives a neat zippy feeling that I enjoy too.

>>2001098
I don't think it's really that interesting. Lower pressure is more comfortable, what else is there to say? But I don't race, I'm only a "racer" in the sense that I'm not suffering from fragile masculinity syndrome and I don't mind being seen in lycra.

>>2001100
I'm the guy who bottomed out my tire, I run about 55-60 front/rear. I was just asking the guy who said my tire pressure was "unacceptable". My contention is that there is no pressure in existence that is both reasonable to ride on, and impossible to bottom out on a sharp edge. Maybe on fat bike tires. But for road, no.

>>2001108
Based on my research, especially in regard to tubeless, the characteristics of tires at different pressures has a lot to do with TPI and the tire casing. Higher TPI tires that are more supple will definitely have a sweet spot but imo 55-60 is too low to ride safely on, their sidewalls aren’t rigid enough to handle the flex well. If you’re on 28s I’d be riding at least 80 unless you have a sub 120TPI tire or something with a very rigid/reinforced sidewall.

>>2001111
I'm not on 28s though, why would I ride 55 on 28s? Why would anyone?

TPI is just a way to sell tires, it doesn't mean as much as you think. Ride more, "research" less.

>>1985148
Just put your wheels on your frame, and glue two bits of paper/whv to the stays, legs, and be done with it, why all the overcomplication with these needless contraptions?

>>1981328
Thst chain on chain rub....

>>1986672
I think it's cuz they're actually useable for a fraction of the cost
Or it's brainwashing who knows

>>2001102
I can't comment to facts, maybe someone else can chime in. But my understanding is that there's a theoretical perfect pressure given your tire size and weight that gives optimal rolling resistance and grip. And that psi is certainly not the max pressure your tire can go.

My point about the sketchiness factor is more in relation to 32's or 28's at fucking 120psi, which I s simply too high for those tire sizes. Especially on 32, liable to pop off the rim on a good curb strike

>>2001112
>TPI is just a way to sell tires
Tell me you only ride road without telling me you only ride road. Why do you think it’s one of the only technical pieces of information they give you about the tire casing?
Also I work in the industry and put down ~5k miles a season so whatever chud, if you want your road bike to be comfortable then ride steel or buy a hybrid. If you want my honest recommendation to your stupid problem, ride <28c with butyl tubes at 100-120psi depending on your weight, or 80-100psi if you’re intent on riding tubeless for the largely irrelevant weight and rolling resistance reductions. The only reason pros use 30-32s and why it’s generally become an acceptable thing to do is so they can descend faster which is why they implemented disc brakes a few years ago too, unless you descend into corners at 30-45mph you’re larping. If you ride gravel with those tire widths you could potentially argue that 55-60 psi is appropriate because it gets better traction over bumpy substrate but most people would tell you to get a higher volume tire before dropping pressure on a skinny slick and likely damaging your rim, which you managed to do on the road so it’s an obvious deduction.

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>>2001157
It actually doesn't matter, TPI on a bike tire is like jewel count on a mechanical watch. And I'm not a pro, but thank you for repeatedly treating me as though I am, I suppose you think that's a compliment so yeah...

>>2001157
>Also I work in the industry and put down ~5k miles a season so whatever chud
Amateur numbers, I did like triple that for the last 9 years

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>>1997377
>>1999403
If it's carbon and you didn't do an ultrasound check you won't know if it's actually damaged until it suddenly snaps in half at a totally random moment. Hope it was the back wheel~

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-SFAB_zK-I

>>2001226
They said they could get it xrayed if I really wanted but their advice was not to bother since the tires were pretty fat and it was hookless and I'm not a hamplanet and there was no sign of any kind of damage from tapping or looking at the wheel. The guy said it's almost unheard of for there to be damage on a wheel where you wouldn't see at least something. Considering their customers are all rich freds who would sue, I can live with "almost".

>>2001251
I would just visibly inspect. I know plenty of non-hamplanet people who are hard on stuff.
I whacked my rim super hard doing DH with 30-35psi tubeless on a non tubeless tire. Could feel the impact up through my bones into my hips.

Ended up breaking a spoke but the rim was fine. Carbon rims are generally stronger so I would only worry with a visible crack.
my ancient(10+yr old) carbon bars and bikes have done fine

I got some 35mm internal rim width velocity wheels. Can I use 50mm tires? What would be the smallest size tire I can comfortably use for general city use and light gravel?

>>2001875
I am pretty sure you can use 50mm, there are charts on the internet for recommended tire size and ID.
Personally I have run wide tires on narrow rims, but not narrow tires on wide rims.
WTB(a tire and rim manufacturer) says 47mm are fine. and larger) They recommend 55+mm.
Those are some wide ass rims.

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partially related, but did my first tubeless setup on my gravel bike. Front tire seated in like two pumps with normal floor pump and I got it done no problemo. Rear tire would not seat with any of the tricks I had prepared. Considered getting one of those tubeless inflators but shitters cost like half of what a cheap compressor would, so bought a compressor instead. Insta seated the rear tire with compressor and got that done too. Wont have to worry about any issues later either when adding sealant or getting new tires either. TLDR just get a compressor.

>>2005900
>TLDR just get a compressor.
or you could build an inline tank with a 2L bottle, valve, and hose

>>2005900
I've been running the same rim/tire combo for years and it's a total crapshoot, some pairs just auto seat without a compressor, some take quite a bit of struggling and soapy water baths

>>1980842
Yes op is a shill, but ultimately rims
are a disposable bike part.

>>1981222
Anon, all you need is zip ties
$0.1
A spoke tension tool
$20
And a spoke wrench
$5

And you will also be able to repair your wheels whenever because the hippies at the bike shop work 10am-4pm Monday-thursday

>>1997377
Guy who rides downhill mountain bikes here.

Carbon rims are generally considered destroyed when there is a visible delamination/crack or you completely folded the thing in half and broke into several pieces still attached to their individual spokes on the landing. If it does look broken it probably isn't.
Road bike rims are definitely more fragile.

I also only run aluminum parts to avoid dealing with this issue, that and they are too expensive to buy new ones every other season, mostly the cost thing

>>2006440
Fuck I can't proofread

>If it doesn't look broken it probably isn't

Especially if it didn't hit hard enough to cut through your tire

>>2006436
I don't need to repair my wheels often enough that the mechanic's hours are a determining factor in what kinds of hoarder clutter I crowd my apartment with. I get it, that stuff doesn't take up much space, but it's like muh grams. If you apply that attitude to everything pretty soon you're up to your neck in crap you use once every 36 months at best.

>>2006440
What's a "season"?

>>2006436
>A spoke tension tool
shop mechanics don't use those for wheel trues...
More for wheel building, maybe you'd use it to do a really comprehensive job on a really fucked old wheel, but no customer with that job is wanting to pay for that.
If you're going to use a spoke wrench then you're going to re tension every spoke and start truing from scratch. That massively blows out the amount of time it takes.

I wonder if the tensionfags i see here have ever trued a wheel before.

It's really only the spoke wrench and zip ties that you need. And oil.

>>2006443
>clutter
that's not the reason lol. The reason is that if you're just looking after one or two decent bikes you're not going to get enough practice to do a good job. Wheel truing is a skill that takes practice.

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Thoughts on the Koozer CX1800? Planning to replace my stock wheels on my gravel bike. Mostly roads but I do go offroad often. I usually do long rides and maybe considering backpacking/touring.

>>2007846
>Koozer CX1800
>literal who wheels
get 32h since you do offroad and backpacking+touring.

>>2007846
>Koozer
Sounds like a character from a Stephen King novel, will it crawl out of the floor and rape you at night?

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Thoughts on the enve x classified wheels? They're not as expensive as you would think. I mean obviously they ain't cheap, but...

>>2008696
No idea besides that enve has been in the carbon game for nigh on a decade by now. Just uhh make sure you read the thing on the website saying it's just classified compatible... so you need to get the classified powershift kit.

I ain't a dentist so it's a little much for me.

>>2008698
You save money by getting a 1x crankset though. The real hidden cost of these things is the $250 proprietary cassettes.

Peak Torque just said Winspace is dangerous, the west is back boys!

EUR 1100 for 2nd hand current gen Mavic Cosmic SLR 45, Y/N?

>>2009615
I wouldn't go near a mavic wheel personally though maybe there's better service and parts availability in europe. To my americlap brain they scream headaches

>>2009617
They offer lifetime warranty in France and seller is providing me with proof of purchase, transferring the warranty to me

>>2009615

You can get them cheaper and new —> mantel.com

What do we think about Continental tires?
In my opinion, they are the best tires on the market and everyone should buy them...

>>2009690
>mantel.com
SL range, not SLR (which retails at 17-1800 EUR at best)

>>2009697
good brand that gets overmemed by internet echo chambers to the point of stupidity

>>2009712
I might be biased because I work for Continental but I think it's a good brand and not just a meme

>>2009697
The tires that are puncture resistant enough to daily drive give up more performance than comparable Schwalbe

The tires that don't give up performance perform excellently but aren't puncture resistant enough to daily drive

>>2009700

My bad. Make sure you get some sort of inspection period before buying those used wheels.

>>2009697
idk ive tried some theyre ok but i like how my shwalbes feel in the wet better
i have a pair of double fighters on one of my bikes and dont intend to change them till they wear out theyre fine
i noticed if you skid they flatspot more easily too
i like the tread pattern offerings though
like shwalbe they have lots of options for semi slick grabel crosscountry whatever tyres

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Bought a new hybrid bike and it came with Mitas Flash puncture-proof tires. Trying to look up on information on said tires seems impossible, as I can't find any kind of official documentation on what this tire actually is. It doesn't even say how many bars is the maximum amount of inflation on the side of the tire.

My previous bikes were delivered with non-puncture-proof tires, and therefore I just swapped them out for Shwalbe Marathon Plus Tour. I'm really happy with them, as on my last bike I had only a single flat tire after 11 000 km. Puncture proofing of the tire is important for me, as I commute to work by bike.

Does anyone here have experience with Mitas Flash-tires? Are they good enough or should I order new Shwalbe's just to be sure?

>>2009890
how do they feel though?
are they rubbery to the touch or plasticy?
thats my simple test for if a tyre is garbage or not
if at least feels like real rubber then its adequate

>>2009890
btw for tyre pressure it doesnt reeally matter about the specific tyre its more about the volume of the tyre in relation to the weight its carrying + the terrain you ride
theres calculators and stuff for this

>>2009894
They feel rubbery, so they got that going for them.

I'm more concerned about how puncture-resistant they are. I've gotten used to the protection level of Shwalbe's Maraton Plus, so my stantards are pretty high. I don't mind if I get a flat tire once per year, but if these go flat once per month I'm swapping these out.

>>2009896
puncture protections is likely where the catch is yeah
youd need to deflate the tyre and feel how thick the rubber is to judge that
maybe just carry a spare tube and see how long they last?
or sell them for some marathons maybe

>>2009899
That's a good idea, gotta hide a spare tube in my pannier and see how good the protection is. If they keep going flat then I'll know to order some marathons again.

>>2009895
Just seems weird that the manufacturer doesn't display the lower and upper limits on the side. On every other tire I've inflated these things have been marked on the side.
But gotta check out those calculators, didn't even think about that. Thanks!

>>2009906
Many tires are max pressure X on the sidewall, I presume they expect the rider to figure out a good pressure.

Generally cheap tires can be durable, long wearing, but they just don't ride nice/not fast. I suspect the mitas is one of those.

>>2009906
yeah its weird to not have that even on cheapo tyres

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Not sure where to put my blogpost besides here. Had to regrease these ole uniglide 7402 rear hub. Dustcaps are nice on these since they are almost solid plastic and reusable.
9 balls on each side, 14mm cones for both.
Had to true up the rear wheel too, getting pretty rowdy on the climbs and this 32 spoke rim is just not that stiff. 12-25 uniglide cassette. Not excited to remove it when I do have to replace it.

>>2011718
I think you used too much grease bro

I had to *LITERALLY* stand on and leg press into (probably 250+ lbs of force directly into) my freewheel remover tool to get it loose today. At lease the splines held up on this one. The last one I had to angle grinder off the hub

Freewheels: not even once

>>2013479
I have been lucky. I also use anti seize so I hope they come off next time.
>>2013473
idk maybe.

>>2013483
>anti seize
Damn I need to get some of that. Thanks for the recommend, anon. And if that doesn't work hopefully I can bend a thin spring or something to act as a barrier for the last half-mm of the screw

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I bought tire levers not but I think I fucked my shit, how bad is this?

>>2013650
Looks to be disk brake. It's fine. I fit was rim brake I would say file them down smooth and ride.

Oh, but do pay attention to the tire carcass in that area and bead, since it looks like you went at it.... Brutally.
There should be videos by RJ the bike guy, or park tool on how to remove tires with a lever.

>>2013655
Okay, thank you. I tried removing the tire with a bottle opener. Not a good idea

What would make for a stronger wheel, 32 spokes with equal spoke length and tension on both sides of the wheel, or 36 spokes with smaller drive side spokes?

>>2009697
>What do we think about Continental tires?
Good tires, hold up well. And they still make some of their models in Germany which I appreciate.

>>2009697
Decent tires but not on sale so I don't get them.
Ultra sports are pretty damn good for the money, would recommend.
Gatorskins are durable but feel plasticy on the front and are slower then normal tires.

Conti mtb tires..... I have only used older 26in models and those were fine. Nothing special here.
New ones with weird names are supposed to be good.
>>2013876
my 36 spoke wheels I almost never have to mess with.
my 32's I do have to mess with more frequently. 32's with an aero rim worked great today.

back II the top

>>1980930
Get the wheelbuilding book.

Nicest build was 36 holes, Hope2 Monopro, for a tandem

My bike needs 100 front/135 rear QR hubs. Can't go to 142 unfortunately. What's a good upgrade wheel set for all-mountain/very bumpy gravel? Would rather not get a new bike just because my current one has "old" sizing

>>2019163
I would prefer low engagement angle, durability for drops up to about 3 feet, and below 1500usd for the set

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ebay seller: the braking surface is slightly concave
when you get the thing:

>>2019163
>muh new sizing
yup, marketing got another one.

Anyways since you are talking mtb I presume due to the term "all mountain" which has been dead for 10+years. Go look for mavic crossmax, american classic, or even just xt+mavic rims or any shimano+mavic rims.

Low engagement wheels weren't super popular but you might find dt swiss hubs which you can swap as the modern dudes do, or i9 wheels in that size which are for sure low engagement. Also chris king/hope hubs should be low engagement. Low engagement were just starting to become the shiz back then so it will be harder to find.

Pricing? should be able to find any of them under 750usd. Big issue is going to find one that uses a 100/9mm qr front since that was getting phased out in the late 2000's for even xc bikes, before that it was 20mm axles on freeride bikes. Just look for non xc rims+hubs if you want durability.
>>2019792
I mean you can return it or just send it till she cracks and then re-rim it. I don't buy used stuff off the internet since shit like that can happen. I go fb,offerup, or craigslist so I can see it in person.

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>>2019796
>I go fb,offerup, or craigslist so I can see it in person.
shame that no-one is selling anything interesting in my country
i got some NOS mavic 36 hole f519 rims, guess i can make a few nice rear wheels from these

Is more spokes better? I'm looking for DT G540 wheels. They're available in 28 and 32 spoke variants.
By better I mean more durable. Also I'm very light, <70kg with bike included.

>>2019864
Get the 28, 32 spokes is for extremely obese people on shitty builds with shitty parts

>>2019864
More spokes is stronger and decreases the percentage of the load each spoke has to hold. However you have to factor in the rim strength, hub design/strength, and some other goodies.

For instance I prefer 36 spoke wheels since I have to tension them way less frequently then 32's. However if I ran say a tall aero rim that weighs 650+grams(road bike rim) then 28 could be fine, especially with a strong high flange hub.
Just like how my ancient bontrager racelites with 20/24 spoke or even less have done okay.

Modern wheels tend to be high tension low spoke+strong hub and rim so it's less of an issue. Factor in wheel size too since those have shorter spokes.

TL:DR
more spokes=less maintenance IF you are on the edge and the wheelbuild isn't strong enough. If it's strong enough for your use case less spokes =less weight and more aerodynamic=faster.

You weigh nothing so I wouldn't be worried about it. My mom+bike was sub 60kg BITD and could ride 19mm tires+the lightest rims known to man with low spoke counts and be 100% fine. Where as a heavier sprinter/big guy rider would want 23-25+mm tires and 36 spoke wheels at 100kg as a total weight package. That was with weaker rims, spokes, and hubs.

>>2019163
>>2019796
Apparently white industries makes a hub with 135 QR compatibility, so astral wheels it is! 48 poe is still going to be an improvement over the m3050 that came with the bike

>>2021428
Buying a high end QR hub instead of just upgrading your frame is a weird approach but good on you for supporting obscure parts

>>2021437
I like the frame overall, it just came with a weird "only-makes-sense-in-mass-production" axle size

I have a set of winter wheels with corrosion around the valve hole and some spoke holes, as well as a few spoke holes around the hub. At what point should I worry about this?

>>2021959
>what point should I worry
Never. All it means is that if you come to true your wheels (you should do this anyway), put a drop of oil on each nipple to avoid stripping them.
You might also grease or periodically loosen the ring on your inner tube to ensure it's not siezed if you ever have to fix a flat on the road and don't have pliers.

Obviously you might also keep them clean to mitigate the corrosion but wheels are wear items and winter wheels will get fucked up, what problem is it actually going to cause? Nothing

>>2019163
>what's a good high end upgrade for (legacy standard)
lurk used market

>>2021968
None of the mentioned corrosion is on the nipples or valve, it's on the rim and hub. The wheels don't really need truing, they're in shape and tensioned. Not for lack of riding either, I just re-greased the bearings and the cups are visually worn.
> what problem is it actually going to cause?
structural failure of the rim or hub flange?

So since both rim and hub are showing signs of wear, it doesn't really make sense to me to do replace the hub if the rim is showing signs of corrosion. I don't care about the rolling resistance, but I'd like to not be riding it when the aluminum finally gives out.

I just bought some rubber seals to replace some on my vintage raleigh branded(made in japan) hubs.
I hope they will fit, but at the very least this will be a good experiment to know. If they fit maybe the hub won't leak the grease out as fast... which would be nice.

I also ground removed the pits on the rear hub cones. 14 bucks in seals so it's not too bad if it doesn't work.

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I thought I was fairly price insensitive but I got sticker shock at the price of tires. Should I just stop being a bitch and order them?

>>1980769
It's winter season and I am tired of switching tyres every time for it.
My current wheel set weighs 3.25kg, front and back wheel, alloy and I have been thinking about getting a carbon set but it is a big jungle out there. What would be a decent pair of wheels with wide rims and a fine height and don't weigh too much?

>>2023443
>I need new carbon wheels because.... t-the tire change! Yeah! It will save me valuable time!
Lol. If you want to talk yourself into new wheels I guess that's a way to do it. For me I just waited until I had a fixable mechanical issue.

>>2023447
Yeah it saves me time but I do want a pair of carbon wheels and feel the weight weenie life. Got any recommendations?

>>2023449
I've posted my own choice and thoughts on it already. Nothing to add for now.

>>2019163
Most DT hubs can be converted to QR by changing the end caps

>>2023443
Well you can trust internet youtubers, talk to your local bike shop/group riders(fast), or just spend big(known manufacturers).
Or save money and trust the chinese.
Do remember that deeper=more weight, more aero, and maybe worse in cross winds.

Me? I ride bikes and parts older then me with rim brakes.
>>2023466
yup

>>1980886
Agreed. It's also retarded

>>2023419
Those are really nice tires. Splurge a bit and enjoy them.

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>>2023419
you should stop being a retard and lrn2shop

got some hydra enduro S's on sale. What am in for?

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My coaster hub broke, relaced the 584 rim to a 36h fixed gear hub
Fixed gear klunker yeeeeee